The newest industry darling is fluorocarbon line, the marketing of this line has been so successful that anglers are buying the line in record numbers and using it for every fishing application even those it is unsuitable for. If you don't believe that most of the reason people using this line is marketing, just look at your local sporting goods store. How many underspins are on the shelves now compared to February, never mind that Ashley won on a homemade lure, the fishing industry are going to exploit this to their advantage. The same is true with lines, why aggressively market the most inexpensive line, when you can dupe the market into buying the most expensive? With the exception of NASCAR anglers are the victims of most questionable marketing schemes, its not about getting the best product in your hands, its about what is going to make them the most money. Just look at 2014 classic, Livingston is still pushing the Howler, even though footage clearly shows he caught the majority of his fish on a Rapala. The market has been gobbling up every marketing myth and passing it along as fact, we see on this board numerous questions and myths being passed along as truth, this is not done intentionally but rather by well intended anglers who are misinformed. Today it is hard to separate fact from fiction concerning this line. The purpose of this thread is to shed light on the truths about fluorocarbon line and why it is not the cure all magic bullet that many think it is. I am going to list references at the end all at once.
What is fluorocarbon? What are its physical properties? Weaknesses? Strengths? These are some of the questions we will explore.
Fluorocarbon line is a fluoropolymer, what is that? A fluoropolymer is a fluorobarbon based polymer made up of carbon and fluorine, it exhibits multiple strong carbon-fluorine bonds. It is characterized by a high resistance to solvents, acids, and bases. You can readily see that this polymer has many applications and fishing line was a happenstance that was championed by two employees of the Kureha Corporation in Japan. Its first applications were as insulators in wiring, as film in capacitors and because of its resistance to UV rays an additive to paints. Fluorocarbon line is made of PVDF. PVDF is a specialty plastic material in the fluoropolymer family; it is used generally in applications requiring the highest purity, strength, and resistance to solvents, acids, bases and heat and low smoke generation during a fire event. The story of how this remarkable fluoropolymer became fishing line can be found here http://www.seaguar.com/about-seaguar.html
Other characteristics are that the polymer is crystalline in structure and possesses high density and has strong piezoelectricity properties. Basically that means it can take physical force and transmit that as electrical current when under strain. These three properties is what make fluorocarbon line so sensitive. But it comes at a cost, the worse being that it is brittle when compared to nylon, it deforms when stretched and weakens, kink it and it is broken only the outer shell is holding it together. Fluorocarbon line shares more properties of glass that it does to nylon.
Myth 1 Fluorocarbon does not stretch or stretches less than mono: this statement is incorrect, tests have shown that fluorocarbon line does stretch and many times depending on brand it stretches more than mono. Now the really bad news, fluorocarbon does not recover from being stretched, and in fact it weakens the line dramatically. Mono on the other hand being a nylon thread recovers from being stretched and retains it strength. So what does this mean to the angler? Any time you catch a fish, get hung up on the bottom and break off the line, pull the line free from being hung up; set the hook, you are inadvertently weakening the line. Not a good thing
Myth 2 Fluorocarbon is invisible underwater especially when compared to mono this claim is hard to prove or disprove. For one we do not know how fish see, but from tests that have been published the difference in the visibility factor from nylon mono to fluorocarbon is slight to non-exisistant. For those who want to know, the refractive index of water is 1.333 Fluoro is 1.42 nylon mono in clear ranges from 1.53 to 1.62 the difference mathematically is extremely slight. Of more importance is how we use the line, many anglers will fish a larger diameter line when fishing fluoro, why not it's nearly invisible right? Here is the problem, increases of line diameter also increases line drag which increases vibrations put off by the line passing through the water. This increase in vibration will be felt through the fish's lateral line, making it more detectable. So it really is a toss up, but the refractive index of the lines are so close that this is a moot point.
Myth 3 Fluoro is stronger than nylon mono for its diameter size, this is not true, the published line diameters and testing results categorically prove this false. Example Berkley Trilene XL 10 lbs test line diameter is .011 Seaguar Fluoro lines 10 line is .012 diameter.
Myth 4 Superior knot strength Really? Please, the palomar knot retains 98% of line's rated knot strength when tying nylon mono and only 72% when used with Fluoro, the best tested not for fluoro was the improved clinch at only 78%, To keep the math simple it breaks down like this using 10lb test mono will break at 9.8lbs using the palomar, fluoro 7.2lbs.
About the only claims that manufacturers of fluorocarbon make that are true are abrasion resistance, sink rate and UV resistance. Let's talk about these and see what the trade offs are.
Abrasion resistance, the most abrasion resistant lines are stiff because of the hardness of the line, the memory is greater which makes the line harder to manage, but that can be dealt with using KVD line and lure conditioner. The real trade of comes in line strength, brittleness and poor knot strength. The harder the fluoro the more condense the crystalline bond, what this translates to is a line that is easily broken. Kink line like this and it is as good as cut, but the problem is that you don't see it, but as soon as the line comes under a load and snap the outer shell breaks and there goes your fish.. Stretch this line and it is weakened by at least 50% as documented by published tests. Anyone who has been in the Navy or Coast Guard can tell you how stretchy nylon is. Put a 5 inch line under load until it breaks and it snaps back like a rubber band destroying everything in its path. Nylon can stretch and recover without any loss of strength, stretch a hard fluoro and the crystalline structure fragments, the line is disfigured many times. But here is the problem, if your line stretches and becomes thinner can you really tell while on the water, we are talking about hundreds to thousandths of an inch. The entire length of line is compromised but you can't see it.Softer more supple fluorocarbons are available but then you loose the abrasion resistance advantage, the line is no more resistant to abrasion than your typical nylon mono.
Sink rate. Fluoro is denser than nylon and sinks 3 times faster, no offset in performance. Except it makes this line useless with topwater baits like Spooks, sammys, poppers or any floating presentation. Great for deep water presentation of jigs, worms etc, less line bow but again it is so slight to be negligible in real world applications.
UV resistant. Again fluoro is almost impervious to UV rays so yes its better than mono in this category. But lets take a moment are really see how this plays out. Mono starts breaking down after being exposed for 100 to 300 hours, do you leave your stuff laying around in the sun without moving it for 5 days? Then the only part of the line that is compromised is the top layer of line on the reel and the line going through the guides. If you are actually using the rod then the line exposure to the sun doesn't cause any degradation to the line. It is in movement and being submerged etc. So unless you are laying your rods out in the sun for 5 days at a time this is a moot point. Add to the argument that the line that is exposed is constantly being trimmed when switching out baits and retying your line you quickly realize that this supposed benefit does not equate to added performance of the line.
