Rod Or Reel, Where Should You Put Your Money? 2024
retiredbosn reply :
We get questions here all the time requesting info on this or that reel/rod. Got me to thinking, where should we be recommending new fishermen to spend the bulk of their money, on the rod or reel? I've seen ppl with a 150 reel on a 40 rod for a t-rig set up. To me this makes no sense! The opposite for a reaction setup (think crankbaits). Again where is the logic? For presentations that demand sensitivity on a budget, put the bulk of your money in the rod, get a quality reel of course. But having a Revo premiere or Chronarch on a Sellus or ugly stick and thinking you have the most sensitive setup is silly. Equally out of balance set ups would be a high graphite costly rod with a plastic reel for crankin. When buying a set up put some thought into what its purpose is, if you need sensitivity then more money goes toward the rod. What are your thoughts on this?
Arv reply :
Most of my set ups are about equal in price with a slight advantage to the rods. 100 - 200 on the rod and 100 - 150 on the reel. I personally feel like the rod is going to be more important in most cases, at least for most of the techniques I fish. I really like jigs and soft plastics, so sensitivity is very important. This also means spending a little bit more on line too IMO. The only set up that I feel like one could argue that you don't need as sensitive of a rod might be a cranking set up, but still, I like the sensitivity to feel the wobble/rattle on the retrieve, if it bumps into cover, is bouncing on the bottom, gets stuck on weeds, etc. Just my 2 cents.
jerzeeD reply :
^ This. My rods are generally where the money goes, but dont buy a 200+ dollar rod and slap a 40 dollar reel on it. Most of my reels fall into the 80-100 dollar range (spinning reels), but the exception is my Pflueger Patriarch. As long as the reel is smooth, durable and flex free it should be fine.
Dave P reply :
Contact baits = more expensive rods. Reaction baits, doesn't matter that much, IMO. Nice reels are always nice.
Ima Bass Ninja reply :
I would say the rod is most important but a reel will always cost more. They just have more components and moving parts which require more engineering. So a 100 rod should be paired with a 150 reel if you are trying to match quality of rod and reel if that makes sense. I guess an example would be a $80 vendetta rod matched with a $130 revo sx.
flyfisher reply :
I also like to balance rod and reel for about the same price. I do like nice reels though especially when it comes to fly reels 
iabass8 reply :
I also dont know why people spend hundreds of dollars on reels and spend a fraction of that on rods.
kickerfish1 reply :
Both. The angler needs to pick a rod and reel that will accomplish the specific techniques needed. For that matter I would throw in picking the correct line as well.
I used to prefer buying nicer rods but now I spend equal on both or slightly more on the reels on average but part of it is doing external and internal upgrades.
roadwarrior reply :
Reels make fishing fun, rods make it more productive.
Generally, the cost of my stuff is 2/3 reel, 1/3 rod, but 50/50 is a good mix.
The Next KVD reply :
I'm all over the board in ratio. One thing though is my rod is atleast going to be $100. I'm a big fan of Abu Veritas rods but I also have a few custom made St.Croix Legend Elites, G-Loomis IMX and a Kistler Helium that run in the $200+. I'm also a diehard fan of the Shimano Citica E's but I have 4 very special Shimano Chronarch B's that I use. I tend to use my more expesive reels on the expensive rods and the $120 reels on the $100 rods.
Loop_Dad reply :
On 10/2/2012 at 7:30 AM, Ima Bass Ninja said:I would say the rod is most important but a reel will always cost more. They just have more components and moving parts which require more engineering. So a 100 rod should be paired with a 150 reel if you are trying to match quality of rod and reel if that makes sense. I guess an example would be a $80 vendetta rod matched with a $130 revo sx.
I'm about the same as Bass Ninja. $100 rod + $150 reel. I don't think equal price between rod & reel means the same level of quality.
