The Silver Buddy was mentioned on this forum very recently as being a very good cold water bait. Recently, there has been nothing hitting my baits of choice. Visited Academy looking for Silver Buddy. They don't carry. Got a couple of "knock offs". Happened to be just what the bass wanted. Had a fun hour of fishing. Nothing of size except a couple of 2 pounders, maybe, but all very healthy, strong fighting fish. Thanks to the Maine fisherman who gave the excellent report. M not savvy enough to look up his name while doing this. Just thanks.
Silver buddy is what I first started catching winter bass with also. I thought they were impossible when I was younger. Academy sports where I live has absolutely zero blade baits of any brand, what kind did you find there?
@Mainebass1984 probably?
On 12/6/2016 at 8:06 AM, Catt said:
Looks interesting, How do you fish that?
Cordell Gay Blades are popular too. My Cabelas doesn't have them, so I've tried the Cabelas brand blade baits and they work well too!
On 12/6/2016 at 1:09 PM, georgeyew said:Looks interesting, How do you fish that?
The Rinky Dink is a 1 ½" x ¾ oz chunk of solid lead that vaguely resembles a small fish, a small spinner is attached to the tail end. Thrown in is a small treble hook that not even attached to the lure; the line is threaded through a hole in the body and tied directly to a split ring/hook, meaning the weighted body can move up and down on the line.
The lure was developed in the early 1990s by local angler Hugh Rinkle molded off another local bait called a Wing Ding that had been discontinued. Once the bait was put on the market, anglers began learning just how effective it could be but the only problem now with the lure is it's not longer in production. However, there's still an option: the Norman Knock Off; as the name implies, it's a copy of the Rinky Dink.
Rinky Dinks are late fall and winter structure bait fished deep on the main lake or shallow in the creek channels. While many anglers equate cold temperatures with slow moving small lures this can be a big mistake. Rinky Dinks are most productive when casted and fished with a yo-yoing retrieve, the bite all most always comes on the fall and will be extremely subtle. When you feel something that's just not right, set the hook!
To effectively fish the Rinky Dink or Knock Off, I usually use 12# fluorocarbon matched with a medium to medium-light rod; even at ¾ oz the Rinky Dink (5/8 oz Knock Off) is definitely not a power bait. Lighter line makes a difference in the number of bites and the lighter rod will give you a better hook sets without ripping the lure out of the bass's mouth.
On 12/6/2016 at 7:05 AM, TnRiver46 said:Silver buddy is what I first started catching winter bass with also. I thought they were impossible when I was younger. Academy sports where I live has absolutely zero blade baits of any brand, what kind did you find there?
Cordell's Gay Blade like j bab said. The bass seemed to like the blue back better than the black back. Having never fished this type of blade bait before, was impressed with the good wobble and feel of the bait. Will add the Silver Buddy later to satisfy the "bait monkey".
The cool thing about the silver buddy is its thin blade - it vibrates more than any of the others I've tried. Don't overwork it is the secret.
On 12/6/2016 at 7:13 PM, livin2fish said:Cordell's Gay Blade like j bab said. The bass seemed to like the blue back better than the black back. Having never fished this type of blade bait before, was impressed with the good wobble and feel of the bait. Will add the Silver Buddy later to satisfy the "bait monkey".
Gotcha. I have a few of those as well but I always seem to get the hooks tangled together or line wrapped around the front hook
Once the water temperatures drop below 50 degrees the silver buddy, fished in the proper areas, is hard to beat. I have a lot on confidence in this bait. It has produced for me year after year from late October until ice up. The baits are very versatile too. At times you can catch them on the initial drop on the cast. When that doesn't produce a simple lift and fall presentation worked back to the boat will usually get bit. When lifting you only want to feel the bait vibrate 3 or 4 times at most before letting it fall back down to bottom. Another approach is "video gaming", you se the fish arch on your graph/imager and drop it right on there head. With the proper settings you can see your bait fall towards bottom and see hoe the fish react to it. It usually doesn't take long before they bite if they are going to bite. If they nose down on it or rise up from bottom to look at it then that fish is almost always catchable. If the fish doesn't react to the bait then you should move on to the next arch until you find one that is more active. It can be an extremely productive pattern and it is exciting to see the fish hit your bait on your graph. A silver is very effective for deeper water bass. I typically catch fish from 15-30 ft and at times as deep as 45 ft.
