Punching what do I need to know 2024

Fishin' Fool reply :

I try to add one technique to my fishing skill set per year. This year I would like to add punching. I know it's a heavy rod, 50 to 80 pound braid, I'd imagine high speed reel, tungsten weights, crawdad imitation baits. If you'd help me out shortening my learning curve what else do I need to know? I don't envision that I will buy a new rod at this point just use my frog rod.

Kidflex reply :

Bobber stops are a must. use slim profile baits with appendages that won't tangle in the vegetation. Be ready for a bite as it can happen very shortly after it enters the water. Sometimes u have to lob the bait higher to get it to penetrate the mat. Experiment and have fun.

RoLo reply :

Based on your synopsis, you already know the ropes.

The word "punching" is often used to describe simple 'weed-probing',

but true punching is essentially a vertical delivery using heavy weights that start at 3/4 ounce.

Braided polyethylene is the punching line of choice (e.g. 65-lb Sufix 832), but that's not etched in stone.

Tungsten weights between 3/4 & 2.5 ounces are typically used (tungsten is preferred, but not necessary)

In Florida's salads bowls I prefer a heavy power rod, but by all means use your frog rod

before investing in any specialized outfit (Rod lengths & reel speeds are based chiefly on personal choice)

The trailers used are generally referred to as 'craws', but due to the heavy weights & fast sink rates,

stuff like lure placement and lure behavior are far more important than shape.

For example in Florida, 'twin-tail grubs' get far more play than plastic crayfish.

Keep your casts short and wait for bottom contact after every cast.

Good Luck

Roger

RyneB reply :

All advice above pretty much covered it, but ill add my 2 cents. don't forget punch skirts, If I know I'll be punching, I'll always have a rig with a punch skirt and one without. Bait choice is key, want the slimmest you can to get through the mat. My favorites are gambler bb cricket, gambler why not, and D&M punch craw. Some guys disagree with me, but I believe a straight shank hook and snell knot is a must. Before using a straight shank/snell, I'd throw a EWG and my hookup ratio wasn't as good compared to straight shank flipping hook and snell knot. I also like to get away with the lightest weight I can. I usually start with 3/4 and 1 ounce and go heavier if I have to. But a little BB Cricket will get through some nasty stuff with a smaller weight, than something like a D Bomb or Beaver. Good luck, it's my favorite way to fish and very addicting.

FishOnLMB reply :

The rod, reel, and line you are using is great for punching. I would recommend a 3/0 beefy flipping hook, rage craw(any creature bait that makes a lot of vibration), punch skirt to add bulkiness, heavy tungsten weight, and I usually use two bobber stops.

Oklahoma Mike reply :

Good advice in here. I'll add that I will always use the lightest weight I can get by with. If a 3/4oz weight will get me through the vegetation and to the bottom, that's what I'll use. Sometimes it takes as much as 2oz if I'm trying to punch thicker/heavier stuff, but I will start with the smallest weight I think will do the trick and work up as needed. I always use tungsten to keep the profile smaller. Always pegged (2x bobber stopper is a good idea or you'll be stopping more to re-rig). Always a straight shank flipping hook tied with a snell knot.

One thing i didn't see mentioned above - you really don't need to leave your bait in there for very long. Drop it in, feel it hit the bottom, give it a hop, then bring it back and toss to another spot. You should pretty much be in constant motion, and you can cover a lot of area efficiently.

And always be ready to set that hook. Most bites will come on the initial drop.

gulfcaptain reply :

I would second the use the lightest weight you can get away with. Always snell the flipping hook. This protects the knot from the weight which will eventually cut through the braid (learned this using a different hook style) Now if I use that style I either put a bobber stop between the hook and the weight to protect th knot or use a punch skirt. And the other advice I'd give is you DON'T have to use 65-80lb braid. I've used 30-40lb for years and been able to pull fish out of cover with no issues both punching and frog fishing. Fish weed edges (where two different kinds of weeds grow together), points, holes, pockets. I have found where I fish punching in the middle of the day in Summer when it's bright and sunny I fish the nastiest thick weedbeds I can and find them burried up under it. I would also in the future look into a Moderate action or Moderate Fast action rod for you punch set up.

Catt reply :

Totally personal preferences!

