Are split grip rods really worth the extra money? Besides making the rod lighter what are the other advantages?
I am not sure exactly other than i like it when making the longer casts. I totally think it is a preference thing though.
I'm with flyfisher, I think it's totally a preference thing. I have a rod I liked but hated the grip on it. I found myself not using that rod more and more because it was so uncomfortable, so one winter I split the grip on it. What a difference it made!
gripnrip, like Jigfishn 10 says, it's a preference thing. I have both types, but like the all cork handle better. I really like the BPS older style "power hump" Yeah, I know not many like those. But if you can, ask a buddy to try the type you are interested in for a day.
What do you get for your $40-50? Is it truely just another grip? You'll want to look at the Blank, reel seat & guides.
A lot of the rods with one pice grips are built heavier as in 1 pice reel seats and several double footed large size guides that add bulk and weight to the rod
Besides the 1-2 gram weight lose, the split grip on spinning rod setups has on my builds increased the senativity.
On bait casting rods mostly a weight reduction and slight sensativity increase...
But these are on custom rods, in the rack rod world (store bought)
I would say the only thing you are getting for the extra $$$ is the weight reduction....
No rod mfg takes the time to build in the sensativity like custom...
Tight Lines!!!
On 1/30/2013 at 10:12 PM, .RM. said:Besides the 1-2 gram weight lose, the split grip on spinning rod setups has on my builds increased the senativity.On bait casting rods mostly a weight reduction and slight sensativity increase...
But these are on custom rods, in the rack rod world (store bought)
I would say the only thing you are getting for the extra $$$ is the weight reduction....
No rod mfg takes the time to build in the sensativity like custom...
Tight Lines!!!
Can you elaborate on how having an exposed blank behind the reel adds to an increase in sensitivity? I just can't figure out how that would work.
Ill never buy another rod thats not a split grip
A full cork grip duckett cost more than the split grip version
Quality cork is through the roof right now and in short supply. I for one hate the look of an old cork handled rod that's all discolored and missing filling. . Sure you can repair it yourself but I haven't seen too many amateur jobs look the same as new. I much prefer EVA or other synthetic material.
I honestly don't know if its noticeable, but cant help but think the extra material on a full grip would have at least some (perhaps miniscule) effect on deadening a rod versus a split grip.
QuoteBesides the 1-2 gram weight lose,
Not enough weight lose to get me real excited.
I prefer a full rear butt and on the long side. I do not care for split grips on a 7' and less rod, I have an 8' with both an ample fore and rear grip, it's not bad.
On 1/30/2013 at 10:21 PM, Diggy said:A full cork grip duckett cost more than the split grip version
I'm going to take a guess and say if the rest of the rod is the same that the split grip is actualy harder to make and more costly than the full cork rod.
I think it's the other way around, cork is expensive.
On 1/30/2013 at 10:32 PM, craww said:I honestly don't know if its noticeable, but cant help but think the extra material on a full grip would have at least some(perhaps miniscule) effect on deadening a rod versus a split grip.
The butt effects balance and comes into play when casting and leveraged retrieve, like when you have
a fish on. However, since your hand(s) is always on or near the reel, there is no correlation with sensitivity.
I have a few split grips and the main attribute is "bling". Split grips look modern and cool!
On 1/30/2013 at 10:36 PM, Hi Salenity said:I'm going to take a guess and say if the rest of the rod is the same that the split grip is actually harder to make and more costly than the full cork rod.
Yes and let's say you use the extra 5'' of AAAA cork to build a full grip. Thats a nicer grade than most use and I can buy it for $20 or less.
Let's compare that to a nice split grip like a Dobyns. They will have to build the handle and the butt separately (and ream and install) then there's the rubberized cork in the split grip and a couple of anodized winding checks.
Then they add a couple of colored wraps by the winding checks. after that it gets color preserver and epoxy.
