Just thought I would share a pic of some rods I customized. I turned them into splitgrips and painted the blank to the first eylet. The rods are different brands so that is why they look a little different. It is pretty easy to do, and cost very little. It was fun too!
hey those look nice. Great job on the split grip work also.
Did those rods have full cork handles before? cause I tried to do that to few older rods and it looked bad?
Quotehey those look nice. Great job on the split grip work also.
Thanks!
QuoteDid those rods have full cork handles before? cause I tried to do that to few older rods and it looked bad?
Yes they did. A Box Cutter, Dremel tool, and sandpaper, were the tools used.
Nice job! 8-)
Nice job. I just did one too, a St Croix Triumph, 7'MH BC. Does that make it a Mojo? LOL ;D
I will post a pic soon.
QuoteNice job. I just did one too, a St Croix Triumph, 7'MH BC. Does that make it a Mojo? LOL ;DI will post a pic soon.
Only if you did the mod in Mexico.
Good job! I did the same thing to two of my rods a couple years ago. One spinning (rapala) and one casting rod (lightning).
They both came out great too, as did yours. And you're right. It is a blast to do.
Okay, those look great! I think I'm going to take a crack on doing one. I've got a 7ft MH Lightning Rod that I rarely use but I might use it more if it had split grip handle.
Sounds like project time at my house!
Is that reel on the far right missing a handle?
QuoteIs that reel on the far right missing a handle?
I think it's there.
Cool illusion though.
How do you do this I love split grips but not many brands have them is it hard?
I forgot to add... any tips on what NOT to do when doing this?
I'm pretty handy but no need to reinvent the wheel if you know what I mean.
I have 3 Team All Stars that I can see gettin this treatment real soon, when I can find the time that is. That definitely looks like a pro job.
How did you get all the extra glue of the rod from where the cork used to be?
QuoteHow did you get all the extra glue of the rod from where the cork used to be?
I did this with sandpaper. I heard of people using heat to soften the epoxy, but I did it with sandpaper before knowing this was an option.
I would be interested to know there is a method to remove the epoxy chemically in a way that won't damage the blank. I think this would be a better way to go.
Rapala Spinning Rod
Lightning Casting Rod
When held, the palm is in contact with the blank.
QuoteIs that reel on the far right missing a handle?
NO, All the handles are there LOL! ....
...to another question about what not to do. The main thing I would NOT do is "whittle" the cork away, or cut into the blank. BE CAREFUL!. Don't cut the blank. If you use a knife to chip the cork away, take your time, dont "whittle" it, just gently pop it away. Other than that, It is easy.
Acetone might work to remove the glu from the blank. I used sandpaper also. Depending on the makeup of the glue, I know you can by cyanacralate remover at hobby shops like hobby lobby. it is with the cyanacralate, usually in the model airplane isle. Haven't tried to remove it chemically, but it is a good idea. If you use acetone, keep it away from plastic.
Islandbass, That rod looks great!
Here is the Triumph. I think I will sand down some more this weekend. Remember...you can always take some off, you cant take some on!
This rod will actually get some use this year. I think I cought about 5 fish on it last year.
Cool! That looks killer.
Ok but here's my issue. When I try this on some rods I want to remove the cork above the reel seat for sensitivity reasons. Will sanding the rod blank hurt sensitivity??
when I took the foregrip off, there was a layer of glue on the blank. I was carefull to sand off the glue without sanding into the blank. same w the bottom cork.
I don't see why removing the foregrip from an average blank would give you gains in sensitivity.
Basstracker,
Thanks! Yeah, finding a way to chemically remove the epoxy would be ideal. As for acetone, do you think it would damage the blank. I have seen what it can do to plastic.
J,
I think the idea behind the notion of increased sensitivity comes from this - without the foregrip, the hand will be in direct contact with the blank as opposed to having cork or whatever material impede the transmission of feedback to the angler's hand. I reckon the increase in sensitivity will be there but not by too much.
GAJ,
Looking good! When you get to the point where you're going to shape the cork, I recommend covering the exposed blank with painter's tape. This will eliminate any chance of scratching the blank with sandpaper or rasp or file when you start to finalize the shape of the remaining cork behind the reel seat and the butt.
