I'm an owner of mostly mid-priced rods. Which I consider about $150 or so.
Has anyone owned and used both really expensive ($300-$600) rods as well as mid priced rods and can compare them on sensitivity? Are they 2-3x as sensitive? I'm not talking about build quality or lightness, just raw fish bite detection.
I'm really looking for an unbiased judgement. I realize there's a ton of good reasons pay for the pricier gear beyond sensitivity, I'm just trying to gauge for myself if I should pay 2x+ the price for my worm/jig/flip rods where I want sensitivity to catch more fish.
Owners of the pricier rods, would you deem them essential for yourself and your fishing performance, or a nice-to-be-able-to-afford-quality kind of thing?
My Bass Pro Shops Cranking Stick has more sensitivity than any other cranking stick I have, including my G. Loomis crankbait rod.
Go figure.
I can't really give you an honest answer about the mid priced rod vs expensive rod but I can tell you that there is absolutely no need to pay 2x the price. If you can be happy with used but not abused, there are deals to be had on high end rods.
One word answer, necessary? NO! I posted before on another topic, I am neither here nor there on sensitivity. But I find the higher priced rods are usually a lot lighter, and I enjoy fishing with them. My opinion, if you want a sensitive, lightweight rod at a modest price, take a look at the BPS Carbonlite. Awesome rod.
Hootie
Lots of factors to consider. How you fish is a big part of that. I fish mostly bottom contact baits in often deeper water. So sensitivity is a big deal for me. I used to dismiss the high end rods thinking they couldn't be THAT much better. I had a lot of trouble justifying my first GLX Loomis rod. It was tough to spend that kind of money on it. But it really was a game changer over my older, mid-priced Shimano sticks. Increased my fish catching quite a bit. Fishing with the same guys in the same spots, my catch rate really went up.
Now I have no internal struggles at all when buying high end rods. I KNOW they're worth it for me.
The NRX was another step up from there sensitivity-wise. Incredible rods. See if you can find one used. If you fish a lot of bottom contact stuff, I bet it'll be a game changer for you.
In my experience, yes and no. Someone else's maybe not. My 745 DX is the most sensitive rod I've ever had. Compared to my 160 dollar Crucial, it's only a tad more. Just a tad though. Now compared to my GL2 200 dollar rod, it's night and day difference.
Higher price doesn't just mean more sensitive. Things like better paint, guides, grips, better balanced and better warranties all factor in on cost. Generally the more expensive the rod, the better the warranty.
My 745 balances perfect where as my St. Croix MoJo has good sensitivity but balances like a druken elephant. Now it's actually 1/2 oz lighter too.
On 10/5/2013 at 6:33 PM, rockchalk06 said:In my experience, yes and no. Someone else's maybe not. My 745 DX is the most sensitive rod I've ever had. Compared to my 160 dollar Crucial, it's only a tad more. Just a tad though. Now compared to my GL2 200 dollar rod, it's night and day difference.
Higher price doesn't just mean more sensitive. Things like better paint, guides, grips, better balanced and better warranties all factor in on cost. Generally the more expensive the rod, the better the warranty.
My 745 balances perfect where as my St. Croix MoJo has good sensitivity but balances like a druken elephant. Now it's actually 1/2 oz lighter too.
Have you ever tried / heard of rod butt weights? A guide I went with in Florida showed me a butt cap with some washers in it that he swore balanced out his rod and saved his wrists and tendinitis. I've heard the balance issue talked about a lot on forums, and I'm wondering if some of these folks thought of that when a good rod was out of balance. I've been meaning to try it myself lately since I have a rod or two thats a bit tip heavy.
I like a quality rod for bottom contact fishing, such as c-rigging and t-rigging. Is an NRX more sensitive than a mid-range rod by a factor of X2? I can't without doing a side by side test with similar lines, reels, weights, etc. But I can say that an NRX or GLX at least as far as the bottom contact rods, are very sensitive and are fun to fish with.
I also won't pay full retail for an NRX or GLX. Not that I'm critical of those who do, but either wait for a sale, or check E-bay and the fishing site want ads. You can get some really great deals if you are patient and shop around. Very important also to get the original receipt or a wild card if you go the NRX or GLX route.
As far as moving baits like cranks, sensitivity isn't an issue for me, I just want something that is light, loads up well for a casting a crank that is in the rods weight range, and has a soft tip for hook setting and keeping the fish on.
Line type is also important when it comes to sensitivity.
the biggest increase in sensitivity comes from line.you can buy a falcon buccoo micro for 130 and put braid on it and have all the sensitivity you need at under 4 oz for the rod.i'm not saying high end rods are not nice but they are not necessary.
I don't think higher priced rods do have better warranties. Case in point from 2 manufacturers, probably others as well, Any Shimano or Star rod with a lifetime warranty is over the counter exchange regardless of the initial price of the rod. IMO those warranties are the best, quite often the rod is in stock with no waiting and no shipping expense.
I agree about feeling the bite more with the line, although most of what I catch give a pretty good slam.
I agree! I think besides rod strength line sensitivity is more important because I hold the line with my finger while I'm fishing and feel everything. Honestly the most expensive rod I have is 50 dollars. That works for me.
I get by fine with mid priced rods. I have fished with high end rods though, and if I had the money or fished professionally I would have a few for bottom contact baits. While they are not necessary, they do make a difference in sensitivity and comfort.
I have two rods I'll compare, an *** and an champion extreme, both I can easily detect a bite, but where the champ extreme shines over the *** is with feeling what's on bottom, I can feel the bottom pretty good with the ***, but the champ extreme is a lot more crisp. It's easier to tell when you have something stuck on your bait, when you hit sand bar or gravel, little things like that that make finding the fish easier.
But in reality, I think it's more of a mental thing, because my dad can catch just as many fish as me on his $40 walmart special.
Sensitivity strarts in the hands & continues up to the brain.
I've fished everything from Fenwick's first graphite to the top of the line G. Loomis. I currently fish Shimano Crucial which I find every bit as sensitive as any.
Let me explain it this way!
I could put any high end reel on any high end rod, spool it with braid for maximum sensitivity, tie on a Texas rig & then give it to my wife.
She could not "feel" any difference if I had rigged it up on a Berkley Lightening rod!
Why? Cause what is transmitted up the line, down the rod, through the hands will be lost in the brain.
She doesn't fish & would not be able to interpret what she is feeling.
Even for the average angler a certain amount of "sensitivity" is lost in the brain.
On 10/5/2013 at 11:13 PM, Catt said:Sensitivity strarts in the hands & continues up to the brain.
I've fished everything from Fenwick's first graphite to the top of the line G. Loomis. I currently fish Shimano Crucial which I find every bit as sensitive as any.
Let me explain it this way!
I could put any high end reel on any high end rod, spool it with braid for maximum sensitivity, tie on a Texas rig & then give it to my wife.
She could not "feel" any difference if I had rigged it up on a Berkley Lightening rod!
Why? Cause what is transmitted up the line, down the rod, through the hands will be lost in the brain.
She doesn't fish & would not be able to interpret what she is feeling.
Even for the average angler a certain amount of "sensitivity" is lost in the brain.
Couldn't of said it better myself, but knowing that I'm still a sucker for high end rods.