In the end I'd bet a lot of the 2 piece handles are probably more expensive to build.
I have both types.And have not noticed any difference in sensitivity at all.I recently picked up a 6-6 med.-accurist- with micro guides for 20.00. Seems to be a good rod,but slightly tip heavy.With the split grip,it will be a easy fix to balance it out better with my reel.
I figured for 20.00, id try it.
Back in the 90s, when cork prices shot up, Daiwa's explanation for split grips was cost savings, especially on their flipping sticks. Maybe .RM. or DVT mike could put this question to rest.
I've never noticed a difference in weight, for me it's all the look.
What rod are you looking at?
I like both but for different reasons.on a longer rod I prefer a full handle like on a swimbait rod.it just seems more comfortable when I really want to rear back and hurl a bait with two hands.on my spinnerbait rod I like a shorter handle split grip it just feels more comfortable.
Dobyns Champ Extreme rods with a full rear grip are $10 more than a split grip.
I was trying to keep brand names out of the question. Reason being I'malready battling the voices inside my noggin. I will tell you this tho. They will be used for cranking. I will purchase 2 rods. So in essence I'll save 80 to 100 bucks if I choose not to buy the split grip.On 1/30/2013 at 11:09 PM, rockchalk06 said:I've never noticed a difference in weight, for me it's all the look.What rod are you looking at?
Well, if it helps any, I prefer a full rear grip for cranking. I like to tuck the butt under my arm, and the cork is more substantial and comfortable to fish that way.
On 1/30/2013 at 11:22 PM, gripnrip said:I was trying to keep brand names out of the question. Reason being I'malready battling the voices inside my noggin. I will tell you this tho. They will be used for cranking. I will purchase 2 rods. So in essence I'll save 80 to 100 bucks if I choose not to buy the split grip.
Gotcha!
On 1/30/2013 at 11:07 PM, J Francho said:Back in the 90s, when cork prices shot up, Daiwa's explanation for split grips was cost savings, especially on their flipping sticks. Maybe .RM. or DVT mike could put this question to rest.
Was it in the 90's JF when they came out with the split grips? I couldn't remember, they took so darn long to gain popularity. Back then I thought they would never make it in the bass fishing world.
Early 90s. Here's a split grip from Berkley from then:
The worst thing about a split grip casting rod is different makers give you differing length rear grip. I love St Croix but they dont put enough grip there for me to comfortably cast. Shimano has also shortened the eva on the new Crucial, just not enough for me to comfortably cast.
On 1/30/2013 at 11:36 PM, J Francho said:Early 90s. Here's a split grip from Berkley from then:
I should have known you had a picture...you got a pic for everything...LOL
Man, I hope we don't have a thread about Proctology...LMAO
Thanks JF.
I have a few "potty" shots.
Cork is way more expensive than EVA. Split vs Full, is all preference to each person. I like the split, I tend to grab the back grip upon long casts to help whip the rod.
On 1/30/2013 at 11:22 PM, gripnrip said:I was trying to keep brand names out of the question. Reason being I'malready battling the voices inside my noggin. I will tell you this tho. They will be used for cranking. I will purchase 2 rods. So in essence I'll save 80 to 100 bucks if I choose not to buy the split grip.
I have been using S G for a couple of years now for my Jig and Worming and just nosed over for a couple of CrankBait rods myself. Only problem is there is still ice on the water so they have not been field tested, however I do like the feel of them.
On 1/30/2013 at 11:55 PM, J Francho said:I have a few "potty" shots.
Is this going to be your new Avatar ?
If not, then can I use it ?
A-Jay
On 1/30/2013 at 11:55 PM, J Francho said:I have a few "potty" shots.
My youngest used to call those "Mingos". LOL Do I see a new Avatar?
By the way I sent Dobyns a message asking what grip was more expensive for them to make if they answer I'll post the reply
On 1/30/2013 at 11:55 PM, J Francho said:I have a few "potty" shots.
