I've recently picked up my first baitcasting setup and have been frustrated of recently. I got a Lew's Speed Spool LFS on sale for $69.99
http://www.lews.com/casting-speedspool.php
AND
An Abu Garcia Veritas 2.0 7'0" MH/F Micro Guide. It was a gift and I just noticed the micro guides...
But anyways,
I've read all about baitcasters, watched a million videos on how to set one up, adjusting the spool tension knob for each lure, brake systems, ect... BUT when I go to cast (i started with a side arm cast), my lure with go 15-20 feet at the most... And when I cast over hand, the lure with goes like straight into the water 10 feet ahead of me and I'll get a huge birds nest... I, first, spooled it with 50# power pro for frog fishing (5/8 ounce frog!) and thought, maybe it's too heavy of a line for a micro guide rod, and then I spooled it with 15# braid and got the exact same result...
I'm not whipping it like I would a spinning rod (even tho i tried that), I'm smoothly casting it and have no idea why I can't get any distance... Do I need to oil/grease up a new reel? It seemed to be over oiled when I got it.
Also, one thing to point out is, the guides on my rod seem to be 'not' perfectly straight. Could that be the issue? They seem to be leaning left.
Any advice??? It's making me only want to use spinning gear for the rest of my life and never use a baitcaster again. I promise, it's not my casting. I'm not that bad/dumb at casting, but I have no idea what the problem could be.
On 4/29/2015 at 4:49 PM, Bostonstronggggg said:Any advice??? It's making me only want to use spinning gear for the rest of my life and never use a baitcaster again. I promise, it's not my casting. I'm not that bad/dumb at casting, but I have no idea what the problem could be.
Ok! Since we already know that it isn't YOU, then it must be that cheap rod n reel that you bought! LOL
Sell the cheap stuff and go buy yourself a real expensive Shimano Antares HG or Daiwa Steeze and while your at it, pick up a $500.00 NRX! That will surely solve all of your problems!
In all seriousness, I doubt that it's your equipment. You are a nooby when it comes to casting with a baitcaster and you quite haven't got the hang of it. So what! The last thing that want to do is quit!
I have never used your rod but one thing that I would do is tie on a jig or a T-Rig with a bullet weight that is as close to your rods maximum lure rating as possible and practice with that. A heavier weight always helps and avoid lures that have a lot of wind resistance. Your reel has brakes for a reason. I suggest that you use more brakes than you currently use and tighten your cast control knob some and practice practice practice!
On 4/29/2015 at 5:08 PM, John G said:Ok! Since we already know that it isn't YOU, then it must be that cheap rod n reel that you bought! LOL
Sell the cheap stuff and go buy yourself a real expensive Shimano Antares HG or Daiwa Steeze and while your at it, pick up a $500.00 NRX! That will surely solve all of your problems!
In all seriousness, I doubt that it's your equipment. You are a nooby when it comes to casting with a baitcaster and you quite haven't got the hang of it. So what! The last thing that want to do is quit!
I have never used your rod but one thing that I would do is tie on a jig or a T-Rig that is as close to your rods maximum lure rating as possible and practice with that. A heavier weight always helps and avoid lures that have a lot of wind resistance. Your reel has brakes for a reason. I suggest that you use more brakes than you currently use and tighten your cast control knob some and practice practice practice!
HAHA! I guess it is me then?
But I seriously can't cast far at all. It feels like the line's not coming out smoothly. I also forgot to mention that when I reel in, there seems to be a sound coming from the reel. Is it just the line noise? Is that normal?
Thanks for you comment btw.
I just read some reviews of the Veritas 2.0 and 1 review stuck out. The guy said the rods were stiff. I looked at the lure ratings and I see that they have a MH with a lure rating up to 1oz. 1oz is what my H Loomis MBR844 had. If I were you, I wouldn't use a bullet weight less than 1/2oz or a jig less than 1/2oz.
On 4/29/2015 at 5:20 PM, Bostonstronggggg said:HAHA! I guess it is me then?
But I seriously can't cast far at all. It feels like the line's not coming out smoothly. I also forgot to mention that when I reel in, there seems to be a sound coming from the reel. Is it just the line noise? Is that normal?
Thanks for you comment btw.
I am a Shimano guy. I have no idea what is normal for a Lews reel. With Shimano's centrifugal brakes, the brakes on the palm side control the cast (control spool speed) at the beginning of the cast and the cast control knob controls spool speed near the end of the cast. My guess is you need to control spool speed on both the start and finish. I think that you probably have a rod that is stiff and you need more weight to effectively cast with it.
On 4/29/2015 at 5:24 PM, John G said:I just read some reviews of the Veritas 2.0 and 1 review stuck out. The guy said the rods were stiff. I looked at the lure ratings and I see that they have a MH with a lure rating up to 1oz. 1oz is what my H Loomis MBR844 had. If I were you, I wouldn't use a bullet weight less than 1/2oz or a jig less than 1/2oz.
Yeah, it is a stiff rod. It wasn't my first choice, as it was given to me as a gift haha, but I will keep that in mind. Thanks for your help, man.
Thank you for all your help, John! I will try out some heavier lures!
On 4/29/2015 at 5:31 PM, Bostonstronggggg said:Yeah, it is a stiff rod. It wasn't my first choice, as it was given to me as a gift haha, but I will keep that in mind. Thanks for your help, man.
