Daiwa THIS, Shimano THAT, Abu THIS, etc etc -HELP- 2024
TotalNoob reply :
I haven't been on this forum for very long but I've been spending a lot of time reading through a lot of threads, old and new. I came here looking for answers and often find myself more lost after reading through the information I find.
This post is essentially a cry for help. Too much of my time and too much money (for me) is being spent researching endless products until I'm blue in the face and on purchases I'm not confident in. This circle of confusion has to stop because I'm not even sure how much I enjoy actual fishing anymore. I want to be better, I am getting better, I want to take logical next steps but it is very difficult in the information overload world we live in now.
I'm just flat STUNNED at how complex and overwhelming all the options are. I feel like I'm probably in the majority of folks who either recently started fishing semi-seriously or got back into fishing (I'm the latter) and have been 1) completely overwhelmed at the options on the market and 2) confused as to what all these different options are, what their best applications are, and what actual properties separate one product from a comparable product. Easy game if you've been in it for years, beyond overwhelming if you haven't.
For example, here's a post from an April thread that I recently found while researching - hopefully this can help make clear where my "beginner" confusion is:
Thread Title: Daiwa Fuego ct vs shimano caenan
Response: "Between the caenan and fuego specifically I'd have to go fuego. It's feature limited compared to the tatula but those magforce Z brakes are hard to beat."
My thought process is a common one: I want to get a quality reel that doesn't break the bank that simultaneously has some lasting power/durability. There are apparently multiples of these "lower" tier options on the market (what a shock).
Based on what I've read on this forum, the Daiwa Fuego CT seems to be a good choice (I'm DEFINITELY not trying to start a debate here) but how can I understand WHY?
In that above response, it's noted that the Fuego CT is "feature limited". Okay, I like that, some honest thoughts on a product (vs all the crap Youtube vids with affiliate links etc). But what does "feature limited" mean exactly? What features are missing? So I research further...
Among the many threads I locate is this thread from Nov '17 (Titled: Fuego CT vs Tatula CT) with the following response: "Have both. No performance difference, but they do look a bit different As far as colors and finish goes. Either is a great choice. If you can swing the extra 30 bucks I say tatula."
If there is no performance difference and COLOR is the most notable difference between them, why would you recommend spending the extra $30 for the Tatula? Feels like there has to be a better reason this individual would recommend spending the extra $30. And by the way, what the heck does "CT" and "XT" and "Type R" stand for? Are we buying cars here?
The worst part for me is, that particular thread ends with the OP (who asked the initial question) posting literally: "Found a better deal and got a Gen 4 Revo Sx for $75."
Boom. Thread ends. And so now I start to look up this Gen 4 Revo Sx to try to understand IT'S characteristics last night (how is it different/better, is it more durable, etc) but fall asleep on the couch with laptop in lap and 13 tabs open in my browser when I wake up.
Okay now, having said ALL that, I do feel like I'm gradually understanding some of the nuances better (more so on the rods than reels) BUT there absolutely has to be a better way to learn these things without breaking the bank in the process and being left with tackle I may or may not ever use. I, like many others probably, just want to make good, informed decisions and feel confident about them.
Specifically, I ordered two rods a few days ago - One rod is an Okuma 6'8" MMF "Topwater/Jerkbait" (obvious purposes, mostly topwater though and possibly lighter jerks) and one is a 6'9" MH/F Abu Garcia Veritas that I hopeto use to throw heavier jerkbaits in the Spring and Fall. This Spring I learned from many a night fishing under moons that jerkbaits work very well in my fishery which contains all three Black Bass, Walleye, and some Wiper.
Anyway, I saved about $40 bucks total on these two rods using a 20% ebay coupon, so I spent $141 total for the two rods. I feel like that's a good deal, I'm very hopeful the rods work out for the purposes stated, I guess only time will tell. Now, I naturally need reels for these rods... so the research begins again.
Those above threads I referenced (and many others I didn't) ARE generally helpful, please don't misunderstand. But is it easy to see how I still walk away from them scratching my head? I'm often times left more confused than when I started. Just when I thought I was starting to "figure out" rod selection, now I'm stuck in a rut trying to find reels that aren't crap but aren't expensive (not that I would know the differences anyway).
Where is the clarity? The fishing market must be absolutely killing it in profits, driven by: 1) The endless supply of vague information out there leading to confusion and resulting in misguided purchases by amateur anglers and, to some degree, 2) The more I read it's beginning to seem like some folks are closer to being "collectors" than actual fisherman - or most likely a combination of the two.
What rabbit hole have I gone down and more importantly WHERE CAN I FIND CLARITY TO GET OUT? You'd think that for ALL the d**n youtube channels, forums, and marketing outlets that some good soul out there would have created a simple to follow Chart or Buying Guide for which reels match best with which techniques and which types of lines etc etc etc - and most importantly: WHY. Amateurs need to be able to connect the dots in this insane market where there's 10 products for every application.
How about some kind of unbiased site where a fresh-faced angler (regardless of age... young, old, or exactly 36 .. you know, whatever) inputs certain general and specific criteria related to their fishery (target species), whether they fish from boat or shore, their experience level, budget, etc etc - then it spits out various information based on known techniques for targeted species, rod/reel/line options, and, most importantly, EXPLANATIONS ABOUT WHY EXACTLY THESE POTENTIAL PURCHASES ARE GOOD AND WHAT DISTINGUISHES THEM FROM COMPARABLE PRODUCTS.
I understand this thread might seem silly to some - and definitely long to everyone. I know I'll be getting responses ranging the spectrum like "just find a fishing style you like and stick with it", "don't go crazy on tackle, just enjoy fishing and forget about all the hype", "check out such-and-such thread for buying guides" (btw I feel like these lack too much info, especially for reels).
When you have been in the game for a long time and have an understanding of products and their specific functions, a door is naturally opened for higher levels of debate with your peers regarding specific products - as it should be. But what does one do who doesn't have all this experience and already recognizes the rabbit hole he has begun to go down, lacking the level of comfort and clarity in purchasing decisions?
I feel like at some point I can definitely be at the level where I can distinguish the nuances in products and make good decisions... There just has to be a clearer, more reasonable way for amateurs to navigate this bloated fishing market we live in now so as to not go broke or crazy in the process. I don't have thousands to spend without consequence and I would like to know I'm purchasing products that will get the job done and provide a good level of durability. Is that really too much to ask?
roadwarrior reply :
Well, is there any hobby, sport or activity where you can learn ALL the nuances from the get-go?
I don't think so. Here is a few specific thread that might be helpful for starters:
onenutinthewater reply :
Good to see I am not the only one that way overthinks these decisions!
Just go buy a Tatula and be done with it! I have 6 and dont regret a single one but do regret several other reels......
Choporoz reply :
TLDR. Adderall, maybe?