QuoteOk but here's my issue. When I try this on some rods I want to remove the cork above the reel seat for sensitivity reasons. Will sanding the rod blank hurt sensitivity??
Sanding will not hurt sensitivity but sanding into the blank will compromise the rods integrity. Go slow and be careful.
QuoteBasstracker,Thanks! Yeah, finding a way to chemically remove the epoxy would be ideal. As for acetone, do you think it would damage the blank. I have seen what it can do to plastic.
J,
I think the idea behind the notion of increased sensitivity comes from this - without the foregrip, the hand will be in direct contact with the blank as opposed to having cork or whatever material impede the transmission of feedback to the angler's hand. I reckon the increase in sensitivity will be there but not by too much.
GAJ,
Looking good! When you get to the point where you're going to shape the cork, I recommend covering the exposed blank with painter's tape. This will eliminate any chance of scratching the blank with sandpaper or rasp or file when you start to finalize the shape of the remaining cork behind the reel seat and the butt.
That's general idea behind no fore grip. A far as solvents go, I don't use anything harsher than denatured alcohol. If you can get under the epoxy without cutting into the blank it will often peel once you get it started.
Won't make any noticeable difference on an average blank.
With a rod like the Triumph, I am not trying to claim any extra sensitivity. It was a fun project on a rod that got no use and now it will.
It does seem to me that St Croix is making a whole lot more money on the Mojo than the Triumph based on the MSRP. Add a little bling, some technique specific wording, and charge $100 instead of $70. Just saying...
You don't think that the Mexican labor is worth a little more than the Chinese labor?
Serious?
QuoteYou don't think that the Mexican labor is worth a little more than the Chinese labor?
apparently it is to st croix!
Wow, just wow. :-X
QuoteYou don't think that the Mexican labor is worth a little more than the Chinese labor?
Shipping over the ocean from China would be an added cost that you won't have to worry about so the difference in cost isn't likely to be that much.
You'd have to prove that to me, and include any spiffs/tariffs/backroom discounts being handed out. otherwise you pulling out of thin air.
Lemme guess, you guys all drive American cars, like the Chevy Equinox....
:-?
As far as "increased sensitivity, let me ask a PROFESSIONAL rod builder this question: If I came to you and said sensitivity was important to me, would you honestly suggest an SCII blank and a skeleton grip? Seriously, the only reason guys are doing this is to make their rods look fancy. I don't have any problem with that, but don't tell me your jig rod is better because you took a set of pliers and some sandpaper to it.
QuoteQuoteYou don't think that the Mexican labor is worth a little more than the Chinese labor?Shipping over the ocean from China would be an added cost that you won't have to worry about so the difference in cost isn't likely to be that much.
how much more does it cost to ship stuff on a boat than on a truck?
I also wonder how much of a difference there is in cost of labor.
Either way, I think St Croix is benefiting from the "Made in North America" labels they can put on the Mojos.
QuoteLemme guess, you guys all drive American cars, like the Chevy Equinox....:-?
Nope, I drive an American car like the Toyota Sienna (made in IN).
Not that the manufacturing location means anything to me.
Quotehow much more does it cost to ship stuff on a boat than on a truck?
The rod made in China has to go on a boat and on a truck. So, the added cost is getting it across the ocean.
QuoteQuotehow much more does it cost to ship stuff on a boat than on a truck?The rod made in China has to go on a boat and on a truck. So, the added cost is getting it across the ocean.
What about the cost of labor? There are TONS of industries that manufacture overseas because even despite additional shipping costs it is still cheaper because the cost of labor is so much less.
T,
If you think the cost of doing business outside of the US is simply about shipping costs, then you know nothing. Produce one iota of fact about the costs of Mexican made rods vs. Chinese made rods, and I'll listen, otherwise you are blowing steam.
Want to know what I think? Its worth a fortune to St. Croix to label these rods "Made in North America." Look at all the guys that absolutely love these duds. And I say that lovingly, as big St. Croix user (9 or so rods from them).
