For enthusiasts, technique specific gear is fun
to collect. However, three rigs cover all the
basics:
#1 6 1/2' or 7' MHF baitcaster for jigs, some
soft plastics and spinnerbaits
#2 6 1/2' or 7' MM baitcaster for treble hook
lures
#3 7' MF spinning rod for lighter lures and a
variety of techniques
On 2/5/2014 at 3:37 AM, roadwarrior said:For enthusiasts, technique specific gear is fun
to collect. However, three rigs cover all the
basics:
#1 6 1/2' or 7' MHF baitcaster for jigs, some
soft plastics and spinnerbaits
#2 6 1/2' or 7' MM baitcaster for treble hook
lures
#3 7' MF spinning rod for lighter lures and a
variety of techniques
I'm glad three setups work for you! I have a hard time making 6 setups work.
I hope my wife doesn't see this!
Hey RW. What would you recommend for line on these 3 set ups?
The simple answer is #12 Yo-Zuri Hybrid on baitcasters, #6 Y-Z Hybrid on spinning tackle.
Other suggestions for baitcasters include Kanzan #50 direct or with #20 Tatsu leader.
#20 Tatsu or AbrazX for fluorocarbon only.
Although I generally recommend #6 Hybrid, I use mostly #4 on spinning gear. However,
not everyone would be comfortable with that choice. I also use Tatsu #6. Lots of guys
like braid, too. I have experimented, but it's not for me.
Thanks RW
Ok. I already have 6# yozuri hybrid soft on my spinning rod (Dobyns 683SF). Just bought a Dobyns DX744C and a 705CB to round out my arsenal. Got some 12# yozuri hybrid for 705CB. Want braid on the DX744C. Seems that 30-50 are most popular so I'm leaning towards 40# braid currently.
Hey RW, would you mind expounding on what all techniques the spinning rod would be capable of?
Gosh, there is no limit to what you can do with spinning tackle, from bream to yellowfin tuna!
For me, spinning tackle is all about finesse. Primarily I fish soft plastics and live bait with spinning
gear. For everything else I like the feel and functionality of baitcasting equipment. My basic rig is
a 2500 size reel, 7' MF rod and #4 or #6 line.
Specifically this is my spinning gear:
G.Loomis PR844S/ Stella 2500FD/ Yo-Zuri Hybrid #4 (Mostly live bait)
St. Croix LES70MF/ Stella 2500FE/ Tatsu #6 (This is my primary rig)
St. Croix Avid AVS66MLF/ Stella 1000FA/ Hybrid #4 (Trout, white bass & bream)
The RW trio is spot on! ... Here is my "base" set
#1 6 1/2' MH baitcaster for jigs, spinnerbaits, walk to the dog baits, flippin and pitchin moderate cover etc.
#2 7' MM baitcaster for treble hook lures (square bills, jerkbaits, lipless CB's, poppers)
#3 6'9" MF spinning rod (weightless senko, drop shot, mojo rig, lighter lures like the KVD 1.0 Squares)
I mainly use five rod setups from shore. My topwater and Carolina rig plastics setups are the heaviest. Then my spinnerbaits setup, my crankbait setup and my small light lure setup. These are spinning outfits. They range from 7'2", 7', 6'6" 6' & 5'6". I have more but narrowed it down to five.
My new baitcasters pretty much the same range except no light tackle.
I'm not talking about my 6 fly rod setups, my trout and great northern pike setups, my saltwater setups for bluefish and stripers, weakfish, flounder and blackfish.
I probably own more tackle than I'll ever need but this season I'm going to try my hardest to wear out them all. Bill
My goal someday is to fly fish for ever fish species we have here.
RW, Thanks for posting this. It was extremely helpful for someone just getting back into fishing after an eight year absence. I was overwhelmed shopping online and in the stores and didnt no where to start. Thanks again
I use a 7MHM for a greater spectrum of throwing cranks from wake/shallow to deep divers running up to 20ft
ok, sorry to seem a little dense but what does the MF, MM and MH stand for? Thanks!
They are types of rods depending on what kind I fish your catching and how your catching them. MF stands for medium fast MH stands for medium heavy and MM stands for medium moderate hope this helps
Hey RW! Im looking to get a casting rod for my new bionic plus reel! im looking for something for mainly spinners, frogs, crankbaits and Jigs. what rod and line would you recommend? im looking to spend under $100, thanks!
For an all-around rod in your price range take a look at Okuma 7' MF
On 2/5/2014 at 3:37 AM, roadwarrior said:
For enthusiasts, technique specific gear is fun
to collect. However, three rigs cover all the
basics:
#1 6 1/2' or 7' MH baitcaster for jigs, some
soft plastics and spinnerbaits
#2 6 1/2' or 7' MM baitcaster for treble hook
lures
Thank you! What gear ratio would you put on each?
For single hooks 6.0 - 7+
5.0 or so for treble hooks.
Medium fast and medium heavy but I don't know what mm is
MM = Medium Power/ Moderate Action
Very good info for a beginner like my self. I will return to this thread when buy a new combo. I have a spinning combo now with 6lb on it. I am only comfortable throwing plastic worms right now so it fits real well with what was said. Again very good info.
First letter or two letters is the power. M for medium, or MH for medium heavy, or H for heavy. The 2 or 3 letter is the action. L for light, ML for medium light, M for moderate, F for fast, EF for extra fast, etc.
I just recently bought a Sellus from a buddy, and its an x-fast model. Ill be using it for my jig fishing, when Im typically used to fishing with a regular fast tip. Should I expect a significant difference in hooksets?
I like 4 combos: one 7 ft med light spinning for finesse worms and jerk baits, one 7 ft med hvy fast action casting for jig and worm, one 7 ft med mod action for crankbaits, and one 7 ft 3 in or 6 in hvy or mag hvy for flipping, pitching, frogging and small swim baits
i agree with BasshunterJGH.
Wow, things have gotten complicated. I'm not even 40 and I can remember when we just got ourselves a 2-3 ball reel and a 6'6" MH rod and called it our Bass Rig.
Why is it that you need a specific rod for plastics than a rattletrap? And for that matter...for those of us who don't have that measly 10grand laying about for a boat, how do you bank fish a small lake/large pond with 3 different rigs?
The best thing for me to ask is what single rod will catch me fish the best if I'm using anything from plastic worms to rattletraps to buzzbaits to jigs? (I know there's got to be one because they used to make them.)
My current rig is a 22y.o. speed spool with an Ambassadeur 2000 IM6 rod.
I have a new Speed Spool on a Shakespeare Alpha IM7 rod, but considering a Bucoo Micro rod for it. Any help?
Oh yeah...one more thing...we never talked about a rods 'action' back then. It was light, medium light, medium, medium heavy, and heavy.
What's with all this MH fast action jazz y'all are talking about? It's confusing.
On 6/1/2014 at 11:26 AM, chelboed said:What's with all this MH fast action jazz y'all are talking about? It's confusing.
http://www.bassresource.com/bass-fishing-forums/topic/35514-rods-power-and-action-%C2%A0defined/
Thanks man!
I also stopped by Bass Pro in Springfield today...he helped me out too.
Thanks again
I use a lot of Texas rigged plastics and senkos. I would love some advise on a rod.
T-rigged: 6 1/2' - 7' MHF baitcasting gear
Senkos: 6 1/2 - 7' MF spinning tackle
Alright, so I was ay wally world and they had Bucoo micro's on sale for $99. I bought a Herm (6'6" MH, MF) went fishing along the weeds and losst 3 fish. I feel like the 6'6" MH felt more like a straight-up medium, so I exchanged it for a 6'10" H, MF. I have not lost a fish yet. I guess Rick Clunn is right. You do really only need 1 rod and it needs to be a "H", hahaha!
For the super-experienced fisherman with a little quicker hook-set reflexes...multiple rigs may be helpful.
I gotta tell ya though guys'n'gals, I love my 22y.o. Lew's BB-1LMG, but my new 10-ball speed spool on this Bucoo is so much more fun to fish! I'm pretty happy with it for unweighted Senko's up to cranks and heavy jigs.
I use 5 rods:
6'6" MHF with a 6.2:1 baitcaster for texas rigging, carolina rigging and plastic swimbaits/jerkbaits
6'10" MM with a 5.4:1 baitcaster for crankbaits
7' MHF with a 6.4:1 baitcaster for spinnerbaits, chatterbaits and swimming jigs
7' HXF with a 7.1:1 baitcaster for frogs, swimbaits and flipping/pitching jigs
7' MXF with a 6.2:1 spinning reel for shaky heads and wacky rigs
I need to get a 6th rod for topwater and jerkbaits and then my arsenal will be complete...for now.