"Sensitivity" has been discussed over and over and over and over again, and what we call sensitivity is broken these factors:
Measurable
1.- Physical vibration transmiting properties of the materials used to manufacture the rod, here we come to the point where there are materials better for transmiting vibrations than others, ex: graphite is better than fiberglass
2.- Rod construction, design and it´s components
3.- Not everything is in the rod, we forget that line is also part of the equation and that certain materials transmit better vibrations, ex: FC is better than Nylon
Unmeasurable
4.- The tricky part is number 4, and that is you, Catt mentioned: it starts in the hands and ends up in the brain. That is the tricky part because there are anatomical and physiological functions which are involved in the detection and interpretation by the brain that are very hard or nearly impossible to measure, you can´t measure perception because it is subjective.
That being said, I´m not able to "feel" the difference sensitivity wise between, for example, an IMX and a GLX, a lot of guys may feel the difference but I don´t. So when it comes to "justify" paying 100+ bucks more I don´t think I will, now, would I spend 4 or 500 dollars in a Megabass rod or spend that money in a custom built rod ? if I have the money then why not ?
As others have said, a lot depend on how much you fish, experience etc. I can say that my dx's are more sensitive than any 100 dollar rod I've fished, and I have owned most in that range. When I was down in Virginia we were using Carolina rigs a lot. Fluoro wasn't getting bit but my guide was using mono and killing them. I out mono on my dx and could still feel a lot more on the bottom than some cheaper rods with fluoro..they are that crisp and sensitive
To go against the high dollar point, I recently purchased a steez flipping stick and found it to be no more sensitive and much less balanced than my champion 736c but more than double the price. Turned around and sold it almost immediately even though I really wanted to like it.
Works pretty much the same way as talking with 2 tin cans and a string. The tighter the string the better, different types of string will affect the quality of the sound as well. The fish touches the bait, the vibration is sent up the line, the rod does not touch the water or the fish. Whether it's a slight twitch or a hard jerk a PHD or a degree in engineering is not required to know what you are feeling. I don't think it's any more complicated than that.
On 10/5/2013 at 11:13 PM, Catt said:Sensitivity strarts in the hands & continues up to the brain.
I've fished everything from Fenwick's first graphite to the top of the line G. Loomis. I currently fish Shimano Crucial which I find every bit as sensitive as any.
Let me explain it this way!
I could put any high end reel on any high end rod, spool it with braid for maximum sensitivity, tie on a Texas rig & then give it to my wife.
She could not "feel" any difference if I had rigged it up on a Berkley Lightening rod!
Why? Cause what is transmitted up the line, down the rod, through the hands will be lost in the brain.
She doesn't fish & would not be able to interpret what she is feeling.
Even for the average angler a certain amount of "sensitivity" is lost in the brain.
this 100x
You definitely reach a point of diminishing returns VERY quickly when spending all that money.
I've said it before but I'll say it again. My kistler KLX is every bit the rod my Dobyns DX744 is. I think with a lot of higher priced rods the price has a lot to do with support. The 60 dollar replacement offered by dobyns is pretty amazing!
i jumped from mid to higher end rods this season and while i did gain some sensitivity (10-20%) i don't think its worth it over all. i use braid to fluoro on most of my rigs which adds a ton of sensitivity to average rods.
plus some of the high end rods had major down falls i didn't like ie the guides do not 'work' well with braid=it tangles horribly around the top three guides. i'm surprised they aren't designed to better work with braid. some aren't balanced well. some high end rods have handles that are just too short. so i prefer to fish with most of my mid range over the high end.
i'm a huge fan of powell's which have the best of all worlds-sensitivity, balance, guides that work well with multiple lines, warranty. i also really like my fenwick tech smallmouth for $129. its sensitive, ultra light, balanced and love the handle. it feels better than a $385 rod. i just got a shimano compre off a member and it has really impressed me.
if you want to test 'high end' rods just buy them on sale ie discontinued or when they upgrade their line. st croix has a bargain room and rods are 40% off when they roll out a new line. TW also has Dobyns Champion for $185 during upgrades.
i thought i was going to be happy with more sensitivity but overall it's not worth it if the rod is miserable to cast ie isn't balanced, constantly gets tangled and the handle is too short for ur taste.
Ive found a nice medium at the 150-200 mark. I may be losing some sensitivity, but not enough to justify sending another 100-200 dollars. Personally, I dont feel like I could ever justify spending 400 or so dollars on a rod (or reel) if im not fishing to make a living. I catch fish just fine on my current rigs and I enjoy fishing them. If you like higher end rods and you can afford them, great. I know plenty of guys do. Just not for me.
On 10/5/2013 at 6:29 PM, jeb2 said:Lots of factors to consider. How you fish is a big part of that. I fish mostly bottom contact baits in often deeper water. So sensitivity is a big deal for me. I used to dismiss the high end rods thinking they couldn't be THAT much better. I had a lot of trouble justifying my first GLX Loomis rod. It was tough to spend that kind of money on it. But it really was a game changer over my older, mid-priced Shimano sticks. Increased my fish catching quite a bit. Fishing with the same guys in the same spots, my catch rate really went up.
Now I have no internal struggles at all when buying high end rods. I KNOW they're worth it for me.
The NRX was another step up from there sensitivity-wise. Incredible rods. See if you can find one used. If you fish a lot of bottom contact stuff, I bet it'll be a game changer for you.
I think I definitely would go for a few of the higher priced, better quality rods in my arsenal if I could.
Earlier this year I realized that the biggest impact to improve my fishing would be to have MORE rods, than fewer higher QUALITY rods. Right now I'm trying to get better at patterning the fish, and quickly switching tactics and colors with more rods would have the biggest impact for me.
So far I've got about 10 rods I rig up and bring with me so I'm starting to get there - now I just need to learn how to use them effectively to figure the fish out! I have a feeling after a year or so of learning to pattern better, I can start looking to upgrade a few select poles with my money.
On 10/6/2013 at 1:28 AM, ClackerBuzz said:i jumped from mid to higher end rods this season and while i did gain some sensitivity (10-20%) i don't think its worth it over all. i use braid to fluoro on most of my rigs which adds a ton of sensitivity to average rods.
plus some of the high end rods had major down falls i didn't like ie the guides do not 'work' well with braid=it tangles horribly around the top three guides. i'm surprised they aren't designed to better work with braid. some aren't balanced well. some high end rods have handles that are just too short. so i prefer to fish with most of my mid range over the high end.
i'm a huge fan of powell's which have the best of all worlds-sensitivity, balance, guides that work well with multiple lines, warranty. i also really like my fenwick tech smallmouth for $129. its sensitive, ultra light, balanced and love the handle. it feels better than a $385 rod. i just got a shimano compre off a member and it has really impressed me.
if you want to test 'high end' rods just buy them on sale ie discontinued or when they upgrade their line. st croix has a bargain room and rods are 40% off when they roll out a new line. TW also has Dobyns Champion for $185 during upgrades.
i thought i was going to be happy with more sensitivity but overall it's not worth it if the rod is miserable to cast ie isn't balanced, constantly gets tangled and the handle is too short for ur taste.
I do light flipping with my GLX 844, the braid sticks like velcro to my guides, especially when I snap the lure out of the weed and the loose line whips.
I fish rods from the fenwick elite tech and phenix recon on the low end. A fair amount of Gen 1 cumaras in the mid ground, and towards the higher end megabass orochi xx, shimano cumulus, a few champion extremes and an nrx. I believe that the rods I am fishing suit my needs the best and offer the great performance for the price points each are at. None were purchase at full retail price making them more affordable and attainable.
For the most part the sensitivity moves up slightly as you move up my rod arsenal. Also the level of crispness and blank quality increase. To an extent casting distance is also better especially with the nrx and megabass orochi rods.
I don't have an issue with bite detection with any of them. They all serve a purpose and allow for ease of use for long days on the water.
