Oldschool Horizontal Jigging 2024
WRB reply :
I wrote a horizontal jigging artical for In-Fisherman magazine over 17 years ago, Jan 1995. This presentation was considered old back then!
horizontal jigging is another term for casting a jig and retrieving back along the bottom structure and works best in deep structured lakes during seasonal periods where bass and prey are migrating; pre spawn and fall transition.
The presentation relies on a jig designed to achieve a hook set when the line angle is less than a 45 degree angle down in the water, when the jig is more verticle or more than a 45 degree angle like straight down or 90 degrees you are fishing vertical and close to the bass; pitching and flipping presentations.
My average cast is about 90 feet or 30 yards out to 120 feet or 40 yards, rarely longer.
I designed a modified football head that more resembles a viper snake head shape and use 5/0 Gamakatsu #114 forged hook; very strong and extremely shape, the hook point about ***/4" behind the jig head, this is a critical factor to achieve hook set sets. I don't use a traditional weed guard, I use a CPS or Hitchhiker spring and attached a ***/4 to 2" split tail section of finesse worm and insert the jig hook point into the crouch of the razor cut split in the worm tail to cover the hook point to help prevent snagging when fishing light cover or brush. A standard football head will work, but tend to hang up more often in broken rock. There is a new jig coming out called a Nu Jig that has a unique double weed guard and head shape that works very well without adding the finesse worm to cover the hook point and slides through rocky structure very well.
The key to my success is the tackle and how I hold the rod, the line and position the rod during the retrieve.
The rods should be at least 6'6" fast action 4 to 5 power light weight sensitive jig/worm rod. My rods are custom 4 and 5 power, 6'10" Hydra rods made by ALX, very similar to Loomis NRX rods, any good rod will do.
Any good quality casting reel like Ardent 1100, the older Shimano Curado and Lewis 's pro series reels are all good, in 6.3 to 1 ratio. Line is another personal choice; I like Sunline Shooter 14 lb, it's pricey and also use P-Line FluroClear 12 lb, about the same diameter and good performance at 1/4 the price.
My jig is a custom 7/16 oz, a good quality 1/2 oz football head like Cody's Phenix jig or the Nu jig would be good. I tie my own custom buck tail hair jigs in 3 color combinations; black back, purple middle and rust brown belly and call this anytime anywhere. The second is rust brown back, green center and brown belly and call,this spring craw. Trilers are pork died 1 of the colors in the jig: usually rust brown or purple. At night or low light the trailer is usually black or purple.
I make a long cast and let the jig fall on a controlled slack line while watching the V the line makes in the water. When the jig hits bottom you will see the line jump, see and feel the jig hit bottom. I hold the rod in front of the reel, with the line over my index finger, the rod pointed at the jig, rod tip near to parallel with the water surface. The retrieve is very simple, I just turn the reel handle 1 to 3 turns depending on the bottom slope contour; I want the jig to jump forward about 6" to 12", and let it come to a stop then without raising the rod tip, I watch and feel the line for any indication of a strike; the line moving to one side, a thump, a bump, a tick or nothing no feed back like the jig was cut off. My reaction to any of the above is quickly to turn the reel handle serveral turns to tighten up the line and if I believe a bass has the jig, then I keep reeling until the line is tight and sweep the rod back hard.
If it's not strike, just lower the rod back down and continue the retrieve. if you encounter a obstickle like rocks or wood limb, then gently raise the rod tip to lift the jig over the obstickle and continue the stop and go retrieve: turn the reel handle, let the jig fall and stop and repeat the retrieve . This sounds simple and it is, but you must concentrate on every cast, the bass that eat a jig cast a long distance don't know you are there and they often big bass.
You can substitute soft plastic for,the pork trailers and appeal to a wider range of bass sizes, pork seems to appeal to bigger bass.
The depth I fish depends on the thermocline, but rarely deeper than 35', usually between 3' to 25' .
Good luck.
Tom
Loop_Dad reply :
Nice article, Tom!
Is there any way you can show us the pic of the jigs you use?