6'8 casting MMF crank and jerkbaits
6'10 spinning MF light t rigs, dropshot, flukes
7' casting HF heavy jigs,spinnerbaits,chatterbaits
7' casting MHF t rigs, swim jigs
7' casting MFshaky heads, senkos
7'6 casting MHF A-Rigs
7'6 casting MF swimbaits/buzzbaits
7'6 casting XHXF frogs
Wow, you guys are really out there. Even if you buy mid-lower gear, that's gotta be over a grand just in rods and reels. I can't imagine having a seperate rod for every bait, but I'm glad some are so fortunate and so picky. That's what drives innovation and gets the trickle-down going my direction.
Gear is fun to get and to have...but definitely not necessary. Just fun.
For my spinning rod I use a regular 6'6 lightning rod it's perfect for pretty much everything you are going to throw. I catch plenty of bass on mine
Hey guys, im matt im 17 and i live on cape cod, i just started fishing and im using an old rod and reel and i was wondering if any one had any suggestions for a new rod, i currently have a spinning reel, i dont know wether i should be using that or a bait caster, any suggestions would be a huge help!
All this started 10-12 years ago when the tackle companies came up with a strategy to sell more rods by marketing "technique specific" gear. There is so much variation from one manufacturer to the next that calling a rod a "worm rod" is meaningless.
Fenwick used a "power" system, a 4 power was a light action rod, 5 power was a medium (standard) action, and 6 power was a heavy action. These three covered all the bases, for baitcasting anyway.
the consensus seems to be (for a single 'all around' rod) 6'6"-7' medium/heavy fast action. What I've found with the Falcon Bucoo is that it feels lighter than average. (I"m not the only one to observe this) So with this rod, I moved to a Heavy.
On 2/5/2014 at 3:37 AM, roadwarrior said:
For enthusiasts, technique specific gear is fun
to collect. However, three rigs cover all the
basics:
#1 6 1/2' or 7' MH baitcaster for jigs, some
soft plastics and spinnerbaits
#2 6 1/2' or 7' MM baitcaster for treble hook
lures
#3 7' MF spinning rod for lighter lures and a
variety of techniques
RW - now I'm curious about the MM. What steers you toward the MM instead of MHM? Would the MHM offer more versatility for a wider range of cranks, or do you think it's overkill for all but the deep-divers?
Overkill.
My heavy rod is a Lamiglas SR705R which I use for deep diving cranbaits.
This for medium weight lures: http://www.bassresource.com/fishing_lures/pinnacle-optimus-xlt-dhc-review.html
I think the MHM 7'2" Extreme is as close to a one rod multi purpose for cranks, spinners, and T and C rigs as their ever was, the drawback I see to using it for smaller cranks and s-bills is throwing the lighter lures, and it is the MM Avid I turn to for a two rod perfect set up for most Crank'n, it throws the smaller baits better and is more forgiving with the smaller trebles and lighter line. I like having MHF ready for jigs but most times (as I am not tournament fishing) am well covered with these two rods.
Falcon Cara T7 Cast 7' Medium
Falcon Cara T7 Spin 6'9" Medium
St Croix Avid Casting Rod 7' Med Hvy X Fast
What would be the number one choice of line on each of those three set ups?
Approved! Maybe one more for pitching into heavy cover
On 8/20/2014 at 10:27 AM, CGlover said:What would be the number one choice of line on each of those three set ups?
Spinning tackle = Yo-Zuri Hybrid #6
Baitcasting (MF or MHF) = Yo-Zuri Hybrid #12
Baitcasting (MM) = #12 Sunline Super Natural Monofilament
What would a good rod be for flipping and punching? I'm looking to go as inexpensive as possible since I don't do tourneys or competitions. If it helps you give me a better answer, where i fish there is a lot, and I mean A LOT of submerged moss and sticks and other various vegetation. Thanks!
Different companies label their rods differently. MHX uses this concept
CB843=
CB means crank bait action, most of the bend is toward the middle so the rod gives when the fish inhales the lure
84 means 84"- 7' rod
3 means 3 power, but their chart gives you the actual weight rating.
Lamiglas, alstar and Loomis use the same method.
The best tip I can give anyone is to build your own. You can get the parts and spend $75-and have a custom that many would drop $2-300 for.
Check out rodbuilder.org or Google Tom Kirkman.... They hold a show in mid NC each February. The more you know about the rods, the better decisions you can make.
Catchemall!!!
Wow no one is a fan of ML rods? Over the years I've slowly moved down from MH rods to ML. I mainly fish everything from senkos, rooster tails, to rattle traps.
My current set up is 6.6ft MLF St.Croix Legend Elite 3000/ stradic ci4+ with 20lb PP (gonna put 10lb PP soon)
So if im using jerkbaits on a river bank I should be using a baitcaster and not spinning?
On 8/20/2014 at 10:27 AM, CGlover said:What would be the number one choice of line on each of those three set ups?
I use 12 lb Invizix on the baitcasters and 6 lb AN40 on the spinning rod.
I am experimenting with braid mainline with a fluorocarbon leader on a couple of
jig/ weighted sof plastics rig as well as my treble hook combos. I think I will probably
go back to Yo-Zuri Hybrid and Tatsu only. I like a lot of the characteristics of braid,
but for me it is just a pain in the rear to deal with. I thought the combination with leader
might be the solution, but I am not completely satisfied. You will have to test different
combinations for yourself.
The short answer is this:
"The Best" is #6 Tatsu for spinning, #20 for MH or H baitcasting and #12 Sunline
Super Natural for MM.
For cost efficiency substitue Yo-Zuri Hybrid #6 for spinning gear and #12 for the
MH or H baitcaster.
On 9/3/2014 at 11:09 PM, roadwarrior said:I am experimenting with braid mainline with a fluorocarbon leader on a couple of
jig/ weighted sof plastics rig as well as my treble hook combos. I think I will probably
go back to Yo-Zuri Hybrid and Tatsu only. I like a lot of the characteristics of braid,
but for me it is just a pain in the rear to deal with. I thought the combination with leader
might be the solution, but I am not completely satisfied. You will have to test different
combinations for yourself.
I have tried this same experiment with braid. I too don't feel happy with it. I like braid for fishing heavy coverage but it is not my go to line of choice. I like Yozuri Hybrid and Invisix. Tatsu is on my list for next year.
This sounds logical and I like the idea of 3 set-ups. Unfortunately my buddy (a guy who admittedly catches fish much more consistently than myself), had me convinced differently. I now own, well ummm, more than 3. Next time out I think I will try to focus on the 3 set-ups you suggest and see how that goes.
On 6/14/2014 at 12:24 AM, chelboed said:Wow, you guys are really out there. Even if you buy mid-lower gear, that's gotta be over a grand just in rods and reels. I can't imagine having a seperate rod for every bait, but I'm glad some are so fortunate and so picky. That's what drives innovation and gets the trickle-down going my direction.
Gear is fun to get and to have...but definitely not necessary. Just fun
I own more gear than I need so i certainly hear ya. If I break down cost per fish, each of those large mouths are pretty darned expensive. And that is just the cost of the gear. If I owned a boat cost per fish would be out of this world!
Hello everyone, first post here. I was curious on what my second rod and reel should be. I have a berkley lightning rod and a bass pro reel 6.3:1. I used it as a multipurpose and it worked swell. I was debating between a crankbait rod (okuma tcs medium+ with medium action) or a st croix mojo bass rod same specifics. Or I was wondering if I should get a jig,plastic rod as I use hard tackle and plastics equally.
I know nothing about a plastic/jig rod but I love sensitivity and curious on what actions to get it. I'd want it at 7ft and around 100 dollars.
I planned on purchasing either another bass pro qualifier (protip its 50 bucks the second weekend of febuary) or a diawa tatula(on amazon for 100)
Opinions?
Start a new topic to post your question in this section of the Forum, but not on this thread.
I've learned a lot on this thread.....but the thing that sticks out the most here is that RW really likes his Stellas haha. Wouldn't mind one or two myself if and when they land in my budget.
I have a couple of thoughts here. One is that we have to remember that there isn't an industry standard on rods. I wish there was. I have MHs that feel like Heavies etc. My second thought is that if you are going to ask for advise, we need more information. If you want a rod, we need to know what kind of fishing you do, where you fish from (boat, shore) and what your budget is. Even at that, you need to do some research. And when all is said and done, there are a bunch of great rods out there. I own a Veritas, St. Croix's, Quantum's and some from a local chain (made by *** I believe) and they're all great.
