So I have read the mega thread and topic on cranks and no matter what lake or pond wherever I go I have never gotten a crankbaits bite. I have tried shallow , deep , in between. Bouncing off rocks and wood , all kinds of structure. Ripped out of grass. Burned or slow cranked. Nothing ever happens ! I want to be good at using them , they seem like such a fun way to catch fish , I have tons of different kinds but they’ve just sit there... if I throw anything else it gets bit. Switch back to a crank and nothing .. my goal for next year snd now is to try and get better with these dang things.
Same here.
Square bills produce great for me in the fall. Usually in 4-8 feet of water, outside of weed edges
The method I use to teach how to fish a Crankbait is trolling them.
Trolling requires a skill to know where and at what depth to troll, sonar is your friend.
Survey a area with rocky bottom that doesn't have aquatic plants at the depth you want the diving lure to run. If you meter fish near the bottom at 12' for example select a crankbait that runs between 10 to 14 feet or +/- 2' from the depth the fish are at.
You want to troll where you know fish are located, hopefully the fish are bass. Breakwater rip rap structure and dam faces for example are east to troll.
Run the lure next to the boat and watch how it runs at walking speed, 2-3 mph. When trolling run the lure about 75' to 100' behind the boat.
Use your sonar to keep the boat at the proper depth moving shallower or deeper by 1 to 2 feet if possible. Do not run in a straight line, make slow S pattern turns that automatically changes depth and speed. When you come to a point make a slow outward turn to run paralell to your desired depth, it's easy to snag lures on points if you get too shallow, stop and retreived the lure, then continue.
You want the crank bait to hit bottom, when it does hold the rod high and slow down turning the boat out towards deeper water and continue moving back towards shallower water slowly.
The difference between hitting bottom and strikes is the fish fights back, the bottom doesn't.
Couple of hours of trolling in the right areas you will catch bass. Go back to those areas and start casting and retreiving your cankbait in the same manner, changing speeds and occasionally hitting bottom.
Tom
Well... I'm surprised with all that fishing you've not got into them. There are definitely windows where they shine. I guess, I'd offer three general pieces of advice, since you mention already doing what I'd normally recommend:
-CBs do not have to be fished fast. Once, years ago, a fishing buddy lamented the same thing. He seemed to mostly chuck-n-wind them, thinking the fish would come to him. I suggested he fish his cranks like a jig, slow and methodical, through and around bottom and cover. And he was a CBer thereafter. If you can fish a jig, or T-rig, you can fish a CB.
-Be sure you know where in the water column your lures actually are. You may already, since the only way you can bounce off hard cover and rip weeds -without fouling or losing plugs- is to know where your lure is and specifically where the cover pieces are.
-Fish them when bass are apt to be aggressive: early summer, and mid-fall are such windows. Essentially good times to get to know just about any lure type.
Deep diving cranks always work for me, so long as the water is soft.
On 9/24/2019 at 2:28 AM, J Francho said:so long as the water is soft.
I'm not sure what this means.
I'm not much of a crank bait fisherman myself. I just don't have a lot of confidence in them. I will throw lipless from time to time.
On 9/24/2019 at 2:31 AM, billmac said:I'm not sure what this means.
They flat out do not work when the water is hard, as in frozen.
Ah, I thought it was some super secret code term.
@billmac You live in northern NY and you've never heard the term hard water?!
OP - This blows my mind. Get yourself a Baby 1- and crank that thing around any submerged grass you can find and you will get bit. I promise it.
On 9/24/2019 at 2:53 AM, fishballer06 said:You live in northern NY and you've never heard the term hard water?!
Context!
On 9/24/2019 at 2:19 AM, Paul Roberts said:Well... I'm surprised with all that fishing you've not got into them. There are definitely windows where they shine. I guess, I'd offer three general pieces of advice, since you mention already doing what I'd normally recommend:
-CBs do not have to be fished fast. Once, years ago, a fishing buddy lamented the same thing. He seemed to mostly chuck-n-wind them, thinking the fish would come to him. I suggested he fish his cranks like a jig, slow and methodical, through and around bottom and cover. And he was a CBer thereafter. If you can fish a jig, or T-rig, you can fish a CB.