Sorry to be a smartazz...but, you want it simplified, its going to be simple. Couple of Chop's personal observations:
-you get what you pay for here on BR
-very few product info posts incorporate thorough, honest comparisons...it just isn't every thread that you find someone who has compared the exact two or three models you're looking at
-very few of us are professional reviewers -- everyone has different things they value, notice, dislike, etc....so you'll find little unfiltered objectivity
-just maybe those tech/feature differences are subtle or negligible to 98% of the novice bass equipment buyers
-I'll go out on a limb and suggest that if you spend, say $120 on any rod or reel with specs close to your intended usage...you aren't likely to be disappointed
roadwarrior reply :
TylerT123 reply :
On 7/26/2018 at 2:13 AM, Choporoz said:TLDR. Adderall, maybe?
I was thinking Ritalin?
TotalNoob reply :
On 7/26/2018 at 2:09 AM, roadwarrior said:Well, is there any hobby, sport or activity where you can learn ALL the nuances from the get-go?
Agreed. My broader point is that it feels an awful lot like the market is set up for an amateur to spend way too much money and be left with too much unused products before reaching that point.
Thank you for the links.
On 7/26/2018 at 2:13 AM, Choporoz said:-I'll go out on a limb and suggest that if you spend, say $120 on any rod or reel with specs close to your intended usage...you aren't likely to be disappointed
That's pretty much exactly what I'm doing, and that's exactly what I don't like about it.
Choporoz reply :
On 7/26/2018 at 2:18 AM, TylerT123 said:I was thinking Ritalin?
No...sorry....didn't mean to be insulting...just that focus apparently isn't yet a strong suit...and I get that can come from information overload....the fact is that little of the details on equipment beyond basic specs are going to matter very much until one gets some time in with different gear
GReb reply :
The market is much more friendly to new fisherman than it was a decade ago. Budget friendly products are much higher quality and easier to use now.
deep reply :
Having a bunch of choices is good, except when it's not.
In vein with the keeping it simple theme, any aluminium (or metal) framed reel will probably last you a long time. Me, I keep it even simpler. Shimanos- citica and above. Unfortunately, I had to go through a few Daiwas and Abus and Pro Qualifiers before I found out the simple set and forget Shimanos work well for me and my thumb. Ain't going to try anything else unless I get it for free. My fishing time is important to me.
Let me take a stab at *what actual properties separate one product from a comparable product*
I want a reel that casts far enough, and consistently. I don't want to mess with the brakes or the spool tension every few casts, or everytime the wind slightly picks up. I'm okay with thumbing a bit more, but that's about it.
I want a decent drag. I don't need 20+ lbs of drag for bass fishing. My rods- well except my swimbait rods I guess- will break long before that. I do want a smooth drag though.
I want a reasonably smooth retrieve. Pre I-Curados were not that smooth compared to newer reels. I was and am okay with that. Still have a couple G's in the rotation. My standards are a little low on that front.
Finally, I need a reel that'll last hopefully for a lifetime, but 5+ years is okay. I have bought and fish used reels that are older than 5 years.
What qualities do you want in your new reel?
P.S. Don't start looking at Lews reels. They have (or had) a couple dozen models in the $80-120 range lol.
TylerT123 reply :
On 7/26/2018 at 2:22 AM, Choporoz said:No...sorry....didn't mean to be insulting...just that focus apparently isn't yet a strong suit...and I get that can come from information overload....the fact is that little of the details on equipment beyond basic specs are going to matter very much until one gets some time in with different gear
Yeah, when I started to look for a baitcaster I researched the qualities that made a good reel, not good reels. I wrote down what a “good reel” had such as quality bearings, aluminum frame... That helped a lot, looking for specs of a decent reel and not someone else’s opinion of a good reel. Then I narrowed it down to what I wanted.
Chance_Taker4 reply :
Fuego CT vs Tatula Ct. They are the EXACT same reel EXCEPT the Tactula has the T-Wing line guide which allows line to move freely off the spool some people do not feel that this particular feature warrants the extra $30 that is personal preference. The "CT" means Compact (Type-R is in relation to the fast gear ratio to mimick the submodel of Japanese tuners). As for the Gen 4 Revo SX they retail for $160 so someone buying it brand new for $75 is getting it for 53% off which is a great deal no matter the product. Why that particular Revo is good is the light, compact design. It comes with both Magnetic and Centrifugal brakes and Abu Garcia has good customer services.
Not to confuse you anymore but Lews, Abu Garcia, Mitchell, Pfluegar, Bass Pro Shops are all made by Doyo a reel company in Korea. There parts are pretty much interchangeable. "DC" on Shimano reels means digital control which means the brakes are digital (think computer controlled).
PAbasser927 reply :
On 7/26/2018 at 2:37 AM, Chance_Taker4 said:Fuego CT vs Tatula Ct. They are the EXACT same reel EXCEPT the Tactula has the T-Wing line guide which allows line to move freely off the spool some people do not feel that this particular feature warrants the extra $30 that is personal preference.
I believe the Tatula also has a few more bearings and the side plates are also aluminum, not just the frame like the Fuego. I actually just bought a Fuego CT on eBay last week with the 20% off code. It is a very impressive reel for the price point!
12poundbass reply :
On 7/26/2018 at 2:20 AM, TotalNoob said:that it feels an awful lot like the market is set up for an amateur to spend way too much money and be left with too much unused products
They are in the business to make money.
On 7/26/2018 at 2:01 AM, TotalNoob said:What rabbit hole have I gone down and more importantly WHERE CAN I FIND CLARITY TO GET OUT?
The fishing rabbit hole! You're stuck here for good. Look at profiles some of these guys on here have been stuck here 15 plus years!
Seriously though sit back and enjoy the ride, it ain't all that bad. ????
Fishingmickey reply :
If you want simple, Shimano Caenaan or Casistas (80-100), Diawa Fuego CT or Tatula CT (100-130). Gear ratio just hit the middle 6.3:1 or 7:1. Rod's St Crouix, Doybn's, Shimano & Diawa again dang near any of the one's listed on Tackle Warehouse. Decent quality rods will go around a 100. You want to build a selection. Get a couple of medium action 6'8" - 7' (for lighter baits) Medium heavy fast 7'ers for bottom baits (jigs and worms). Medium heavy moderate action for Crankbaits, Spinnerbaits, Chatterbait etc. Last but not least one heavy fast action 7'-7'4" for frogging and heavy cover work, It is only as complicated as you want to make it. Get one of the above reels and one medium heavy fast rod spool with berkely big game 12-14# and go fish.
