Question for guys who fish straight floro/mono, why do you? 2024
Ogandrews reply :
I have been fishing strictly braid to a leader for 4-5 years now and love it. I know a lot of guys fish straight floro or mono, including a lot of pros. I believe that braid to a leader has so many benefits that I just don’t see the point of using anything else. I don’t want this post to come off as me telling you guys that if you don’t fish like me that your wrong, I’m just honestly wondering what benefits you guys see of fishing floro or mono. I’m curious to see what you guys have to say because it seems like the majority of guys aren’t using braid/leader. Probably not going to change the way I fish but always interested to see some other perspectives.
kayaking_kev reply :
I have setups with braid to a leader, and setups with str8 floro and str8 mono.
Sometimes I prefer the sensitivity of braid for bottom contact applications, and sometimes I want the stretch of mono for topwater, and sometimes I want floro to get a bait down deep faster, or a rod might have microwave guides that don't like leader knots, and I sometimes I just don't like tying an extra knot.
WRB reply :
1 knot.
I learned to fish using braid in the early 50's and changed to monofilament line in the late 50's to early 60's when it became availble because it was transparent and easier to cast.
Adding a leader to braid was the 1st logical step because mono was first available as leader line before larger size spools were availble.
Braid died out during the 70's when bass tournament pro's promoted various brands of mono until "super braid" Spider wire line made from Spectra high strength fibers. Super braid was smaller in diameter then Dacron braid and because the new kid on the block.
Super braid destroyed rod guides, reel level winds and bass were lost at the boat do to rods not being flexible enough. Super braid fell off in popularity and coploymer lines became popular like Maxima And P-Line CXX until Fluorocarbon line started becoming popular with bass anglers around 2000. Fluorocarbon was marketed as being invisiable to fish under water and anglers bought into the hype.
Fluorocarbon has lots of memory with line twist and knot strength issues.
Along cones newer Teflon or polyuerathane coated super braid resolving the abrasion issues and FC leaders resolve the line twist issues, the combination receives approval by the pros and they promote it.
Along comes FC nemeses knot strength and to resolve that problem dozens of new knots are introduced. Nothing can overcome the knot strength issue. 2 knots are twice as likely to fail as 1 knot.
Knowledgeable bass anglers know bass are not line shy fish so FC offers little advantage over mono with superior knot strength. Braid offers no advantage other then being smaller in diameter per lb test.
1 knot is 100% more reliable then 2 knots.
Tom
jimmyjoe reply :
Braid doesn't feed well off the reel spool on baitcasters if you're trying for distance.
Braid digs into the spool under heavy load (a heavy pull).
Braid has lousy abrasion resistance.
Braid has lousy knot strength. The sudden slam on the knot when you have a backlash sends some very expensive lures sailing into the next county.
Braid has no stretch. You can tear the hook right out of the fish's mouth on an imperfect hookset.
The braid-to-leader knot can catch on guides, giving you a backlash.
The Braid-to-leader knot can catch on guides, cracking an insert or popping it out.
Braid can absorb silt in muddy or silty water, making it far more abrasive than mono.
Braid costs too much. The advertisements about using braid for multiple seasons are b.s. if you have an abrasive environment.
Braid on spinning reels twists worse than a tornado, giving rise to sudden "wind" knots. And they're worse than a backlash on a baitcaster; you often need to cut them out.
So in a nutshell ..... mono is inexpensive, predictable and forgiving. Braid is none of those things. jj
Ogandrews reply :
On 2/27/2020 at 12:50 PM, WRB said:1 knot.
I learned to fish using braid in the early 50's and changed to monofilament line in the late 50's to early 60's when it became availble because it was transparent and easier to cast.
Padding a leader to braid was the 1st logical step because mono was first available as leader line before larger size spools were availble.
Braid died out during the 70's when bass tournament pro's promoted various brands of mono until "super braid" Spider wire line made from Spectra high strength fibers. Super braid was smaller in diameter then Dacron braid and because the new kid on the block.
Super braid destroyed rod guides, reel level winds and bass were lost at the boat do to rods not being flexible enough. Super braid fell off in popularity and coploymer lines became popular like Maxima And P-Line CXX until Fluorocarbon line started becoming popular with bass anglers around 2000. Fluorocarbon was marketed as being invisiable to fish under water and anglers bought into the hype.
Fluorocarbon has lots of memory with line twist and knot strength issues.