Why should we care about what rod to use with what technique? You don't have to but for each technique, I've found that one rod makes the task easier than others. When frogging, I get a much better hook up ratio when I use a stiff heavy rod. When I pitch, I find the action and sensitivity of my Veritas MH helps. When I'm walking the dog from my Kayak, my 6 ft MXF works great. Can I go out there with one or two rods and catch fish? Sure and I can tighten any nut with a pair of vice grips but I like to use a socket set or the right size box end wrench if I can. I hope that makes sense.
Email sent.
Would a MM crap ole two piece rod work for treble hook and spinner baits in a pond? I may eventually upgrade but for now that'll be my rod. If I get a new rod would a MF or MM be more versatile?
If this thread were to recommend a St. Croix Avid MH bait caster as the first rig, would it be the AVC70MF?
If you could only limit yourself to two setups what would you get?
Do I need an UL roostertails?
I'm pond fishing so I'd like to limit myself to just two setups.
Here are my technique is from most used to least:
Roostertail, spinnerbait, wacky Senko, shaky head, lipless & square ill crankbait, jointed swimbait,
#1 6 1/2' or 7' MH baitcaster for jigs, some
soft plastics, spinnerbaits and treble hook lures.
#2 6 1/2' or 7' MF spinning rod for lighter lures and a
variety of techniques
I do a lot of crankbait fishing. But this year I want to do more soft plastic fishing. WHAT ROD SHOULD I GET THAT WOULD FIT BOTH CRANKING AND SOFT PLASTICS? MH or M. I also plan on a 6.1 to 6.4 reel.
On 5/21/2015 at 5:35 AM, Bassay said:I do a lot of crankbait fishing. But this year I want to do more soft plastic fishing. WHAT ROD SHOULD I GET THAT WOULD FIT BOTH CRANKING AND SOFT PLASTICS? MH or M. I also plan on a 6.1 to 6.4 reel.
It depends what type of plastics. If you were throwing a weightless worm, or a weightless fluke or something, I would say that a medium fast action would do fine, but if you like big texas rigged brush hogs or something like that I would most definitely go with the medium heavy.
Your choice between a M or MH for throwing both cranks and plastics will largely depend on the "stoutness" of the rod. I don't have a ton of experience with different rod makes, but I enjoy using my MF St. Croix Avid for square bills, lipless crankbaits and also t-rigged and weightless plastics. It's a great multi-purpose rod, in part because it has a bit more backbone than your average M-weight rod. But, for example, when I throw a bulky buzzbait or frog my MHF Avid gets the nod.
I second that I have about 6 all like those 3 and they do the trick just fine. However, that being said I still live that technique specific stuff
On 5/26/2015 at 10:48 PM, JDJ said:Your choice between a M or MH for throwing both cranks and plastics will largely depend on the "stoutness" of the rod. I don't have a ton of experience with different rod makes, but I enjoy using my MF St. Croix Avid for square bills, lipless crankbaits and also t-rigged and weightless plastics. It's a great multi-purpose rod, in part because it has a bit more backbone than your average M-weight rod. But, for example, when I throw a bulky buzzbait or frog my MHF Avid gets the nod.
Two GREAT rods!
I don't know whether or not this is logical thinking bc I never handled a cranking rod, but... Do you feel like you can get away with spending less on a cranking rod since you don't necessarily need it to be super sensitive? It seems like crankbait fishing is a reaction bite. If i wanted to save some money on one of my rods would this be a logical rod to make that "sacrifice"?
On 6/2/2015 at 11:16 PM, microotter said:I don't know whether or not this is logical thinking bc I never handled a cranking rod, but... Do you feel like you can get away with spending less on a cranking rod since you don't necessarily need it to be super sensitive? It seems like crankbait fishing is a reaction bite. If i wanted to save some money on one of my rods would this be a logical rod to make that "sacrifice"?
Yes, absolutely.
Nice info
7' H/F 50# braid frog rod
6'8" MH/F 40# braid flipping and pitching, soft plastics, and poppers
6'6" M/M 12# mono crank baits, spinnerbaits, and buzz baits
OP, Do these set ups work for what I use them for?
I'm new to baitcasting and just bought my first reel. I got the h20 mettle reel. What rod would go well with this for general purpose? I guess I will be using a lot of crankbaits.
So I will only be fishing with spinning gear.
I want to break away from my 10-12# mono so what do you guys suggest?
I currently have a 6'6 MF rod by Shimano.
I'm trying to get something that I can throw into cover with no problem and rip fish out. Is braid the answer or is that Yo-Zuri hybrid good?
So here is a newbie question... Does it really matter what orientation I use a specific rod?
To clarify, some rods are made for spinning reels and then others have that little finger ledge thing for the spincast reels or baitcasters. I have primarily spinning reels but wanted to use a spinning rod with my baitcaster. So the eyelets that would normally be facing groundward would be facing skyward. I have heard a fishing pro state that it matters but that is only one opinion. I rather not spend addition funds if a have a perfectly good rod already.
Well, if you don't mind lookin' a fool the rod & reel with be "functional", but uncomfortable.
What would be the ideal gear ratios for the setups? And what about frogs?
Shimano Curado 6.3:1 on my 7' MF St .Croix Mojo Bass
On 7/13/2015 at 10:51 PM, Atl Braves said:What would be the ideal gear ratios for the setups? And what about frogs?
5.0:1 for deep diving crankbaits and large lures
6.3:1 is the most versatile for an all-around reel
7.1:1 for buzzbait, spinnerbaits, chatterbaits and for some, pitiching jigs.
On 2/5/2014 at 3:37 AM, roadwarrior said:
For enthusiasts, technique specific gear is fun
to collect. However, three rigs cover all the
basics:
#1 6 1/2' or 7' MH baitcaster for jigs, some
soft plastics and spinnerbaits
#2 6 1/2' or 7' MM baitcaster for treble hook
lures
#3 7' MF spinning rod for lighter lures and a
variety of techniques
RW - thanks for posting this. How about buzzbaits? Im assuming you'd put that with #1? You say some soft plastics though. This is where my confusion comes in. Why only some? I see people saying their setup if for punching through thick stuff. Or its their texas rig setup, etc etc. What do you mean by "some", and what soft plastics would you use on that setup? Why would you not use the others?
Thanks for the help, I'm learning!
I use a baitcaster for some weighted soft plastis, but I mostly fish them on spinning tackle.
On 2/5/2014 at 3:37 AM, roadwarrior said:#1 6 1/2' or 7' MH baitcaster for jigs, some
soft plastics and spinnerbaits
Does the action of the MH matter? Looking at No.8 Tackle BlackOut Casting Rod 7' Med Hvy because I liked their spinning rod, but it says extra fast action.
Fast or extra fast is fine for single hooks.
7 ft med fast diawa silvercast 100 for finesse with 8 lb flouroclear......7 med hvy moderate diawa silvercast 120 with 10 lb iron silk for cranks and spinners......diawa silvercast 170 on a 7 ft med hvy rod with wildefire braid in 20 lb for frogs, jigs , large flukes , etc....all rods cherry wood by berkley except the 170 is on a cabelas tourney rod.Thats how I roll ....spincast all the way.I catch musky bass walleye pike smallmouth with no second seat to no one.
Whatever works for you!
For my money spinning reels and baitcasters are better options.
I'm buying a boat this coming yr, and I'm 6' can I fish a 7' rod for frogs or will I hit the water with the tip? And should I go with H or XH and F or XF, rod will be a loomis glx. And the other rod I need is a topwater rod I guess for spooks and bigger prop baits again 7' if it wouldn't be too long, I'm thinking MH or H and F or XF tip? Same rod loomis glx. And what line are you guys using for topwater not frogs? Don't care what weight cuz that depends on where u fish, I mean mono or braid, or braid mono leader. Oh and I'm in tx home lake is fork and fishing pond right now and it's 3.5 and up all day with a 6 to 8 thrown in there so maybe XH frog and H topwater and XF tip for frog but which tip for topwater? And what are you guys throwing you light topwaters/poppers on? Thanks
On 10/30/2015 at 2:43 PM, TxHawgs said:I'm buying a boat this coming yr, and I'm 6' can I fish a 7' rod for frogs or will I hit the water with the tip? And should I go with H or XH and F or XF, rod will be a loomis glx. And the other rod I need is a topwater rod I guess for spooks and bigger prop baits again 7' if it wouldn't be too long, I'm thinking MH or H and F or XF tip? Same rod loomis glx. And what line are you guys using for topwater not frogs? Don't care what weight cuz that depends on where u fish, I mean mono or braid, or braid mono leader. Oh and I'm in tx home lake is fork and fishing pond right now and it's 3.5 and up all day with a 6 to 8 thrown in there so maybe XH frog and H topwater and XF tip for frog but which tip for topwater? And what are you guys throwing you light topwaters/poppers on? Thanks
Since you'll be using braid most likely a fast action will be better. A little more give to cast smoother. I think you can also work the frog a bit better with a little more tip. Up in PA I won't handle the fish size you do, but I use a rod that's more on the MH side and still has a stiff backbone 3/4 of the way up.