SirSnookalot reply :
I only fish techniques that are fun to me, having the most sensitive rod isn't my issue I don't fish bottom baits more than 6 or 7 times a year, using braid gives me all the feel I need. I use 3 sizes of supreme spinning on 3 sized rods, 2 of 3 are actually inshore saltwater, these set ups work perfect for me. The average cost per combo is less than about $180. My SW combos average about twice the price.
new2BC4bass reply :
This topic comes up every so often. No harm tho as most people don't look past the 1st page, imo. The consensus is the same every time.
Having said that, I like reels. I'd put a $300 reel on a $40 rod (if I could afford a $300 reel. ) Like others, I want the most sensitive rod I can afford for bottom contact baits.
retiredbosn reply :
On 10/2/2012 at 8:47 AM, roadwarrior said:Reels make fishing fun, rods make it more productive.
I think this is the best quote here. I think we all suffer to a degree from reelmania; the desire to find that one magical reel that casts a country mile, drops a bait on a dime and retrieves smooth as silk.
retiredbosn reply :
All of the posts so far are from experienced anglers who know that the rod is an important part of the equation. Some may argue the most important. And for the most part are in agreement, the reel will cost more, just don't spend all the budget on it and handicap yourself with a crappy rod.
Bluebasser86 reply :
I could argue it either way pretty easily but imo I'm going to drop more money on the rod than the reel, almost all of my combos prove that. The only exception would be my cranking rods, both of them are about 60/40 reel to rod but sensitivity isn't as much of an issue.
fishking247 reply :
i usually put my money more towards the rod. i strictly fish spinning tackle in freshwater and their are a lot of quality "cheap" spinning reels. it is more of a luxury thing to me fishing a high end ($150+) spinning reel. this isn't to say i always buy cheap spinning reels but if i had a limited budget i would rather have a better rod then spinning reel
when i fish saltwater a more expensive conventional reel is far superior to the rod. I still fish a lot of old glass rods bottom fishing saltwater but always spend the money on a high quality conventional reel.
Dwight Hottle reply :
I had a buddy show up for two days of smallie fishing with a shimano stella spinning reel mounted on a bass pro 6 foot red rod with four guides on it. 
He purchased the rod with another reel on it as a combo for $40.00. I laughed my arse off. I like to match up 50/50 or 2/3 to 1/3. on most of my rigs.
J Francho reply :
Most will say put the money towards the rod, however, reels are more expensive. $200 will get you a good reel that will last years, but you can get a great rod for around $100.
K_Mac reply :
I tend to use as inexpensive of gear as possible that will do the job. $100 for a rod or reel is about where that happens for me. I do have a couple of rods that exceed that price point, and if money were no object I would upgrade the other rods before buying any higher end reels. I would have no problem fishing a PQ reel on an NRX rod... 
tholmes reply :
On 10/2/2012 at 7:36 AM, iabass8 said:I also dont know why people spend hundreds of dollars on reels and spend a fraction of that on rods.
In my case, it's simple. I'm MUCH more likely to break a rod than a reel.
Tom
jignfule reply :
$ into the rod
rockchalk06 reply :
For bait casting, the Reel. You can buy a decent rod for under 50 dollars. Buying a cheap reel will give you nothing but trouble. Turn you away from bait casting.
Jake P reply :
I see rod sensitivity as more of an issue for inexperienced or new anglers. I know there's a difference in a broom stick and gloomis. But I think it is way over hyped for the most part. I have never had an issue with sensitivity from my bps graphite rods to my shimano crucial. Just my opinion though.
Money is better spent on a reel.
SirSnookalot reply :
There really is no wrong answer. Where one puts their money may depend on the level of enthusiasm, budget, target species, conditions that will promote more wear and tear, and so on. It really isn't about catching fish, you're going to do that with whatever you are using. For some it's about value and for others it's about personal self esteem.
retiredbosn reply :
On 10/3/2012 at 1:58 PM, SirSnookalot said:There really is no wrong answer. Where one puts their money may depend on the level of enthusiasm, budget, target species, conditions that will promote more wear and tear, and so on. It really isn't about catching fish, you're going to do that with whatever you are using. For some it's about value and for others it's about personal self esteem.
