Never used fluoro - need a recommendation 2024
pauldconyers reply :
I've got a new rod setup and I think I want to try fluoro on it but having NEVER used fluoro I'd like a make and model recommendation to try. I wanted a rod/reel to throw primarily crankbaits from square bills to 3XD's. But from time to time chatter baits and 1/2 oz spinner baits and such. I went with a 7' Lews David Fritts glass crank rod and I am pairing it up with a 6:3 Daiwa Fuego CT reel. I am thinking maybe 10 or 12 pound fluoro maybe? What brand and model should I go with and all that?
TIA
A-Jay reply :
First off it may not be a good plan to select a bargain priced fluorocarbon line.
These forums are full of threads noting unhappy anglers who went that route only to be woefully disappointed. You may want to save yourself some $$ & time and select a quality product the first time.
If you want the very best ~ IMO Seaguar Tatsu is it, but it's $$$.
Seaguar InvizX is a very close in performance but only about half the $$$$ making it a solid choice as well.
I'd go with 15 lb in either one for the applications you mentioned, especially if you're around plus size bass & or moderate to heavy cover.
Good Luck
A-Jay
anderb54 reply :
Sunline Sniper is a good one to start out with. It has a well deserved reputation of being manageable and doesn't have serious memory issues. It's also not going to bust your wallet either. I'd go with the 14 lb if you're going to throw chatter and spinnerbaits.
CroakHunter reply :
sunline assassin for me. 10lb for 3xd. 15 for chatter and spinnerbaits
pauldconyers reply :
I doubt it matters but I probably should have mention I went with the medium action rod. Probably won't change recommendations but I should have mentioned it.
Way north bass guy reply :
I’ve had really good luck with Berkley 100% fluorocarbon in multiple lb tests, both on spinning and casting rods. Little tip for ya, get some kvd line and lure conditioner, it definitely helps.
Angry John reply :
As a first flourocarbon I would go with the invesx. It handles about the best and is easy to get along with. I use a lot of sniper and pline 100%. They are my favorite and both are quality at a not so painful price. Dont know how often or if you backlash, but flourocarbon kinks very easy and they need to be cut off. This can get expensive and I would get used to a brand new setup before switching over.
Janderson45 reply :
I throw 12lb tatsu in the manner that you’re talking about. That said if I was just getting into fluorocarbon I’d recommend abraz X, Invis X, or Sunline Sniper which are all cheaper than tatsu by quite a bit... I still use all of them in various applications.
Im also a big braid to fluorocarbon leader guy.... if you learn to properly tie an FG knot I can’t recommend it enough. You can absolutely have your cake and eat it too with this setup, best of both worlds.
the reel ess reply :
Along these same lines, I have a related question. Is there any reason you can't use a braid main line with a fluoro leader on BC gear? I know a lot of people do that with spinning gear.
Yumeya reply :
Tatsu is what I would use.
I use it as leader material, I also use a lot of sunline.
MinnowzNuttin reply :
I've been using the Seaguar red label and Invizx for several years. It has been good to me.
EGbassing reply :
Seaguar Red Label is amazing for the price. It should be on sale for $12.00 at Dick's Sports.
Bluebasser86 reply :
Tatsu if you can afford it, InvisX if not.
On a side note, zero reason to use fluoro for the applications you described imo. Save yourself some money and get a good mono or copolymer for cranking and moving baits.
ChrisD46 reply :
On 11/4/2018 at 12:31 PM, Bluebasser86 said:Tatsu if you can afford it, InvisX if not.
On a side note, zero reason to use fluoro for the applications you described imo. Save yourself some money and get a good mono or copolymer for cranking and moving baits.
*Your main applications for FC line then ?
Bluebasser86 reply :
On 11/4/2018 at 4:39 PM, ChrisD46 said:*Your main applications for FC line then ?
Bottom contact baits, and I use mono or copolymer for some of those as well.
MickD reply :
Unless you are really proficient with a BC outfit, don't go FC. Its advantages are minuscule, and its problems are not. Expensive, fragile, stiff. It's good for leaders (leader grade FC.).