In winter months, most of what I do is jigs in deep. No boats allowed in the most of the lakes in my county in winter, so I have to cast far from shore. I used to use football a lot as I can feel the bottom better. But in lakes with lots of dead tree limbs on the bottom, good ol' Archy seems to work better for me with less snags. The most of Archy I see comes with heavy wire hook. I'm not sure if I am missing some fish because of that.
WRB reply :
On 9/16/2012 at 2:33 AM, Loop_Dad said:Nice article, Tom!
Is there any way you can show us the pic of the jigs you use?
In winter months, most of what I do is jigs in deep. No boats allowed in the most of the lakes in my county, so I have to cast far from shore. I used to use football a lot as I can feel the bottom better. But in lakes with lots of dead tree limbs on the bottom, good ol' Archy seems to work better for me with less snags. The most of Archy I see comes with heavy wire hook. I'm not sure if I am missing some fish because of that.
Fishing a jig from shore uphill is difficult. Making cast more parallel so you are working at an angle uphill works A lot better for me. The problem with an Arkie jig is the jig is designed to be more compact, the hook point about 1" from the jig head to have a space for the weed guard behind the hook eye, usually a 60'degree bend hook. You can trim the brush type weed guard and find some Arkie heads (Wadda jig) that uses a fine strand weed guard the help to improve hook setting, the point Is still nearly over the jig head. When the bass bites down on the jig, the hook often rolls 90 degrees missing any mouth tissue and in the inside ridge of the lips, then you miss the hook set. The further bck the hook point is into the bases mouth and the more upright the hook point, the better chance the point will find tissue, giving you a higher % of hook sets, when casting a jig.
I do not sell my jigs. I do have some photos, but still don't know how to post them, could email. Nu jig isn't an advertiser on this site, so I don't want to post the contact info.
Tom
Loop_Dad reply :
PM sent.
WRB reply :
A little more detail on horizontal jigging. When you cast a jig and it hits the water surface it falls through the water with very little action; the skirt moves but mostly stays close to the jig body and trailer. As the jig falls the trailer swims, depending on it's shape, but makes life like movements without you doing anything. Strike can and do happen during the initial fall, be alert! When the jig hits the bottom, the skirt flares out, the trailer floats upright giving the appearance of.a live crawdad. Any bass withing several feet will hear the jig hit the water and come over to check it out, they see the life like movements and become very interested. The first move the jig makes is forward swimming escape like dart, then another fall and stop repeating the life like movement. Be very alert because any nearby bass is now ready to strike and most strike occur at this time if the jig is in the strike zone. Continuing the retrieve you are now hoping to bring the jig within striking distance of bass holding near the structure as the jig get close.
You don't need to over fish a jig, you can jiggle it when stopped sometimes can triggers strikes, big hops rarely work for me, except to trigger strike from smaller bass that I am not interested in when jig fishing.
The reason I don't like to work the jig by lifting the rod tip, is missed strike because the rod is out of position to get a good hook set.
This is a very different presentation then you usually read about, it works!
It can be boring to just sit, point the rod at the jig and turn the reel handle a turn or two, then stop and wait a few seconds to feel the jig make bottom contact and watch the line jump slack, but keep alert the strike is often a tick when you don't expect it, but setting the hook into your PB bass is exciting and makes all worthwhile.
Tom
Loop_Dad reply :
On 9/16/2012 at 4:54 AM, WRB said:Fishing a jig from shore uphill is difficult. Making cast more parallel so you are working at an angle uphill works A lot better for me. The problem with an Arkie jig is the jig is designed to be more compact, the hook point about 1" from the jig head to have a space for the weed guard behind the hook eye, usually a 60'degree bend hook. You can trim the brush type weed guard and find some Arkie heads (Wadda jig) that uses a fine strand weed guard the help to improve hook setting, the point Is still nearly over the jig head. When the bass bites down on the jig, the hook often rolls 90 degrees missing any mouth tissue and in the inside ridge of the lips, then you miss the hook set. The further bck the hook point is into the bases mouth and the more upright the hook point, the better chance the point will find tissue, giving you a higher % of hook sets, when casting a jig.
I do not sell my jigs. I do have some photos, but still don't know how to post them, could email. Nu jig isn't an advertiser on this site, so I don't want to post the contact info.