There is some truth here
TNBassin' reply :
Agreed. I've gotten away with cheapo rods for years, but never have been able to keep a cheapo reel going for more than 2 seasons. That being said, my Revo S is on a veritas, and my STX will be on a Villain as soon as they micro guide version hits.On 10/3/2012 at 10:00 AM, rockchalk06 said:For bait casting, the Reel. You can buy a decent rod for under 50 dollars. Buying a cheap reel will give you nothing but trouble. Turn you away from bait casting.
steezy reply :
The rod is #1, the reel is a luxury. It's like power windows on a car, the hand crank works great but the electric makes it nice.
Jim_M reply :
I'm in the 2/3 reel, 1/3 rod camp. You can boat/land great fish with a simple rod for years. That is IF your technique is solid.
Wont happen with a bozo reel.
SoFlaBassAddict reply :
Rod IMO.
I don't skimp on my gear for either. No matter which you choose to spend more money on, you can get some very good quality gear around the 100 dollar mark.
piscicidal reply :
Moving bait setups, I favor the reel. Finesse/vertical setups requiring more feel I favor the rod.
dam0007 reply :
One thing a lot of people don't realize is with how fast technology advances, what's "cheap, junk or average" was just top of the line 3-4 years ago.
On that note I'll be willing to pay more for Made in USA/Japan, Better warranty, etc. Then buy something equal in quality for $20 less made in a sweatshop with a 30 day warranty, but according to marketing dollars its still good quality.
dam0007 reply :
Sorry steered off topic but my point was whatever works and works good I have a $300 rod $200 reel setup then I have a $200 reel $40 rod set up. Several rods in the $80-150 range and several reels in the $50-400 range. Really depends what your trying to achieve but if you only fished once in a while and just wanted a all around good combo that is reliable then I'd have to say pick a price point and go 50/50.
LgMouthGambler reply :
$150-200 on a reel, and $50-100 for the rod would be a fair setup.
piscicidal reply :
$100-$350 for the rod, $100-$400 for the reel, $79 for the handle...that's the way to go.
Jus sayin'!
SirSnookalot reply :
IMO money spent on gear is directly related to to species and their potential size, techniques, level of enthusiasm and most important ones own budget.
If I were a b/c user, heaven forbid, I'd look into those handles. I have swapped my handle on my soron 20 for a soron 4000 handle which fits perfect and is a power handle. I could never count the number of double digit fish I've caught with this reel, the handle makes a big difference.
LgMouthGambler reply :
Good golly Ms Molly!On 10/9/2012 at 10:15 AM, piscicidal said:$100-$350 for the rod, $100-$400 for the reel, $79 for the handle...that's the way to go.
Jus sayin'!
rockchalk06 reply :
On 10/9/2012 at 10:15 AM, piscicidal said:$100-$350 for the rod, $100-$400 for the reel, $79 for the handle...that's the way to go.
Jus sayin'!
Seriously? No offense but that about the worst amount of info I have ever heard for a newbie. You want a guy just starting out to spend over 800 dollars on one combo?
J Francho reply :
On 10/10/2012 at 12:46 AM, rockchalk06 said:Seriously? No offense but that about the worst amount of info I have ever heard for a newbie. You want a guy just starting out to spend over 800 dollars on one combo?
Yeah seriously. By my math, that's $280 to $830. Minus the handle, $200 is pretty easy to rack up on a decent rod and reel.
rockchalk06 reply :
On 10/10/2012 at 1:17 AM, J Francho said:Yeah seriously. By my math, that's $280 to $830. Minus the handle, $200 is pretty easy to rack up on a decent rod and reel.