I once had the opportunity to show a guy how to cast and his KVD Walmart Special made me look like a rookie. It was a MH rod and I couldn't stop getting backlashes until I adjusted the brakes and cast control cap a lot and then the problem was there was no distance. I finally realized that we were not using near enough weight to load the rod prior to casting. I didn't have a weight with me that was heavy enough to cast the rod effectively.
IMHO, you should start throwing heavier more aerodynamic lures.
A 5/8oz lure should be easy to cast with that set up and I'll see if I can help. The first thing is the spool tension knob, tie your bait on and hold the rod at the 10 o'clock position and loosen the knob until the lure begins to drop slow. The next thing is the brakes, that reel only has magnetic brakes which help more once the cast is away, if you have no experience with a casting reel this will make it hard for you to learn. The reason being is you need to feather the line at the beginning of the cast until the magnetic brakes can do their job, not knowing how to feather the line with you thumb is going to make the learning curve much steeper, this is actually a good reel but harder to learn as it has no centrifugal braking. So, the way we are going to fix this is by practice and not on the water, outside in your yard or if you don't have a large enough yard you can drive to a field somewhere. Start by setting the spool tension knob like I mentioned earlier and then set the external brakes to 10 and then make short easy cast, remember to keep your thumb over the spool. Once you have the 10 to 20 foot cast down, set the brake dial to 7 or 8 and make the exact same cast and repeat until you feel you have it down and then decrease the brake by 2 each time until you get to 2. Once you get to two you will then set you brake at 8 and try to make a longer cast, if you can make a smooth cast without backlashing at this point, you should be able to lower the brake to 5 and get enough distance to fish, the important thing to remember is you need to practice, you aren't going to learn to use that on the water, it just isn't going to work well trying to lean to cast and catch fish at the same time, it just leads to more frustration. You got a decent reel, the problem is a reel with centrifugal brakes would be easier to learn on as they help you at the beginning of a cast and that is where most backlashes occur, magnetic brakes work at the middle to end part of the cast. If you practice with it for a couple of hours each day, you should be able to fish pretty good within a week but I've watched guys get it quick and within an hour they were good to go and I've help others that took a few weeks to get it down, it depends on how bad you want to learn, if you really want to use a casting set up you will get it, if you really don't care, you will most likely end up frustrated if it takes a little time and just end up spinning. Give it an honest go, take your time and don't force it and once you have it down it is like riding a bike, you'll be able to pick any reel up and get it to work but you will have to learn about centrifugal braking which isn't hard once you learn with your reel.
Boston, don't give up on a baitcaster. Once you've established some degree of success, I'm sure you'll be pleased. Yesterday, while bank fishing, I used one of my old spinning outfits just because of the dense shore growth. I couldn't wait to go back to my level wind reel. Hang in there, it may take a while to get proficient with the new outfit. Good luck.
I'm wondering if your reel needs cleaned and the bearings flushed in addition to you needing more time using it.
It may be your technique. Try letting the lure fly before it your rod hits 90 degrees. It's kind of hard to explain in words
Just stick with it, you'll get there. As a lot of the guys here stated use a bait towards the max the rod is recommended for. Also, when you cast overhand it's different than casting overhand with a spinning reel. Pick the point you are trying to cast to, and then aim about 10 feet above it. That should help you get a nice smooth cast and also get the correct release point. Hang in there and you'll get it.
Pull off 100' of line and put a strip of electrical tape around the spool. This will keep any backlash from getting too deep.
Casting is 90% rod. If it doesn't load properly with the weight both distance abd accuracy will suffer. Tie on a 3/4oz weight to practice with.
The braid and mono are about the same size so no problem there.
Casting is just like throwing a ball in that release point is everything for accuracy. If the bait splashes down in front of you the release was late. If it launches up in the air it's early. Same thing left and right. Nice, easy fluid motion is the goal. Don't get frustrated and horse it.
I bought one bait caster so far, a BPS tourney special, anyways, I see, hear, read about how great they are, well I guess that is true for the ones that "get it down" on the casting. Been practicing on and off the water for about a year now, still can't outcast my open cast, plus its right handed and the switch up after the cast is just weird for me. Been trying to find a left handed one to try out before wasting my money on another. So yeah I feel your pain Bostonstronggggg. Before everyone inputs, yes I have had people show me how to cast it. I wish I could get it down...IDK.
DVT nailed it, uneducated thumb
It took me a long time to master a bait caster. During the learning period I became an expert at picking out a backlash . Don't give up, make short cast, overhead, underhand, and side arm, useing different weights until you find a weight that seems better for you. Then change the brakes to different settings until you find a setting that seems to work for you. Keep practicing with short casts and over time you can reduce the weight and slack off the brakes which will award you the distance you want. It could take a year, but think of all the fun you will have for 12 months
All mono lines aren't the same. Some cast way better than others. For smooth casting I would use Trilene XL 12- 17 lb. I dont use it anymore because of the stretch but with your stiff rod that could be a good thing. You have lots of good advice above.
For pure casting distance nothing beats properly setup spinning tackle. Some find baitcasting more accurate. I like the way casting gear handles heavy line and baits but you ca certainly setup spinning tackle to do the same. I feel like mastering different types of tackle is part of the fun and enhances the overall fishing experience, but it causes you more anxiety than it's worth stick with what you're comfortable with. BTW, a lot of people, myself included are right handed but prefer "lefty" casting reels.
a lot of people go through this, I know I know I did. You have to overcome an inconsistent release point and an unedcuated thumb.
I started just pitching a jig into a trash can. That build confidence that my thumb was better able to detect and react to overruns happening. Once I had the thumb down, I could make more bad casts that didn't result in huge birds nests until it "clicked" and I started bombing baits. It took awhile, and a few spools of line.