Tom
I think the most of the hook is set on the side of the mouth for me.
On 9/16/2012 at 6:26 AM, WRB said:A little more detail on horizontal jigging. When you cast a jig and it hits the water surface it falls through the water with very little action; the skirt moves but mostly stays close to the jig body and trailer. As the jig falls the trailer swims, depending on it's shape, but makes life like movements without you doing anything. Strike can and do happen during the initial fall, be alert! When the jig hits the bottom, the skirt flares out, the trailer floats upright giving the appearance of.a live crawdad. Any bass withing several feet will hear the jig hit the water and come over to check it out, they see the life like movements and become very interested. The first move the jig makes is forward swimming escape like dart, then another fall and stop repeating the life like movement. Be very alert because any nearby bass is now ready to strike and most strike occur at this time if the jig is in the strike zone. Continuing the retrieve you are now hoping to bring the jig within striking distance of bass holding near the structure as the jig get close.
You don't need to over fish a jig, you can jiggle it when stopped sometimes can triggers strikes, big hops rarely work for me, except to trigger strike from smaller bass that I am not interested in when jig fishing.
The reason I don't like to work the jig by lifting the rod tip, is missed strike because the rod is out of position to get a good hook set.
This is a very different presentation then you usually read about, it works!
Tom
I'm liking more details. 
If your jig is far from you, then you are close to horizontal. At this point, any move you make will basically move the jig forward, but not upward. This is especially true in the situation when you are casting from shore and retrieving up hill. Only when it comes closer to you, then your lifting rod will make your jig goes hop and drop. This also depends on the weight of the jig I think.
I do different kind of retrieval, but yet to come to conclusion as to what works best for me. But in general, since I do this in colder weather, I go supper slow.
WRB reply :
Having been fortunate to jig fish for giant bass for over 40 years and catching them with this technique, the majority are hooked in the top of the mouth: the rough near the crunchers and the upper lip between the nostril, rarely in the corner of the mouth using a casting jig. The reson may be that my jig fishing is from a boat and retrieving down or side hill most of th time. To hook. Bss in the corner of the mouth, the bass would be turning away from you, not uncommon when fishing from shore.
Tom
Goose21 reply :
WRB, when you get the time send me a pm with a link to the Nu Jig...After a quick Google search I had no luck.
Love your insight by the way man great stuff.
Loop_Dad reply :
On 9/16/2012 at 7:19 AM, WRB said:Having been fortunate to jig fish for giant bass for over 40 years and catching them with this technique, the majority are hooked in the top of the mouth: the rough near the crunchers and the upper lip between the nostril, rarely in the corner of the mouth using a casting jig. The reson may be that my jig fishing is from a boat and retrieving down or side hill most of th time. To hook. Bss in the corner of the mouth, the bass would be turning away from you, not uncommon when fishing from shore.
Tom
Other thing I am always thinking about is how long do bass hang on to my jig before it decide to spit out. What do you think?
I use to set the hook any time I feel something which might be a strike. I lost lots of jigs doing this by snagging into some wood (I think.) The way I do now is like worm, if I feel something I keep the line tight and see for a second or two, then set the hook. This seems to work. And then by then, fish might be swimming away, therefore hook in the corner of the mouth. So my conclusion is they do hang on to the jig for at least few seconds.
I mainly use 1/2 oz with twin tail grub as trailer, not too much plastic. It is fairly compact set up, thinking has better chance the hook might be in the fish's mouth.
mifon reply :
Tom,
I want to tell you how much I appreciate your comments regarding jig fishing. I am in agreement with you on almost all that you have written. The beauty of a jig is that it can be made to attract bass no matter what there forage prey is at any given time. It has been mentioned in other posts that craw tails be used as trailers as well as twin twister type tails. I believe that all of these will work. But, mimick different forage. For example, a twin tail trailer might more closely emulate a perch, shad, or other "swimming" forage. While a craw tail type trailer is readily accepted by the bass as a crawfish forage. The way you work each of these will depend on which forage prey you are trying to emulate and of course which forage prey the bass are feeding on at that particular time. The "drag" retrieve will imitate the crawfish - the "hop" will imitate the swimming prey. Since both are a favorite food prey of the bass, you are likely to catch a bass with either retrieve. But just maybe one of these retrieves will work better on a given day according to what the bass are feeding on.
