I am new to Jig fishing. I purchased some jigs in hopes to learn how to properly fish them.
I have a couple of questions,
When is the proper time to use a jig?
How do I work the lure?
Are trailers required? and What advantages do they add?
Any help or advice would be appreciated.
When is the proper time to use a jig? Year Round IMO
How do I work the lure? For me 75% of the time they hit it on the intitial fall. So make a good presentation and thats half the battle. If not let it settle to the bottom. Lift the Jig off the bottom and let it settle again. Some people swim these baits but I have very little experience in that.
Are trailers required? and What advantages do they add? I always use trailers. Different size ones in different situations but always use them. It makes the jig drop slower which keeps it in front of the Bass' nose for a longer period of time. Not to mention the movement of the trailer creats more vibrations in the water.
Good advice above, but another thought (especially this time of year) is to drop the jig right in the middle of the brush pile or drop it right down the tree trunk. When fish are holding tight to cover you want to get it right in there with 'em.
Swimming a jig can be a very good technique, but it doesn't work in every situation. You have to have some visability in the water for the fish to see it. Try parallelling the bank, weed line or rock line. If the water is pretty dingy try brighter colors for jigs (white or chartruese) - you may be surprised.
Here's a little piece I put together, The jig is my favorite lure to fish because of it's versatlity.
Representation,
First let's start with what a jig represents underwater, I believe the most
Popular use of it is to imitate a Crayfish but they also can imitate baitfish as well.
Jigs come in many different shapes, sizes and colors etc. The most popular crayfish imitators seem to be the good old skirted jig usually tipped with some sort of plastic or pork trailer.
Speaking of sizes, shapes, colors, I'm only going to really get into the skirted jig with a plastic or pork trailer as this is the bait I primarily use, and use it as a crayfish imitator only.
Sizes,
There is a very large size range available,
I mainly use 3 sizes of Jigs in my arsenal or depending on manufacturer the closest weight to these sizes 3/8 oz , ½ oz and ¾ oz.
I will mainly use a 3/8oz when fishing really shallow. The presentation has more time to be subtle because of the lighter weight than just crashing on the bottom in the shallow water.
1/2 oz. Jig
This is my go to, if there was only one jig weight aloud in my box, this would be it. I guess you could say the happy medium. I fish this 99 percent of the time from a regular bank down to 15 ft and anything in between.
The only time I go to a 3/4 oz. Is if I need to get through some thick weeds, the wind is really blowing or I am fishing dep but want to fish it faster than normal.
Colors,
I don't get crazy on colors when it comes to jigs. I have 3 colors that I have a ton of confidence in and those are Browns, Greens, and Black. It seems the jig has excepted rules on what colors for what conditions were faced with, green or brown, natural colors for clearer water and black or darker colors for murkier water or night time. I do follow that to a point but not because of the rule but because I have confidence in throwing those baits in those conditions. Ive caught fish in clear water with a black jig and fish in murky water and at night with a green jig so what's that tell us. Color is confidence in my book.
Trailers/Chunks
These come in many shapes and sizes, Most of them are made to represent the pincher end of the crayfish which are either threaded or simply hooked on to the jig.
I go rather simple in this area as far as selection.
I mainly use 3 colors in 2 sizes, Green, Brown and Black in 2 or 3 sizes I always match the color of the trailer with the jig, (just a confidence thing)
I will normally start off fishing with a 2 trailer in tournaments, I feel the smaller size may get me more bites in order to get my limit then I may upgrade trailer size to go after larger fish, but there is no rule here either, as I have caught fish over 6lbs. on 2 trailers and fish less than 12 on 3 trailers.
As far as the many styles and brands of trailers, my selection is simple I use my own, I feel they give me the best chances of catching fish and here is why: When a bass hits a jig they will normally engulf the whole lure, Jig and trailer. It only takes a split second for that fish to reject the bait if it notices anything artificial about it. When I make my trailers I add a lot of crayfish oil to the plastic prior to cooking then once poured they go through a 2 stage salting process. Once you get a fish to bite them they are hard pressed to let it go because there is so much taste for them. Because there is so much craw oil in the plastic it makes the baits very soft which helps release the oils and salt when the bait is bitten. (Shameless Plug I know, but the truth as well)
The Bite!
I have been fishing a jig predominantly for the last few years and have probably experienced every type of bite possible, but then again maybe not, sometimes you don't feel anything at all, then sometimes they almost rip the rod out of your hand, and then you have everything in between, you must always be ready to set the hook.
It is a must to be a line watcher when fishing a jig because you may not always be in direct contact with the lure, and the little twitch in the line that you didn't see could have been a 10 fish or the fish of a lifetime.
One thing I really like to do is know the depth of the water I'm casting to, I feel this is very important, a ½ oz jig on 15lb mono sinks at about 1ft per second. So I know if I'm casting it into 12ft of water and the line stops sinking when I count to 6, something sucked it in, reel in any slack and set the hook.
This is where I believe salts and scents are very handy, normally when I'm fishing a jig I'm fishing some type of structure, rocks, wood, grass, etc. with the equipment on the market you can pretty much feel everything the lure bumps into, when first getting into jig fishing I might have questioned myself was that a fish or a rock, don't know for sure. But now using my own baits and good equipment as well as a lot of time fishing the jig, I have the confidence in them to know that when I feel that little bump, I can pause and wait a second or two to see if there is any activity or lack there of on the end of the line before ramming the hook into a nice bass, or a stump.
Equipment:
For fishing these type and size of jigs, I use a 7' Heavy action bait casting rod, I feel this is very important and will not use a Jig on anything lighter, for a few reasons, 1.) These jigs normally have stout hooks that require a decent amount of force to get good penetration. I don't want to take the chance of losing a big fish because my rod didn't have enough power to drive the hook home, 2.) You have the weed guard to deal with as well when setting the hook. 3.) A lot of times the bass will really clamp down on a jig to crush it making it harder to move the jig on the set to get a good hook set, I noticed this especially with small mouth bass. As for the brand of rod that is personal preference but I think you should get the best you can afford in this area or the added sensitivity.
For a reel, I prefer High speed reels 6.1:1 or 6.3:1 and a decent amount of line retrieval per handle turn. I like this because I can pick up any slack really fast as well as keep up with the fish if it is charging towards me. This is another brand preference issue, I prefer smaller profile reels so I can palm the reel and rest the line going into the reel on my pointer finger for extra sensitivity.
Line
I mainly use 15 lb test mono line for most jig fishing, I don't really go any lighter than that, I will go heavier for certain situations depending on a few factors, structure or cover that I'm fishing, or even the size of the fish I have a chance at catching will dictate the size. In really clear water I will use fluorocarbon line for reduced visibility. And if I need to go above 20 lb mono for any reason I will switch to a braid for line diameter purposes. You can use any of the three all the time, these are just my preferences and how I utilize each for certain situations.
This is not intended to be a know all of Jig fishing document, these are the ways and equipment I personally like to use and have confidence in for the situations I face,(Notice the title) there are so many variables in fishing that could call for a different tactic from the lure type and size, to the tackle and line, it would be impossible to list them all.
Some techniques I use...
When I make a cast I let the bait sink, you must always watch your line, a lot of times they will hit it on the initial fall and your line will either twitch, stop before it should, or start going sideways, when this happens reel up the slack and set the hook. If the bait makes it to the bottom I will wait about 3 or 4 seconds and then drag it about 6-8 inches (Right now he's just cruising on the bottom), then pause, after 3-4 seconds drag again, and repeat this. Once I feel any obstruction, I pause then shake without dragging, I feel this simulates the crayfish trying to burrow under whatever obstacle it just bumped into. Then I give it 2 quick very short snaps, this would simulate the crayfish fleeing from a predator, then let it hit bottom and repeat the whole process. A lot of times right after the pause when you go to drag again it will feel heavy, set the hook. Hook sets are free, If you haven't fished a jig a lot , it takes time before you can get a really good handle on determining fish bites from obstructions. Practice makes perfect and when in doubt set the hook.
That's for mostly open water hump style fishing and beating a bank. In cover I like to throw it in the nastiest stuff possible and shake it around then repeat casting to it (pretty much pick it to pieces.)
Don't ever think there is such a thing as to shallow, I use to cast to about a foot off shore till a guy on the back of my boat beat me bad, the fish were in that spot right on the bank, now I cast to were I'm pretty much hitting the shoreline.
Time to fish: any time you're fishing. Seriously, the only time I don't fish a jig is when the fish are really keyed in on hard baits in the early spring (jerkbaits, traps, cb's). If they're really aggressive and keyed in on shad, I will do that. Also, sometimes in the Fall when fish are chasing shad, you can't put down a trap or topwater.
I fish jigs year round when fishing fairly slow (shallow, deep, and in between).
I usually fish it slow (90% of time). Only exceptions are:
1. swimming a jig around boat docks.
2. stroking a jig on structure (ripping it off the bottom to trigger a fish).
3. Hopping a jig or speed dragging a big football jig on drop offs.
Trailers are mandatory IMO. As a matter of fact I usually trim the skirt back in line with the bottom of the hook to show off the trailer more. The trailer gives it the crawfish look. My favorite trailer is a Zoom Super Chunk (Super Chunk, Jr for finnesse jigs like the Bitsy Bug). I also like the Zoom Super Speed Craw and Sweet Beavers as trailers.
Best way to develop confidence in a jig:
Leave everything else at home. Take three different sizes and go fish it in cover or on deeper rocky banks. The Bitsy Bug is a great place to start, b/c you will get tons of bites on it, giving you a feel for the bite, and helping to build your confidence.
Keep colors simple. Black n blue and some shade of green or pumpkin brown will cover it 90% of the time.
Good luck, and stick with it.
SC
Jigs have got to be an under-rated bait. Me and my partner do not catch many fish but if anyone catches a fish at all....it will be him and he will use a jig to catch it.
I've tried jigs. I have a whole box with them. I have yet to catch a bass on a jig though.
After reading the post above by Joe S., I'm determined to not let him show me up anymore. I think I know what I've been doing wrong now. Not watching the line close enough, not counting, not dragging and bumping like a crawfish, and fishing the jig too fast. I also don't fish cover thoroughly enough.
Great posts guys!
Joe.S was the person that taught me the jig...he describes what to do perfectly.
Without his description i'd still be dumber than a bass on how to work a jig. ;D
Wow....
I didn't expect such a response to the questions that I had. You all have answered all of my questions and then some!!!! I appreciate all of the help guys.