On 11/1/2015 at 10:28 PM, Bruce424 said:Since you'll be using braid most likely a fast action will be better. A little more give to cast smoother. I think you can also work the frog a bit better with a little more tip. Up in PA I won't handle the fish size you do, but I use a rod that's more on the MH side and still has a stiff backbone 3/4 of the way up.
Were u talking about a topwater rod or the frog tod? I lived in PA for 42yrs and now Tx for 3. Lived in eastern then western PA, did a lot of trout and fly fishing and started fishing lake Erie for smallies after moving to western pa. The fish down here r giant, I can't believe how strong these fish r, even the 4lbrs. Hell the 4lb fish fight harder than my PB of 7lbs lol.
What about gear ratios for the reels in these setups?
General purpose, fast action baitcaster 6.0:1 or higher
Treble hooks, moderate action 5.0:1
For spinning tackle it is not important
This chart is pretty interesting: http://www.bassresource.com/bass-fishing-forums/topic/165353-bass-tackle-setup-selection-guide/
Note revisions on Page 2
my 4 rod collection has been put together, in an attempt to take advantage of the fishing spots that I frequent, while staying within a moderate budget.
My main rod is a 7' MXF 6.4:1 baitcaster with #12 Fluorocarbon, This is Used mainly for Texas rigged WormsCraws, Spinner baits, Fish head spins, Jigs and weightless Senkos, my most used techniques and lures.
6'6" MHF 6.2:1 Baitcaster, with #40 braid, Used mainly for Topwater Frogs, Jitterbugs, Poppers,and with the addition of a fluoro leader, for bigger jigs and plastics in areas with lots of vegetation where braid is a better choice of line.
6'6" MF 5.2:1 Spinning with #8 mono , used for weightless worms, and smaller, lighter lures.
6'6" 2-Piece MF 5.2:1 Spinning with #20 Fireline Crystal "Fused superline" this is my car rod,has worked as a great all around rod, that can stay in the car and being 2 piece it stays out of the way.
Im planning on adding a crankbait setup, Something 7' to 7'6" MMF would work for my need, Im pretty sold on the Abu Garcia Orra Winch combo. Though some searching has lead me to the BPS pro Qualifier reels, and im wondering for shallow to mid crankbaits, if the 4.7:1 or the 5.2:1 would be better
My setups:
1) 7' Quantum Cranking MM Rod, Lews Speed Spool baitcaster 5.4:1 w/ 10# fluoro. I love this rod for lipless and square bills. I like to throw this early and often as a search bait setup.
2) 6'7" 13 *** Black MHF Rod, Lews Speed Spool baitcaster 6.4:1 w/ 17# mono. I use this for topwater poppers, buzz baits, etc. Mono floats and allows the baits to sit on top of the water better than fluoro.
3) 6'7" 13 *** Black MHF Rod, Lews Speed Spool baitcaster 6.4:1 w/ 10# fluoro. I always have a spinner or swimbait tied on to this rig.
4) 7'1" 13 *** Black HF Rod, Lews Speed Spool baitcaster 7.1:1 w/ 20# fluoro. I use this for flipping/pitching structure, etc. I use this rod the least (based on where I fish the most often), so I'm considering re-spooling with 50# braid and converting to a frog rod.
5) 6'7" 13 *** Black MHF Spinning Rod, *on the market for a new spinning reel*, w/ 10# fluoro. 90% of the time I have a weightless senko on this setup. I'd like a second one dedicated for drop-shot fishing, but I don't neeeeed it.
I never leave the house w/o #3 and #5 rigs. Those two can handle any lure I tie on. #4 is technique specific (nothing beats frog fishing). #1 and #2 are more of a luxury. They allow me to switch my approach quickly and be much more efficient with my time. *I'd rather spend more time fishing than tying on lures. Multiple rigs allow for this....it's just expensive.*
When using a 7'6" for your frog, is it mainly to get distance on you cast? And what line or line combination are you using?
I'm looking for a new cranking rod, or two. Currently I've been throwing them on my spinning and jig rods, but have been losing a lot of fish.
Looking for some basic advice on length, brands, models, etc.
First of all, I'm thinking two rods because I like to throw big crankbaits/swimbaits, and I also fish for musky, which big baits and a heavier rod can easily serve double duty for either big bass or musky. I'm bit short (5'6"), and I'm thinking accuracy would be my main concern with small squarebills, jerkbaits, poppers, etc., so I was wondering if a shorter M-action rod (6'0"-6'6") might suit me a little better. Then I could use a 7'0"-8'0" MH or H for big squarebills, deep divers, large topwaters, and most swimbaits.
I'm also going to need to pick up at least one new casting reel at some point, though not necessarily soon. I might consider a combo, but only if I was certain that both rod and reel were quality. I would like to get a reel with a gear ratio of 7.0:1, or higher.
Looking to spend $50-100 per rod. Maybe $120 for the reel. Might go a little higher for good quality.
Any input would be appreciated.
Quick question going to pair a avid x with my 201hg live in south Florida what what be a good action and strength and length to look for lots of vegetation here.
Might also go for a second 71xg with a avid x if better suited from frog top water fishing.
I will be shore fishing mostly
thanks everyone.
The best Forum for this question is "Rods, Reels, Line and Knots.
-Kent a.a.a. roadwarrior
Global Moderator
So i'm looking to set up 3 rods that I can use for everything, 2 casting , one for jigs, flipping, spinner baits, basically anything that sinks with fluorocarbon line, one with mono filament for top water or floating techniques, and a spinning setup for finesse with fluorocarbon. Does this sound OK, if not, what would you suggest and also I need help with sizes for rods reels and lines. Thanks
I am trying to decide on a fishing rod to use for jerk baits, rattle traps, plastic worms, spoons and jigs. Generally I use somewhere 10-12 lb fluorocarbon. I am looking at a ST. CROIX model is the PC70MHF which is a moderate rode with a fast action but wanted to get some advice before I bought it and make sure there isn't anythinig better out there.
I am not a big rod junkie, i dont have 56 rods and 30 in the boat at all time. i rarely own more than 10 at one time. but if i had to stick with only 3 it would be 7'0" MH-F casting 7'0" MH crankin stick 7'0" MF spinning. They would all have shimano reels
Thanks for taking the time to post this, roadwarrior!
Gonna go buy me a spinning rig with a little more confidence than I had before reading this thread
Does one really need a baitcaster? I'm sort of afraid to drop money on one as a beginner because I've heard it's tricky in dealing with backlash. I prefer spinners or spincasts, but would I be able to do a topwater lure, spinnerbaits or drop shots with one?
On 4/15/2017 at 12:09 AM, ms.cavitycolors said:Does one really need a baitcaster? I'm sort of afraid to drop money on one as a beginner because I've heard it's tricky in dealing with backlash. I prefer spinners or spincasts, but would I be able to do a topwater lure, spinnerbaits or drop shots with one?
edit: Yes, you can use spinners for topwater, spinnerbaits, and drop shots.
Baitcasters are definitely not necessary. I often bank fish with 2 spinning reels whenever I go to tough ponds because finesse works better in my area. But when I'm on my kayak, I use my 2 baitcasters about 85% of the time.
Edited by HeavyTwentyOn 4/15/2017 at 12:09 AM, ms.cavitycolors said:Does one really need a baitcaster? I'm sort of afraid to drop money on one as a beginner because I've heard it's tricky in dealing with backlash. I prefer spinners or spincasts, but would I be able to do a topwater lure, spinnerbaits or drop shots with one?
No, not necessary at all. I fished many years without a baitcaster. And yes like previous post, it's easy to use topwater like spooks and such with a spinning reel.