I love talking jigs!! Let's keep up this conversation!!!
Mike
WRB reply :
FYI, I did take a few pictures with my iPhone, has some issue with the password I need to correct to send via Emai and will try tomorrow.
What is referred to as a buggie whip hook set is more than likely why I call a snap set, the key is having a few inches of slack line, not a few feet! As mentioned earlier it,s about applying force needed to drive in the hook point past the barb. With a lot of line between you and the bass, loose line via a belly due to line drag in the water, wind or distance, the slack needs to be taken up before the hook set or you will not move the hook point. 3 feet of rod tip movement when the line is horizontal = few inches or no line movement between the rod tip and the jig. When the jig is more vertical, the line moves in proportion to the rod tip, less the rod flex, the snap set works good driving the hook home.
Keep in mind that I trophy fish and big bass really get exited when I snap set a jig into their mouth and they tend to freight train run into cover or trouble. The reel /rod sweep set is more controlled and the big bass often go along with the pressure for a few seconds before starting to run, giving me time to get the rod fully loaded and in upright position fight the bass.
In regards to trailers; the consensus with pork trailers is they work good in cold water, my believe is they work good year around. What is cold water? Where I bass fish the water rarely gets below 50 degrees and I catch the majority of giant* bass when the water is between 55 to 65 eefrees, on pork trailers. My favorite pork supplier is out do business; Super Pork. Uncle Josh is the only supplier today and most of their pork doen't float good or is too stiff, requiring pounding with a meat tenderizing hammer. Why not use soft plastic? I do use soft plastic trailers, but haven't ever caught a giant bass on a jig with a soft plastic trailer! All my giant jig bass were cuaght using a pork trailer. The reason may be the slower more natural life like movement and texture, I don't know for sure. All my pork trailers have a twin straight tails and swim slowly as the jig falls down though the water or moved forward and float upright when the jig is stopped. Soft plastic curl tails moves faster, straight claws move very little. Bait fish move with faster tail action, Crawdads move backwards with tail kicks and crawl forwards. Why bass react to various jig trailers is only speculation; we know bait fish swim in the water column and Crawdads are only found in the water column when escaping and looking for a hiding place.
Tom
* FLMB over 15 lbs.
PS; sent the photos, loop_dad
deep reply :
Tom, I have been following this thread since it was started. Great inputs (as always), and I've been taking notes. Would you share what sort of pork trailer you use now, and where they can be bought from?
WRB reply :
On 9/17/2012 at 8:54 AM, deep said:Tom, I have been following this thread since it was started. Great inputs (as always), and I've been taking notes. Would you share what sort of pork trailer you use now, and where they can be bought from?
I still have about 100 custom Super Pork trailers and haven't located another source. May need to learn how to make them!
mifon reply :
Tom,
Regarding the "snap set", you are exactly correct. Only inches in the line, not feet. This has to be determined by how deep and how far away your lure is when you set the hook. If it's windy, there will likely be some "belly" in your line. This has to all but be eliminated before the set. That's why I depend on a good 7:1 ratio reel and a longer rod (7-4 or 7-6).
As to your problem with Uncle Josh pork being too hard, I might suggest an old trick................add some Glycerine to the bottle. This seems to soften them right up!! If your concerned about the scent ( I personally haven't seen that it makes a difference scent-wise when I add Glycerine), add some J. J.'s Magic.
Mike
WRB reply :
On 9/17/2012 at 10:34 PM, mifon said:Tom,
Regarding the "snap set", you are exactly correct. Only inches in the line, not feet. This has to be determined by how deep and how far away your lure is when you set the hook. If it's windy, there will likely be some "belly" in your line. This has to all but be eliminated before the set. That's why I depend on a good 7:1 ratio reel and a longer rod (7-4 or 7-6).
As to your problem with Uncle Josh pork being too hard, I might suggest an old trick................add some Glycerine to the bottle. This seems to soften them right up!! If your concerned about the scent ( I personally haven't seen that it makes a difference scent-wise when I add Glycerine), add some J. J.'s Magic.