Is my nrx 2x the rod as my cumara or 2x as sensitive. Probably not. However I can feel the difference. In deep water or very windy conditions sometimes that extra bit of sensitivity gives you an advantage. Always buy the best you can afford, take care of your gear so that when the time comes, you can sell it and use the money for an upgrade.
I was just wondering this as well. Currently I went from an Abu Garcia Veritas that I couldn't detect a bite at all to a Duckett White Ice. The duckett is much more sensitive but I keep reading how everyone loves Dobyns and am curious about them. Will it be more sensitive than the Duckett? Is the Champion Extreme worth the extra cash over the Champion? Anyone in the PA area want to let me try theirs out? lol
On 10/6/2013 at 12:10 AM, Grantman83 said:To go against the high dollar point, I recently purchased a steez flipping stick and found it to be no more sensitive and much less balanced than my champion 736c but more than double the price. Turned around and sold it almost immediately even though I really wanted to like it.
Yeah, the Steez rods are not generally considered near the top of the list for sensitivity, from what I've read on the forums.
On 10/6/2013 at 3:15 AM, kickerfish1 said:Is my nrx 2x the rod as my cumara or 2x as sensitive. Probably not. However I can feel the difference. In deep water or very windy conditions sometimes that extra bit of sensitivity gives you an advantage. Always buy the best you can afford, take care of your gear so that when the time comes, you can sell it and use the money for an upgrade.
It's hard to quantify how much better one is than another. Saying twice as sensitive, or something like, has no meaning to me. All I can say is one is more sensitive than the other. All that means is *I* can notice the difference. But I can't quantify it. And I don't need to, at least for me. If I can feel a difference, that's all that really matters to me. Maybe someone else would not noitice it. And that's cool. We're all different.
I have rods ranging from St Croix Legends to Berkely lightning rods and would have to say my favorite rod is the Abu Verdict for about $130. It is lightweight and very sensitive and the price allows you to have 2 for the price of I high end rod. I break several rods a year either on hook sets or in the rod locker and it's not nearly as painful when replacement costs are around $100.
Jeb2,
I think much of what you said is true. Quantifying something that is not measured by a standard is difficult to pinpoint where as something like a MPG in the automotive industry or something as simple as the weight of an object is something that can be put into numbers. Today's rod manufacturers measure graphite on tonnage, modulous, I-M, and various forms of weave and carbon materials. Various resins, guides, finishing components, etc... all factor into the sensitivity of the rod in its finished form. Add various kinds of paint, unnecessary weight, and bling to the rod and you may lose a degree of sensitivity.
As you noted everything becomes subjective. The users fishing experience and their hands ability to detect vibration also complicates things. Some guys have "dead" hands while others have a quick trigger and can feel bites early and often.
Also as you mentioned folks can aslo note a rod being more sensitive than another but have no way of measuring how much more. When I think of what a good sensitive rod I think of amplification of vibration. I can feel a fish bite on a $100 rod but that bite seems amplified on a higher end rod. As I noted earlier I want that increased amplification when I am fishing deep, in windy conditions, or when its frigid and I am wearing gloves in 30-50 degree days.
Sensitivity is easy yet complex when discussions come up.
Im going to install a sensometer on all my rods to see which is the best!!!
I always thought this review was hilarious from TW
Just received the 7'6" XH Nano. WOW! I thought the Co Matrix was sensitive, but this rod is incredible. The Megaphone technology sounds good but I was skeptical on how effective it really was. I can tell you this: This rod is so sensitive, I was able to clearly feel a distinct "Hum" vibration being transmitted through the rod that was picked up by the TM on low at the other end of the boat. Incredible.
Necessary, no. Not at all.
Advantageous? Absolutely.
I am an avid proponent of higher end gear for those that want it to up their game. It will do that. That said, it isn't going to be an overnight things. It takes time and experience to learn what you're feeling, how to delineate those signals, if you will. A good example is moving from an IMX rod to an NRX. Huge difference between the two, and it may take some time to tell the difference between them. The other thing, many, many anglers will never be able to tell the difference between their ugly stick and the NRX. They simply don't possess the feel and understanding to do anything other than know the weight is different between them. Many people just won't ever be able to really feel the difference, and that's fine, too.
On 10/5/2013 at 4:49 PM, Ryan Nichols said:I'm an owner of mostly mid-priced rods. Which I consider about $150 or so.
Has anyone owned and used both really expensive ($300-$600) rods as well as mid priced rods and can compare them on sensitivity? Are they 2-3x as sensitive? I'm not talking about build quality or lightness, just raw fish bite detection.
I'm really looking for an unbiased judgement. I realize there's a ton of good reasons pay for the pricier gear beyond sensitivity, I'm just trying to gauge for myself if I should pay 2x+ the price for my worm/jig/flip rods where I want sensitivity to catch more fish.
Owners of the pricier rods, would you deem them essential for yourself and your fishing performance, or a nice-to-be-able-to-afford-quality kind of thing?
I was using a lot of mid range rods before I made the jump this year to the GLX and Cumulus rods.
Here is why I'd continue to buy them.
1. Very sensitive, but can't tell you if it is 2x..well I will say though that there is a noticeable difference when I fish them for bottom contact. Which is where I think it makes the most sense to spend money on if you buy an expensive rod for these techniques. (Jigs, plastics.etc) My highest end rod before I made the jump to a GLX was a Cumara Gen1.
2. As others stated they are awesome to fish with, when I first used my GLX it was like it was part of my arm, it felt natural.
3. All of my high end rods have been bought on sale or some kind of deal off.
I will say this, you don't have to spend GLX/NRX/Legend Extreme/Champion Extreme to get a jump up from 100-200 dollar rods, I think Cumara level is where you start seeing a difference. In the end though it is up to you if you think it's worth buying that level. However, you can find some rods that perform just as well...imo one of the best bang for your bucks all around. (Sensitivity, price and comfort that feels like higher end) - The Fenwick lines - Elite Tech and Aetos have impressed me a lot. Both rods imo fish like high end rods. Especially the Aetos.
I used to fish rods in the $100-200 dollar range exclusively for years. The first time I had a custom Kistler Z-bone jig rod built, it changed everything for me. Now I have 5.
I still use rods in the $100-200 dollar range, but for different things. In that range, the Kistler KLX is the best I have found.
I use the mid-priced KLX for Frogs, Cranks, spinnerbaits, chatterbaits, topwater.
I use the high end Z-bones for Jigs, T-rigs, Senkos, shakey heads, drop shot.
I am extremely happy with the balance points on the KLX for rods in this price range. Other brands in this range can sometimes be tip heavy. Split grips just makes that situation worse. I prefer full cork rear, no front. That was the motivation behind my first custom z.
The Z's are just crazy light, they are made with Gary Loomis's top end blanks (which can be bought raw from NFC). And yes, they are impressively sensitive. Other guys who have used my rods while fishing with me have realized there is a certain learning curve due to the fact that no matter what line they used, they were false hook setting on all kinds of stuff that they didn't distinguish between with their other rods. Not that they didn't feel something there, its just that the ability to detect sudtle movements was intensified with the z's and they mistook those feelings for bites. You begin to develop the ability to read the bottom like sonar. Distinguishing between bottom compositions, debris, and actual fish. I was able to do this somewhat before, but it really dials you in with a light, sensitive, balanced rod. However, this takes time with your rod. You really notice it when you go back to a lower end rod. Also, due to the lack of fiberglass in the blank, the way the rod loads just has to be experienced to appreciate. I remember talking to Lance, Kistler's rod builder, and the best way he could describe it was that it has a crisp and responsive feel that isn't found in other rods. That's about right on the money.