On 4/15/2017 at 12:09 AM, ms.cavitycolors said:Does one really need a baitcaster? I'm sort of afraid to drop money on one as a beginner because I've heard it's tricky in dealing with backlash. I prefer spinners or spincasts, but would I be able to do a topwater lure, spinnerbaits or drop shots with one?
I understand the fear I did also I started fishing with a bait caster this last month I would start with a basic 6:4:1 Gear Ratio I use a ABU Garcia Silver Max $60 pair that with 10lb Mono for practice and use a 7ft medium/heavy fast action tip rod. great beginners setup covers a lot of different lures. Hope this helps and good luck.
I usually carry 3 set ups and I mainly fish from the bank. All casting setups.
1. 6'9" Medium x-fast for weightless plastics
2. 6'6" Medium Heavy m-fast for chatterbaits
3. 7'0" medium Heavy fast for bottom t-rigs and other bottom applications
I rarely bring out my other 2 set ups especially my crank set up because the constant snags became too much of nuisance.
On 2/23/2014 at 4:35 AM, roadwarrior said:The simple answer is #12 Yo-Zuri Hybrid on baitcasters, #6 Y-Z Hybrid on spinning tackle.
Other suggestions for baitcasters include Kanzan #50 direct or with #20 Tatsu leader.
#20 Tatsu or AbrazX for fluorocarbon only.
Although I generally recommend #6 Hybrid, I use mostly #4 on spinning gear. However,
not everyone would be comfortable with that choice. I also use Tatsu #6. Lots of guys
like braid, too. I have experimented, but it's not for me.
These line suggestions only work for specific techniques and on specific bodies of water. Bring that thread down here to south Texas and you'll spend all your time retying and replacing lost lures!!
My brother and I fished Toledo Bend for a week this spring. I did not lose any lures and neither
of us had a break-off.
Hello my name is Gus and I have a rod & reel addiction.....
There that should cover the "addiction part" of the intro, my wife thinks I'm losing my mind I do all this reading online and walk around the house mumbling, "medium heavy, extra fast....medium moderate....6'6"....7'0".....what ratio? 6.4:1? 7.1:1?..????"
She looks at me and thinks I've lost my mind!
SO, that is my question, how do you pair a reel to a rod when it comes to gearing? I see in the original post different lengths and actions are used for different types of lures and possibly techniques. What I don't understand, and am I'm starting to get the feeling there is no 100% sure fire way to do it, but is there a somewhat standard rule of thumb?
For example, I have a few rods and reels (keep in mind I'm a beginner and trying to learn as I go)
Lew's Super Duty Speed Spool 6.4:1 paired on a 7'0" Berkley Lighting Rod IM6 medium/medium.
I've pretty much been using this for soft plastics, Texas Rig weightless.
I have 2 other reels, one BPS Pro Qualifier also a 6.4:1 (on a 6'6" BPS rod), don't care of it as much and a tatula CT 100HS which is 7.3:1 (on a 7'1" Daiwa rod). The Lews feels the best in my hand that is why I'm looking for a 2nd Lew's.
I'm kinda wanting to get a Lew's Super Duty Speed Spool SD1XH 8.0:1 but have no clue what rod I should look to pair it with, I'm assuming I'd be using the 8.0:1 for swim baits and frogs (correct?) so would I want another 7' rod and if so what action?
If not a 7' is there anything else y'all recommend action? And if it's not too much trouble explaining why you make those choices? Have I lost my mind and should I just stick with the one I like?
I understand the gear ratio part of it but I don't really understand medium/medium vs medium-heavy fast vs medium fast...etc..etc..?
I did pick up a spinning reel for live bait when I go fishing with my kids, I didn't go nuts but I like it, it's a Okuma Ceymar C-30, has 5.0:1 it's paired on an Ugly Stick Elite Spinning rod 6'6" medium 2pc.
Thank you for any help or tips, back to driving my wife nuts with my 7.1:1 medium heavy fast mumbling.
Edit: not sure if this will help or not but I am a Pond fisherman, currently no boat so my fishing is from the bank, not sure that matters on length but some videos I'd seen had mentioned around 7' being ideal, but I did notice some rods are longer like 7'10" not sure if those would be hard to use around the banks or not.
Edit #2, I may have stumbled upon some help, for the other newbies like me out there:
http://*/fishing/articles/beginning-bass-fishing/matching-your-rods-reels-and-line/
On 8/31/2017 at 11:58 AM, Gus Heinze said:Hello my name is Gus and I have a rod & reel addiction.....
There that should cover the "addiction part" of the intro, my wife thinks I'm losing my mind I do all this reading online and walk around the house mumbling, "medium heavy, extra fast....medium moderate....6'6"....7'0".....what ratio? 6.4:1? 7.1:1?..????"
She looks at me and thinks I've lost my mind!
SO, that is my question, how do you pair a reel to a rod when it comes to gearing? I see in the original post different lengths and actions are used for different types of lures and possibly techniques. What I don't understand, and am I'm starting to get the feeling there is no 100% sure fire way to do it, but is there a somewhat standard rule of thumb?
For example, I have a few rods and reels (keep in mind I'm a beginner and trying to learn as I go)
Lew's Super Duty Speed Spool 6.4:1 paired on a 7'0" Berkley Lighting Rod IM6 medium/medium.
I've pretty much been using this for soft plastics, Texas Rig weightless.
I have 2 other reels, one BPS Pro Qualifier also a 6.4:1 (on a 6'6" BPS rod), don't care of it as much and a tatula CT 100HS which is 7.3:1 (on a 7'1" Daiwa rod). The Lews feels the best in my hand that is why I'm looking for a 2nd Lew's.
I'm kinda wanting to get a Lew's Super Duty Speed Spool SD1XH 8.0:1 but have no clue what rod I should look to pair it with, I'm assuming I'd be using the 8.0:1 for swim baits and frogs (correct?) so would I want another 7' rod and if so what action?
If not a 7' is there anything else y'all recommend action? And if it's not too much trouble explaining why you make those choices? Have I lost my mind and should I just stick with the one I like?
I understand the gear ratio part of it but I don't really understand medium/medium vs medium-heavy fast vs medium fast...etc..etc..?
I did pick up a spinning reel for live bait when I go fishing with my kids, I didn't go nuts but I like it, it's a Okuma Ceymar C-30, has 5.0:1 it's paired on an Ugly Stick Elite Spinning rod 6'6" medium 2pc.
Thank you for any help or tips, back to driving my wife nuts with my 7.1:1 medium heavy fast mumbling.
Edit: not sure if this will help or not but I am a Pond fisherman, currently no boat so my fishing is from the bank, not sure that matters on length but some videos I'd seen had mentioned around 7' being ideal, but I did notice some rods are longer like 7'10" not sure if those would be hard to use around the banks or not.
Edit #2, I may have stumbled upon some help, for the other newbies like me out there:
http://*/fishing/articles/beginning-bass-fishing/matching-your-rods-reels-and-line/
Yeah I'm a couple years into really loving fishing and all the different ideas and had your same questions and I'm not any genius or expert and may be proven wrong by someone who's been around the block a few times.
But I do strictly bank fish and will offer my opinion.
"I'm kinda wanting to get a Lew's Super Duty Speed Spool SD1XH 8.0:1 but have no clue what rod I should look to pair it with, I'm assuming I'd be using the 8.0:1 for swim baits and frogs (correct?) so would I want another 7' rod and if so what action?"
I'd want a softer tip so i can work and present those baits correctly. I hate working moving Swimbsits and topwater with a super stiff rod.
1) In general I'd explain my rod as a 6'6 MH fast. Medium heavy has to do with the back bone or strength of rod and fast would mean your rod tip isn't stiff. I'm not good enough or wealthy enough to buy combos for every single style. But 7.1 ratio is plenty for most everything.
2) Bank fishing usually can mean ur in close quarters with trees, bushs, etc... so if u have a 7'6 rod ur going to be limited in spots you can pitch and flip. I use a lews speed spool also that's 7.1 paired with a Versitas 2.0 6'6 MH fast tip. I've caught multiple fish over 4 or 5 pounds thru vegetation easily. Im very comfortable with any bait except really cranking but don't do much of it. I began with a 7'6 rod and couldnt do anything productive from the bank except cast to the middle. I'd own a longer rod if I fished in a boat and didn't worry about branches and snags and if my cast might nip this limb....etc
3- If your frog fishing, jiggin, etc... the 8.1 could help depending on your reaction to a strike...I'd recommend a softer tip unless ur pulling hogs out of a bunch of hydrilla or something all day
On 2/5/2014 at 3:37 AM, roadwarrior said:For enthusiasts, technique specific gear is fun
to collect. However, three rigs cover all the
basics:
#1 6 1/2' or 7' MHF baitcaster for jigs, some
soft plastics and spinnerbaits
#2 6 1/2' or 7' MM baitcaster for treble hook
lures
#3 7' MF spinning rod for lighter lures and a
variety of techniques
In scenario 2, what gear ratio would you use? Everything I’ve read says 5:1 for crankbaits but this category includes other treble hook lures like poppers and jerkbaits. Would you use a 6.3:1 or greater and just slow your retrieve for crankbaits?