Reply: A few drops of glycerine helps to soften the pork rind, but doesn't aid in flotation. Tenderizing brings out the fat in the pork rind and helps it to float. The only scent I use with pork rind is pure anise oil and garlic; just add a few drops of anise oil and 1 fresh garlic clove per bottle. Trader Joes has fresh frozen garlic in 1 clove cubes.
The problem with commercial scents like JJ'is is they are like glue in contact with hair and I want the hair to move freely in the water. I wash the hair jigs in warm water and Joy soap, rise and air dry before fishing with them. The alternative to hair is round living rubber, silicone skirts have more color options, but natural movement is far more important than a broader range of colors with a jig skirt. The bass will see and her the jig, it's better if the jig looks live like the real thing. Bass feed in Crawdads at night and don't have any problem seeing them.
You also need a pig blanket or foam lined lure wrap to keep the pork wet during the days fishing. For all these reasons, pork is a hassle to fish with, but well worth the effort if big bass are your goal.
Another trick with pork trailers is making up heavy salt solution; 1 part I(cup) sea salt to 1 part (cup) water, boiled about 15 minutes. Use the heavy salt water to fill the pork rind bottles. I like wide mouth 1/2 pint size bottle, be sure to use glass jars have plastic lids!
Tom
Mike
merc1997 reply :
i would like to add something to this conversation. i do not know if anyone paid attention to when tom was talking about his hand position on the rod. it is in front of the reel. i have taught lots of my friends over the years to hold the rod in front of the reel. there are several advantages in doing this.
first and foremost is, you have much better feel. you are on the rod itself, and you can as tom does, run the line over your forefinger, or as i do and that is to run the line underneath your thumb. underneath your thumb is one of the most sensitive place on your hand.
the next reason and certainly just as important as feel is hook setting leverage and speed. there is no way that you can hold the rod by palming the reel, or behind the reel, and generate the power and speed setting the hook as you do when holding the rod in front of the reel.
i would imagine if anyone would ask tom, he might give you some of the same reasons for holding the rod in front of the reel that i did.
bo
WRB reply :
Bo reading your reply made me rethink how I hold the line; over the tip of the index finger and under the tip of the thumb. When I first learn to use a bait casting reel, it didn't have a level wind, so guiding the line became a natural line retrieve for me. It didn't take long to learn that the line movements were the key to knowing what was going on with the lures and could detect strike easily. No rod ever made will be as sensitive s your fingers and thumbs. This is one reason that I have been able to feel strike using yesterday's tackle and caught giant bass back in the 70's. Today's rods are a lot ligther and better balanced made with state of the art materials, but I don't rely on my rod for strike detection.
Today most bass anglers use longer rods with longer handle, rods I call trigger sticks because Fenwick was the first rod maker to offer this type of bass rod. When you hold the rod in front of the reel, the long rod handle goes under your forearm and becomes an extension of your arm, giving you a lot of leverage.
Tom
PS; Bo is your direct contact for Nu jigs.
Goose21 reply :
That Nu Jig looks very similar to the perfect strike alpha jig. I prefer a light as opposed to heavy wire hook when casting for cleaner hook sets from far out but I may give this jig a try.
Nick reply :
Nu Jig is ramping up for production. Bo James, the creator of both jigs is reverting back to the old style weedguards with three sizes whereas Alpha is still using the double brush guard design.
The moderators of this forum did not appreciate the Alpha jig discussion last year, but the proof of this jig's effectiveness is undeniable. Bo actually nade this jig in ther 80's as the Viper Jig, but it was discontinued over disputes over manufacturing rights. (Quite a tale of woe.) I'm rooting for my old buddy to get this jig out to the public very soon. Let the jig revolution beign!
Goose21 reply :
Thanks for the clarification Nick.
WRB reply :
Strike detection is the key to catching bass on jigs, the bass must have the jig in it's mouth to set the hook.
