Major Difference In Cheap Reels And Expensive Ones (Other Than Gear Ratio) 2024
AEWblackeagle8 reply :
I have a Abu Garcia Black Max 2 and I love it. All the other reels I have felt feel pretty much the same way. I bought this thing at Cabelas on sale for $32.99. I have messed around with some other reels and I can't feel or tell a $100 dollar difference. The Abu Garcia Revo SX (black and red one 6.4:1 I think) I can't really notice the difference between the Revo and the Black Max. I have been thinking about getting a *** *** either 7.1 or 8.1 but it's $175. I need some help please haha
Scott F reply :
Check your $33 reel against the $133 reel after using them both hard for a year. If you still can't feel the difference, buy the $33 model.
smalljaw67 reply :
If you can't tell the difference between a Revo SX and a Black Max it is because your mind is telling you to justify using the less expensive model. Now, just because one item cost more than another doesn't always mean it is better but when it comes to reels, what you get for $160 versus $50 is head and shoulders better. When you say "messed around" I'm assuming you just picked it up and handled it and cranked the handle a few times and I'm guessing the reel was on one of the little rod handles when you did that. The first thing is the weight, the SX is 1/2oz lighter, it isn't much but if you used the black max on your rod for an hour and then used the SX on the same rod, you'll notice that 1/2oz and it will feel like it weighs a lot more. Not just the weight but also cranking the reel under load from a fish or a lure like a spinnerbait, you'll notice how much better the gears are in the SX compared to the black max, because the 9 bearings versus the 4 is really going to make a big difference as the bearings and gears are going to be better in the SX because you are paying for better materials, the reels have to be made and when you buy a reel a lot of the cost has to do with features and material and every manufacturer is going to use a much better selection of materials in the $160 reel versus the $50 otherwise how would they get people to fork out that much more money if the one for $100 less was only marginally better?? Believe me, even if the Black Max was the best $50 dollar reel on the market, and it may be, it still isn't even close to the SX.
tholmes reply :
The major difference is in the quality of components. Gear Ratio has little to do with it. As ScottF alluded to in his post, the more costly reel will likely outlast the cheaper reel by a significant margin. As far as gear ratio, it's just as easy to make cheap high-speed reels as it is to make cheap slower reels.
The more expensive reel will likely have higher quality bearings, gears and other components that will make for a longer, more trouble-free life. At least, that's been my experience.
Tom
Jrob78 reply :
You can't really make a comparison until you've used both for a period of time.
5fishlimit reply :
I smell a cheap vs expensive debate coming.....
Delaware Valley Tackle reply :
The main difference between sub $100 and $100+ reels will be in longevity. Other features like weight, braking bearing count and quality are real but little more subtle.
k3bass reply :
All reels feel smooth when new, it's finding one that stays smooth that's the challenge.
A-Jay reply :
The Major Difference In Cheap Reels And Expensive Ones ~ As with many things, paying more doesn't guarantee a better functioning product.
There are some cheaper models that work well, and some that provide endless problems.
But the same can be said for some more expensive models.
There are sites that review the functioning of specific brands and models, which are useful in guiding your decisions.
Style and long term reliability often come into play but if you are happy with the cheaper ones then don't spend the bucks on something else.
They can easily be replaced should you change your mind down the road.
A-Jay
NorcalBassin reply :
One is a disposable, the other is something that will be reliable for many years
k3bass reply :
On 11/8/2015 at 7:54 AM, NorcalBassin said:One is a disposable, the other is something that will be reliable for many years
That's not always true. I've had many cheap reels that lasted for years....and many expensive reels that were junk after one season.
desmobob reply :
On 11/8/2015 at 8:46 AM, AEWblackeagle8 said:I'm thinking of this more like my bow hunting stuff now. If you buy a cheapo it will feel like crap compared to the top of the line stuff either in the beginning or later on down the road.
I think you have it figured out already...
Tight lines,
Bob
Montanaro reply :
My daiwa t3 1016 is heads and shoulders above my tatula.