Fishingmickey
Team9nine reply :
Probably of little help, but they're they're just reels...a tool to help you do your job (catch fish). If you simply stick to any of them that have already proven the test of time, you're fine. I refer to them as "standards," and this applies to everything from line to rods/reels to baits. For baitcasters, anything 'Curado', 'Revo' or 'Pro Qualifier' depending on your budget will work great. Why that is or how they compare to anything else model-wise is irrelevant and meaningless at the beginner level (IMHO). Who cares? You shouldn't! Just buy any one of their many particular models and go fish...the fish could care less which one you use.
rippin-lips reply :
Here’s something to make it super easy. Stick to the top two reel manufacturers ( Daiwa and Shimano) and pick one that receives high praise for performance/value and offers the features you like. As the old saying goes K.I.S.S
Daiwa tatula ct
Daiwa tatula sv
Fuego ct
Shimano Caenan
Shimano Curado K
Shimano Citica I
Mobasser reply :
On 7/26/2018 at 3:32 AM, Team9nine said:Probably of little help, but they're they're just reels...a tool to help you do your job (catch fish). If you simply stick to any of them that have already proven the test of time, you're fine. I refer to them as "standards," and this applies to everything from line to rods/reels to baits. For baitcasters, anything 'Curado', 'Revo' or 'Pro Qualifier' depending on your budget will work great. Why that is or how they compare to anything else model-wise is irrelevant and meaningless at the beginner level (IMHO). Who cares? You shouldn't! Just buy any one of their many particular models and go fish...the fish could care less which one you use.
Very true! All the reels that were mentioned will catch a lot of bass.Dont get too hung up on brand. They all have many of the same features. Maintain them the best you can, and they will all work well. One of my favorites- ABU 4600C. 22 yrs old and still works great
TotalNoob reply :
I want to thank you guys for the responses. Regardless of how I made my feelings for this forum sound I just want to be 100% clear that I learn something every single time I'm here. Period. Reading through new and old threads is enlightening to say the least, even if some of it does lead to additional temporary frustration.
This post has basically been boiling up inside in of me for probably the better part of 6 months now. It felt good to get it out honestly, and I'm thankful for the responses.
On 7/26/2018 at 2:27 AM, deep said:Let me take a stab at *what actual properties separate one product from a comparable product*
I want a reel that casts far enough, and consistently. I don't want to mess with the brakes or the spool tension every few casts, or everytime the wind slightly picks up. I'm okay with thumbing a bit more, but that's about it.
I want a decent drag. I don't need 20+ lbs of drag for bass fishing. My rods- well except my swimbait rods I guess- will break long before that. I do want a smooth drag though.
I want a reasonably smooth retrieve. Pre I-Curados were not that smooth compared to newer reels. I was and am okay with that. Still have a couple G's in the rotation. My standards are a little low on that front.
Finally, I need a reel that'll last hopefully for a lifetime, but 5+ years is okay. I have bought and fish used reels that are older than 5 years.
What qualities do you want in your new reel?
I feel like the key question that needs defined is going to be something like "What is the best reel for my fishery?"
As stated, we have the 3 black bass, eyes, and wiper. If I were dealing with bass and walleye only I don't believe I'd be diving too terribly deep into the fine detail of an $80 reel vs $120 vs $200 etc. Our Bass here (mostly smallmouth and spotted) aren't gigantic and there definitely aren't gorgeous 7, 8+ lb largemouths here. I believe my reservoir is what may be referred to as a desert reservoir - southern Colorado. There are some big Pike in some of the mountain lakes not too far from me, 2 hr drive tops. I've been there only once but I'm determined to land some big Pike as part of my fishing experiences.
What I think about when I think about quality of a reel is that time in the future when I am definitely going to hook into a 15 to 20lb Wiper (gotta stay positive) - I don't want no stinking cheap reel in that moment of truth. But because that possibility exists primarily only in Spring and I guess maybe Fall, I probably don't need an arsenal of badass reels at my constant disposal.
In April I purchased a Shimano Curado K because it was basically all the chatter. For really no other reason. The reviews looked great so I pulled the trigger on ebay with a coupon and paid like $134. I look back on it as an uninformed decision.
I'm frustrated with the external brake dial as it seems to stick very heavily but mostly there seems to be something wrong with the level line guide. I've spooled mono, fluoro, and braid and regardless of line type there is always a "pile up" of line on the right side of the spool. The left side of spool is low but the right side is full. It's very consistent and specific. I have 2 other baitcasters and they don't this so I know it's not in the way I'm spooling. So I'm frustrated with that reel. It's been sitting in it's box for 3 months now and I'm not even sure what to do with it.
Anyway, I feel like I need some basic "everyday" kind of equipment, for summer fishing but then in Spring and Fall I want something really solid (or solid enough) to handle a potential big wiper or pike.
islandbass reply :
I think you were as informed as could be, so don't be too hard on yourself.
The curado in general is an everyday reel and a true workhorse.
It seems you just need to up to working standard although regrettably, it wasn't out of the box. That happens from any reel maker.
It should still be under warranty. It's one of the things I personally don't like about buying sight unseen. I prefer to hold the reel I want to buy in hand. However, that is beside the point. No reel is fun to use if it is not in prime or optimal working condition. Get that curado back up to speed, or exchange it at the store for one that is working right.
The curado, in whatever iteration is a true work horse. I'm just sorry it didn't work well out of the box for you.
TotalNoob reply :
On 7/26/2018 at 2:10 AM, onenutinthewater said:Good to see I am not the only one that way overthinks these decisions!
Just go buy a Tatula and be done with it! I have 6 and dont regret a single one but do regret several other reels......
On 7/26/2018 at 2:55 AM, PAbasser927 said:I believe the Tatula also has a few more bearings and the side plates are also aluminum, not just the frame like the Fuego. I actually just bought a Fuego CT on eBay last week with the 20% off code. It is a very impressive reel for the price point!
Is this the Tatula CT I'd be looking to buy ($99/ebay)? The one with the same frame as the Fuego CT but has more ball bearings and is all aluminum?
New 2016 Daiwa Tatula CT Baitcast Fishing Reel 100HS Right hand 7.3:1 TACT100HS
Or would I be looking for the 2017 version (and what's the difference)?
Also someone mentioned in another thread that the Twing system doesn't work with or is difficult with leader knots. Is there any validity to this because if so that would be a total deal breaker.
Team9nine reply :
On 7/26/2018 at 7:35 AM, TotalNoob said:
In April I purchased a Shimano Curado K because it was basically all the chatter. For really no other reason. The reviews looked great so I pulled the trigger on ebay with a coupon and paid like $134. I look back on it as an uninformed decision.
I'm frustrated with the external brake dial as it seems to stick very heavily but mostly there seems to be something wrong with the level line guide. I've spooled mono, fluoro, and braid and regardless of line type there is always a "pile up" of line on the right side of the spool. The left side of spool is low but the right side is full. It's very consistent and specific. I have 2 other baitcasters and they don't this so I know it's not in the way I'm spooling. So I'm frustrated with that reel. It's been sitting in it's box for 3 months now and I'm not even sure what to do with it.
Anyway, I feel like I need some basic "everyday" kind of equipment, for summer fishing but then in Spring and Fall I want something really solid (or solid enough) to handle a potential big wiper or pike.
Curado's are pretty much bullet proof. Certainly not an uninformed choice IMO. Sounds more like you got some type of bad deal from an eBay seller. The line spooling to one side is usually a worn pawl. External brake sticking doesn't sound right either. Sounds more like someone pawned off a used/defective reel on you. Probably too late to return. If so, I'd send it to DVT or similar and have them fix it up. If you don't want to do that, then sell it here and get a decent chunk of change back to purchase something else. As islandbass stated, they are workhorses. I've got a few that are nearly 20 years old and still going strong!