I wish I would have read more and learned the tape trick... that saves some serious hassle and cuts the learning curve.
The 4 reels for me that I've had zero casting issues and the very least if any amount of backlash have been the Citica D,E, Curado E, Chronarch 100B, and the Tatula's. Lew's seem very moody to me....unpredictable I'd say. The only two Lew's I've had good success with is the BB1 and BB2 and I just traded my BB2 so no going back to Lew's for me, ever. I've done it a couple times and won't go back again. Not saying you can't have success and cast great with them but I won't even try anymore. For as little time as I get to fish I can't go out there with a reel that's "moody". I need consistent , worry free casting. I've been casting baitcasters for a long time so I'm not too bad it but I absolutely believe there are brands and models that are easier to fish with than others. Not sure what makes them that way.
I taught myself how to use a bait caster in about an hour in the back yard. If I can do it, you can do it. Now, I was able to purposely choose my first gear, so I had that advantage. It was a Lews Speed Spool Tourney which has a true dual braking system and a Cabelas Tourney ZX rod (M, Mod Fast). I got some cheap 12lb mono (Trilene XL incidentally) and a 4-pack of 3/8 oz sinkers. All I watched was the two "how to" baitcaster videos here on Bass Resource and started slinging a 3/8 weight around the backyard.
The biggest piece of advice I can give is to make sure you load up the rod. Whatever bait you are using, let it hang 24-30 inches from the rod tip. This will help build flex in the rod and science take over from there. Make sure half of your centrifugal brakes are on and any external settings are set to halfway for starters. Spool tension knob is important too. The brakes control the spool the first half of the cast, the spool tension know the last half. But the important part for me was is loading up the rod and using two hands for a consistent sweeping cast. The next part is training your thumb. When in doubt, thumb it out. Thumb down on the spool if you feel uneasy about a cast.
I'm a hockey guy, so the best analogy I can come up with is a spinning rod and reel is like a wrist shot where you want to use strength and leverage to flex the heck out of the rod to 'shoot' the lure. The casting rod is like a snapshot or backhander where you have to bring the rod back to load it up some with the weight of the lure/bait.
Also, heed these words. Once you master the bait casting rod and reel - your wallet will empty. And it will stay empty. I have never witnessed anything like it in all my years on earth. #BaitMonkey
Roll cast it to load the rod but do it gently. Swing the bait side arm over the rod in a circular motion. If you have a jerky cast or snap your wrist your asking for trouble when your just starting.
On 4/29/2015 at 7:06 PM, smalljaw67 said:A 5/8oz lure should be easy to cast with that set up and I'll see if I can help. The first thing is the spool tension knob, tie your bait on and hold the rod at the 10 o'clock position and loosen the knob until the lure begins to drop slow. The next thing is the brakes, that reel only has magnetic brakes which help more once the cast is away, if you have no experience with a casting reel this will make it hard for you to learn. The reason being is you need to feather the line at the beginning of the cast until the magnetic brakes can do their job, not knowing how to feather the line with you thumb is going to make the learning curve much steeper, this is actually a good reel but harder to learn as it has no centrifugal braking. So, the way we are going to fix this is by practice and not on the water, outside in your yard or if you don't have a large enough yard you can drive to a field somewhere. Start by setting the spool tension knob like I mentioned earlier and then set the external brakes to 10 and then make short easy cast, remember to keep your thumb over the spool. Once you have the 10 to 20 foot cast down, set the brake dial to 7 or 8 and make the exact same cast and repeat until you feel you have it down and then decrease the brake by 2 each time until you get to 2. Once you get to two you will then set you brake at 8 and try to make a longer cast, if you can make a smooth cast without backlashing at this point, you should be able to lower the brake to 5 and get enough distance to fish, the important thing to remember is you need to practice, you aren't going to learn to use that on the water, it just isn't going to work well trying to lean to cast and catch fish at the same time, it just leads to more frustration. You got a decent reel, the problem is a reel with centrifugal brakes would be easier to learn on as they help you at the beginning of a cast and that is where most backlashes occur, magnetic brakes work at the middle to end part of the cast. If you practice with it for a couple of hours each day, you should be able to fish pretty good within a week but I've watched guys get it quick and within an hour they were good to go and I've help others that took a few weeks to get it down, it depends on how bad you want to learn, if you really want to use a casting set up you will get it, if you really don't care, you will most likely end up frustrated if it takes a little time and just end up spinning. Give it an honest go, take your time and don't force it and once you have it down it is like riding a bike, you'll be able to pick any reel up and get it to work but you will have to learn about centrifugal braking which isn't hard once you learn with your reel.
Super helpful!!! Thank you!!!
On 4/30/2015 at 1:27 AM, offsidewing said:I taught myself how to use a bait caster in about an hour in the back yard. If I can do it, you can do it. Now, I was able to purposely choose my first gear, so I had that advantage. It was a Lews Speed Spool Tourney which has a true dual braking system and a Cabelas Tourney ZX rod (M, Mod Fast). I got some cheap 12lb mono (Trilene XL incidentally) and a 4-pack of 3/8 oz sinkers. All I watched was the two "how to" baitcaster videos here on Bass Resource and started slinging a 3/8 weight around the backyard.
