What line do you use with which technique (crank, jigs, topwater...) 2024
clemsondds reply :
I've seen so many various recommendations lately, so I thought I would just see what everyone here is using. It seemed like a year ago or so, alot of the major fishing guys I know, were switching to braid for everything with the fluoro leader if needed. But now, I am seeing several of those going back to fluoro as a main line for several different techniques. So which line and strength do you use for: squarebill, medium and deep cranking, frog, football jig, dropshot, spinnerbait, chatterbait, pitching/flipping, and finesse (ned rig, shaky head...)
jbsoonerfan reply :
Braid, braid, braid, braid, braid, braid, braid, braid, braid and braid. No leader
drew4779 reply :
My personal preference is mono for trebles, braid for most top waters, and fluro for most everything else. I've been experimenting with a braid to fluro leader for my drop shot rod but I haven't had enough time with it to decide if I like yet or not.
jimmyjoe reply :
Cranks and spinners: InvizX
Finesse: Stren Original Yellow (gotta see it, y'know)
All others: Big Game (green)
I see no reason to make things any more complicated than they have to be, but I haven't achieved the consistency that @jbsoonerfan has achieved. Maybe someday ...... jj
MN Fisher reply :
squarebill - Yo-Zuri Hybrid
medium cranking - Yo-Zuri Hybrid
deep cranking - Yo-Zuri Hybrid
frog - Braid
football jig - Yo-Zuri Hybrid or Braid
dropshot - Mono
spinnerbait - Braid
chatterbait - Braid
pitching/flipping - Braid
finesse - Mono
let's add
swim jig - Yo-Zuri Hybrid or Braid
topwater - Braid
clemsondds reply :
Has anyone seen any research or actual scientific studies to show when certain line is better? (Eg guy who said only braid...) Or is it just by experience that you have come up with these conclusions? I’m still new to dishing somewhat so please don’t take my questions as an offense. Thanks!
jbsoonerfan reply :
Nothing scientific here, I've just found that braid works for me in 99% of the situations I fish. I threw straight braid today and the guy fishing out of the same boat was using mono. Both throwing a sweet beaver in low blow color, I out fished him 6 to 1. Not saying line had anything to do with it, but I have never noticed much difference in catching when I did use mono or a leader.
clemsondds reply :
Interesting. Moss green color? Lb test?
rtwvumtneer6 reply :
This is ever evolving for me, especially when I started to get into more technique specific rods. This is what I am most confident with, or plan to have ready for next spring.
squarebill - 10/12# copoly
medium and deep cranking - 10/12# copoly
frog 50# braid
football jig 17# fluoro
dropshot 20# braid to 8# fluoro
spinnerbait 17# mono
chatterbait braid to mono leader (just started using braid on moving baits. This may change)
pitching/flipping 50# braid to 20# fluoro
finesse - 20# braid to 8# fluoro
Shimano_1 reply :
On 11/10/2019 at 12:20 PM, drew4779 said:My personal preference is mono for trebles, braid for most top waters, and fluro for most everything else. I've been experimenting with a braid to fluro leader for my drop shot rod but I haven't had enough time with it to decide if I like yet or not.
X2
LonnieP reply :
Everything except bottom contact and frogs- Copoly
bottom contact-fluorocarbon
frogs-braid
webertime reply :
Jerks, cranks and topwater = Super Natural or YZ hybrid.
Jigs(shallow) = braid, braid to fluoro or fluoro.
Jigs (deep) = fluro.
Moving Single hooks = fluoro.
Frogs, flipping = braid.
Spinning gear... braid or braid to fluoro UNLESS it's windy then it's straight fluoro.
QUAKEnSHAKE reply :
I use braid for everything.
OG Crankster reply :
On 11/10/2019 at 8:49 PM, QUAKEnSHAKE said:I use braid for everything.
Same here.
VolFan reply :
Braid for everything except ultralight (mon-4 lb Trilene XL) and big swimbaits (copoly-Yozuri Hybrid or CXX in 15 lb and up).
ike8120 reply :
I use braid for frogging and braid with FC leader for my NED rig. Everything thing else is copolymer. Going to try FC next spring.
MickD reply :
Here are the "why's" regarding my line choices:
Surface: Mono, easy casting, significant stretch which softens my often too fast and hard response to the strike, AND IT DOESN'T SINK. Fluoro sinks which screws up the action of many surface lures.