Great write up Joe, I am going to try using a jig for the first time tomorrow. I now feel like I will at least have an idea of what I need to do in order to have a chance in catching a bass with one. There is a great drop off in the Occoquan river that I have been meaning to try, this will give me that opportunity to really hit the deep water (15-20 feet) hard. I have blue, black green and brown jigs and have three different color crawfish ue to use (red, blue and black). Any suggestions on the color crawfish or do I need to buy another color to use. Once again, thanks for the great write up, that is why I love this forum.
Ron
Thanks guys, sorry I didn't see your Q until now my home pc is toast bought a new one and need to send that one back >
I would just match the color to the water your fishing, If I'm fishing deeper than 12 ft and the water is even slighlty stained I will usually 99% of the time go with a black Jig for the visibilty factor
Great post Joe. S
8-)
Well I think this whole "need to learn a jig" has been cured. Good post dudes. Lots of great info. 8-)
WOW awsome article .... what magazine do you work for ... oh wait none thats kuz its better than what they could write
I tend to use a 1/2 oz jig from 12 ft to 1 ft depth. I'll tell you why when you take a 1/2 oz jig and crash it into a spot you give the bass little time to deside to hit your bait. What your doing is making the fish bite when it don't want to. 3/8 oz jig is the most popular weight and the bass see jigs fall at the same rate all the time. Don't be afraid to go light or the other extreme. I have gone behind other boats in tournaments and knocked the socks off the fish by power fishing the used water. If you know a fish is there make a bunch of pitches to the same spot sometimes you can tick the fish off to hit the jig. Always hit the sweet spot first then pick it apart then go back to pick it apart some more giving the area time to chill out for awhile. If the spot is stacked fish will move up in the area and is worth the effert to hit it again. Swimming a jig is an art form that is a killer way to pick up fish. Shad color for clear to stained water, black/chart or black/blue for stained to muddy. Fish it like a spinnerbait but give the bass a sec before setting the hook. Fall through winter this technique is killer just remember to slow it down as the water gets cold.
Great post Joe, extremely informative and detailed. Swim'em, pitch'em, flip'em, drag'em, twitch'em, hop'em, drop'em, bounce'em, burn'em, punch'em, rip'em, soak'em or just make'em dance a JIG.....it's all good
And the key to becoming a true Jig-a-Maniac is "stay with it and learn it", it'll do you proud. Could be the most versatile big fish bait ever. I know it is for us Jig-a-Maniacs.
Big O
www.ragetail.com
Maintain contact with your lure at all times, allow the lure to free-fall unrestricted, but without letting slack form in the line; follow your lures down with your rod tip.
Pay close attention to the depth you're fishing, any sudden change in the amount of line you're using could mean you've been bit. For instance, if you're fishing 10 feet of water and the lure suddenly stops at the 7 depth, it's possible a bass has taken the bait. If you're fishing 5 feet of water and 8 feet of line sinks, chances are good a bass is traveling with the bait. This is extremely true on the initial cast and no line movement maybe noticed.
Strikes will sometimes be so subtle with no line movement that they can go unnoticed if you feel is a spongy sensation, as if the line suddenly got heavy set the hook
Always remember bottom contact is critical!
This is a great thread, I'm glad it resurfaced. From what I've seen recently, a good attractant would up the ante.
Awesome thread! This Saturday will be the first time I ever fish a jig. I am really excited after reading this thread!
Here is an older post I did that might add a couple more ideas under your hat.
http://www.bassresource.com/bass_fishing_forums/YaBB.pl?num=1131171508/0
wowww so much information
greats posts everybody!
After reading this I wanna jig fish lol. I decides this year to try to fish a jig, I very rarely fish one.
Hmm...
Most guy's big fish presentation.
I rarely fish a jig unless I'm fishing for big bass,
but I never fish for anything else!
I have one on a rod all the time. If I ever switch it is b/c I'm punching mats and need to go to a straight shank hook craw.
Throw it in pads, brush, weeds, anywhere.
Take a fishing trip and don't put down the jig rod. Once you get a few bites you will be hooked (is that a pun?)
Be creative with it and have some fun!
check out this video of craws moving around and how fast/far they can dart off if they want to, then keep is in mind when youre figuring out the retrieve they want.
JOE S thanks for the most detailed and helpful reply about jig fishing i have ever read. you obviously like to fish with jigs and have inspired me to continue to practice and get better at fishing with them myself. i remember the first fish i caught with a jig, it was on the fall and it was truly exciting. i had not had much luck with jigs and had all but given up on them when i had caught that fish, and you reminded me just how much fun that was. thanks.
pre- spawn 45-60 degrees.On 9/12/2007 at 11:09 PM, whj812 said:I am new to Jig fishing. I purchased some jigs in hopes to learn how to properly fish them.
I have a couple of questions,
When is the proper time to use a jig?
How do I work the lure?
Are trailers required? and What advantages do they add?
Any help or advice would be appreciated.
I like to use the jig and trailer during pre-spawn in stained water and heavy cover.In clear water I use space monkeys and chigger craws most of the time.
Space Monkeys? I've never heard of those?
On 11/27/2012 at 9:43 AM, theflyman said:Space Monkeys? I've never heard of those?
One of the more versatile baits in the lineup:
http://www.ragetail.com/news/03/rage-tail-space-monkey-comments/
I realize that supporting the sponsors on this site are important and the jigs and Strike King Rage Tail by site sponsors are good products, however they are not the only jigs and trailers to consider when jig fishing.
Date this thread and those specific products may not exist, time has a way of changing how we look at specific brands.
When you look at a jig trailer it represents a crawdad, bait fish or they are creatures. Single and double tails with or without appendage. Mister Twister was the first curl tail soft plastic and they offered curl tails in grubs and worms, some with multiple tail appendages that were good jig trailers 40 years ago!
Reading this thread I was impressed with Catts post; short and to the point; keep in contact with your jig and know exactly what is going on at all times.
Tom
i like your idea of getting your speed right to make the fish bite. but, here is a question. what do you do when you need the speed of your 1/2oz jig, but the bass will not hit the bigger profile of the 1/2oz., as opposed the smaller profile of the 3/8oz.??? that is the thing with jigs. the heavier the weight of the jig, the bigger the profile gets because the head size is bigger. the solution to the problem is to use a 1/4oz. jig with a slip sinker added to your line to get the fall rate you desire. you are still maintaining the smaller profile, but can attain the correct fall rate.On 1/4/2009 at 1:00 AM, Chris said:I tend to use a 1/2 oz jig from 12 ft to 1 ft depth. I'll tell you why when you take a 1/2 oz jig and crash it into a spot you give the bass little time to deside to hit your bait. What your doing is making the fish bite when it don't want to. 3/8 oz jig is the most popular weight and the bass see jigs fall at the same rate all the time. Don't be afraid to go light or the other extreme. I have gone behind other boats in tournaments and knocked the socks off the fish by power fishing the used water. If you know a fish is there make a bunch of pitches to the same spot sometimes you can tick the fish off to hit the jig. Always hit the sweet spot first then pick it apart then go back to pick it apart some more giving the area time to chill out for awhile. If the spot is stacked fish will move up in the area and is worth the effert to hit it again. Swimming a jig is an art form that is a killer way to pick up fish. Shad color for clear to stained water, black/chart or black/blue for stained to muddy. Fish it like a spinnerbait but give the bass a sec before setting the hook. Fall through winter this technique is killer just remember to slow it down as the water gets cold.
bo
Do you really believe that a bass can differentiate that 1/8 oz. difference in the size of the head? I mean, really the profile is the same because it's formed through the skirt and trailer, not the jig head.
WOW! Maybe you can teach an old dog new tricks...
Some of you may find this unbelievable, but I rarely catch fish on the drop.
Almost all my fish are caught working the bottom, a specific piece of cover
or structure. Swim jigs are another animal, but with traditional jigs, I have never
really considered the speed of the fall.
How deep are you usually fishing? That can make a difference. I'd say 90% of my jig fish are on the drop, and not much more than 15'. I rarely leave a jig on the bottom for more than a couple seconds. If I need to work a piece of deep structure, a vertical drop shot is a better tool for me. If there's too much weed cover for that, I use a jika rigged craw.
On 12/1/2012 at 12:03 AM, J Francho said:How deep are you usually fishing? That can make a difference. I'd say 90% of my jig fish are on the drop, and not much more than 15'. I rarely leave a jig on the bottom for more than a couple seconds. If I need to work a piece of deep structure, a vertical drop shot is a better tool for me. If there's too much weed cover for that, I use a jika rigged craw.
Most of mine are 1-3 hops. Fish probably follow it down.
Most of mine are on the bottom as well. The main time they are not are when you pull over something, and then the strike happens. Hardly ever on the initial drop.
Jeff
from my many years of fishing experience yes they can. each head size gets bigger as they get heavier. just take any brand of jig and set a 1/4oz. next to the 3/8oz. model. there is quite a difference in the head profile. often time here on table rock, my partner and i will start out with one using a 1/4oz jig with a 1/4oz slip sinker, and the other will start out with a 3/8oz jig with an 1/8oz sinker to see which set up the bass like the best. a bigger percentage of the time, one set up will get bit, and the other one will not, necessitating one of us to change. the last time i was at falcon, i started out with a 1/2oz jig and was not getting any bites. i changed to a 1/4oz jig with a 1/4oz. slip sinker and just wore them out. i did not change areas in between, but refished where i did not have a bite on the 1/2oz jig. used the same skirt and trailer on both setups. so, yes, the look of the profile of the bait you are using does make a difference to the bass, in my opinion.On 11/30/2012 at 11:17 PM, J Francho said:Do you really believe that a bass can differentiate that 1/8 oz. difference in the size of the head? I mean, really the profile is the same because it's formed through the skirt and trailer, not the jig head.
bo
catching most of your bass right in the bottom and not on the fall can be from a number of factors. topography of the waters you fish can be a factor. and species of bass you are targeting can be a factor. brownies are most often caught on the bottom, and they like to pin their prey to the bottom first many times. kentuckies caught on the bottom on flatter terrain will often times pin the bait to the bottom initially also. when the bass are pinning the bait to the bottom first, that is when you have to develop a knack of knowing that is what they are doing, and wait for the second feel to set the hook. on lakes with vertical bluffs, and or trees, bass using these types of structure will most often be caught with the bait falling. they catch the bait instead of picking it up. even most brownies i catch on bluffs catch the bait on the fall.On 11/30/2012 at 11:31 PM, roadwarrior said:WOW! Maybe you can teach an old dog new tricks...