The biggest piece of advice I can give is to make sure you load up the rod. Whatever bait you are using, let it hang 24-30 inches from the rod tip. This will help build flex in the rod and science take over from there. Make sure half of your centrifugal brakes are on and any external settings are set to halfway for starters. Spool tension knob is important too. The brakes control the spool the first half of the cast, the spool tension know the last half. But the important part for me was is loading up the rod and using two hands for a consistent sweeping cast. The next part is training your thumb. When in doubt, thumb it out. Thumb down on the spool if you feel uneasy about a cast.
I'm a hockey guy, so the best analogy I can come up with is a spinning rod and reel is like a wrist shot where you want to use strength and leverage to flex the heck out of the rod to 'shoot' the lure. The casting rod is like a snapshot or backhander where you have to bring the rod back to load it up some with the weight of the lure/bait.
Also, heed these words. Once you master the bait casting rod and reel - your wallet will empty. And it will stay empty. I have never witnessed anything like it in all my years on earth. #BaitMonkey
Thanks for the Advice! And nice hockey reference! It made a lot of sense! HAHA!
On 4/30/2015 at 1:27 AM, offsidewing said:I taught myself how to use a bait caster in about an hour in the back yard. If I can do it, you can do it. Now, I was able to purposely choose my first gear, so I had that advantage. It was a Lews Speed Spool Tourney which has a true dual braking system and a Cabelas Tourney ZX rod (M, Mod Fast). I got some cheap 12lb mono (Trilene XL incidentally) and a 4-pack of 3/8 oz sinkers. All I watched was the two "how to" baitcaster videos here on Bass Resource and started slinging a 3/8 weight around the backyard.
The biggest piece of advice I can give is to make sure you load up the rod. Whatever bait you are using, let it hang 24-30 inches from the rod tip. This will help build flex in the rod and science take over from there. Make sure half of your centrifugal brakes are on and any external settings are set to halfway for starters. Spool tension knob is important too. The brakes control the spool the first half of the cast, the spool tension know the last half. But the important part for me was is loading up the rod and using two hands for a consistent sweeping cast. The next part is training your thumb. When in doubt, thumb it out. Thumb down on the spool if you feel uneasy about a cast.
I'm a hockey guy, so the best analogy I can come up with is a spinning rod and reel is like a wrist shot where you want to use strength and leverage to flex the heck out of the rod to 'shoot' the lure. The casting rod is like a snapshot or backhander where you have to bring the rod back to load it up some with the weight of the lure/bait.
Also, heed these words. Once you master the bait casting rod and reel - your wallet will empty. And it will stay empty. I have never witnessed anything like it in all my years on earth. #BaitMonkey
I want to point out 1 thing with your advise to the OP, remember, he is learning so you have to understand that not all reels are the same so knowing what he is using is key to helping. His reel has magnetic brakes only, so your way of casting isn't going to help him, he needs to start slow and stay that way until he can do it on a low brake setting consistently before trying for longer distance. The reason for this is because the centrifugal brakes help at start up, he doesn't have that help like you had, he needs to learn to use his thumb first, not later. You aren't wrong and you offer good tips but having that much line out without knowing how to feather the spool is going to make it tough, he has a good reel but if is a mag brake set up which is usually better for more experienced casters but he will be better for learning on it.
Suggestions:
1. Open the side of the Lews and turn on all magnets. This means pulling up the little "T" shaped tabs.
2. Read the rod's specifications stamped on the rod.
3. Select the line of your choice within the rod's line test specs.
4. Using a Berkley spooling machine ($30 and worth it) put the fluorocarbon line on the spool holder so the line comes off the spool from the top.
5. Tie line to the reel's spool and taking a bathroom washcloth spray one spot on the washcloth with Kevin Van Dam's Lure and Line Conditioner. Make sure the area is soaked.
6. Run the line through the soaked area on the washcloth as you spool the line on the Lew's.
7. Be sure the drag is set tight and the spool tension knob is set tight when spooling.
8. Do as DVT says and put Scotch Tape or electrical tape from one side of the spool to the other on top of your line. You can't use too much tape so be sure to cover all of the line in one area. You do this by estimating when you have enough line to cast your bait.
9. Start respooling once again and make sure to leave about an eight of an inch of space from the top of the spool to the top of the line.
9. Staying within the rod's specifications, tie on the bait you want to throw.
10. Point rod tip to 11 AM and using the spool tension knob have the bait fall slowly to the floor and have the spool stop when the bait hits the floor.
You always point the rod tip to 11AM and drop the bait every time you change baits on a baitcaster.
Now, some other information for your consideration.
You may want to take your new reel to a professional who repairs rods and reels in your area and have him open the Lew's and make sure it has proper grease inside. Reels come from the factory with grease in them but hot weather and having them sit on the shelf can erode the grease.
Purchase some reel lube and put a little on the screw drive that moves the pawl and your line on the reel. Not a lot, but a little.
And NEVER EVER put grease on the outside of the reel. Grease goes inside the reel, only.
As for the magnets in the reel, as you practice casting you can reset them in an "X" manner to determine if this setup helps your distance. You can set the magnets any way you wish and you will have to experiment, especially with a Lew's' reel. Seems Lews' reels spools spin faster than other brands and the magnets will help slow down the spool's rate of speed.
With his set up and the line and bait within the rod's specifications go outside and practice casting. Keep your thumb on the line as it comes off the spool at first until you master the 11AM procedure. Once you get the 11AM procedure down the spool will stop when the bait hits the water.
Now you need to learn the various baitcaster casting methods, from overhand, sideways, underhand, etc. Find them on YouTube.
And you need to learn how to set the hook based on the baits you are throwing. Over the head or sideways.