You my friend have gone into the Hard Deck and to think of Wild Bill with his SeaGull thing.......
On 1/30/2013 at 11:55 PM, J Francho said:I have a few "potty" shots.
Yeah, and I'm not well...LOL...most peeps have rubber duckys, where the H3LL did you get that!
On 1/30/2013 at 10:05 PM, Hi Salenity said:What do you get for your $40-50? Is it truely just another grip? You'll want to look at the Blank, reel seat & guides.
A lot of the rods with one pice grips are built heavier as in 1 pice reel seats and several double footed large size guides that add bulk and weight to the rod
X2 - There are undoutedly other differences between the rods being compared. As for performance difference is negligible if any - totally a preference in the end.
On 1/30/2013 at 11:38 PM, 119 said:The worst thing about a split grip casting rod is different makers give you differing length rear grip. I love St Croix but they dont put enough grip there for me to comfortably cast. Shimano has also shortened the eva on the new Crucial, just not enough for me to comfortably cast.
You think the front grip on the new Crucial and Compre models is short? Divide that length in half and you have the new Cumara "A". This might be the only Cumara A that I buy...because of the grip. Not only the short front grip, but the overall grip length (front to rear) is too long (for me).
On 1/30/2013 at 10:41 PM, roadwarrior said:The butt effects balance and comes into play when casting and leveraged retrieve, like when you havea fish on. However, since your hand(s) is always on or near the reel, there is no correlation with sensitivity.
I have a few split grips and the main attribute is "bling". Split grips look modern and cool!
Exactly! I really think most people buy them because its the new "Fad".. Somewhat similar to whats happening with micro guides in the past few years, they are becoming more in demand as people hear about them and pro's push them.. These day's it seems harder to come buy a full grip rod than a split grip.. Companies are flooding the market with split grip rods, and therefor people buy them and they become more popular..I am not to hyped up on split grips, to me there is no real benefit. That said I have split grip rods and enjoy fishing them, but they are nothing special. Just my .2 cents
I would pay an extra $40 or $50 for a full grip, which are becoming harder and harder to find. It is just a personal preference.
IMO, split grip rods should cost less than identical full grip rods. They do when I build them.
On 1/30/2013 at 10:17 PM, flyfisher said:Can you elaborate on how having an exposed blank behind the reel adds to an increase in sensitivity? I just can't figure out how that would work.
As I stated on my custom spinning rods because I also use a split seat configuration.
I also stated..
Quotethese are on custom rods, in the rack rod world (store bought)I would say the only thing you are getting for the extra $$$ is the weight reduction....
No rod mfg takes the time to build in the sensativity like custom...
Tight Lines!
On 1/30/2013 at 10:21 PM, jhoffman said:Ill never buy another rod thats not a split grip
+1
Not sure if a sg costs significantly more or less to manufacture when materials are bought in volume at wholesale, then massed produced. I don't think my local rod builder could build an identical rod for the same cost as a major manufacturer. The MSRP is not always based on cost but sometimes on popularity and may work on a higher margin if the public is thirsty for an item.
I doubt the cost of the few extra inches of cork out weighs the cost of the 2 extra winding checks, the epoxy finish to cover the now exposed blank and any thread used. Its just fashion like having a 11bb, 8:1to1 ratio, 24lb drag reel to walk the dog and catch a 3lb fish.
Aluminum winding checks are $1-5. AAAA Grade cork is $2.50/inch.
The main reason I went with Dobyns extremes over Loomis GLX's. I'm not a fan of split grip at all, I find they do not balanced correctly. I believe Dobyns is the only company that gives you the choice of either split/full grip.
John... Didn't Mitchell have a spit-grip rod that pre-dates the Berkley rod?
Why not save the 80.00 and remove the cork yourself?
oe
Your not finding AAAA grade cork on 90+% of the rods on the market.