Easier to palm, lighter, spool can throw light baits, skipping is easier, and braking system is phenomenal.
Tatula is a solid real I use a lot...but that extra coin reduces headaches/frustration.
soflabasser reply :
Expensive reels tend to be better made than cheap reels(more ball bearings,better drag,better metals used,longer lasting,etc).Still you can get a very good bass reel for less than $50.One of my favorite reels for bass is a discontinued BPS reel that has 10 ball bearings and has caught me plenty of bass and decent saltwater fish.
AEWblackeagle8 reply :
new2bc4bass thank you very much that makes perfect sense, do you think in the long run I would benefit more from the 6.6 or 7. Or are they so similar it isn't going to matter? For that fact thanks everyone for helping me put this in perspective. I'm hopeful going to haul in a nice one in the am.
Slade House reply :
You want to know what the difference is? Casting distance .
Slade House reply :
I just plopped down money for 3 megabass rods (Megabass F4-610XDti Elseil big taper series, the Black Jungle punching swimbait , and a super sexy 2014 Evolution Expada , and a Megabass Zonda Rosso , Megabass LIN , and a Daiwa 103 (the new one) to go with those 3 rods respectively. yeah sure you can probably get by without plopping money down , but when i bought my first megabass rod (a XX4 711 ) i was like , "DAMMIT, im hooked now. cant go back. i mean come on look at the LIN reel, its d**n sexy. 
Josh Smith reply :
Nobody preaches like the converted.
rippin-lips reply :
My friend has a black max 2 along with other more expensive Abu reels. Including a revo stx that I bought him as a gift. I've heard him say a few times that he really likes the black max.
rippin-lips reply :
On 11/8/2015 at 10:12 AM, k3bass said:Yeah it's called actually using them.
If you're ruining a reel in a years time then there's an issue. Likely not with the reel either.
rippin-lips reply :
On 11/8/2015 at 1:37 PM, Slade House said:You want to know what the difference is? Casting distance .
Minimal at best. A $90 Tatula casts just as far as my megabass or steez reels.
k3bass reply :
On 11/8/2015 at 2:20 PM, rippin-lips said:If you're ruining a reel in a years time then there's an issue. Likely not with the reel either.
Whatever. There's a huge difference between fishing 3 or 4 days a month and fishing 20-25 days a month. It's hard to wear out a reel on the internet.
Hogsticker reply :
If you're fishing 1 day a week, 3 times a month, 5 months out of the year, a lesser expensive reel can be fine. None the less, there is a difference between cheap and garbage. If you fish often, year round, a better quality reel will be beneficial. As already stated, it will be made with better materials, components, better precision, tolerances, and quality control which all directly relate to longevity. And while you may not find a huge difference in casting distance, what you will find is a more fluid ease in which it does so. The difference between spools in a 200 dollar reel and a 50 dollar reel will be night and day in that regard, especially when casting baits of the lighter variety.
Bluebasser86 reply :
On 11/8/2015 at 1:37 PM, Slade House said:You want to know what the difference is? Casting distance .
I like nice stuff but I'd put my $40 H20 Mettle up against most any stock reel I've handled and it could hold it's own if not outdistance even some of the high dollar stuff.
Casting distance is way down the list of important features in a reel for me anyways.
gulfcaptain reply :
On 11/8/2015 at 12:50 PM, AEWblackeagle8 said:new2bc4bass thank you very much that makes perfect sense, do you think in the long run I would benefit more from the 6.6 or 7. Or are they so similar it isn't going to matter? For that fact thanks everyone for helping me put this in perspective. I'm hopeful going to haul in a nice one in the am.
The 6.6 picks up 26 IPT, the 7 I believe is about 29 IPT. So the difference is about 3" per turn of the handle. And if you're wondering, the 8.1 is right about 32 IPT on the Concepts. The 6.6 is a great all around reel you can use almost for anything.
gulfcaptain reply :
On 11/8/2015 at 2:58 PM, Bluebasser86 said:I like nice stuff but I'd put my $40 H20 Mettle up against most any stock reel I've handled and it could hold it's own if not outdistance even some of the high dollar stuff.
