I have virtually zero experince with braided line. I have 1 baitcaster and the rest of my rigs are spinning units. I plan on using my 7' MH Vendetta/Lew's Speed Spinning reel for frogging and other bass fishing. I have really only used Berkley XT 10/12 test in the past.
I am wondering if braid will work for my set up; if so what lb test would you suggest and what brand? I would like to use this rig with senkos/texas rigging as well. What are the drawbacks with using braid?
Thanks
I've got 30# braid on my MH rod for worms and jigs. I don't think SirSnookalot uses anything heavier than 20# braid, and he fishes saltwater as well. I spooled 30# based on recommendations I received from people on this site.
I think you will like braid on your spinning reel a lot. Braid can still get line twist depending on the lures you are using, but it is much less likely to occur than with mono or fluoro as long as you stay away from those lures that cause bad line twist.
EDIT: I still use mono on the majority of my reels as I prefer it to braid in most instances. I can remove line twist when necessary with mono. Line twist in braid is something else. I wound up reversing my line after a day of throwing a 3/4 oz. saltwater spoon on my STX. Line twist was bad.
30#, you can go heavier, but I don't see a need. Personally, with spinning gear I lean towards the lightest I can use without worrying about it.
On my own MH spinning outfit for t-rigs I use 20#, but I don't frog with it. Brand is up to you, Power Pro or Suffix are what I use.
I do have 30# braid on 3 spinning outfits, 2 used strictly offshore and 1 inshore. I normally do use 15 and 20# but the capacity of the reel (280 yds of 30) seemed like a better fit. In freshwater I'm using 10# and 12# braid, forget the name of the line we got free and I haven't taken it off yet, when I do I'll go with 15#.
I don't own a spinning reel without line twist on the braid, flukes rotate and spoons can spin too, my leaders all have bb swivels and many of spoons I've added a swivel as well. Don't ever troll with braid and a spoon, I wasted 300 yds in about 5 minutes once using a drone spoon, lol. I'm not using spoons quite as much as I've gone to using a jig fish aka sling jig, butterfly type, jigging spoon and dozen other names for the same basic thing. A slender but heavy for it's length with 1 treble on the rear, they wobble back and forth and really help in reduction of line twist, have yet to use a lure that comes close to them in casting distance, and fish love them, albeit I've never used one in freshwater.
I use 10lb PowerPro on all my spinning gear. I add a FC leader. I find this combo works best for all my spinning needs.
On 11/1/2013 at 10:42 PM, Felix77 said:I use 10lb PowerPro on all my spinning gear. I add a FC leader. I find this combo works best for all my spinning needs.
How exactly does the flourocarbon leader work and why is it necessary? In reading other threads on briad I see alot of people use the FC leaders. Again, I am a novice to all of this, recently switched from pan fishing to bass fishing this summer.
On a side note, my Lew's came with a braid spool; would I need to use a mono backing? Its rated for 20/30/40 lb test.
I use 30# power pro on my spinning Pfleuger Patriarch and on my Abu Garcia Orra works just fine. My only problem with the Abu is the spool is shallow so if I happen to get snagged and need to cut I soon have to replace the braid because it's too short.
One time I didn't realize that it was that low I was using a Bass Pro boss shad and I casted it out hard and the line flew off the spool lol
People use f/c leader because it is believed to be less visible to the fish, Mono backing is used as a filler. That way you use less of the more expensive braid. IMO the # test of the mono filler matters little as I have never come close to reaching the mono when I cast.
On 11/1/2013 at 10:51 PM, jiggz125 said:On a side note, my Lew's came with a braid spool; would I need to use a mono backing? Its rated for 20/30/40 lb test.
No.
On 11/1/2013 at 10:51 PM, jiggz125 said:On a side note, my Lew's came with a braid spool; would I need to use a mono backing? Its rated for 20/30/40 lb test.
No.
10-30# braid. I like power pro and suffix 832. Imo there aren't any major drawbacks. You have the option of tying on a leader, which I like, but not everyone does.
I use 20# PowerPro Super 8 Slick (yellow) on my Shimano Sedona 2500 spinning reel. I back it with some cheap mono I just had sitting around the house. Only reason I did this was so I could stretch one box of PP to last multiple spoolings.