I never Snell a hook & seldom peg a weight

If I want to add a skirt I'll use a Texas Rigged Jig; less parts required

Don't fish the grass, fish the structure under it

Lures; pick one, last year my #1 was Zooms Ultra Vibe Speed Worm

SwampLife reply :

A lot of good info above!!! Here's my take

I punch all year long! many of trips the punching rod stays in my hand all day long... Tried many of different rods best I found is a 7'8" heavy action custom rod with a weight on the butt.. Go with the least amount of weight needed to get through the pads efficiently, usually 1 1/4 for me but do use 3/4 to 1.5oz... Bobber stops is a must.. Bait of choice is a sweet beaver or rage bug... I never use a skirt.. 65lb Power pro is the best braid I found.. 5/0 hack attack hook is the best hook I found.. they don't always hit on the fall.. A lot of times there right underneath the mats.. You will be able to pattern them.. If they are underneith the Matt eating crawfish that's in the roots or what not you should Make your bait Suspend and bounce it on the bottom of the mats.. also a scented gel like Megastrike slopped on weight and bait helps it go through mats easier

Mike L reply :

When I first saw this I opened it right away thinking "I can help this guy" because I will punch first then look for other things to do..But not now

This should be a sticky

Mike

RichF reply :

I really like a moderate-fast taper on my punch rod. Having that little give really does help reduce tearing the hook out of the fishes mouth.

ww2farmer reply :

Everyone approaches punching a little different.

Here's my approach/gear:

I don't snell hooks, but I do peg weights.

I like bait's that are compact. Chigger craws, Pit boss's and yum dingers get the call most of the time.

I don't much care for jigs for punching, if I want a skirt/bigger profile, I use a punch rig skirt.

I tend to always use a straight shank flipping hook for punching, #1 is I am usually using a big (3/4 -1oz +) tungsten sinker, and the straight shank hooks have extra bite over an EWG hook when paired with a big weight, and #2 the big barb keepers on the flipping hooks keeps me punching, instead of adjusting baits every other flip.

Even in clear water, I tie direct to braid (usually 50lb test)

The longer the rod the better IMHO. I like at least a 7'3" H power with a Mod. fast to fast action...........I don't like XF for a punching rod.

RoLo reply :

On 1/3/2017 at 8:51 PM, Catt said:

Totally personal preferences!

I never Snell a hook & seldom peg a weight

If I want to add a skirt I'll use a Texas Rigged Jig; less parts required

Don't fish the grass, fish the structure under it

Lures; pick one, last year my #1 was Zooms Ultra Vibe Speed Worm

Like Tom, I never snell the hook, and select my punching spots based on bottom contour,

and there I'll pinpoint the best weed pockets, weed alleys and weed points.

In short, my electric anchor gets far more exercise than my electric motor.

The Zoom Ultra-Vibe is my wife's best punch trailer, I've done pretty good

with a Zoom 4.25" Z-Craw (black light)

Roger

Dypsis reply :

Glad I found this thread, I was going to post a similar question myself today.

I've seen it mentioned in here a few times that for punching most(?) prefer a mod fast rod - is that simply to help alleviate ripping the hook out of the fish's mouth?

Catt reply :

On 1/4/2017 at 1:04 AM, Dypsis said:

Glad I found this thread, I was going to post a similar question myself today.

I've seen it mentioned in here a few times that for punching most(?) prefer a mod fast rod - is that simply to help alleviate ripping the hook out of the fish's mouth?

My personal preference is extra fast because of the size of the bass & the denseness of the grass I want to turn that bass's head & get her coming up on the hook set!

12poundbass reply :

I'm going to focus on this more this year too. I see some say peg the weight and some say bobber stop. What's the preferred method? I've seen the pros recomend a bobber stop so the lure can move freely. What's your inputs?

Catt reply :

On 1/4/2017 at 2:23 AM, 12poundbass said:

I'm going to focus on this more this year too. I see some say peg the weight and some say bobber stop. What's the preferred method? I've seen the pros recomend a bobber stop so the lure can move freely. What's your inputs?

Not needed!

RichF reply :

On 1/4/2017 at 1:04 AM, Dypsis said:

Glad I found this thread, I was going to post a similar question myself today.