My favorite blade baits are the Damiki vault and the Lucky Craft one's. They're a little higher quality than the original silver buddy's, and they're not terribly expensive either.
On 12/6/2016 at 10:12 PM, fishballer06 said:My favorite blade baits are the Damiki vault and the Lucky Craft one's. They're a little higher quality than the original silver buddy's, and they're not terribly expensive either.
I upgrade all the hooks and add split rings to my silver buddies. My friend makes his own silver buddy imitating blade baits. They are pretty good as well and come with eyes on the front of the bait.
On 12/6/2016 at 10:44 PM, Mainebass1984 said:I upgrade all the hooks and add split rings to my silver buddies.
Me Too.
Big Smallies will lay waste to the stockers in short order.
Been there, Done that, got the T-Shirt.
A-Jay
On 12/6/2016 at 5:50 PM, Catt said:While many anglers equate cold temperatures with slow moving small lures this can be a big mistake. Rinky Dinks are most productive when casted and fished with a yo-yoing retrieve, the bite all most always comes on the fall and will be extremely subtle. When you feel something that's just not right, set the hook!
Ditto. The important thing in terms of speed control seems to be how quickly the bait moves horizontally, or at least how quickly it moves away from a chilled bass. They have to feel they can catch the darn thing. Let the bait run away from them and they won't (often) bother.
IME bass seem to appreciate the more aggressive yo-yoing earlier in the coldwater season. Otherwise, it's just as Mainebass1984 describes. Short lifts with just a few vibes keeps the bait close to bottom, or just letting those chilled bass know they can catch it.
On 12/7/2016 at 12:37 AM, Paul Roberts said:Ditto. The important thing in terms of speed control seems to be how quickly the bait moves horizontally, or at least how quickly it moves away from a chilled bass. They have to feel they can catch the darn thing. Let the bait run away from them and they won't (often) bother.
IME bass seem to appreciate the more aggressive yo-yoing earlier in the coldwater season. Otherwise, it's just as Mainebass1984 describes. Short lifts with just a few vibes keeps the bait close to bottom, or just letting those chilled bass know they can catch it.
Another component of speed control that is sometimes over looked, especially in colder water, is how long the bait actually sits on the bottom. Bass, especially smallmouth, have no problem picking a blade bait up while it sits motionless on the bottom.
When I first started having success with these baits I was under the impression that they needed to be on the move to get bit. Strikes on the fall are super common. And there are days & times when that's the way the fish will eat it. But after having a few bass eat the bait off the bottom on the initial cast & fall while I was fiddling with something else, I started experimenting with the "Pause" as it relates to how long the bait sits there between hops on the retrieve. What I found was there are times when after 1 or 2 or even 3 or 4 hops, if I let the bait simply rest there, when I went to pick it up there would be a bass on it often not feeling anything in the way of a strike. Other times, I could actually feel the bass pick it up, especially on a very hard bottom. There seems to be a fine line between waiting long enough to allow the fish to get to & eat the bait, and waiting too long to where there may be a loss of interest. Sort of like the pause when presenting a jerkbait. When the fish are chewing, a little experimentation here will get you an answer in short order.
So there's something else to consider when presenting these most effective lures. I'd encourage everyone who does to give it a try. You might be surprised . . . . .
A-Jay
On 12/7/2016 at 1:09 AM, A-Jay said:Another component of speed control that is sometimes over looked, especially in colder water, is how long the bait actually sits on the bottom. Bass, especially smallmouth, have no problem picking a blade bait up while it sits motionless on the bottom.