I use the 20# so I could match it with a 12# Invizx fluoro leader. It's a tiny bit better match in line diameter.
Definitely use a quality swivel for flukes and inline spinners. I use Spro brand in a medium size (80# I think). I used a tiny, low quality one awhile back and it didn't really do anything to miminize twist.
This setup has served me very well. Good luck!
On 11/1/2013 at 9:15 PM, jiggz125 said:I have virtually zero experince with braided line. I have 1 baitcaster and the rest of my rigs are spinning units. I plan on using my 7' MH Vendetta/Lew's Speed Spinning reel for frogging and other bass fishing. I have really only used Berkley XT 10/12 test in the past.
I am wondering if braid will work for my set up; if so what lb test would you suggest and what brand? I would like to use this rig with senkos/texas rigging as well. What are the drawbacks with using braid?
Thanks
Visibility, Wind Knots, Wind Blowing the Line Around, Drag under water affecting bouyancy and action of certain baits, Belly causing slack line and lack of slack line sensitivity. Senko and Texas rig presentations are prone to slack line, and often are bit during these times. I prefer a quality Fluorocarbon for the purpose.
On 11/2/2013 at 1:25 AM, skeletor6 said:Visibility, Wind Knots, Wind Blowing the Line Around, Drag under water affecting bouyancy and action of certain baits, Belly causing slack line and lack of slack line sensitivity. Senko and Texas rig presentations are prone to slack line, and often are bit during these times. I prefer a quality Fluorocarbon for the purpose.
I am assuming Flouro is stronger than Mono yet weaker than braid? Upsides of flouro over mono?
On 11/2/2013 at 1:29 AM, jiggz125 said:I am assuming Flouro is stronger than Mono yet weaker than braid? Upsides of flouro over mono?
I used mono 95% of the time, my first experiences with braid were bad. I finally got some good like and I respect it. It is not anything more special than mono, there are pros and cons in defferent areas to each line. I still tend to favor mono, because it is cheap and forgiving, spooling up a couple times a year is no biggy to me. Flouro on spinning tends to have a lot of memory and coils.....If it were me, I might look into a hybrid co polymer type line like yozuri. It is sorta the best of mono and flouro.....low vis, low stretch,improved strength but managable on a spinning reel
I use 10-15 lb. braid PP or Sufix with FC leader on my spinning rods.
Each line type has applications where it shines over the others. Fluoro isn't necessarily stronger than mono. Fluoro is intended to be less visible but there is not 100% agreement on the importance of that. I like it as a leader for abrasion resistance. Zebra mussel beds can shred braid quickly. As for visibility to fish I don't pay it much mind and tie direct unless the water is gin clear. Even then line diameter gets downsized before changing material. I might use a mono leader for a top water bait as it floats as does braid but it's stiffer and not as likely to foul the hooks. I like 20# Hi-Vis braid so I can see it with a leader in certain circumstances. You don't need backing on a braid ready spool for it to work, but backing and two casts worth of main line is more economical.
Drawbacks to braid? I guess I can think of a few...you cut your hands testing your knot because it doesn't break, it lasts for years and years so you don't have that fun of replacing your line every 3 months, when you hook a bass in grass it cuts the grass instead of tangling in it so you may leave floating vegetation, it has zero memory so you will not have those cute coils draping down from your rod tip, because of this no memory thing it floats off the spool and through the guides increasing casting distance so you may hit trees every now and then, you will no longer have that heart pumping fear of a breakoff when fighting a bass...geeze, there has to be more, I'm just tired from a long day.
OK, that's enough. Seriously though, there are only 2 drawback (real ones now) that I can think of and one is its visibility and the other is it has no abrasion resistance to rock or shell. And a fluoro leader takes care of both of those. You may have guessed I'm a huge fan of braid, have tried many and my favorite is Power Pro Super Slick. Stuff is amazing.
And I use a blood knot to connect.
found here:
http://www.animatedknots.com/knotlist.php?Categ=home&LogoImage=LogoGrog.jpg&Website=www.animatedknots.com
On 11/2/2013 at 1:29 AM, jiggz125 said:I am assuming Flouro is stronger than Mono yet weaker than braid? Upsides of flouro over mono?