TylerT123 reply :
The Curado’s levelwind is fine, mine does it too. I wouldn’t worry about it, especially with that deep spool. The dial just needs used more and it’ll loosen up or take a screwdriver and loosen the screw slightly.
PAbasser927 reply :
On 7/26/2018 at 8:04 AM, TotalNoob said:Also someone mentioned in another thread that the Twing system doesn't work with or is difficult with leader knots. Is there any validity to this because if so that would be a total deal breaker.
I have a few reels with the T wing and I agree is does not pass a leader knot very well. It can be done by lifting the line into the t wing opening right when the knot is about to pass on to the spool, but you do have to be conscious as the knot is coming up. If you forget and the knot hits the level wind, you have to loosen the drag and pull some out since the t wing swings forward when opening - the leader knot keeps it from doing so when it hits. Kind of a pain, but I don’t like my leader knot on the spool anyway so I rarely have to deal with it.
MisterDeadeye reply :
Put simply, most reels and rods on the market will work. You could walk into Wal-Mart and buy a Zebco 33(even though they are awful now) and an Ugly Stik, and you would have minimal issues with all types of baits, excluding big swimbaits and tiny 1/16oz flies. That's only because of the difference in weight -- you wouldn't be able to cast the fly more than a few yards, and the swimbait could potentially break your rod in some instances. Even then, when I was a kid, I used this kind of gear fishing for everything from tiny bluegill to 20lb blue catfish.
Most of the discussion on this forum about using this specific line in this application, with this specific rod and reel with this exact gear ratio -- it's about creating absolute perfection. You don't need a 7'6" Heavy frog rod, 60lb braid, and a reel with a high speed gear ratio. If you have time and money, or if you fish professionally, yeah, it makes sense to create a dozen different setups with optimal rods and reels for each bait you use. Other than that, though, it doesn't really matter that much. What you gain by having all of these different optimized setups is minimal, so the choice is yours. If you want to spend thousands of dollars on fishing gear, go for it. If you don't, that's fine too.
You're exactly right. The market is designed to make people think that they need 10 rods and 10 reels, every soft plastic in 40 different colors, 15 types of topwater baits, etc. The truth is that there are dozens of reels around or just under $100 that will do just about everything that a $400 reel will do. The main difference is the feel. More expensive reels will often be lighter, or have more bearings, better handle knobs, different gears(Shimano Micro Module as an example). All of these features are based around the way the reel feels. The spool will spin more smoothly, the handle will turn more smoothly, the actual gears meshing will feel different("better" here is subjective).
The most valuable information is going to come from what the different brands offer. As someone above pointed out, several reels from different companies are made in the same factory. They're fine options. Magnetic brakes, the important spots have bearings, the gears and drag washers are fine. None of them are particularly special, especially on the lower end, but they will all cast things like Senkos, crankbaits, frogs, Whopper Ploppers, etc.
Then, you have people like Daiwa and Shimano, both of whom do things differently. Daiwa uses the proprietary Magforce(slight variations as you spend more money) brake system. You can find videos explaining the idea, but it's something that, to me, is genius. It's simple but elegant, and it works fantastically. Their more expensive reels are even more unbelievable. The same thing goes for Shimano. They use a centrifugal brake system using pins, that are typically set and forget, much like the Magforce. I don't understand it on a fundamental level, but essentially it utilizes pins to create friction, preventing the spool from spinning too fast. This is different than magnetic brakes, which work, but may need to be adjusted more frequently based on their effectiveness. The DC system is astonishing, much like Daiwa's more expensive stuff. For those reasons, I am partial to Daiwa and Shimano, and I believe that's why they have emerged recently as the top dogs in the market. That's why they're recommended so much, because of the VBS braking system of the past, and because of the introduction of Magforce.
Beyond that, there are companies like KastKing and Piscifun. They're targeting the absolute entry-level market, using cheap Chinese parts/labor(it's just a fact, I'm not hating). They typically have bearings everywhere, carbon drag washers, some have carbon fiber handles, waffled spools, and slick paint jobs. On paper, they should be every bit as good as some of the cheaper Doyo stuff at the very least, but one drawback of the Chinese market is that quality assurance is lacking. You're more likely to get a rod/reel that's DOA or that has some kind of catastrophic failure quickly. For that reason, despite the specifications, these reels are not recommended as much as Daiwa, Shimano, Abu Garcia, etc.
Now... I'm going to try to tackle some specific things you brought up. As someone mentioned, the Fuego CT and the Tatula CT are almost the same reel. They use many of the same parts(and some of the parts have different model numbers solely because of the paint job), and they use the same frame. The differences are the T-Wing System, two bearings in the handle knobs themselves(so I'm talking about the actual knobs on the handle, not the whole thing), as well as an aluminum side plate, although that last point might be false. There is actually no indication in the marketing that the side plate is aluminum, and you can find a post of someone complaining about the Tatula CT having a composite side plate(on the handle side), with pictures to prove it. Also, the parts diagram for the CT Type-R shows the same honeycomb pattern on the side plate that is in the Fuego's diagram. In short, the main difference is the T-Wing, which is enough for some people to suggest the extra $30, whether it's because of marketing hype, or the potential for "longer" casts, etc.
Back to general differences among reels. Corrosion resistant bearings cost more than standard ones. Aluminum, Magnesium, metal alloys in general cost more to machine and develop than composites do. Clicking spool tension knobs, metal drag stars, proprietary things like the TWS from Daiwa and X-Ship from Shimano also carry a price bump. Some of these things are important depending on what you need. If you're fishing in saltwater, corrosion resistant bearings are important. If you're fishing for big fish, a metal frame is a good idea because some composites can flex under stress.
With all of that said, if you're fishing for bass and you don't need to cast a mile or go to a tournament, you could close your eyes and pick a reel. You don't need a lot of drag, you don't need fancy bearings or even a metal frame. Everyone has their own bias, though, so some people will recommend buying a Casitas because of its stunning performance, while others will recommend something like the Fuego CT because of the braking system and aluminum frame. At that point, it comes down to what your biases are. Are you the kind of person who won't buy a Glock because it's "plastic"? Are you the kind of person who will spend an extra $20 on a pair of sunglasses for the brand name? All we can do is give you our recommendations. It's up to you to discern what's the best option for you.
I'm also a "beginner". Before this summer, I hadn't fished in ~10 years when I was in high school, and I kind of used whatever back then. I've read all of the same threads that you have, and if any of them were recent, I probably commented in some of them. There are many technical things that I've learned, but I've also seen people directly contradict empirical data despite it being right in front of them, I've seen people make heavy-handed comments on a particular brand of fishing line, or composite reels as a whole, based solely on their personal experience despite others disagreeing. It's important to see through the rhetoric and the bias, and to look at technical differences, and you also can't read a comment and take it as a universal truth. All of that has to be examined, and checked against logic and what you already know.