Casting distance is way down the list of important features in a reel for me anyways.
Have the $79 Menace I believe. That reel fished way better then a lot of higher dollar reels for a long time. Besides, casting distance has a lot to do with the person who is doing the casting. Most would be suprised how far a reel casts without any of the breaks and gimmicks to slow the spool down once they are all turned off and the reels tension knob is set right and learn how to feather the spool.
AEWblackeagle8 reply :
On 11/8/2015 at 4:39 PM, gulfcaptain said:The 6.6 picks up 26 IPT, the 7 I believe is about 29 IPT. So the difference is about 3" per turn of the handle. And if you're wondering, the 8.1 is right about 32 IPT on the Concepts. The 6.6 is a great all around reel you can use almost for anything.
Thank you. That helps out a lot. Now that I'm thinking about my fishing obsession in the same catagory as my bow hunting obsession I'm probably about to upgrade my reels. I have a Cabelas spinning set up 7MF with a Cabelas pro guide 3000 9bb 5.3:1. I don't really like the Rod but the reel feels fine any thoughts on spinning set ups.
Josh Smith reply :
On 11/8/2015 at 4:47 PM, gulfcaptain said:Most would be suprised how far a reel casts without any of the breaks and gimmicks to slow the spool down once they are all turned off and the reels tension knob is set right and learn how to feather the spool.
Is that what it's called? I always thought of it as "anti-lock braking" a spool. 
Josh
IAY reply :
Why are you setting the tension knob and turning off the breaking system. It makes more sense to me to learn how to feather the spool and use the breaking system instead of applying a constant limiting pressure that from tension knob.On 11/8/2015 at 4:47 PM, gulfcaptain said:to slow the spool down once they are all turned off and the reels tension knob is set right and learn how to feather the spool.
new2BC4bass reply :
On 11/8/2015 at 1:37 PM, Slade House said:You want to know what the difference is? Casting distance .
Have to agree with rippin-lips.
On 11/8/2015 at 2:17 PM, rippin-lips said:My friend has a black max 2 along with other more expensive Abu reels. Including a revo stx that I bought him as a gift. I've heard him say a few times that he really likes the black max.
I like reels......period. Should sell off 25-30 of mine.....but which ones? Think I would wind up missing any of them.
On 11/8/2015 at 2:23 PM, rippin-lips said:Minimal at best. A $90 Tatula casts just as far as my megabass or steez reels.
As I said to Slade House, I find this to be true. Maybe I just haven't spent enough on a reel. Simply can't afford $500 on a reel much less twice that amount. My $30 Procaster and $45 Trion are both casting machines....on the right rod throwing lures above 3/8 oz. My T3 1016s cost quite a bit more, but distance isn't several times more. As you say "minimal". I personally feel the rod has more affect on distance than a reel. However, the braking on the 1016s allows me to cast with no brakes applied. Something impossible for me to do with any other reel I own.
On 11/8/2015 at 2:58 PM, Bluebasser86 said:I like nice stuff but I'd put my $40 H20 Mettle up against most any stock reel I've handled and it could hold it's own if not outdistance even some of the high dollar stuff.
Casting distance is way down the list of important features in a reel for me anyways.
Not the first time I have read similar comments about the H2O Mettle. Comments such as this, and the fact it has a metal frame, would make it my choice over a Black Max every time. Most every fisherman will concur that distance isn't the most important aspect of a reel...yet somehow always winds up as part of the discussion. As someone who is usually fishing from shore, I often find distance important. Heck, fishing from a boat with my bro-in-law usually requires me to be a good long distance caster. Some combos seem to be a little more accurate casting than others. More expensive doesn't always equate to more accurate.
OP: Reel choice today has its good points.....and its bad points. The good is that we have so many excellent choices. The bad is that we have so many excellent choices. 