Now lets consider some other factors, I'll start with weight. Since fluoro is denser it also weighs more, which results in higher force needed to get the spool rotating, which only adds to the problem of the line being stiff and harder to manage. On average fluoro weighs 75% more than mono, so on a reel's spool the weight added requires more force to start and stop rotation.
Fluoro is stiffer than nylon mono, this is due to the cellular make up of the line. I keep going back to this because it can not be overstated. Because of its cellular make up the line is brittle, which results in weaker knots. Add to this the fact that the line does not "bounce back" after being stretched but weakens and I start questioning the use of fluoro for anything besides a short leader. Due to the fact that a kink actually breaks the line and it makes no sense to put it on a reel, its going to kink, crush and deform.
I also want to touch on knot strength again. You hear people state over and over to tie your knots carefully especially when using fluoro, people automatically assume it is because of the line's stiffness and you don't want to deform your line while tying a knot. However more importantly is fluoro's low burning temp, tighten a knot with out spitting on it and you will scorch the line. Tie a palomar with fluoro, don't lubricate it, cinch it down tight, now look where the standing line goes into the knot, see that little crushed spot? It's not crushed, its burnt and it will break right there on a hook set.
Sensitivity; due to the density of the line and crystalline structure of fluoro it transmits vibration nicely, or in other words its more sensitive than mono. But how much is a very subjective thing. Another element adding to sensitivity is closed cell construction, fluoro is very water resistant sure it absorbs water but only microscopic amounts, nylon mono soaks up allot of water, which is why almost all tests conducted on mono has to be conducted on line that has been soaked. The open cell construction of mono also lends itself to loosing vibration to the water column before you can register it.
In conclusion what is the angler to do? Mono has its drawbacks, and fluoro has allot too. In my mind the answer is simple use a hybrid line, by this I mean a line that is composed of fluorocarbon and nylon that is combined at the molecular level and not just a mono that is coated with fluoro. A line that has closed cell construction so sensitivity is amplified, a line that stretches and bounces back without compromising integrity, a line that is denser than mono but not so dense that it interferes with lure presentation. In short a line that gives you the best qualities of nylon and fluoro and none of the negatives. That's a tall order but there is a line that meets these requirements and anyone who has been a member of this site for very long already knows what it is, the only line that is currently marketed as a hybrid line, Yo-Zuri Hybrid. There may be others on the market, I truly do not know. Most lines are marketed as a copoly, and there is no real definition to that, is it a line that has a core of mono and a fluoro coating? Honestly it is useless as a improvement to either type of line. Actually most lines are a copolymer, what I mean by that is the lines are a mixture of two different types of nylon;marketed as a copoly or a mixture of different fluorocarbons. This is how they make lines that have more abrasion resistance or a line that is softer, etc. So what you are looking for is a hybrid line, where the fluoro and the nylon are mixed on a molecular level to give you the best properties of each without sacrificing performance. Of course you could always go with a braided mainline with different leaders and do just fine. But the problem there is where the lines join, because there isn't a leader knot that retains 50% of the original line's strength. Your 30lb braid mainline tied to a 20lb fluoro leader will break at 10lbs, just the nature of the beast. So good luck in choosing the line for you.
EDIT: After reading Tim Kelly's post and being reminded of the FG knot, I need to redact my original post to read. When using a braid mainline and fluoro leader consider tying the FG knot. This knot which really isn't a traditional knot provides the angler with the best knot available. It is ultra thin and retains at least 98%of the original line's strength. Tutorial on the knot here
https://youtu.be/pjzUb5QRKuk
Sources:
http://www.tackletour.com/reviewfluorocarbontest.html
http://www.tackletour.com/reviewfluorocarbon2.html
http://www.bigindianabass.com/big_indiana_bass/the-truth-about-fluorocarbon.html
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fluoropolymer
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polyvinylidene_fluoride
http://www.seaguar.com/about-seaguar.html
http://www.seaguar.com/applications/myths.html
http://www.seaguar.com/applications/faqs.html
Retiredbosn,
Quite a long read there and hopefully I get the point. Don't believe the hype?
Don't forget about fluro sinks and nylon floats, the density helps that.
Like I said before, don't believe what the box tells you and what the pros rep about it cause they are being paid to promote it. Regardless of why they use it they still repeat what it says on the box.
While fluoro is a pain to use it definitely has advantages which are worth putting up with in my view for certain presentations. I like it for drop shot and any presentation where you are fishing semi slack. Without a doubt the density of the line makes it feel different in these situations. Mono works great in a lot of situations, though the stretchiness makes it less useful if you're fishing long casts as the hooksets are more difficult. Braid has advantages when fishing at range, in vegetation or with topwaters due to it's properties of floating, no stretch and the ability to cut through soft vegetation. It is hopeless in wood or around sharp rocks or mussels though as it has no resistance to the rocks or mussels and digs into wood. BTW, if you tie an FG knot to join the braid to the leader it is easily a 100% knot and the leader will break before the knot every time.
There's no point being anti FC as it has it's place, just like the other line types do. Whether the benefits outweigh the disadvantages to you personally is something you can only decide by trying all the line types out.
Jimmy Houston, Bill Dance and a handful of other pros are already hawking copolymer line from Hi Seas.
sink rate is exactly the reason why i use fc for plastics & jigs.
I try flouro from time to time, but I always find myself going back to braid or braid + leader.
Nice work Boats.
After reading your most in depth thread here, I felt this would add a little value. There is no doubt that I enjoy and allow myself to be persuaded by the fishing industries marketing & advertising efforts. And by & large most claims made have a fairly small amount of truth. But I'm OK with it in most cases knowing that there is no magic bullet and that any benefit I derive from a product is going to depend on my ability to utilize it's proper application & use.
What you have described here, may be more in the way of Propaganda than Advertising, although these days the two are often hard to tell apart.
Marketing Basics
Marketing is a broad business function that involves the activities included in developing and communicating messages promising value to customers, clients and the community. It is much broader in scope than advertising, and also includes public relations and other forms of business communication with the public. Marketing processes often begin with market research to learn about the marketplace, which results in the development of marketing objectives, strategies, message formation and delivery.