Pay attention to the things that are important in a reel:
- Max drag -- Are you fishing for largemouth and smallmouth bass or something bigger? Choose accordingly.
- Braking system -- Do you change lures often? Does the weight vary by a large margin? If so, decide if you are fine with turning a dial every time, or if you want to find a happy medium and forget about the brakes.
- Ergonomics -- This isn't mentioned a lot, but reels come in all different shapes and sizes. If you can, play with reels in person so you can see if the handle is long/short enough, if it sits too low or too high on the seat, if there's some kind of lever or knob that's going to bother your finger.
- Durability -- Saltwater? How long do you want this reel to last? Do you drop things often? How often are you going to breakdown the reel to clean it? Metal is typically more durable especially if you're a klutz, sealed corrosion resistant bearings will last longer, etc.
- Gear ratio -- My opinion might be unpopular, but this really doesn't matter too much for me, but that might have to do with the things I throw on the water. Lower gear ratios will bring in less line per handle rotation(the spool diameter and depth also factors in, but only slightly), so if you need to burn something out on the water, a high gear ratio like 8:1 or 9:1 would require less work. The same goes for punching around specific pieces of structure or using a frog, where the sweet spot can be relatively small, and you reel in to recast often.
Once you've figured out what you need, technically speaking, everything else is subjective. If you like the looks of one reel over another at the same price, and there's a difference of 2 bearings, who cares? Buy the one you want -- you can always buy bearings for a few bucks later. If you see a huge sale on a reel that fits the criteria above, get it. If you want to go all out on something exotic(JDM, DC, Steez), no one's stopping you. In most(if not all) relevant metrics, these reels will be better than a Curado K or a Fuego/Tatula CT, but there's no real barrier of entry. You won't be able to cast light lures on a Curado K as far as you'd be able to with an Aldebaran, but it won't be like fishing with a soda bottle.
I won't keep rambling on for much longer because this post is comically long already, but I'll end with this. Decide what you're going to be fishing for, and what you're going to be using. If you're fishing for something big or with sharp teeth, size up on the rod and use abrasion resistant line. If you're in some finesse application looking for panfish or some kind of skittish game fish, get an appropriately light rod, a reel with a light spool, and thin fishing line. If you're going to be throwing heavy swimbaits, get a heavy rod that to accommodate. However, if you want to cover most of your bases in a single setup, grab a durable reel like the Fuego CT(better deal than the Tatula CT, period, with the exception of the T-Wing's advantages which I mentioned above) in the 7.3:1 gear ratio, and a MH rod around 7'. My next purchase would be a M/MF rod and the same reel in 6.3:1 for treble hook applications, and then I'd go with a H rod with the same reel in 8.1:1 for frogs and heavy punching. Those three setups will cover nearly everything from weightless senkos, to crankbaits, topwater, flipping and pitching, even swimbaits. Rod length as it relates to action and power, is something that I don't know a lot about, but generally speaking, longer rods will be able to cast further and in some cases, handle heavier baits better(everything else being equal).
EDIT: It took me an hour to write all of this and there have been more replies. Regarding the Curado, it is the de facto workhorse reel. It's a fantastic reel in general, and it is undeniably better than a Tatula CT. Whether or not the differences are worth the extra money spent is going to be up to you -- how much money you want to spend, how much the "feel" matters to you, etc. I'd personally rather spend less money and get the Fuego(think of it as the Tatula without the T-Wing), because I don't care too much about the Micro Module gears, and the Magforce Z braking system is just as good as the SVS(if not better, which can be argued). Still though, I would use a Curado without a second thought.
custer reply :
You don't buy a car without driving it.
Many areas have fishing clubs with many members who would love to let you toss their combos and teach you the terms (seems like every interest has its own language) and be very patient doing it.
Shows are also good places to research and learn.
The internet is nice, but I want to touch and use before I invest.
Angry John reply :
Read threw way to much of this. The solution is oh to simple. Tackle warehouse let's you try reels and then return them. Select a few and try them out. First one works out your done. Dont like it try another. Coat you a few dollars in shipping but saves you a pile.
https://www.tacklewarehouse.com/demoprogram.html
diehardbassfishing reply :
I'm totally thrilled by the passion I see coming out in this thread!
Two things ring out for me as I digest the out-pouring of assistance:
1) We have to be careful of - "Can't see the forest because of the trees." It's too easy to put equipment on par - or more important - than the best part of fishing. The skill of tricking a bass into taking an artificial bait. This is the #1 pursuit; and much more challenging than rod/reel choice.
2) I'm guessing most of us experienced bass fishermen have started with very humble equipment, and worked our way up. That process is a growing experience, and is best left to evolve on its own. This part 2 is meant for the person receiving advice. Don't get too hung up on buying or doing things from 100% recommendation. Experiment and enjoy the process of bumping and going on your own gut feeling. You'll very quickly find what is best for you. Ok, in context of this thread - hopefully without wasting a ton of money. But bass fishing - by nature - is a sport based much on experimentation, and enjoying the growth process.
Karl
fishnkamp reply :
l can tell you from experience I have fished with a bunch of gear over my 40 years of addiction. I was quite happy with my green Shimano Curados and BPS reels till a friend put a Daiwa Exceler (predecessor of a Fuego CT). I have since sold off 9 of my 12 baitcasting reels and have replaced them with 1 Exceler, and the rest with a few Tatula and Tatula Type Rs in different ratios, and some Tatula CTs. I have cast a friend's Shimano Curado K and would definitely not agree that it is hands down a better reel, at least not to me. Both cast well, but we both agreed the Daiwa outcast the Shimano using a very easy smooth casting action. I am not saying he could not cast as far, but it took more effort.
I am a big fan of the Daiwa Magforce Z brake system. Many times I have had members from this and 2 other boards come over my house and do some rod and reel casting instruction. Most that are not happy with their Daiwas when they get here are tickled when they leave. These reels need to be adjusted VERY different than any other reel I have ever cast.
Once these reels are setup properly the MagForce Z brake system can work like it is designed. Part of it sorta works like the governor on a lawn mower. The other part you dial in on the outside. I rarely have to readjust anything no matter what lure weights I change to. As for their durability. I fish the Chesapeake Bay tributaries. These are tidal rivers with bass, big blue cats and big stripers, oh and I can't forget now big snakeheads. These reels hold up to all of that and my use in partly salty water.
Watch these two videos. The first is a video showing how three different Daiwa brake systems work. The last one is a Magforce Z. The other video is from Brett Ehler and he is showing how to setup a Tatula SV TWS reel. All the Daiwas with Magforce Z brakes adjust the same. It is a set and forget reel in my experience. There are no side plates to remove and plastic pieces to push in or out like my old Curados or Chronarchs or dual brakes to mess with.
