Rod Or Reel? 2024
zwhiten12 reply :
I know the whole setup is important, but should you invest more in the rod or more in the reel? Thanks y'all!
Darren. reply :
This has been hashed out a lot. I like a good reel with a good drag system, good gears. It'll last a long time.
Same could be said of a good rod. I give the nod to the reel. I think.
LgMouthGambler reply :
My median is $200 for a reel, $100 for a rod. With that being said, even the rods in the $50-75 are great.
Dwight Hottle reply :
Most guys go 2 /3 on the reel & 1/3 on the rod. On better combos I like to go 50/50. A good reel deserves a good rod.
zwhiten12 reply :
On 2/9/2013 at 9:49 AM, LgMouthGambler said:My median is $200 for a reel, $100 for a rod. With that being said, even the rods in the $50-75 are great.
What sets those 150+ rods apart from the 50-75 dollar rods? Thanks!
Teal reply :
Darren is right, it is very debatable. But my opinion is to buy a quality reel and then buy the best rod that fits the remaining budget. I want a reel made with quality components that will last a long time with proper care. Reels have alot of moving parts and ive been on the losing end of trying to save money by spending less on reel to 'get me by'
Teal reply :
On 2/9/2013 at 9:54 AM, zwhiten12 said:What sets those 150+ rods apart from the 50-75 dollar rods? Thanks!
The weight of the rod, better blanks, better guides.
zwhiten12 reply :
On 2/9/2013 at 9:57 AM, Teal said:Darren is right, it is very debatable. But my opinion is to buy a quality reel and then buy the best rod that fits the remaining budget. I want a reel made with quality components that will last a long time with proper care. Reels have alot of moving parts and ive been on the losing end of trying to save money by spending less on reel to 'get me by'
That's exactly how I feel, i feel like I just need to spend the minimal amount to get by, but I don't want to regret it later...
Southfork reply :
I'm the opposite of the majority here.
I spend a lot more on rods than reels. The way I look at it, I'm buying that rod for life, all my rods have lifetime warranties.
I've been spending more on reels lately, but I'm much more comfortable putting down a lot of cash on something with a little piece of mind.
I do have one exception tough, and that's my catfishing rods. I spend way more on the reels than I do rods there.
Rangerphil reply :
I think it depends on what technique you are doing. A great rod will change your fishing forever!
retiredbosn reply :
I agree with ranger, bottom contact presentations demand the best rod, reaction presentations demand more from the reel. My set-ups are evolving, my crankbait rod cost 59 the reel 200, bottom contact a 100 reel on a 150 rod.
QUAKEnSHAKE reply :
On 2/9/2013 at 9:54 AM, zwhiten12 said:What sets those 150+ rods apart from the 50-75 dollar rods? Thanks!
Given a specific budget I would give more money towards the rod.
I have rods from $30Ugly Stiks, $50 BPS, $70 Clarus, $100 Premiers then mid $150 Smoke, Avid, LTB, then my highest-end rod a St Croix Elite will use any side by side on a given day.
A couple things that I find with the mid to higher is you get a better sense of what the lure is doing on the bottom. I form like a picture veiw in my mind due to the added sensitivity of a rod like a senko amongst the weeds or rocks. I can feel the wiggle of the senko as I twitch it, as it just tip overtop a rock or falls out of a weed I dont get this with my under $100 rods.
With moving baits you feel a difference in the crank even with the slightest bit of moss/weed gets in the hooks and changes the retrieve action of lure. If you are on top of or in the weeds the feel is better once again can sort of form a picture of the lure in those weeds.
The best benefit, that I dont see mentioned much, is the fight with better rods. I get much more feedback and enjoyment of what the fish is doing, where its heading or direction its going like if its coming up to jump, nose down headed for cover. I can feel it rolling(catfish) can feel bass its body wiggling flexing substantially more vearing left to right. Just the fish's power is transmitted at a higher degree making the fight all that much better.
This is my view on what a person gets out of better rods. I wouldnt say they are needed just something different that adds to the hobby of fishing.
jignfule reply :
I lean towards putting the $$$$$$ on the rod and I fish with Calais and Sustains
zwhiten12 reply :
On 2/9/2013 at 11:31 AM, QUAKEnSHAKE said:Given a specific budget...I want to buy a nicer rod, but I just can't get the thought of somehow breaking the rod and being out that much money where as if I bought a cheaper rod it wouldn't be as big of a deal.