I used to attach and epoxy balance kits to rods, but I stopped doing that. The whole rod got heavier and all I was doing was trying to turn an average rod into a really good rod. If you buy a really good rod, chances are it will be balanced right, or you should shop around for one that is. I know a lot of guys say that a rod feels lighter in the hand when it is balanced, which is true when initially picking it up. But bottom line is you still have to hold that rod up in the air. Adding 2 ozs of brass weights to a rod is just 2 more ounces you have to hold up. I learned this lesson backpacking. No matter how well distributed your gear is (which is important), you still have to carry it all. Makes you think about what is really necessary weight wise.
My advice would be start a savings envelope, find a high end rod price to shoot for, and get cracking. If you spend time with that rod, I don't think you will ever feel it was a waste of money.
chase - very well put.
On 10/5/2013 at 7:43 PM, Ryan Nichols said:Have you ever tried / heard of rod butt weights? A guide I went with in Florida showed me a butt cap with some washers in it that he swore balanced out his rod and saved his wrists and tendinitis. I've heard the balance issue talked about a lot on forums, and I'm wondering if some of these folks thought of that when a good rod was out of balance. I've been meaning to try it myself lately since I have a rod or two thats a bit tip heavy.
They sell them at Bass Pro Shop... It works, but it's not nearly as nice as having a well balanced rod to start. Dobyns Rods were built with rod balance specifically in mind. It makes a rod feel lighter, even if in reality it's slightly heavier than a comparable rod that's not balanced well. Tip heavy rods can be light, but if they're tip heavy, they are a pain in the ***!
On 10/7/2013 at 3:51 PM, David P said:They sell them at Bass Pro Shop... It works, but it's not nearly as nice as having a well balanced rod to start. Dobyns Rods were built with rod balance specifically in mind. It makes a rod feel lighter, even if in reality it's slightly heavier than a comparable rod that's not balanced well. Tip heavy rods can be light, but if they're tip heavy, they are a pain in the ***!
Agreed,
I really like the feel of two rods I have, a Clarus and Mojo, but both balance like a drunk elephant. The mojo is one of the lightest rods I own. It loads a 1/2oz swim jig better than any rod I have, but the thing is so tip heavy that it makes a day of fishing kinda suck. I've used a 10 oz reel to try and balance it out with no luck.
My 733 is tad heavier than my MoJo, but it balances so well with my 50E, that it feels half the weight of the Mojo. I had to break out the scale to see for myself.
That's the thing so many people mistake when they hear about a rods "weight". They go for the "lightest" rod. I'd take a rod 2oz heavier if it balances perfectly with my reels!
You should honestly try those butt weights from bass pro if you like that rod that much... I'd imagine for a swim jig it's even more of a pain, especially if you fish it with the rod tip high like I do!
On 10/5/2013 at 4:49 PM, Ryan Nichols said:I'm an owner of mostly mid-priced rods. Which I consider about $150 or so.
Has anyone owned and used both really expensive ($300-$600) rods as well as mid priced rods and can compare them on sensitivity? Are they 2-3x as sensitive? I'm not talking about build quality or lightness, just raw fish bite detection.
I'm really looking for an unbiased judgement. I realize there's a ton of good reasons pay for the pricier gear beyond sensitivity, I'm just trying to gauge for myself if I should pay 2x+ the price for my worm/jig/flip rods where I want sensitivity to catch more fish.
Owners of the pricier rods, would you deem them essential for yourself and your fishing performance, or a nice-to-be-able-to-afford-quality kind of thing?
More sensitivity? No sensitivity upgrade after $150.
After $150, you are probably only getting a better quality rod.
I'm going to be replacing it with 744 or 734 in Feb. I was going to hold out till then, but I may give them a try
Definitely the better route, but in the mean time until you're able to purchase one, it's worth a shot. Or get them just to keep the Mojo rod as a backup spinnerbait rod or something. Never know when you'll want to have an extra bait tied on.
On 10/7/2013 at 4:16 PM, Khong said:More sensitivity? No sensitivity upgrade after $150.
After $150, you are probably only getting a better quality rod.
I disagree completely.
On 10/7/2013 at 4:16 PM, Khong said:More sensitivity? No sensitivity upgrade after $150.
After $150, you are probably only getting a better quality rod.
Not sure where you get your information from, but it's simply not true. Part of what contributes to that rod being better "quality" is the sensitivity. The components (ie guides, wrapping, cork, reel seat) are not what boosts a rods price from $150 to $500. Certainly nicer components raise the price, but sensitivity from higher quality blanks is a major factor.
On 10/7/2013 at 4:19 PM, David P said:Definitely the better route, but in the mean time until you're able to purchase one, it's worth a shot. Or get them just to keep the Mojo rod as a backup spinnerbait rod or something. Never know when you'll want to have an extra bait tied on.
True. I have it now as a quick change combo with an Alimony jig tied on. If I miss a hit and need a quick chance it usually works.
On 10/7/2013 at 4:22 PM, David P said:Not sure where you get your information from, but it's simply not true. Part of what contributes to that rod being better "quality" is the sensitivity. The components (ie guides, wrapping, cork, reel seat) are not what boosts a rods price from $150 to $500. Certainly nicer components raises the price, but sensitivity from better blanks is a major factor.
I have a Duckett rod that was more sensitive then my Legend Tournament. Why did I upgrade to a Legend Tournament, it's because it's a better quality rod then a Duckett.
Sensitivity doesn't always count if you get a crappy rod that breaks every year! (Note: I don't mean the Duckett rod.) I want a rod that will not fail me.
On 10/7/2013 at 4:28 PM, Khong said:I have a Duckett rod that was more sensitive then my Legend Tournament. Why did I upgrade to a Legend Tournament, it's because it's a better quality rod then a Duckett.
Sensitivity doesn't always count if you get a crappy rod that breaks every year! (Note: I don't mean the Duckett rod.) I want a rod that will not fail me.
Your Duckett may have felt more sensitive to you, but what I highlighted makes absolutely no sense.
So your Legend Tournament broke? I'm confused, sorry.
That is one instance, and neither of those rods do I have much experience with. There's many variables that can go into it.
My point was just this, people do not pay $500 for a rod that only has nicer variables than a $150 rod. Sensitivity is one of the major things you gain when you shell out the big bucks. You may have had a bad experience, and that sucks, but don't let it sour you from trying another high end rod, you just might be pleasantly surprised!
On 10/7/2013 at 4:39 PM, rockchalk06 said:Your Duckett may have felt more sensitive to you, but what I highlighted makes absolutely no sense.
The point I'm making is Quality will gradually increase the cost of your rod, not just sensitivity. I'm guessing you don't comprehend a lot so it's okay. View your point and stop disagreeing with me.
Sensitivity = "Emperor's New Clothes".....lol.
Hootie
On 10/7/2013 at 5:33 PM, Khong said:View your point and stop disagreeing with me.
Is disagreeing with Khong against forum policy?
I read the rules and never saw his name anywhere....lol.
Hootie
On 10/7/2013 at 5:33 PM, Khong said:The point I'm making is Quality will gradually increase the cost of your rod, not just sensitivity. I'm guessing you don't comprehend a lot so it's okay. View your point and stop disagreeing with me.
So now you jump to insults? Your a class act brother. I thought this was a discussion not a poo slinging contest. Your statement about crappy rods no way reflects the above.