-Be sure you know where in the water column your lures actually are. You may already, since the only way you can bounce off hard cover and rip weeds -without fouling or losing plugs- is to know where your lure is and specifically where the cover pieces are.
-Fish them when bass are apt to be aggressive: early summer, and mid-fall are such windows. Essentially good times to get to know just about any lure type.
Thank I’ll comtinue to try and do this.
On 9/24/2019 at 1:50 AM, WRB said:The method I use to teach how to fish a Crankbait is trolling them.
Trolling requires a skill to know where and at what depth to troll, sonar is your friend.
Survey a area with rocky bottom that doesn't have aquatic plants at the depth you want the diving lure to run. If you meter fish near the bottom at 12' for example select a crankbait that runs between 10 to 14 feet or +/- 2' from the depth the fish are at.
You want to troll where you know fish are located, hopefully the fish are bass. Breakwater rip rap structure and dam faces for example are east to troll.
Run the lure next to the boat and watch how it runs at walking speed, 2-3 mph. When trolling run the lure about 75' to 100' behind the boat.
Use your sonar to keep the boat at the proper depth moving shallower or deeper by 1 to 2 feet if possible. Do not run in a straight line, make slow S pattern turns that automatically changes depth and speed. When you come to a point make a slow outward turn to run paralell to your desired depth, it's easy to snag lures on points if you get too shallow, stop and retreived the lure, then continue.
You want the crank bait to hit bottom, when it does hold the rod high and slow down turning the boat out towards deeper water and continue moving back towards shallower water slowly.
The difference between hitting bottom and strikes is the fish fights back, the bottom doesn't.
Couple of hours of trolling in the right areas you will catch bass. Go back to those areas and start casting and retreiving your cankbait in the same manner, changing speeds and occasionally hitting bottom.
Tom
Thank you! I’ll do my best
On 9/24/2019 at 2:53 AM, fishballer06 said:@billmac You live in northern NY and you've never heard the term hard water?!
OP - This blows my mind. Get yourself a Baby 1- and crank that thing around any submerged grass you can find and you will get bit. I promise it.
Will do! Next up on the list then
At the lake I fish exclusively, I find that in early and mid summer I can troll in 50 ft of water with a crankbait diving to about 5 ft. Unlike the OP it's my goto lure. I have lots of different ones but a medium sized one that has yellow perch colorings is the one that I always go back to.
Cranks and paddle swimbaits seem to be my comfort zone for being confident of them working. Keep in Mind, here in Maine we have glacially made lakes. They are deep and often have steep sides. You can go from 6 ft to 30 ft in the span of traveling 20 ft on a lake.
IIRC, I've caught many different kinds of fish on cranks. From crappie, bass, even a 7lb rainbow trout, and some saltwater bay bass. Never caught a bluegill though. Cranks, both lip less and billed will catch fish, you just have to find the fish first..
On 9/24/2019 at 6:06 AM, Hammer 4 said:IIRC, I've caught many different kinds of fish on cranks. From crappie, bass, even a 7lb rainbow trout, and some saltwater bay bass. Never caught a bluegill though. Cranks, both lip less and billed will catch fish, you just have to find the fish first..
I can find the fish, I’ll throw a swimjig or spinnerbaits, a swimbait with a jighead, soft plastics etc. chatterbaits. And catch fish. Then throw a crankbaits of many kinds and catch nothingn.. in the same spots/areas
On 9/24/2019 at 6:18 AM, Ksam1234 said:I can find the fish, I’ll throw a swimjig or spinnerbaits, a swimbait with a jighead, soft plastics etc. chatterbaits. And catch fish. Then throw a crankbaits of many kinds and catch nothingn.. in the same spots/areas
Speed, size, color, ect...? Also, I always throw cranks on the lightest line possible. Once you find the correct combo it's game on.
On 9/24/2019 at 6:21 AM, Hammer 4 said:Speed, size, color, ect...? Also, I always throw cranks on the lightest line possible. Once you find the correct combo it's game on.
Tried bunch of different kinds. I’m sure it’s just me lol , and usin 10 pound fluoro
On 9/24/2019 at 6:43 AM, Ksam1234 said:Tried bunch of different kinds. I’m sure it’s just me lol , and usin 10 pound fluoro
10 lb fluro sounds good. Do you have a craw/red color crank, either lip less or otherwise.? I've had good luck with those. Keep at it, you will succeed.