These reels are that simple to setup. Now I still use my educated thumb a bit more than he did in that demonstration but these reels just work. As for the question about the year model vs another. Forget about it. You decide if you can afford a Tatula CT or not. If you can, then go with a new Tatula CT. For all around use choose a 6.3-1 reel. For a more dedicated combo to throw top water, chatterbaits, buzzbaits etc then a 7.3-1. I personally choose an 8-1 only for a dedicated combo to fish frogs and to flip, pitch or punch. If this will be your only rig than choose between a 6.3 and a 7.3-1 ratio. No mistakes here. If the $130 price range is out of your budget then a Fuego CT is the reel for you. No shame either you are not "giving up" much at all. The overall performance will be very similar.
One more thing, let me address the nonsense on the T wing not passing a knot. I do use a leader attached to my braid often. I have no issues with my knots passing through the T wing system. First if I use a leader I do not fish with a leader longer than my rod. I usually fish a 5 foot leader or about as long as my wing span from one hand to the other with my arms spread out. This way my leader is plenty long enough, but not so long to get into my reel. Everyone of my reels has a mono backing and is attached to either fluorocarbon or braid using a uni to uni knot. If you are careful when tying that knot and be sure the wraps do not overlap each other then it will sail thru the T wing and micro guides. This has happened several times while hooked up with a big blue cats (my largest was 18 pounds) or one of the 30 inch stripers available here. I hope that helps explain these reels better without all the hype.
burrows reply :
On 7/26/2018 at 2:18 AM, TylerT123 said:I was thinking Ritalin?
Maybe Thorazine?
Spankey reply :
Great threads, great post. A lot of good info on this one. I really think you are taking it way too deep. Your making a mountain out of a mole hill. Opinions are great but you need to throw it all out and go with your gut for your situation.
I'll agree 100% to buy quality gear because it will last longer. But use still have to take care of it and service it once and a while.
Personally I believe you will made out ok if you think it out for yourself. A lot of opinions will not do you much better than where you are at now.
TOXIC reply :
Patience Grasshoppa!! Half the fun is getting there. As a guide, my advice is to start off simple and given time you will absorb the subtle differences in gear and manufacturers. Because so many here are serious hobbyists they have gone deep into the weeds on gear/baits/applications and many of us have been fishing a long, long time. Pick a price point for rods, pick a price point for reels and do some simple comparisons.....Left or right handed, gear ratio, spool size. Keeping in mind it may not be your last purchase. You are not going to get the best right out of the box because the best for you may not be the best for me. As for rods, at your price point get rods built for the application you want to use them for. Many are labeled with the application....crankin stick, topwater, worm, punching rod, spinnerbait rod etc. Once you use them you will understand better why they are labeled the way they are. As your needs get refined and your understanding gets better, it will all clear up. It's like putting your toe in the water rather than just diving in. You can sell your used gear and step up if need be. Everyone has their own reasons for having their favorite gear but none of that applies to you. Forge your own path and enjoy the journey.
PAbasser927 reply :
On 7/26/2018 at 3:25 PM, fishnkamp said:Everyone of my reels has a mono backing and is attached to either fluorocarbon or braid using a uni to uni knot. If you are careful when tying that knot and be sure the wraps do not overlap each other then it will sail thru the T wing and micro guides.
I have occasionally gotten down to my mono backing on long casts when my spool is low. I have not had a problem passing this connection knot (also uni to uni) either since my mono backing is generally 8-10lb test. When it comes to leaders, I have never had a problem when casting, only when retrieving. When casting, the T wing is open and there is more than enough space to pass any connection knot. However, when retrieving and the T wing is closed, I have had issues passing a leader knot with 50lb braid to a 15-20lb fluoro leader. I like to use a slim beauty knot because it points both the tag ends toward the main line which essentially eliminates the possibility of a hang up in the guides when casting. Maybe this same reasoning is why it gets hung in the T wing on the way back in, but I have not had the knot hang in any other reel. I had the same problem with the FG knot (supposedly the thinnests knot) prior the learning the slim beauty. Worth considering for someone in the market for a reel that is interested in running long leaders.
BassWhole! reply :
On 7/26/2018 at 2:01 AM, TotalNoob said:I haven't been on this forum for very long but I've been spending a lot of time reading through a lot of threads, old and new. I came here looking for answers and often find myself more lost after reading through the information I find.
This post is essentially a cry for help. Too much of my time and too much money (for me) is being spent researching endless products until I'm blue in the face and on purchases I'm not confident in. This circle of confusion has to stop because I'm not even sure how much I enjoy actual fishing anymore. I want to be better, I am getting better, I want to take logical next steps but it is very difficult in the information overload world we live in now.
I'm just flat STUNNED at how complex and overwhelming all the options are. I feel like I'm probably in the majority of folks who either recently started fishing semi-seriously or got back into fishing (I'm the latter) and have been 1) completely overwhelmed at the options on the market and 2) confused as to what all these different options are, what their best applications are, and what actual properties separate one product from a comparable product. Easy game if you've been in it for years, beyond overwhelming if you haven't.
For example, here's a post from an April thread that I recently found while researching - hopefully this can help make clear where my "beginner" confusion is:
Thread Title: Daiwa Fuego ct vs shimano caenan
Response: "Between the caenan and fuego specifically I'd have to go fuego. It's feature limited compared to the tatula but those magforce Z brakes are hard to beat."
My thought process is a common one: I want to get a quality reel that doesn't break the bank that simultaneously has some lasting power/durability. There are apparently multiples of these "lower" tier options on the market (what a shock).
Based on what I've read on this forum, the Daiwa Fuego CT seems to be a good choice (I'm DEFINITELY not trying to start a debate here) but how can I understand WHY?
In that above response, it's noted that the Fuego CT is "feature limited". Okay, I like that, some honest thoughts on a product (vs all the crap Youtube vids with affiliate links etc). But what does "feature limited" mean exactly? What features are missing? So I research further...
Among the many threads I locate is this thread from Nov '17 (Titled: Fuego CT vs Tatula CT) with the following response: "Have both. No performance difference, but they do look a bit different As far as colors and finish goes. Either is a great choice. If you can swing the extra 30 bucks I say tatula."
If there is no performance difference and COLOR is the most notable difference between them, why would you recommend spending the extra $30 for the Tatula? Feels like there has to be a better reason this individual would recommend spending the extra $30. And by the way, what the heck does "CT" and "XT" and "Type R" stand for? Are we buying cars here?
The worst part for me is, that particular thread ends with the OP (who asked the initial question) posting literally: "Found a better deal and got a Gen 4 Revo Sx for $75."
Boom. Thread ends. And so now I start to look up this Gen 4 Revo Sx to try to understand IT'S characteristics last night (how is it different/better, is it more durable, etc) but fall asleep on the couch with laptop in lap and 13 tabs open in my browser when I wake up.
Okay now, having said ALL that, I do feel like I'm gradually understanding some of the nuances better (more so on the rods than reels) BUT there absolutely has to be a better way to learn these things without breaking the bank in the process and being left with tackle I may or may not ever use. I, like many others probably, just want to make good, informed decisions and feel confident about them.