QuoteYou'd have to prove that to me, and include any spiffs/tariffs/backroom discounts being handed out. otherwise you pulling out of thin air.Lemme guess, you guys all drive American cars, like the Chevy Equinox....
:-?
As far as "increased sensitivity, let me ask a PROFESSIONAL rod builder this question: If I came to you and said sensitivity was important to me, would you honestly suggest an SCII blank and a skeleton grip? Seriously, the only reason guys are doing this is to make their rods look fancy. I don't have any problem with that, but don't tell me your jig rod is better because you took a set of pliers and some sandpaper to it.
I'm no pro, but I'll give my answer.
No, I would try to get you to buy the highest quality blank you could afford. Once you chose your blank, I would than attempt to talk you out of using a foregrip
In OEM builds, I can't imagine the gains are going to be that noticeable. I'm a big proponent of split grips, skeleton seats, and no foregrips, but I believe the stick needs to be built around these concepts.
The rods in the original post look great! I don't mean to discourage what your doing, you've done well!
QuoteQuoteQuoteYou don't think that the Mexican labor is worth a little more than the Chinese labor?Shipping over the ocean from China would be an added cost that you won't have to worry about so the difference in cost isn't likely to be that much.
how much more does it cost to ship stuff on a boat than on a truck?
I also wonder how much of a difference there is in cost of labor.
Either way, I think St Croix is benefiting from the "Made in North America" labels they can put on the Mojos.
My mojo does not say anywhere on the rod about where it was made, my avids and premere say USA
No one said anything about Avids....
You will find, if you read the Features section, that Mojo rods are Designed in Park Falls and handcrafted in Fresnillo, Mexico.
Turn to the Avid page, and you'll see that they are designed and handcrafted in Park Falls, U.S.A.
This isn't secret information, folks.
I was just trying to say no where on my mojo does it state where it was made
QuoteI'm no pro, but I'll give my answer.No, I would try to get you to buy the highest quality blank you could afford. Once you chose your blank, I would than attempt to talk you out of using a foregrip
Not even a teeny tiny little foregrip? LOL.
QuoteIn OEM builds, I can't imagine the gains are going to be that noticeable. I'm a big proponent of split grips, skeleton seats, and no foregrips, but I believe the stick needs to be built around these concepts.
I agree. I'll go a little further and say that "the concept" doesn't have to totally involve weight reduction, though that is a plus. I'd like St. Croix to make me an 8' SCIV rod just like an LTB Flippin', but with a full rear grip and rubberized cork butt. The concept here would be sacrificing a bit of weight for a bit function in the grips.
QuoteThe rods in the original post look great! I don't mean to discourage what your doing, you've done well!
I agree, though I would echo the cautionary words about removing too much. Some the pictures show rear grips that would be uncomfortable with my own casting style.
I think if you're going that far, get creative and do something useful as well, like adding finger slots in the cork. A friend of mine does this, and he's no artist, but they work great for him.
QuoteI was just trying to say no where on my mojo does it state where it was made
I was just telling you where it was made. Is there a point in quoting me there?
I am wearing gray socks today....just saying.
QuoteT,Want to know what I think? Its worth a fortune to St. Croix to label these rods "Made in North America." Look at all the guys that absolutely love these duds. And I say that lovingly, as big St. Croix user (9 or so rods from them).
Thats kind of what I am saying. My 7'MH Triumph is the same rod spec as the 7'MH Mojo that says Spinnerbait on it. The retail diff is $30. St Croix is getting fat on Mojo, and just doing low profit turns on the Triumph. I say good for them if we keep buying it.
As far as the no foregrip thing....hey just having a little fun during the freeze with a rod that was collecting dust. I'm not trying to be too serious here.
QuoteQuoteT,Want to know what I think? Its worth a fortune to St. Croix to label these rods "Made in North America." Look at all the guys that absolutely love these duds. And I say that lovingly, as big St. Croix user (9 or so rods from them).
Thats kind of what I am saying. My 7'MH Triumph is the same rod spec as the 7'MH Mojo that says Spinnerbait on it. The retail diff is $30. St Croix is getting fat on Mojo, and just doing low profit turns on the Triumph. I say good for them if we keep buying it.