When I first started having success with these baits I was under the impression that they needed to be on the move to get bit. Strikes on the fall are super common. And there are days & times when that's the way the fish will eat it. But after having a few bass eat the bait off the bottom on the initial cast & fall while I was fiddling with something else, I started experimenting with the "Pause" as it relates to how long the bait sits there between hops on the retrieve. What I found was there are times when after 1 or 2 or even 3 or 4 hops, if I let the bait simply rest there, when I went to pick it up there would be a bass on it often not feeling anything in the way of a strike. Other times, I could actually feel the bass pick it up, especially on a very hard bottom. There seems to be a fine line between waiting long enough to allow the fish to get to & eat the bait, and waiting too long to where there may be a loss of interest. Sort of like the pause when presenting a jerkbait. When the fish are chewing, a little experimentation here will get you an answer in short order.
So there's something else to consider when presenting these most effective lures. I'd encourage everyone who does to give it a try. You might be surprised . . . . .
A-Jay
Interesting, A-Jay. I've never done that. Usually too worried about the bait picking up junk -I don't have a lot of really clean bottoms here.
In sight-fishing, it's common to kill a bait. Often that's the only way they want it. Which tells me what most bass -esp large ones- are probably doing when they see our horizontally moving baits -watching it go right on by. But, it sure can feel like an awful waste of time when blind fishing. But... it's not, and it's a way to dupe bigger fish.
I'll try it with blades this year, although I've not gotten out just lately and we're heading for single digits and below the next few nights.
On 12/7/2016 at 1:33 AM, Paul Roberts said:Interesting, A-Jay. I've never done that. Usually too worried about the bait picking up junk -I don't have a lot of really clean bottoms here.
In sight-fishing, it's common to kill a bait. Often that's the only way they want it. Which tells me what most bass are probably doing when they see our horizontally moving baits -watching it go right on by. But, it sure can feel like an awful waste of time when not sight-fishing. But... it's not, and it's a way to dupe bigger fish.
I'll try it with blades this year, although I've not gotten out just lately and we're heading for single digits and below the next few nights.
I'll be interested to hear your results Paul. I'm betting you'll have some.
I debated a little about giving this particular gem up. I could tell you that "I got them on a blade bait" and a motivated angler could fish a blade bait for a while and may not unlock this one for some time.
It's been a pretty major producer for me the last two seasons (works with lipless baits as well) but it's really what this site is all about.
Best of luck to you as those temps plummet ~ bundle up.
A-Jay
On 12/7/2016 at 1:09 AM, A-Jay said:Another component of speed control that is sometimes over looked, especially in colder water, is how long the bait actually sits on the bottom. Bass, especially smallmouth, have no problem picking a blade bait up while it sits motionless on the bottom.
I usually count to 10 in between hops, after the bait has already fluttered to bottom.
On 12/7/2016 at 1:33 AM, Paul Roberts said:I've never done that. Usually too worried about the bait picking up junk -I don't have a lot of really clean bottoms here.
I have my best luck near the steepest drops. I like targeting rocky areas, boulders, ledge or "hard" bottom. If I pick up any weeds on the treble hooks then I move to another spot. I do not have nearly as much luck near grassy bottoms fishing a blade bait.
On 12/7/2016 at 1:52 AM, Mainebass1984 said:I usually count to 10 in between hops, after the bait has already fluttered to bottom.
I have my best luck near the steepest drops. I like targeting rocky areas, boulders, ledge or "hard" bottom. If I pick up any weeds on the treble hooks then I move to another spot. I do not have nearly as much luck near grassy bottoms fishing a blade bait.
There ya go ~ I often present the blade in the "Clean" bottom areas adjacent to deep weed but seriously dislike mowing my bait after every cast. I will move to clean hard bottom spots in a heart beat if I can't get the bait back un-gunked.
A-Jay
On 12/7/2016 at 1:09 AM, A-Jay said:Another component of speed control that is sometimes over looked, especially in colder water, is how long the bait actually sits on the bottom. Bass, especially smallmouth, have no problem picking a blade bait up while it sits motionless on the bottom.