Finesses: Braid with Fluoro leaders Braid has little to no stretch so makes it much more sensitive than mono or Fluoro, easier to feel subtle strikes. Also when the 10-15 pound test braid is used it allows very long casts and good hook sets at long range. I like the fluoro leader to soften it just a bit and to allow a lot of lure changes without shortening my braid.
4 inch swimbaits on jigs, snapping of the bottom: Braid with leader on a ML power, MF action rod. The rod action is important to get a proper snap and fall and the ML power is right for proper loading of the 3/16 oz jigs. The braid gives better hook sets than mono or FC.
Cranks: Mostly mono for it's easy casting and significant stretch, keeps the fish on better with trebles than braid.
I don't like fluoro for a main line because it costs so much and is so fragile-a backlash with a baitcaster can easily break a $20 line in no time. It also doesn't cast as well as braid or mono, often with the line coming off th spool, both BC and spin. There are some recommended that are more manageable, but I don't see the advantage in paying big bucks for a fragile line that requires a lot more attention than braid or mono.
Hook2Jaw reply :
I'll also give you the why of...why I use what I use.
First, my preferred lines are Berkley Vanish for fluorocarbon because it's a decent line as long as I apply line conditioner. KVD Line n Lure really straightens that mess out enough to be easily managed. I use Kastking Superpower Braid because I don't notice much difference between it and 8 carrier braids. It's cheap and strong. That's also my though process when it comes to mono, Berkley Big Game handles that for me.
Crankbaits : Various fluorocarbons. I use 14# Berkley Vanish for Squarebills and Lipless, and 12# for Medium and Deep Divers. It's sensitive enough to feel incoming collisions with cover, and allows my baits to get deep. The better I become with sensing future deflections, the more I'm liable to drop down to 12 and 10.
Jerkbaits : I'm currently using 10# Berkley Vanish, but I'm contemplating using 30# braid to a length of fluorocarbon leader equal to or more than the dive depth to hopefully keep the buoyancy of braid from effecting the equation too much. The memory of fluoro actually moves your jerkbait forward and I want mine to fully pause when I pause. I think the visibility of braid will help with detecting those paused strikes.
Topwater : I use 15# Berkley Big Game for Topwater applications. Braid kept getting in my front hooks on my walkers and with the amount of drag I use on treble hooked baits, there's no need for the strength of braid. I also worry about it tearing out trebles.
Frogs : I use 50# braid for friggie froggies. Haven't found some Georgia slop yet that 50# Kasking doesn't haul them on through, though I haven't been frog fishing long with a dedicated setup.
Bottom Contact : I'm currently using straight 12-17# Fluorocarbon for Carolina and Texas Rigged Worms in addition to my jigs, but am seriously considering braid to leader to increase sensitivity in the future. My current rod for this application doesn't accommodate a leader very well due to the guides but I hope to upgrade in the future. I would prefer 30# braid to 12-17# Vanish.
Single Hook Moving Baits : For my paddletails, spinnerbaits, and chatterbaits, I use 14# Fluorocarbon.
Swimbaits : I use 40# Kastking Braid to 30# Berkley Big Game for these, which are currently two S-Wavers. I like braid to leader better than straight mono or copoly, as the cast distance gain is too great to worry with the low stretch eventual break of braid when I undoubtedly badly backlash.
Finesse : Since nothing is stronger than the weakest link, I really go down in braid size to sink quicker and cast farther with my braid to leader selection. I use 12# braid to 10-12# fluorocarbon for weightless worming. This line selection handles my lighter jerkbaits and crankbaits as well. I also walk a fluke on braid to fluoro, as I'm twitching and popping too quickly for the sink of fluoro to effect it. My other finesse setup is 12# braid to 6-8# fluorocarbon. I use this setup for my drop shotting and Ned rigging.
I think that about covers what you asked and then some. I'm at the sister-in-law's house and haven't been able to fish all weekend.
FryDog62 reply :
On 11/10/2019 at 1:12 PM, clemsondds said:Has anyone seen any research or actual scientific studies to show when certain line is better? (Eg guy who said only braid...) Or is it just by experience that you have come up with these conclusions? I’m still new to dishing somewhat so please don’t take my questions as an offense. Thanks!
I was 100% braid guy until about 10 years ago on a walleye fishing trip to Canada. Semi-clear water with light green stain.