I started a few years back with st croix triumph rods, at the time i thought they were pretty nice. I slowly worked my way up from mojos, to veritas, fenwick elite tech smallmouth rods, powell maxs, dobyns champions, coalitions, cumaras, and finally cumulus rods. Ive also handled glx/nrx rods.
The cumara/cumulus was the sweet spot for me. Aboslutely love the blank, guides, and especially the reel seat/eva grips.
I believe the sensitivity comes from the line, not the rod. The fish is connected to the line.
On 10/7/2013 at 7:33 PM, SirSnookalot said:I believe the sensitivity comes from the line, not the rod. The fish is connected to the line.
But the line is in contact with the tip of the rod! The rod has to play a part or else Loomis wouldn't sell a $500.00 rod.
On 10/7/2013 at 8:49 PM, John G said:But the line is in contact with the tip of the rod! The rod has to play a part or else Loomis wouldn't sell a $500.00 rod.
They sell $500 rods because people are easily brainwashed, people bite harder than the fish they are trying to catch.
.On 10/7/2013 at 8:59 PM, SirSnookalot said:They sell $500 rods because people are easily brainwashed, people bite harder than the fish they are trying to catch.
I am one of those suckers. My next rod will be a MBR782, probably a GLX. I know that it will not catch anymore fish than what I can get at WalMart but hey, you gotta spend your money on something, might a well be a super nice rod that ain't made in China! LOL
My local WalMart has a very nice Falcon Inshore Poppin Rod for around $90.00. It has a little made in China sticker on it at the bottom of the grip. It is pretty much the same specs as a Loomis PR844C. I know that if I have a little patience, I will find a much better quality Loomis rod for around twice that price......used of course. I personally don't mind waiting and spending more for the Loomis.
Ok so I guess I will chime in. Sensitivity is affected by many factors, but none more important than the rod. I have several different brands of rods and NOTHING comes close to fishing as nice as my DX. I have an Irod Air that is second best, but in terms of actually feeling the bottom and the fish, the DX blows everything away. I use the same line on all my contact rods, so it is not just the line.
On 10/7/2013 at 9:57 PM, down4ttown said:Ok so I guess I will chime in. Sensitivity is affected by many factors, but none more important than the rod. I have several different brands of rods and NOTHING comes close to fishing as nice as my DX. I have an Irod Air that is second best, but in terms of actually feeling the bottom and the fish, the DX blows everything away. I use the same line on all my contact rods, so it is not just the line.
As down4ttown stated, I also use basically the same brand (Power Pro, Seaguar, P Line) line on all of my rods and reels. There is definitely a difference when I fish my lower end rods vs my higher end rods. My Compre is sensitive enough, but my GLX and Cumara blows it out of the water.
Well it's a LOT of factors that play into sensitivity.
First you've got the blank, which , yes- a more expensive rod will likely have a higher modulus material- which translates to a more sensitive feel. Also things that play into the blank's sensitivity, strength and overall backbone are things like taper consistency, wall thickness and of course the resins- all of which the more you spend the more you should in theory get back unless you're specifying a slower action for certain types of baits. (but you should still feel more, respectively)
Another thing that's often overlooked is the guides. The Tourney Pros are nice rods but I think they give up a little feel over say, recoil guides- which love them or hate them have just about the most communicative feel of any I've tried. Sure, they can be loud with braid but noise = vibrations = feel.
Also the handle is huge. if you've got a huge pillowy handle on your rod you aren't going to feel much. Light minimalist handles that allow direct contact with the shaft of the blank and your hand will allow the most undiluted feedback, but may also affect comfort.
I guess it all really depends on you as a consumer. The higher degree of expectation will usually result in a higher spending limit to accommodate it. If you want good sensitivity on a budget, there's rods for that. If you want the most mind blowingly sensitive rod out there, prepare to spend for that.
On 10/7/2013 at 10:48 PM, Master Bait said:Well it's a LOT of factors that play into sensitivity.
First you've got the blank, which , yes- a more expensive rod will likely have a higher modulus material- which translates to a more sensitive feel. Also things that play into the blank's sensitivity, strength and overall backbone are things like taper consistency, wall thickness and of course the resins- all of which the more you spend the more you should in theory get back unless you're specifying a slower action for certain types of baits. (but you should still feel more, respectively)
Another thing that's often overlooked is the guides. The Tourney Pros are nice rods but I think they give up a little feel over say, recoil guides- which love them or hate them have just about the most communicative feel of any I've tried. Sure, they can be loud with braid but noise = vibrations = feel.
Also the handle is huge. if you've got a huge pillowy handle on your rod you aren't going to feel much. Light minimalist handles that allow direct contact with the shaft of the blank and your hand will allow the most undiluted feedback, but may also affect comfort.
I guess it all really depends on you as a consumer. The higher degree of expectation will usually result in a higher spending limit to accommodate it. If you want good sensitivity on a budget, there's rods for that. If you want the most mind blowingly sensitive rod out there, prepare to spend for that.
I agree with what you said. All that can be broken down into a higher quality rod, equals better sensitivity.
i have a few g loomis, from mojo to legend... and the g2.... to me the quality is excellent i like the rod here are light.. but i have a veriatas and its right up there with them.. people get into the hype of having high end rods they must be good at fishing.. one of my buddies have a the diawa type r with some crazy expensive rod.. he sent me a pic bragging , and he knows i have a lot of gear...so i brought my cousin buzz light year rod and a zebco lets just say he didn't say much after the outing haha!!
On 10/8/2013 at 1:04 AM, Grizzn N Bassin said:i have a few g loomis, from mojo to legend... and the g2.... to me the quality is excellent i like the rod here are light.. but i have a veriatas and its right up there with them.. people get into the hype of having high end rods they must be good at fishing.. one of my buddies have a the diawa type r with some crazy expensive rod.. he sent me a pic bragging , and he knows i have a lot of gear...so i brought my cousin buzz light year rod and a zebco lets just say he didn't say much after the outing haha!!
Now could it be you are just a better fisherman? A rod does not make the fish jump in the boat, it simply gives you an advantage. I have two veritas and they are good, but definitely not on the same level as any of my other rods. I have a Villain that blows it away (as it should), but it falls very very short of a DX or Irod Air.
On 10/7/2013 at 7:33 PM, SirSnookalot said:I believe the sensitivity comes from the line, not the rod. The fish is connected to the line.
You are correct that the fish is connected to the line, but your hand isn't always touching the line. The vibrations from the line have to go through the rod to get to your hands in many cases. I would find it interesting to read an analysis of the physics of how the vibration is actually transmitted. It has been my experience that there is a definite difference between a G.Loomis GLX level rod and the $160 range of rods when fishing bottom bouncing lures such as jigs and t-rigs with the same braided line. It isn't imagination. Of course, in my opinion it isn't a huge difference and as price rises I do think you reach a point of diminishing returns. I'm not justifying the price. I'm just saying there is a difference and I appreciate that difference when fishing jigs and soft plastics.
I am sure individual differences in our own sense of touch comes into play here as well. Someone else may very well be able to feel the same thing with a $160 rod that they can feel with a GLX or an NRX. Unfortunately, I cannot.
On 10/8/2013 at 2:31 AM, senile1 said:You are correct that the fish is connected to the line, but your hand isn't always touching the line.
You're right about my hand not always on the line, with the exception of bait fishing which I do offshore.
Sensitivity is another item on the list of subjective terms that describe a rod's performance. The increased stiffness/weight ratio of more expensive blanks allows them to transmit vibration better. Whether or not stepping up in price is worthwhile is totally a personal preference and opinion. The point of diminishing returns on factory rods is around $275. If shopping for truly top-end rods above (or below) this price point I highly recommend contacting a reputable custom rod builder.