We all have our favorites. Seems like the biggest fan club on this site is the Shimano club. Slightly over half my reels are Daiwas, but no way am I ever going to get rid of my Curado 201E7 or Chronarch 100B. Yet I would rather grab a Daiwa than a Curado 51E if throwing light baits. Like I said, my Primmus quickly became a favorite. From everything I've read, I think the Helios Air may also. I like to keep an open mind.
gulfcaptain reply :
On 11/9/2015 at 12:11 AM, IAY said:Why are you setting the tension knob and turning off the breaking system. It makes more sense to me to learn how to feather the spool and use the breaking system instead of applying a constant limiting pressure that from tension knob.
Why do I fish my reels that way? Simple, I like the spool free. Now I don't crank down on the knob, it's adjusted properly as it would if I were to use a break system to slow the spool. But after years of fishing conventional gear,working in the saltwater charter business over 20yrs and learning how to cast an anchovy on conventional gear years ago (almost 30 years), then years of fishing S. Cal. surface iron with a 9'6" jig stick and a Newell 322. So with doing that for so long and perfecting that touch, I choose to fish my baitcasting gear the same way, with the breaks turned off, spool free to spin and the control of the spool in my hands.
IAY reply :
If you like the spool free, then ditching the tension knob will get it more free than turning off the breaking system. Perhaps I wasn't clear on what I meant.
new2BC4bass reply :
On 11/9/2015 at 12:53 AM, gulfcaptain said:Why do I fish my reels that way? Simple, I like the spool free. Now I don't crank down on the knob, it's adjusted properly as it would if I were to use a break system to slow the spool. But after years of fishing conventional gear,working in the saltwater charter business over 20yrs and learning how to cast an anchovy on conventional gear years ago (almost 30 years), then years of fishing S. Cal. surface iron with a 9'6" jig stick and a Newell 322. So with doing that for so long and perfecting that touch, I choose to fish my baitcasting gear the same way, with the breaks turned off, spool free to spin and the control of the spool in my hands.
Not something we who started using b/c reels after the development of decent braking systems will probably ever be able to do. I've accidentally cast with no brakes on. I almost always am using very light spool tension. The results weren't pretty. 
I'd rather add some braking than spend the time removing backlashes (and changing out line due to those backlashes) while learning to cast with no brakes. I am willing to live with the slightly shorter casting distances as a result of using brakes.
PourMyOwn reply :
Agree about casting distance not being a huge consideration. I've outcast my ability to set the hook properly more times than I'm willing to admit.
Raul reply :
Cheap or expensive ? hmmmm which one to get ? oh boy what a dilemma ....... the problem is not if it´s "cheap" or if it´s "expensive" , the problem is which of the "cheap" is good and which is junk. For example, Daiwa launched several years ago the Procaster PR100H, a $70 dollars reel, was it good ? dang, good does´t describe how great that reel was, for mere 70 dollars you got a quality built, long lasting, good performing and good looking reel; I may love Shimano but what Shimano had to offer in that price range was junk, and Abu ? oh well, let´s not speak about sad offerings.
So when you go on a shopping spree remember price is not the same as value.
gulfcaptain reply :
On 11/9/2015 at 1:07 AM, new2BC4bass said:Not something we who started using b/c reels after the development of decent braking systems will probably ever be able to do. I've accidentally cast with no brakes on. I almost always am using very light spool tension. The results weren't pretty.
I'd rather add some braking than spend the time removing backlashes (and changing out line due to those backlashes) while learning to cast with no brakes. I am willing to live with the slightly shorter casting distances as a result of using brakes.
Yes it is a lost art and not for everyone. But when it's second nature to you it works.
On 11/9/2015 at 1:00 AM, IAY said:If you like the spool free, then ditching the tension knob will get it more free than turning off the breaking system. Perhaps I wasn't clear on what I meant.
And you can't ditch the tension knob. Still has to be set right. A sloppy spool (side to side movement caused by the tension knob being too loose giving the bearing too much play) is different then a properly set free spinning spool.