I've seen it mentioned in here a few times that for punching most(?) prefer a mod fast rod - is that simply to help alleviate ripping the hook out of the fish's mouth?

I went from a heavy fast action stick to a heavy mod-fast for that reason and think it made a significant difference. I also changed my hookset from the typical jig/flipping "crank down and crack" to more of a sweeping upward pull which has put a ton more fish in the boat for me. But like everything bass fishing related, it's really about personal preference and what you feel comfortable with.

On 1/4/2017 at 2:23 AM, 12poundbass said:

I'm going to focus on this more this year too. I see some say peg the weight and some say bobber stop. What's the preferred method? I've seen the pros recomend a bobber stop so the lure can move freely. What's your inputs?

I find a bobber stop to be pretty necessary especially when I'm punching thru matted vegetation that has blown up into cattails, reeds, and pads. It keeps my bait in one tight compact unit, not allowing the weight to disconnect from the rest of the rig and wrap around stuff/drop into holes before the bait does.

Fishin' Fool reply :

So I've been doing a lot of research on this technique the last 24 hours. I see the majority prefer a straight shank hook with a snell knot. I was a little intimidated by the snell knot so I found one that was developed by Ish Monroe that has a second eyelet a little lower than the original. With this hook you are supposed to be able to tie any knot other than a palomar. I'm looking forward to trying this technique this summer in Michigan. I have a good 6-7 months before we will have that many weeds lol.

Oklahoma Mike reply :

On 1/4/2017 at 7:29 AM, Fishin' Fool said:

So I've been doing a lot of research on this technique the last 24 hours. I see the majority prefer a straight shank hook with a snell knot. I was a little intimidated by the snell knot so I found one that was developed by Ish Monroe that has a second eyelet a little lower than the original. With this hook you are supposed to be able to tie any knot other than a palomar. I'm looking forward to trying this technique this summer in Michigan. I have a good 6-7 months before we will have that many weeds lol.

A snell is actually a very easy knot to tie. Watch a vid and give it a try - you can master it in no time.

RyneB reply :

snell knot is simple. I also suggest using 6th sense punch stops instead of the cheap colored bobber stops. I only need 1 6th sense punch stop for the weight to stay. While my non boaters and friends who use the bobber stops need 3 or 4 stops just tone hold it. There seems to be so much different advice, and it will come down to what you are trying to punch. Like the guys who say they don't use a punch stop, I have found it is nearly impossible for me to present a bait efficiently in the stuff I fish without a stop. The bait just doesn't make it through, but I can see where it'd work on less matted stuff. There is no set rule on punching, they say it's a mid day technique when the sun is high and hot, but I have had days where I'd smash them punching in the morning and have the punch bite die mid morning and afternoon. It's just wierd like that.

SwampLife reply :

On 1/4/2017 at 2:23 AM, 12poundbass said:

I'm going to focus on this more this year too. I see some say peg the weight and some say bobber stop. What's the preferred method? I've seen the pros recomend a bobber stop so the lure can move freely. What's your inputs?

I mentioned bobber stop..I use the bobber stop to peg the weight 100% of time ...my choice "bobber stop" is the pay check baits punch stop... Just have to order in bulk because they are always out of stock... I just use the cheap eagle claw ones for regular Texas rig

RichF reply :

x2 on the 6th sense stops

Catt reply :

On 1/4/2017 at 7:58 AM, RyneB said:

There seems to be so much different advice, and it will come down to what you are trying to punch. Like the guys who say they don't use a punch stop, I have found it is nearly impossible for me to present a bait efficiently in the stuff I fish without a stop. The bait just doesn't make it through, but I can see where it'd work on less matted stuff.

I've punched every kind of matted vegetation from Brownsville Texas to Ocala Florida & from the Gulf of Mexico to Ohio, so kind of grass do y'all have that's so different?

RyneB reply :

On 1/4/2017 at 10:44 AM, Catt said:

I've punched every kind of matted vegetation from Brownsville Texas to Ocala Florida & from the Gulf of Mexico to Ohio, so kind of grass do y'all have that's so different?

what advantages do you see by not pegging? I just feel I work harder to get the bait through not pegged, that's all. maybe I'm doing it wrong.