Advertising Basics
As noted, advertising is more specific than marketing. A company's advertising plan is typically included within its marketing plan. Advertising is a paid message delivered through a mass medium that attempts to persuade the target market to learn about a brand, like it or go out and purchase it. It is the paid-for element of ad messages that separates them from public relations, which does not involve the purchase of media space and time.
Propaganda Basics
Propaganda is communication that promotes a particular idea or way of thinking. Its message can include facts or deception; in either case, its intent is to persuade the audience to buy in to the message-sender's point of view. As it relates to business, propaganda is more subtle. A company may participate in the delivery of a message that supports its purpose, but that does not directly reveal the business' involvement.
A-Jay
Enjoyed the informative read, thanks for sharing your thoughts and opinions about fluorocarbon as a fishing line. Like most others here, I've tried braid (PP, Fireline, 832), mono (Tectan), copolymers (too many), and fluorocarbon (mostly Sunline) and braid/fluoro leader. There is no perfect line for all fishing situations. No question braid manages better than other lines especially on spinning reels. Braid is the strongest line for its diameter. Braid excels in grass fishing and it floats unlike mono or fluoro. But it's the least invisible. Thus the braid/leader marriage.
Yes, straight fluoro is a pain to use but the way I see it, trout/steelhead anglers have used it as leader material and we 'assume' trout are more line-shy than bass. Saltwater anglers have been using fluorocarbon much longer than bass anglers and they deal with much bigger and tougher fish than bass (greater abrasion resistance). And I think we can all agree that flats fishing (ultraclear, shallow water) for bonefish is probably the most difficult thing to do stealth-wise. Finally, Aaron Martens has been one of the most vocal proponents of fluorocarbon line and I dare you to find a more successful pro bass angler the past 5 years. My rookie opinion is if one wants a single fishing line that can combine the the best characteristics of mono and fluoro and is low cost then yes, a copoly like YZH (which I use and love) is the one to choose. But, if one wants to gain every possible edge or advantage in fooling a bass then why not use the characteristics of fluorocarbon line to your advantage? No reason not to utilize every possible advantage as long as it doesn't end up costing too much time and money.
A-Jay brings up very important points about the fishing industry (and others) and marketing to we anglers. A great example - the Senko. Every company has a knockoff. Yes, the original Senko still costs more than the others. But nothing and I mean nothing works better than the GYCB Senko. Same with fluorocarbon line manufacturers. We all know many attempts (pick a company) are less than optimal and the consensus "best" (as of now Tatsu), which I haven't yet fished with is also the most expensive. That is where we as consumers need to figure out what is propaganda and what is true marketing of a product. Spend your hard-earned dollars wisely and don't judge a product based solely on knock-offs that don't represent the real deal.
Nice work! Good read...
Regarding Tim Kelly's post, I can't believe I forgot the FG knot. By far the strongest line to leader knot and easy to tie. Thanks for adding that.
That why any smart fisherman will use all lines for different applications. I have braid on my frog rod, punching rod, swimjig rod, and Alabama rig rod. Mono in my top water rod. CXX on my spinnerbait rod, squarebill rod, and less rod. Floro on my mod depth crank rod, 3 deep diving crank rods, jig rod, trig rod, Crig rod, shaky head rod, and a few mutli purpose rods. I like floro, but I know it's not the perfect line for all situations.
On 5/12/2015 at 11:57 AM, retiredbosn said:But the problem there is where the lines join, because there isn't a leader knot that retains 50% of the original line's strength. Your 30lb braid mainline tied to a 20lb fluoro leader will break at 10lbs, just the nature of the beast. So good luck in choosing the line for you.
Is this based on a steady pull or a "snap" type pull? Sorry I didn't go through and read all of the sources and tests.
Sorry, just read Tim Kelly's post, about the 100%. my mistake, I don't like to delete posts though!
Interesting read. I moved away from Flouro mainly because of cost alone. I'll tie it to braid as a leader on my spinning rods but all but one of my baitcasters are spooled with copolymer. My Frog rod has all braid. I do believe flouro has its place but I also believe that there is a lot of hype that comes along with it.
Well written post, very informative and nice to have all that information in one spot to pass on to the fluorocarbon fanatics I regularly fish with. The deforming (and losing break strength issue) is the primary reason I do not use flourocarbon. It is either that or I am too old a dog to learn new tricks . They will probably have to bury me with a spool of Trilene XT monofilament for fishing in the next life.
"That's why any smart fisherman will use all lines for different applications."
This is true, but 3 years ago 8 of my 12 rods were strung up with fluorocarbon. Today I have 1 rod that I use for drop-shotting with fluorocarbon as a main line. I have 2 others that I use braid as a main line and have a fluorocarbon leader. The other 9 rods are either co-poly or mono.
Why the big change for me? #1) Fluorocarbon stretches more than mono or co-polymers and I can't stand setting the hook with a rubber band. #2) Its a tangly PIA even with line conditioners, pre-stretching etc. Is it really worth the extra hassle? #3) I have found the overall strength of the fluorocarbon line to be lower than mono/co-poly... not just knot strength but overall line strength.
For those of you that saw my line stretch test I posted recently, it seems to back up #'s 1 and 3 above. #2 is anecdotal, but I think most people agree it has a higher rate of rats nests, loops, coils, etc. Expense is #4 to me... if it really were a superior line - yes, I would pay more for it.
-Fry
On 5/12/2015 at 9:07 PM, fishindad said:
Finally, Aaron Martens has been one of the most vocal proponents of fluorocarbon line and I dare you to find a more successful pro bass angler the past 5 years. My rookie opinion is if one wants a single fishing line that can combine the the best characteristics of mono and fluoro and is low cost then yes, a copoly like YZH (which I use and love) is the one to choose. But, if one wants to gain every possible edge or advantage in fooling a bass then why not use the characteristics of fluorocarbon line to your advantage? No reason not to utilize every possible advantage as long as it doesn't end up costing too much time and money.
Great post Retiredbosn, Thanks, I have gone to 10 lb cxx or15 lb mean green on all but one of my baitcasters. Braid on my heavy pitching stick and either braid or a light cxx on my spinning. I used floro for a few years but it's durability was my problem. I do not cast conservatively and I will backlash every now and then. Weakness put into the floro from the small kinks was my biggest issue. I can understand why some fisherman can be more successful with floro, fishindad hit that. For this fishing Dad it doesn't fit my style or budget. My next line purchase will be Yo Zuri copoly, there is just to many good things said on this forum not to give it a try.