Some of you may find this unbelievable, but I rarely catch fish on the drop.
Almost all my fish are caught working the bottom, a specific piece of cover
or structure. Swim jigs are another animal, but with traditional jigs, I have never
really considered the speed of the fall.
bo
I will try these techniques. I fish from shore so I don't know how much diff that makes, but I tend to fish a jig like a worm but dont get the same results
I rarely catch jig fish on the initial drop, now with that said, when I am hopping it on the bottom, more times than not, they hit when it is dropping from the height of each single hop.
In my opinion its mainly the type of water your fishing as to weather bass primarily hit on the fall or on the bottom. For instance on the delta (primarily shallow with vegitation) most of the hits come on the fall. When I fish Berryessa (deep rocky resivoir) its a totally different game in most cases. The majority of the bites come on the bottom.
I tried jig fishing for the first time recently and had decent success (3 keeper fish in about 1.5 hours).
I treated it more like a jerk bait and visualized the jig as a crawfish slowly walking on the bottom and then swimming off rapidly in 2-3 quick movements.
So it went something like: Reel veeeery slowly then JERK - JERK! The fish took it usually on the "jerk" and it felt "mushy". The 3rd fish I caught almost felt like weeds or a hang up because it was so close to the boat and it just felt that way. To my surprise, the weeds turned out to be the biggest bass of the day (and my personal best).
On 11/30/2012 at 4:30 PM, merc1997 said:i like your idea of getting your speed right to make the fish bite. but, here is a question. what do you do when you need the speed of your 1/2oz jig, but the bass will not hit the bigger profile of the 1/2oz., as opposed the smaller profile of the 3/8oz.??? that is the thing with jigs. the heavier the weight of the jig, the bigger the profile gets because the head size is bigger. the solution to the problem is to use a 1/4oz. jig with a slip sinker added to your line to get the fall rate you desire. you are still maintaining the smaller profile, but can attain the correct fall rate.
bo
Change the bulk of the skirt to get a faster fall rate or change the trailer to a trailer that is more streamline. To me it isn't the head size that really maters fish at times key into the fall rate or they key into a overall profile size or bulk of the jig. Sometimes just a change in line size can help with speeding up the fall rate along with the other things I mentioned. Something else to consider is when you add a slip sinker to a jig you also change how the jig reacts to cover when it comes in contact with it. the weight might be changing the action of the jig because it slightly hangs on weeds or the it acts like a slip sinker worm and the bait is in one area and the weight in another. When your crashing cover think of it like crashing cover with a crankbait but verically. Each branch changes the direction of the jig slightly much like a crankbait or spinnerbait would. That change in direction along with speed causes a reaction bite. When you make a few pitches and the bait acts different on each pitch because how it is deflecting off of the cover it sends a signal to the bass of live prey. In heavy weeded areas I tend to pitch a flipping tube because it will change directions on the fall much in the same way is a jig does in hard cover. I am not a big fan of throwing jigs in weed cover because I feel that plastics do a better job....but that's just me.
What Bo is saying that a 1/4 oz jig fall slower than. 3/8 is absolutely a fact because the lead weight is 50% heavier and no skirt or trailer will slow down a jig that weighs more. The same is true for a 3/8 oz verses a 1/2 oz, that sighs 33% more, weight is the major factor; line size, trailer water resistance and skirt balk have minor affect, compared to weight.
You should be detecting strikes before the jig hits bottom about 50% of the ime, if not you are probably missing those strikes!
As a general rule expect the bass to strike a jig on the fall as it approaches 5' zone above the bottom to about 6" off the boom. In standing timber or dock pilings the bass can be anywhere along the tree or post. Rocky strucrue is similar to standing wood and can be anywhere holding next to the structure.
The biggest mistake most jig anglers make is waiting until the jigs hits bottom to begin "fishing" the jig.
Tom
Google Strike King Rage Tail Space Monkey.
ok go look up so-slo jigs wrb http://soslo.com/triggerthestrike.html point is those other parts of the jig to include line that are a factor and if you know what your doing can be a major factor in the fall rate and how to tune up what the fish want. With a jig it is all about balance and counter balance meaning your either balancing out the jig for size (over all profile) to what the bass wants and or counter balancing the weight to get the fall rate you need. Btw that is a jig that suspends up in that link.
Chris I am not trying to promote any product, just sharing over 50 years of jig fishing for bass experience. The jig trailer that has worked for me is now nearly obsolete; pork rind with no claws, 3" to 4" long, 1" wide, 1/8" thick with a split tail. No jig trailer on the market today or in the past works better to attract strikes from big bass; simple and very effective. The fall rate with a 7/16 to 1/2 oz, deer hair, living rubber or silicone skirt to depths of 25' has proven to be extremely effective and perfectly balanced using 10 to 14 lb FC or mono line.
I haven't tried Bo's trick to add a 1/8 to 1/4 oz bullet weight to a smaller 1/4 or 3/8 oz jig, but believe it should work at times. I do down size trailers on some lakes like Castiac for example because Castiac bass prefer 11/2 to 2" trailers, where nearly every other lake in California the larger size trailers work better.
Today's lures must look life like, be colorful and have a swimming appeal to be marketable or like the fish catching pork rind, will not sell. Keep in mind bass will not eat a dead crawdad or any prey, it must have some movement, even a slight movement provokes strikes like a Senko slowly falling with tiny movements can be deadly.
Tom
But if you put a chunk of a floating worm ahead of you pork chunk to keep the chunk from slipping up the hook it also helps slow down the jig. The link speaks volumes to what counter balancing can do to a jig and saves me typing so easier to post then to type. Personally I have never owned that product and I have known about it since the 80's but I do take the lesson learned from the concept and use it.
The 3/4" piece of soft plastic finesse worm is used to keep the pork trailer up into the hook bend so ithe pork doesn't foul the jig hook point. The worm piece adds scent, some color, helps the skirt to flare out and very little buoyancy, but is an important component with the old jig & pig.
What is important for any jig angler is knowing the fall rate of the jig they are fishing, so you instinctively know how deep it should be for each second it is falling down. If you don't concentrate on this factor, you will miss strikes, unless the bass is so hot it eats and runs off with it!
Tom
Great thread. To those of you fish jigs deep by casting (not pitching/flipping)...what kind of line you favor? I've switched from Fluorocarbon to braid, but starting to think I might be missing some strike on semi-slack line.
If you lay the pork chunk fatty side up and tapper the front of the trailer with a knife so it looks like a wedge you add more flap to it on the fall which also puts out more vibration and resistance which also slows it down a bit.
I use mono for casting a jig mainly because if I hang it up it is easier to break off when needed. When I am casting I put enough tention on the line to stay incontact with the lure because I don't need the slack for a fall presentation. If you fish it like a worm you will be missing fish.
Surprised...
Braid has improved my jig fishing significantly.
Chris, one of the reason I am using braid is I find it it easier to break off when snagged. I fish jig from banks (no boat on lakes in winter) and with braid I rarely loose jig. I like mono least because I feel a lot less than fluorocarbon or braid.
roadwarrior, I am liking braid once the jig hit the bottom and start working, but when jig is initially falling, so much line is floating creating extra slack compare to fluoro. That got me thinking maybe I am missing bites. I don't know.
On 12/3/2012 at 8:27 AM, Chris said:I use mono for casting a jig mainly because if I hang it up it is easier to break off when needed. When I am casting I put enough tention on the line to stay incontact with the lure because I don't need the slack for a fall presentation. If you fish it like a worm you will be missing fish.
Oh one more, Chris. I think you are saying you lock your reel when you are casting from your boat to shore. That makes sense because the chances are there are not much depth there. I guess I wasn't clear when I said "casting". I meant casting from bank to deeper side of the lake.
there are two ways to let a jig sink. one is with tension on the line, and that will result in a pendulem fall. the other way is to keep a belly in your line as the jig is falling, and this will let the jig fall more vertical, but still be in touch enough to feel a bite. to keep a belly in your line, it must start at the rod tip and continue to where the line enters the water. you must feed line and/or lower you rod tip as the jig is falling. you use this same method when fishing a spoon. you will still be able to feel bites when using braid with this method.On 12/3/2012 at 3:58 AM, Loop_Dad said:Great thread. To those of you fish jigs deep by casting (not pitching/flipping)...what kind of line you favor? I've switched from Fluorocarbon to braid, but starting to think I might be missing some strike on semi-slack line.
bo
On 12/3/2012 at 12:16 PM, merc1997 said:there are two ways to let a jig sink. one is with tension on the line, and that will result in a pendulem fall. the other way is to keep a belly in your line as the jig is falling, and this will let the jig fall more vertical, but still be in touch enough to feel a bite. to keep a belly in your line, it must start at the rod tip and continue to where the line enters the water. you must feed line and/or lower you rod tip as the jig is falling. you use this same method when fishing a spoon. you will still be able to feel bites when using braid with this method.
bo
Exactly, Bo, however I think the belly would be bigger with braid. Like this diagram:
When you are casting far from bank, the difference might be big enough to make a difference in detecting subtle bites during the drop. I'm planning on experimenting more with flouro and braid.
the belly that i am talking about is the one that starts at your rod tip to the water. you line needs to belly down from your rod tip to the water. by doing this, you will not impede the drop on your lure. if i knew how to post a video on here, i would make a video to show what i am talking about. i watch many fisherman fish their lures, even spoons, and their fishing line from the rod tip to the water is in a straight line. this means you always have tension on your lure which will cause it to swing back toward you and not fall straight to the bottom. sometimes with worms or jigs a swinging motion can be effective. but, with lures such as a spoon, a swinging motion will not let the spoon flutter and dart. take your drawing, and flip it upside down. your jig on the bottom is your rod tip. the lines are your fishing line, and the water surface is where your fishing line is entering the water. now, you can see you have made a belly in your line, but you are in contact with your bait. if you have slack line laying on top of the water, you do not want that. the correct way is to have belly in your line to the point of contact with the water. your bait will fall straight down, but you will still be able to feel a bite. hope this will clarify what i am trying to say.On 12/3/2012 at 2:04 PM, Loop_Dad said:Exactly, Bo, however I think the belly would be bigger with braid. Like this diagram:
When you are casting far from bank, the difference might be big enough to make a difference in detecting subtle bites during the drop. I'm planning on experimenting more with flouro and braid.
bo
If it's not windy you watch the V the line is cutting through the water surface as a strike indicator during the initial drop. Braid floats well and you can watch the line move easier than FC. I almost always fish big worms when working up hill from shore and casting out into deep water, jigs are very difficult fish uphill.