S. Sass reply :

I'm not against anyone doing it their way so don't take my way as gospel. Most here seem to be somewhat close or a loose variation of what others are doing anyway. These are just what I use and it works for me.

2 regular plain old bobber stops. I have no issues with 2 slipping. I've started using strips for pegging my weights recently and liking it so far too.
4/0 5/0 or 6/0 straight shank Flippin hook depending on plastic I am using.
I use the snell knot (very easy to learn) and it may or may not be a advantage but I like it.
Usually around 50lb strait braid but I don't see 40lb or 80lb making a difference.
Sure tungsten is nice but I have been using lead 3/4 to 1.5 oz (still legal here)
Berkley Pit Boss and Devil Spear both punch just fine for me and are very reasonable priced baits especially on sale.
I punch both ways sometimes I use a skirt sometimes I don't. I use whatever way the fish are hitting it.
I use a Mojo 7'11" Heavy/Mod. Fast Flipping stick. I really like having that length and the rod has some good backbone.
I'm using a old BPQ in 7.1:1 ratio with the drag locked down. Probably not the best reel for this but it has worked great.

Catt reply :

On 1/4/2017 at 1:59 PM, RyneB said:

what advantages do you see by not pegging? I just feel I work harder to get the bait through not pegged, that's all. maybe I'm doing it wrong.

Can't give an answer?

It's OK most guys can't!

The bass fishing industry has convinced anglers that certain products are required to be successful at specific techniques in order to boost sales.

They tell us that when fishing an unpegged Texas rig of any weight we'll get this huge amount of separation between the weight & hook which is totally untrue. And yes a "Punch" rig is a Texas rig...it's just on steroids!

The hardest vegetation to punch is probably Water Hyacinth only because your weight well land on top of the plant instead of between them.

The Snell knot is another one, the premise is the we can set hook so hard that the hook pivots in the basses mouth. They even show us how it works by holding the weight between their fingers & pulling the line. Ya think a basses mouth is this huge cavern! What's strange is they never use a Snell knot any other time! If it is so effective why not Snell every hook?

RyneB reply :

I don't do any of these because a pro or industry tell me too. I Do these because they work better for me, no doubt. My hookup ratio is better with a snell and sttaight shank, and I get through the mat much cleaner and efficiently with a pegged weight. I'm not arguing against not pegging, I have seen plenty of guys do it. I'm just asking what the advantages are. Maybe I haven't tapped into the advantages of it.

SwampLife reply :

On 1/4/2017 at 7:11 PM, Catt said:

Can't give an answer?

It's OK most guys can't!

The bass fishing industry has convinced anglers that certain products are required to be successful at specific techniques in order to boost sales.

They tell us that when fishing an unpegged Texas rig of any weight we'll get this huge amount of separation between the weight & hook which is totally untrue. And yes a "Punch" rig is a Texas rig...it's just on steroids!

The hardest vegetation to punch is probably Water Hyacinth only because your weight well land on top of the plant instead of between them.

The Snell knot is another one, the premise is the we can set hook so hard that the hook pivots in the basses mouth. They even show us how it works by holding the weight between their fingers & pulling the line. Ya think a basses mouth is this huge cavern! What's strange is they never use a Snell knot any other time! If it is so effective why not Snell every hook?

I fish the Atchafalaya basin and that's all I punch through is thick mats of water hyacinth.. It gets real thick in the summer!!! You would be wasting time punching with out a bobber stop!!!

I agree about the snell knot... I still say palomor is one of the best knots for braid... I never broke off punching..

RyneB reply :

On 1/4/2017 at 7:11 PM, Catt said:

Can't give an answer?

It's OK most guys can't!

The bass fishing industry has convinced anglers that certain products are required to be successful at specific techniques in order to boost sales.

They tell us that when fishing an unpegged Texas rig of any weight we'll get this huge amount of separation between the weight & hook which is totally untrue. And yes a "Punch" rig is a Texas rig...it's just on steroids!

The hardest vegetation to punch is probably Water Hyacinth only because your weight well land on top of the plant instead of between them.