On 2/24/2014 at 10:44 PM, Felix77 said:The RW trio is spot on! ... Here is my "base" set
#1 6 1/2' MH baitcaster for jigs, spinnerbaits, walk to the dog baits, flippin and pitchin moderate cover etc.
#2 7' MM baitcaster for treble hook lures (square bills, jerkbaits, lipless CB's, poppers)
#3 6'9" MF spinning rod (weightless senko, drop shot, mojo rig, lighter lures like the KVD 1.0 Squares)
What gear ratio do you use for #1?
Do you use crankbaits with #2 and just slow your retrieve?
I personally prefer a fast reel (between 7:1 and 9:1) for everything besides big cranks. For those I like a 5.6:1 or so, which gives better leverage for pulling high resistance bait.
I have no idea what rod to get. I just got a Curado 200 K and I want a versatile rod. I want to fish spinnerbaits, plastics, topwaters, shallow cranks, chatterbaits, jigs, and swimbaits. My price range is less than $150. Any ideas?
On 5/27/2014 at 10:27 AM, BasshunterJGH said:I like 4 combos: one 7 ft med light spinning for finesse worms and jerk baits, one 7 ft med hvy fast action casting for jig and worm, one 7 ft med mod action for crankbaits, and one 7 ft 3 in or 6 in hvy or mag hvy for flipping, pitching, frogging and small swim baits
Which of this rigs would you use for top water? I see you have the last one for frogging. Also what does mag hvy mean? Cheers ????
This is the budget anglers 3 rod system for cheap effective and long lasting gear.
If you want all purpose rigs the 6'6" M action F tip with a 6.2:1 reel with 8lb Trilene XL(best casting distance for the price) is for everything which you have, so two things a stout 7' Medium Heavy action Fast tip rod with a 7.1:1-6.2:1 reel ratio baitcaster with 12lb Berkeley Big Game mono(or flouro but this is cheap it works fantastic and lasts longer). This rod covers jigs, worms, spinnerbaits, smaller swimbaits, bigger jerkbaits and more, but can be used for frogs, flipping and pitching light cover if you want to swing that way(joke intended) until you want to upgrade to a 7'6" Heavy action Xtra fast tip for the 2oz artillery weights for really punching through thick grass. And after that personally I would recommend a 7' Medium Heavy action Moderate tip for crankbaits and a few odd baits. With a 5.4:1 gear baitcaster spooled with 10-12lb FLOUROCARBON(absolute must for deep crankbaits).
S 6'6" M action F tip with a 6.2:1 6-10lb(8 is best from much experience)
C 7' Medium Heavy action Fast tip 7.1:1-6.2:1 10-12lb
C 7' Medium Heavy action Moderate 5.4:1 10-12lb
Now the crankbait rod can be a Medium action but if you plan to throw any crankbait deeper than 12ft or a squarebill over an ounce then stay with the MH or else you will have a workout and possibly break a rod or reel(strips the drag). So initially a Med. Mod isnt advised. Moveover, look for a very "noodley" rod with a very moderate tip but with a decent backbone so you can fish smaller cranks and not have them pop out and fly toward your face. All this being said I reccomend
Lews Laser MG Speed Spool baitcasters
they run about $80 but are hands down the best bang for your buck reel in the medium price range of $50-100 and they last forever.
For the rods I reccomend
Lews David Fritts Perfect Crankbait rod
also $80 (they actually have a new combo out called the Crankback for $100 with the right reel instead of a $160 set up) They are very limber, light and set hooks very well again a great bang for your buck.
Lastly an Abu Garcia Vendetta 7' MH Ftip rod is very stiff, has a solid backbone and if you catch it right you can get them for $30 but normally about $70.
All of these rods will fish pretty much anything you want besides alabama rigs. The spinning and the worm rod are really all you need but if you like crankbaits at all and will fish for hours at a time, if you have the money just get a crankbait rod they help so much and make it more fun instead of a chore.
This is all suggestions and just an opinion. Hope that I helped.
-Will
Oh great.... now I’m wondering if my newbie setup is all messed up. (found the site a few weeks too late evidently). Here’s what I have and now I’m wondering if I need to switch applications or rods and reels... or what my next set up should be.
1st rod I got is Berkeley Cherrywood HD 7’ MHF with an Abu Garcia ProMax 7.1:1 that I put 12 lb Trilene XT on for my flipping, pitching, and skipping rod (when what I am capable of doing is worthy of being called any of the three).
2nd rod ended up becoming a 7’1” Cabelas Tournament ZX MHF with an Abu Garcia 3rd gen Revo SX 6.4 with 12# Trilene Big game for my spinnerbaits, chatterbaits, and crankbaits. (Long story short ... the Revo was discontinued and in the bargain cave for $70 and I couldn’t say eno... was planning on a lews speed spool 5.4:1 with a 7’2” mhef when I went in.)
Should i I switch applications or swap reels on the rods? What should my next setup be?
and I’m still trying to figure out the baitcasters which is why they both have mono on them at the moment.
New to the baitcasting world, and it was suggested to me to get these four rod/reel combos to start out with. I'm going with $200 rod/reel combos, going to invest in one combo at a time with each paycheck. What do you guys think?
1. 7’6” - 8’ Heavy Fast + 7.1 casting reel with 65lb braid
- flipping n pitching/ frog/punching/jigs - all the nasty stuff
- Shimano Exage Casting Rod 7'6" Heavy Fast Action $99.99
- Shimano Casitas 150 Casting Reel 7.2:1 $99.99
2. 7’-7’4” Med Heavy + 7:1 casting reel with 17-20lb FC
a. football jigs/t-rigs/c-rigs/jigs/worming/spinnerbaits/ chatterbaits - open water/ dock fishing/ laydowns
- Dobyns Fury 733C 7 ft. 3 in. Medium Heavy Fast Action $109.99
or
- Shimano Exage Casting Rod 7'2" Med Heavy Fast Action $99.99
- Shimano Casitas 150 Casting Reel 7.2:1 $99.99
3. 7’-7’6” Med Heavy Mod + 5:1 casting reel with 10-12 lb FC
- cranking medium divers to deep divers
- Shimano Exage Casting Rod 7'6" Heavy Moderate Action $99.99
- Abu Garcia Ora 2 Winch 5:4:1 $99.95
4. 7’ Medium Fast + 6:1 casting reel with 12lb FC
- Squarebills/shallow divers/jerkbaits
- Shimano Exage Casting Rod 7'2" Medium Fast Action $99.99
- Shimano CAS151 Casting Reel 6.3:1 $99.99
Thinking of getting the flipping/pitching combo first so I can practice casting in my backyard. In my area (Upstate NY), I'll probably be using the jerkbait rod and the spinnerbait rods the most, but I'll definitely be putting the other two to good use. Lots of areas to punch around here, some of my local lakes guys only do well punching, same with the Hudson River I think. Hopefully, it'll open up a lot more fishing for me!
On 1/16/2018 at 7:09 AM, TylerT123 said:I have no idea what rod to get. I just got a Curado 200 K and I want a versatile rod. I want to fish spinnerbaits, plastics, topwaters, shallow cranks, chatterbaits, jigs, and swimbaits. My price range is less than $150. Any ideas?
A 7’ M/F or MH/F that feels good in your hands is a good start. $150’s gonna get you a very nice rod.
I own a long list of brands but in your price range, Abu Garcia Veritas and Fenwick Elite Tech top the list. The Veritas fish a little heavier than their rating and the Fenwicks have great, sensitive, tips.
Go to your local shops and handle as many brands as possible. The subjective feel is 90% of your fishing experience.
Best of luck.
On 5/7/2018 at 4:44 AM, DogBone_384 said:A 7’ M/F or MH/F that feels good in your hands is a good start. $150’s gonna get you a very nice rod.
I own a long list of brands but in your price range, Abu Garcia Veritas and Fenwick Elite Tech top the list. The Veritas fish a little heavier than their rating and the Fenwicks have great, sensitive, tips.