Along cones newer Teflon or polyuerathane coated super braid resolving the abrasion issues and FC leaders resolve the line twist issues, the combination receives approval by the pros and they promote it.
Along comes FC nemeses knot strength and to resolve that problem dozens of new knots are introduced. Nothing can overcome the knot strength issue. 2 knots are twice as likely to fail as 1 knot.
Knowledgeable bass anglers know bass are not line shy fish so FC offers little advantage over mono with superior knot strength. Braid offers no advantage other then being smaller in diameter per lb test.
1 knot is 100% more reliable then 2 knots.
Tom
I have never once broken a properly tied leader knot while fighting a fish so I don’t even consider that 2 knots as being an issue. I would argue that some of the benefits of braid are increased casting distance, better sensitivity, better hook sets, in my opinion better depth when fishing a crank because of the smaller diameter, being able to change out your leader line on the fly for different presentations without respooling an entire reel. I use mono for almost all of my leaders and have them usually 10-15 ft long so I still get the benefit of the stretch. There are some techniques I can somewhat get why guys wouldn’t like braid, but for stuff like jigs, flipping, punching, or finesse presentations where sensitivity is a big deal I really don’t get why you wouldn’t be using braid to a leader. Thanks for the input
WRB reply :
When the bass exceed the line lb test of the line knots become an issue. Braid offers nothing in sensitivety and mono doesn't strecth under fishing pressure loads. Set your drag and trust your rod and reel to perform.
I have caught hundreds of DD bass using mono with jigs casting over 100' in water over 15' deep.
Bottom line is what you have confidence using.
Tom
Ogandrews reply :
On 2/27/2020 at 1:14 PM, jimmyjoe said:Braid doesn't feed well off the reel spool on baitcasters if you're trying for distance.
Braid digs into the spool under heavy load (a heavy pull).
Braid has lousy abrasion resistance.
Braid has lousy knot strength. The sudden slam on the knot when you have a backlash sends some very expensive lures sailing into the next county.
Braid has no stretch. You can tear the hook right out of the fish's mouth on an imperfect hookset.
The braid-to-leader knot can catch on guides, giving you a backlash.
The Braid-to-leader knot can catch on guides, cracking an insert or popping it out.
Braid can absorb silt in muddy or silty water, making it far more abrasive than mono.
Braid costs too much. The advertisements about using braid for multiple seasons are b.s. if you have an abrasive environment.
Braid on spinning reels twists worse than a tornado, giving rise to sudden "wind" knots. And they're worse than a backlash on a baitcaster; you often need to cut them out.
So in a nutshell ..... mono is inexpensive, predictable and forgiving. Braid is none of those things. jj
I do agree with you that wind knots suck but it’s not a super common issue for me, but most of your other points are things that I really don’t deal with. If the braid is spooled correctly (pretty much as tight as you can) than I never have it dig in even while musky and pike fishing. I get significantly better casting distance with braid. If tied correctly I do not break knots in braid, you just can’t tie it like your tieing mono. Braid having very little stretch is great in some applications, and when I need stretch a longer mono leader and correct rod takes care of that. Never had issues with knots damaging guides, most of the time the knot is not noticeably much bigger than the line. Yea good braid is expensive, but I’ve used the same spool of 40lbs maxcuatro for 2 years without issue and the same spool of 80lbs courtland masterbraid for 3 years and it is still working great. Not trying to say your wrong it’s just in my experience theres a way around most of these issues
Finessegenics reply :
Braid is only sensitive on a tight line. Fluoro is the way to go on techniques where you’ll have lots of slack line out at once.
On the other hand, braid twists a lot less and even when it does twist, it is much more manageable than mono or fluoro. I only find this to be an issue on my spinning reels.
I only use braid on my spinning gear, where thin and soft line can really fling your presentation out there when needed. I find braid too thin and soft to throw on casting reels, just seems like mono and fluoro works better.
it’s crazy to think that not too long ago, people fished frogs on mono and lots still do. They did just fine so I say use whatever you want.
kayaking_kev reply :
What mono do you guys like using? I haven't tried a bunch, but so far what I have tried, Trilene Sensation seems to be pretty good.
Finessegenics reply :
On 2/27/2020 at 1:45 PM, kayaking_kev said:What mono do you guys like using? I haven't tried a bunch, but so far what I have tried, Trilene Sensation seems to be pretty good.