As far as the no foregrip thing....hey just having a little fun during the freeze with a rod that was collecting dust. I'm not trying to be too serious here.
Don't forget the cost of the split grip as well.
While only a handfull of people at St Croix could give specifics about total final cost of a rod made in China vs. Mexico, I can tell you it's not as far off as you may think. Here's why... first, China is constantly increasing regulations, and recently made noticable increases to wages. Second, the rates for standard ocean shipments have greatly increased over the last couple of years. Third (and this is huge), there was essentially a clarification on the application of the tariffs a few years ago that increased the cost of Asain imports (for not all, but many companies).
Combine all that with the super highway that's supposed to be built from Mexico City up to KC, and I'd say St Croix is just ahead of the curve.
after reading this thread, i almost feel as though ive been on the tread mill for 20 mins or so.
QuoteT,If you think the cost of doing business outside of the US is simply about shipping costs, then you know nothing. Produce one iota of fact about the costs of Mexican made rods vs. Chinese made rods, and I'll listen, otherwise you are blowing steam.
Wow, did someone pee on your shoes this morning or what? If you're looking for hard numbers then where are yours to support your opinion or are you blowing steam?
My point was that you have to take more into consideration that just labor costs. Not having to ship over the ocean lessens costs and transit time so inventory can be better manager because it can be brought to market more quickly.
You can get Freight Forwarders to blow you right now, at the height of the fuel prices, a container would run about 6000-8000, right now the cost of shipping per rod would be cents not dollars. (Why does the guy from NY have such an attitude?, such a stereotype).
QuoteQuoteT,If you think the cost of doing business outside of the US is simply about shipping costs, then you know nothing. Produce one iota of fact about the costs of Mexican made rods vs. Chinese made rods, and I'll listen, otherwise you are blowing steam.
Wow, did someone pee on your shoes this morning or what? If you're looking for hard numbers then where are yours to support your opinion or are you blowing steam?
My point was that you have to take more into consideration that just labor costs. Not having to ship over the ocean lessens costs and transit time so inventory can be better manager because it can be brought to market more quickly.
That was my point as well. There are logistical, political, marketing, and Lord knows what other costs associated in addition to whatever TTM processes are involved. It sounded as though you were focused on shipping as the only difference. My point is, St. Croix has had ads running in magazines promoting Mojo as Made in N. America. To them, that is worth more than any pennies saved or lost on shipping. BTW, I used to get shipments of frozen fish food that literally came on a slow boat from China. Freight was never that much. That was ten years ago, LOL.
Quote(Why does the guy from NY have such an attitude?, such a stereotype).
From dealing with too many buttheads.
You guys need to take up a new hobby until the ice thaws.....
Ok, geography lesson time for those who still may be confused. NORTH America is a very large continent of which the United States (the good ol' USA) is a part of. There are 23 countries, plus a bunch of sovereign states and territories that comprise North America. So the phrase "Made in North America" is nothing more than a slick marketing term. It's not the same as "Made in the USA" You need to read between the lines. Not knocking St. Croix, just don't be fooled.
QuoteYou guys need to take up a new hobby until the ice thaws.....Ok, geography lesson time for those who still may be confused. NORTH America is a very large continent of which the United States (the good ol' USA) is a part of. There are 23 countries, plus a bunch of sovereign states and territories that comprise North America. So the phrase "Made in North America" is nothing more than a slick marketing term. It's not the same as "Made in the USA" You need to read between the lines. Not knocking St. Croix, just don't be fooled.
I'm pretty sure that isn't a point of contention in this thread.
QuoteQuoteYou guys need to take up a new hobby until the ice thaws.....Ok, geography lesson time for those who still may be confused. NORTH America is a very large continent of which the United States (the good ol' USA) is a part of. There are 23 countries, plus a bunch of sovereign states and territories that comprise North America. So the phrase "Made in North America" is nothing more than a slick marketing term. It's not the same as "Made in the USA" You need to read between the lines. Not knocking St. Croix, just don't be fooled.
I'm pretty that isn't a point of contention in this thread.