Go to your local shops and handle as many brands as possible. The subjective feel is 90% of your fishing experience.
Best of luck.
I’m thinking a Dobyns Fury.
What applications can you cover with a 6ft casting rod?
Also, considering a 7ft MH Fast action casting rod. What applications can you cover with it?
I have seen 1,2,and 3 piece rods, do you lose any backbone with the multiple piece rods?
And now for a reel to cover multiple applications, I was thinking 6.1:1.
Tight budget here so I am pretty much looking for 1 setup that I can do the most with Thanks
On 5/10/2014 at 5:59 PM, roadwarrior said:MM = Medium Power/ Moderate Action
What 7' MM Baitcasting rods do you like? I'm looking to stay under $140. Thx
https://www.lamiglas.com/collections/xp-bass
or
https://www.google.com/search?rlz=1CAFQZI_enUS802&q=ardent+denny+brauer+crankbait+rod&spell=1&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjN5uP73fTdAhWGvVMKHWEqBJQQBQgqKAA&biw=1366&bih=592
I fish almost exclusively for smallmouth and rock bass in the streams in the Smoky Mountains with small crank baits and jigs. The fish here are usually on the small side. So, I use ultra lite spinning gear. My favorite rod for these small fish is a vintage Berkley Cherrywood 5 1/2'.
Joe
Like most have said I think 6 rod/reel setups will suit most of everyones needs. I think you will find that the real issue with getting the proper setup is line preference. Sometimes I need mono...sometimes fluorocarbon....sometimes braid, it really depends on the situation. For instance, I have three or 4 texas rigs ret up at all times: 65 lb braid, 20 lb fluoro, 17 lb fluoro, etc. Yes I could get by with 1 rod rigged with 20lb fluorocarbon but it is not always ideal for each situation. Maybe you could just have a few reels rigged up with different lines to swap out while on the water, but if you are a tournament fisherman every cast counts and that would surely waste valuable time.
@roadwarrior I’m looking to end up with about 5 setups. I fish in Illinois for largemouth and smallmouth. What would you recommend each be and what would you throw on each?
Thanks!
Has anyone ever used KastKing rods? I’m thinking of picking up a couple of them. I have one of their spinning reels and I like it. I was thinking of getting a couple rods and a baitcaster and spinning. I’m trying to downsize my collection of crappy combos and get nicer but affordable new ones. Thank you!!
On 12/8/2018 at 2:13 AM, Rockula said:Has anyone ever used KastKing rods? I’m thinking of picking up a couple of them. I have one of their spinning reels and I like it. I was thinking of getting a couple rods and a baitcaster and spinning. I’m trying to downsize my collection of crappy combos and get nicer but affordable new ones. Thank you!!
I have the KK twin tip 7' casting rod (M/MH) and 6'7 M/F spinning rod. I like them both, but really like the 6'7 for $42 (sale price). I tried to pair a KK Centron 2000 with the 6'7, but felt the build quality was not great. For a little more money I like Pflueger President spinning reels.
I returned a KK Speed Demon 6'8 Jerkbait casting rod, only because I found the handle length longer than my liking, but the build quality was good, no idea about sensitivity though.
Hey guys,
I am am thinking about purchasing a new casting rod for all-around use. Something under $120. I have minimal knowledge about casting rods, and overwhelmed by all of the choices. Any recommendations? Anyone like Lews Tournament Performance Tp1 Speed Stick? Any suggestions/reviews are appriciated. Thank you.
Well i can tell this is mostly northern angler thread.
I agree that pros tend to tell us we need rods for every purpose. Got to promote those sponsors.
I can get it by with 3 but 6 is more like it.
Only three phosphate pit fishing
1. 6'6" medium , fast action spinning
2. 6'6" heavy, fast action
3. 6'6" medium heavy, moderate composite graphite or fiberglass.
Lots of skipping lures and precise target work.
If im working
Any large natural lakes
Then
Up to 7 ft
However
3 additional rods
Flipping stick 7'11" xxh, moderate fast
7'6" heavy jig ( emergent pads reeds etc. ) 7'11 heavy, moderate composite crank stick
On 12/25/2018 at 10:13 AM, tw3aker said:Well i can tell this is mostly northern angler thread.
I agree that pros tend to tell us we need rods for every purpose. Got to promote those sponsors.
I can get it by with 3 but 6 is more like it.
Only three phosphate pit fishing
1. 6'6" medium , fast action spinning
2. 6'6" heavy, fast action
3. 6'6" medium heavy, moderate composite graphite or fiberglass.
Lots of skipping lures and precise target work.
If im working
Any large natural lakes
Then
Up to 7 ft
However
3 additional rods
Flipping stick 7'11" xxh, moderate fast
7'6" heavy jig ( emergent pads reeds etc. ) 7'11 heavy, moderate composite crank stick
Good point. The rod selection really depends on the size of the fish and the density of the cover in the lakes you fish . Rod setups will be a completely different fishing Lake Sinclair and Chickamauga Lake. Lakes with heavy laydowns, dense mats and big bass will require a stronger outfit. Using a heavy outfit in the SW Ohio reservoirs is overkill and takes away from the experience. Heck in the Chesapeake Bay we pull 40" Stripers with ML rods becasuse there is no cover. RoadWarriors suggestion for a three rod setup covers a lot of bases but everyone has to adapt their individual needs based on their preferred lakes. I'm in the camp with Road Warrior in that I like to keep it simple.
So I have way more rods/reels than I need or can even manage. I’m making a focused effort to do a better job and keep my boat less cluttered. What I have finally settled on is an approach that I am finding works well for me.
On my my last trip I put the 4-5 casting rods I like best and my two best spinning rods in my small rod locker. These are just rods, no reels. I then fill up a pistol case with a big assortment of my favorite reels loaded with a variety of different weights and types of line. The reels stay in the truck or hotel while traveling, so that has the added advantage of minimizing loss should someone break into my rod locker.
Once I’m on the water I mix and match reels and rods as desired to give me the ideal combo. I’m sure others have done this but it’s new to me and so far as haven’t found a down side.
Something I have never understood, and I've looked all over the web for the answer...Why do rod manufacturers and even the retailers confuse a Rod' action with its power?
The industry defined a long time ago these 2 terms. We all know what they mean. So why does the equipment industry continue to mix up these two basic characteristics?
As an example, you can go on Gander outdoors website right now and try to search for a rod using their filtering options. When you select the drop down list for the "Action" filter, it lists "Heavy, Medium Heavy, Medium, Light, ultra light".
?????
Those are Powers!!! Not actions!!!
I can go to any fishing retailer, an actual store or online, and look at the rods they have for sale. I will guarantee you that at least half of them list something on the side like: "Medium Heavy Action". Or they will just say "Medium Heavy".
This is beyond frustrating.
To me, it's like shopping for a new sportscar. I ask the salesman: "How fast is this car...like, what is the speed performance like?" Meaning, "top MPH", "1/4 mile time", "0-60 time"...etc.
The salesman says: "Oh, it weighs 3800 pounds".
Or...maybe (a little closer) the salesman says: "Oh, it has 260 horse power".
Ummm… Great! Good, interesting information...But that is NOT what I asked!
That is exactly what it feels like when I am rod shopping!
Makes me insane!!
Words have meanings!
Let's all try to stay on the same dictionary..huh?!
Would like to know what those soft white rods the pros are all using are made of? Jimmyjigs
Last month this July I caught a 8lb, 5lb, 4lb largemouth bass on a cheap Daiwa rod that is easy 20 years old and a 60.00 dollar Shamano quick draw spinning reel, my daughter gave me the reel a couple of years back for my birthday. Fishing is technique and baits, not reels and rods. It's nice to have really good gear, but no matter what you say it will not necessarily catch more fish for ya, it might boost your confidence, but you ought to already be confident without thousands of dollars of fishing stuff. One nice rod in the midrange power, same for reel, learn to fish the baits and the technique you used to catch the fish! Thats called a pattern and it works always (if the fish are biting). I've seen men catch a bunch of fish out of lakes and rivers with nothing but plain fishing line and a hook rolled up on a stick.
On 8/21/2019 at 12:52 AM, Bigassbass said:Last month this July I caught a 8lb, 5lb, 4lb largemouth bass on a cheap Daiwa rod that is easy 20 years old and a 60.00 dollar Shamano quick draw spinning reel, my daughter gave me the reel a couple of years back for my birthday. Fishing is technique and baits, not reels and rods. It's nice to have really good gear, but no matter what you say it will not necessarily catch more fish for ya, it might boost your confidence, but you ought to already be confident without thousands of dollars of fishing stuff. One nice rod in the midrange power, same for reel, learn to fish the baits and the technique you used to catch the fish! Thats called a pattern and it works always (if the fish are biting). I've seen men catch a bunch of fish out of lakes and rivers with nothing but plain fishing line and a hook rolled up on a stick.
