This is the roller clutch bearing in my Shimano Chronarch 100A. How do I flush/lube this bad boy? One drop of hot sauce for the whole thing or does each individual roller need a little love?
I appreciate the feedback---- does anyone have any recommendations on how to apply an appropriate amount of oil?
I always clean it off good with a q-tip then soak a q-tip with oil and go around each one. Don't know if this is correct but my reels still work great.
You can soak it in a degreaser or cleaner if you want but it isnt necessary. It doesnt spin. Dont use grease at all . Take the tiniest drop of oil and then use half of that and then use half of that. AR bearings can be tempermental to over lubrication.
brake cleaner best degreaser ever
Clean it the way you would any other bearing. Libricate by swabbing with light oil.
Soak it in mixture of hot water and a degreaser like purple power. Then rinse thoroughly with warm water. Let it sit out and dry or use some compressed air. Add 1 small drop of oil to a q-tip and run it around the inside of the bearing a few times.
On 2/24/2016 at 10:23 AM, jc68 said:brake cleaner best degreaser ever
Terrible idea on fishing reels, or anywhere there is the chance to come in contact with plastic, paint, or anything you don't want to melt. QD electrical parts cleaner is a much better "flush in a can" solution. It is safe on plastics, and finishes, and it comes out of the can at high pressure like break cleaner to "blast" away grime and gunk, plus it evaporates on it's own in a few minutes.
he was asking how to clean the bearing not the whole reel
On 2/24/2016 at 12:12 PM, ww2farmer said:Terrible idea on fishing reels, or anywhere there is the chance to come in contact with plastic, paint, or anything you don't want to melt. QD electrical parts cleaner is a much better "flush in a can" solution. It is safe on plastics, and finishes, and it comes out of the can at high pressure like break cleaner to "blast" away grime and gunk, plus it evaporates on it's own in a few minutes.
Call me crazy but I take my bearings out of the reel before I clean them.
CNC Brake Cleaner, while not my normal solvent for cleaning bearings, is a great product that can get those stingy bearings clean. Used it from stock bearings up to Boca ceramics. Never had an issue.
On 2/25/2016 at 7:26 AM, iabass8 said:Call me crazy but I take my bearings out of the reel before I clean them.
CNC Brake Cleaner, while not my normal solvent for cleaning bearings, is a great product that can get those stingy bearings clean. Used it from stock bearings up to Boca ceramics. Never had an issue.
As do I ...................most of the time, but sometimes like in mid-season, I will give them a little blast of cleaner, and let dry before re-lubing, and by using the QD electronic parts cleaner I can do so without having to worry about it. I have found , even during a complete tear down and cleaning it works as well as break cleaner, and without any of the potential harmful side effects.
QuoteReveal hidden contentsOn 2/25/2016 at 7:26 AM, iabass8 said:Call me crazy but I take my bearings out of the reel before I clean them.
CNC Brake Cleaner, while not my normal solvent for cleaning bearings, is a great product that can get those stingy bearings clean. Used it from stock bearings up to Boca ceramics. Never had an issue.
you read my mind
I use brake cleaner all the time on the various metal components on my reel. I've also used in the past for anti-reverse bearings with their plastic bearing holders. I've never had issues. Nonetheless, it's not a bad idea to be careful by selecting a mild solvent when plastics are involved. In addition to the electrical cleaner mentioned, Isopropyl alcohol would probably be pretty safe too.
One other thing I usually do with the anti-reverse bearings when cleaning is to remove the individual rollers from the plastic holder so both can be cleaned separately. This can easily be done with a large pin or dental pick, or some cases, the whole plastic holder can be removed and the rollers will drop right out. However you do it - just don't lose the rollers! When reassembling the bearing, I very lightly lube the rollers prior to reinsertion. When it's all back together, I give the whole bearing a drop or two of oil.
There's more potential harm than good to come from tampering with the components of a roller bearing. Completely unnecessary. But to each his own.
It's pretty cut and dry stuff to me... far from rocket science. If you understand what you are doing and how the bearing works, there's nothing to it. If you are mechanically challenged, maybe you're better off staying away from fixing your reel.
The reason I do it is because some manufacturers, for reasons unknown, choose to load the a-r bearing with grease (Daiwa in particular comes to mind). I want to be sure there is no residual grease hiding behind the rollers. Removing the cage and rollers and cleaning them assures that all the grease is gone.
The only part I disagree with is the need to disassemble. Shielded bearings are greased too and they can be flushed thoroughly without tampering and a roller clutch is no where near as tight. Every time the rollers are popped out and pressed back the fitting is stressed to some degree. Like I said though there's more than one way to skin a cat.
Flush them out in your favorite way. I use WD40. Then think of the smallest amount of the lightest oil you think is barely sufficient, then use 1/10th that much.
The condition of the sleeve that sits inside the clutch is more important correct?
Important yes, more important may be a stretch.
I am playing with a Black Max I, made in the USA. The side plates are plastic with a pressed-in or molded-in anti-reverse bearing. Not wanting to expose the plastic to anything harsh, I used warm water and Dawn. This worked well!
Regards,
Josh
On 2/26/2016 at 12:59 AM, Josh Smith said:I am playing with a Black Max I, made in the USA. The side plates are plastic with a pressed-in or molded-in anti-reverse bearing. Not wanting to expose the plastic to anything harsh, I used warm water and Dawn. This worked well!