True but for someone starting out to spend 200 dollars is kinda high IMO. If they decide they don't like the combo its going to be hard to bring that money back out of it
J Francho reply :
Spend $200, and you're going to get used to it, you'll learn to like it. You resell it immediately, you'll easily get 2/3 back out of it. Try that with a cheap, dept. store combo that you'll probably never learn to love.
K_Mac reply :
On 10/9/2012 at 10:15 AM, piscicidal said:$100-$350 for the rod, $100-$400 for the reel, $79 for the handle...that's the way to go.
Jus sayin'!
Going back to the original post, the question is where do you spend the most money-rod or reel? While my income doesn't allow for high-end combos Piscicidal's answer makes good sense to me, and shows the common price range for decent rods or reels. Yes, you can spend less than $100 for either, but you risk buying an inferior product that will lessen your enjoyment, limit your success, and cost more in the long term IMO. And yes, spending $800 or more for a combo is entirely reasonable to many if you want a high end combo that will be a pleasure to fish for a lifetime.
FWIW the $79 for the handle is a judgement call just like everything else related to tackle. Over the life of a reel it isn't much money as far as I'm concerned if it increases the joy of using it.
J Francho reply :
On 10/10/2012 at 2:01 AM, K_Mac said:FWIW the $79 for the handle is a judgement call just like everything else related to tackle. Over the life of a reel it isn't much money as far as I'm concerned if it increases the joy of using it.
I have a Hawgtech handle. Paid retail for it, too - so you know I'm not shilling. As my budget allows, I will be adding more, along with replacing knobs where I don't want the bigger handle. It's that well made. A relative bargain in the world of reel upgrade parts.
K_Mac reply :
Good to know J Franco. If I can save enough nickles I want to try one!
It is interesting that as a confirmed budget fisherman I find myself defending spending a little more for rods and reels. As most know, I use BPS PQ reels that can be bought on sale for $80. They have held up to tough use for several years now without any problems. I have had other experiences with inexpensive gear (rods, reels, and other tackle) that just turned out to be "cheap". I would not advise a new fisherman to buy cheap gear. One good combo is worth more than several cheap ones. My opinion, based on my experience...
dam0007 reply :
Hate to just barge into convo... Again... But if you HAVE to spend $800+... On 1 combo... You either A) suck at catching fish, 
are in the wrong sport or C) have recently hit the lottery. Lmao yup that just about sums it up.
dam0007 reply :
^ keywords are HAVE TO, before any Stella/Van Staal owners blast me 
J Francho reply :
Or,
D. You have the means, and enjoy fishing with high end equipment.
I have a friend with a centrepin setup for trout where the rod was $600 and the reel around $400 used. Some of the handmade reels sell for $1K or more, and might only have one bearing. He could out fish me 5:1, even if we switched gear. I doubt he'd go back to my low rent, $400 setup, though.
SirSnookalot reply :
On 10/10/2012 at 2:48 AM, dam0007 said:^ keywords are HAVE TO, before any Stella/Van Staal owners blast me
They don't get anymore strikes, but in the case of the Van Staal it is supposed to be impervious to sand entering the reel, a real big plus for beach fishing. The Long Island guys coming to Florida for the winter seem to be always packing one. In the medium and larger sizes of offshore spinning the 8000 stella has a whopping 55# of drag, which actually is the same drag as their 20,000 reel. My comparable sized soron 60 and penn conquer have 30 and 32# which is darn good but no where near the stella...........you bet it makes a difference out there. I fished with a 5000 stradic fj yesterday, that's my next one.
On the fly equipment, I have friends down here that probably are not rich but very devoted to fly fishing and they wouldn't touch a rod and reel under $1000.