I started using fluorocarbon a long time ago. Using it for bass fishing is a relatively recent thing. We used fluoro leaders for salmon and trout both in float and drift with pin or spin tackle, and for fly fishing. It was also starting to catch on in pike and musky fishing. It was clear, tough, and sank. Clearer than wire, almost as tough, and didn’t float a small fly. It came in small spools usually something like 25 yards for $10 TO $25, depending on the size. Sounds EXPENSIVE? Yep. But you only used a few feet at a time, and the salt guys swore by it, so…I, and many others looked for applications in our fishing where it would be an improvement.
This leader wasn’t appropriate for reel fill at all. I think this is where fluoro got its reputation for poor handling. It’s no exaggeration to say the leader material would fly off the spool. It wasn’t meant to be put on a spool. It was used for the business end, while the main line was traditional nylon line, or more recently, braided or fused microfilament line.
Eventually, line makers started making reel fill. Actually, I think I read that they tried selling this stuff as long as 40 years ago, so there might be a bit of prejudice and bias there, too. Reel fill makers tried to address the issue of handling on a small diameter spool, and casting by softening the formula. I have no idea how – co-fluorocarbons, copolymers, whatever they did, it wasn’t a standard thing. The different products vary greatly in their characteristics widely – much more widely than the four or five “mono” lines we became familiar with as bass anglers.
Truth, lies, fact, fiction, marketing, propaganda… This I know: there are few different things I do to catch bass, and fluoro – specifically, InvisX and Tatsu fit the program. I can say the same for braid like Power Pro, Hevi-Core, and 832, fused lines like Supercast, and so called copolymers, like CXX. Note, there is no traditional “mono” in that list. I’m rarely specific about brand recommendations, but line choice is so personal, and the selections so varied, I’m adamant about sharing what I use, how I use it, and why it’s working for me.
To make any declaration about any line in general terms is irrelevant and possibly uninformed to the point of being ignorant. But, if you tell me you tried, and it didn’t fit your program – how YOU catch bass, then I believe you and there is no room for debate. Only sharing experience remains. There’s some interesting things distilled in this thread, but nothing that sheds any new light on the topic to the point that I’m rethinking my line choices. I certainly don’t feel duped by using what I use – to the contrary – it’s the best system I’ve come up with to date. That’s always subject to change.
Good post. I've tried fluorocarbon of and on the last three years and I come to the same conclusion - this stuff is trash compared to mono. I don't know what the fishing pros are smoking (I guess lots of money from their sponsors) but all the fluorocarbon line and fluorocarbon coated line have felt lame compared to strong and dependable mono. I do have one reel with braid on it with a fluoro leader Iv'e been using for Texas rigs and it is sensitive but I get the feeling it's sensitive more from the braid than the fluoro leader.
On 5/13/2015 at 1:47 AM, J Francho said:To make any declaration about any line in general terms is irrelevant and possibly uninformed to the point of being ignorant. But, if you tell me you tried, and it didn’t fit your program – how YOU catch bass, then I believe you and there is no room for debate. Only sharing experience remains. There’s some interesting things distilled in this thread, but nothing that sheds any new light on the topic to the point that I’m rethinking my line choices. I certainly don’t feel duped by using what I use – to the contrary – it’s the best system I’ve come up with to date. That’s always subject to change.
Experience is the plumb line, IMO.
I agree with this last paragraph, John.
To use a post-modern term, everything
is relative to you and your experiences.
And "always subject to change."
What works for me may not work in the
same manner for you...and so on...
On 5/12/2015 at 6:46 PM, the reel ess said:Jimmy Houston, Bill Dance and a handful of other pros are already hawking copolymer line from Hi Seas.
I would too, if they were paying me to. The fact that a celebrity or a pro endorses something, doesn't mean it's better. I've seen sponsored tournament anglers use baits, rods and line that weren't their sponsor's because winning was more important at the time.
On 5/13/2015 at 1:47 AM, J Francho said:I started using fluorocarbon a long time ago. Using it for bass fishing is a relatively recent thing. We used fluoro leaders for salmon and trout both in float and drift with pin or spin tackle, and for fly fishing. It was also starting to catch on in pike and musky fishing. It was clear, tough, and sank. Clearer than wire, almost as tough, and didn’t float a small fly. It came in small spools usually something like 25 yards for $10 TO $25, depending on the size. Sounds EXPENSIVE? Yep. But you only used a few feet at a time, and the salt guys swore by it, so…I, and many others looked for applications in our fishing where it would be an improvement.
This leader wasn’t appropriate for reel fill at all. I think this is where fluoro got its reputation for poor handling. It’s no exaggeration to say the leader material would fly off the spool. It wasn’t meant to be put on a spool. It was used for the business end, while the main line was traditional nylon line, or more recently, braided or fused microfilament line.
Eventually, line makers started making reel fill. Actually, I think I read that they tried selling this stuff as long as 40 years ago, so there might be a bit of prejudice and bias there, too. Reel fill makers tried to address the issue of handling on a small diameter spool, and casting by softening the formula. I have no idea how – co-fluorocarbons, copolymers, whatever they did, it wasn’t a standard thing. The different products vary greatly in their characteristics widely – much more widely than the four or five “mono” lines we became familiar with as bass anglers.
Truth, lies, fact, fiction, marketing, propaganda… This I know: there are few different things I do to catch bass, and fluoro – specifically, InvisX and Tatsu fit the program. I can say the same for braid like Power Pro, Hevi-Core, and 832, fused lines like Supercast, and so called copolymers, like CXX. Note, there is no traditional “mono” in that list. I’m rarely specific about brand recommendations, but line choice is so personal, and the selections so varied, I’m adamant about sharing what I use, how I use it, and why it’s working for me.
To make any declaration about any line in general terms is irrelevant and possibly uninformed to the point of being ignorant. But, if you tell me you tried, and it didn’t fit your program – how YOU catch bass, then I believe you and there is no room for debate. Only sharing experience remains. There’s some interesting things distilled in this thread, but nothing that sheds any new light on the topic to the point that I’m rethinking my line choices. I certainly don’t feel duped by using what I use – to the contrary – it’s the best system I’ve come up with to date. That’s always subject to change.
how's the hevi-core workin for u? i would love to find a good sinking braid for spinning tackle
I have popped many fish off on the hook-set with a FC leader on braid mainline. Always broke at the lure. Went to a copoly leader. No problem. Wish I had those fish back!