0119, it's a $10 difference between the split and full grip on a Dobyns. They use quality cork - no graining or divits - and all things being equal, the full grip costs more. Three custom rod builders said it costs more. Even cheap cork is a buck an inch - check the prices on Mudhole: http://www.mudhole.com/Rod-Building/Cork-Rings. Those little winding checks are cheap. So, you can form your opinion based on the facts, or not. Sometimes I think you just like to say the opposite for the sake of debate.
OE, you might be right. I know that there were several split grips before my Accuflex. Many mid-level rods went to EVA. At the time, a disease was the blame for the cork shortage, and considering that a "high end" rod at the time was about $120-150, adding $20 to the bottom line was a big chunk out of profit margins. I know I struggled to find good rods with cork grips, under $100. I think that's about the time I started fishing Fenwicks, and later Team All Stars.
When i got back into serious fishing a few years back my first rod i bought was a st croix triumph with the full cork grip. I really dont mind the full grip, but i fell for the light weight/aesthetics thing and have only bought split grips since.
Shimano cumulus/cumara are still my favorite grips though.....
Wish i could get good cork for $2.50/inch! Last CG-1 cork i bought was over $5/inch.......and that was 3 years ago. Haven't been able to find any that nice since.
It's 2.50 for 1/2" rings
Yeah retail at mudhole or netcraft. But most manufacturers are using much lower grade and getting it at a bulk price no custom maker can dream of.
Seems you know more than the custom builders, lol.
If it's so cheap, why is everyone switching to alternative materials, like Hypalon?
It smells like a duck to me.
What some think is cork on rods, too, really isn't. I've repaired a few "cork" grips that were just veneer. Thin cork over foam. Its hard to tell til it starts delaminating.
On 1/31/2013 at 8:15 PM, J Francho said:Aluminum winding checks are $1-5. AAAA Grade cork is $2.50/inch.
Just checked my source (Bingham Ent.) for cork.....
A- (1-1/4" x 1/2" x 1/4") .95ea.
AA- (1-1/4" x 1/2" x 1/4") $2.25 ea.
AAA- (1-1/4" x 1/2" x 1/4") $3.25 ea. 1" = $13.00
But if you take those price's X4 to equal the inch your talking about it is much more expensive than you think..
They can't even find AAAA grade cork any longer from their suppliers....The cork groves in Portugal are heavly depleted...
Tight Lines All!
Thanks for the "reel" numbers, David!
Not to mention the fact that I think it looks 10x cooler, I think it's a lot more comfortable when casting.
The TAC grips that Fenwick came up with seem to be a nice alternative to cork rings.
oe
On 2/1/2013 at 1:29 AM, S Hovanec said:What some think is cork on rods, too, really isn't. I've repaired a few "cork" grips that were just veneer. Thin cork over foam. Its hard to tell til it starts delaminating.
Up I have a pic of a delamiated cork grip as you describe, from a Falcon rod......
Tight Lines!
Split grips vs. Full grips....comes down to preferance. Just like cork vs. Eva. There are advantages and disadvantages to each depending on the opinion of the rod user. It all comes down to finding what works for you. With the advances in todays rods there are several new grip materials that are new in the last few years.
A couple of the custom builders who have replied are hitting the nail on the head when it comes to cork and it's prices. You can purchase pre made grips as low as a couple dollars for a 10" grip when they are on sale. You also spend as much as $2.50- 3.00 a 1/2" thick cork ring for top grade cork....do the math on that one. And that is before they are glued together, shaped, reamed and epoxied to the blank.
Most off the shelf rods use cheap cork. When lower qualities of cork are used more filler materials are used to cover the voids. Eventually the filler materal comes out, leaving ugly gaps and voids. Lower grade corks also compress more over time with use and is more prone to breaking and falling apart.
There are several top quality rods that use good quality cork. Quality cork is getting harder and harder to find.