Two boats circling the same “honey hole” for 2 hours. Three guys in our boat using 10 lb moss green braid, sinker and a leech.
The other boat with two guys, mono, sinker and leech. They caught 20 fish we caught 2 despite having the extra angler. We circled the same spot within 20 yards of each other and even traded bait buckets at one point.
I had one similar situation a year later with friend who was more of a novice angler, using mono... and I was using braid and we fished plastics for smallmouth. He out-fished me 3 to 1.
Ever since then I still use braid a lot but took the time to learn how to tie a mono/fluoro leader. Also switched my drop-shot rod and Neko rig to 100% fluoro main line for invisibility and uniform sink rate (it’s denser) to bottom contact.
Probably doesn’t make a difference 90% of the time, but I decided not to take a chance...
jimmyjoe reply :
On 11/10/2019 at 9:34 PM, Hook2Jaw said:on treble hooked baits, there's no need for the strength of braid. I also worry about it tearing out trebles.
Oh, yeah. I agree one million percent. Why spend all that time, trouble and money to hook a fish if you lose him on the way back to the boat .... or worse yet, right at the end, when you're just set to acquire him? And remember - it ain't the dinks that you're likely to lose there. jj
swhit140 reply :
I mostly use braid, other than that I use mono for shallow crankbaits & lipless cranks.
clemsondds reply :
Im trying to get away from leaders. I love fishing with braid but just get tired of tying an fg knot and hearing it hit the guides and worrying about knot failure. What are the cons of fluoro for crankbait and finesse?
Mike L reply :
12#-20# Flouro for everything except 80# braid for punching, 50# for frogging and 30# on top.
Mike
813basstard reply :
Lightest you can get away with while still having confidence you can jack them if needed....sorta like parenting
Fried Lemons reply :
I played around with many different configurations and have settled on a simple system.
Braid to leader for any finesse presentation thrown on spinning gear.
Straight braid for fishing heavy vegetation.
Fluorocarbon for anything dragged on the bottom.
Mono for everything else.
FishTank reply :
Jigs and soft plastic > 12lb Invizx
Crankbaits > varies on rod.... 12lb Invizx and 12lb CXX
Topwater > 15lb Sunline Natural or 50lb Briad
Jerkbaits > 12lb Invizx
All Spinning gear > 6lb Trilene XL 100% FC
Maxximus Redneckus reply :
Mono for all ...big game and hybrid ..i havent found a need for braid and definatly no need for floro..braid is not very abrasions resistant and floro stretches and has problems with knots ...mono is a jack of all trades IMO
scaleface reply :
I use mono on everything but I am going to spool up a reel with braid for frogs and toads , I just need to remember not to hold the line between my index finger and thumb or I will slice said finger on the hook-set . If that happens back to mono it will be . On my worm/jig rod I use trilene clear blue fluorescent just so I can see it , everything else gets Big game .
tholmes reply :
On 11/11/2019 at 8:40 AM, Maxximus Redneckus said:Mono for all ...big game and hybrid ..i havent found a need for braid and definatly no need for floro..braid is not very abrasions resistant and floro stretches and has problems with knots ...mono is a jack of all trades IMO
Same here. I've tries flouro and hated it. Braid is OK, but too expensive. Trilene Big Game or BPS Excel.
Tom
bwjay reply :
I've been going back and forth on what to use for next year's season. Here's what I used this year, and what I intend to use next year.