On 10/8/2013 at 3:17 AM, Delaware Valley Tackle said:Sensitivity is another item on the list of subjective terms that describe a rod's performance. The increased stiffness/weight ratio of more expensive blanks allows them to transmit vibration better. Whether or not stepping up in price is worthwhile is totally a personal preference and opinion. The point of diminishing returns on factory rods is around $275. If shopping for truly top-end rods above (or below) this price point I highly recommend contacting a reputable custom rod builder.
That statement right there pretty much sums up this entire thread.
I think sensitivity of high end rods are like the sound from high end speakers, they reach a point where some people hear the quaility while others don't.
Some people feel the vibration transmited & others don't. Some people easily learn a Texas rig/Jig bite othets never get it.
On 10/8/2013 at 8:46 AM, Catt said:I think sensitivity of high end rods are like the sound from high end speakers, they reach a point where some people hear the quaility while others don't.
Some people feel the vibration transmited & others don't. Some people easily learn a Texas rig/Jig bite othets never get it.
Very well put!
On 10/8/2013 at 8:46 AM, Catt said:I think sensitivity of high end rods are like the sound from high end speakers, they reach a point where some people hear the quaility while others don't.
Some people feel the vibration transmited & others don't. Some people easily learn a Texas rig/Jig bite othets never get it.
For me, this sums things up Catt.
Some people will say that they can't tell the difference between mayonnaise and Miracle Whip or just don't care. It matters to me. I once worked with a guy who had more money in the sound system than the truck. Didn't make a bit of sense to me, and I love music. It mattered to him. Some of us can't tell the difference in sensitivity of rods, and some don't give a rip. For others, even the slightest improvement is worth whatever the cost. Most of us find a level that is good enough. Unfortunately, I find that the "good enough" bar tends to be very near the upper limit of my budget.
I think sensitivity is a luxury.. its great to set the hook on a micro-bite but unless u got tight line all the time, a supersensitive rod just isnt going to give u magic
I'd just pair the functionality of a rod with its proper lure, have a light enuf rod not to wear ya out all day, and have ultra sensitivity as a luxury..
Bit of untruth there. With fluorocarbon line, you don't need a right line because of the density of the line. That's the distinct advantage of pairing a high quality rod with good fluoro line. You catch a lot of those fish that would otherwise be missed.On 10/8/2013 at 11:09 AM, einscodek said:I think sensitivity is a luxury.. its great to set the hook on a micro-bite but unless u got tight line all the time, a supersensitive rod just isnt going to give u magic
I'd just pair the functionality of a rod with its proper lure, have a light enuf rod not to wear ya out all day, and have ultra sensitivity as a luxury..
Necessity, no. But as I stated previously greatly advantageous.
On 10/8/2013 at 11:09 AM, einscodek said:I think sensitivity is a luxury.. its great to set the hook on a micro-bite but unless u got tight line all the time, a supersensitive rod just isnt going to give u magic
I'd just pair the functionality of a rod with its proper lure, have a light enuf rod not to wear ya out all day, and have ultra sensitivity as a luxury..
Sometimes those "micro-bites" are a big bass on the other end. I get a lot of slack line bites on falling jigs also, usually it's pretty subtle, don't want to miss those either. I like a little luxury.
On 10/8/2013 at 9:15 PM, Quillback said:Sometimes those "micro-bites" are a big bass on the other end. I get a lot of slack line bites on falling jigs also, usually it's pretty subtle.
Set the hook at the slightest movement or nibble.
A $50 rod will give you plenty sensitivity. A $100 rod gives you yet more sensitivity, and more precise actions. A $200 rod pretty much gives you everything you'd NEED sensitivity wise, and precise action. Add in some serious build quality weight reduction at that point as well. Anything more, is simply nice. The difference between my Legend Tournament rods and my Dobyns Champ Extreme are very negligible. The fit and finish on the Dobyns is a bit nicer, but I'd expect that. The dozen plus Avids I own generally get the job done just as well, too.
I don not feel sensitivity is overrated, but the requirement of a $400 rod to get "proper" sensitivity is. There's plenty of options in the $100-200 range that are awesome. Factor in the used market, and anyone can get a nice stick without breaking the bank.
I recently purchased a Mitchell 300XE medium action combo for $69.99 at Academy Sports and it seems like a $500 upgrade from my Bass Pro glass microlite (this is a great rod but didn't suit my style of fishing). Anyway, this rod has a very sensitive tip and I feel every rock and stump. You will be able to feel the bite from the smallest bluegill to the biggest largemouth. The reel on the combo is also nice.
On 10/8/2013 at 9:15 PM, Quillback said:Sometimes those "micro-bites" are a big bass on the other end. I get a lot of slack line bites on falling jigs also, usually it's pretty subtle, don't want to miss those either. I like a little luxury.
If yer talkin about the microsecond bite where a bass inhales and spits out almost immediately.. good luck.. often times you can feel it but like I said if you have any slack on a rod dip on any part of yer retrieve.. good luck.. supersensitive rod aint helpin on that. If you know how to keep slack out.. you dont need a "super-sensitive rod"..most will feel the small bites just fine.
Also I've seen guys hooksetting every few seconds feelin those "micro bites" and makin a fool outa themselves..
Now that said I've got a pair of $200+ supersensitive rods I wouldn't part with because of that and other things like weight etc but I still say I also have enuf sensitivity I need to on my glass rods as well.. that's just me.. and I catch plenty of big fish on all my rods.. even pulled a few big ones outa the water on the cheap ultralights my kids use as well.. we're talkin modern rods here not comparing todays rods to those from 20 years ago..
You want supersensitive.. go ahead and fork over the $$$ for it (thats what the fishin industry wants you to do) maybe in your mind it will make a difference and give you confidence in yer fishin which imo is the most important.
On 10/8/2013 at 10:43 PM, J Francho said:A $50 rod will give you plenty sensitivity. A $100 rod gives you yet more sensitivity, and more precise actions. A $200 rod pretty much gives you everything you'd NEED sensitivity wise, and precise action. Add in some serious build quality weight reduction at that point as well. Anything more, is simply nice. The difference between my Legend Tournament rods and my Dobyns Champ Extreme are very negligible. The fit and finish on the Dobyns is a bit nicer, but I'd expect that. The dozen plus Avids I own generally get the job done just as well, too.
I don not feel sensitivity is overrated, but the requirement of a $400 rod to get "proper" sensitivity is. There's plenty of options in the $100-200 range that are awesome. Factor in the used market, and anyone can get a nice stick without breaking the bank.
Absolutely correct! I was trying to say this earlier which probably didn't make a lot of sense to people and I got nailed for. My apologies, but J Francho took the words out of my heart and stated it above. I stand by what he say's.
It may be difficult to re program one's thinking on this issue, going with what one thinks is going to work best for them in a given price range is probably the way to. What I think is only relevant to the places I fish and the techniques I use, I'm comfortable with my choices. If I were a gung ho competitive angler price would be no object, I'd be looking for those magic bullets. As it stands I'm not, being strictly a recreational fisherman if I happen to miss a 4 or 5# fish (I do doubt I miss many), it's something I don't get overly upset over. The best fishermen fishing in the best places catch the best fish most of the time. Given the fact there are scores of different brands and models of rods, reels, lines and lures, many used with a high degree of success.
On 10/9/2013 at 10:40 AM, einscodek said:
If yer talkin about the microsecond bite where a bass inhales and spits out almost immediately.. good luck.. often times you can feel it but like I said if you have any slack on a rod dip on any part of yer retrieve.. good luck.. supersensitive rod aint helpin on that. If you know how to keep slack out.. you dont need a "super-sensitive rod"..most will feel the small bites just fine.