I will echo what the other builders have said. It would be pretty easy to have 1/4 of the total cost of the build just in the grip. You can use composite, burnt, burl cork in place of natural cork, which I think is what Fenwick is using on their new line of rods. It is quite a bit cheaper, makes a nice grip and doesn't require any filler. The downside to it though, is it's extremely heavy.
If you've ever seen the way production rods are built, an extra couple of trim bands and 1/2" of epoxy take a matter of seconds to apply. It's way cheaper in labor and materials than good cork. Winding checks bought by the thousand are dirt cheap as well.
Interestingly, the very best cork goes to wineries to cork wine and champagne bottles.
As for split grips, I like them because I generally cast with 2 hands. The fighting butt makes a great handle to grab when casting.
On 1/31/2013 at 9:09 PM, DirtNasty said:The main reason I went with Dobyns extremes over Loomis GLX's. I'm not a fan of split grip at all, I find they do not balanced correctly. I believe Dobyns is the only company that gives you the choice of either split/full grip.
True and false. I have 5 dobyns rod. Two of them are full grip and 3 are split. They ALL balance well IMO. That is one of the major selling points of dobyns rods. I see zero difference in balance when using the appropriate size/weight reel.
And yes, having the option to select full or split is nice option for the consumer. Most folks are probably 50/50 on preference so having options helps. For me I like split for bottom contact baits and full for reaction baits.
Comparing apples to apples and identical components a rod builder does not have the same purchasing power as a major rod manufacturing company. The rod builder is paying retail prices that are available to anyone that wishes to purchase them, whether one is a custom rod builder or an individual making their own. A brand name rod company most likely purchases their components cheaper than the rod builder's supplier. Manufacturing companies do not shop price weekly or monthly from their suppliers, they take bids and write a contact for an extended period of time, 3-6 or 12 months, the contact and volume is what reduces their cost.
The original question, is a s/g worth an extra $40-$50, not which costs more to make and that pretty much based on who is making that rod. A s/g is not worth more to me, I don't care for them.
Do not like split grips, never will. I have large hands and it feels like Im holding a pencil. Personaly, I wish the full cork handles on my rods were about a half inch larger in diameter. I find that the BPS rods with the power hump are the most comfortable for me.I think split grips , for what little merit there may be, are just another marketing ploy.
I feel like a split grip is a downgrade. I've switched all my casting rods to full grips recently. It'd have to be a good rod for me to use a split grip. When casting with two hands, the short little grip is awful. I like a full handle to grab and let it rip.
I definately like the split grip rods for any technique where sensetivity is paramount. The split grip design allows for better vibrations to better travel down the blank with less dampening as compared to full grip. the difference may not be a ton but it is enough for me to prefer them. the only downside is the balance of the rod usually suffers a little more with them.
Mitch
Someone mentioned Mitchell having a split grip rod pretty early on. They had one with EVA split grips called the Mitchell Fulcrum. When I worked at Walmart back in the 90's, they sold it for about $40. I distinctly remember it being 1996 when these first came in. Was grey in color. It was advertised as being well balanced, hence the name. It did feel well balanced, even without a reel, but It always felt a little heavy overall to me. I think the handle was actually weighted to help make it feel better balanced.
On 2/13/2014 at 6:16 AM, mjseverson24 said:I definately like the split grip rods for any technique where sensetivity is paramount. The split grip design allows for better vibrations to better travel down the blank with less dampening as compared to full grip. the difference may not be a ton but it is enough for me to prefer them. the only downside is the balance of the rod usually suffers a little more with them.
Mitch
I don't really agree at all. You don't have your hand anywhere near the exposed part of the handle during the retrieve. Your hand on the blank anywhere above the split part of the handle will dampen a lot of the vibration, anything else will be negligible; and you wouldn't notice it because you're not touching back there. The only real gain is a minute amount of weight savings.