Darren. reply :
On 2/9/2013 at 11:31 AM, QUAKEnSHAKE said:Given a specific budget I would give more money towards the rod.
I have rods from $30Ugly Stiks, $50 BPS, $70 Clarus, $100 Premiers then mid $150 Smoke, Avid, LTB, then my highest-end rod a St Croix Elite will use any side by side on a given day.
A couple things that I find with the mid to higher is you get a better sense of what the lure is doing on the bottom. I form like a picture veiw in my mind due to the added sensitivity of a rod like a senko amongst the weeds or rocks. I can feel the wiggle of the senko as I twitch it, as it just tip overtop a rock or falls out of a weed I dont get this with my under $100 rods.
With moving baits you feel a difference in the crank even with the slightest bit of moss/weed gets in the hooks and changes the retrieve action of lure. If you are on top of or in the weeds the feel is better once again can sort of form a picture of the lure in those weeds.
The best benefit, that I dont see mentioned much, is the fight with better rods. I get much more feedback and enjoyment of what the fish is doing, where its heading or direction its going like if its coming up to jump, nose down headed for cover. I can feel it rolling(catfish) can feel bass its body wiggling flexing substantially more vearing left to right. Just the fish's power is transmitted at a higher degree making the fight all that much better.
This is my view on what a person gets out of better rods. I wouldnt say they are needed just something different that adds to the hobby of fishing.
I can certainly appreciate where you are coming from. That's a good breakdown. While I stated reel as my pref, I don't discount the importance of the rod. I also have Ugly Stiks to Compres and now a Premier. There's a pretty big difference in feel there which plays a big part in fishing vs catching.
Teal reply :
Most of your nicer rods have good warranties or lifetime warranties.
zwhiten12 reply :
On 2/9/2013 at 11:55 AM, Teal said:Most of your nicer rods have good warranties or lifetime warranties.
That's a good point! Thanks!!
Arv reply :
150 - 200 on a rod, 100 - 150 on a reel. If I had the money, I'd be throwing out 4-500 on a rod. I think its the most important. But don't forget quality line as well.
QUAKEnSHAKE reply :
On 2/9/2013 at 11:50 AM, zwhiten12 said:On 2/9/2013 at 11:31 AM, QUAKEnSHAKE said:Given a specific budget...I want to buy a nicer rod, but I just can't get the thought of somehow breaking the rod and being out that much money where as if I bought a cheaper rod it wouldn't be as big of a deal.
Certainly understandable.
Buy from well respected companies and know their policies.
One like Shimano that has over-the-counter Lifetime warranty. Even with that there can be certain stores that wont take them after certain time. You need to ask store of purchase how they will take care of issue.
Most have a charge depending on company for warranty claims for Lifetime rods.
I unfortunately have used St Croix warranty twice. Sent broken rod(my fault) in and $20 and they took care of me.
kickerfish1 reply :
Typically for me $100-$500 for the reel and $150-$300 on the rod. I generally spend equal on both equal on both although I have a few higher end reels I have invested more in. Typically bottom contact rods are likely going to see more cash thrown at them compared to cranking, topwater, jerkbait, and spinnerbait rods.
With gear in this range I am getting longevity, lighter weight outfits, lifetime warranties on the rods, and pretty good sensitivity not to mention smooth reels with good casting distance and drags. To me I don't like to cheap out on anything, as when I have in the past, I just don't get many years out of the product despite good care and maintenance.
38 Super Fan reply :
About 50/50 for me, but on my spinning setups I'll go with a less expensive reel, I feel like I can get away with a good spinning reel for about half of what I'll pay for a casting reel.
SirSnookalot reply :
It's all about the fish! There a various schools of thought and numerous articles about what's most important. More expensive rods may be lighter and to some that's important, do they really cast farther, more sensitive and handle bigger fish? I'm sure some will say yes, I would too just to justify spending $300, in reality I say no. Same for reels, does my stradic really handle a 8# bass any better than my $30 reel in a bubble wrap with the handle sticking out, to justify it to myself yes, in reality no.
I don't mind spending a significant amount money for larger harder fighting fish. A good fisherman I may be not, but certainly not out of my mind, $300 reel and $300 rod to catch fish that average a few pounds at best and a few that might go 10+.