OK, FC fans, pile on.
WRB reply :
The bottom line, pun intended, there isn't a fluorocarbon line that can equal premium monofilament line abrasion resistance, impact strength or knot strength per diameter available.
The question is why use FC line for anything other then bottom contact lures where it's reduced drag coefficient and weight creating less belly in the line is an advantage?
The most reliable FC lines are expensive compared to premium monofilament lines.
Seaguar Tatsu, Blackwater Toray, Sunline Shooter and Seaguar AbrazX, Sunline Super Sniper are all good FC lines to choose from with Tatsu the most expensive to Sniper the least expensive.
Most recreational bass anglers don't change or respool their line very often and FC is susceptible to use degradation more then premium mono is. If the price isn't an issue and if you respool line often after use and take great caution in tieing knot carefully and correctly, then FC line may work for you.
For the lures and presentations The OP is using Berkley Big Game 12 lb or Sunline Defier Armillo 13 lb Nylon are choices.
Tom
pauldconyers reply :
Well for what I am going to be fishing with this rod/reel should I stick with braid? I am a big fan of the 832 sufix and usually go with the 40lb variety. Since I will be throwing a lot of small/medium cranks and such I thought giving fluoro a try might be the way to go. From what I said I would be using it for what is the way to go?
ratherbfishin1 reply :
On 11/5/2018 at 2:51 AM, pauldconyers said:Well for what I am going to be fishing with this rod/reel should I stick with braid? I am a big fan of the 832 sufix and usually go with the 40lb variety. Since I will be throwing a lot of small/medium cranks and such I thought giving fluoro a try might be the way to go. From what I said I would be using it for what is the way to go?
I would not be using braid for cranks because then you risk ripping the hooks out of their mouths. You want the stretch to give you a little “forgiveness” and that is why people usually use mono of floro for cranks.
Catt reply :
On 11/4/2018 at 5:31 AM, A-Jay said:You may want to save yourself some $$ & time and select a quality product the first time.
If you want the very best ~ IMO Seaguar Tatsu is it, but it's $$$.
Seaguar InvizX is a very close in performance but only about half the $$$$ making it a solid choice as well.
Or Sunline JDM FC Sniper Invisible ????
NYWayfarer reply :
I have been using Kastking Fluorokote for the past two seasons. It’s a copolymer line coated with fluorocarbon. 12# on some of my baitcasters and 8# on my spinning gear. I think it’s a great line for the price.
It’s my go to line for anything other than topwater baits.
pauldconyers reply :
On 11/5/2018 at 6:09 AM, NYWayfarer said:I have been using Kastking Fluorokote for the past two seasons. It’s a copolymer line coated with fluorocarbon. 12# on some of my baitcasters and 8# on my spinning gear. I think it’s a great line for the price.
It’s my go to line for anything other than topwater baits.
Yeah I don't know much about copolymer lines. What is the main benefit of them and it's best use?
NYWayfarer reply :
On 11/5/2018 at 7:22 AM, pauldconyers said:Yeah I don't know much about copolymer lines. What is the main benefit of them and it's best use?
The idea with Kastking Fluorokote is it’s a hybrid line. It’s supposed to have the benefits of Fluoro (visibility and sinks) with none of the weaknesses (knot strength)
So far it has met my expectations as I have not had the breakage issues I have had with straight Fluoro. I will be trying 4 and 6# next season on trout to test the visibility aspect.
Stephen B reply :
On 11/5/2018 at 2:46 AM, WRB said:The bottom line, pun intended, there isn't a fluorocarbon line that can equal premium monofilament line abrasion resistance, impact strength or knot strength per diameter available.
The question is why use FC line for anything other then bottom contact lures where it's reduced drag coefficient and weight creating less belly in the line is an advantage?
The most reliable FC lines are expensive compared to premium monofilament lines.
Seaguar Tatsu, Blackwater Toray, Sunline Shooter and Seaguar AbrazX, Sunline Super Sniper are all good FC lines to choose from with Tatsu the most expensive to Sniper the least expensive.