My two cents on this.....
I use line for what I feel is it's best intended purpose. My general rule of thumb is as follows....
FC> Jigs, most soft plastic (especially weightless senkos and such)
Mono> Crankbaits
Hybrid Lines> multipurpose here. I like it for spinning gear. Most 6lb test works for me.
Braid> Punching heavy stuff and thick coverage. Overall, I am not a fan of braid as general all purpose line. I will save my breath as to why and move on.
On FC though, depending on the line, I like how it handles for most bait casters. I have never had any real issues with it. My big thing with FC is that it last longer,IMHO, than mono and I can depend on it to be, for most part, consistent in it's properties. My only gripe is the cost. Like most fishing things with added benefits, the amount of return does not equal the price.
If that's what we are talking about, I'd like to refer you here: http://www.bassresource.com/bass-fishing-forums/topic/148744-crankbaits-can-you-fully-effective-with-only-one-brand/?fromsearch=1On 5/13/2015 at 5:38 AM, papajoe222 said:I would too, if they were paying me to. The fact that a celebrity or a pro endorses something, doesn't mean it's better. I've seen sponsored tournament anglers use baits, rods and line that weren't their sponsor's because winning was more important at the time.
Bosn, I've been saying all of those things about flouro for quite some time. Just never all in one place. And never stated so concisely.
Thanks
Most avid fisherman already knows the pros & cons of every fishing line available on the market! Yes, ever line that has been manufactured has been tested to the extreme! Every fisherman has good & bad experiences with different lines but what it comes down to is "Personal Preference!" What works for one angler might not for the other! I personally love FC & use it on many applications but that's my opinion & preference! It works for me & as long as i'm landing fish that's all that matters
I am 46 years old and I have been fishing since I was 4. I like Power Pro yellow and green and Stren blue florescent mono. I think fluorocarbon line is useless, but I have never tried it so my opinion about it is useless also. I love to fish, and I also love the fishing line debate. I guess it strikes me funny because when I was young, I remember the old 10lb mono on the Zebco 33 would be semi melted together at some point during the summer, and I just pulled it all out and reeled it all back in and fished on. My biggest bass was 8lbs caught back in 1987 on 8lb stren mono that was at least 2 years old. What I really like about these types of discussions is that it gives insight to the vast majority of opinions that really good fishermen have and I am sure that a majority of the members on this forum are way better fishermen than me. So even though it seems like we have this type of discussion every other day, I feel that I learn a little bit more every time I read them. And 2 days from now when someone posts, "What is the best leader for braid?" I will eagerly read it hoping to glean a little more knowledge about bass fishing.
Very good read with facts and not speculation, bravo!!! Being older and stubborn has helped me avoid marketing and hype but at some point we all fall prey to it, it is unavoidable if you fish. I get a lot of strange looks because I use mid tier equipment which is expensive to the casual angler and even when I used high end gear my line choice was mono and copolymer lines and not because I didn't believe the marketing hype but I use what works for me, plain and simple. I'm also a "don't knock it until you tried it" kind of person and I tried fluorocarbon line, first on a spinning reel and 2 brands of fluorocarbon in 2 different strengths and diameters and both caused me the same problems. The line wasn't manageable on spinning reels and KVD L&L helped but I had to reapply it 4 to 5 times a trip and tying knots took longer as I had to be careful about burning the line or kinking the line, as I said, more trouble than it is worth. I used it with 2 different strengths and diameters with 2 different brands on casting reels too, and on the casting reel it was better but not by much, I still had the problem with tying knots and I wasn't sure if there was any difference in sensitivity but one thing I know for sure is that the line stretched but it was hard to tell how much. Fishing in the river I'm often anchored and when I'm hung up and pulling I can feel stretch as well as see it but fluorocarbon stretched weird, I didn't know it back then but I found out later that the reason it felt weird to me is the way it stretches, mono and copolymers rebound, fluorocarbon doesn't so I wasn't feeling the rebound effect and that effect is what people are use to feeling which is why a lot of angler still swear fluorocarbon line doesn't stretch. In the end it doesn't matter to me, I use braid for flipping and pitching heavy cover and for frogs but it isn't the no-stretch properties that I use it for, it is because it comes through grass better and the diameter is smaller so I can use 12lb diameter line that has 50lb breaking strength so break-offs are going to be extremely rare and that is the only times I don't use mono. No matter what anyone says or any kind of hype, you can't go wrong if you use what works for you,
Only needed one test, did it work for me on the water. The answer was a resounding yes, so I use it on almost every setup I have.
Bosn I respect your opinion and passion. I understand that marketing and hype are powerful forces, and the claims of folks who have a financial link to the products being peddled have to be examined closely. I also understand that fluorocarbon is not a magic bullet and that it has some limitations. With that said, based on my experience it works better than anything else I have used in contact applications. That statement isn't meant to stir up controversy or dismiss your findings. It simply makes the point that like many things in bass fishing, line selection is subjective. The benefits of fluorocarbon outweigh the cost in my opinion. Whether anyone else agrees really doesn't matter much...
I don't like it. I don't like that it stretches and does not recover. I don't like that a small kink will drastically weaken it. I don't like how finicky I have to be about knots. The deficiencies of the line far outweigh the negligible benefits for almost all of my fishing.
Having said that, I do use 4lb test Invizx when trout fishing. It's a little bit harder to see in the water. And the extra density helps with keeping the bait right off the bottom when drift fishing. Not big differences, but enough some times to make the difference between a two fish day and a 50 fish day.
These are my opinions, based on my experiences, and they matter to me. If they don't matter to you, that is as it should be.
Funny that the one line you do use is one of the better lines that doesn't suffer as much from the drawbacks you mention as many, many others.
On 5/13/2015 at 10:31 PM, J Francho said:Funny that the one line you do use is one of the better lines that doesn't suffer as much from the drawbacks you mention as many, many others.
Not funny at all. Simply the result of a process of elimination. I've tried a lot of them, and for my one application, Invizx is what I thought worked best.