So there's something else to consider when presenting these most effective lures. I'd encourage everyone who does to give it a try. You might be surprised . . . . .
A-Jay
On 12/7/2016 at 1:43 AM, A-Jay said:I debated a little about giving this particular gem up. I could tell you that "I got them on a blade bait" and a motivated angler could fish a blade bait for a while and may not unlock this one for some time.
A-Jay
Easy to tell who has a good understanding of the basics of catching fish The beauty of "jump lures" as we Spoonpluggers refer to them is that you get to check three different speeds on every cast. There is the speed of the "rip," the speed of the "drop", and then the speed of the pause (non-speed) in between those maneuvers. Speed control, along with depth control, are the absolute bedrock of putting together a successful day on the water when considering presentation of lures. Suspending jerkbaits are no different this time of year. The length of the pause can often be as critical as the rhythm and cadence of the "jerks" or "twitches."
-T9
On 12/7/2016 at 2:04 AM, Team9nine said:
Easy to tell who has a good understanding of the basics of catching fish The beauty of "drop baits" as we Spoonpluggers refer to them is that you get to check three different speeds on every cast. There is the speed of the "rip," the speed of the "drop", and then the speed of the pause (non-speed) in between those maneuvers. Speed control, along with depth control, are the absolute bedrock of putting together a successful day on the water when considering presentation of lures. Suspending jerkbaits are no different this time of year. The length of the pause can often be as critical as the rhythm and cadence of the "jerks" or "twitches."
-T9
I'm all about the basics.
A-Jay
Can this be fished shallow as well? 6-8' what about even shallower? Same sort of idea presentation wise. I bought 2 silver buddies on my BF TW order what will be here tomorrow might try it. Never fished them before.
Finally, what type of rod are you throwing them on?
But of course we have information about these baits in our library:
Hard Metal Rap
The Silver Buddy
On 12/7/2016 at 2:53 AM, Dypsis said:Can this be fished shallow as well? 6-8' what about even shallower? Same sort of idea presentation wise. I bought 2 silver buddies on my BF TW order what will be here tomorrow might try it. Never fished them before.
Finally, what type of rod are you throwing them on?
Watch this video - do it like Scott.
I'll also use spinning gear when throwing into a stiff wind. Braid & a 10 or 12 lb leader. I have my success with these baits in at least 10 feet or so of cleaner water with a CLEAN BOTTOM. In shallower stuff & with vegetation down low - I'll fish something else.
Right tool - right job.
A-Jay
Y'all ever watch a crawfish after something spooks it!
It flips it's tail which propels it up off the bottom & backwards at the same time.
It does this 3-4 times in rapid succession to gain distance from what scared it, then it simply setteles to the bottom.
Oh by the way I cast t-rigs/jigs & retrieve them the same way!
On 12/7/2016 at 2:53 AM, Dypsis said:Can this be fished shallow as well? 6-8' what about even shallower? Same sort of idea presentation wise. I bought 2 silver buddies on my BF TW order what will be here tomorrow might try it. Never fished them before.
Finally, what type of rod are you throwing them on?
I prefer to fish deeper but have had luck in 10 ft of water.
I use braid with an 5 ft long 8 lb test fluorocarbon leader on a 7ft medium action spinning rod.
On 12/7/2016 at 1:43 AM, A-Jay said:I'll be interested to hear your results Paul. I'm betting you'll have some.
I debated a little about giving this particular gem up. I could tell you that "I got them on a blade bait" and a motivated angler could fish a blade bait for a while and may not unlock this one for some time.
It's been a pretty major producer for me the last two seasons (works with lipless baits as well) but it's really what this site is all about.
Best of luck to you as those temps plummet ~ bundle up.
A-Jay
Appreciate it, A-Jay. What goes around... Then again, it's doubtful that any of my fish -despite being regularly fished public water- have seen a bladebait.
On 12/7/2016 at 1:52 AM, Mainebass1984 said:I have my best luck near the steepest drops. I like targeting rocky areas, boulders, ledge or "hard" bottom. If I pick up any weeds on the treble hooks then I move to another spot. I do not have nearly as much luck near grassy bottoms fishing a blade bait.