One more tip: Never allow slack in the line when fighting a fish on a baitcaster. Just a little slack means the bass will throw the hook. Always keep your rod tip high and the line tight.
Now, how about a discussion on your reel's speed ratio..........
From your casting issues is say the tip is too stiff for your baits. That will always happen if there isn't enough weight to load the rod on the cast which gets the spool really moving.
I did the same thing with a MHXF Crucial. It just would not cast under 1/2oz.
^ nonsense. I throw 3/8oz jigs constantly with my 7'mh/f veritas and I could use that thing for punching mats. It may not be OPTIMAL for throwing that sized lure - but it surely CAN do it.
Its practice. That's all that's needed here.
OP- all the answers are right here in this thread. .... everything I was going to suggest has already been said.
1. Set up the reel properly ( your 65# braid or whatever was fine. ...espicially if you were going to use this rod for frogs- which it is fine for)
2. USE THE TAPE TRICK. This will cut down 95% of your frustration.
3. Practice PITCHING first to educate your thumb. No more swinging for the fences until you know you can reach them
4. Use a slightly heavier bait. You CAN throw lighter baits with your setup, like I said, but you will find it much easier to LEARN to cast using a heavier bait that is closer to the Max of the rod.
5. Do not give up. Once you have it down, you will never even want to use a spinning reel again.
6. Prepare to be broke. The baitmonkey is a ***.
Good luck!
K.I.S.S.
Set your reel up as per Glenn's video, then refer back to CVT's post. If the bait splashes down in front of you the release was late, if it launches up in the air the release was to early...it's that simple!
Educate your thumb to feel for back lashes by keeping your thumb about 1/64" above the spool feeling for loose coils of line & simply stop the cast with thumb!
On 4/30/2015 at 10:08 PM, Catt said:K.I.S.S.
Set your reel up as per Glenn's video, then refer back to CVT's post. If the bait splashes down in front of you the release was late, if it launches up in the air the release was to early...it's that simple!
Educate your thumb to feel for back lashes by keeping your thumb about 1/64" above the spool feeling for loose coils of line & simply stop the cast with thumb!
There you go! It is not rocket science, but it is a different skill set than you use when using a spinning or spincast reel. It is hard for some of us to relearn casting after years of doing it another way. Get over it! Learning to use a baitcaster well takes a little time and practice. It is a skill worth having so relax and enjoy the process.
You have a lot of good advice here. The only thing I would recommend is to start out learning the sidearm cast for one simple reason. and that is to avoid the one issue youre having. The bait splashing down in front of you. with a sidearm cast your left and right accuracy will suffer by either being early or late with the release but you wont get the birds nests that youre getting
On 4/30/2015 at 8:00 PM, Master Bait said:From your casting issues is say the tip is too stiff for your baits. That will always happen if there isn't enough weight to load the rod on the cast which gets the spool really moving.
I did the same thing with a MHXF Crucial. It just would not cast under 1/2oz.
I really wanna say this is the issue. I mean the rod hardly bends. I'll try to have a friend lend me a less stiff casting rod and I'll try it out then. Thanks!
On 4/30/2015 at 11:30 PM, Alpha Male said:You have a lot of good advice here. The only thing I would recommend is to start out learning the sidearm cast for one simple reason. and that is to avoid the one issue youre having. The bait splashing down in front of you. with a sidearm cast your left and right accuracy will suffer by either being early or late with the release but you wont get the birds nests that youre getting
Ok, will do! But the real issue isn't so much the birds nest. It's really casting distance. It just feels like my line is 'not' coming out smoothly. I spooled it in the same way as the line memory so I mean it should be good right?
I too think mastering different types of tackle is fun and important, which is why I'm trying out a baitcaster, but ugh it's frustrating at first...On 4/29/2015 at 11:23 PM, Delaware Valley Tackle said:For pure casting distance nothing beats properly setup spinning tackle. Some find baitcasting more accurate. I like the way casting gear handles heavy line and baits but you ca certainly setup spinning tackle to do the same. I feel like mastering different types of tackle is part of the fun and enhances the overall fishing experience, but it causes you more anxiety than it's worth stick with what you're comfortable with. BTW, a lot of people, myself included are right handed but prefer "lefty" casting reels.
Also, I thought baitcaster were supposed to cast farther than spinning gear. Not light lures, of course, but heavier lures, right?
All else being equal spinning gear casts further as there is no mechanical drag. 99% of the time accuracy is what will get you bites. Some guys use casting tackle as a winch to land fish but I don't recommend that from a reel longevity, effectiveness or sporting perspective, but it is an option. Stick with it and eventually everything will just start to click.
Boy do I remember these days ... My first setup was an Abu Garcia SilverMax combo I got in DSG. No matter how much research I did on line, lures, weight, balance etc. I totally sucked at using the baitcaster. It was downright infuriating how much line I went through (backlashes) until I was able to train myself how to use it properly. It took time and a lot of practice and now I have zero regrets with the time I spent.
Hang in there and good luck.
By the way ... I still have that SilverMax. It is still a part of my arsenal and I love it!!! It has some higher quality brothers and sisters BUT it's still my #1.
Do Not Try To Cast The Bait Far!!! Focus on a short, smooth cast. Don't load the rod. Just work on accuracy. Distance will come later.
Make sure you are following through with the rod. When I was teaching my wife to use a baitcaster, she had a tendency to stop the rod at or shortly after the point of release. This would do what you described and send the bait right into the ground on an overhand cast. Just like shooting a shotgun, don't stop to pull the trigger, swing through. Concentrate on being smooth and following through. Point your rod where you want the bait to land after the release.