First, I was using:
* 40lb Super8SlickV2 braid to 14lb Sniper FC (or 14lb FC Leader) for all applications except frogs and flipping
* 40lb Super8SlickV2 or Sufix 832 braid for frogs and flipping
Then, I got tired of breaking off leaders at the bank and having to retie, so I switched it up to:
* 10lb Yo-Zuri Hybrid copolymer for everything except frogs and flipping
* 40lb Super8SlickV2 OR Sufix 832 braid for frogs and flipping
What I intend to do next year, with at least 1 combo for each line below:
* 80lb braid for muskies
* 65lb braid for frogs and flipping/punching
* 65lb braid to 16lb FC100 leader for flipping, big worms, big jigs, big swimbaits
* 40lb braid to 16lb FC100 leader for worms, jigs, spinners, cranks, swimbaits, topwater, jerkbaits
* 15lb FC/mono for jigs, spinners, cranks, swimbaits, topwater, jerkbaits
* 15lb braid to 10lb Sniper FC for dropshot, Ned, tubes, finesse jigs
As much as I don't like tying leaders in the field, the sensitivity and hookset response of braid to leader is too good not to use it for bottom contact presentations. I don't need it for moving baits, but I want my combos to be multidisciplinary when possible, so my 40lb braid to leader combo can be used for moving baits as you see, but it's more for worms and jigs. The 15lb FC combo is more for moving baits but I will also use it for bottom contact as well. I am thinking of trying Tatsu because line memory screws up the action of a lot of baits and casting ability, and I have read very good things. However, Tatsu is ultra expensive so I'm going to try a few other things before it, like some 12-15lb Trilene Sensation mono as I know one angler in MN has had great success with it and it's cheap enough to try. I do like Yo-Zuri Hybrid, really strong stuff, but it has a decent amount of memory and it's not the most sensitive thing. Plus I feel like it stretches a LOT; when using my Helium3s that have quite a bit of flex to them, I swear I gotta really rip on the rod to set the hook. And jerkbaits are almost pointless with that setup I think, since I can't get the rod tip to snap the bait. It's just too soft. So, I have some experimenting to do.
OnthePotomac reply :
So there you have it. Confused now? As I have posted before, when I retired and got in to bass fishing 19 years ago, before the dizzying world of mono, flouro an braid line choices, every reel I had, but the frog reel, had 14lb green mono on it and the frog reel had 20lb green mono on it. It worked great on the Potomac grass beds with lots of baits and no lost fish. Yes I have changed with everyone else regarding mixing in flouro, but have never liked braid except on my frog reel and still enjoy frog fishing with 20lb mono. So it is what do you like blondes or brunetts?
clemsondds reply :
On 11/12/2019 at 12:58 AM, OnthePotomac said:So there you have it. Confused now? As I have posted before, when I retired and got in to bass fishing 19 years ago, before the dizzying world of mono, flouro an braid line choices, every reel I had, but the frog reel, had 14lb green mono on it and the frog reel had 20lb green mono on it. It worked great on the Potomac grass beds with lots of baits and no lost fish. Yes I have changed with everyone else regarding mixing in flouro, but have never liked braid except on my frog reel and still enjoy frog fishing with 20lb mono. So it is what do you like blondes or brunetts?
Ha yeh things can get complicated quickly. I don't mind complicated, as long as there's a science/reason behind it (fg knot ha). But I would like to try to keep things as simplified as possible, while still using the best technique. I understand fluoro helping get to depth with cranking so that helps. Now just trying to decide on the others. Thanks again for all the help and advice everyone! Love hearing the different opinions on why you use what you use. Very smart people here!
punch reply :
I've gone to the KISS method. Keep it simple stupid.
All my casting rods are either 10lb fluoro (jerkbait, cranks), 15lb fluoro, or 50lb braid.
My one exception this year is running 30lb braid to a short 10" fluro leader for topwater. Really love this setup.
All my spinning rods are 10lb braid to 8lb fluoro leader.
That's it. Done.
Boomstick reply :
Here's what I have found out that I like on my reels:
7.1:1 casting reel for frogs and jigs in heavy cover: 50-65lb braid
7.1:1 casting reel for trigs in covr, jigs in lighter cover, spinerbaits or chatterbaits in cover: 17lb flurocarbon
6.3:1 casting reel for trigs, spinnerbaits or crankbaits in thicker grass: 15lb flurocarbon
6.3:1 casting reel for crankbaits and jerkbaits: 12lb flurocarbon although I will be using 10lb next year
7.1:1 casting reel for poppers and jerkbaits: 12lb mono
spinning reel for finesse: 12lb braid with a 6lb leader.
Bigassbass reply :
Mono for everything, green. braid doesn't float and who wants to tie on leaders to a fishing line and who wants to carry scissors.
Eric Hug reply :
Intentions for next year:
40lb braid for froggin
40lb braid to 12lb fc for texas rigs, paddle tails, spinnerbaits, jigs
40lb braid to 12lb mono for topwaters
15lb braid to 8lb fc for cranks, jerkbaits, Ned rigs, drop shots
All tied with Alberto knot which is easy to tie. These are all things that I've been doing successfully for the last couple of years except for the braid to leader for cranking and jerking. Is anyone familiar with doing this? Any opinions on it? Also looking at learning the infamous fg knot. Any opinions on that?
snake95 reply :
Spinning: braid to fluoro leader.