It depends on the FC being used. A line like Seaguar Tatsu is smaller and more consistent in line diameters in lines with similar breaking strength rating. Also, its stated value is a few pounds under its actual breaking.
I don't feel there is a real advantage over mono if using a cheap FC. However, quality FC is high in density, more abrasion resistance. Does not absorb water. Very belly resistant for more natural presentations. Is undoubtedly more sensitive and slack line sensitivity is the best of all line types. Furthermore, its refractive index is close to water making its visibility lower. Its high density also leads to less drag in the water.
Mono is more cost effective and great for topwater presentations and also good for jerkbaits. That or a lower density resin FC that some pros are switching to. Basically, for the jerkbait to suspend.
Braid is, IMHO, by far the best line I've ever used on spinning gear. It simply manages better through and through.
I always tie on a leader, here's why:
1) Saves cutting braid mainline for retying lures (I cut and retie until I need a new leader, so that's quite a few times before cutting a portion of the braid).
2) See number 1
3) It can help with certain lure presentations if you need some shock/stretchiness/abrasion resistance from mono/copoly/fluoro
4) See 1-3
I don't mean to be snarky, I just think using braid has immensely helped my spinning setups. Problems, as stated before, there can be wind knots, and other inexplicable knots that defy logic, physics, and all science. But for me, the pros far outweigh the cons.
Now as to how heavy you need to go: ALL my spinning gear has 10 pound Power Pro which is 2 pound diameter equiv of mono. 10 pound braid is VERY strong. I caught my PB of 7.5 lbs in thick salad on 10 lb braid + a 10 lb copoly leader (though baitcast). The 6.6 lber in my avatar was on a spinning setup with 10lb PP + 10lb leader in sunken stumps and bushes.
Braid + leader can be super-versatile and cost saving. Just my humble .02.
I like braid and for me the positives outweigh the negatives. I fish for some of the most line shy fish around, I do not catch anymore with a f/c leader (I always use a leader) than I do with a mono leader. Been stated many times people catching bass with braid using no leader. I don't need to see my line and do a lot of fishing in the dark where I couldn't see it anyway. Braid is the equalizer when it comes to sensitivity, even when I have a bow in my line, keeping your rod lower to the water is going to reduce the bow.
you can use any pound line on your spinning reel, i have 65 pound braid and 80 pound braid on my frog and flippin spinning rod.
I use 20# Power Pro on my spinning reel tied with an Alberto knot to a fluoro leader for abrasion resistance. Wind knots do happen but they can be undone and I find that overall line management on spinning gear is easiest with braid. I fish flukes and and the like with this setup and while it's true that using all fluoro will give you better sensitivity, especially in a slack line, I think the delivery of the hookset for such baits is best done by braid.
I don't do any frogging but if I did, especially around lily pads and other thick stuff, I would undoubtedly use braid if only for its vegetation-mowing properties.
I would never think of using anything but braid on any rod. After 35 years of fishing every mono made and knowing all it's shortcomings made braid a no brainer for me. Then the last decade or so after 20 years of seeing all the benefits of braid and the flexibility using mono or fluorocarbon leaders, I have been able to tune any outfit I own to perfection for any species or tactic I use to catch them. You will never loose any braid unless you trim it and will last multiple years once you learn how to rig it. I usually respool reels no more often than every two to four years using braid the way I rig it. Blugill to Muskie 5 to 30 lbs test, and on baitcasters 20 to 65 lbs test does it all for me!!
Only drawback would be tying more because of leader line, not really a problem compared to what you gain.
Remember you're on a braid heavy forum. If you're short on cash and on an insensitive rod I might go braid. Because its unlikely you'll feel slack line sensations anyways. Nonetheless weightless or finesse techniques for me involve a fair amount of slack line. Also, this seems to be when most strikes occur.