Good old Trilene XL. I use Stren Original too and I see just a slight difference between that and the Trilene XL. Seems like the Trilene is almost double coated or something, it’s much smoother when you run it through your fingers. It’s less “wiry” than the stren but I haven’t had issues with either.
A lot of guys on here also swear by Big Game. I’ve used it in very heavy sizes for catfish and sturgeon so I can’t comment on it for bass fishing.
PhishLI reply :
I fish lots of spots that are loaded with pads, so when they're up I'm fishing straight braid. Even where there's open water near pads there's a chance that a fish will run me into them. I haven't lost a fish to a broken knot using 30lb braid or greater while fishing in or near pads. I have with 20lb though, so I don't bother with it.
Right now I'm running 8lb Advance copoly, 10lb Advance copoly, 12lb Big Game, 15lb High Seas Copoly, 15lb Trilene Fluoro, 17lb Seige, and 20 Lb Big Game. My thumb, brake settings, and awareness need to be on point as a kink after a fluff up or a backlash means re-spooling. Besides that, I like fishing with plastic lines for their different properties. They're all strong enough for bass fishing.
One thing I like about plastic lines is this: I end up bomb casting alot because much my fishing is done by wading lakes right off the bank. Regardless of the fact that 99% of the fish I hook are within 50 ft of where I'm standing, I can't help it. When I'm not getting bites close I need to cover water. I tell myself that I might get followed in from 150 out. Maybe I do. In this scenario, bomb casting, I find plastic lines are more forgiving than braid. I can put more mustard on the cast at lower brake settings and get fantastic distance, especially with lighter lures.
Several factors are in play here including these: Wet plastic is slick and doesn't key into itself like wet braid does. It also doesn't fight as hard through the level wind, especially on reels where the level wind's aperture is oriented closer to the spool, or not dead center. Plastic might fluff in the middle of a hard cast, but will usually correct quickly. At the same point braid will often wrap around the spool causing a hard backlash. This happens less with 50lb braid and up, but it's still more frequent than mono. I haven't had a single fatal backlash since I re-spooled with plastic lines in November, and I'm constantly shooting for the moon, so it's not much of an issue for me.
So I'll use plastic lines until I can't, then switch to braid when I must. In either case it will be full spools. I hate a leader knot going through my guides on casting gear, but I'll tolerate it for spinning setups.
DanielG reply :
Strange to say but I gave up mono/floro just to get rid of the annoying coiling aspect of it that always seems to build up over time and I have to straighten it out.
That being said, I was weened on mono and really like it for fishing. The stretchiness feels right to me.
Sam reply :
As Tom pens, "1 knot is 100% more reliable then 2 knots."
That is a correct statement.
A pro told me to tie your braid line directly to the bait, hook or snap.
You have to know your water as braid and rocks do not seem to agree with each other and you want some stretch for treble hook baits so there are times when fluorocarbon and mono are still the best.
Catt reply :
Ya hear that noise braid makes going through your guides?
If you're fishing brush, timber, laydowns, (wood) it makes that same noise coming over it.
Wood that has been underwater for years the braid will actually cut into the wood causing you to hang up.
With straight braid when you get hung up ya gonna have to cut it off. Now ya got a big ol piece of line floating around waiting to wrap someone's prop.
Fluorocarbon is to expensive for poor of abrasion resistance & shock absorption.
If I gotta walk around with a bottle of line conditioner in my back pocket just to use Fluorocarbon then that's the wrong line for me.
Jig Man reply :
I fish a lot of clear highland reservoirs. They are rocky so there are lots of hang ups with bottom baits. I tried the braid with leader for a couple of years and got tired of retying leaders in the wind. One trip I got beat like a read headed step child by a guy in the back of my boat using fluorocarbon line while I was using mono. After 2 trips of that I bought some fluorocarbon. I now run it on most of my setups. I use 10# and under on spinning set ups.
Spankey reply :
The only thing I fish braid on is my frogging, flipping and pitching set up.
I just can’t seem to make the change over. I’m probably too old and too much a creature of habit.
I’m pretty much a diehard Berkley XT, XL, Big Game and Fluoro guy. But this past season have used some McCoy and SUNLINE. I like them.
I’m working on another set up just for pitching and flipping. I think I’ll stick to braid there. My lighter fishing I think I’d better leave well enough alone.
TBAG reply :
Main reason for me is I hate tying knots so one knot for me.
Other main reason is most of my bottom contact rods have micro guides and I hate the feel and sound of slapping leader knots.