I understand the marketing,sponsors,and the endorsements part of the debate. Lets use Sunline for example. They make all types of lines. So as long as the pro was using Sunline then they are endorsing their sponsors product. Why would they use a line 'fluoro' that offers no benefits to them when trying to earn a check?
I like fluoro for its slack line sensitivity, and general bottom contact situations.
On 5/13/2015 at 9:25 PM, K_Mac said:Bosn I respect your opinion and passion. I understand that marketing and hype are powerful forces, and the claims of folks who have a financial link to the products being peddled have to be examined closely. I also understand that fluorocarbon is not a magic bullet and that it has some limitations. With that said, based on my experience it works better than anything else I have used in contact applications. That statement isn't meant to stir up controversy or dismiss your findings. It simply makes the point that like many things in bass fishing, line selection is subjective. The benefits of fluorocarbon outweigh the cost in my opinion. Whether anyone else agrees really doesn't matter much...
Pretty much my take as well .It seems to work better for me as well , especially fishing bottom contact baits in 10 ' plus water . I rarely have knot failure, just lube well and pull a little slower . It seems to be a big plus when fishing jerkbaits as well , especially if you want your bait to run a little deeper . That said floro is one product where you have to be willing to spend more to get good performance, cheap floro lines always seem to disappoint and many get disillusioned and write off all floro line. It's not the best line for all applications but in my opinion it gives you an edge in certain ones .
Regarding Yozuri Hybrid, I used to be a big fan. The last couple of times I was very disapointed as the line broke off easily, not sure if they changed something but I now view it as being unreliable . Regarding Floro the most impressive brand is Sunline based on my experience though Seaguar Tatsu is great stuff and my choice for a spinning rods . Tried Abrazx & Invisx and had too many break - off with both .
Listen Flouro doesn sound like its that much more invisible than mono but it IS slightly less visible.. the refraction index is closer to water .. shows it.. I can see a difference in the gin clear water since I use fluoro leader on my flipping stick and mono on my swimbait rod.
Is it worth it? For some of us using it as leader.. it is.. if it breaks off, tie another length..
I use Tatsu and even it breaks off.. but Ill take any advantage in fishing I can get and this is a no brainer.. if you dont want the fish to see the line under certain conditions, use the flouro.. if there were no fluror.. I'd tie on a mono leader..
Then what is one to do when trying to make Fluorocarbon fit the program but the can't afford Shooter or Tatsu?On 5/14/2015 at 5:40 AM, Primus said:Pretty much my take as well .It seems to work better for me as well , especially fishing bottom contact baits in 10 ' plus water . I rarely have knot failure, just lube well and pull a little slower . It seems to be a big plus when fishing jerkbaits as well , especially if you want your bait to run a little deeper . That said floro is one product where you have to be willing to spend more to get good performance, cheap floro lines always seem to disappoint and many get disillusioned and write off all floro line. It's not the best line for all applications but in my opinion it gives you an edge in certain ones .
Regarding Yozuri Hybrid, I used to be a big fan. The last couple of times I was very disapointed as the line broke off easily, not sure if they changed something but I now view it as being unreliable . Regarding Floro the most impressive brand is Sunline based on my experience though Seaguar Tatsu is great stuff and my choice for a spinning rods . Tried Abrazx & Invisx and had too many break - off with both .
On 5/14/2015 at 5:49 PM, jakob1010 said:Then what is one to do when trying to make Fluorocarbon fit the program but the can't afford Shooter or Tatsu?
Sunline Sniper FC
I just recently picked up 12 lb Sunline Super flourocarbon at a local tackle shop after having a few break offs ( not even at the knot ) with seaguar abrazx on my jerkbait rod. It comes in 200 yd spool for $ 14.99 which is very reasonable for this type of line and so far I have been very impressed . That said I only have had it on for about 6 outings which is a small sample size so I want to be cautious about giving it a recommendation. I've probably have landed about 60 plus fish with it with no issues so far as a couple of times the jerkbait was a key lure for me .
I also picked up a spool of Gander Mountain flourocarbon in 12 lb test and the box it says it's made by Sunline, I will put that on my deep diving crank rod after we get through the spawn and move into the summer bite .I have not spooled it on yet so obviously I have no opinions other than I like that it comes in a 400 yard spool and runs $ 19.99 which is very appealing . The only thing that stinks is that my local store does not carry the 12 lb test and I had to order it online which I found to be strange that they have other brands in 12 lb test but not the housebrand ? Time will tell if this is a good deal .
Let me know what you think of the Gander Mt line. At that price as well as BOGO 50% online I'm interested to see what you have to think.On 5/14/2015 at 7:55 PM, Primus said:I just recently picked up 12 lb Sunline Super flourocarbon at a local tackle shop after having a few break offs ( not even at the knot ) with seaguar abrazx on my jerkbait rod. It comes in 200 yd spool for $ 14.99 which is very reasonable for this type of line and so far I have been very impressed . That said I only have had it on for about 6 outings which is a small sample size so I want to be cautious about giving it a recommendation. I've probably have landed about 60 plus fish with it with no issues so far as a couple of times the jerkbait was a key lure for me .
I also picked up a spool of Gander Mountain flourocarbon in 12 lb test and the box it says it's made by Sunline, I will put that on my deep diving crank rod after we get through the spawn and move into the summer bite .I have not spooled it on yet so obviously I have no opinions other than I like that it comes in a 400 yard spool and runs $ 19.99 which is very appealing . The only thing that stinks is that my local store does not carry the 12 lb test and I had to order it online which I found to be strange that they have other brands in 12 lb test but not the housebrand ? Time will tell if this is a good deal .
I probably won't be spooling it on until early June and then after that it will take a few outings to get a feel for it, that said I will glad to share my observations .
Hated fluro until I found what works for me. Sniper in #16. it only goes on a couple rods and the rest have mono/hybrid/braid in various tests.
in all honesty- I have not broken a fish off in a long time on any type of line except larger harder pulling species on the same #tests. Sure I have to break off rocks/snags/etc, but not breaking with fish on the line. I do retie fairly often- but not real religious on swapping my line out. Maybe twice a year tops on non braided lines.
Never had issues with managing line no matter what brand either except on a spinning reels- that was a painful reminder to keep it simple.
On 5/14/2015 at 5:39 AM, rippin-lips said:I understand the marketing,sponsors,and the endorsements part of the debate. Lets use Sunline for example. They make all types of lines. So as long as the pro was using Sunline then they are endorsing their sponsors product. Why would they use a line 'fluoro' that offers no benefits to them when trying to earn a check?