All sizes, and all applications.
Baitcasing:
Mostly - braid to fluoro leader, mono leader for topwater or cranks.
I also fish YZH straight for just about all baits, and mono straight, particularly for topwaters and cranks.
I am not an especially serious angler compared to a lot of the guys on here.
But bottom line, I have zero reservations about using braid to leaders with just about everything.
Bird reply :
Straight braid for anything moving.
Braid to FC leader for anything sitting.
NorthernBasser reply :
On 11/10/2019 at 8:38 PM, LonnieP said:Everything except bottom contact and frogs- Copoly
bottom contact-fluorocarbon
frogs-braid
This. Except I use mono for poppers/walking baits/ploppers.
And braid also for punching.
ike8120 reply :
Very interesting to see the variations that each type of line is being used.
GreenPig reply :
Muzzy 200 lb braid. Poor casting but man it's strong.
Dangerfield reply :
Straight Braid most of the time. 50lb PP Maxcurato
Braid to FC on my spinning out fits. 12lb Sufix Nanobraid to 10-12lb FC leader. Looking to test Sunline SX1.
Braid to Co-poly or Mono on my treble hook baits - I've lost a number of lures to a Northern drive by. 40lb PP Maxcurato to 12lb YZH or Sufix Siege.
Braid to titanium leader for 1oz+ swimbaits, 130 WP and all my other big baits. 50lb PP Maxcurato, also might explore 50lb FC leader and crimping.
Khoa Vu reply :
On 11/13/2019 at 11:56 PM, punch said:..
My one exception this year is running 30lb braid to a short 10" fluro leader for topwater. Really love this setup.
..
floro leader for topwater? no problem with the actions of the lure with the line pulling the head down? I usually go braid to mono leader for topwater but have heard some people using flouro so that it drags the top of the lure down giving a different action.
Chance_Taker4 reply :
I absolutely hate braid on everything concept. But that's me. I used to be a picky on what line I had spooled on what reel but this season I switched it up. I use 40# braid for heavy cover and various size Yo-Zuri Hybrid for everything else.
Bankbeater reply :
The punch rig gets 65lb braid. Everything else gets Big Game.
FishingGeekTX reply :
Braid, no leader.
No-memory on braid, lower diameter, absurdly high break strength, and casts far...I can't string up with anything else.
Braid can be somewhat a PITA in the wind, but I hate fishing in the wind with any line.
Braid can also get some gnarly knots that result in cutting more often than a polymer line, but a lot of that is mitigated by taking more precautions to avoid that happening.
I'd rather lose 1 spool every few trips to bad braid than spool up with polymer line, personally.
ChrisD46 reply :
Wild Card :
*Have a rod deemed too stiff for the application ? Use Mono / Co-Poly line.
*Have a rod deemed too soft for the application ? Use Braid .
Make the line stretch (mono - co-poly) or the lack of line stretch (braid) work for you .
FC line is a sinking "tweener" line - add to the above as required ...
Catt reply :
Berkley Big Game 15# except when punching or froging!
Boomstick reply :
On 12/6/2019 at 9:29 PM, Catt said:Berkley Big Game 15# except when punching or froging!
nice and simple
Hook2Jaw reply :
On 12/2/2019 at 9:50 AM, Eric Hug said:Intentions for next year:
40lb braid for froggin
40lb braid to 12lb fc for texas rigs, paddle tails, spinnerbaits, jigs
40lb braid to 12lb mono for topwaters
15lb braid to 8lb fc for cranks, jerkbaits, Ned rigs, drop shots
All tied with Alberto knot which is easy to tie. These are all things that I've been doing successfully for the last couple of years except for the braid to leader for cranking and jerking. Is anyone familiar with doing this? Any opinions on it? Also looking at learning the infamous fg knot. Any opinions on that?
Learn the FG. It's as easy as an Alberto, just more time consuming. Tie a long leader.
NYWayfarer reply :
I use mono most of the time for everything. Lately I have been dabbling with the following formula:
Topwater = mono
Sinking bait and cranks = Fluoro
Punching and frogs = Braid
No leaders.