My waters are gravel quarries and small reservoirs with milfoil and coontail. There are areas with rubble but there is always a skim of gunk -detritus- across it. I can fish a blade fairly clean, meaning there's often a bit of gunk on the hooks.
On 12/7/2016 at 2:53 AM, Dypsis said:Can this be fished shallow as well? 6-8' what about even shallower? Same sort of idea presentation wise. I bought 2 silver buddies on my BF TW order what will be here tomorrow might try it. Never fished them before.
Finally, what type of rod are you throwing them on?
They are primarily deep water baits, fished vertically or nearly so. But, I have used the 1/4oz Gay Blade -cast- in shallow ponds (6ft) and the bass like them there too.
Medium spinning.
I'm a Binskey blade fan. Kill them in cold water on this.
On 12/7/2016 at 1:09 AM, A-Jay said:Another component of speed control that is sometimes over looked, especially in colder water, is how long the bait actually sits on the bottom. Bass, especially smallmouth, have no problem picking a blade bait up while it sits motionless on the bottom.
When I first started having success with these baits I was under the impression that they needed to be on the move to get bit. Strikes on the fall are super common. And there are days & times when that's the way the fish will eat it. But after having a few bass eat the bait off the bottom on the initial cast & fall while I was fiddling with something else, I started experimenting with the "Pause" as it relates to how long the bait sits there between hops on the retrieve. What I found was there are times when after 1 or 2 or even 3 or 4 hops, if I let the bait simply rest there, when I went to pick it up there would be a bass on it often not feeling anything in the way of a strike. Other times, I could actually feel the bass pick it up, especially on a very hard bottom. There seems to be a fine line between waiting long enough to allow the fish to get to & eat the bait, and waiting too long to where there may be a loss of interest. Sort of like the pause when presenting a jerkbait. When the fish are chewing, a little experimentation here will get you an answer in short order.
So there's something else to consider when presenting these most effective lures. I'd encourage everyone who does to give it a try. You might be surprised . . . . .
A-Jay
I can't do that!!! The world doesn't produce enough blade baits!! After watching your latest report video and seeing the sandy bottom I can see how you can get away with that. Too many rocks logs and wads of fishing line in he river here. If you let those blades hit the bottom down here, you're not getting them back to the top.
On 12/7/2016 at 11:10 PM, TnRiver46 said:I can't do that!!! The world doesn't produce enough blade baits!! After watching your latest report video and seeing the sandy bottom I can see how you can get away with that. Too many rocks logs and wads of fishing line in he river here. If you let those blades hit the bottom down here, you're not getting them back to the top.
OK ~
Sounds like your winter approach could benefit from a good bit of deep jerkbaits & some drop shot action to keep the bait (hook) up & out of the danger zone.
A-Jay
On 12/7/2016 at 11:54 PM, A-Jay said:OK ~
Sounds like your winter approach could benefit from a good bit of deep jerkbaits & some drop shot action to keep the bait (hook) up & out of the danger zone.
A-Jay
Yes sir!! Silver buddy still works great you just have to pick your spots and reservoirs. Some of the tributary reservoirs on the Holston and clinch River are much deeper and have less current and therefore less logs. I have yet to catch much on deep jerk baits but I have some and will continue trying. I can usually do pretty well with the standard x rap but need to work on the deeper jerkbaits. I usually throw a drop shot over the side of the boat and just set that rod down and fish with another rod in winter. Usually can pick up a few extra bites that way, only problem is I tend to forget about it and run the line over with the trolling motor
Deadly lures on our East Tennessee waters in winter and summer when it's right.........Check out the Damiki Vault blades and Binsky blades. Both have been good to me except for price but if you play they say you pay. I like the chrome blades before the sun gets up over the ridge tops and bright on the water then I give them the painted blade from binsky. They wont eat the chrome here once the sun is high but they will the painted blade. You make me want to load the boat up and get out of here right now.