The small diameter of 15 lb super braid is difficult to cast with a bait casting reel, if you are making a long cast over 90', backlash is a $itch to pull out with cold fingers! You need a longer FC leader; about 7' with a 7' rod, the knot between the 1st guide and reel and the knot must go out through all the guides smoothly.
I use 14 lb FC Shooter line because of knot strength issues and I hate to make long cast with braid, unless fishing heavy cover. I will 8 lb FluoroClear in water over 25' in the winter sometimes to get the jig to sink a little faster, less drag on smaller diameter line.
Tom
1. I use mono because I want to break off the lure without disturbing the area and spooking the fish. When I am fishing I am more worried about loosing the opertunity to get the fish than loosing a lure. (yes lure companies love guys like me I think I should have stock in some of them)
2. When I am fishing deep for the most part I am fishing like a point or brush pile or some other item on the bottom. I cast beyond the object and bring the jig to it. I am not looking for a vertical presentation.
3. If my aim is for me to get in the general area where my cast ends up I do strip off line so that the lure will drop more vertically. The problem is that it is hard to get a lure to drop exactly where you want it 100% of the time.
4. With tention you risk the lure swinging away from your target on a cast. With slack line or stripping off line for a more vertical fall you still need to either be a line watcher or be good at figuring out if a fish is on your jig on the take up when you put tention on your line.
5. There are times where I sweep the jig off the bottom and let it swing and swim to the bottom and other times where you want to let the jig to swim or swing through a like a thermocline or area that the fish are holding.
6. If I am getting bites before the lure hits the bottom then maybe the bottom isn't where I should be fishing.
I have no doubt that you might be missing fish I think we all miss them mostly from human error me included. The only way to curb this is to pay attention on every presentation so that your more aware of what your jig and the fish are doing. If you have a hard time feeling the bottom or strike go for a heavier jig or a more sensitive line.
It may be a surprise to some, but I don't fish jigs to catch bass in general. I fish jigs to catch big bass, if I'am fun fishing or just fishing to catch 2 to 4 lb bass, jigs are not my lure of choice. Nearly every other lure is usually better choice for average size bass. With that in mind the bass I am targeting are large adult size bass, hopefully the largest in the lake! The big bass prefer to eat high protein prey and Crawdads are high protein.
Large baitfish are also high protein prey and that is where a swimbait or a giant worm comes into play.
The jigs I am using represent Crawdads in color, profile and movement.
Your best opportunity to get a strike is when a big bass first see's your jig when it swims down to the bottom at the end of your cast. When you cast and the lure hits the water any big bass within hearing distance is aware something hit the surface, even in deep water, and they are looking to see what it was. If the water is clear enough they can see a long distance. If the bass is active feeding it will react. If the bass isn't active it may not react. When you consider bass are only active about 10% of the time, the odds are small that a bass will react and go strike your jig. If you know big bass are in the area, keep visiting the spot every few hours and you may get lucky and put your jig near an active big bass. If you do everything right, detect the strike, you have a change at a bass of a lifetime!
Jigs are without question the most difficult lure to learn how to fish consistantly, bass strike and reject a jig faster than any other lure, so you must concentrate all the time on every cast. The upside is jigs catch big bass!
Tom
On 12/4/2012 at 7:20 AM, WRB said:It may be a surprise to some, but I don't fish jigs to catch bass in general. I fish jigs to catch big bass, if I'am fun fishing or just fishing to catch 2 to 4 lb bass, jigs are not my lure of choice. Nearly every other lure is usually better choice for average size bass. With that in mind the bass I am targeting are large adult size bass, hopefully the largest in the lake! The big bass prefer to eat high protein prey and Crawdads are high protein.
Large baitfish are also high protein prey and that is where a swimbait or a giant worm comes into play.
The jigs I am using represent Crawdads in color, profile and movement.
Your best opportunity to get a strike is when a big bass first see's your jig when it swims down to the bottom at the end of your cast. When you cast and the lure hits the water any big bass within hearing distance is aware something hit the surface, even in deep water, and they are looking to see what it was. If the water is clear enough they can see a long distance. If the bass is active feeding it will react. If the bass isn't active it may not react. When you consider bass are only active about 10% of the time, the odds are small that a bass will react and go strike your jig. If you know big bass are in the area, keep visiting the spot every few hours and you may get lucky and put your jig near an active big bass. If you do everything right, detect the strike, you have a change at a bass of a lifetime!
Jigs are without question the most difficult lure to learn how to fish consistantly, bass strike and reject a jig faster than any other lure, so you must concentrate all the time on every cast. The upside is jigs catch big bass!
Tom
This man knows what he's talking about
NGaHB
This site is the best. Its because of guys like tom and some others who reply often and spew their hard earned knowledge for the rest of us for free. The more time one spends on this great site the better angler he becomes.I wish i had something more to add to this topic but these guys blow me away.
On 12/4/2012 at 9:52 AM, aceman387 said:This site is the best. Its because of guys like tom and some others who reply often and spew their hard earned knowledge for the rest of us for free. The more time one spends on this great site the better angler he becomes.I wish i had something more to add to this topic but these guys blow me away.
+1
And thread like Senko $3.89, which I missed.
tom made a great statement about a jig being a big bass bait. i can also tell you from my years of fishing that i have caught, at least ten to one, big bass on a jig than all other lures combined. the close seconds would be a big worm, a jerk bait in the winter, and a big six inch plastic crawdad fished on a jig head in the late summer. i have stated it before, and i state it again, in my opinion, a jig is the best fishing tool in the tackle box!
bo
I agree with some of the comments that were provided to your topic, and here's my two cents...
The versatility of jig fishing makes it an important tool in most any fishermans arsenal and for any size or type of predator fish desired, especially BASS. The variety of jig styles, shapes and sizes are produced for the many different uses and presentations that are effective. The only thing difficult to learn about jig fishing is the multitude of presentations and styles of fishing that are available with them. Any single style of jig fishing is relatively EASY to master, so don't let one particular style of fishing intimidate you or keep you from attempting to learn it!
Swimming a jig is effective at times and the style of trailers can be changed, such as short compact, long and narrow, or shapes according to the preferred prey species at any given time. You can basically retrieve them much like a spinnerbait with occassional twitches, drops and/or retrieve speed changes depending on the fish's request. Also at any desired depth.
Jigs can also be flipped/pitched, used to punch matted grass, casted and worked slowly through most any type of cover or fished vertically over certain types deeper structure if necessary.
You can use skirted jigs or naked jigs with any variety of trailers and soft plastics including Big worms and swimbaits, mounted on them depending on what you find the fish are wanting most.
To help answer some of your specific questions:
When is the proper time to use a jig?
There is never a bad time to have a jig tied on, except when you have found a more successful pattern on another bait style. Often when you've caught several fish in one area on other baits and the bite slows, a jig can pick up those fish that wouldn't eat your first choice.
How do I work the lure?
Depending on your chosen type of water or structure being fished, would determine your style of jig and presentation or best retrieve style.
For flipping /pitching, make accurate pitches to your target and keep the water entry or splash to a minimum especially in calm conditions. In windy conditions, it's not as important and the splash may even help with the bite. Allow the bait to fall on a slack line paying close attention to the line for a twitch or pause prior to it reaching the bottom. Any pause or twitch will often signal a bite from a suspended fish. Reel down to feel the fish and swing on it, keeping the rod back at full pressure until the fish exits the obstruction. If the jig reaches the bottom without a bite, lift the rod tip to feel the jig and pause for a second with a tight line. If there is no fish, short jump the jig once or twice allow to settle back to the bottom and repeat the process of feel etc. If no fish, retrieve the jig slowly back up through the limbs with light twitches and falls over each limb as it slides over. The speed of the fall is extremely important and the weight of your jig, size and type of line used, amount of wind present, size and bulk of the trailer, or the amount of drag represented by the trailer action are most of the determining factors for fall rate... Faster fall is often better for this presentation because the bite is normally a quick reaction strike. As usual, water clarity, amount of daylight and wind conditions will make color more important and require tweaking as needed.
Football jigs are excellent for fishing large and medium SMOOTH rock, small rock, shell, gravel, or hard bottoms. The benefit to Football jigs is their ability to keep the trailer in an upright position as it is moving across the bottom and the amount of noise or bottom disturbance that results when it is slowly walked or drug along the bottom. This noise is very beneficial for fish that aren't actually in or near the jigs path back to the boat. The noise and vibration produced will attract fish from several feet or even yards away and will cause them to come and investigate the commotion. This is especially important in low visibility conditions or deep water. It's VERY important to let the fish tell you their preference on presentation or retrieve style. MOST often, the fish want a SLOW short drag or hop then PAUSE presentation, to allow the fish to locate the jig and STRIKE. The pause is EXTREMELY important when dragging jigs slowly across the bottom, and has proven to be the ticket in 90% of my jig fishing experiences over the last 45 yrs. When I know that the fish are there, my pauses and speed of the jig movement will SLOW even more!
Have you Ever Fished for a Cat? I'm talking about a HOUSE CAT! Pull a small toy on a string and pause.... after several series of CAT attacks, you'll notice that often, the "It's ALIVE" movement or action gets the cats attention and the PAUSE makes him POUNCE. When the cat is hesitant to attack, small motion with longer pauses is better. Swinging or dragging the toy near the cat causes a reaction strike but if it's further away, they may move in quickly to close the distance and STALK it. I wish that I could always make a perfect presentation or cast in front of a Bass or drag it near their nose EVERYTIME, LOL.
Definitely, more fish are caught after the jig touches the bottom (unless flipping/pitching) and more often during the slow bottom bumping process that ensues. Of course you can catch bass that are suspended in open water with jigs making the fall rate and appearance even more important... locating these types of opportunities can sometimes be a big challenge. An easier solution, is once you find the depths that the bass and bait are holding or suspended at, you can then then find bottom structure at that same depth to fish which may make your fishing more successful.
For large or medium JAGGED rock and just about ANY casting situation, stand up head designs like Siebert Outdoors Brush jig or Moaner hooks Predator jig hold the trailer in a stand up position and snag much less than a football style which is preferable in many situations. They're great for Flipping as well, which makes them extremely versatile.
Are trailers required? and What advantages do they add?