On 5/1/2015 at 5:21 AM, paleus said:Make sure you are following through with the rod. When I was teaching my wife to use a baitcaster, she had a tendency to stop the rod at or shortly after the point of release. This would do what you described and send the bait right into the ground on an overhand cast. Just like shooting a shotgun, don't stop to pull the trigger, swing through. Concentrate on being smooth and following through. Point your rod where you want the bait to land after the release.
Hmm... I'm going out tomorrow morning to practice, so I will keep this in mind! Thanks!
My learning curve was much the same as yours. The video and dvt have given great advice. One tip the really helped me in the beginning, tighten the spool tension knob to the point the bait DOES NOT fall, but readily releases with the tiniest shake, it will probably stop on its own before hitting the floor. Nothing wrong with the rod, a whippier rod is going to exacerbate your problem, bedside its going to really load up and shoot the weight out. You're already having birdsnest, do u really want to speed up that spool at this point? Get some casting weights, you want about 3/4 of ounce max, you don't want the rod really loading yet. Now set the brakes on max and practice once u get the hang of the basics you'll be amazed how fast you'll progress. FWIW the rod I learned on was a 7 foot MH rod lure rating 1/4 to 1 1/2 ounce, trust me the rod isn't the problem.
The greatest thing I ever did was to cast my line as far as possible then walk out 20ft. Took a piece of electrical tape and put it on the spool. It helped me.
This throwing at the ground thing is going to happen until you get your thumb calibrated. You can tweak those breaks and knobs all you want but if your thumb Is off then its not going to do right. I can cast my reels with half break and the spool tension knob all the way off. Oh and make sure your drag is set right. I have had mine set way to tight and it threw off my cast.
It takes time but when you get it you'll be a happy camper
Lots of good advise on here.Pay special attention to the video and notice that Glenn has the reel handles pointing vertically at the beginning of his cast.Try to think of it as turning a door knob as you cast.Start the cast with reel handles up and end with reel handles facing horizontal.I got my first baitcaster when I was 13yro (red 5000 ambassadeur) and had no one to teach me so I feel your frustration.I am 60 now and have never regretted learning to cast one and I believe neither will you.Good luck and sooner or later you will understand what is meant by "educated thumb".
I learned to use a baitcaster when I was 5 or 6 years old. Those baitcasters had no free spool or anti-reverse. It was a bit of a chore but eventually I learned. Shortly thereafter, spinning tackle invaded the scene. Very few of my compatriots stuck with baitcasting tackle and soon switched over to that new-fangled spinning tackle from overseas (which certainly had many issues of its own at the time)..
Years later I again embraced baitcasting tackle (much improve over my original baitcasting tackle). It was like riding a bike, once you learn you never forget.
You have received a lot of excellent advice which serve you well in the learning process.
I'll give you a couple of pointers from my perspective.
I believe the rod you are using is probably handicapping your progress. As you learn to cast and become more proficient it will be less of an issue. In my experience very stiff, very fast rods have a narrow comfort zone in terms of lure weights to use effectively. A certain weight will be the sweet spot for that rod. If you go much above or below this weight, it feels like throwing a potato with a pitch fork. So I believe a rod with a more parabolic action would be advantageous to you during the learning process.
Secondly try to keep your rod tip moving in a straight line during the casting process (as opposed to a circular path). This simplifies getting your release point correct and produces more power with less effort.
Practice, practice, practice and you will soon be casting like a pro. Don't wait to go out to the lake to practice. Utilize your back yard, swimming pool if you have one, basement. Just be prepared for strange looks from your neighbors and the invariable comment, "Did you catch any yet?". As me why I know!
Good luck.
I can't add anything to what has already been posted. I do agree with shanksmare that a moderate action rod may help. Especially since you say backlashing isn't really a problem.....only distance. Not only will the rod load easier, but the softer action should help lessen the few backlashes you are getting with less than perfect casts. The few (very few) Abu rods I own are all under-rated. A 7'6" MHF rated for 3/8 to 1-1/4 oz. barely casts a 1/2 oz. lure what I consider a decent fishing distance......which is definitely less than 30 yards.
Have you been able to try another rod? Action designation isn't everything. My Powell Endurance 7'2" MH XF hurls a 1/2 oz. spinnerbait extremely well. So does my 7'2" MH regular action Tatula.
On 4/29/2015 at 9:23 PM, Catt said:DVT nailed it, uneducated thumb
I would say my(thumb) is retarded...lol
So had some time to practice today. Tried the reel handle up starting out then noticed I was just casting straight on(handle on the side). Was doing OK as long as it was within 50ft. Tried a pitch and flip a little, well I might want to come back to that another year...lol. I will give it a go next time I go fishing, if it don't work out I will post the coordinates for a free baitcaster after it goes in the lake. Lmao
On 4/29/2015 at 4:49 PM, Bostonstronggggg said:Any advice??? It's making me only want to use spinning gear for the rest of my life and never use a baitcaster again. I promise, it's not my casting. I'm not that bad/dumb at casting, but I have no idea what the problem could be.
Welcome to the world of real life baitcasters! No, you probably are not the problem. The problem is baitcasters in general. They all are pretty much lame compared to the effective spinning reel. Spinning reels work for the fisherman, they work and work very good. Baticasters on the other hand make a slave out of the fisherman. You have to pick the right line, the right rod, the right lure weight, the right lure aerodynamic (how it flies though the air), the right cast, you can't cast too hard or to light, etc... Remember, all the tournament fishermen on TV have twelve or more rods rigged up ready to go. They have the right rod with the right line for the lure. Plus TV usually does not show them dealing with a backlash (sometimes they do). Plus they have a nice big area to cast from.