Hewhospeaksmuchbull reply :
On 11/17/2019 at 8:13 AM, Bigassbass said:Mono for everything, green. braid doesn't float and who wants to tie on leaders to a fishing line and who wants to carry scissors.
Huh, my braid defiantly floats and I'm pretty sure most do. Tie a leader if I need one. I carry a small folding razor knife that fits in change pocket of my Levi's.
I use only braid, 50# on everything. With a eight or ten pound leader for finesse.
Tizi reply :
Crankbaits (square bills to deep divers) - Yo-Zuri Hybrid (8, 10 and 12 lb)
Spinnerbaits - Yo-Zuri Hybrid (8, 10 and 12 lb)
Jerkbaits - Seaguar Invisx 10 lb
Jigs/Worms - Seaquar Invisx (10 or 14 lb)
Frogs - Daiwa J-braid 65 lb
Swimbaits - Berkley Big Game 20 lb
Finesse - Seaguar Invisx 6 lb
I don't use leaders for anything.
WRB reply :
The mono stretch syndrome is imprinted into the minds of bass anglers while FC line doesn't stretch or may stretch less mono and braid doesn't stretch. Line choices are based on these beliefs as false as they are.
Having tested line for decades using accurate Instron machine that records yield strength, elongation and ultimate strength for materials used in aerospace. monofilament lines including Nylon, copolymer and Flurocarbon line all start to yield (stretch) somewhere between 35 to 40% of the ultimate strength (breaking point).
In simple terms all single filiment fishing lines are equal in the force to stretch them.
Braid made of Spectra fibers or basically all of today's braided fishing line starts to yield around 80 to 85% of ultimate strength, it stretches at much higher forces.
It's the don't confuse me with facts my mind is made up thinking.
I use mono Nylon line for it's reliable knot strength, abrasion resistance, nuetral bouyancy and lower memory since the early 60's.
Today;
Berkley Big game 10 & 12 lb , Sunline Defier Armillo 11& 25 lb and Maxima Ultra Green 5 lbs mono lines for the majority of my bass fishing presentations.
Sunline Shooter and Sniper 7 lb, 12 & 16 lb FC line for bottom contact lure presentations during day time. I don't trust my FC knot tying or impact strength at night so revert to mono.
Exception is dragging a slip shot rig I use Maxima 5 lb for finesse presentations.
Braid, I use only 1 braid FINS 60 lb for heavy cover presentation no leader.
Tom
PS, my top 5 LMB were caught on 10 and 12 lb mono line.
Dens228 reply :
I keep it very simple..
20 lb 832 with a 12 pound mono leader for cranks, jerks, small topwater like poppers and walking baits
30 lb 832 for jigs, spinnerbaits, swimbaits, T-rigs, plastics
65 lb 832 for frogging and punching
PourMyOwn reply :
On 12/7/2019 at 1:27 AM, WRB said:The mono stretch syndrome is imprinted into the minds of bass anglers while FC line doesn't stretch or may stretch less mono and braid doesn't stretch. Line choices are based on these beliefs as false as they are.
Having tested line for decades using accurate Instron machine that records yield strength, elongation and ultimate strength for materials used in aerospace. monofilament lines including Nylon, copolymer and Flurocarbon line all start to yield (stretch) somewhere between 35 to 40% of the ultimate strength (breaking point).
In simple terms all single filiment fishing lines are equal in the force to stretch them.
Braid made of Spectra fibers or basically all of today's braided fishing line starts to yield around 80 to 85% of ultimate strength, it stretches at much higher forces.
It's the don't confuse me with facts my mind is made up thinking.
I use mono Nylon line for it's reliable knot strength, abrasion resistance, nuetral bouyancy and lower memory since the early 60's.
Today;
Berkley Big game 10 & 12 lb , Sunline Defier Armillo 11& 25 lb and Maxima Ultra Green 5 lbs mono lines for the majority of my bass fishing presentations.
Sunline Shooter and Sniper 7 lb, 12 & 16 lb FC line for bottom contact lure presentations during day time. I don't trust my FC knot tying or impact strength at night so revert to mono.
Exception is dragging a slip shot rig I use Maxima 5 lb for finesse presentations.
Braid, I use only 1 braid FINS 60 lb for heavy cover presentation no leader.
Tom
PS, my top 5 LMB were caught on 10 and 12 lb mono line.
Thanks for a really informative post.