Regards,
Josh
Yup. Simple Green, perfect solution etc will do as well. I also dip in alcohol to displace raining moisture and speed drying.
On 2/25/2016 at 7:26 AM, iabass8 said:Call me crazy but I take my bearings out of the reel before I clean them.
CNC Brake Cleaner, while not my normal solvent for cleaning bearings, is a great product that can get those stingy bearings clean. Used it from stock bearings up to Boca ceramics. Never had an issue.
Call me crazy but doesn't that bearing in the picture have a plastic cage? Like most AR bearings?
On 2/26/2016 at 2:21 AM, smallie.mike said:Call me crazy but doesn't that bearing in the picture have a plastic cage? Like most AR bearings?
Crazy.
The comment was in reference to the person I quoted pertaining to using brake cleaner at all, not the OP.
Also, not all AR bearings contain it plastic or rubber gasket/housing. It's unnecessary almost always to remove the Bearing from the reel during a breakdown/clean. If you do, you're doing it for a particular reason and disassembling the bearing...hence, why brake cleaner is OK to use it when you take them out .
On 2/26/2016 at 2:33 AM, iabass8 said:Crazy.
The comment was in reference to the person I quoted pertaining to using brake cleaner at all, not the OP.
Also, not all AR bearings contain it plastic or rubber gasket/housing. It's unnecessary almost always to remove the Bearing from the reel during a breakdown/clean. If you do, you're doing it for a particular reason and disassembling the bearing...hence, why brake cleaner is OK to use it when you take them out .
I'm talking about the cage inside the bearing that holds the rollers like in the picture above. That bearing can't be taken apart.
When you get free advice from a professional, heed it!
Tom
On 2/26/2016 at 6:08 AM, WRB said:When you get free advice from a professional, heed it!
Tom
This^^
On 2/26/2016 at 5:21 AM, smallie.mike said:I'm talking about the cage inside the bearing that holds the rollers like in the picture above. That bearing can't be taken apart.
My god.....
I'm not sure if you're trying to argue just to argue or legitimately asking but I'll answer either way. The bearing pictured in the first post is a generic image of an AR bearing that vendors use. (If you search for Shimano AR bearings, you will find pcitures ranging from blue, white, brown, and clear cages and housing. The one pictured is used by Boca and others.) If you are having an issue /w your instant AR, you can remove the bearing from the reel and disassemble it. By disassembling the bearing (again, I'm not sure if you're just trying to internet argue or asking. I assumed when explaining previously that I was answering somebody /w some knowledge of the the bearing itself) I was referring to removing the rollers to clean them. This is the part of the bearing that can see excessive wear, grit, grim, etc but having to take them out (or the entire bearing itself) is almost never necessary unless you are indeed having AR issues. Depending on the type of AR bearing, you indeed can take them apart (including the cage/housing the hold the rollers in). In case you still don't get it, I have included a picture from a Diawa Luna of an AR bearing completely disassembled that I got from a different forum. If you're going to tell people what they can and cannot do, be correct in doing so.
Apparently, I'm not the only fool who takes apart anti-reverse bearings...
Yeah I've been trying to get all of this done and it's taken me like a week and a half
On 2/26/2016 at 7:32 AM, MRG said:Apparently, I'm not the only fool who takes apart anti-reverse bearings...
I just want to be able to maintain a reel to the best of my abilities but now it's looking like I bit off more than I can chew
Great, now I wanna take mine apart.
On 2/26/2016 at 6:35 AM, iabass8 said:My god.....
I'm not sure if you're trying to argue just to argue or legitimately asking but I'll answer either way. The bearing pictured in the first post is a generic image of an AR bearing that vendors use. (If you search for Shimano AR bearings, you will find pcitures ranging from blue, white, brown, and clear cages and housing. The one pictured is used by Boca and others.) If you are having an issue /w your instant AR, you can remove the bearing from the reel and disassemble it. By disassembling the bearing (again, I'm not sure if you're just trying to internet argue or asking. I assumed when explaining previously that I was answering somebody /w some knowledge of the the bearing itself) I was referring to removing the rollers to clean them. This is the part of the bearing that can see excessive wear, grit, grim, etc but having to take them out (or the entire bearing itself) is almost never necessary unless you are indeed having AR issues. Depending on the type of AR bearing, you indeed can take them apart (including the cage/housing the hold the rollers in). In case you still don't get it, I have included a picture from a Diawa Luna of an AR bearing completely disassembled that I got from a different forum. If you're going to tell people what they can and cannot do, be correct in doing so.
Not all AR bearings come apart like the one in that picture. And most people would never take them apart because it's easy to damage that roller cage on most AR bearings because it takes quite a bit of force to press it out. My point is that brake cleaner could possibly damage the plastic or composite cages in ar bearings and some regular bearings that have plastic cages.
You know, I think I will stick to replacing close-tolerance components. I've seen too many finely machined parts fail after disassembly. YMMV.
Josh
Nothing wrong with the safe play. If it comes down to it just order a new bearing and install.
I soak my bearings overnight in Mineral Spirits. Make sure they are completely dry befor oiling. I bought some needle oilers cheap on eBay and use them for really small components on fishing reels and model trains etc... It has a nice long needle size applicator so you can apply a small amount of oil to heard to spots. I use Abu oil.