AndyTN reply :
I am always one to recite the "buy once, cry once" mantra when it comes to quality gear, but $800.00 for a combo to start? I realize that's an accurate price range for an avid fisherman with that kind of budget, but not for a beginner. I have been at this for forty plus years and yes have rod/reels at that price point and they can be an advantage. I also have a friend who can only be described as a true hillbilly. He 340lbs hands with catchers mitts for hands. He's never bought a rod/reel combo that went for much over $100.00 because he could just not afford to. With that, I've never seen someone who can cast so consistently accurate as him with a baitcaster. He can just drop a lure anywhere he's aiming with minimal splash when it gets there. Over and over and over again. He has brought in more large bass then anyone I know including two >10lb's. I've never managed even one. The point being local knowledge and skill are a better initial investment than top of the line gear.
$100 for a Rod, and $150 for a reel for starters will put a lot of fish in the boat.
LgMouthGambler reply :
The difference in price is going to be how well the equipment is going to hold up to abuse, and how long they will last you. I dont care what anyone says, a $60 Abu Black Max combo is not going to last as long, or is built as well as a (and just using this as an example) Shimano Chronarch on a Veritas rod for $300. Yes it will get fish in the boat, but you will be needing a new reel after a while. With reels that are around $200 like the Chronarch, STX, Lews Pro Speed Spool, etc, they will give you 10-20-30 years of use, and more with proper maint. Of course the Shimano is gonna be the one to last closer to the 30 year mark. 
J Francho reply :
Quotethey will give you 10-20-30 years of use, and more with proper maint.
10+, maybe. 30 years? Hmmmm.... I've had some much higher end reels than that not last five years. Megabass Alphas Ito Ai comes to mind. After about 5 years, gearsets, pawls, and worm gears get replaced. The dog eared gear on on almost all Shimanos wears out after years of heavy use, especially if has a redundant anti-reverse pawl. On any of the Gen one Pure Fishing reels (Revos, Floogers), the clutch trip plate commonly wears out after a few years. I'm not going to mention the spool spacers that wear out after a couple years. To me they are line brake pads or tires on a car - wearable parts. These are easy fixes, though sometimes expensive, but considering that I've seen just as many much older reels without these issues tells me quality is not the same. If you're looking for a 30 year reel, then get a Calcutta B. you can even get a well used one. It'll serve you the duration.
LgMouthGambler reply :
I'll let you know in 30 years when Im still fishing my E series Citica, Curados, and Chronarchs.On 10/10/2012 at 3:44 AM, J Francho said:10+, maybe. 30 years? Hmmmm.... I've had some much higher end reels than that not last five years. Megabass Alphas Ito Ai comes to mind. After about 5 years, gearsets, pawls, and worm gears get replaced. The dog eared gear on on almost all Shimanos wears out after years of heavy use, especially if has a redundant anti-reverse pawl. On any of the Gen one Pure Fishing reels (Revos, Floogers), the clutch trip plate commonly wears out after a few years. I'm not going to mention the spool spacers that wear out after a couple years. To me they are line brake pads or tires on a car - wearable parts. These are easy fixes, though sometimes expensive, but considering that I've seen just as many much older reels without these issues tells me quality is not the same. If you're looking for a 30 year reel, then get a Calcutta B. you can even get a well used one. It'll serve you the duration.
piscicidal reply :
On 10/10/2012 at 12:46 AM, rockchalk06 said:Seriously? No offense but that about the worst amount of info I have ever heard for a newbie. You want a guy just starting out to spend over 800 dollars on one combo?
The very first baitcast reel I bought was a Shakesphere Axiom for ~$40 at Wal Mart. The thing was an absolute piece of garbage...backlash almost every cast. I bought a used Curado a couple days later and threw that Axiom straight in the junk drawer.
I don't think anyone who is serious about fishing should get a reel or rod that retails for less than $100...ESPECIALLY a newbie.
I have never regretted spending money on quality equipment. In the long run it pays to buy quality. Conversely, the few times I've bought inferior gear, I've got come to regret it. That Axiom was the worst $40 I think I've ever spent.
piscicidal reply :
And for the record, I did not say a newbie should go spending $800 on a combo.