But, if you do want to learn how to use one then go for it. Take your time. I would focus on one type of lure (like jigs or crank baits) and buy a rod specially for that style of lure and buy line specifically for that baitcaster, rod and lure. I bought a rod specifically for crank baits for my one baitcaster. Yeah, it works, sometimes. But it's still lame and does not work as good as my spinning reels. After two or three outings this spring in my kayak with my baitcaster I've retired it again for the rest of the year, just like I did last year. I've come to realize it's not me and hardly ever me, it's the design of the baitcaster, it's a stupid awkward design surpassed by the spinning reel.
On 5/3/2015 at 9:44 AM, hoosierbass07 said:Welcome to the world of real life baitcasters! No, you probably are not the problem. The problem is baitcasters in general. They all are pretty much lame compared to the effective spinning reel. Spinning reels work for the fisherman, they work and work very good. Baticasters on the other hand make a slave out of the fisherman. You have to pick the right line, the right rod, the right lure weight, the right lure aerodynamic (how it flies though the air), the right cast, you can't cast too hard or to light, etc... Remember, all the tournament fishermen on TV have twelve or more rods rigged up ready to go. They have the right rod with the right line for the lure. Plus TV usually does not show them dealing with a backlash (sometimes they do). Plus they have a nice big area to cast from.
But, if you do want to learn how to use one then go for it. Take your time. I would focus on one type of lure (like jigs or crank baits) and buy a rod specially for that style of lure and buy line specifically for that baitcaster, rod and lure. I bought a rod specifically for crank baits for my one baitcaster. Yeah, it works, sometimes. But it's still lame and does not work as good as my spinning reels. After two or three outings this spring in my kayak with my baitcaster I've retired it again for the rest of the year, just like I did last year. I've come to realize it's not me and hardly ever me, it's the design of the baitcaster, it's a stupid awkward design surpassed by the spinning reel.
LOL
X2On 5/3/2015 at 9:53 AM, new2BC4bass said:LOL
On 5/3/2015 at 10:04 AM, John G said:X2
X3. Funniest post I've read in a long time.
Boston, I'm new at baitcasters although I have a medium priced shamanno that I bought 10+ years ago but hardly used it. I also have the Lews you have and a few other reels. I have spent many hours practicing in the yard and still I'm not satisfied with the distance and I get some birds nests also.
I'm not going to give you advice except to practice in the yard. Heavier weight is also helpful and I find having the brakes set at a low #3 works best for me, you have to experiment.
My son, he has never used a baitcaster and pickes one up. I show him how to adjust it to the lure and he proceeds to make 25-30 perfect casts. So I think problem is we actually try too hard!
Stay with it.
On 5/3/2015 at 10:13 AM, K_Mac said:X3. Funniest post I've read in a long time.
X4. I thought he was being sarcastic at first...
This is the only video you need to watch if you want to learn about the real nature of baitcasters. It's a classic. And don't pay attention to the guy talking but the guy in back.
On 5/4/2015 at 12:52 PM, bassr95 said:X4. I thought he was being sarcastic at first...
X5. Good stuff! !!
Hey Hoosier, feel free to send that pos baitcaster to me. ....I don't even care what brand it is.
On 4/29/2015 at 4:49 PM, Bostonstronggggg said:I've recently picked up my first baitcasting setup and have been frustrated of recently. I got a Lew's Speed Spool LFS on sale for $69.99
http://www.lews.com/casting-speedspool.php
AND
An Abu Garcia Veritas 2.0 7'0" MH/F Micro Guide. It was a gift and I just noticed the micro guides...
But anyways,
I've read all about baitcasters, watched a million videos on how to set one up, adjusting the spool tension knob for each lure, brake systems, ect... BUT when I go to cast (i started with a side arm cast), my lure with go 15-20 feet at the most... And when I cast over hand, the lure with goes like straight into the water 10 feet ahead of me and I'll get a huge birds nest... I, first, spooled it with 50# power pro for frog fishing (5/8 ounce frog!) and thought, maybe it's too heavy of a line for a micro guide rod, and then I spooled it with 15# braid and got the exact same result...
I'm not whipping it like I would a spinning rod (even tho i tried that), I'm smoothly casting it and have no idea why I can't get any distance... Do I need to oil/grease up a new reel? It seemed to be over oiled when I got it.
Also, one thing to point out is, the guides on my rod seem to be 'not' perfectly straight. Could that be the issue? They seem to be leaning left.
Any advice??? It's making me only want to use spinning gear for the rest of my life and never use a baitcaster again. I promise, it's not my casting. I'm not that bad/dumb at casting, but I have no idea what the problem could be.
Nothing wrong with spinning gear esp for smaller lures and they certainly have their place.
I gave up on baitcasters after birdnests started costing me precious line & time on the water and thusly fish.. I said I dont have the patience nor time to become a freespooling freak expert I need to catch fish now..
I can tell you the rod and the lure have to work together. If the weight is good I can do beautiful long underarm cast with my bait caster and sometimes when I have a perfect match of rod to weight of lure I can take off both brakes and cast a mile, just letting my thumb feel the spool. But because I use a 7' MH rod if the weight gets too heavy the tip will snap on me and make a mess. The only way I can stop that is tighten down on the spool brake and thus I get short casts. And I have to do sidearm or overhead casts. But anytime you are using a bait caster you should never put muscle into a cast, do a smooth cast and let the lure do the work for you.