IMO, YES and the more action the trailer can provide on the fall or slowest of retrieve speeds the better, regardless of water temps. Here are my thoughts on this:
Although it is not what many have preached in the past and possibly different than many still believe today, I have found from my many yrs of jig fishing along with fishing beside some of the best in the business, that regardless of water temps, the additional bait action on the fall or with minimum movement of the rod tip, makes a bass eat faster! I think that while fishing jigs, soft plastics or other slow style bottom bumpers in cold conditions when fish are more dormant, it is your speed of movement of the bait... or the speed that you cover any given piece of water that determines your bite success and not because of less action from your chosen bait. When you find fish in colder conditions, it's important to be closer to them with your presentation for a longer period of time, to allow them to become aware of your baits presence, and any additional action of your bait will only speed up this process. In fact many times, once a given group of fish are disturbed by one of them eating, often the rest of them wake up and become more eager to eat as well! It's about your bait or presentation disturbing their slumber enough to get them to strike, and high action baits along with a slower more diligent presentation will do exactly that... again IMO.
It's important to look at past thought processes, types of baits that were available to the market that had no action other than what was achieved through rod tip movement. Also look at the variety of popular cold water baits that are effective. Then dissect the process to determine why. A quick example is crankbait and Rattletrap style baits which are popular in cold water conditions, can be heard from extreme distances and disturb a bass' slumber from afar only to get smashed when it arrives in front of the fish... The fish is alerted previously from the noise and vibration that is coming ever closer and bringing a fish out of it's slumber, then they EAT when it arrives. How fast was the action on that bait?
A bit more information on the advantages of trailers: Jigs may represent any number of prey species or opportunities to a bass or other predator fish, so the style of trailer can be easily adjusted or changed to accommodate the need or look. You can choose matching colors or contrasting colors and switch from one to another easily, which is often needed to TWEAK the bite to Optimum results.
1) In CLEAR water and conditions, the use of clearer lines like flouro, or smaller dia.is important. Also the fish can see the bait better from further away. As they close in to investigate to see if it is REAL, more natural colors and some kind of trailer action during the even the slowest of rod tip or retrieve motion can gain the visual priority causing the fish to commit to the bite more easily.
2) In low light, stained or deep water conditions: The noise, vibration, action, size or profile of your total jig and trailer combination should be increased to make the bait felt, seen or heard easier. This also gives cause for a slower more diligent presentation to give the bass time to locate your bait.
FYI , Braid isn't great for sharp rocks or super clear water and conditions, but will work great otherwise and especially when flipping/pitching is necessary.
There are many more details that could be added that are important to understand about jig fishing, but hope this helps to answer your questions
Is this a great thread or what!
On 12/5/2012 at 3:32 AM, roadwarrior said:Is this a great thread or what!
This is such a great thread you should sticky it to the top of the page sir. Hint, hint
Okay, pinned!
The thread is still open for anyone to add their thoughts.
-Kent
Big-o just made this thread of the year. Great write up sir!
Good write up Big-O.
The bass I fish for rarely give you enough time to reel down, feel the fish and set the hook. if you did that you will miss 99% of the strikes on a jig that you are working along the bottom or fishing on the fall. This is the big difference between FLMB and NLMB strains; big Florida's can and do reject a traditional jig in the blink of an eye. My general rule is smaller bass are very easy to detect a strike, the bigger the bass the more difficult strike detection is. For this reason learning to jig fish is the most difficult lure to master....so we just agree to disagree on that point.
To me the most important elements is becoming a good jig angler is using a jig with a premium sharp hook, that matches the line size you use and the jig head design/weight. A list of 10 common jigs;
Arkie head
Ball head
Brush head
Dart head
Fish head
Football head
Standup head
Snootie head
Shaky head
Scrounger head
The Arkie head is what I refer to as a traditional jig with a fiber weed guard and the most common jig.
There are some excellent custom jig head designs for specific applications, none can do everything well.
A real eye opener to learn strike detection with a jig is to bed fish in clear water where you can watch a bass strike your jig! You will be amazed how quick a strike can occur and how little feedback you detect. This is a good training lesson, not that I am promoting bed fishing, that is something I avoid, but to see how fast strikes occur and what little time you have to get a hook set. Bed bass are not eating your jig, there are killing it, the same way they kill a live crawdad.
Because big bass will reject a jig quickly, most anglers miss the strike a very high percentage of the time.
This is why how you hold your rod and reel becomes critical. With a bait casting reel you should be feeling the line at all times when the jig is in the water. I run the line under the thumb and over the tip of my index finger. With this method you can feel the slightest line movement and improve your strike detection and catch more big bass. Today's bass anglers have the belief their rods are so sensitive they can feel anything that touches their lures. I have heard this statement for over 30 years now and no rod will ever be more sensitive than your finger tip.
Tom
Quote]A real eye opener to learn strike detection with a jig is to bed fish in clear water where you can watch a bass strike your jig! You will be amazed how quick a strike can occur and how little feedback you detect.
This is huge.
On 9/13/2007 at 1:46 AM, Joe. S said:Don't ever think there is such a thing as to shallow, I use to cast to about a foot off shore till a guy on the back of my boat beat me bad, the fish were in that spot right on the bank, now I cast to were I'm pretty much hitting the shoreline.
Great point - often times the action of a jig hopping off the bank into the water is what will alert or trigger a response. I've caught several largemouth this way. Same approach I use when working any soft plastic, including a topwater frog.
I haven't fished Casitas or Castaic in Cal. so those fish may be different animals! Someday, I hope to give'em a go and maybe fish with you West Coast Guys
I quit site fishing 30 yrs ago and found that I could catch more big fish if I concentrated on where they live most through out the year. The majority of my jig fish are Cast/Drag. My home waters are in Tx and many of them have FLMB, so many of my Bigger fish are FLMB. Also, I learned to jig fish in Fla waters back in the 60's and early 70's spending weeks on the water there several times a year.
IMO, EXPERIENCED anglers with the proper tools in low wind situations, who maintain constant contact with their jig, can detect up to 98% of the strikes, pick-ups etc. regardless of the size of the fish. The difference between small fish and large fish are normally noticable but the bites are detectable just the same. For a FACT, many of the hardest and most jarring strikes are BIG fish. Many of the bigger fish are NOT so finicky as some may suggest. Big Fish are BIG EATERS and the most prolific feeders of their species. The real trick is finding them.
If a fish is taking and rejecting your jig, it's because they questioned it's appearance or validity as food and made a quick ck on it, because they don't like the taste/scent, because they felt pressure from the line, or from aggravation to kill it or move it out of their comfort zone
Back to the basics: When casting jigs, I only use jigs that are designed to hold the bait in an upright position during the drag or bottom bumping process. This presents my Rage CRAW or Lobster trailer UP off of the bottom which is easier for a fish to see and bite without getting a mouthful of mud, muck or rocks. It also puts the CRAW in a defensive posture which can generate a more aggressive strike from the fish..
All of this information is simple to learn and makes common sense... so there is no real art to jig fishing, only many different styles and presentations in jig fishing.
IMO, if you can find the fish, with the proper tools you can learn the Cast/Drag jig technique in but a few moments.
Wealth of knowledge displayed throughout this thread for all to learn & enjoy. Thanks for all the info bass resource members.
i will agree that equipment is better now than it used to be. BUT, those that hold the rod behind the reel, or even palm the reel, do not feel the really subtle bites that you can when you are touching the line. second, if you really think you feel all of your bites, you need to take a look back at the film footage that done of big bass inhaling and spitting our a big crankbait, and the guy behind the rod never knew anything had happened. i two have watched bass on a bed with an underwater camera and could see the bass take in my partners lure, and he never knew anything had happened, and the bass had spit out his lure. these are nlmb that i have observed. now everytime that i hollered jerk when the bass took the lure in, my buddy caught everyone. so, i will agree with tom that really big bass, most of the time, the bite is really subtle and sometimes not detectable. i have also caught many flmb, especially at lake falcon. when you can feel a bite, it is a little one. the ones that you just do not feel much of nothing, they are almost always a very big bass. i think that i catch my share of pretty big bass, but i will also be the first one to tell you that it would absolutely scare me to death at how many big ones had my jig in their mouth, and i never knew it.On 12/6/2012 at 12:32 AM, Big-O said:I haven't fished Casitas or Castaic in Cal. so those fish may be different animals! Someday, I hope to give'em a go and maybe fish with you West Coast Guys
I quit site fishing 30 yrs ago and found that I could catch more big fish if I concentrated on where they live most through out the year. The majority of my jig fish are Cast/Drag. My home waters are in Tx and many of them have FLMB, so many of my Bigger fish are FLMB. Also, I learned to jig fish in Fla waters back in the 60's and early 70's spending weeks on the water there several times a year.
IMO, EXPERIENCED anglers with the proper tools in low wind situations, who maintain constant contact with their jig, can detect up to 98% of the strikes, pick-ups etc. regardless of the size of the fish. The difference between small fish and large fish are normally noticable but the bites are detectable just the same. For a FACT, many of the hardest and most jarring strikes are BIG fish. Many of the bigger fish are NOT so finicky as some may suggest. Big Fish are BIG EATERS and the most prolific feeders of their species. The real trick is finding them.
If a fish is taking and rejecting your jig, it's because they questioned it's appearance or validity as food and made a quick ck on it, because they don't like the taste/scent, because they felt pressure from the line, or from aggravation to kill it or move it out of their comfort zone
Back to the basics: When casting jigs, I only use jigs that are designed to hold the bait in an upright position during the drag or bottom bumping process. This presents my Rage CRAW or Lobster trailer UP off of the bottom which is easier for a fish to see and bite without getting a mouthful of mud, muck or rocks. It also puts the CRAW in a defensive posture which can generate a more aggressive strike from the fish..
All of this information is simple to learn and makes common sense... so there is no real art to jig fishing, only many different styles and presentations in jig fishing.
IMO, if you can find the fish, with the proper tools you can learn the Cast/Drag jig technique in but a few moments.
bo
i just remember the nzme of the gentleman that did the film of the bass taking the crankbait in, glen lau. i would also guess that glen has viewed more big bass up close and personal than the rest of us.
bo
What you call cast/drag, I call horizontal jigging; casting a jig like you would a T-rigged plastic worm. The difference is a T-rigged plastic worm floats off the bottom slightly and the hook isn't molded onto the weight.