Specifically, I ordered two rods a few days ago - One rod is an Okuma 6'8" MMF "Topwater/Jerkbait" (obvious purposes, mostly topwater though and possibly lighter jerks) and one is a 6'9" MH/F Abu Garcia Veritas that I hopeto use to throw heavier jerkbaits in the Spring and Fall. This Spring I learned from many a night fishing under moons that jerkbaits work very well in my fishery which contains all three Black Bass, Walleye, and some Wiper.
Anyway, I saved about $40 bucks total on these two rods using a 20% ebay coupon, so I spent $141 total for the two rods. I feel like that's a good deal, I'm very hopeful the rods work out for the purposes stated, I guess only time will tell. Now, I naturally need reels for these rods... so the research begins again.
Those above threads I referenced (and many others I didn't) ARE generally helpful, please don't misunderstand. But is it easy to see how I still walk away from them scratching my head? I'm often times left more confused than when I started. Just when I thought I was starting to "figure out" rod selection, now I'm stuck in a rut trying to find reels that aren't crap but aren't expensive (not that I would know the differences anyway).
Where is the clarity? The fishing market must be absolutely killing it in profits, driven by: 1) The endless supply of vague information out there leading to confusion and resulting in misguided purchases by amateur anglers and, to some degree, 2) The more I read it's beginning to seem like some folks are closer to being "collectors" than actual fisherman - or most likely a combination of the two.
What rabbit hole have I gone down and more importantly WHERE CAN I FIND CLARITY TO GET OUT? You'd think that for ALL the d**n youtube channels, forums, and marketing outlets that some good soul out there would have created a simple to follow Chart or Buying Guide for which reels match best with which techniques and which types of lines etc etc etc - and most importantly: WHY. Amateurs need to be able to connect the dots in this insane market where there's 10 products for every application.
How about some kind of unbiased site where a fresh-faced angler (regardless of age... young, old, or exactly 36 .. you know, whatever) inputs certain general and specific criteria related to their fishery (target species), whether they fish from boat or shore, their experience level, budget, etc etc - then it spits out various information based on known techniques for targeted species, rod/reel/line options, and, most importantly, EXPLANATIONS ABOUT WHY EXACTLY THESE POTENTIAL PURCHASES ARE GOOD AND WHAT DISTINGUISHES THEM FROM COMPARABLE PRODUCTS.
I understand this thread might seem silly to some - and definitely long to everyone. I know I'll be getting responses ranging the spectrum like "just find a fishing style you like and stick with it", "don't go crazy on tackle, just enjoy fishing and forget about all the hype", "check out such-and-such thread for buying guides" (btw I feel like these lack too much info, especially for reels).
When you have been in the game for a long time and have an understanding of products and their specific functions, a door is naturally opened for higher levels of debate with your peers regarding specific products - as it should be. But what does one do who doesn't have all this experience and already recognizes the rabbit hole he has begun to go down, lacking the level of comfort and clarity in purchasing decisions?
I feel like at some point I can definitely be at the level where I can distinguish the nuances in products and make good decisions... There just has to be a clearer, more reasonable way for amateurs to navigate this bloated fishing market we live in now so as to not go broke or crazy in the process. I don't have thousands to spend without consequence and I would like to know I'm purchasing products that will get the job done and provide a good level of durability. Is that really too much to ask?
Wow! That's got to be the longest post/rant thing here, no?
OK here is the answer; STOP READING. You (as do most younger folks these days) have a good cognitive understanding of the situation, and yet seem to lack the ability to translate that into an effective plan for the task at hand. Assuming you have a rod and reel and some lures now, use that as the starting point (what else could one do). When you go fishing ask your self these simple questions based on YOUR (at this time not extensive) fishing experience:
-What do I like about this [fill in any rod, reel, line, lure etc that may apply]
-What don't I like about this ......?
-What would make this ... better?
Then make your tackle choice accordingly, then your equipment will by evolution not only be well suited to the way YOU fish, but will continue to over time as your experience increases make those decisions more efficient and focused. Now if you want the "perfect" combo today, I can't help, (nor can anyone else) YMMV (but it won't)
TotalNoob reply :
Good stuff here, just what I needed honestly. Feeling a lot better today and definitely less frustrated.
Fascinating stuff on the braking system on the Tatula/Fuego. Given my still proneness to backlashing (when I'm feeling like I can back it off just a bit), I feel like I'm pretty well sold on the magforce z system (for now).
Troubled by the Twing comments. I do know that for some early season/clear water applications I will need my junction knot (FG) down in the spool and the mere thought of not being able to cast/retrieve completely uninhibited is as much a turnoff as the magforce z brakes are a turn-on.
Currently I'm running 30lb braid to 10-15lb fluoro or mono (which sounds like it would pass) but I don't know what applications I might incorporate in the future. Honestly, the Twing thing kind of has me leaning in the other price point direction toward the Fuego CT, though it seems like the Tatula is possibly a little more durable which is important to me. I'm definitely in the camp of spending a little more in the short run for the long run payoff (hence the initial curado K purchase). I'll be thinking about this trade-off as I await the next ebay coupon code.
In regards to the Curado K I purchased, it came from what seems to be reputable seller on ebay, American legacy fishing. I did check the box and reel upon arrival (as I check everything arriving from amazon and ebay these days) for signs of prior use/opening but if there were any they slipped past me. When I finally clearly identified the spool pile-up issue it was a month too late for return. I was still acclimating to a baitcaster at the time and was largely more comfortable throwing on my spinning gear while the bite was hot in the Spring.
The seller pointed me toward Shimano directly. I called them and there is a form online I can fill out and send in to them with the reel. I assume this is manufacturer defect - I am quite careful and particular with my gear. When researching this issue I found buried deep within the comments on a youtube vid about "how to spool line on a baitcaster ... yada yada yada" someone commented that their line piled up to the right on their new curado K. Their description is identical to my experience.
Can anyone provide any insight into their experience with sending in their reel to Shimano? Would this be the recommended route in this situation?
Team9nine reply :
Couldn't tell from OP thread if new, refurbished, or used, but can say American Legacy is a rock solid dealer/shop. They wouldn't sell anything that was knowingly wrong. Hope you get it worked out...Curados really are solid reels. If you ever do decide to part with it, you'll have no problems selling it.
burrows reply :
You could definitely sell the k easily on eBay. Easily !
MisterDeadeye reply :
On 7/27/2018 at 3:08 AM, TotalNoob said:Good stuff here, just what I needed honestly. Feeling a lot better today and definitely less frustrated.
Fascinating stuff on the braking system on the Tatula/Fuego. Given my still proneness to backlashing (when I'm feeling like I can back it off just a bit), I feel like I'm pretty well sold on the magforce z system (for now).
Troubled by the Twing comments. I do know that for some early season/clear water applications I will need my junction knot (FG) down in the spool and the mere thought of not being able to cast/retrieve completely uninhibited is as much a turnoff as the magforce z brakes are a turn-on.