The Snell knot is another one, the premise is the we can set hook so hard that the hook pivots in the basses mouth. They even show us how it works by holding the weight between their fingers & pulling the line. Ya think a basses mouth is this huge cavern! What's strange is they never use a Snell knot any other time! If it is so effective why not Snell every hook?

not sure of the type of vegetation, as it seems to be several different kinds, and I'm not aquatic vegetation expert. But it's this stuff, and a lot of times it has a snotty and slimey stuff underneath. This is a place I fish often.

RichF reply :

If you can punch effectively and not use a bobber stop, I say more power to you! That's one less thing you have to buy and rig. I just know I'm not as efficient without it, especially in the specific conditions I listed earlier. As for the snell...eh. I get the concept. I tried it and it did work like it's "supposed" to. I've just used a palomar forever and didn't see a drastic hookup improvement from the snell.

J Francho reply :

I still use the typical punching rig, but more often, I turn to a heavy duty, jika style rig. I make them myself, using heavy wide gap hooks, heavy split split rings, and trolling weights. Here's a pic:

Catt reply :

I spend 95% of my time on the water flipping, pitching, or punching some gnarly looking something!

There are two types of cover I consider peg worthy.

Pre-spawn Buck Brush on Toledo Bend & water hyacinths in south Louisiana marshes. Buck brush because you will undoubtedly ricochet one off a limb & the hyacinths will just eat your lure!

Everything else no problem!

I"m ole school, I can punch all that with a jig!

CTBassin860 reply :

I got this V&M slip n jig in my LTB a few months back I haven't tried out.Its either 1/2 or 3/4 skirted Punch weight.I don't know if anyone has tried them.Basically a skirted heavy t-rig.

RichF reply :

I'll choose a jig to punch with over the typical stuff anytime I can get away with it. Less working parts = more flips/pitches/punches.

On 1/5/2017 at 1:15 AM, MassBassin508 said:

I got this V&M slip n jig in my LTB a few months back I haven't tried out.Its either 1/2 or 3/4 skirted Punch weight.I don't know if anyone has tried them.Basically a skirted heavy t-rig.

I imagine they are just like SK's slither rig, which I have tried. I like not having to add so many pieces to the rig so these get two thumbs up in my book.

CTBassin860 reply :

On 1/5/2017 at 1:17 AM, RichF said:

I'll choose a jig to punch with over the typical stuff anytime I can get away with it. Less working parts = more flips/pitches/punches.

I imagine they are just like SK's slither rig, which I have tried. I like not having to add so many pieces to the rig so these get two thumbs up in my book.

Yea its the same exact thing

Pond won't freeze out here.I may take the new reel out for a test drive and get it dialed in!Not sure how much action ill get flipping and slow rolling some jigs but a man has to try.

J Francho reply :

On 1/5/2017 at 1:08 AM, Catt said:

I"m ole school, I can punch all that with a jig!

We've been known to use a jig like that to punch through thin, melting ice on ponds in early spring!

Catt reply :

On 1/5/2017 at 1:17 AM, RichF said:

I'll choose a jig to punch with over the typical stuff anytime I can get away with it. Less working parts = more flips/pitches/punches.

Now ya talking my language!

2 rods I have on my deck 24/7/365, a jug rod & a Texas rig!

On 1/5/2017 at 1:15 AM, MassBassin508 said:

I got this V&M slip n jig in my LTB a few months back I haven't tried out.Its either 1/2 or 3/4 skirted Punch weight.I don't know if anyone has tried them.Basically a skirted heavy t-rig.

That's what we refer to as a Texas Rigged Jig, they have been around awhile.

Mike L reply :

On 1/4/2017 at 10:27 PM, RyneB said:

not sure of the type of vegetation, as it seems to be several different kinds, and I'm not aquatic vegetation expert. But it's this stuff, and a lot of times it has a snotty and slimey stuff underneath. This is a place I fish often.

Down here that's prime frog, skimming a magnum speed worm and swim bait territory. Not saying I wouldn't punch through the heavier sections, but with all those scattered holes punching wouldn't be my first choice. But I can certainly see why anyone would.

On 1/5/2017 at 1:08 AM, Catt said:

I spend 95% of my time on the water flipping, pitching, or punching some gnarly looking something!

There are two types of cover I consider peg worthy.