When a bass strikes a T-rigged worm, the weight can slide away from the worm and a bass will hold onto the worm or swallow the worm given enough slack line. A jig different, the weight is molded onto the hook and covers about 1/3rd of the hook shank, so the weight goes into the basses mouth all the way back to the crunchers and the bass then clamps down onto the jig. The jig doesn't feel right and out it goes! The bigger the bass is, the quicker it is rejected. It doesn't matter if the bass is in Texas, California or anywhere else, the bigger the bass, the more difficult it is to get a hook set. What is different in California is our gin clear water and small size lakes in SoCal, Nor Cal the lakes are larger, the water off color and good cover, more like bass water across the country.
I logged my first 100 DD bass in '73 and stopped fishing with live bait and bed fishing in '71, both personal choices and have strong commitment to fish lures for bass. I have been blessed to catch several FLMB over 15 lbs on jigs and 2 that exceed theTexas state record; 19.3 & 18.6, both on jigs. For me it has been very challenging to catch DD bass on jigs and have spent well over 40 years trying to detect the very suttle strikes. So we have very different experiences. I have had a few freight train strikes on jigs, 2 that I can recall. Most strikes are a light tick, some are nothing, like the jig line was cut off...you must stay focused!
Tom
PS; night bass fishing is very different, most jig strikes at night are aggressive and easy to detect!
tom
sometimes the bite at night can be where you get that nice tick everytime, but that is not often. most of my big bass at night are nothing bites. a lot of them, just the pressure of the line, as the jig is falling or swinging will change. that is why i say that most people never even know that just happened to them. especially when anyone is holding the rod behind the reel or even palming to some extent. holding the rod in front of the reel with the line under the thumb or between thumb and index finger like you do, gives anyone much better feel. also, when holding the rood in front of the reel, you have the weight of the reel behind you hand to help provide speed and leverage in setting the hook.
bo
95% of all my biggest bass, have been on jigs, and I can say, that I felt a hit on all of them, except maybe one or two. I mostly fish jigs "horizontally", and always feel a thwack, especially when swimming a jig. Must be peoples' diferent styles of fishing for sucess one way or the other. Not saying I don't miss hits, because I know I have, and I'm sure I'll miss some more.
My night bass fishing is limited due to the fact our small local trophy bass lakes were closed to fishing from 7:30 PM to 6:30 AM year around, no night fishing! This changed back in 1995 and the lakes were at the end of the boom period of big bass. The only way you could fish was during a charity tournament the first few years, then the tournaments expanded to about 6 events a year during the summer months; start time 8 PM to 1 AM.
My first night tournament I caught 58 lbs for 5 bass, all on jigs, it was like fishing a private lake the bass were stupid and very aggressive! That all changed as the bass became educated to night fishing, but they are still more aggressive at night then the day time and tend to be up in 3' to 15' of water. May be I should have fished deeper to 35' and probably missed some big bass by fishing too shallow! Deeper bass are a lot more difficult to feel the strike for several reasons, mostly water pressure creating more line drag.
The advantage at night is your senses are heightened and sense of feel is sharp because you can't see very well, a tick becomes a thump!
I know for a fact that most bass anglers miss strikes from big bass often. I have taken out some very skilled bass tournament anglers to teach them how to fish a casting jig and watched nearly all of those anglers miss strikes.
Tom
Another Classic Thread and Joe S.
If your jig setup closely resembles this image or profile... chances are you're going to feel the bite This is always the basic look and angle that I try to produce when fishing Jig n Craws. I rarely fish a Jig at much more than a SLOW pace, trying to touch every inch of the bottom between where it lands on the cast all the way to the boat, with several pauses along the way to invite the confrontation. If there is a drop into the channel or deeper water, let it fall on a slack line and watch your line for a pause or small jump prior to hitting the bottom. I most often fish down the slope toward deeper water allowing the jig to fall over each step on the way or parallel the structure at a certain depth after the fish have signaled their preferred depth. Many of the seemingly insignificant steps or drops are often where it happens so take your time.
For those of you who are having a hard time feeling a jig bite, there are many factors involved to provide more sensitivity, especially the rod, the rod angle in relation to the waters surface and keeping as much bow out of your line as possible. This gives you as much feel or more direct contact to your bait as possible. Don't be afraid to go BIG... Slightly heavier jigs, line with less stretch and shorter casts will improve your sensitivity substantially. Avoid crosswinds when at all possible and make your casts WITH or directly INTO the wind for improving your ability to feel the bite.
I love jigs
I can tell you that a fish can inhale and exhale a bait faster than you ever could react. When I was guiding people learning to fish nymphs on a fly rod I often had them set the hook at random times just to prove this point. I cant tell you how many hundreds of trout I have hooked on a nymph where there was never even the slightest detection of a strike on a 100% drag free czech style drift with 5x fluorocarbon.
Fish mouth stuff just to see what it is. Theyre like a kid with no hands.
On 12/13/2012 at 5:30 AM, jhoffman said:.
Fish mouth stuff just to see what it is. Theyre like a kid with no hands.
Lerv it.
Jigs are great winter time baits. Just slow down!
Jeff
One of the most telling video's I saw was KVD fishing cranks on Hook and Look. Multiple times the bass would inhale the crankbait and KVD felt nothing. This was a moving bait, jig bites would be even harder to detect, and the last I checked KVD was a pretty good fisherman.
With that said, Big O is making some great suggestions on improving bite detection. The saying "hook sets are free" holds very true for jigs. If you feel or see anything odd, set the hook.
On 1/3/2013 at 9:27 PM, 00 mod said:Jigs are great winter time baits. Just slow down!
Jeff
My winter isn't like your winter. As I've mentioned before I'm not a bass jig & trailer fisherman, but I've been using them the last 2 days. Yesterday was ok 4-5 in about 75 minutes, not great but ok. Today I struggled for close to an hour with about 3 fish, then it dawned on me.....a fish is a fish and how is it different than a snook, I started to swim my jigs with a wavering motion like I do for snook. It took a few minutes to get comfortable with my cadence, then I was on fire, didn't count but there could have been 12 -15 fish landed over the next 45 minutes quite a few 4-5 #. All this in a 1/4 mile stretch of a canal on foot.
I've been enjoying the Nichols 1/2 oz watermelon red jig with a sweet mama in watermelon red trailer.
Amazing post from some of the best fisherman out there. Seeing how they differ in opinion is great, shows that there is more than one way to skin a cat. Take what you want from each and make your own way. I learned how to jig fish from this forum and always have one tied on and usually fish it more than anything else. I would love to fish with Big O, Cat, and WRB. These three have told countless tales and tips to help the everyday fisherman for years on this forum. They each have their own style, each fish a different part of the lake or different part of the country. Each learned from trial and error on what works from them. This discussion shed more light on jig fishing than most could learn in a lifetime of weekend fishing. Thank you all for your contributions to this post and please add more.
I'm new to jig fishing, one of my goals this year is to be come better at it and be able to throw them with confidence. Right now, I'm not there by any stretch.
One question I do have is this - what makes you decide between a finesse style jig vs. a a normal casting/flipping jig? Are you supposed to fish a finesse jig in a different manner vs. a normal jig (other then just lighter line/rod action)? I noticed on most finesse jigs, the skirt flares out at the head of the jig, where most normal jigs it's flush. Not sure why that is ...
When i'm not in my kayak on the river, I'm usually fishing from the bank on my local lakes/ponds in no more then 6 feet of water. My gut is telling me I should be throwing a finesse style jig for a more subtle presentation, but I'm not sure. They're not heavily pressured lakes/ponds.
The reason a finesse jig flares at that top is it causes the skirt to fold back and slow the fall rate of the jig. Finesse jigs are built for tough conditions and feeding strikes vs reaction strikes.
When is proper time to use a jig? Well jigs are a very good choice for all times of the year. In the winter i like a football jig crawled over rocks, in the prespawn i will swim jigs around shallow grass but will also flip them around docks and grass. They are great for skippin docks in the summer and I also love to use them around vegitation and matted grass. i like to use jigs in the 3/8, 1/2 and 3/4 oz sizes. then in the fall i will look for harder cover like wood or any living vegitation.
How do you work the lure? you can pop jigs through grass, crawl football jigs around rock, but i usually just pick the jig up and drop it for most applictions. I catch probably 40% of my fish on jigs and they are very deadly at all times of the year. you can also swim jigs arund shallow grass and ocationally jerk it during the retreive.
Trailers are required they add action and bulk to the jig but you will haveto experiment with sizes and styles to find what you prefer. i like more action in the summer and less in the spring winter and fall. My favorite trailers are SK rage craws, Berkley chigger craws and Sk chunks for my non swiming jigs. for my swimming jigs i like grubs and rage tail craws.
i hope this is helpfull!
On 9/12/2007 at 11:09 PM, whj812 said:I am new to Jig fishing. I purchased some jigs in hopes to learn how to properly fish them.
I have a couple of questions,
When is the proper time to use a jig?
How do I work the lure?
Are trailers required? and What advantages do they add?
Any help or advice would be appreciated.
i like flipping jigs for most applications. But when you get cold fronts and colder water temps which slow down the fish i will go with the finesse jig.
Fish this type of jig slower with longer pauses and less agresive pops adn you will be sucsesfull. But just experiment with both of them to gain confidence.
On 2/28/2013 at 11:28 PM, Tpost said:I'm new to jig fishing, one of my goals this year is to be come better at it and be able to throw them with confidence. Right now, I'm not there by any stretch.
One question I do have is this - what makes you decide between a finesse style jig vs. a a normal casting/flipping jig? Are you supposed to fish a finesse jig in a different manner vs. a normal jig (other then just lighter line/rod action)? I noticed on most finesse jigs, the skirt flares out at the head of the jig, where most normal jigs it's flush. Not sure why that is ...
When i'm not in my kayak on the river, I'm usually fishing from the bank on my local lakes/ponds in no more then 6 feet of water. My gut is telling me I should be throwing a finesse style jig for a more subtle presentation, but I'm not sure. They're not heavily pressured lakes/ponds.
Do you have a max weight jig per certain lb test?
Example is you have 12lb test on your reel, do you not throw over a 3/8 or 1/2 oz?
On 3/27/2013 at 1:21 AM, Diggy said:Do you have a max weight jig per certain lb test?
Example is you have 12lb test on your reel, do you not throw over a 3/8 or 1/2 oz?
Kind of. It's more of one of those situations that if you are fishing an area that requires a heavier jig weight you are already using heavier line. i.e punching grass, pitching brush, etc.