I like fluoro for its slack line sensitivity, and general bottom contact situations.
Come on, the only use fluoro because they're getting paid for it! No benefit to them! They get paid so much from their sponsors they don't care if their lines snaps easy, they're drinking the kool-aid!
For those who can't tell, I'm kidding. For some people, fluorocarbon works. For some people, braid with a leader. For some people, mono or co-poly. I guess I can appreciate the OP for trying to save people money and change the mindset. But I see a lot of "oh this guy is getting paid to use this, that's the only reason they use it" stuff, and really, there's not very much of that going on. Not much money being thrown around for using a product anymore.
I use it for the sole reason it sinks. Plus I buy bulk spools so it comes out same price range as if I bought my mono of choice.
On 5/15/2015 at 3:54 AM, DTack said:. But I see a lot of "oh this guy is getting paid to use this, that's the only reason they use it" stuff, and really, there's not very much of that going on. Not much money being thrown around for using a product anymore.
I think that most pros use what works for them, when going for the big check that some tourney's pay, then at the winning stand they push the product that's paying the bills. I really like MLF, they product placement in the series is unreal tho. Most pros sponsorships pay only day to day cost, that gets them on the road. I would hate to think of the money it costs to compete. The Elite series is what $50,000 annually plus tourney fess.
On 5/15/2015 at 4:06 AM, dam0007 said:I use it for the sole reason it sinks. Plus I buy bulk spools so it comes out same price range as if I bought my mono of choice.
What in the world is your mono of choice?!? I can buy bulk spools of my mono of choice cheaper than I can buy a 200 yard spool of quality fluorocarbon.
lately Sufix Siege, I get 1,000 yard spools of Red Label for $35 and 3,000 yard spools of invizx for $130On 5/15/2015 at 8:02 AM, jakob1010 said:What in the world is your mono of choice?!? I can buy bulk spools of my mono of choice cheaper than I can buy a 200 yard spool of quality fluorocarbon.
On 5/15/2015 at 3:54 AM, DTack said:Come on, the only use fluoro because they're getting paid for it! No benefit to them! They get paid so much from their sponsors they don't care if their lines snaps easy, they're drinking the kool-aid!
For those who can't tell, I'm kidding. For some people, fluorocarbon works. For some people, braid with a leader. For some people, mono or co-poly. I guess I can appreciate the OP for trying to save people money and change the mindset. But I see a lot of "oh this guy is getting paid to use this, that's the only reason they use it" stuff, and really, there's not very much of that going on. Not much money being thrown around for using a product anymore.
Exactly, most of those same companies that produce floro also offer mono & braid as well so they have no reason to claim to use floro and actually use something else as they can still support / promote their line sponsors with a different line type .
The floro is a higher dollar and th company makes more that is reason enough. Braid is a high dollar too but it last a long time.
I started using sniper this year after being a braid w/leader user exclusively. I fish senkos weightless and t-rigged A LOT so I use fluoro exclusively on my go to combo for this presentation: nrx893/alphas sv. So far here is what I like about it so far: sink rate, slack line sensitivity and bottom contact sensitivity. The sink rate is important for this presentation because you don't want too much of a bow of line on top of the water. The senko sinks straight down instead of swinging back to you. A lot of bites occur when the senko is dropping so the slack line sensitivity comes into play. And here are the cons for me: finicky, expensive and questionable durability. It's finicky with overruns and you have to be careful not to get kinks or it's going to break. I also find it doesn't cast as easily as braid and skipping with it is tricky. If you get hung up and need to break off, it stretches and weakens the line. I'm used to using braid and being able to keep the same line on it for years. I don't think fluoro will last nearly as long which leads to the expense of re-stringing reels over the course of a season. I also have to use line and lure conditioner which is a little more of a pain. Do the pros outweigh the cons for me? The jury is still out, but on my senko rods for sure. I still have braid/leaders on the majority of my rigs, but may try fluoro on my jig combo.
I still think the profit margin has to be higher for fluorocarbon lines. They can't be that expensive to make. Like honestly?On 5/15/2015 at 11:47 AM, CRANKENSTIEN said:The floro is a higher dollar and th company makes more that is reason enough. Braid is a high dollar too but it last a long time.
On 5/14/2015 at 7:55 PM, Primus said:I just recently picked up 12 lb Sunline Super flourocarbon at a local tackle shop after having a few break offs ( not even at the knot ) with seaguar abrazx on my jerkbait rod. It comes in 200 yd spool for $ 14.99 which is very reasonable for this type of line and so far I have been very impressed . That said I only have had it on for about 6 outings which is a small sample size so I want to be cautious about giving it a recommendation. I've probably have landed about 60 plus fish with it with no issues so far as a couple of times the jerkbait was a key lure for me .
I also picked up a spool of Gander Mountain flourocarbon in 12 lb test and the box it says it's made by Sunline, I will put that on my deep diving crank rod after we get through the spawn and move into the summer bite .I have not spooled it on yet so obviously I have no opinions other than I like that it comes in a 400 yard spool and runs $ 19.99 which is very appealing . The only thing that stinks is that my local store does not carry the 12 lb test and I had to order it online which I found to be strange that they have other brands in 12 lb test but not the housebrand ? Time will tell if this is a good deal .
I saw the gander mountain fluoro was made by sunline. Hopefully someone can give a review because it was priced right. I wonder if it is just sunline super repackaged.
Just out of curiosity I added the members that you can tell are for sure not floro users (12) , neutral (9) and big floro users (10). HMM
I have some three year old Invisx and two year old Tatsu in 6# size on two spinning setups that get use quite a bit. No need to change either yet. Wonder what costs more?
Tatsu is bank isnt it? I mean compared to invisx.
I would have to say that would make invisx a comparable line at better pricing, correct?
I guess. Tatsu is a better line than Invisx. Invisx is better than most.
I'm not a user. I'm just curious. I'd like to try it... But for me its hard to sink money into something I may not likeOn 5/15/2015 at 11:19 PM, CRANKENSTIEN said:Just out of curiosity I added the members that you can tell are for sure not floro users (12) , neutral (9) and big floro users (10). HMM
On 5/16/2015 at 12:50 AM, jakob1010 said:I'm not a user. I'm just curious. I'd like to try it... But for me its hard to sink money into something I may not like
Wait till you buy a new truck or home & think I don't know if I like it.. That's the pits there, lol
9/10 of "liking" something you bought is getting used to it.