On 1/31/2013 at 9:09 PM, BradGuenette said:The main reason I went with Dobyns extremes over Loomis GLX's. I'm not a fan of split grip at all, I find they do not balanced correctly. I believe Dobyns is the only company that gives you the choice of either split/full grip.
Kistler offers a choice on the KLX and Helium. I believe Duckett offers both for the Magic series as well.
On 2/13/2014 at 7:09 AM, Tywithay said:I don't really agree at all. You don't have your hand anywhere near the exposed part of the handle during the retrieve. Your hand on the blank anywhere above the split part of the handle will dampen a lot of the vibration, anything else will be negligible; and you wouldn't notice it because you're not touching back there. The only real gain is a minute amount of weight savings.
its the cork or whatever else the full handle is made out of that comes in contact with the blank that dampens the vibrations, you do not have to agree with it for it to be true. A rod that has minimum objects touching it will transmit vibrations most effectively. I believe one of the rod makers already said the sensitivity is increased, however most manufacturers will not take the time to maximize these gain potentials. I am not a rod maker however I do understand the physics involved.
Mitch
On 2/13/2014 at 7:25 AM, mjseverson24 said:its the cork or whatever else the full handle is made out of that comes in contact with the blank that dampens the vibrations, you do not have to agree with it for it to be true. A rod that has minimum objects touching it will transmit vibrations most effectively. I believe one of the rod makers already said the sensitivity is increased, however most manufacturers will not take the time to maximize these gain potentials. I am not a rod maker however I do understand the physics involved.
Mitch
If the cork was halfway up the rod, it might dampen the vibrations. On a full grip, the cork is behind your hand; there's nothing left for it to dampen. Grab a tuning fork by the very tip and strike it, you'll feel everything. Now keep holding that end, but put your other hand a couple inches up the handle and strike it, which hand gets the vibrations? The vibrations transmit from the tip, through the rod, to your hand on the reel seat, then they stop. They don't go back into the handle, then bounce back up the rod. Any small amount that get past your hand would be lost because you aren't even holding the rod at that portion. If a builder goes with a very minimalistic design, say for example the Shimano Cumara; the weight savings could lead to a more sensitive feeling blank due to the lack of weight. You'd concentrate less on the weight and feel more of what's going on. It has nothing to do with more vibrations transmitting anywhere though, your hand deadens everything behind it. It's not a matter of agreeing or disagreeing, it's a fact.
if you hold that tuning fork by anything other than then end it will change the characteristic vibrations of the fork. a rod doesn't quite work this way but it is some-what similar. there are still vibrations in the rod after your hand, otherwise how could guides be on a rod before your hand, and how could the cork or eva be in front of you hand on the fore-grip using your argument these would leave nothing for your hand to feel. your hand will dampen the vibrations but a wave will reach the and of the rod then reflect back. I do agree though that further weight reduction is also a big player in increasing or maximizing the sensitivity of a blank...
Mitch
On 2/13/2014 at 8:12 AM, mjseverson24 said:if you hold that tuning fork by anything other than then end it will change the characteristic vibrations of the fork. a rod doesn't quite work this way but it is some-what similar. there are still vibrations in the rod after your hand, otherwise how could guides be on a rod before your hand, and how could the cork or eva be in front of you hand on the fore-grip using your argument these would leave nothing for your hand to feel. your hand will dampen the vibrations but a wave will reach the and of the rod then reflect back. I do agree though that further weight reduction is also a big player in increasing or maximizing the sensitivity of a blank...
Mitch
Guides are made of metal, which transmit vibration. You do lose a small amount from the epoxy and threading, but when the epoxy hardens, it transmits vibrations as well. In reality, any weight you add to the rod between your hand and the tip is going to dampen the vibrations slightly, but they're a necessary evil, unless you want to fish a rod with no guides except for the tip. Cork and EVA don't completely kill vibrations like your hand will. If the rod has a foregrip, the foregrip itself won't stop the vibrations completely, unless you're holding it by the foregrip. It certainly won't help transmit anymore vibrations to your hand behind the foregrip though.