^^^^^^ that is true to an extent. Especially good advice for just starting out.
Buy it trully is a practice makes perfect thing. .... you will eventually get to where matching line ans lure and rod matter less and less in casting, and more in presentation and overall comfort. I regularly two handed , overhead cast a spook Jr on a 7' mh/f rod sitting down on my kayak and get 20-30yds. I need that size rod for the fish I'm catching- not the lure I'm throwing.
You can do it OP- it really is just spending time learning and gaining experience.
On 5/10/2015 at 3:21 AM, kikstand454 said:^^^^^^ that is true to an extent. Especially good advice for just starting out.
Buy it trully is a practice makes perfect thing. .... you will eventually get to where matching line ans lure and rod matter less and less in casting, and more in presentation and overall comfort. I regularly two handed , overhead cast a spook Jr on a 7' mh/f rod sitting down on my kayak and get 20-30yds. I need that size rod for the fish I'm catching- not the lure I'm throwing.
You can do it OP- it really is just spending time learning and gaining experience.
The above really sums it up well. I use both baitcast and spinning regularly, but I enjoy BC more for most techniques. For most of us a baitcaster is simply the right tool for the job. For me the occasional backlash is less of a problem than some of the line handling issues associated with spinning. Add to that BC ability to handle heavy line (in a smaller, lighter reel) and it really is an easy choice FOR ME.
You may choose one or the other, but there simply is no good argument for the superiority of one over the other in all situations IMO.
I just want to say thanks for all the good advice and videos on this forum. I too am a life long spinning reel guy that wanted to try something different and bought a bait casting set up this year. I tried it a few times and got very frustrated with the backlashes, lack of distance and control. After reading this thread and looking at the video, I have been practicing in the backyard for a few hours each day and I am now getting it.
I'm getting the technique down and am getting more distance, better precision and only a rare backlash. I am determined to get good at this, and the help from this forum has been the reason that I am off to a good start.
People watch golfers or someone that is good at something and they think it's easy. It only looks easy because they are using proper technique and they have practiced at it.
I will keep practicing until I can easily cast from the seat of my kayak, but at least now I am encouraged to know I will eventually will be able to do it.
Nice post cutbait. I'm glad you are sticking to the bait caster. As you can see it takes practice for a newbee. Some folks get it quickly and others may take longer. Also your thumb will get educated and that can help. Whether you do a side, overhead, or underhand, you must let the lure do the pulling off of your line. Always keep a cast smooth and don't put a lot of muscle in it. I believe the side and overhead are the easiest to master but I believe the underhand is the most accurate. I love a bait caster and wish everyone could experience the enjoyment when you master it. Remember -- You won't miss the line twists and all back lashes can be quickly picked out. You also want to become a master at quickly picking out a back lash
I wouldn't suggest a first time caster staring off with BRAID o any kind. There are a host of issues in doing that
Take off the braid and save it.
Re spool with monofilament. yozuri Hybrid is a good choice, in a medium test( (10-16 lb)
That way if you backlash you can remove it and try again.
Just one suggestion before you go on about the rod and reel.
I am using 12# Triline xl and so far I'm just practicing and getting good with the cast from the side. More wrist action for me now is making a difference vs. the over the top forearm and shoulder motion I started with. Before I followed the tips and video, I got some major backlashes. The mono line made getting these out more manageable. I can only imagine how hard it would be to unravel braid from a major backlash.
I assure you it is a piece of cake.On 6/15/2015 at 4:08 AM, cutbait said:I can only imagine how hard it would be to unravel braid from a major backlash.
On 6/15/2015 at 2:58 AM, Silas said:I wouldn't suggest a first time caster staring off with BRAID o any kind. There are a host of issues in doing that
Take off the braid and save it.
Re spool with monofilament. yozuri Hybrid is a good choice, in a medium test( (10-16 lb)
That way if you backlash you can remove it and try again.
Just one suggestion before you go on about the rod and reel.
I suppose I will never understand why people think a mono is better to learn on over braid. I can't think of any advantages over braid. Maybe at one point in learning the smoothness of it might help with distance but to start the rough texture of braid really let's you feel the spool spinning.
If someone has a reason why it is better to learn with let me know. If your reason is for a backlash then that's nonsense and braid is still superior.
I totally agree.On 6/15/2015 at 2:28 PM, hatrix said:I suppose I will never understand why people think a mono is better to learn on over braid. I can't think of any advantages over braid. Maybe at one point in learning the smoothness of it might help with distance but to start the rough texture of braid really let's you feel the spool spinning.
If someone has a reason why it is better to learn with let me know. If your reason is for a backlash then that's nonsense and braid is still superior.
I bought this same reel about a month ago when i first started learning how to use a baitcaster and I had 50# power pro on and paired it with a duckett ghost 7'3" H/F micro guide and I struggled at first, and had a lot of bad backlashes but I tightened down the star drag a lot and turned up the magforce brake about 3/4 of the way up and adjust the spool tension accordingly for every lure I use and I started making very smooth and long casts with no backlashes and I've bought 2 other baitcasters since and I haven't had a problem with either of them.
I enjoy hearing stories about anglers mastering the bait caster.
I don't remmember if this tip is earlier in the thread. .... but if you pull a long casts worth of line out and place a small piece of tape across your reel..... you will save yourself the headaches/cost/ frustration of epic backlashes. You will instead have " professional overruns" that you can practice the " thumb trick" with and easily get back to casting.