Sounds like a stupid statement, but every angler who fishes with jigs, miss a high % of strike from big bass and catch a higher % of smaller bass on jigs. There is a reason for this and to understand why simply try bed* fishing with a jig and watch a big bass strike your jig, you rarely feel anything. The smaller bass has a smaller mouth and can't generate enough water volume to vacuume the jig off the bottom and into it's mouth, they must bite the jig with their lips, then make a second effort to get the jig back into the crunchers to kill it. Bed bass have no intent on eating the jig, they want to kill it because a crawdad is a egg eater and a threat to the nest. The female bass over 7 lbs have a big mouth and big gills that can easily vacuume in the jig to the back of it's mouth, crunch it to kill and reject it very fast, no secondary bites.
You watch the big bass angle down near the jig, sometimes see a white flash to indicate the strike has occurred and try to set the hook without feeling the line move, you see it, but don't feel it! With practice to adjust your timing and hook setting technique the % of missing goes down, but you still miss a lot of strikes that you see happening.
Now try casting over 60 feet away from the boat, you can't see the bass strike and often may not feel a strike.
How do you get a hook set if you don't know the big bass has the jig in it's mouth? The bass must want to eat the jig, not just strike and reject it, or the hook must penetrate mouth tissue when the bass strike to kill the jig and the jig gets hung up in the basses big mouth for a moment , then you feel something when the bass either continues eating the jig or trying to reject it by shaking it loose. We catch most big bass when they actually eat the jig and don't reject it. Big bass are wary bass and have life learning experiences to reject anything that doesn't feel or taste right. Jigs have a lead head molded onto a sharp hook and it's doesn't feel right to big bass, so they reject them often. If the hook doesn't snag the upper mouth tissue or the ridge behind their big tough upper lip, the jig gets rejected cleanly, just like the big bed bass does while you are watching the strike happen, except you don't see it happen when casting a distance.
This is why the jig design and hook position is critical when casting jigs and retrieving further away from you than a 45 degree angle outward, the horizontal zone.
Tom
* I rarely intentionally target big bass on beds, not that it isn't fun or challenging, it's both. The lakes I fish are too small for the intense fishing pressure these big rare bass must face each spawning season. I focus on the staging period during pre spawn in deeper water, when the big bas are eating Crawdads, not trying to kill them. The big bass are very healthy and strong during pre spawn. It's a personal choice.
Loop_Dad reply :
I was happy that when I catch bass on jigs, they are generally bigger. Now I might be missing some big bass and not knowing it!
When you are buying jigs easily available on the market, what specifics that we should be looking for horizontal jigging? (ie. The hook point should be at least so much inches behind the head etc.)
Do more plastic increase the chance of bass not spitting it out too quickly? I have been using less, thinking the hook is more in the middle of the bait that way.
merc1997 reply :
a bit more about not being able to feel big bass take your jig. this is so true. and, it is why that you must pay attention to detail. this means knowing how your jig should feel each time it hits the bottom. how long it takes hit bottom each time you pull it. the amount of resistance on the line as you begin to move the jig. everytime one of these key elements is different, you just might need to be setting the hook. over the years, i have caught way more big bass setting the hook on something that happened just a bit different than it should have. most people just keep right on fishing and never realize that little bit of difference was a fish. this is exactly why you shoulf be holding the rod in front of the reel with finger or thumb in contact with line. one other element of the hookset that holding in front of the reel that aids you is called leverage. you have most of the weight behind your hand aiding in a more powerful and faster hookset.
bo
WRB reply :
The nothing bit with a jig is very hard to explain, it's always something, sometimes intuition...you just know you have been bit. It takes hundreds of cast with the same weight jig and similar trailer that gives the jig a certain feel and fall rate, plus you need to know the structure depth and whatever cover etc is there. As Bo said, swings are free.
I was fishing with a friend along a steep red clay bank and was back seating and he turns and says there sure are a lot of rocks on this bank and I tell him, there isn't any rocks along this bank...you just missed several strikes.. His next cast I watch as he works his jig with the rod, like you would fish a T-rig worm; lower the rod tip,let the jig hit bottom, then lift the rod to move the jig and repeat. As the rod was lowered his line went slack, then straightened out a little and went slack again, I said swing! He cuaght his first big bass.
Never could break him using his rod to move his all the time or watch or feel his line carefully. He is a very good plastic worm fisherman, not good with jigs.