Oddly enough I caught a Channel Cat on a square bill last week, the only thing I've hooked on a CB this year though to be honest conditions have been brutal.
We live at a time when most bass anglers haven't ever trolled a lured because it isn't legal for tournaments and tournaments influence how we precieved fishing should be done.
I learned to bass fish when trolling was the preferredt method to catch bass long before soft plastic lures or tournaments. I also cast plugs and weedless spoons where trolling wasn't feasible when bass are in cover. Plugs are crankbaits for you younger folks.
The reason trolling works so good for deep crabkbaits is the lure stays down and runs at the right depth for as long as the boat is moving forward. When cast the may reach the right depth for a few yards, trolling increases the strike zone for as long as you want.
If you are retrieving a crank bait through areas where bass are located and not catching them but catch bass on other vibrating moving lures you are not detecting strikes or the speed and cadence is very wrong. Changing pace without changing the depth is easy when trolling by making those lazy S turns or slowing down and speeding up or pumping the rod or lowering or raising the rod. Strike detection isn't an issue as the bass hooks itself and your rod loads uprising a crankbait rod with moderate action. The moving forward takes time to stop and replicated a sweeping hook set.
Use a good quality snap or clip, no swivel, so changing different lures is easy to determine which lure works best.
10 to 12 lb mono or FC line is good, you learn line type makes little difference line diameter does.
Tom
Sometimes crankbaits scare the fish . I had a good deep worm bite going today , 15 to 20 foot . I started throwing a deep diver and came up with nothing . Went back to the worm and the fish were scattered. It took awhile for them to regroup .
On 9/24/2019 at 6:43 AM, Ksam1234 said:Tried bunch of different kinds. I’m sure it’s just me lol , and usin 10 pound fluoro
It’s not just you. I have the exact same luck with casting crankbaits. If I pull them with the outboard motor, I catch all kinds of fish. Go back to the same areas and cast crankbaits, absolutely nothing. Something about trolling them is magic, they stay down and hit stuff. Bass can’t seem to resist a bait trolled 2 mph and slamming into stuff. Neither can drum and walleye
On 9/24/2019 at 1:21 AM, Ksam1234 said:Never gotten a crankbaits bite... anyone ever have this issue !
No. How is that even possible?
Wow!!! I don't know what I'd do without being able to catch em either deep cranking or burning a trap. On that note. I don't know about where you are but here the baitfish are beginning to migrate to the backs of creeks and a 1/4-1/2 oz shad colored lipless is very effective.
On 9/24/2019 at 2:53 AM, fishballer06 said:@billmac You live in northern NY and you've never heard the term hard water?!
OP - This blows my mind. Get yourself a Baby 1- and crank that thing around any submerged grass you can find and you will get bit. I promise it.
Baby 1- is an excellent recommendation while starting off and it’s how I caught that bass in my Avatar
I like rattleless better on most days , even then they are not quiet with those hooks clanking against the body . A good quiet crankbait is the Rapala Fat Rap . Balsa wood , so they dont make a lot of noise , they cast well unlike Shad Raps . One of my favorite lures for just running down the banks and casting at targets or parallel casting . I like to position the boat so that the lure is running on or near the bottom for most of the retrieve . Keep the bait in high percentage areas as long as possible . Crankbaits are one of the hardest lures to select correctly because they run at different depths .
I used to have zero confidence in crankbaits, because I failed to catch fish on them, aside from a few fish on the lipless variety.
At some point that I can't recall, that drastically changed. Now, they are definitely a top choice in spring and again in fall. Around here, they are nearly useless from the spawn to fall, due to heavy vegetation.
I had my best day for numbers by far on a small-ish Bomber squarebill this year. It was in April, before vegetation got too thick to fish it effectively.
Stick with it; use a steady retrieve with some occasional twitches, pauses, and fast turns of the reel handle to temporarily vary speed. I've found that a moderate action rod helps to keep them hooked. I've lost a lot of crankbait fish on extra fast action rods; especially the famously frantically fighting smallmouth bass.
This should help:
1.5 squarebills and rapala dt6 have accounted for many many bass for me in spring and fall. Anywhere I can find grass on flats or close to depth changes they seem to shine. Just keep experimenting and I'm sure u will see them shine as well. Good luck
I like them spring , summer and fall .