Pre-spawn Buck Brush on Toledo Bend & water hyacinths in south Louisiana marshes. Buck brush because you will undoubtedly ricochet one off a limb & the hyacinths will just eat your lure!

Everything else no problem!

I"m ole school, I can punch all that with a jig!

Again from my frame of reference most punchable areas say on Okeechobee are the second, third and parts of the fourth pictures. Those down here I wouldn't even think about not pegging.

The last picture is perfect for any type of t rig, swimming bait, and especially jigs.

Depending on the usual condition consideration's.

I posted this in response to 2 pm's I got asking how I'd fish these areas in some of the lakes down here especially Big O, Istokpoga and Toho.

I really like seeing pictures of the actual water guys fish in around the country especially when asking what, how and where to use specific baits, equipment, tackle and techniques..

Thanks Ryan and Catt, I hope others in the future follow your lead.

Mike

bagofdonuts reply :

Started pegging weights on fishing trips to big O. Now I peg the weight most of the time if I flippin soft plastics. Its easy, effective and cheap (you get 30 of them for 1.50). We don't have as much matted grass to punch, but i like the pegged weight around wood as well. Keeps the bait from separating and wrapping around a branch on the way in, low hanging green cypress limbs are really bad to get wrapped on and the pegging helps.

Catt reply :

Great response @Mike L

The first & third pictures are Toledo Bend, the second is the Atchafalaya Basin, & four/five are Lacassine Wildlife Refuge.

Lacassine is very much like Florida except shallow; those "pencil rods" (what we call em) to the right is so dense a 101# trolling can not penetrate!

@bagofdonuts just how much separation do you believe there is with say a 1/2 weight when flipped/pitched a reasonable distance?

bagofdonuts reply :

usually none. but occasionally i make a bad pitch and bounce off a limb going in, that's when you get separation (but not if it's pegged).

fishindad reply :

Enough with the pics already - I'm in the frozen North and it'll be months before I can do any punching, lol!

Catt reply :

On 1/6/2017 at 2:43 AM, fishindad said:

Enough with the pics already - I'm in the frozen North and it'll be months before I can do any punching, lol!

XzyluM reply :

@CattHow do you attack that third picture? We have similar looking grass here that looks like Christmas trees all over the water, not sure what exactly it is. I have had success fishing the edges of it since that is how my friend usually fishes it, but I always wonder what the proper way to attack it punching would be since I am pretty sure there is much bigger fish hiding in it.

Catt reply :

On 1/6/2017 at 3:37 AM, XzyluM said:

@CattHow do you attack that third picture? We have similar looking grass here that looks like Christmas trees all over the water, not sure what exactly it is. I have had success fishing the edges of it since that is how my friend usually fishes it, but I always wonder what the proper way to attack it punching would be since I am pretty sure there is much bigger fish hiding in it.

That's a cheek channel cove, it's 12-14' deep in the middle & cover bank to bank with Hydrilla Verticillata.

Punching is the only way!

XzyluM reply :

On 1/6/2017 at 3:46 AM, Catt said:

That's a cheek channel cove, it's 12-14' deep in the middle & cover bank to bank with Hydrilla Verticillata.

Punching is the only way!

You mind explaining your typical setup for punching that? Like what size weight it normally requires? I plan on attacking it that way the next time I have the opportunity to fish it and am looking for an idea where to start. And thanks for the reply, always enjoy reading your posts.

RyneB reply :

Mike L, I frog it and gambler big ez it as well. Seems the winning technique in tourneys is always punching it though.

Catt reply :

On 1/6/2017 at 3:52 AM, XzyluM said:

You mind explaining your typical setup for punching that? Like what size weight it normally requires? I plan on attacking it that way the next time I have the opportunity to fish it and am looking for an idea where to start. And thanks for the reply, always enjoy reading your posts.

Terry Oldham's EyeMax jig 3/4, 1, or 1.25 oz, color Coontail with a Rage Tail Lobster, color Falcon Lake Craw.

Rage Tail's Magnum Structure Bug, tungsten weight 3/4-1.5 oz, & Owner 4/0 Jungle Hook

Do Not fish the grass...fish the structure under the grass!

Mosster47 reply :

80lb Suffix 832, Bobber stop, tungsten, punch skirt, snelled punch hook, and anything made by Gambler.