Tom
merc1997 reply :
it is so hard to explain to someone else what you are feeling and sensing about the "no bite". as tom stated lots of casts, and i tried to explain "attention to detail". not only just fishing with jigs, but fishing any other lure in your arsenal. crankbaits would be another good example. i want to be using a rod that i can feel every wiggle that crankbait is making. the slightest change in that wiggle cadence, and i am jerking. i hope that some of these tips that have been presented by everyone will help. fishing is such a fun and challenging sport. fishing with a jig and learning all the different feels, and what is bites is a challenge and nothing is a better teacher than to go fishing. hey, that is a great idea!!! see you at the water.
bo
dave reply :
I found this thread and loved the information. I read an article YEARS ago in a magazine about a jig fishing expert that taught many a pro how to fish a jig by using the reel and not the rod. I could never find it again. Reading Tom's article, I realized that I have found it. I also think I figured out who the "fisherman in California" referenced in Bo's video is. 
deep reply :
ttt for newer members.
Slade House reply :
so Tom still hoping you will come out and fish Casitas with me sometime soon? going out again tomorrow on my boat with Doug Carlson. let me know. Also Tom's illustration about how to effectively fish a point is spot on.
BasshunterJGH reply :
This is an interesting topic. Thanks for all the helpful posts WRB. A couple questions: how do you make your jigs? Also, are there any other jigs besides the *** you would recommend from tackle warehouse?
BasshunterJGH reply :
One more thing: do you know of any good pork trailers available? Where do you get yours from now?
WRB reply :
I made my jig molds back in '71, a viper stand up head designed to go through rocky areas easier than a football head that puts the hook point further back from the head to improve hook sets when casting a jig.
Regarding pork rind trailers; SuperPork went out of business last year, no replacement. Uncle Josh is the only pork rind lure company still making jig trailers to the best of my knowledge.
PM and I can tell you how to make your own...it's time consuming, takes about 3 weeks and messy.
Tom
WRB reply :
I know you have a red boat and will talk to you at the ramp if you are there when I am.On 10/24/2014 at 3:51 PM, Slade House said:so Tom still hoping you will come out and fish Casitas with me sometime soon? going out again tomorrow on my boat with Doug Carlson. let me know. Also Tom's illustration about how to effectively fish a point is spot on.
Tom
deep reply :
Luckily there's at least one online vendor with some superpork available.
Tom, could you tell us what to look for in pork trailers (size, floatation, action etc)? Should we shave a little fat off where the hook goes in, and also where the claws start?
Weld's Largemouth reply :
Read everything in this thread, thank you Tom for providing guidance and sharing your experience with us all, it's a pleasure to have great anglers like you on BassResource!
WRB reply :
I can email some sketches.On 12/11/2014 at 10:22 AM, deep said:Luckily there's at least one online vendor with some superpork available.
Tom, could you tell us what to look for in pork trailers (size, floatation, action etc)? Should we shave a little fat off where the hook goes in, and also where the claws start?
A good pork rind trailer should be like soft leather and float on top of the water, not sink on it's own.
Bass do not like live crawdads with big claws, they prefer no claws or smaller claws if they have a choice.
When I fished live crawdads we removed the claws to improve our catch rate. Soft plastic trailers use claws as flappers to give the illusion the plastic is alive and swimming, it's a unnatural movement for a crawdad.
Pork rind trailers have a natural movement like a Senko, moves enough to look alive to the bass.
My pork trailers are 3" and 4" long X 3/4 to 1" wide with a split tail 2 1/2"- 3" long, similar to a pork frog with thicker longer tails, very simple shape that swims very good.
I have a sketch to show outline and how to trim a pork trailer. Dying pork colors is also easy if you start with natural cured white pork rind.
Tom
deep reply :
On 12/11/2014 at 12:25 PM, WRB said:..
Thanks Tom, on behalf of everyone. I believe I already have the sketch you're referring to. I'll be happy to post it here- with your permission- if anyone's interested.
deep reply :
Tom's jigs:
*close up photos of a few jigs and pork trailer. The pork trailer is a copy of the old Pedigo 4” lizard made for me by SuperPork*, now out of business.
travis23 reply :
Tom, a few weeks ago we spoke briefly on hair jigs. I noticed when I put the pork trailer on the jig, the hair clumped together and had no movement. I was using Uncle Joshs #11 i believe. How do you keep the haiir flowing naturaly and not clumping. I imagine it has to do with the liquid in the pork bottle?