LgMouthGambler reply :
On 2/9/2013 at 9:54 AM, zwhiten12 said:What sets those 150+ rods apart from the 50-75 dollar rods? Thanks!
As Teal stated, better blanks and guides. With that said, I can tell you that I could fish just about any presentation with no problems using a Berkley Lightning Shock rod. I can say that because I have done it for a long time, I had to give them up due to the cork, it just gives me the heebies when I touch it now for some reason. I had no problem mounting a Curado or Chronarch on one and throwing jigs or any bottom contact bait. I could feel everything, but it wont slap you in the face the way a $200 rod will Im sure. I have found that I can feel everything just fine with a $100 Shimano Compre, and dont need to go any higher than that for a rod. My theory is that a reel is going to take a beating, and is going to be the machine behind job. If you want a good machine to perform flawless, your gonna need to spend some $. $150-200 is expected for a good reel. Now dont get me wrong, the PQ is a great reel for $90, but it aint no Revo S, Curado, or Chronarch. As for the rod, well lets just say you can slam it in a car door and its all over with, lol.
ww2farmer reply :
I generally spend more on rods than reels.
DaveT63 reply :
On 2/9/2013 at 11:50 AM, zwhiten12 said:On 2/9/2013 at 11:31 AM, QUAKEnSHAKE said:Given a specific budget...I want to buy a nicer rod, but I just can't get the thought of somehow breaking the rod and being out that much money where as if I bought a cheaper rod it wouldn't be as big of a deal.The higher end rods most all come with some sort of lifetime warranty. So if it breaks, you aren't out all that money. That helps make the higher price easier to justify for many people.
Toeshots reply :
Depends what you are doing with it. I just stocked up this winter and for bottom contact techniques, I bought $200 rods which will be paired with reels of the same value. Crankbait rod was around $100 but reel will be more.
jerzeeD reply :
Usually I spend more on the rod.... But I have some combos that are close to 50/50. I have a St Croix LTB with a Pflueger Patriarch and a Fenwick HMG with a Pflueger supreme...Both of those are close to 50/50, with the rods still both being slightly more. Then I have a St croix premier with a Pflueger Medalist and a St Croix Avid with a Pflueger Purist. Both of those set-ups are a little more lopsided toward the rods. With baitcasting setups, you are going to spend more $ on quality reels than you have to with spinning gear. That is probably why my rods are more than my reels, too.
.ghoti. reply :
I recently updated my rod/reel spreadsheet for the insurance company. On average, my casting combos tilt toward the reel; with reels about 50 percent more than the rods. My spinning combos tilt the other way; with the rods being about two and half times what the reels cost. Those are average values. Individual combos are all across the spread.
Worst case one way: my jig rig, a Daiwa Light & Tough rod at $140, paired with a JDM Zillion, about three times that.
Worst case the other way: Steez spinning rod, msrp around $500, paired with a $150 Pflueger Supreme XT.
Right in the middle; a GLX with an R Edition Alphas, about even money for each.
I don't pair up my combos based on price, but on weight and power. Trying to color coordinate isn't even given a thought.
lmbfisherman reply :
I've always leaned towards the reel. Not that I have yet to buy a very high end reel yet, I usually buy Shimano (Curado/Citica), I did however pick up a very good deal on used St Croix Avids (2 Baitcaster and 1 Spinning). After using these, it has started to change my mind and am thinking of putting more money into rods and possibly making it at least 50/50.
roadwarrior reply :
On 2/10/2013 at 5:50 AM, .ghoti. said:I don't pair up my combos based on price, but on weight and power. Trying to color coordinate isn't even given a thought.
WHAT?
Gotta have the bling-bling!
.ghoti. reply :
On 2/10/2013 at 7:59 AM, roadwarrior said:WHAT?
Gotta have the bling-bling!
Being color-blind does have it's advantages. LOL!
Big Bassman reply :
I spend a little more on the reels because they WILL last me for a very long time if not forever, while I do break a rod once and awhile and don't believe anyone will give me a replacement rod at a total n/c if I have used it for awhile? This is a personal choice question.
What a great post/topic. Everyones opinions are not only fasinating but right on. This site is loaded with quality fishermen that know their sport and how to share this knowledge with other members. This place is a gold mine, all the way down to "bling-bling"!
zwhiten12 reply :
Thanks for all of the help yall!