There's some good stuff on this on rodbuilding.org by guys that have built rods for years (http://rodbuilding.org/read.php?2,384767,384795). For the most part, they've found zero added benefit in performance, other than possible weight savings. Some claim it aids in two handed casting, but I have found that to be a complete hunk of poo in my experience. Seems that is more of a preference thing. I, personally, hate trying to hold a tiny butt end with my off hand, almost feel like I should have my pinky up trying to use a dainty little grip to hold it. Give me a full grip.
I was apprehensive about split grips at first, but now I love them and look for them on all of my rods. I find being able to have a finger or two on the blank pressed against the top of the butt gives me a much better grip to maximize my flinging power. Weight and sensitivity aren't really a factor for me.
Last spring, I decided I needed a new spinnerbait rod. I was on my way to Ky. Lake for two weeks. I went to Cabela's and shopped the rod racks. I decided on a split-grip Mojo 7 ft. "spinnerbait" rod. Did not put a reel on it, Just liked the action. Forward: Got to Ky. lake and put on my spinnerbait reel, a Shimano bantam 101 with 10 lb. cxx. One day of fishing and I needed a new rod. There is no way I can fish with a split grip. It doesn't fit my hand/very uncomfortable feel. All of my rods, are full grip cork (don't care about the cork quality) St Croix .I guess I'm just old but I know what I like and split grips are not on my list.
The only split grip I have is an 8' Tsunami airwave. Not only is the rear butt long enough but it has an ample foregrip as well, it's not too bad. Many of the 6'6 and & 7' rods split grips I've handle are not to my liking, the feel awkward. Fishing last week with one of these with a Van Staal on it's back was terrible experience, I never disliked a rod more. Not a spilt grip rod but a rod with no rear grip or fore grip..........this rod took uncomfort to a new level.
On 2/13/2014 at 1:06 PM, plumworm said:Last spring, I decided I needed a new spinnerbait rod. I was on my way to Ky. Lake for two weeks. I went to Cabela's and shopped the rod racks. I decided on a split-grip Mojo 7 ft. "spinnerbait" rod. Did not put a reel on it, Just liked the action. Forward: Got to Ky. lake and put on my spinnerbait reel, a Shimano bantam 101 with 10 lb. cxx. One day of fishing and I needed a new rod. There is no way I can fish with a split grip. It doesn't fit my hand/very uncomfortable feel. All of my rods, are full grip cork (don't care about the cork quality) St Croix .I guess I'm just old but I know what I like and split grips are not on my list.
I think I had the same rod. St. Croix chooses to make such a small hand grip behind the reel seat on their split grips. And they shape them down so abruptly that there is no place for a mans hand to grip. Not an issue for pitchers or those guys that throw from the palming position maybe. The new shimano are just as bad, virtually nothing behind the reel seat to hold on to.
On 2/13/2014 at 3:20 PM, SirSnookalot said:The only split grip I have is an 8' Tsunami airwave. Not only is the rear butt long enough but it has an ample foregrip as well, it's not too bad. Many of the 6'6 and & 7' rods split grips I've handle are not to my liking, the feel awkward. Fishing last week with one of these with a Van Staal on it's back was terrible experience, I never disliked a rod more. Not a spilt grip rod but a rod with no rear grip or fore grip..........this rod took uncomfort to a new level.
You usually see these cord/shrink grips on really large diameter boat rods where a thicker grip material would be too large to grasp well.
I'll let the scientific, fishing community debate vibrations, sensitivity and feel. All I know is, full length cork grips work for me and I catch fish.
I use to have a couple full cork rods....and then i went and bought a mojo bass a while back and haven't turned back to full cork... i have all split grip now! It is preference but i like it for comfort and confidence ... just feels better and i feel like i can cast much better with it that way.