WRB reply :
On 12/12/2014 at 10:10 AM, travis23 said:Tom, a few weeks ago we spoke briefly on hair jigs. I noticed when I put the pork trailer on the jig, the hair clumped together and had no movement. I was using Uncle Joshs #11 i believe. How do you keep the haiir flowing naturaly and not clumping. I imagine it has to do with the liquid in the pork bottle?
When the hair gets coated with heavy oils or scent gels it tends to mat together under water. If the wet hair is clumped around the trailer out of the water, that is normal, in the water that could be a problem.
Wash the hair jig in mild up scented soap like a Joy, rinse and blow dry.
I thread on a 3/4" piece of soft plastic worm on the hook shank and slide it under the hair up to the jig collar to help flare out the hair and prevent the pork trailer from fowling the hook point. You nose hook a pork trailer, don't thread in on like a soft plastic trailer.
The liquid in a pork jar should be heavy salt water, not oil.
Tom
WRB reply :
Deep, thank you posting the photos.
The jigs in the pictures were tied by the late Doug "Skinny" Harris, the detail is amazing. I don't add eyes other than red dots for crawdad color and yellow dots for shad color and use plain Testers enamel paint for jigs I normally fish with.
Tom
BasshunterJGH reply :
Tom, do you make your own pork trailers? Do you just buy pork from the grocery store?
WRB reply :
Since SuperPork went out of business I make my own pork trailers.On 12/13/2014 at 4:55 AM, BasshunterJGH said:Tom, do you make your own pork trailers? Do you just buy pork from the grocery store?
I can post a how to when time permits.
Tom
BasshunterJGH reply :
Ok thanks I'd like to start using pork. What you said about the bass not wanting to eat the claws makes sense.On 12/13/2014 at 5:13 AM, WRB said:Since SuperPork went out of business I make my own pork trailers.
I can post a how to when time permits.
Tom
travis23 reply :
On 12/13/2014 at 5:13 AM, WRB said:Since SuperPork went out of business I make my own pork trailers.
I can post a how to when time permits.
Tom
woulld love to hear it.
WRB reply :
Posted a how to in the tacklemaking forum.On 12/13/2014 at 9:41 AM, travis23 said:woulld love to hear it.
Pork trailers should be high floatation and soft, not stiff, for a natural life like motion underwater.
Tom
travis23 reply :
On 12/13/2014 at 12:03 PM, WRB said:Posted a how to in the tacklemaking forum.
Pork trailers should be high floatation and soft, not stiff, for a natural life like motion underwater.
Tom
Thanks!
deep reply :
Tom's smallmouth hair jigs!
WRB reply :
The above 2 hair jigs have brighter colors than my largemouth hair jigs. The Shad color shown earlier is also good smallie color and the brown with green above is a good largemouth color in the spring, all colors will catch LMB, and smallmouth or spots at times.
The brown Chartreuse with red is called Fritts after Dave Fritts brown/chartreuse crankbait.
The light brown with green/ black is spring craw.
I haven't shared these jig colors on a site like BR before so they should be new colors to most folks, hope you enjoy them.
Tom
WRB reply :
I had forgotten the photos of my hair jigs and pork rind trailer were on this site...I didn't share that anywhere else!
Tom
FordsnFishin reply :
Thanks for the resurrection. Was a very good read and look forward to putting your advice into practice.
thinkingredneck reply :
I appreciate this extensive discussion. I learned a lot. I think it should be pinned.
Bass_Fishing_Socal reply :
Thank you Tom. I used your technique and caught a bass today.
I actually tried your technique a few time already especially at night when fishing from dock and in my kayak.
Today while I was reeling my jig passed rock and mud while pointing my rod tip parallel to water and line on my finger, all the sudden the line went slack I set hook and result in a nice 2-3 lber.
12poundbass reply :
Wow great info here, thanks @WRB!
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