Ogandrews reply :
Thanks for the reply’s, opens my eyes up a good amount as to why you guys do it. One point I didn’t mention is that pretty much every rod I own I also use for pike/musky/walleye fishing. For pike and musky there is no reason to use anything besides braid to 60-120+lbs floro leader, titanium, or straight piano wire, with as bony as their mouths are you need every advantage to get the hooks set well into them. They also fight a lot differently than a bass, but when they want to make a real run you need serious line strength unless your finesse fishing with a really light drag. For walleye it’s not as big of a deal, but a few situations it makes a difference. Most of my eye fishing is done in rivers with strong current down to depths over 40ft, and trying to keep the bait as vertical as possible. 10lbs braid is going to get dragged way less my the current than 10lbs mono which makes it way easier to present the bait how you want. Also when I’m fishing live bait in a lake situation, most of the time your fishing a tight line and the only thing you feel of the bite is a tiny tap, in my experience it’s a lot easier to feel that on braid with a lot of line out. I’m going to keep fishing braid to a leader because that’s what I’m confident in, but i can understand why if I was strictly bass fishing the advantage of the other 2.
greentrout reply :
i like braid on my spinning reels for finesse soft plastic presentations ... can throw it a mile ... very sensitive ... strong hooksets ...
make sure you don't put too much line on the spool and always close the bail with your hand ...
use spiderwire stealth and berkley fire line 20 and 14 lbs ...
good fishing ...
WRB reply :
On 2/27/2020 at 1:45 PM, kayaking_kev said:What mono do you guys like using? I haven't tried a bunch, but so far what I have tried, Trilene Sensation seems to be pretty good.
.010D / 11 lb to 016D / 25 lb I use Sunline Defier Armillo Nylon mono and .008D / 5 lb Maxima Ultra Green Copoly, .009 D/ 7 lb Sunline Sniper Fluorocarbon lines.
Braid 60 lb original FINS for heavy cover with no leader.
Tom
Mobasser reply :
I still like and use mono line for all my fishing. Baitcast reels 12 to 15lb Trilene Big Game. Spin reels 6 to 8lb Stren or Trilene XL. I like the way it handles and cast. Any fish I've lost in almost 40yrs has been my own fault, not any fault of the mono line. I see no need to change now
Catt reply :
All 3 line types have their place ????
Braid; frigging & punching
Monofilament; everything else
Fluorocarbon; trash can
Berkley Big Game 15#
Mobasser reply :
I have tried flourocarbon but didn't care for the poor knot strength, and the kink it always seemed to have
On 2/27/2020 at 11:28 PM, Catt said:All 3 line types have there place ????
Braid; frigging & punching
Monofilament; everything else
Fluorocarbon; trash can
Berkley Big Game 15#
Catt, I am going to spool some braid this year for a frog setup I've put together, but that's it for me. Everything else I'll go with mono. I can't see what the big deal is with flourocarbon. I havnt tried that many brands, but the ones I tried acted the same. Poor knot retention, tends to jump off the spool, and kink up too. When I'm fishing I want to be casting, not fooling with my line. I never have these problems with monfilament
king fisher reply :
I use all three types of line. Mono is my standard default go to line. If I am using a technique that a feel It would be better to use braid or floro I will use it. I use straight braid for punching and flipping, because I need the strength of heavy braid and anytime line capacity is an issue. I use straight floro for some crank bait fishing because it sinks and has smaller diameter per lbs. test. I use braid to floro on finesse spinning outfits because I want the sensitivity, and for most live bait fishing because fish have the opportunity to look live bait over for a long time before deciding to strike so visibility could be a factor. All other applications I prefer mono, and if I could only use one line it would be mono. Braid to leader knots are a weak, link this is a fact. I'm not saying that you can't land thousands of fish, and never have one fail. I'm sure many have. I have done many knot tests, and there is no braid to leader knot that is any where close to 100 percent. I used double uni knot for years and swore by it, but when testing knots I found double uni is only a 60 percent knot at best. I know there are people that will swear that the double uni is 100 percent knot, never fails and have landed thousands of fish using it. I'm sure they have and will continue to another site. I was in the same club for years, but now use Alberto for light braid to leader, and FG for leader 30lbs and up. I rarely have the line break,( almost always on a snag), when using braid to leader, but when I do it will be within one inch of the braid to leader knot. Some times I just like my fishing to be less complicated, by Filling a reel with cost effective mono, and tying one strong knot.