Most recreational bass anglers don't change or respool their line very often and FC is susceptible to use degradation more then premium mono is. If the price isn't an issue and if you respool line often after use and take great caution in tieing knot carefully and correctly, then FC line may work for you.
For the lures and presentations The OP is using Berkley Big Game 12 lb or Sunline Defier Armillo 13 lb Nylon are choices.
Tom
You could also argue that you aren't getting the sensitivity from the mono that fluorocarbon has. Big Game vs Sunline Sniper, Tatsu, Invizx, Shooter is a night and day difference in my hands and for all the buddies I fish with. I don't use mono much at all for bottom contact due to this. Mono has its place but not for bottom contact for me. With everything there are tradeoffs and one must make their individualized choice.
WRB reply :
I have only used Sunline Shooter FC since 1994 or 24 years and know what premium FC feels like and can't see any reason to use it for the lures the suggest he is using. Jigs and worms there is better feedback then premium mono because it has less drag coeffient in the water. Don't you wonder how anyone ever caught bass using mono?, it stretches too much, bass can see it etc, etc. Take a look at my 5 giant bass listed, all were caught on either 12 Trilene or 10 & 12 lb Big Game fishing jigs cast over 100 feet in 15' to 25' deep. The reason is the stretch and sensitivity hype is BS.
The Sunline JDM Sniper is $34 /82 yd spool!
Tom
Stephen B reply :
On 11/5/2018 at 8:11 AM, WRB said:I have only used Sunline Shooter FC since 1994 or 24 years and know what premium FC feels like and can't see any reason to use it for the lures the suggest he is using. Jigs and worms there is better feedback then premium mono because it has less drag coeffient in the water. Don't wonder how anyone ever caught bass using mono, it stretches too much, bass can see it etc, etc. Take a look at my 5 giant bass listed, all were caught on either 12 Trilene or 10 & 12 lb Big Game fishing jigs cast over 100 feet in 15' to 25' deep. The reason is the stretch ans sensitivity hype is BS.
The Sunline JDM Sniper is $34 /82 TD spool!
Tom
Im referring to Super FC Sniper which is more affordable around $20 for 200 yards. I do agree to an extent about stretch and sensitivity being overhyped but I can tell a significant difference in bottom contact presentations sensitivity with fluorocarbon over mono. I've caught plenty of good fish on mono but that doesn't prove anything. No one is saying mono is useless it's just inferior in some aspects. I use mono all the time for many presentations/techniques. It just an individualized approach and decision people must make. Many people fish straight braid for everything, no one is right/wrong.
WRB reply :
I used Super Sniper in 7, 10 and 12 lb test for the past decade because the price of Shooter doubled and had the exact random knot failures as Shooter, Tatsu, Toray, Seaguar lines. The key using FC line is to retie knots every hour or after every descent size bass or after pulling on a snagged lure. If FC line is stressed it breaks.
I still use FC for a few presentations, but very few.
Tom
pauldconyers reply :
On 11/5/2018 at 8:39 AM, WRB said:I used Super Sniper in 7, 10 and 12 lb test for the past decade because the price of Shooter doubled and had the exact random knot failures as Shooter, Tatsu, Toray, Seaguar lines. The key using FC line is to retie knots every hour or after every descent size bass or after pulling on a snagged lure. If FC line is stressed it breaks.
I still use FC for a few presentations, but very few.
Tom
Well Tom, for what I'm looking to do with this specific rod/reel what would you suggest using?
ratherbfishin1 reply :
Like what @WRB was saying, floro, once stretched doesn't "unstretch" or go back to its original as easily/quickly as mono will. For that reason you will have to be more cautious of your line and knot weakening and you will have to retie and even re-spool more often. This is what I've heard, I am not certain it is true though so correct me if I'm wrong. I would recommend any seaguar line but if you for some reason decide to go with mono instead +1 for 12lb big game, Love the value of that stuff.