Also I've seen guys hooksetting every few seconds feelin those "micro bites" and makin a fool outa themselves..
Now that said I've got a pair of $200+ supersensitive rods I wouldn't part with because of that and other things like weight etc but I still say I also have enuf sensitivity I need to on my glass rods as well.. that's just me.. and I catch plenty of big fish on all my rods.. even pulled a few big ones outa the water on the cheap ultralights my kids use as well.. we're talkin modern rods here not comparing todays rods to those from 20 years ago..
You want supersensitive.. go ahead and fork over the $$$ for it (thats what the fishin industry wants you to do) maybe in your mind it will make a difference and give you confidence in yer fishin which imo is the most important.
I guess I'm lucky, I catch those microsecond, slack line bites all the time, has more to do with reflexes and paying attention, sorry to hear you have trouble with it. Most of the guys I fish with can hook those fish also, but they're not the type to make fools out of themselves, I fish with good fishermen, it must be tough fishing around guys making fools out of themselves every few seconds, I feel for you.
On 10/9/2013 at 10:40 AM, einscodek said:
If yer talkin about the microsecond bite where a bass inhales and spits out almost immediately.. good luck.. often times you can feel it but like I said if you have any slack on a rod dip on any part of yer retrieve.. good luck.. supersensitive rod aint helpin on that. If you know how to keep slack out.. you dont need a "super-sensitive rod"..most will feel the small bites just fine.
Also I've seen guys hooksetting every few seconds feelin those "micro bites" and makin a fool outa themselves..
Now that said I've got a pair of $200+ supersensitive rods I wouldn't part with because of that and other things like weight etc but I still say I also have enuf sensitivity I need to on my glass rods as well.. that's just me.. and I catch plenty of big fish on all my rods.. even pulled a few big ones outa the water on the cheap ultralights my kids use as well.. we're talkin modern rods here not comparing todays rods to those from 20 years ago..
You want supersensitive.. go ahead and fork over the $$$ for it (thats what the fishin industry wants you to do) maybe in your mind it will make a difference and give you confidence in yer fishin which imo is the most important.
I guess I'm lucky, I do pretty well catching those micobite fish. I guess it doesn't work for everyone. Reflexes and paying attention are also factors in catching those light biters. Must be tough fishing around people who make fools of themselves every few seconds, I haven't experienced that myself, but kudos for you to be able to still be able to catch fish while fishing in those conditions.
I got 2 pennies... 1, buy what you can afford. 2. revo stx and Wright and Mcgill, (about 300 bucks a set up)... The rest is pure skill mixed with a little luck!
Many pages of great opinions later, and you can easily see it's all personal preference. There's no wrong or right answer here. It's all about what gives you confidence.
OR WHAT YOUR WALLET ALLOWS
On 10/8/2013 at 3:17 AM, Delaware Valley Tackle said:Sensitivity is another item on the list of subjective terms that describe a rod's performance. The increased stiffness/weight ratio of more expensive blanks allows them to transmit vibration better. Whether or not stepping up in price is worthwhile is totally a personal preference and opinion. The point of diminishing returns on factory rods is around $275. If shopping for truly top-end rods above (or below) this price point I highly recommend contacting a reputable custom rod builder.
I agree on this statement and the fact of diminishing return being around $275 as I've had a custom rod built at around $245 to my specs and how I fish and its worked great.
adne mono = has more world records than any other lines combine
ugly stik = world known for unbreakable most sensitive rods
penn, fin-nor, abu garcia, shimano and daiwa = reliable reels and are cheap
these are all proven legend all over the world
so to my knowledge a high price tag does no mean its better
On 10/11/2013 at 1:25 AM, DaiwaKing said:adne mono = has more world records than any other lines combine
ugly stik = world known for unbreakable most sensitive rods
penn, fin-nor, abu garcia, shimano and daiwa = reliable reels and are cheap
these are all proven legend all over the world
so to my knowledge a high price tag does no mean its better
A higher price tag does not mean better in all cases. We can all agree on that.
Sensitivity, quality, and value still comes down to opinion and budget though. Whether the reels you list are cheap or legendary depends the budget of the buyer, and of the model chosen. That mono was for years the gold standard of fishing line, and that as a result still holds many records is not a compelling argument for its superiority today. While you can make a case for Ugly Stiks being "unbreakable", to argue that they are world class sensitive is silliness in my opinion. What I'm saying is that these are subjective judgments that are fun to talk about and give us plenty to argue about on the interwebz, and there is value in that.
On 10/11/2013 at 4:22 AM, K_Mac said:A higher price tag does not mean better in all cases. We can all agree on that.
Sensitivity, quality, and value still comes down to opinion and budget though. Whether the reels you list are cheap or legendary depends the budget of the buyer, and of the model chosen. That mono was for years the gold standard of fishing line, and that as a result still holds many records is not a compelling argument for its superiority today. While you can make a case for Ugly Stiks being "unbreakable", to argue that they are world class sensitive is silliness in my opinion. What I'm saying is that these are subjective judgments that are fun to talk about and give us plenty to argue about on the interwebz, and there is value in that.
its been proven till this day but hey it comes down to personal preference i guess
Leaving out how much a rod may cost. If it is more sensitive, there is a definite advantage, especially on bottom contact techniques. Being able to feel more leads to a better understanding of what your bait is doing and what it is encountering. This knowledge is helpful, whether or not someone can completely understand the rods feedback. The degree to which one can comprehend what their setup is telling them and the skill of the fisherman are two of many subjective factors that help determine the degree to which sensitivity matters to an individual.
Bringing cost into the equation makes the whole thing a mess. Everyone's financial resources are different, how one wants to delegate these funds varies, to which component one decides to delegate these funds even varies. Some may be a reel guy, or a plastics guy, perhaps a swimbait guy. These will affect how much one is willing to spend on a rod and, thus, will not lead to a common consensus that leads to the answer the OP is looking for.
My own experience, the higher dollar rods I own, cast better, balance better, are significantly more sensitive and are much more enjoyable to fish. So, within reason, they are worth it to me. I can say that when fishing deep dropshots on FC line w/ Tungsten weight 3/16oz, on a Cumara vs. a NRX, I can feel a fish inspect the bait, swim around the bait and many more bottom contact properties. When it comes to a fish biting the bait, both are transmitted perfectly fine, the NRX is just amplified. Take that FWIW.
On 10/11/2013 at 11:08 AM, skeletor6 said:Leaving out how much a rod may cost. If it is more sensitive, there is a definite advantage, especially on bottom contact techniques. Being able to feel more leads to a better understanding of what your bait is doing and what it is encountering. This knowledge is helpful, whether or not someone can completely understand the rods feedback. The degree to which one can comprehend what their setup is telling them and the skill of the fisherman are two of many subjective factors that help determine the degree to which sensitivity matters to an individual.
Bringing cost into the equation makes the whole thing a mess. Everyone's financial resources are different, how one wants to delegate these funds varies, to which component one decides to delegate these funds even varies. Some may be a reel guy, or a plastics guy, perhaps a swimbait guy. These will affect how much one is willing to spend on a rod and, thus, will not lead to a common consensus that leads to the answer the OP is looking for.