What I did say...$100-$300 for the rod and $100-$400 for the reel. I also said I favor the rod on vertical presentations and the reel on horizontonal (moving) presentations. I have $100 rods/reels (veritas/accurist) and I have $300 rods/reels (champion extreme, chronarch) yet not one of my combos is worth more than $450, because I allocate my resources according to the presentation.
AndyTN reply :
The evolution of reel design has been towards the highly advertised form factor, features and weight reduction. Longevity is subject to so many variables. Design, materials, and production tolerances play an important role in the longevity of any item, but they are not the whole story. The spirit of the thread was about an initial cost outlay. For me, I would spend a reasonable (subjective) amount of money and get good with that before I made a real investment towards high end features.
And for the record I'm still fishing a low end 30+ year old Olympic Spark spinning reel that has all metal gears and drag and probably cost less then $15.00 new. It was all I could afford at the time. By today's standards, it's both heavy, and clunky, and has become one of my catfish reels.
QUAKEnSHAKE reply :
My foray into mid level reels hasnt lived up to my expectations or the hype of them (stradic,50E). I have lesser priced reels that perform just as well and with less issues over years of use. For this reason Im hesitant to purchase that level again when my $60-$70 reels are holding their own. It would take a good deal say 50% off for me to consider a $200 reel in the brands I have.
My better rods though $150-$340 have all been very good to excellent and continue to please me more the more I use them. I toss a President on my Elite without a second thought and the combo works great for me.
Sensitivity wise something that doesnt get mentioned hardly at all is the "Feel of the fight" once the fish is on. With a nicer more sensitive rod the play, the feel of the fish pulling, twisting, going up, down, rolling, shaking almost feeling the muscle of the fish is what I very much like of my better rods. I dont get this feedback with my lesser rods.
So I feel money towards a better rod is the way to go.
retiredbosn reply :
With all the questions we get I wanted a thread to discuss in general terms where to put the money. For bottom presentations and verticle presentations I spend more on the rod, than on a rod that I use for reaction baits. My reels are all in the 100-200 range, I've never paid more than 159 and that was for my Curado E NIB, my rods are the same. When I started out I was dumb as a fence post when it came to stuff like this, and a little advice in the right direction was always helpful. Think I posted somewhere on here, pretty simple, quality reels will cost more than the rod generally. If you are on a budget use your best reel for reaction fishing where the reel is doing all the work, your best rod on techniques that need sensitivity.
tracker01 reply :
Ok, my thoughts. Does spending more money on a rod or reel allow me to catch more fish? Maybe, but not too sure about that. Now, does spending more money increase the fun factor of fishing for me? Absolutely 900%. I fish mainly spinning gear and only have two bait casters, one deep crank bait rod and the other a GLoomis mbr783 glx with a Core50mg7 mounted on it. Allot of bucks in that glx and core, but I got them on line in classified sections. Back to my point. That one glx/core handles a bunch of techniques, small cranks, t-rigs, c-rigs, small jigs, etc. It is a light outfit and when I go fishing I want to enjoy my equipment and maybe, just maybe catch a few fish. So where would I put my money? Even -up. That being said, I do not want an anchor of a reel mounted on a light stick. That would definitely take off some" fun factor" points. I am retired and at one time it was the number of fish, now it's the number of times I get out to fish.
QUIENYO reply :
This question needs to be split between the spinning set-up and bait-casting set-up. I know a few responses have already brought this up, but most vertical presentations in open water come from a spinning set-up. I just bought a relatively inexpensive President reel and put it onto a cheaper rod. I know that when the Black Friday sales come around, the first thing I'm going to purchase is a quality rod to use with my President. So for me, with a spinning set-up, I think 1/3 to the reel and 2/3 to the rod makes sense if it is being used for vertical presentations.