Braid is fantastic on a tight line and its manageability as far as memory goes is great. Once its on top of the water bellying blowing around you're line will be slack as the light bait sinks and you will not feel the sensations a fluorocarbon will deliver and unless your great at watching your line you will miss hooksets. Whether people want to claim they can feel slack line hits on braid its mostly bs. The fish would have to hit the line in a fashion that makes the line tight. It does not transmit slack line sensitivity.
As far as hooksets go, I've never had a problem setting a hook with mono or fluorocarbon. Even in 30+feet of water and long casts. Manageability of quality fluorocarbon or even seaguar invizx is definitely enough for spinning gear. I care more what the line is doing on/in the water and the transmission I receive. Then again, im not using cheap rods.
Watch arguably the best finesse fisherman in the game, Aaron Martens. See what he uses.
On 11/3/2013 at 12:47 AM, tomustang said:Only drawback would be tying more because of leader line, not really a problem compared to what you gain.
I use swivel with my leader and keep my leaders about 20" or so, carry a small spool of leader line in my pocket, add leader when needed with a quick clinch knot and a loopknot, works well for me. I do the same exact thing in saltwater with the exception of mackerel I tie line to leader then. I don't find it to be too time consuming, if others do then I'm sure they have worked out their own system.
I go thru tons of braid, every reel gets respooled often. Between rocks, coral, barnacles, cement pylons, excessive line twist from rotating lures. I don't mind spending the money or taking the time for a fresh respool.
On 11/2/2013 at 2:55 PM, SirSnookalot said:I like braid and for me the positives outweigh the negatives. I fish for some of the most line shy fish around, I do not catch anymore with a f/c leader (I always use a leader) than I do with a mono leader. Been stated many times people catching bass with braid using no leader. I don't need to see my line and do a lot of fishing in the dark where I couldn't see it anyway. Braid is the equalizer when it comes to sensitivity, even when I have a bow in my line, keeping your rod lower to the water is going to reduce the bow.
I disagree with that statement Sir Snook. Go fish shoulder to shoulder on a charter boat with more than 10 people of equal fishing ability,
and look at the fish counts between Flouro and mono, line shy or not. As far as fishing for Bass i, dont think it makes as much a difference.
On 11/2/2013 at 2:55 PM, SirSnookalot said:I like braid and for me the positives outweigh the negatives. I fish for some of the most line shy fish around, I do not catch anymore with a f/c leader (I always use a leader) than I do with a mono leader. Been stated many times people catching bass with braid using no leader. I don't need to see my line and do a lot of fishing in the dark where I couldn't see it anyway. Braid is the equalizer when it comes to sensitivity, even when I have a bow in my line, keeping your rod lower to the water is going to reduce the bow.
your correct again sir, my technique is 100% braid in freshwater, here in Florida theirs vegetation everywhere, i never seen a lake or freshwater body of water that does not have vegetation, if i cast in the middle of the lake away from vegetation, and the water if clear, then i use a leader, but even then if you drop your bait to the bottom or when is a reaction bite, then you don't really need leader.
Some may be right that on insensitive rods, you may gain something besides voodo with Fluorocarbon,,,, but after 30 years fishing with nothing but mono, running Charters on Erie for very very light biting Walleye, and deep jigging for Yellow Perch, both far tougher to detect bites from than Bass,,,, after using Braid and Fluorocarbon,,,,,,,I find the braid to be capable of the slightest pickup, some maybe can't but for me I see no need for any more sensitivity than I already have,,,,I will admit I do use the finest rods in the world, maybe when you use better rods they make up for any lack of sensitivity but some may experience a lack of sensitivity with lesser equipment as some have said,,,, After nearly 60 years fishing all species and waters,,,,,,this old man prefers Braid, on every rod, and with 6 to 13 foot leaders, in only the clearest waters I will turn to fluorocarbon,,,,,the rest of the time I will use Trilene Big Game for leader duties!!
On 11/3/2013 at 11:04 AM, LMB ANGLER said:your correct again sir, my technique is 100% braid in freshwater, here in Florida theirs vegetation everywhere, i never seen a lake or freshwater body of water that does not have vegetation, if i cast in the middle of the lake away from vegetation, and the water if clear, then i use a leader, but even then if you drop your bait to the bottom or when is a reaction bite, then you don't really need leader.