I've caught fish on a cane pole. I don't think that's a relevant point to the discussion, however.
It would be hard to argue against my thoughts that there are a number of factors or attributes that can be found in more expensive gear that very well might translate to more or bigger fish:
-Quality drag
-Rod Sensitivity
-Rod characteristics that match the intended lures
-Rod (and even reel) weight and balance
-Brake system that can be adequately adjusted to suit you
I'm not totally discounting your point that @Catt frequently makes about the most important equipment being between your ears....but I also don't think it can be discounted that some aspects of the gear can be important.
Yes I agree totally, it's sad that fishing gear is hard to sale or at least cheap fishing gear. I use to buy bunches of stuff until I ran out of room to store it, now I try and spend time fishing instead of collecting. Just saying and hey to each his own whatever wiggles your worm.
I just got a Dobyns Fury 703, 7 ft MH Fast action for Worms, Texas Rigs, Jigs, etc.. and I also ordered a Shimano SLX combo in the 7'2" MF Xtra Fast Action for a little bit heavier single hook baits, both baitcasters
But my question is about my other setups, I usually kayak fish and like shorter rods, so I have a 6 ft Medium Ugly Stik GX2 baitcaster and a 6 ft Medium Fast Action Spinning Rod. But I've been doing a lot more bank fishing this year with the rivers being so low and often too much wind for lake kayaking. I would like to use the Ugly Stick Gx2 as a crankbait rod cuz it does have some decent bend to it and I've caught a lot of fish on it already from the kayak, and I'd like to use the 6 ft spinning rod for my lighter lures. But would it be a good idea to get longer rods for bank fishing or would I be ok with those 6ft rods?
I also have a 6'10 Lews Speed stick that is Medium Fast Action, but it's really stiff and seems more like a xtra fast, but it actually says it's for crankbaits, topwater, and small spinnerbaits, but it seems to fish plastics better, wouldn't you agree it's more suited for single hooks? And could it also be a jerkbait rod or is the stiffness in the tip not good for those?
Hey bassresources crew how's it going. I had a question and I'm wondering if someone can help me out. Im fairly new to the fishing game but I've always been interested ever since I was a little boy. I was just wondering for me first starting out which rod should I use? I was looking at a couple on Ebay and I've narrowed the list down to 3 I think might be ok to use but I'd really like someone's opinion. Also RW you seem to be pretty knowledgeable sir feel free to chime in I'd love your opinion. So I've been looking at these three here:
●Scott TIDAL Fly Rod • 9 Weight, 9 Ft, 4 pc
●KastKing Royale Legend Casting & Spinning Fishing Rod 1 & 2 pc Bass Fishing Pole
●KastKing Speed Demon Pro Tournament Series Fishing Rods - 1Pc Spinning & Casting
If anyone has a review to give on any of these rods please let me know i would greatly appreciate it! I plan on taking my boys fishing soon before it starts to get really cold over here in Virginia.
Thanks
https://www.bassresource.com/bass_fishing_123/kastking-speed-demon-rods-3818.html
On 10/17/2019 at 7:42 PM, roadwarrior said:https://www.bassresource.com/bass_fishing_123/kastking-speed-demon-rods-3818.html
You da man! Great recommendation I'm gonna get this one!
On 2/5/2014 at 3:37 AM, roadwarrior said:For enthusiasts, technique specific gear is fun
to collect. However, three rigs cover all the
basics:
#1 6 1/2' or 7' MHF baitcaster for jigs, some
soft plastics and spinnerbaits
#2 6 1/2' or 7' MM baitcaster for treble hook
lures
#3 7' MF spinning rod for lighter lures and a
variety of techniques
Any thoughts on the aird-x casting rods. Looking to get my first baitcaster and mainly throw baits around 1/4oz any suggestions? Thanks
On 12/17/2019 at 4:29 AM, Steve S said:Any thoughts on the aird-x casting rods. Looking to get my first baitcaster and mainly throw baits around 1/4oz any suggestions? Thanks
Personally, I have trouble casting 1/4oz squarebills on my 7' MHF Aird-X, but it's doable. I imagine the 6'6" and 7' MF could do it pretty well.
Keep in mind that after you add lead or tungsten to many soft plastic presentations as well as the plastic itself you've typically exceeded 1/4oz by quite a few fractions. A senko, for instance, is a heavy bait, so keep that in mind when you're selecting your Aird-X. They're fine rods, an excellent budget offering, and I own two. They're good sticks for moving baits but I would put braid on whatever reel you're using if it's for bottom contact. The sensitivity has been pretty poor in my opinion.
Your mileage may vary.
On 12/17/2019 at 4:29 AM, Steve S said:Any thoughts on the aird-x casting rods. Looking to get my first baitcaster and mainly throw baits around 1/4oz any suggestions? Thanks
I've got three Aird-X's - 6'6" M/F, 7' MH/F and 7'H/F. They do what I ask them to and have enough sensitivity for me.
For the 1/4 oz lures I'd go with a M/F - 6'6" or 7'...your preference on length.
On 10/17/2019 at 10:49 AM, Fishing guy 77 said:Hey bassresources crew how's it going. I had a question and I'm wondering if someone can help me out. Im fairly new to the fishing game but I've always been interested ever since I was a little boy. I was just wondering for me first starting out which rod should I use? I was looking at a couple on Ebay and I've narrowed the list down to 3 I think might be ok to use but I'd really like someone's opinion. Also RW you seem to be pretty knowledgeable sir feel free to chime in I'd love your opinion. So I've been looking at these three here:
●Scott TIDAL Fly Rod • 9 Weight, 9 Ft, 4 pc
●KastKing Royale Legend Casting & Spinning Fishing Rod 1 & 2 pc Bass Fishing Pole
●KastKing Speed Demon Pro Tournament Series Fishing Rods - 1Pc Spinning & Casting
If anyone has a review to give on any of these rods please let me know i would greatly appreciate it! I plan on taking my boys fishing soon before it starts to get really cold over here in Virginia.
Thanks
I use Speed Demon pro's, rods and reels.....good stuff.
On 12/17/2019 at 4:43 AM, MN Fisher said:I've got three Aird-X's - 6'6" M/F, 7' MH/F and 7'H/F. They do what I ask them to and have enough sensitivity for me.
For the 1/4 oz lures I'd go with a M/F - 6'6" or 7'...your preference on length.
At what point would you bump up to the Medium Heavy?
On 12/17/2019 at 5:08 AM, Steve S said:At what point would you bump up to the Medium Heavy?
About the 1/2-5/8 oz mark - total weight...a 3/8 swim jig with skirt and trailer would be about 1/2 oz or so.
On 12/17/2019 at 5:08 AM, Steve S said:At what point would you bump up to the Medium Heavy?
3/8oz with my Fuegos that are on my Aird-Xs.
On 8/28/2014 at 11:47 PM, Kiett said:Wow no one is a fan of ML rods? Over the years I've slowly moved down from MH rods to ML. I mainly fish everything from senkos, rooster tails, to rattle traps.
My current set up is 6.6ft MLF St.Croix Legend Elite 3000/ stradic ci4+ with 20lb PP (gonna put 10lb PP soon)
Flukemaster said something great in a video that really hit home with me and that was that “the best rod for you depends on what baits you like to fish” I really like to fish Ned rigs so like you a Med Light rod would probably be a great choice but a Med Fast spinning rod would probably cover more overall light weight techniques. So far I have a light and Med action spinning rod and just got a Med Heavy baitcaster (starting to understand why people enjoy them so much). The funny part is that the Med and Med heavy rods are twice the price of my light ugly stick but I just really enjoy throwing Ned rigs on it.
Anyone have thoughts on the Daiwa Aird-X 6’6” Med light spinning for a Ned rig rod (1/16 jigs)
On 1/29/2020 at 4:40 AM, Steve S said:Anyone have thoughts on the Daiwa Aird-X 6’6” Med light spinning for a Ned rig rod (1/16 jigs)
Considering that by the time the TRD or whatever trailer you're using is on, it's going to be above that 1/8 bottom end of the rod...I think it would do fine.
The rod I had been using for finesse - including Ned - was rated 1/8-5/8, so the Aird-X tops out a little lighter...but not an issue,