AEWblackeagle8 reply :
That's the hardest thing about balancing cost vs quality. For example (completely my opinion) easton axis arrows are expensive but not very good, black eagle arrows rampage are almost $4-$5 less per arrow and made so much better.
How can I pick up a reel in the store and be able to feel and notice the quality vs it just being expensive. I messed with a quantium smoke speed freak spinning reel and it felt really nice. It was smooth, well balanced and had a 6.2:1 gear ratio. I just feel like especially with the internal stuff on bait casters and spinners it would be easy to get fooled by a polished turd.
HoosierHawgs reply :
The difference is in the frame. You want Metal, no graphite. Period. As for bearings, I want at least 8.
Josh Smith reply :
On 11/9/2015 at 1:07 AM, new2BC4bass said:Not something we who started using b/c reels after the development of decent braking systems will probably ever be able to do. I've accidentally cast with no brakes on. I almost always am using very light spool tension. The results weren't pretty.
On 11/9/2015 at 2:29 AM, gulfcaptain said:Yes it is a lost art and not for everyone. But when it's second nature to you it works.
And you can't ditch the tension knob. Still has to be set right. A sloppy spool (side to side movement caused by the tension knob being too loose giving the bearing too much play) is different then a properly set free spinning spool.
I see brakes as a convenience -- and there's a lot of difference, too, between magnetic and centrifugal brakes.
Growing up as I did with the 5'6" pistol-grip casting rods, I learned to accelerate them fairly fast on the cast. It was still a smooth cast; don't get me wrong, but it was faster because the arc described by the tip of the rod was shorter and so speed had to be increased faster.
Therefore, a bit of braking at the beginning of the cast was beneficial. This is where centrifugals shine. I eventually learned to back off a lot of the spool tension and apply tension with my thumb. I began by riding the spool, but eventually got to where I'd float my thumb and only apply a bit of tension when I feel the line beginning to "fluff" up.
Now, I back off the tension quite a bit, but use more initial braking (centrifugal) than most folks. I don't want brakes after I fire it out there.
I've found that magnetic brakes are a heck of a lot easier to teach, though, than centrifugal. My wife just started using a baitcaster (1310 Quantum I modified for her) for the first time, and only twice this year. My boy, who is 7, can likewise control a magnetically-braked baitcaster (Quantum Lite, likewise modified, but for him.) Granted, my boy doesn't get a lot of range yet, but we're working on that. It's mainly because I have the magnetic brakes cranked up and am gradually turning them down as he gets better.
Belle has both her great-grandfather's Bronson baitcaster and a 5000c I modified. She sorta' claimed the 5000c and I put it on a pistol-grip handle. The sits and plays fishing for about 1/2 hour at a time! Push button, "cast", reel.
Belle with a 5500; she wanted to play with Daddy's old gear that day:
If she want to actually use the 5000c, she'll have to learn to use centrifugals. I figure I'll start her in about another year, the summer after she turns 3.
Regards,
Josh
K_Mac reply :
Bearing count is an iffy way of judging reel quality at best. Shimano's workhorse reels generally have less bearings than other lesser quality reels in the same price range. Now before I am attacked as a Shimano fan boy, I currently do not have one in my lineup. My point is there is a difference in components, fit, and finish in reels that define value. A quality reel that lasts a lifetime is a good value when compared to a little cheaper one that does not. Shopping price, bearing count, or even manufacturer without doing your research is not a good idea IMO.
desmobob reply :
On 11/9/2015 at 2:39 AM, AEWblackeagle8 said:How can I pick up a reel in the store and be able to feel and notice the quality vs it just being expensive.
I don't know if there's a reliable way to do that. You can't "feel" reliability or durability. Check out posts here on BR for favorite values, and take a look at the excellent reviews at places like TackleTour... There are enough reels around that are proven to be good values/best-bang-for-the-buck that you shouldn't have any trouble picking one you like the feel of or one that balances the way you'd like it on your rod.