A frog or flipping rod works, but I really prefer a heavy with a moderate or moderate/fast action.

CTBassin860 reply :

target practice! A cup on top of a trashcan.

SwampLife reply :

On 1/6/2017 at 6:20 AM, Catt said:

Terry Oldham's EyeMax jig 3/4, 1, or 1.25 oz, color Coontail with a Rage Tail Lobster, color Falcon Lake Craw.

Rage Tail's Magnum Structure Bug, tungsten weight 3/4-1.5 oz, & Owner 4/0 Jungle Hook

Do Not fish the grass...fish the structure under the grass!

Yeah Catt, nothing like a hyacinth Matt circling cypress trees and knees...

fishindad reply :

On 1/6/2017 at 3:02 AM, Catt said:

Catt, thank you sir. Images of those big bass just waiting for a meal helps me get through these long winters!!

Dypsis reply :

When you do find it better to use a skirt as compared to just a weight and the plastic?

Mike L reply :

I use a skirt almost always when I want a bulkier presentation and always when I know they're feeding on bluegills, and also in stained water.

Don't get hung up in thinking a punch skirt should only be used for punching either. It gives a different look entirely to your t rig that they may not have seen in areas where most won't think of useing one.

Mike

Dypsis reply :

On 1/6/2017 at 6:20 AM, Catt said:

Terry Oldham's EyeMax jig 3/4, 1, or 1.25 oz, color Coontail with a Rage Tail Lobster, color Falcon Lake Craw.

Rage Tail's Magnum Structure Bug, tungsten weight 3/4-1.5 oz, & Owner 4/0 Jungle Hook

Do Not fish the grass...fish the structure under the grass!

I've pretty much done zero punching, but I do love jig fishing (getting better every year). When punching grass do you find the hook, while it does have the weed guard, gets cluttered with grass or is it not too much of any issue.

fissure_man reply :

On 1/13/2017 at 12:47 AM, Dypsis said:

I've pretty much done zero punching, but I do love jig fishing (getting better every year). When punching grass do you find the hook, while it does have the weed guard, gets cluttered with grass or is it not too much of any issue.

Pretty sure you'll get a macho response about how "real men can punch with jigs"...

But for us mere mortals, a punch rig will come through thick matted weeds more easily than a jig. Any benefit you get from fish "preferring" the jig profile over the punch rig will be offset by the lost efficiency from more frequent hang-ups, IMO.

If you do go the jig route, your choice of head design and weed guard will make a big difference; look for one designed for punching/grass fishing.

Catt reply :

On 1/13/2017 at 12:47 AM, Dypsis said:

I've pretty much done zero punching, but I do love jig fishing (getting better every year). When punching grass do you find the hook, while it does have the weed guard, gets cluttered with grass or is it not too much of any issue.

Some guys just cannot fish jigs in grass

The key is to stay as vertical as possible

The farther off away from the boat ya flip your punch rig/jig the more grass ya gonna have to come through. The more grass ya pull through the greater odds of loosing fish.

The hottest technique on Toledo lately is big football head jigs in grass!

Below is a EyeMax Jig

ClackerBuzz reply :

On 1/6/2017 at 3:52 AM, XzyluM said:

You mind explaining your typical setup for punching that? Like what size weight it normally requires? I plan on attacking it that way the next time I have the opportunity to fish it and am looking for an idea where to start. And thanks for the reply, always enjoy reading your posts.

I fished a small lake like this for several seasons. it would get choked with Hydrilla just like in the pix. like Catt mentioned, short casts are key when punching. don't worry about the bass seeing you 10ft away b/c the grass is so thick it becomes a wall. i used two approaches when punching: attacking the upper half of weed column; and attacking the bottom half of weed column. the bottom half is easy and required a 1-1.5oz punch weight. the upper half requires less weight and more finesse. i got more bites if i used 1/4-3/8 oz and spent time gently shaking the lure down the weed 'branches'. a beaver trailer is standard but don't restrict yourself. a 4-5" senko, zoom finesse worm, Zman Zinker etc slip thru Hydrilla like butter. one Zinker will last you all day. forget standard craws b/c the weeds alone will tear them off.