Sent you a PM.
Chris at Tech reply :
First off, the easiest question to knock off. Yes, send your Curado to Shimano or another reputable reel service for service.
Dude -- I think you're REALLY REALLY overthinking all this...
Treat it like mattress shopping. You can attempt to compare all the different Sealy mattresses to the Sertas but at the end of the day you pick the one that feels best when you lay down on it. Do the same for your reel. Go into Bass Pro, Cabelas, or some other retailer that has a decent selection and just see how they feel in hand, how they feel mounted on a rod. As long as you're purchasing one from one of the well-known brands, you'll be just fine.
Then LEARN your reel. Play with the settings. Cast lures of different weights. If you're prone to back-lashing, put a 2-in strip of electrical tape of 35-40 yards deep in the spool -- that'll contain backlashes better than any braking system. Being comfortable with your reel will serve you better than chasing the specs of all the reels you don't have.
If you're looking for a magic formula on how to choose a reel based on max drag, number of bearings, funny marketing terms (Hagane? Magforce Z? T-wing Blah blah blah), reel weight or some other specs then you're never going to actually fish since you'll continue to be stuck in the infinite loop of paralysis by analysis. "Feature limited"??? Are you concerned you're not gonna get the satellite radio or the cooling seats? 
It's a fishing reel -- it casts a lure out and retrieves it. Let's not over complicate things.
There are definitely some general guidelines to follow depending on the type of fishing you want to do, but besides that don't get into the minutiae. For example, if you want a "general" combo you'll want to look at something that's 6'6" - 7', M or MH power and a reel with a 6:1 ratio.
Why are people on the internet recommending reel X over reel Y? Because they like it -- period. Very few online sources will provide any information or analysis based on anything other than their experience using something. (If you're really curious to see a *REAL* breakdown of feature comparison and some good evidence about why reel X is better than reel Y, then check out http://www.alanhawk.com/). The vast majority of everything else is lip service based solely on whether the "reviewer" liked the reel or not.
BassWhole! reply :
On 7/27/2018 at 6:24 AM, Chris at Tech said:
Treat it like mattress shopping. You can attempt to compare all the different Sealy mattresses to the Sertas but at the end of the day you pick the one that feels best when you lay down on it.
LOL. One of our salt water fishing buddies was a mattress guy, and would tell us about the industry. This is before space foam, and number dialing, and all the new glitz, but there were only 3 main models in 4 sizes with different covers, that they would rebrand for different retailers and department stores, so the mattress you bought from Macy's was the same as the one you didn't quite love at the mattress store with a different tag on it (that you would go to jail if you removed)...
fishwizzard reply :
On 7/27/2018 at 7:41 AM, reason said:but there were only 3 main models in 4 sizes with different covers, that they would rebrand for different retailers and department stores, so the mattress you bought from Macy's was the same as the one you didn't quite love at the mattress store with a different tag on it (that you would go to jail if you removed)...
I listen to old radio dramas and this was a plot point in one of them, so the industry has been like that for a while.
LCG reply :
It is simple or as complicated as you want it to be. If you want to keep it simple, here is my advice, take it for what's its worth.
Spinning rod, 6'6"-7'6" (personal preference), medium power, fast action.
Baitcasting rod, 6'6" - 7'6",medium heavy power, fast action.
Rod brands are a personal preference as are reels. For rods I like st Croix. For reels I like Pflueger president xt spinning reels size 30 and Daiwa fuego ct baitcasting reels. Both are bang for your buck, durable, quality reels that will do you well and last a long time.
Buy what feels right to you. Think of it like shopping for a car. Lots of models with a ton of little differences. Huge range in price and quality.
BassWhole! reply :
On 7/27/2018 at 7:42 AM, fishwizzard said:I listen to old radio dramas
What stylus on your turntable?...
KastKingUSA reply :
On 7/26/2018 at 9:17 AM, MisterDeadeye said:Beyond that, there are companies like KastKing and Piscifun. They're targeting the absolute entry-level market, using cheap Chinese parts/labor(it's just a fact, I'm not hating). They typically have bearings everywhere, carbon drag washers, some have carbon fiber handles, waffled spools, and slick paint jobs.
Stay tuned...we have some big plans for serious anglers of ALL levels.
Hulkster reply :
for what its worth, I think the last few years worth of shimano spinning reels (with the propulsion management system) cast better and have no line twist relative to other spinning reels I've tried.
Buffdaddy54 reply :
Checkout TackleTours review of the Fuego CT
fishwizzard reply :
On 7/27/2018 at 7:26 PM, reason said:What stylus on your turntable?...
Turntable? A true enthusiast prefers wax cylinders.
NYWayfarer reply :
On 7/27/2018 at 6:24 AM, Chris at Tech said:Dude -- I think you're REALLY REALLY overthinking all this...
I agree.
One of Nike's slogans is: "Just do it" That's my advice Just buy a reel that has a lot of great reviews here and other places and you should be fine.
Everyone gets a lemon now and then, that's what returns and warranties are for.
MisterDeadeye reply :
On 7/27/2018 at 9:02 PM, KastKingUSA said:Stay tuned...we have some big plans for serious anglers of ALL levels.
That's good to hear! Like I said originally, I wasn't trying to say that KastKing stuff is garbage, it's just inexpensive because of where it's made, and there's not quite as much care taken(in China, generally speaking) on the very base level of the people putting the reels together, as you'd see in Malaysia or a European country for example.
Your reels seem great. They're light, they have similar features to other big name reels on the market, the aesthetics are great(the Assassin is my favorite)... I'd already have one or two of your reels, baitcasting and spinning, if it wasn't for the reputation of Chinese manufacturing, and the anecdotes I've seen from various people with issues out of the box.
It's not a knock on your company at all, and I'm interested in what you guys come up with next.
TotalNoob reply :
On 7/27/2018 at 10:07 PM, Buffdaddy54 said:Checkout TackleTours review of the Fuego CT
http://www.tackletour.com/reviewdaiwafuegoct.html
I just read that, thank you. Don't want to get ahead of myself but a cursory view of that site seems like it could be a good source of unbiased (or largely unbiased) reviews. I make this statement in contrast to the countless youtube channels and articles out there with the sole intent of just mindlessly pushing you toward putting the item in your cart.
The review process was structured and rated in several metrics yet simultaneously easy to follow and understand. Thanks for showing me that site. As an amateur angler trying to navigate the marketplace I very much appreciate that kind of information.
new2BC4bass reply :
I have to agree with fishnkamp. I seldom have to touch the settings on my Daiwas. My 50th Anniversary Zillion is as set-and-forget as my Chronarch 100B. Only when I get into casting the light stuff do I have to make adjustments to my Daiwas. Personally I do better with my TD-Z 105Hs than my Curado 51Es when it comes to light lures.
Daiwa T3 reels with Magforce 3D and reels with an SV spool are all pretty much set-and-forget even for a beginner. Except for the occasional odd ball. My first SV reel was an excellent backlasher until sent out for tuning.
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