I was watching the sudden death MLF event today and both groups of anglers managed to meet the 20 lb cut line, 4 anglers in each group a total of 8, before the end of the 1st 2 hour round. 80% of the bass were caught on crankbaits. At the end of each event the winning anglers talk about thier lures and what I noticed was every angler had changed hooks to over size Tokars trebles. Medium divers that come stock with stand 4 or 2 trebles had up sized to size 2 or 1 heavier wire Tokars.
Why? Better hook penetration and no hooks bending outward resulting in lost bass. I have always known deep divers get hook changed to 1 size larger but with standard wire size hooks to keep the action similar. Apparently the action wasn't affected.
Tom
On 9/25/2019 at 9:08 AM, WRB said:Why? Better hook penetration and no hooks bending outward resulting in lost bass. I have always known deep divers get hook changed to 1 size larger but with standard wire size hooks to keep the action similar. Apparently the action isn't affected.
Good to know - thanks Tom
I, too, find it a little difficult to believe you've NEVER caught a fish on a crankbait. Seems the only time they don't work at all is after a cold front (fall fishing excluded). I wish I could be a "fly on the wall" and see when/where/how you've attempted to use them because, again, they are often very successful. As has been mentioned, try trolling with one (such as a shad rap or flicker shad). They cover SO much water that any aggressive fish will grab them. Especially in the evening. And you can find suspending fish that are otherwise difficult to locate.
On 9/25/2019 at 10:01 AM, Ratherbfishing said:I, too, find it a little difficult to believe you've NEVER caught a fish on a crankbait. Seems the only time they don't work at all is after a cold front (fall fishing excluded). I wish I could be a "fly on the wall" and see when/where/how you've attempted to use them because, again, they are often very successful. As has been mentioned, try trolling with one (such as a shad rap or flicker shad). They cover SO much water that any aggressive fish will grab them. Especially in the evening. And you can find suspending fish that are otherwise difficult to locate.
I, too, find it a little difficult to believe you've NEVER caught a fish on a crankbait. Seems the only time they don't work at all is after a cold front (fall fishing excluded). I wish I could be a "fly on the wall" and see when/where/how you've attempted to use them because, again, they are often very successful. As has been mentioned, try trolling with one (such as a shad rap or flicker shad). They cover SO much water that any aggressive fish will grab them. Especially in the evening. And you can find suspending fish that are otherwise difficult to locate.
Sorry to be extra bad at them lol. I have had lipless cranks be successful before but anything else is a fat zero
Crankbaits aren't my strong suit either. It's not that I don't know how to use them, the fish just don't eat them very well in the lakes I fish for some reason. There's exceptions, but a majority of the days I'm on the water, I don't even get my cranking rod out of the box, and that's okay, I do just fine without it.
On 9/25/2019 at 12:21 AM, Dorado said:Baby 1- is an excellent recommendation while starting off and it’s how I caught that bass in my Avatar
What brand? Baby 1- doesn't really help, lol.
Mann's
You want to select a diving crankbait that can dive 1' to 2' deeper then the active bass are feeding at. Mann's -1 is a small crank bait that dives maybe 3', meaning you are fishing 2' of water or over the top of submerged weed beds. I personally prefer a lipless to work the top of submerged weed beds, easier to rip through strands of weeds.
Diving crank baits excel during the transition light periods of dawn and dusk when most bass anglers are using surface lures.
Remember you can adjust diving depth with your rod tip position, held upright to reduce depth and downward to increase depth.
Tom
On 9/24/2019 at 8:49 AM, WRB said:If you are retrieving a crank bait through areas where bass are located and not catching them but catch bass on other vibrating moving lures you are not detecting strikes or the speed and cadence is very wrong.
I've never understood about "detecting strikes" on crankbaits. I either hook them or not. If I'm getting strikes without detecting it, I can't know. It's hard for me to imagine a fish hitting a crankbait with two trebles and not getting hooked. I'm using a MHF rod and braid, I don't think sensitivity is a problem. I still wonder if I'm missing something.
I catch fish on crankbaits; lipless, squarebill, deep divers and jerkbaits, (listed in order of success) but I much prefer soft plastics and have much greater success with them. I can see how OP may have never had luck with crankbaits.