As long as you aren't using a dud of a line, 12lb (i'm assuming fluoro) would be fine for open water or light cover 3/8 and 1/2oz jigs but i would prefer and use 15lb for those situations. 15 will be a better choice for more moderate cover as well.
On 3/27/2013 at 1:21 AM, Diggy said:Do you have a max weight jig per certain lb test?
Example is you have 12lb test on your reel, do you not throw over a 3/8 or 1/2 oz?
If I'm throwing a light jig, I won't use a heavy fluoro. That's sort of the opposite of what you asked.
I have 12lb flouro and hybrid on most reels
1 reel with 50lb braid and 1 with 65
I have jigs ranging up to finesse?? to 1.5 oz.
I fish mainly with the 12lb test fluoro reel on MH rods
The rods I have seem to max out at 1oz and feel a bit overpowered with some of the heavier jigs with trailers, I will step it up to a Heavy powered rod shortly
Ill probably stick to the 3/8th and under on them then until I beef up the line and gear. Thanks
I've just read this entire thread and first and foremost I need to say thank you to all the experienced anglers. This thread is perfect for new guys and has made decide to dedicate myself to jig fishing. Hit or miss, I'll give it my best and hopefully learn along the way.
I have a stupid question. If I'm fishing a jig with a trailer (let's say a Strike King Craw) can I leave the bait on the jig and use it over and over or should I remove it or use only one per "session".
Thanks for a fantastic site and advice.
For the last several weeks I'm using 1 outfit about 95% of the time for my Florida canal fishing, Med 7' 8/17 spinning rod with 12# Supercast line. It's been working well and with the water dropping weeds and slop are coming more into play.
If the jig is not damaged I don't see any reason to discard it.
joe I really liked your write up. I have been fishing jigs for over 60 yrs over 90% of my fishing is with either a jig or a plastic worm. Only difference between you and me is I throw lighter jigs in the spring when the fish are running on the channel banks. All the way down to 3/16 on 10 lb mono. I use mono on everything because I can detect line wear real easy. Here on Lake of the Ozark's that is a something you need to do a lot because you fish over dock hardware such as steel cables and beam a awful lot.
On 4/2/2013 at 10:24 AM, mtaag3 said:I have a stupid question. If I'm fishing a jig with a trailer (let's say a Strike King Craw) can I leave the bait on the jig and use it over and over or should I remove it or use only one per "session".
I'm new to jig fishing this year, so take this with an appropriately-sized grain of salt.
I would think there's no reason to discard the plastic assuming it's still holding together. However, since many trailers have salt and scents in them, you may find they prematurely rust your hook if left on there (especially the more salt there is).
So, you can re-use the plastic, but you probably should take it off the hook for storage. With softer plastics, that on/off might lead to more tearing and the need to be replaced more frequently.
My $.02, and I expect change.
Well, I sure didn't have any luck my first time out. Paying my dues I guess. No bites (or maybe a ton of bites I missed) and I lost my brand new jig. Not to be discouraged, I'm out again tomorrow. I will overcome the bass.
You can catch fish without using a trailer. My cousin was keeping up with me during a really hot pre spawn jig bite one day. We caught 13 four and five pounders, and countless 2lb plus fish. He caught just as many w/out a trailer, as I did w/one! Of course this could have had alot to do w/ the fact that the fish were activly feeding.
could you guys possibly go into more depth on the different retrieves. do you pop it, and just slowly drag it across the bottom. yoyo it or what
Dragging, hopping, yo-yo, stroking, and swimming all have a time and a place. Really, it's up to the fish at any given moment to determine how you want to retrieve that jig.
can you do all of those retrieves with a craw trailer or should certain retrieves be use for different trailers?
I ALWAYS use a trailer, and that trailer is ALWAYS a Rage Tail. Craws and Lobsters for more water movement, Baby Craws, Grubs, and Menaces for less.
On 4/11/2013 at 10:29 PM, Shane J said:I ALWAYS use a trailer, and that trailer is ALWAYS a Rage Tail. Craws and Lobsters for more water movement, Baby Craws, Grubs, and Menaces for less.
I fish the Baby Craw T-rigged, naked. The Craw and Lobster Rage Rigged, Mojo or Jika.
However, I NEVER fish a jig without a trailer.
QuoteHowever, I NEVER fish a jig without a trailer.
No hair jigs for those smallies, Kent? Also, take a look at my latest Storm jig, the Bed Bug. It's designed to be fished without a trailer, for bedding bass.
so what do you do when your jig needs to mimic a shad?? just limiting yourself to a crawdad imitation is limiting what all you can do with a jig. i have caught a lot of really big bass on a hair jig with a snaky tail trailer to mimic a shad when the bass are feeding more predominently on shad.On 4/11/2013 at 10:29 PM, Shane J said:I ALWAYS use a trailer, and that trailer is ALWAYS a Rage Tail. Craws and Lobsters for more water movement, Baby Craws, Grubs, and Menaces for less.
bo
On 4/13/2013 at 5:31 AM, merc1997 said:so what do you do when your jig needs to mimic a shad?? just limiting yourself to a crawdad imitation is limiting what all you can do with a jig. i have caught a lot of really big bass on a hair jig with a snaky tail trailer to mimic a shad when the bass are feeding more predominently on shad.
bo
If one reads Shane's complete comment, I think he may have provided the answer to your question already... And I'm not sure that anything in his comment was limiting him to craw imitations...
Here are a couple of illustrations demonstrating one that he noted (TwinTail Menace) and another that I've seen photos of his catches with, the RAGE Shellcracker as a SwimJig trailer.
You'll notice they are mounted in the upright position and not horizontal as a Craw imitator would be... A good Jig Fisherman AND THE BASS relate to them quickly as a Brim/Shad profile and this set up provides a faster fall rate as well as maneuvering through grass and trash easier... Hope this Helps
IMO, there are trailers for any and all jigs that can improve their performance. It's up to the fisherman to figure this out
Exactly. I can't even count the number of fish I've caught on a jig while they were feeding on bait fish like perch, bluegill, and baby bass. Lot's of good choices of baits to match up with a jig when you want a mid-water presentation. A jig and Craw is just the tip of the iceburg.
On 4/11/2013 at 11:11 PM, J Francho said:No hair jigs for those smallies, Kent? Also, take a look at my latest Storm jig, the Bed Bug. It's designed to be fished without a trailer, for bedding bass.
My hair jig collection is large, but I don't really fish them much and as a result, haven't caught many smallmouth with them.
I love the Bed Bug, one of my all-time favorite jigs! However, I never intentionally fish bedding bass and will be using a trailer
on them, too.
sorry, i did go back and look, and you did mention a grub. so many fisherman never realize the fish catching potential of a simple jig. i rate them as the best fishing tool in the tackle box. i know there are many bassers that think the jig bite is none existent, but they are still throwing the standard rubber or silicone skirt with some type of crawdad imitating trailer. but, a aimple change to hair and a long slender trailer would have them right back in the ball game with a jig.
bo
so what type of line do you guys use? and what colors? right now im using green braid, but it can be a little hard to see sometimes
I'm using Tuf-Line SuperCast #30/ Seaguar AbrazX #17 leader and Seaguar Kanzen #30/ Tatsu #20 leader
On 4/17/2013 at 10:11 PM, jeff25 said:so what type of line do you guys use? and what colors? right now im using green braid, but it can be a little hard to see sometimes
15lb flouro for 95% of my jigging. I also am using some Tuff Line braid when the occasion arises that I need it.
50lb Power Pro here. Moss Green. No leader. But Im just learning Jig fishing.
50# Spider Wire
What a great thread!! Where was a site like this when I was youngster and joined up with Ray Scott? Oh yea, no computers!
On 4/17/2013 at 10:11 PM, jeff25 said:so what type of line do you guys use? and what colors? right now im using green braid, but it can be a little hard to see sometimes
Here are some factors to consider that may cause change in line choices:
Water clarity and or daylight conditions, jig weight, type of habitat or structure your fishing, depth your fishing, type of equipment like rod and reel used, average size of fish you are targeting or expecting to catch, the style or jig fishing technique you've chosen, whether on waters with HEAVY fishing pressure or otherwise... and there are others.
You can see when it comes to jig fishing, as with ANY other style or Lure presentations chosen, it's possible and often necessary to match the line size and type with the jig chosen to the conditions being fished, to increase your success.
An Example to give some clarity... Smaller diameter lines that are harder to detect and Fluoro's may be the best choice for lighter smaller weight jigs in clear calm water and skys where the fish are pressured and in more open water conditions Then as conditions change, you may be able to fish with more durable, heavier lb test and more visible lines. This is just a basic explanation and hope it helps
New convert to jig fishing. Been a die hard texas rigg fisherman forever, but after 2 4 pounders in a honey hole that usually produces 1-2 pounders max- Gonna fish a jigg a LOT.
How is the best way to trim the weed guard?
I cut it at an angle with the longest end on bottom but feel that with long end on top would be better a weedless configuration.
How far past point do you trim it? I have been leaving it 1/8-1/16" just past the hook (covering the hook). Or do you cut it short of the tip of hook?
I know there is a video or article on this but can't find it, Thanks
I dont trim weedgaurds. Now if you have a weedgaurd you need to make less stiff I will remove some of the strands
Jig has become a word to define a heavy cover jig with a brush style weed gaurd and that's is only 1 style with several head shape variations.
Fishing a "jig" in heavy brush, off color water, you need heavy enough tackle ( rod and line) to control a large bass and to set the heavy wire hook these jigs have. Little reason to have a FC leader under those circumstances, unless it makes you more confident.
The only time I use a heavy cover style jig is in heavy cover and isn't very often where I fish, unless it's night and bass are in tight cover. Heavy line for me is 14 lb FC, 10 lb FC is standard and I am fishing for giant bass in clear rocky deep structure lakes, with 1/2 pz jig, no fiber weed guard, 5/0 medium wire hook, 5 power rod.
Tom
just some info in case anyone didnt mention this but to help with the confidence a bit (not sure if they still do this but i guess they do?) each military survival kit comes with a jig and has been for very many years
that said i use jigs all the time i either reel them in extremely slow and let it drag the bottom or i bump it up and down a bit then drag it
that is also excellent for catching snook too (which is what i primarily fish for) but ive been more on bass fishing lately
really i have found thats its hard to not work a jig the right way
Jig fishing is simply an amazing tactic for all year fishing. For winter or summer and all between jigs will catch fish! I prefer booyah and strike king jigs personally. I always rig them with a rage craw by rage tail. The trailor produces water movement, realisticism, as well as a coffee scent that drives bass crazy. As far as ow to work i do 3 things, hops, drags, and swim and hop combos which give it a very active crawfish immatator for those excited bass as well as reaction stikes. Hope i could help. now get out there and catch a lunker on a summer jig !