True and avoiding preconceived notions
Since I started fishing 20+ years ago, I've always used Berkley Trilene XT without any problems. Then some of my bass fishing friends said flouro this and that, so I tried out Seagar InvisX. It casts really well but if it touches anything in the water like rocks, trees etc. it becomes very weak. I moved over to Berkley Trilene 100% Flouro and it seemed much better and stronger especially in rough conditions. Did I catch more fish using these lines? Not that I could notice. Did I waste a ton of money? Yup!
What happened before flouro? Were we all still catching tons of fish? Can we really say that flouro is making us more productive on the water? Maybe it's the lures, better presentation, or maybe you're in the right place at the right time? Who knows.
Also there has been some outings where my friends kick my butt and they are using the cheapest line, rod/reel, and lures you can find. I'm sure all of you know some people like that.
On 5/16/2015 at 2:16 AM, J Francho said:9/10 of "liking" something you bought is getting used to it.
True this, I've tried different stuff and quite frankly I'm not sure I'm a good enough fisherman to really tell the difference except maybe for sink rate. I'll keep trying different stuff, I went from P line CX to Red Label Flouro on most set ups. I think I'm catching a few more fish with the flouro but I attribute that to my skills improving more than the line change. I think when you are used to something and it is working for you it's a big confidence builder. Some folks swear confidence is one of the most important factors in successful fishing.
You get what you pay for and we all have preferences. All you need to do is understand how you like to fish and make your purchase based on what you want out of your equipment. For me its sunline fc sniper and suline fx2 braid. Also trilene mono stretches way more then fluorocarbon.
I use all 3 in different setups. I never use fluoro on BC because it's the worst for me with that equipment. I have only had one bad experience with fluoro and attribute that to a bad spool. Normall use Sunline FC and P-Line CX (fluoro coated). Regarding mono I use BPS Excel in bulk and re-spool a lot. It's cheap and works great for me.
It is true that you have to pay more attention to your knot tying and the quality of knots with fluoro than the others (again, to me). Knots are always important but a poor knot will kill you with fluoro as I learned when first trying it out. I fish fluoro for drop shot and senkos like a lot of people. Double palomar well lubed holds great for me.
I used Vanish 17# for years without incident. It was my pitching and T-rig line. And I mean the exact same line on the same reel, unchanged. It was extremely sensitive with much less stretch than mono and a little more than braid. It seems the purpose of this thread is to discredit floro. If it didn't have its place pros wouldn't be using it. They would take the check and use something else.
I finally changed it out for braid because I wanted that rod to double for frogs. And honestly I think the whole visibility thing is overplayed, especially where I live. I still have a little for leaders if I want to use one.
Surprised I missed this thread.
My first experience with FC line was on a salt water trip to catch white sea bass for brood stock about 1983.
John Dority of JD's tackle handed out leader spool of 25 lb test FC to use on a dropper rig with live squid. Had claimed the fish can't see it and it will improved our catch rates. The anglers who tried FC leaders out fished everyone who didn't use it on this trip. I was hooked on FC.
The next marlin and tuna trip to Cabo we all had FC leader material up to 100 lbs. by the end of that trip we had so many line and knot failures the FC went into the trash can.
1988 Aaron Martens introduces the local bass anglers to Sunline Shooter FC line in 100 meter spools, 10 to 20 lb test. Aaron is winning a lot of tournaments using FC Shooter, so again I get hooked on FC and learn to tie the SD jam knot. Sunline Shooter price keeps going up to $35 a 100 meter spool, so I start looking for alternatives at lower a price point. Nothing is close to Shooter's performance for about 15 years until Sunline cones out with Super Sniper at 1/2 the price of Shooter, cost problem solved, performance is almost as good.
Knots are still a problem with FC, must be tied correctly. For me the low coeffient of water drag translates into better strike detection when fishing jigs. Knots are a problem and line management is a problem using FC, so I only use it for jigs and worms during the day time. I use premium mono at night due to ease and reliability of knot tying and can get away with larger diameter line.
FC line is a permanent part of bass fishing today, until something comes along that's better.
There are some very good FC lines available, however they all are over $35 / 100 meters...too expensive for most bass anglers.
Tom
I use Seagar Invisx 15# on most and #8 Lb on my Finesse spinning rods. The only time i use braid is on my Carolina Rig, and the only time I use Mono is on my Topwater rig.
I can keep the invisx on for 2-3 years depending upon how much I use each rod, I usually will spray the line with conditioner 2-3 times a year. I just cut off a couple of feet when it gets scuffed and keep fishing.You can't do that with Mono, it will degrade with heat and sunlight and become brittle and break very easy.
I don't even listen to the FC ney sayers, to me Seagar Invisx is the top fishing line out there and it's all I use in Floro line. I'm sure the Tatsu is better but it's just crazy priced.
I always find it interesting when someone has a bad experience with something - often years ago - and vows to never use it again. This ignores different brands, different products within a brand, the idea that it may have been user error...or that it was simply a bad individual product (made on a Monday, so to speak).
I tried fluorocarbon when I first got back into fishing...didn't like it...tried some other brands, other types...still didn't like it...but I checked back now and - and I learned a bunch of things - then and there are some places where it is the best possible choice.
Most often I use it for leaders, tied on to braid...or onto a fly line...but there's other times when it's fine on its own.
I've never understood the mindset that leads to what I'll call a "purist" mentality. It's a limiting behavior that insulates the believer from improvements and opportunity to learn and grow...
...For instance, I fly fish...but I am not a "fly fisherman". I use spinning and bait casting gear when it works best...or when I want to. I have plenty of examples of things I've learned in one kind of fishing that crosses over to another...putting it all together makes me a better fisherman overall.
Ignoring fluorocarbon because I didn't like it years ago would have left me with a gap in my tool box...and - for me - that'd be bad...
I have been catching more fish since switching to at least a fluorocarbon leader. Maybe the fish fell for the hype as well? Lol... I also agree with the post regarding many line for different applications. It does cost a bit more, but I would say it is more worth paying $15 to spool my reel that only cost $60 than some people who are paying $300 and more on reels! That's where the marketing trickery is really happening! To each their own