Tight lines,
Bob
IAY reply :
On 11/9/2015 at 2:29 AM, gulfcaptain said:Yes it is a lost art and not for everyone. But when it's second nature to you it works.
And you can't ditch the tension knob. Still has to be set right. A sloppy spool (side to side movement caused by the tension knob being too loose giving the bearing too much play) is different then a properly set free spinning spool.
What do you mean by set right? I usually set mine to the point where I don't feel any side to side movement of the spool. I have used reels that I didn't have any pressure applied to the spool with tension knob, and it was perfectly fine.
Josh Smith reply :
On 11/9/2015 at 5:55 AM, IAY said:What do you mean by set right? I usually set mine to the point where I don't feel any side to side movement of the spool. I have used reels that I didn't have any pressure applied to the spool with tension knob, and it was perfectly fine.
"Set right" generally means that you turn off the brakes (in the case of magnetics), hold the rod horizontally, and release the spool. The lure should fall slowly to the ground, about one to two seconds from four feet up.
You then turn the brakes back on to medium (or whatever) and cast.
Setting tension is an individual thing, though, and I don't use that method any longer. That's just the stock answer provided by most manufacturers.
Regards,
Josh
IAY reply :
On 11/9/2015 at 6:00 AM, Josh Smith said:"Set right" generally means that you turn off the brakes (in the case of magnetics), hold the rod horizontally, and release the spool. The lure should fall slowly to the ground, about one to two seconds from four feet up.
You then turn the brakes back on to medium (or whatever) and cast.
Setting tension is an individual thing, though, and I don't use that method any longer. That's just the stock answer provided by most manufacturers.
Regards,
Josh
Okay, what I thought he means. I just have much better success in terms of distance, when I back off the tension knob to the point that you do not have any side to side movement from spool. I think tension knob is such a crude tool, applying exact same pressure on the spool no matter what part of the casting stage you are in. I much prefer to set the centrifugal and magnetic to the point that I feel the most comfortable and feather the spool based on the need during each stage of the cast.
gulfcaptain reply :
On 11/9/2015 at 5:55 AM, IAY said:What do you mean by set right? I usually set mine to the point where I don't feel any side to side movement of the spool. I have used reels that I didn't have any pressure applied to the spool with tension knob, and it was perfectly fine.
Pretty much what Josh said, but as stated depends on what I'm doing as well. My spool will be looser on my flip/punch rods then on my crankbait set up. Want to go old school, some reels you used the tension knob or scew to adjust the bushing the spool rode on instead of bearings. Reels have come a long way since back then. I believe some of the older 5000c's used to have bushings when I fished with one in the late 80's. So habits are hard to break and if it isn't broke I'm not going to fix it and change my approach. Probably would mess myself up. So I keep it simple and go with it.
Josh Smith reply :
On 11/9/2015 at 6:12 AM, IAY said:Okay, what I thought he means. I just have much better success in terms of distance, when I back off the tension knob to the point that you do not have any side to side movement from spool. I think tension knob is such a crude tool, applying exact same pressure on the spool no matter what part of the casting stage you are in. I much prefer to set the centrifugal and magnetic to the point that I feel the most comfortable and feather the spool based on the need during each stage of the cast.
If I used magnets, I probably would do much the same.
As-is though, I open the tension up so that it overruns from 4' up, and I run heavier/more (depending on reel) centrifugal brakes.
My thumb does what your magnetic brakes do, and the tension is only there to keep me from burning my thumb.
Josh
Josh Smith reply :
On 11/9/2015 at 6:16 AM, gulfcaptain said:Pretty much what Josh said, but as stated depends on what I'm doing as well. My spool will be looser on my flip/punch rods then on my crankbait set up. Want to go old school, some reels you used the tension knob or scew to adjust the bushing the spool rode on instead of bearings. Reels have come a long way since back then. I believe some of the older 5000c's used to have bushings when I fished with one in the late 80's. So habits are hard to break and if it isn't broke I'm not going to fix it and change my approach. Probably would mess myself up. So I keep it simple and go with it.