I'm sure you are pretty :-*
QuoteQuoteQuoteYou guys need to take up a new hobby until the ice thaws.....Ok, geography lesson time for those who still may be confused. NORTH America is a very large continent of which the United States (the good ol' USA) is a part of. There are 23 countries, plus a bunch of sovereign states and territories that comprise North America. So the phrase "Made in North America" is nothing more than a slick marketing term. It's not the same as "Made in the USA" You need to read between the lines. Not knocking St. Croix, just don't be fooled.
I'm pretty that isn't a point of contention in this thread.
I'm sure you are pretty :-*
#&$^! my gotdang keyboard be brokeded.
Wow!
To get back on track of this crazy hijacking... ;D
Here's a nice link to doing a split grip.
http://forums.basspro.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=2;t=024404
Yeah Dave D!!!!!
Just what I was looking for.
Thanks Dave! That was a good post. That is very close to how I did it. Except I didnt heat the glue. I also used a dremel tool. ....also, I didn't realize how easy posting rod pictures, turned into international business practices. LOL!
I prefer an elongated hour-glass shaped handle with a one inch long foregrip sanded to a slightly smaller taper forward... but that's just the way I like my rods so I'm not sure why anyone else should care.
QuoteI prefer an elongated hour-glass shaped handle with a one inch long foregrip sanded to a slightly smaller taper forward... but that's just the way I like my rods so I'm not sure why anyone else should care.
My fishing partner does that also. They are very comfortable that way. This was my first go at it. I am sure that I will "hone" my craft in time. I did mine a certain way because I wanted the heel of my hand to rest directly on the blank. When I hold the rod, I "hold the reel". Very little of my hand actally touches the handle. the trigger of the rod, goes in between my pinkie and ring finger. But the main thing is, before anybody does this to their rod, visualize how you hold it, and what would be comfortable. Because personal preference is everything.
can this be done with foam grips? i want to try it on a cheap rod before i just go full ahead on an expensive rod lol
thanks
LJ
Silver Bullet, It might. I have never tried it. the problem with foam is, I don't know if you can "shape" the foam once it is all said and done. I dunno if it "tears" and have rough edges, or sands smooth. I guess I will have to try one.
those look great what kind of paint did you use
QuoteSilver Bullet, It might. I have never tried it. the problem with foam is, I don't know if you can "shape" the foam once it is all said and done. I dunno if it "tears" and have rough edges, or sands smooth. I guess I will have to try one.
well i set out and tried it on my current baitcaster rod, just a berkely el cheapo. it actually came out better than i thought and only took me about 20 minutes all said and done. the pic below with the cork grip is my buddy's that he did today in about the same amount of time.
and i gotta post up the megaforce haha
Quotethose look great what kind of paint did you use
I uses gloss krylon. You know, If I had to do it over again, I would have used a light colored primer first. Up close, I ca see thin spots in the paint, also, i dunno how durable the coat will be over time. But, like I said, it was my first try. Trial and error over time will help a man develop a good system.
QuoteQuoteSilver Bullet, It might. I have never tried it. the problem with foam is, I don't know if you can "shape" the foam once it is all said and done. I dunno if it "tears" and have rough edges, or sands smooth. I guess I will have to try one.well i set out and tried it on my current baitcaster rod, just a berkely el cheapo. it actually came out better than i thought and only took me about 20 minutes all said and done. the pic below with the cork grip is my buddy's that he did today in about the same amount of time.
and i gotta post up the megaforce haha
Man, your foam grip one looks great. Looks like it shaped nicely.good Job!
QuoteQuoteQuoteSilver Bullet, It might. I have never tried it. the problem with foam is, I don't know if you can "shape" the foam once it is all said and done. I dunno if it "tears" and have rough edges, or sands smooth. I guess I will have to try one.well i set out and tried it on my current baitcaster rod, just a berkely el cheapo. it actually came out better than i thought and only took me about 20 minutes all said and done. the pic below with the cork grip is my buddy's that he did today in about the same amount of time.
and i gotta post up the megaforce haha
Man, your foam grip one looks great. Looks like it shaped nicely.good Job!
thanks! i appreciate the confidence boost! haha. i coulda got it a little better but i dont really care, it looks fine and serves its purpose