Also, what do you mean by cadence? Like varying the speed, or doing a start and stop type thing?
On 9/26/2019 at 5:23 AM, fin said:I've never understood about "detecting strikes" on crankbaits. I either hook them or not. If I'm getting strikes without detecting it, I can't know. It's hard for me to imagine a fish hitting a crankbait with two trebles and not getting hooked. I'm using a MHF rod and braid, I don't think sensitivity is a problem. I still wonder if I'm missing something.
I catch fish on crankbaits; lipless, squarebill, deep divers and jerkbaits, (listed in order of success) but I much prefer soft plastics and have much greater success with them. I can see how OP may have never had luck with crankbaits.
Also, what do you mean by cadence? Like varying the speed, or doing a start and stop type thing?
Watch Big Mouth Forever video and see it for yourself, big bass totally engulfing crankbaits and the angler ( Uncle Homer) saying later he didn't detect a single strike.
Glenn's video saying he uses FC to help strike detection and explains he feels for lure vibration to change or the resistance to change. Strikes are not always easy to detect, they can be suttle so I sweep the rod once in awhile. if I don't feel anything, it could be either a fish, debris or a change in pace that can entice a strike.
Cadence is both lure speed and action, change in direction, stop and go or erratic movements in lieu of a steady pace, no different then bottom contact lures like jigs and worms.
Tom
On 9/24/2019 at 1:21 AM, Ksam1234 said:So I have read the mega thread and topic on cranks and no matter what lake or pond wherever I go I have never gotten a crankbaits bite. I have tried shallow , deep , in between. Bouncing off rocks and wood , all kinds of structure. Ripped out of grass. Burned or slow cranked. Nothing ever happens ! I want to be good at using them , they seem like such a fun way to catch fish , I have tons of different kinds but they’ve just sit there... if I throw anything else it gets bit. Switch back to a crank and nothing .. my goal for next year snd now is to try and get better with these dang things.
Man come out to Lk St Clair next spring and throw a lipless crankbait. It's impossible not to catch some smallies that way.
love my crank baits, always have one tied on
On 9/26/2019 at 7:12 AM, Fishin' Fool said:Man come out to Lk St Clair next spring and throw a lipless crankbait. It's impossible not to catch some smallies that way.
Funny you mention that. I actually called a guide , marcel , I have a trip booked in the summer next year for lake st Clair !
I'm gonna catch heat for this, but I think I can actually feel a fish on the follow with a crank. Not always with bass, but definitely northern pike. They disturb the water around the bait, affecting it's action. I can feel this through the line and the graphite. It can't be in my head. Anyone else fish cranks that has had this experience?
On 9/26/2019 at 9:45 PM, J Francho said:I'm gonna catch heat for this, but I think I can actually feel a fish on the follow with a crank. Not always with bass, but definitely northern pike. They disturb the water around the bait, affecting it's action. I can feel this through the line and the graphite. It can't be in my head. Anyone else fish cranks that has had this experience?
Here, here! Kind of similar to fishing a crank in a river with different current seams. I will even go one bit further and say the feel with older non-infinite anti reverse reels is another level higher over most current models. Something about that tiny bit of backpressure on a reels crank that adds to the sensitivity of the whole process. I’ve actually experienced similar with older “new style” reels where the anti-reverse has become jus a tad “sloppy.”
On 9/26/2019 at 9:45 PM, J Francho said:I'm gonna catch heat for this, but I think I can actually feel a fish on the follow with a crank. Not always with bass, but definitely northern pike. They disturb the water around the bait, affecting it's action. I can feel this through the line and the graphite. It can't be in my head. Anyone else fish cranks that has had this experience?
I sometimes feel the water disturbance when a bass approaches a bait and not hit .
Or did it hit, and I not feel it right? That Glen Lau video gets me scrambled in the head. On much of the footage, the hooks look bent under, so I think on lots of those strikes, there would have been a hook up. All the video proves to me is just how fast a bass will reject a bait, and what truly awful advice it is to "wait to set the hook" that gets uttered here over and over.