Anything Ambassadeur that had "C" in the name used bearings, and anything without the "C" used bushings.
For example,
The 5000 had bushings.
The 5000c had bearings.
The 5500 had bushings.
The 5500c had bearings.
Lots of times the bushings would actually out-cast the bearing models, and I keep a 5500 non-c around for this reason, and I've been thinking about taking one of the Ultra Cast 5500c3 reels I've modded down to bushings in the spool. Bearings help the reel start up, but bushings can keep it going longer. It's weird, I know. Thinking about it, I might just have a spool I can use to interchange so I can have both for that reel.
Josh
tomustang reply :
On 11/9/2015 at 12:23 AM, new2BC4bass said:Should sell off 25-30 of mine.....but which ones? Think I would wind up missing any of them.
The ones with S in the name, you can sell to me 
Maxximus Redneckus reply :
I think most reels feel good out of box and many cheap ones from the old days still roll on today.that being said todays cheap reels reely are cheap.and parts availibility is monthly .i have all abu round reels some over 45 yrs old that work perfect and parts if i need them are a click away.thats my cliche
AEWblackeagle8 reply :
I like the where this thread has gone. It's more of an investment if you buy a good quality reel vs a cheapo. I am a creature of habit and I like for stuff to be the same, so it sounds like to be I should go ahead a get a nice 6.6:1 or a 7.3:1 bait caster and call it a day. I also just learned that tackle warehouse has a demo program which I am pretty pumped about.
Raul reply :
On 11/9/2015 at 10:47 PM, AEWblackeagle8 said:I like the where this thread has gone. It's more of an investment if you buy a good quality reel vs a cheapo. I am a creature of habit and I like for stuff to be the same, so it sounds like to be I should go ahead a get a nice 6.6:1 or a 7.3:1 bait caster and call it a day. I also just learned that tackle warehouse has a demo program which I am pretty pumped about.
You don´t need a demo, all you gotta do is pick something with the label SHIMANO or DAIWA printed on the side plate and you are ready to go.
J Francho reply :
http://www.bassresource.com/fishing_lures/reel-review.html
Big Bait Fishing reply :
On 11/9/2015 at 3:15 AM, HoosierHawgs said:The difference is in the frame. You want Aluminum. Period. As for bearings, I want at least 8.
i have a Lew's Tournament Lite with the carbon frame and i detect no difference than an aluminum one ...
HoosierHawgs reply :
Sorry, replace that with solid metal... Ie. Aluminum, Carbon, or magnesium. Just not graphite. I'm jumping at the bit to get my hands on a Tourney Lite btw. How do you like yours? I just need to find one for the right price.On 11/10/2015 at 7:20 AM, pgersumky said:i have a Lew's Tournament Lite with the carbon frame and i detect no difference than an aluminum one ...
Big Bait Fishing reply :
On 11/10/2015 at 9:32 PM, HoosierHawgs said:Sorry, replace that with solid metal... Ie. Aluminum, Carbon, or magnesium. Just not graphite. I'm jumping at the bit to get my hands on a Tourney Lite btw. How do you like yours? I just need to find one for the right price.
my Tournament Lite with a 95 mm carbon fiber handle and Revo large EVA knobs weighs 5.7 ounces and casts great .the braking system is awesome . There is no flex in the reel , as a matter of fact I've caught 12 lb. Catfish on it and it worked flawlessly . Definitely gonna get another as I was thinking of getting a BB1 pro but I'm not , just gonna get another Tournament Lite ....
Big Bait Fishing reply :
By the way , carbon is graphite ...
J Francho reply :
And aluminum can be recycled pop cans, billet, or aircraft grade.... The term means nothing.