Tizi reply :
I use mono, flouro, and braid. Never with leaders. Reason: simplicity. I like to keep it as simple as possible.
The Maestro reply :
For the places and the ways that I like to fish, i run straight braid on everything. The odd time that I may be dropdropshotting is the only time I'll run a flouro leader.
Mike L reply :
Braid...Punching, Frogging and on top
Flouro...Everything else
Mono...Hang pictures on the wall
Leaders...Only for salt water fishing
Mike
WRB reply :
On 2/27/2020 at 11:28 PM, Catt said:All 3 line types have there place ????
Braid; frigging & punching
Monofilament; everything else
Fluorocarbon; trash can
Berkley Big Game 15#
Frigging FC
DitchPanda reply :
Only thing I personally like braid for is frogging... don't like the digging in casting issues with braid plus I fish a lot of rip rap and feel braid gets tore up bad around rock..if I fished more grass id use more braid..cranking and topwater I use mono...and use copoly for everything else...I'm not a fluoro guy either..I've also never done leaders for the reason of I've not needed to so why have another failure point
crypt reply :
On 2/27/2020 at 1:29 PM, WRB said:When the bass exceed the line lb test of the line knots become an issue. Braid offers nothing in sensitivety and mono doesn't strecth under fishing pressure loads. Set your drag and trust your rod and reel to perform.
I have caught hundreds of DD bass using mono with jigs casting over 100' in water over 15' deep.
Bottom line is what you have confidence using.
Tom
Tom said it best..........confidence.....same reason I use mono..........
TnRiver46 reply :
Braid makes everything take longer, even without a leader. No need for knife or scissors with mono. Leaders take up time. No line lasts forever, if you are switching lures it all gets too short at the same rate. If I make a list of pros and cons, it's all cons for braid except no stretch for fishing heavy grass . All cons and only one pro, no thanks.
fissure_man reply :
I think the ‘2 knots’ argument against leaders is overblown. If you’re not confident that you can tie two knots in succession that will withstand the loads you put on them, you need to tie better knots or change your equipment (drag setting, line type/strength). Regardless of the number of knots you tie, breakoffs should be a very rare occurrence because there’s no need to test the absolute limit of the line/knot strength. I use leaders frequently and I don’t remember the last time I broke off a fish at the leader knot – almost all breakoffs for me (other than snags and pike bite-offs) happen when I’m using light line and being lazy, not retying frequently enough. On paper, my inclusion of a leader knot adds another potential point of failure, but if it’s never failing in practice, does it matter?
A hypothetical knot might achieve 70% of the line’s “un-knotted” strength, with a standard deviation of 10% (assume normal distribution). For 10 lb test, that would be 7 lb knot strength with a standard deviation of 1 lb. If you tie one of these knots and then load it to 7 lb, you have a 50% chance of that knot failing. If you tie two of those knots and apply the same load, you have a 75% chance of failure. Adding the second knot in this case increased the odds of failure by a factor of 1.5 - not twice as likely, but certainly a considerable difference.
However alarming the above may seem, tying fewer knots is not an effective solution (even the single knot case failed 50% of the time). Instead, just use a strong enough line for your application and set your drag appropriately. Using the same example and parameters as above, if you change the maximum load to 3.5 lb (i.e. by setting your drag) the likelihood of failure drops to around 0.025% for 1 knot, 0.050% for 2 knots. At this point our failure rates are differing by a factor of 2, but the magnitude of the difference is trivial (0.025%). 2 times as likely as something that is very rare…. is still very rare. (i.e. buying two lottery tickets doubles your chances of winning, but I still wouldn't count on winning)
Bottom line for me – tie good knots, retie frequently (doesn’t matter how strong your knot is if you’ve abraded the line above it to a thread), know your weakest link, and don’t overload it. No issue with preferring mono or flouro mainlines for some applications; I do it myself. But the justification shouldn’t be a fear of knot strength IMO.
TnRiver46 reply :
^theres another reason not to use braid/leader. Math and statistics are involved. If I have to consider standard deviation while fishing, then I'm doing it wrong
kayaking_kev reply :
Off topic a bit, but since we're talking about line. Is there a line that the T-Wing system from Daiwa likes or doesn't like before I spool them up? Thanks!