My bait-casting gear is hard to figure, but I would guess it is opposite of the spinning set-up. Its hard to figure since my reels were all new purchases (Abu 5503, 51E and STX) and every rod they rest on was bought used for significantly less money. I figure tossing jigs in slop requires a quality reel and a stout rod/broomstick. Same with the re-action baits.
I will say that those of us that are stunned by the purchase price of the gear that others buy; we need to get over it. Cost is a relative perspective. Yep, I'm not exactly rolling in it, but if I was more financially secure I would not bat an eye at dropping whatever I wanted on my combos, it's my money. If I was a newbie (I am) and dropped a grand on a Stella and a custom stick (i didn't), what difference would that make to anyone? Just sayin, my $.02
SirSnookalot reply :
QuoteIf I was a newbie (I am) and dropped a grand on a Stella and a custom stick (i didn't), what difference would that make to anyone? Just sayin, my $.02
It really doesn't make a difference, it's ones own justification for the expense. To me a $1000 reel and $500 rod is like wearing plus 4's on the golf course when you can't break a 100. When a person with a $100 combo is out catching you, or a golfer with a set of 30 year old clubs is driving 40 yds further, you start realizing that you can't buy swing or a fish.
K_Mac reply :
SirSnook you make a good point. One thing to consider though is that if the guy with the 30 year old driver is crushing the drive, how much better could he do with a new one? Being good does not depend on equipment, BUT it does matter IMO.
Quarry Man reply :
On 10/2/2012 at 8:33 PM, retiredbosn said:All of the posts so far are from experienced anglers who know that the rod is an important part of the equation. Some may argue the most important. And for the most part are in agreement, the reel will cost more, just don't spend all the budget on it and handicap yourself with a crappy rod.
When I first started fishing, i thought i needed a nice rod, not reel. when unexperienced anglers ask you "what rod is that" they usually mean reel too, but don't realize that they are costly as well. I bought that first spinning combo for 150$ it was a 100$ rod and 50$ reel.
Now, I believe everyone needs at least one good setup. 1 really good spinning setup. Mine is 50/50 both 230-250$s each. I also think that people should get a rod at least 100$. Reels have more parts and are more costly. casting reels should be around 100-150 as a minimum. More sensitive rods for techniques like dragging that need it.
3crows reply :
I do believe you get what you pay for and higher end equipment does have tangible benefits but that is not to say that there is not value in many ranges of equipment. I have no interest, that said, in some of the low end junk I see around, some of which are knock offs of real companies genuine products.
In 1973 I bought an Abu Garcia 5500C, it cost $54.00 and in today's dollars that is $297.00. I still use the reel though I have rebuilt it several times and upgraded it as well. The original Lew's Speed Stick I mounted it on is also entirely useable today though it is retired.
Money spent on good tools, and in this case the tools are fishing gear, is never miss-spent if you get your use and enjoyment out of them and only you can decide when that is crossed.
Burke reply :
I tend to go 3/5 of the Rod and 2/5 on the Reel.
Rod/Reel Example:
G Loomis NRX 803C JWR with Shimano Core50MG7
Dobyns Chapmion 734C with SHimano CoreMG7
St. Croix Mojo Bass with Curado 70
scaleface reply :
Haha . My most expensive reel is on an inexpensive rod. What can I say , they just work well together .
d-camarena reply :
Most of my combos are $80 rods paired to $100 reels. I have never felt ive needed more and i do really good in local tourneys. Ive had more expensive setups but never felt an advantage do i settled on the $100 mark.
Quarry Man reply :
If you're on a budget, don't use a high end reel, EVER! you will regret that choice for a while. or should i say your bank account will.
(ask me)
Big Bait Fishing reply :
all the rods i use are $350 and up customs , though all my reels but two ( Revo Toro 51 & Revo ALX ) are $200 or less . as most others have said , you need the action , power , and sensitivity in the rod , that's were you get what you pay for . as long as you get a good quality reel that performs to your expectations , you should be good without spending a lot .
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