the bass in my lake are very skittish so a little finesse goes along way. the typical heavy punch rig didn't produce well so i used a 1/4-1/2 cylinder drop shot, with short leader, an EWG hook, and 5" senko (i called it my punch-drop). I used braid as my mainline and a small tag of mono or lighter braid for the drop shot leader. it went thru weeds much better and I got more bites b/c it fell slower. the bass also prefered the gentle shake thru method. I don't fish the lake anymore but if i go back i'm going to use @J Francho rig. having the line above the weight tremendously helps the vertical physics of gently shaking lighter weight downward.

also try a buzzbait or ur favorite topwater in 1-6ft skinny water at dusk/dawn, cloudy/prefrontal conditions. bass often hold in the bottom half of the weeds in the heat of the day but will sit in the tops at night. topwater is useless when they are deep in their caves but they have no problem surfacing when they are in the upper column, especially if the upper half is only 3 ft. Horny toads are a nice alternative to buzzbaits b/c they float on thick weeds or slow sink in pockets so you can add pauses if the bass aren't in a chasing mood. frogs work great. if you like frogs make sure to cast them onto the shore and hop them in.

it's what's under the Hydrilla that's most important. the creek channel is key and is one of the easiest things to locate. find the creek channel under those thick weeds and you'll find gold. Start where it enters the shoreline and work your way from there. also do some recon this winter while the grass is dead and find deep timber that will be swallowed by weeds this summer. timber is another prime spot b/c they hold both bass and bait. rocks//pebble/sand are harder to find and you just have to focus on feeling the tick with heavy weights.

be on the lookout for when two different kinds of weeds come together. they create a seam that fish love to relate to. or where lily pads meet the Hydrilla.

if ur having a hard time stick to shallow water 1-3ft. the bass are much more likely to bite b/c they don't have to travel far. try slow dragging a weedless senko thru the tops but put a glass bead in front of it. it will slip thru w/o getting hung up. don't forget to periodically burn it like a topwater.

thick hydrilla is a mess for anglers but bass sure do love it. it's worth learning how to fish it.

Catt reply :

Dead on @ClackerBuzz

Most anglers try forcing a T-rig/jig through grass which is all wrong, you gotta finesse the T-rig/jig through grass!

When you feel the lure starting to load up in the grass...stop! Release pressure, pull up until you feel heaviness again but apply slightly more pressure, then release, continue until the lure breaks free. You want the motion to be similar to & as fast as working a shaky head, you're just applying more pressure.

Turkey sandwich reply :

On 1/13/2017 at 12:33 PM, Catt said:

Dead on @ClackerBuzz

Most anglers try forcing a T-rig/jig through grass which is all wrong, you gotta finesse the T-rig/jig through grass!

When you feel the lure starting to load up in the grass...stop! Release pressure, pull up until you feel heaviness again but apply slightly more pressure, then release, continue until the lure breaks free. You want the motion to be similar to & as fast as working a shaky head, you're just applying more pressure.

I haven't fished much water requiring punching in a while, but this has produced extremely well for me in the past. When I taught myself to fish heavy, matted vegetation back in the 90s, all I had to work with were T-rigs and grass/Arky jigs. That said, there is definitely an art to dragging a T-rigged worm across vegetation and working it into pockets, and it's well worth learning. In addition to having a heavy punching rig, I really like a lighter 3/8 - 1 oz T-rig and 7-9" plastic worm of choice to work the surface and area just below pads or holes in mats once I start to pattern fish sitting high in the water column. I prefer pegging the weight 90% of the time. You can do the same with a jig (I like a durable trailer like a beaver with the front end trimmed off, or even pork if I can still find it).

bigfruits reply :

when i think of punching, i dont think of fishing grass or pads. i think of a layer of vegetation that a mouse could maybe walk on top of

for this kind of punching i will use one or two bobber stops every time. if i dont, i get the bait wrapped up too often in the muck or it hangs on top. sometimes i lay the bait on the top of the layer and shake it until it works its way under. having the weight pegged makes this easier for me. your results may vary.

Dypsis reply :

How important are double footed guides vs single footed or is this something you don't think about as long as the power/taper are correct?

6218

Punching what do I need to know 2024

related Fishing Tackle topic

previous topic

next topic

most viewed Fishing Tackle topic