Felix77 reply :
It's like a good marriage ... They must work together. It doesn't matter if you spend more or less on either part as long as they work together.
I have reels that are more expensive than the rod and visa versa. The challenge is matching them up to suit your needs.
Jake Coucoules reply :
I think if its a jig/worm rod were you really need that extra sensitivity go with the extra money on the rod. If its a moving bait get a better reel so you can cover water easier.
lmbfisherman reply :
On 2/10/2013 at 8:56 AM, .ghoti. said:Being color-blind does have it's advantages. LOL!
You too? I have a minor issue, reddish tinge colors usually give me the worst problems. Not total color blind, but enough to get noticed when I say, nice pink shirt? and they go huh!
papajoe222 reply :
On 2/9/2013 at 11:50 AM, zwhiten12 said:On 2/9/2013 at 11:31 AM, QUAKEnSHAKE said:Given a specific budget...I want to buy a nicer rod, but I just can't get the thought of somehow breaking the rod and being out that much money where as if I bought a cheaper rod it wouldn't be as big of a deal.
You'll find that if you spend the extra cash for a 'nicer' rod, you'll be more carefull with it. That is, of course, if it's your money that you're using. The same goes for a reel. The more you spend, the more care you'll take of it when not in use.
thehooligan reply :
Im pretty 50/50 on my combos, and thats what i prefer. I was going to spring for a stella this year but went for the sustain. I really dont need a $500+ reel that ill always worry about getting scratched in the boat or kayak, or stolen. Im already paranoid about my sustain getting dropped or scratched, haha. Also it wouldnt match my cumulus anyway.
My cumulus/sustain combo is almost 50/50, a little more went to the rod.
My cumara/ci4 combo is 50/50
My phenix m1/ci4 combo is just about 50/50
My fenwick smallmouth/stradic fj combo went a little more to the reel.
Now i have a curado 51e, probally will go with another fenwick smallmouth rod or compre.
Im actually trying to build some low budget combos cause i fish with a buddy who has a really small boat, things get stepped on, pushed to the side, etc. Im always holding my rods for dear life, lol.
J Francho reply :
You can get a great rod for around $100-120 retail. "Great" reels don't really come into the picture until about the $200 mark. So, if you are on the low end, you'll probably spend more on the reel. On the high end, the rod.
trailer reply :
I feel like it depends on the style or presentation you are fishing. Whichever piece, either the rod or reel, in a given scenario that is more important should have the most money spent on it. If you see both components equally important then treat them equally. Usually if you're talking about "feeling" something I would think the rod is important. If you're talking about "seeing" something, such as topwater, I would think the rod is less important. A nice reel might keep you from cussing all day...
J Francho reply :
Why a rod is "less important" just because you don't need to feel the bite is beyond me. I hear that ALL THE TIME, and do not agree one bit. Remember, you use the rod to get the fish to the boat. It's important. Choose wisely. 
trailer reply :
On 2/12/2013 at 11:56 PM, J Francho said:Why a rod is "less important" just because you don't need to feel the bite is beyond me. I hear that ALL THE TIME, and do not agree one bit. Remember, you use the rod to get the fish to the boat. It's important. Choose wisely.
Ok, so what's the perfect combination?
roadwarrior reply :
On 2/13/2013 at 12:52 AM, trailer said:Ok, so what's the perfect combination?
G.Loomis IMX MBR844C/ Curado 200E7
Mid-range pricing, on sale, gently used or found in our Flea Market:
You may find them a little cheaper, but I paid around $125 apiece.
J Francho reply :
On 2/13/2013 at 12:52 AM, trailer said:Ok, so what's the perfect combination?
Depends on your style. If it's a topwater rod, then I want an extra
fast taper, with the power section spread across the rest of the blank.
Topwater rods are usually shorter, and I want to make the most of the
rod to cushion the fight and protect treble hooks from pulling out, but
enough power to pull a fish from weed cover. Definitely don't want a
jig and worm type rod. A short rear handle is nice too. I use an Avid
6-2 M/XF rod, AC62MXF. That's been the perfect rod for me. It's also
my jerkbait rod. It's very sensitive, and although traditionally
considered a "moving bait," jerkbaits often get bit on the pause where there is slack line, and sensitivity is a must.
That's just one example of a moving bait rod. I could go on about each type, but that's beyond the scope of the OP. I've commented on several different threads involving cranks, spoons, spinners, topwaters, etc. You might do a search, and find a bunch of info.