WRB reply :
On 11/5/2018 at 8:46 AM, pauldconyers said:Well Tom, for what I'm looking to do with this specific rod/reel what would you suggest using?
I answered that; 12 lb Big Game or 13 lb Armillo if similar line diameters and casting performance. The next size Big Game is 15 lb and Armillo 19 lb would be similar size.
Tom
Catt reply :
On 11/5/2018 at 8:55 AM, WRB said:I answered that; 12 lb Big Game or 13 lb Armillo if similar line diameters and casting performance. The next size Big Game is 15 lb and Armillo 19 lb would be similar size.
Tom
Like Tom (just not as many) I've caught 35 double digit bass all on Berkley Big Game 15#.
Berkley Big Game has superior knot strength, abrasion resistance, & shock absorption over fluorocarbon.
The big selling point of fluorocarbon was it stretches less than monofilament that was until the test results were released.
burrows reply :
You might not need floro for the specific purposes that you will be applying it for, however if you feel like you want to try it , try it! Get some red lable 12-15 pound and give it a go your gonna have to try it out eventually for bottom baits or whatever else you want to apply it to.
Bluebasser86 reply :
On 11/5/2018 at 8:55 AM, WRB said:I answered that; 12 lb Big Game or 13 lb Armillo if similar line diameters and casting performance. The next size Big Game is 15 lb and Armillo 19 lb would be similar size.
Tom
Either 12 or 15 Big Game is what I would suggest as well and the line I use a lot of the time for the baits mentioned.
maherme reply :
I normally use Seaguard Red Label for FC and for me it works really good and the price is fantastic. In casting reel I use 12 and 16 lb normally. I have also used P-Line Edge FC (I think it is discontinued ????) and I was happy with it, but the price is higher and I think the quality is pretty similar.
MickD reply :
On 11/5/2018 at 4:00 AM, ratherbfishin1 said:I would not be using braid for cranks because then you risk ripping the hooks out of their mouths. You want the stretch to give you a little “forgiveness” and that is why people usually use mono of floro for cranks.
Depends on the rod also. With a moderate action rod and a few feet of leader (mono or FC) braid works very well for cranks. I especially like my ML power moderate-fast action 7 ' spin rod (Rainshadow RX7 ISP 843) with 15 pound braid for small cranks up to Rapala DT6's. In the spring when SMB are fairly shallow, using small squarebills is effective and this outfit is ideal. Advocates of moderate action (crankbait) rods with mono or FC should try light braid-much better feel of the lure to detect weed fouling and strikes feel like strikes rather than snags.
Boomstick reply :
I ran Berkley Trilene flurocarbon in 15lbs on a rod all year. The only problem I had was fishing in shallower areas, my bait didn't just hit the bottom but it dragged along the bottom.
thinkingredneck reply :
Seagar red label was fine. Mostly I use braid to leader, but honestly I agree with the above posts. I can't tell a lot of difference and may go back to mono when I change lines.
NorthernBasser reply :
Are you planning on cranking in deeper water? Flouro will help get the crankbait down deeper than mono.
Angry John reply :
Were in the slow season and it may be worth the time and effort to really check out the value in copoly lines. I feel like for me it has everything. My choice is YHB because its strong, has good knots and its sink rate makes it work really well for most things. I like to jack jig fish, so the knot strength does not let me down, its a slow sink line so it works extremely well for jerkbaits, which i find get pulled down on a long cast with fluorocarbon. Why spend big bucks on a perfectly suspending lure just to have a heavy line drag it down. Its cheap and has decent abrasion resistance. I use it for swimbaits, 15lb and a swaiver 168 will drag in a 6.5 no issue. The line is a little thicker so i fish it by diameter with 10lb being my most common size. No single line is perfect and you will have to try a line to understand how it fits into your fishing. The red label is cheap and not the worst grade of fluorocarbon but it wore badly for me. If your in the *** like FL or CA or TX maybe you might need over 12 but i almost never do unless i am fishing 2oz baits or over. Do what makes you happy...
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