On 9/26/2019 at 9:51 PM, Team9nine said:Here, here! Kind of similar to fishing a crank in a river with different current seams. I will even go one bit further and say the feel with older non-infinite anti reverse reels is another level higher over most current models. Something about that tiny bit of backpressure on a reels crank that adds to the sensitivity of the whole process. I’ve actually experienced similar with older “new style” reels where the anti-reverse has become jus a tad “sloppy.”
Missd this earlier. Fritts use a reel with a dog and bone AR system for just that reason. I used to think he might be nuts, but what you're saying makes sense to me now.
Crankbaits are extremely efficient at covering water and searching for active or semi active bass. They excel at working card cover but can be fished in soft cover well.
I understand Tom's observation about hook changes, which makes sense but when the average bass was 1-14 the issue of bending a hook is not much of concern.
If you get "familiar" with the what your bait feels like you can feel a water disturbance as Franco experienced. It's not uncommon to feel a bass push the bait from behind. I have confidence in crankbaits and if I can find a school, I can't think of a bait type that is better suited to exploit the opportunity to catch a bunch.
On 9/26/2019 at 9:45 PM, J Francho said:I'm gonna catch heat for this, but I think I can actually feel a fish on the follow with a crank. Not always with bass, but definitely northern pike. They disturb the water around the bait, affecting it's action. I can feel this through the line and the graphite. It can't be in my head. Anyone else fish cranks that has had this experience?
I can’t say crankbaits but I can feel it on spinnerbaits. The same thing you mentioned , I been fishing in completely
open water and felt a subtle difference as you described many times. Then after like 3 casts in the same place I have caught a fish
On 9/26/2019 at 9:45 PM, J Francho said:I'm gonna catch heat for this, but I think I can actually feel a fish on the follow with a crank. Not always with bass, but definitely northern pike. They disturb the water around the bait, affecting it's action. I can feel this through the line and the graphite. It can't be in my head. Anyone else fish cranks that has had this experience?
I don't think I fish the same crank long enough to become that familiar with the feel, but I believe it is possible. When throwing soft plastics, right before the bait hits the bottom, you can feel it and even see the line move. Maybe it's the same kind of thing.
On 9/26/2019 at 9:08 PM, Ksam1234 said:Funny you mention that. I actually called a guide , marcel , I have a trip booked in the summer next year for lake st Clair !
I follow Marcel on Facebook he is an incredible Lk St Clair guide.
On 9/27/2019 at 8:05 AM, Fishin' Fool said:I follow Marcel on Facebook he is an incredible Lk St Clair guide.
Good to hear! I can’t wait. I’m spending an 8 hour day with him then going to try my own boat and see how I do
On 9/27/2019 at 1:02 PM, Ksam1234 said:Good to hear! I can’t wait. I’m spending an 8 hour day with him then going to try my own boat and see how I do
When is your trip date?
I'm in the camp that has little or no luck with crankbaits. I've caught some on lipless cranks, but almost nothing on squarebills. I still break them out and I've fished a 1.5 for hours and caught nothing.
Something odd did happen to me last spring with a crankbait. I went out and bought a black/black/chartreuse 1.5 and within 10 casts I snagged it and lost it. So I bought another later that week and the same thing happened. Bought a third one and yep, within 10 casts snagged and lost that one. Bought a FOURTH and got in a few days of fishing with it, snagged it and lost another one.
I haven't replaced it. I fish other color crankbaits with no problems, but that black/black/chartreuse is a jinx for me. Never again. Maybe...
For those looking to try trolling crank baits - my experience has been hooking pike to bass about 3:1. So, I use a metal leader to avoid bite offs. Pike seem to accomplish this just as you're about to net them to maximize the #&!@ you factor by forcing you to watch your $10 swim away.
I can't imagine not catching fish on crankbaits. I always have 3 crankbait combos locked and loaded on the deck.
I love fishing with crankbaits... The Bandit 200 been a great lure!
Couple of weeks ago I landed a 4.5 on a Strikeking 6XD out in 25’ of water.
I don't do anything crazy when cranking. Just cast and reel.. every now and then I might pause or give a light tap..
On 9/27/2019 at 6:24 PM, Fishin' Fool said:When is your trip date?
Not sure yet. He is on a trip in Michigan and won’t be home till next week. But I’m thinking mid July of next year
Ya know, I'll throw my 2 cents in again. I was the guy who early on said that cranks were my go to bait and I had good luck with them. I went back and reread your post and realized something.