RichF reply :
I use all types of lines depending on what the cover is and what bait I'm using. I'm not a fan of leaders but do use them occasionally. I found that running the leader knot through the guides of the rod over and over will eventually weaken it (especially under the strain of fighting a fish). Yes, you should retie often, but I would rather not waste the time on the water so I either don't use them or make them short enough that they never reach the guides.
You can throw any lure on any type of line and it will "work", it may just not be the best/most efficient for the job.
Tennessee Boy reply :
t = time required to tie a knot
2t = time required to tie two knots
2t > t
OCdockskipper reply :
I like mono for many of my baitcasting applications, but am not locked into it. However, for spinning applications, there is no comparison between braid or superlines and mono as far as ease of use, casting distance, etc.
For my spinning gear, I use Nanofil & FC leaders because I fish clear waters. It does take more time to prep the night before having to tie leader knots, but my experience is it results in more bites (on my lake).
I don't mind the extra time leaders cause me to have to fight & unhook fish.????
J Francho reply :
For years, we used mono because that's all we had. There were times when it wasn't the best. For those times, we other choices. For times when those other choices in line types aren't better, I keep using what always worked.
QUAKEnSHAKE reply :
The best use for mono is as backing for the better lines, braid & FC
Fishes in trees reply :
Remembering the advice of my old grumpy shop teacher, "Use the right tool for the job!" I sometimes use mono, sometimes braid and often fluorocarbon. I don't always guess right, and there is something to be said for experimentation, so that is why I use all 3. Explaining the "logic" (if that is what it is ) behind my various line choices for various applications, and why I might want to experiment, would make this post excessively long.
ChrisD46 reply :
For spinning I like Braid + Leader (usually FC or Co-Poly of #4lb. to #10 lb. line size)
Braid + Leader (mono) for topwater
Braid for punching / frogging
FC for jigs or bottom contact applications
Co-Poly or Mono for crank baits (most use FC line for cranks but I fish pretty cranks shallow so I get by without FC line).
813basstard reply :
Moving baits get mono
Semi heavy stuff gets FC
Heavy stuff gets 65 Braid
No leader. No secret knots.
Pair of pliers, jug of water and I’m good
rdj735 reply :
I like fluorocarbon for slow, bottom-contact lures, because I'm a line-watcher, and it seems as though its sinking properties give a more direct path from rod to lure vs braid or mono I've tried. That being said, I'm gonna try some co-polymer stuff this season to see if a different sinking line could offer that same advantage. I typically use mono when the lure is being reeled continuously. To answer the OP's question, I'm with others in that I don't like the second knot. Not only is it a weak point, but I just can't get over the sound of it going through the guides.
Bluebasser86 reply :
It's the best tool for the job for me. Braid sucks in the wind, something we have a ton of here. Combine heavy wind with a slack line presentation, it's terrible.
Hammer 4 reply :
I did the braid with leader thang some years ago, for about a year. What I found was, there was No improvement in my catching fish, what I did experience was a loss of a 20.00 lure from the fc snapping during a cast, which was likely my fault. After that day, no more leaders.
Braid..froggin, flippin and punching.
I have 1 spinning rig with fc, and 1 baitcaster with fc, for bottom work. All my other rigs are filled with mono. Once the fc wears out, those rigs will get spooled with ...you guessed it, Mono.
Dvo509 reply :
I use braid to fluoro on all my drop shot and Ned rig applications. I like straight fluoro for jig fishing,swimbaits, crankbaits, and chatterbaits. Straight braid for frogging, punching, and heavy duty jigs. I still use straight mono when deadsticking weightless senkos because I 100% watch my slack line and mono tends to float and give it a slower sink rate that has always worked for me. This is how I use my line but I am always up for changes and tweaks.
Glaucus reply :
Because there's only one knot and not everything works well with straight braid.
4reelfishing reply :
I am braid to mono leader guy. That being said I use straight mono on my crankbait/spinnerbait rod because braid to mono doesn't help in that situation. Wacky rig I sometimes go straight mono as well.
Straight braid for frogging.
boostr reply :
When I'm bank fishing and only limited to bringing three rods I do the braid to flouro or mono. In my boat I have a rod for each specific technique I use so they have straight flouro, mono or braid the exception being my spinning rod that I use for Neko/Wacky/Ned/ hard jerk baits that will get braid to Flouro because for visibility and also cause the cover changes so much when I'm throwing Neko/Ned/Wacky from grass to rock to wood or all three at the same time. Especially when I'm skipping under docks.
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