Bass is a different issue, I do not feel they are overly line shy, but I always use a leader, that just goes back to my basic training over 60 years ago fishing Lake St Clair.
I have never experienced fish more line shy than fish in the mackerel family, you may catch spanish on wire as they strike during a bait frenzy but kingfish offshore is a different ballgame. Not only do I go out on small private boats but I go on walk on party boats and reserved charters with 10 person max. There is always a portion of inexperienced fishermen that use the boat's gear, standard senators on 40 or 50lb class rod using generic 40# mono and leaders. The more experienced fishermen bring their own gear, generally a bit lighter (but not always) more refined and most use mono lines as braid is not allowed on many of these boats due to the fact that braid tangling with mono is a nightmare, mates cut lines they don't untangle. Have no idea of who is using f/c or mono leaders, but the catch rate for these boats are pertty consistant among the all the fishemen. When I'm fishing a small private boat I have used both mono and f/c leaders many times in the same outing, strike rate doesn't seem to vary a bit.
For people that do believe f/c is a big advantage, go ahead and use it.
On 11/3/2013 at 2:57 PM, SirSnookalot said:Bass is a different issue, I do not feel they are overly line shy, but I always use a leader, that just goes back to my basic training over 60 years ago fishing Lake St Clair.
I have never experienced fish more line shy than fish in the mackerel family, you may catch spanish on wire as they strike during a bait frenzy but kingfish offshore is a different ballgame. Not only do I go out on small private boats but I go on walk on party boats and reserved charters with 10 person max. There is always a portion of inexperienced fishermen that use the boat's gear, standard senators on 40 or 50lb class rod using generic 40# mono and leaders. The more experienced fishermen bring their own gear, generally a bit lighter (but not always) more refined and most use mono lines as braid is not allowed on many of these boats due to the fact that braid tangling with mono is a nightmare, mates cut lines they don't untangle. Have no idea of who is using f/c or mono leaders, but the catch rate for these boats are pertty consistant among the all the fishemen. When I'm fishing a small private boat I have used both mono and f/c leaders many times in the same outing, strike rate doesn't seem to vary a bit.
For people that do believe f/c is a big advantage, go ahead and use it.
talking about mackerel, their run is about to start, i already bought a gotcha lure and a silver spoon for them, any ways back to the subject. In Florida we don't need a leader for bass because almost every lake has vegetation here, but in other state with no vegetation and clear water, they do need it. i believe that the bigger bass do see the line in extremely clear lakes. saltwater is a must because the water is clear, the snooks are very visual.
On 11/3/2013 at 3:24 PM, LMB ANGLER said:talking about mackerel, their run is about to start, i already bought a gotcha lure and a silver spoon for them,
You missed it.............lol. Spanish, bluefish and ladyfish were going crazy last 2 weeks, no exaggeration but I was cut off and lost about 20 lures as of late, gotchas do rule, went to 1 Walmart and they only had 1 left. Have some cooler weather and rough water coming in staring today so they may be back.
The ICW was nuts with mullet yesterday morning about 6 am, snook and tarpon busting all over the place, 30 minutes later and not one strike, been thru that one dozens of times, they are just too busy inhaling live bait and don't want artificial. Best way to catch them is a live mullet and clip a fin so they swim different. I'll be back there again this morning, Atlantic Ave and the ICW in Delray.
I'd rather catch bass than spanish mackerel, no fight to them. Blues and especially ladyfish are awesome to catch.
Thanks for all the advice/suggestions.
Side question: if my 7' MH Abu Vendetta states: 8-14LB line, does that matter when putting on and using a 20/30lb PowerPro braided line? What exactly does that mean about the rod? My spinning reel has an extra spool for braided line.
Also, do you need special guides when using braid, I am reading alot about the line getting frayed and losing lures that way?
When it comes to braid I pretty much throw the line rating out the window, within reason. Don't throw 80lb test powerpro on a ultra light lol. Most seem to prefer 30lb super line and that will work from ML-XH rods.
Guides have gotten sooooo much better than what they were. I haven't experienced any fraying for some time. I did change out a tip on a daiwa rod I got as a gift, it was all aluminium and making too much noise for my tastes.