My own experience, the higher dollar rods I own, cast better, balance better, are significantly more sensitive and are much more enjoyable to fish. So, within reason, they are worth it to me. I can say that when fishing deep dropshots on FC line w/ Tungsten weight 3/16oz, on a Cumara vs. a NRX, I can feel a fish inspect the bait, swim around the bait and many more bottom contact properties. When it comes to a fish biting the bait, both are transmitted perfectly fine, the NRX is just amplified. Take that FWIW.
I understand, that being said, I had $500 rods (steez) and lower dollar rods. I believe its all an opinion and preference because i feel that there is not much difference, the same goes with reels and line. its a mind thing, everybody thinks that a higher price tag item is better than a lower price tag item. its getting to that point that these companies and manufacturers are abusing and taking advantage of people. for example shimano used to be cheap a good quality now with this new ci4+, i mean its still good and couple of ounces liter but come on!!! almost 300 dollars and more, give me a brake. you have cheaper stuff now that will outlast these expensive equipment.
@ DaiwaKing, just noticed you are from South Florida so I understand your sentiments and agree. I think there are some differences, Ande mono (tournament) the benchmark for IGFA records as it breaks at the label not higher as many lines do today. Ugly stick and Penn reels, about the most common saltwater set up around for the average fisherman, sensitivity is not the issue here, strikes are substantial. Bass fishing is a little different as we are fishing in cover much of the time, strikes can be less noticeable and we set the hook. In saltwater setting the hook is not nearly as critical as many of the fish hit with enough speed and power to hook themselves, just gotta raise the rod.
I do understand the sensitivity issue but do not buy into it 100%.
On 10/11/2013 at 11:34 AM, DaiwaKing said:I understand, that being said, I had $500 rods (steez) and lower dollar rods. I believe its all an opinion and preference because i feel that there is not much difference, the same goes with reels and line. its a mind thing, everybody thinks that a higher price tag item is better than a lower price tag item. its getting to that point that these companies and manufacturers are abusing and taking advantage of people. for example shimano used to be cheap a good quality now with this new ci4+, i mean its still good and couple of ounces liter but come on!!! almost 300 dollars and more, give me a brake. you have cheaper stuff now that will outlast these expensive equipment.
Having 5 of these reels and the new Ci4+ I have to disagree. They have outlasted any reel I have ever owned, they get more use and abuse than any cheapo reel has ever endured. Have you ever used one?
And as far as sensitivity is concerned, I think if the gear gives the guy confidence, then that's all that really matters. Never used an NRX, but I can only imagine they are as awesome as people say.
I bought a whole rack of expensive rods. So many that I couldn't pay my other bills and the creditors are now constantly on my back! I'm so jumpy and nervous that the slightest twitch or bump sets me off. Don't know if the rods are that much more sensitive but I sure am!
My point, I guess, is that you want to buy expensive rods, by all means do so. Just have the money to pay for them. I catch plenty of fish with my mid-range rods (some would even say they are "cheapies") without breaking the bank. But if you have the money, more power to you.
I know some guys back in Pa whom I used to fish with who are near psychics when it comes to fish bite sensitivity on Ugly Stiks.. you get good with what you got..
On 10/12/2013 at 2:18 AM, einscodek said:you get good with what you got..
Great point!!!!
I will say, however, how do you know you missed a fish if you've never felt it at all? On some jig bites, the bass will lightly pick it up from the bottom and spit it back out. Don't think I could feel that with an ugly stick, its tough to detect even with a high end rods and line. You could say you hooked and detected every bite, but is that really true?
On 10/11/2013 at 11:08 AM, skeletor6 said:
I can feel a fish inspect the bait, swim around the bait
Please explain this, as I am intrigued.
In my younger years an ugly stick is all I had and it worked, however its a tool and as we all know some tools are better for certain jobs. Before websites like these and youtube learning as a young man I could not for the life of me catch a fish on a jig. I was using an lite ugly stick and stren 8# mono, recently I went out and caught some bass on jigs using this same rod with my son, whats the difference? Age, experience, nope it was line, I was using braid. I do feel there is a point of no return meaning a rod can only transmit so much, does a 800$ rod do it better then a 150$ rod, don't know as I don't own any 800$ rods. I can say that my 80$ Veritas is every bit as sensitive as my st croix premier and sometimes more depending on the lure. I have always been a line watcher, not just a liner feeler, many, many times I will see my line going off and not feel a thing, sometimes I will feel a dink and see my line go off. Personally feel that choosing the right rod for the job is the way to go, by that I mean power and action not by much how much it costs.
I think sensitivity in rods is relative. My philosophy is don't let your equipment hinder your ability to catch fish. what i mean by this is get a rod and real that match your fishing ability. if you are a beginner don't buy top of the line stuff, because you will not be able to use the extra information provided by top of the line gear. on top of that you will probably not know how to do proper maintenance on your equipment and you will not get maximum lifespan out of it. if you are very experienced, then get a rod and reel that will allow you to maximize your abilities as a fisherman. I personally use reaction rods from $70.00-$100.00, sensitivity is not as important, the proper length, action, power, durability are most important. in my bottom contact rods I use from $100.00-$180.00, would I like to use higher end rods? Yes i would, but I personally beat the crap out of my rods when I fish tournaments so these "mid-priced" rods do a great job for me, If i didn't fish tournaments I would invest in high end custom built rods.
Mitch
I agree with some of you guy about ande line, it it outdated in the bass game-field but it works for other situation, i also agree with rods, but it depends on what... if i get a very light uglystik and use light braid, i will feel as much as a 200 dollar rod.. i do believe that it depends on your set up because if you buy the most sensitive rod in the world and it can even cost 1000 dollars and you use heavy mono and setup all messed up it would not matter the cost. so i do agree with some of you guys,. (HOWEVER)-when it comes to reels i disagree 100 percent. think about this------- the legendary and reliable shimano curado = $150 was a extremely well built reel made in japan (NOW) is cheaply made and is not made in japan anymore and the new curado is now the chronarch =$200 and now with this new chronarch ci4+ $270.... my point look at the old popular curado and now look what it turned too. it went from 150 to 270... whats next 350?
On 10/12/2013 at 2:47 AM, Diggy said:Please explain this, as I am intrigued.
I drop shot with VMC spinshots size 1 or 2, usually with a 3/16oz tungsten cylindrical style dropshot weights. 99% of the time I am casting and working the bait back in that manner. The rod being used in said scenario is a NRX 822SYR (chose this rod over the DSR for versatility), and a Shimano 2500Ci4 I use jackall and roboworm plastics either nose hooked or flickshakes wacky rigged.
The amount of fish whether it be baitfish, shad, or bass (small and large), usually its the small guys that will swarm the bait inspecting it some taking small hits. Well I can easily tell when these fish begin to examine the bait. Whether it is the spinshot actually spinning as the current made by the fish cause it to move, or something else, but after using this setup for a period of time, I can literally feel a swarm swimming around it, by it etc. This is confirmed as I fish very clear lakes here up north and I've witnessed at a short distance this occurring and the different sensations that resulted. They were not strikes or little bites, as that sends an shock down the rod much different of a sensation.
Anyways, I can feel whether a swarm of baitfish is swimming by and around it, a small bass is swimming by it, and I can't say I've felt felt or have knowingly felt a larger bass swim around it. It kind of goes with a statement Hooligan made a while back, some rods give more feedback than many even know what to do with. It actually took a good breaking in period for me with this rod until I could appreciate its capabilities. I, for a while, was actually looking to trade it for something different. Now I am pretty glued to it and I would like to give the DSR, a shot sometime as its action would be more suitable for dropshotting.
On 10/12/2013 at 2:47 AM, Diggy said:Please explain this, as I am intrigued.
As I read this I figured the answer was going to be NRX