Maxximus Redneckus reply :
J franco is right cast aluminum is easy to make ,extruded and forged a whole diff game.i dont really prefer graphite but it does come in handy saltwater cant hurt graphite.i have a couple round abus with graphite frames,no problems with them .BTW if you look on youtube you will see even 800$ spinning reels with aluminum will still break.its all about using your drag the proper way for what its intended for.Just cause you have 40 lbs of drag dont mean you need to use it.
k3bass reply :
Graphite flexes aluminum doesn't.
IAY reply :
On 11/11/2015 at 9:21 AM, k3bass said:Graphite flexes aluminum doesn't.
Aluminum do flex... Not under circumstances you would incur in day to day fishing settings, but neither will graphite.
k3bass reply :
On 11/11/2015 at 9:29 AM, IAY said:Aluminum do flex... Not under circumstances you would incur in day to day fishing settings, but neither will graphite.
Graphite framed reels will and do definitely flex in day to day fishing.
Big Bait Fishing reply :
On 11/11/2015 at 10:01 AM, k3bass said:Graphite framed reels will and do definitely flex in day to day fishing.
not all graphite framed reels are the same ...
Delaware Valley Tackle reply :
You have to look at a reel or anything else for that matter in its entirety. Materials, tolerances, features, QC..... It all comes together to make a quality product.
EvanT123 reply :
Wrb had a good post on another thread about using the rod to fight the fish and the reel to take up slack.
I use spinning reels almost exclusively and as most know you shouldn't not reel against the drag or you get line twist. I pull the rod up/back and take up the slack then play the fish out.
My point is if the line, rod, and reel are all working in conjunction with each other. Shouldn't any flex be mitigated?
K_Mac reply :
Evan reeling against the drag, and reeling under stress are not the same thing. If that stress causes flex, and gearing to bind even slightly, then it is a problem. There are many high quality reels made of carbon materials that work perfectly. DVT is absolutely right as always.
EvanT123 reply :
Good point K_MAC on both counts.
bigbill reply :
My Chinese casting reel is $27 and has 11 bearings and features like a more expensive reel. I'm sure it's a clone of a more expensive reel. I'm not saying it's equal and not sure how long it may last. But for a entry level reel I think it's a good buy.
My first casting reel was a Shakespeare $12 reel. It worked fine and still does.
k3bass reply :
On 11/11/2015 at 10:21 AM, pgersumky said:not all graphite framed reels are the same ...
Yeah I understand that. There really are no "true graphite" framed reels.
I'll put it this way all composite framed reels are going to have more flex than aluminum. Some more than others.
Dwight Hottle reply :
Longevity & pleasure in use.
HoosierHawgs reply :
This was my point. You don't want graphite because it will flex bOn 11/11/2015 at 9:21 AM, k3bass said:Graphite flexes aluminum doesn't.
new2BC4bass reply :
On 11/9/2015 at 1:42 AM, Raul said:Cheap or expensive ? hmmmm which one to get ? oh boy what a dilemma ....... the problem is not if it´s "cheap" or if it´s "expensive" , the problem is which of the "cheap" is good and which is junk. For example, Daiwa launched several years ago the Procaster PR100H, a $70 dollars reel, was it good ? dang, good does´t describe how great that reel was, for mere 70 dollars you got a quality built, long lasting, good performing and good looking reel; I may love Shimano but what Shimano had to offer in that price range was junk, and Abu ? oh well, let´s not speak about sad offerings.
So when you go on a shopping spree remember price is not the same as value.
I bought one of those when TW closed them out at $30. Suppose to be for my oldest grandson. He wasn't interested in b/c reels so I got it. Spool release and engagement sound like a Zillion....like a vault. I keep it on a 6' MHF Lightning dedicated to spinnerbaits. Might not be the smallest and lightest reel out there, but it is definitely a good one.
new2BC4bass reply :
On 11/9/2015 at 8:54 AM, tomustang said:The ones with S in the name, you can sell to me
BPS?
tomustang reply :
On 11/12/2015 at 3:55 AM, new2BC4bass said:BPS?
What's bps???
rippin-lips reply :
Oh you mean the revo S. You can have them all.
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