I think a lot of people are cheating themselves out
of some bites by not using a somewhat sensitive stick for moving baits.
I'm not saying you need a $400 rod for this, but consider a halfway
decent rod for this.
trailer reply :
On 2/13/2013 at 2:02 AM, J Francho said:Depends on your style. If it's a topwater rod, then I want an extra
fast taper, with the power section spread across the rest of the blank.
Topwater rods are usually shorter, and I want to make the most of the
rod to cushion the fight and protect treble hooks from pulling out, but
enough power to pull a fish from weed cover. Definitely don't want a
jig and worm type rod. A short rear handle is nice too. I use an Avid
6-2 M/XF rod, AC62MXF. That's been the perfect rod for me. It's also
my jerkbait rod. It's very sensitive, and although traditionally
considered a "moving bait," jerkbaits often get bit on the pause where there is slack line, and sensitivity is a must.
That's just one example of a moving bait rod. I could go on about each type, but that's beyond the scope of the OP. I've commented on several different threads involving cranks, spoons, spinners, topwaters, etc. You might do a search, and find a bunch of info.
I think a lot of people are cheating themselves out
of some bites by not using a somewhat sensitive stick for moving baits.
I'm not saying you need a $400 rod for this, but consider a halfway
decent rod for this.
Dang it! I just knew you were going to say a Zebco 33 Classic and an Ugly Stick with the glow tip. Shows what I know...
zwhiten12 reply :
On 2/13/2013 at 1:58 AM, roadwarrior said:G.Loomis IMX MBR844C/ Curado 200E7
Mid-range pricing, on sale, gently used or found in our Flea Market:
You may find them a little cheaper, but I paid around $125 apiece.
I've been looking at the revo s and the veritas.
Mike L reply :
On 2/13/2013 at 2:02 AM, J Francho said:Depends on your style. If it's a topwater rod, then I want an extra
fast taper, with the power section spread across the rest of the blank.
Topwater rods are usually shorter, and I want to make the most of the
rod to cushion the fight and protect treble hooks from pulling out, but
enough power to pull a fish from weed cover. Definitely don't want a
jig and worm type rod. A short rear handle is nice too. I use an Avid
6-2 M/XF rod, AC62MXF. That's been the perfect rod for me. It's also
my jerkbait rod. It's very sensitive, and although traditionally
considered a "moving bait," jerkbaits often get bit on the pause where there is slack line, and sensitivity is a must.
That's just one example of a moving bait rod. I could go on about each type, but that's beyond the scope of the OP. I've commented on several different threads involving cranks, spoons, spinners, topwaters, etc. You might do a search, and find a bunch of info.
I think a lot of people are cheating themselves out
of some bites by not using a somewhat sensitive stick for moving baits.
I'm not saying you need a $400 rod for this, but consider a halfway
decent rod for this.
J, question if I may...I don't own any XF action rod's, so bear with me....Useing an XF action rod "to protect the trebles from pulling out"
seems like a contradiction to me, unless I'm reading your intent wrong.
If you would please explain.
Thanks
Mike
J Francho reply :
On 2/13/2013 at 9:50 AM, Mike L said:J, question if I may...I don't own any XF action rod's, so bear with me....Useing an XF action rod "to protect the trebles from pulling out"
seems like a contradiction to me, unless I'm reading your intent wrong.
If you would please explain.
Thanks
Mike
I guess I glossed over that, and it does sound contradictory worded that way. What I mean, it's more about the type of power, further down from the tip. A medium power rod, where the load of a fish on is spread out across the entire blank will protect the trebles better than a MH. The XF tip just makes it easier to control the twitch. The rod "settles down" quicker on a faster taper.
J Francho reply :
On 2/13/2013 at 8:58 AM, trailer said:Dang it! I just knew you were going to say a Zebco 33 Classic and an Ugly Stick with the glow tip. Shows what I know...
Don't knock the 33, man!
Mike L reply :
On 2/13/2013 at 10:12 PM, J Francho said:I guess I glossed over that, and it does sound contradictory worded that way. What I mean, it's more about the type of power, further down from the tip. A medium power rod, where the load of a fish on is spread out across the entire blank will protect the trebles better than a MH. The XF tip just makes it easier to control the twitch. The rod "settles down" quicker on a faster taper.
Thanks J
Mike
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