On this forum I always see people who say that this bait or that bait is the one they go to when nothing else will work. One of these is soft plastics like worms either Texas or Carolina rigged or just on a hook. I fished a lot this summer and caught a lot of stuff. Mostly on cranks and paddle swimbaits. I got all geared up for soft plastics and read all about them. I gave them an honest shot. I was excited to see results. i.e. using only them for a long period of time. And I kept it up even though not one fish... I usually 2-5 each time out. Often every other day. That's a fairly good for my body of water. But the worms... nada.
Is it my lake? How I'm using them? Dunno. I look at all the youtube vids. So, if you don't seem to have any luck on cranks, welcome to the head scratcher club. I don't have any luck on jig worms even though lots of people say their a no fail bait. It may or not be my fault but it's the way it is. I wouldn't fret about it. Just use what works and experiment.
No luck on chatterbaits either but I love the idea and feel of them.
On 9/28/2019 at 9:56 AM, DanielG said:Ya know, I'll throw my 2 cents in again. I was the guy who early on said that cranks were my go to bait and I had good luck with them. I went back and reread your post and realized something.
On this forum I always see people who say that this bait or that bait is the one they go to when nothing else will work. One of these is soft plastics like worms either Texas or Carolina rigged or just on a hook. I fished a lot this summer and caught a lot of stuff. Mostly on cranks and paddle swimbaits. I got all geared up for soft plastics and read all about them. I gave them an honest shot. I was excited to see results. i.e. using only them for a long period of time. And I kept it up even though not one fish... I usually 2-5 each time out. Often every other day. That's a fairly good for my body of water. But the worms... nada.
Is it my lake? How I'm using them? Dunno. I look at all the youtube vids. So, if you don't seem to have any luck on cranks, welcome to the head scratcher club. I don't have any luck on jig worms even though lots of people say their a no fail bait. It may or not be my fault but it's the way it is. I wouldn't fret about it. Just use what works and experiment.
No luck on chatterbaits either but I love the idea and feel of them.
It's impossible to not catch a bass on a Yamamoto senko worm with a 4/0 EWG Gamakatsu hook. Depending on your water clarity if its clear i like the Watermelon black flake but about any flake color with Watermelon is good and the same thing with green pumpkin. Cast the senko near the edge of lily pads or the edge of a weedline or under a dock and let it flutter fall for 3 to 5 seconds it is impossible to not catch a bass this way.
On 9/28/2019 at 7:11 PM, Fishin' Fool said:It's impossible to not catch a bass on a Yamamoto senko worm with a 4/0 EWG Gamakatsu hook. Depending on your water clarity if its clear i like the Watermelon black flake but about any flake color with Watermelon is good and the same thing with green pumpkin. Cast the senko near the edge of lily pads or the edge of a weedline or under a dock and let it flutter fall for 3 to 5 seconds it is impossible to not catch a bass this way.
I understand. But, alas, I would be living proof that it is possible. Wish it wasn't. But next summer is another opportunity to try.
It's important to understand basic bass behavior before tying on your favorite lure and start fishing.
Back in '74 I made the Cosmic Clock and Bass Calendar for a seminar to illustrate and discuss basic bass behavior based on the water temperature* and activity levels. What is important to remember is bass are cold blooded animals and water temperature affects their matabelism and need for food. Let's agree bass are not active feeding 24/7, they rest more then they hunt prey. When bass are resting they have levels of inactivity and when hunting levels of activity.
Using crank baits a lure bass must chase to strike are only effective during periods of active hunting bass and a poor choice for inactive resting bass. Select lures that can be fished effectively where the bass are located and where active bass are looking for prey.
This thread is diciussing catching bass on crankbaits, it's not intended cover all lure types, that would result in a book.
The reason I suggested trolling to learn how to use a crank bait is covering a long zone of water depth where active bass are likely to be located in areas the lure is effective. The higher number of bass that see the lure the higher your odds are finding active bass that may strike.
Tom
* water temperature at the depth the bass are at, not surface temps.
Today we use sonar to located bass.
Maybe where you are it's just an off year for crankbaits. I usually do well on cranbaits throughout the year, but last year from the end of the spawn until winter they wouldn't produce.