I see that you also use Maxima-by any chance do you use Ultra Green? I'm looking for a new line to buy in bulk now that my beloved Silver Thread has been discontinued.
WRB reply :
Yes I listed Maxima Ultra Green 5 lb for finesse presentations. Check the line diameters you used verses Sunline Armillo for high performance mono. Maxima tends to be a higher memory line do to it's abrasion resistance, very strong line and check the diameter per lb test for comparison.
Tom
fissure_man reply :
On 12/7/2019 at 1:27 AM, WRB said:monofilament lines including Nylon, copolymer and Flurocarbon line all start to yield (stretch) somewhere between 35 to 40% of the ultimate strength (breaking point).
yield =/= stretch
WRB reply :
On 12/7/2019 at 4:15 AM, fissure_man said:yield =/= stretch
True, yield = force in pounds.
35% of 12 lb test line = 4.2 lbs force require to yield or stretch the 12 lb test mono line.
The average MH (medium heavy) or 4 power bass rod can apply 4 lbs of lifting force before bottoming out. Bottoming out means the rod is fully bent 90 degrees tip to reel and may fail if any more force is applied.4 lbs of force with 12 lb test line is required to start the yield or stretch process.
Simple test wrap the line around each hand several wraps with about 1' of line space between the hands. Now move your hande wider part applying force to stretch the line.
The line is digging into your hands not stretching until enough force is applied. You can have someone mark the line and watch for stretch movement between the marks on the line between your hands.
If you snap your hands apart that represents impact strength, also import with line.
What everyone feels as mono strectch is the force required to overcome coeffienct of water drag creating a big bow in the line to straighten out the bow.
Tom
fissure_man reply :
What I mean is, ‘force to yield’ should not be equated with ‘force to stretch.’ In fact, the concept of a minimum ‘force to stretch’ doesn’t even make sense, because it implies that below some threshold the material is infinitely stiff.
Yield refers to irreversible deformation beyond the material’s elastic limit. Although an elastic-plastic material under tension does stretch or elongate as it yields, an elastic ‘phase’ of stretching begins immediately upon loading and increases with increasing load. This is the ‘stretch’ that anglers refer to!
For a material like nylon fishing line under short term loading, significant elastic strain (stretch) can and does occur before any yielding, and this stretch is at detectable at very low loads. Nylon mono’s tendency to return to original length even after significant stretching displays its capacity for elastic (non-yielding) deformation.
The experiment with 1 ft of line will certainly not violate the above, though it may be difficult to eyeball the elastic stretch with such a short length between one’s hands. If you attach one end of the line to something rigid and the other to a proper handle, even 1 ft of line would stretch by a length easily felt and measured. The stretch will be miniscule, but its magnitude (stretched length minus original length) for a given load is proportional to the length of the line – that tiny stretch felt over 1 ft can be multiplied by 100 (ft) for a reasonable-length cast.
Whether or not this stretch matters or is a meaningful obstacle to fishing success is a question for another day, but there’s no question that it occurs!
The aerospace industry (with which you are familiar) relies on many precision-engineered components and materials to deform elastically without yielding; the concept is the same.
WRB reply :
Agree, consider the applied force is being applied by a flexible fishing rod in units of onces so low that no measurable elasticity can not be detected. I didn't want to get into time over strain or many other factors that are all off set by coeffient of drag that nylon line creates is greater then any other fishing line. If you or anyone has experience with very fast strong game fish like Wahoo, tuna or Marlin the line drag going through water is obvious.
If mono stretched over 100' of line length it would be impossible to apply enough force to penetrate a hook set with 5/0 jigs at that distances, a fact I accomplish on a regularly.
Peace,
Tom
clemsondds reply :
Has anyone seen any studies or experiments to show if fish can truly detect straight braid vs braid to leader? Thinking about switching to straight braid for some jig applications. Thanks
Choporoz reply :
On 12/8/2019 at 11:31 PM, clemsondds said:Has anyone seen any studies or experiments to show if fish can truly detect straight braid vs braid to leader? Thinking about switching to straight braid for some jig applications. Thanks
You will get wide range of opinions, but not likely anything related to scientific experimentation. And even if you find some factual answer to your question about 'detection'....you still may not be any closer to knowing if that limits your likelihood of getting bit.
It seems to be fairly commonly accepted that less line visibility is better. But that might be a flawed assumption to start the discussion.
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