What jig head would be ideal for rocky bottom with heavy grass/weeds? I found a new spot (pond sized) near my dads house that is an overflow or a flood management system for an adjacent (payment required to enter) lake. It is full of soccer ball size rocks and heavy weeds or moss. I did not get a chance to fish it (no IL license yet), but my sons did. I don't have many jigs so I don't want to start tossing them and losing a bunch.
Weeds tell me brush style, like http://www.siebertoutdoors.com/index.php/brush-jig'>these Siebert ones, but the rocks tell me football head. I have both styles. I am fishing from shore since I both have no boat, but there is no launch either, so I will be casting and retrieving as opposed to flipping/pitching.
The brush jig is the better all around head, and will work great in mixed rocks and weeds.
jigs can be used anytime, winter I use it with out trailer and spring,summer I use it with trailer. pitch it in heavy cover. use heavy line, hooks and strong tackle with good drag to take bass out of heavy cover
On 4/29/2013 at 10:13 PM, J Francho said:The brush jig is the better all around head, and will work great in mixed rocks and weeds.
X2, the brush jig pointed nose and stand up head will come through the grass easier than a football design and if the rock is sharp and/or jagged, there will be less hang-ups.
The best way to keep jig out of the rocks is never let it sit still and fall down into the crevices. No head design can help you if the it's wedged into the rocks. Without a boat to help you get an angle on the wedged jig you are out of luck or a jig. Lighter weight jig helps verses a heavier jig; say a 3/8 vs 1/2 the 1/8 oz can help a lot in preventing snags, but you still need to be able to keep in contact with jig under the conditions you fish in. Fishing a jig from shore up hill in rocks takes a lot of practice and jigs....not easy!
Tom
On 5/28/2013 at 1:35 PM, Big-O said:X2, the brush jig pointed nose and stand up head will come through the grass easier than a football design and if the rock is sharp and/or jagged, there will be less hang-ups.
Same thing I have found. Fishing Tablerock Lake a few years ago is when I first discovered this.
Hey, your article is really awesome!!
Heres a question.
I normally cast my jig out and try to figure out how the fish want it. I'll usually start by casting it and lifting my rod slowly to drag it across the bottom. I just read if you do this and you go over a rock, when you get to the edge your bait will fall AWAY from the rock and not straight down the rock face.
How do you guys slow retrieve your jigs to avoid this?
QuoteHow do you guys slow retrieve your jigs to avoid this?
Give your line enough slack to keep it from swinging back at you. Fluoro helps, since it sinks.
WOW, hurt my head but EX. Tell the dumb guy about some of the trailers and jigs you might use!?
Wow thanks to everyone of the great info! I hope you all do good on water and elsewhere!!!
Ok, I was kidding about the trailers and jigs question.What I would like to know is there any of you that have a go-to place where you buy your jigs? I have looked at the sponsors and they looked like fair deals, just wanted to know if there is any others out there that you might suggest.
On 6/17/2013 at 6:11 AM, basstrackin said:Ok, I was kidding about the trailers and jigs question.What I would like to know is there any of you that have a go-to place where you buy your jigs? I have looked at the sponsors and they looked like fair deals, just wanted to know if there is any others out there that you might suggest.
I have started only using North Star Jigs anymore. They are priced on the mid to higher level of most jigs, but I wait for a sale and buy a bunch. They do sales appox 2-3 times a year. I switched them last year as anytime I had a question, I was able to call the owner and he would give me his input. Chris and Nick are great guys. Another thing I like, is there pro staff guys are also good people. They are always quick to jump on questions and help too.
Plus, the colors and quality of his jigs are amazing. All are hand tied and I swear Chis has OCD worse than me lol I've never had a bad jig or a flaw. Their QC is top notch.
On 6/17/2013 at 6:11 AM, basstrackin said:Ok, I was kidding about the trailers and jigs question.What I would like to know is there any of you that have a go-to place where you buy your jigs? I have looked at the sponsors and they looked like fair deals, just wanted to know if there is any others out there that you might suggest.
NorthStar or Seibert are AMAZING jigs. They are all I use.
I do a lot of bank fishing and i am looking to start using jigs. what would anyone recommend for bank fishing small residential lakes with 3-5 foot vis stained water in terms of jig type, color, and trailer type, color.
On 6/20/2013 at 10:41 AM, florida_bass_assassin said:I do a lot of bank fishing and i am looking to start using jigs. what would anyone recommend for bank fishing small residential lakes with 3-5 foot vis stained water in terms of jig type, color, and trailer type, color.
All I do is bank fishing so I think I can help.
I would get some greens, browns and some blue/blacks. I only use North Star jigs. I prefer the black series flipping jigs and flip n swim, swim jigs. The colors I would grab are Brown Craw, Froger, black n blue and Insanity in the black series. I use rage craws in falcon lake for the brown craw, watermelon red for the frogger, black n blue flake for the black n blue and candy craw for the insanity.
For the flip n swims I like Mistake (black blue red), salsa, new gill and a custom color Chris made I call Crappie. For trailers I use all Berkely Havoc Sub Woofers in Plum for the Mistake, watermelon red for the salsa, Alabama craw for the new gill and smoke black flake for my crappie jig.
If you want some pictures of the jig and trailers let me know. I'm on my phone so it will have to be later for the Picts.
I only use 1/2 oz weight in all my jigs.
Thanks rockchalk06 thats exactly what i was looking for
On 6/20/2013 at 10:10 PM, florida_bass_assassin said:Thanks rockchalk06 thats exactly what i was looking for
No problem!
this may have already came up on here if it did i must have over looked it but i was wondering what kind of not you guys tie on your jigs i have been using a palamor not and i like it but sometimes it can get aggravating to me trying to get the loop over the jig,
I use a Palomar as well.
Jeff
under what conditions would one fish a chunk trailer vs a rage type trailer
for ME, your milage may vary.....
chunk(zoom super chunk) colder water
Rage in warmer water
60- 70 degress is a toss up, use both but only keep using the one you catch fish on.
On 7/31/2013 at 9:09 PM, Brian Needham said:for ME, your milage may vary.....
chunk(zoom super chunk) colder water
Rage in warmer water
60- 70 degress is a toss up, use both but only keep using the one you catch fish on.
I'm in agreement with Brian on this. To me, warmer means matabolism is up, big trailer time. Cooler the opposite. Although larger/smaller varies with your area. Where I live in Wisconsin, I never get too crazy on size, the 16-22" that are what I'm usually targeting run small up here and a huge trailer would put more bass off and more pike on.
Of course take all this with a grain or two of salt, and your experience may vary.
On 7/29/2013 at 6:20 AM, dreamertino said:under what conditions would one fish a chunk trailer vs a rage type trailer
On a hair jig in the winter for me.
Would you guys suggest using mono or fluoro for swim jigs. I feel like I should switch to fluoro because I cant feel as well with the line stretch. Any tips?
I use flouro.
Braid with a flouro leader for me for managability.
On 8/1/2013 at 2:28 AM, cdaggett said:Would you guys suggest using mono or fluoro for swim jigs. I feel like I should switch to fluoro because I cant feel as well with the line stretch. Any tips?
If I had to choose either of just those two, I'd go fluoro for the less stretch and slack line detection. I prefer straight braid for stained water and braid/fluoro leader for clear.
I'm in the market for some new jigs and would like to know if I should go with the Hack Attack or Denny Brauer Premier Pro Jig.
On 8/3/2013 at 7:03 AM, ohio-rage-tail said:I'm in the market for some new jigs and would like to know if I should go with Siebert outdoors AND Northstar Jigs.
Yes!
Jeff
I tried out swim jigging yesterday with a revenge bluegill colored jig with berkley twin tail grub. Lake I fish on gets a fair amount of pressure and is choked with milfoil and watershield. Spinnerbaits are okay but foul up easily and thats what most on the lake use.
The jig allowed me to gcast quietly and put the lure anywhere. It was so versatile. I could even walk it on the watershield and even caught one that way and had one miss it. the watershield on edges allowed me to tick and rip jig through it that caused a couple reaction bites. I could also swim the jig up to fallen logs and let it drop like a normal jig...whi h also produced a fish.
I was only one on lake catching bass to the point of having other people swoop in front of me to beat me to the fissh...but it didnt matter , i caught them when they left!
When should one use a standard jig versus a shaky head jig with soft plastic versus a texas rig soft plastic with pegged bullet weight? Is it personal preference?
You need to let the fish tell you this. Go out and fish them and see what they want on that particular day.
Jeff
surely though the bullet weight would be better for punching than a football head jig?
Well of course it would. If you are punching, I would suggest a bobber stopper, tungsten weight and a straight shank hook with your plastic on it. But you weren't asking about punching.
Jeff
My Bobberstopper keeps sliding up, should I be using a lighter lined one on a bigger diameter?
On 8/11/2013 at 11:45 AM, Mr_Scrogg said:My Bobberstopper keeps sliding up, should I be using a lighter lined one on a bigger diameter?
When punching, I use 50-60lb braid with a 6th sense stopper. Only comes in one size, but it works. They are small enough, that you could try 2 to see if that had enough holding power!
Jeff
On 8/11/2013 at 11:45 AM, Mr_Scrogg said:My Bobberstopper keeps sliding up, should I be using a lighter lined one on a bigger diameter?
Try a wooden toothpick.
I mainly use a 3/8 oz. jig. When are the correct times to use a smaller jig/trailer? Smaller profile for colder water?
On 8/12/2013 at 10:48 PM, J Francho said:Try a wooden toothpick.
Toothpick on a bobber stopper? Please explain?
Jeff
toothpick is Old school, shove/wedge a toothpick in the hole of the weight and snap it off ........while it works I would be scared of it.
I use the rubber t-pegs, I cant imagine a bobber stopper paired with a t-peg slipping, but that's just me.
Duh....he meant toothpick instead of. Must have not had my thinking cap on when I typed this earlier. We used to use the toothpick method and never experienced any problems. But there are better alternatives out there. If the stopper is sliding, try his method with the skirt.
Jeff
Anyone "scared" to use a toothpick should realize that we use them to peg little trout beads to the leader above the hook. That leader is 4-8# fluoro. The fish can weigh up to 20 lbs. If nicking the line were an issue, then it would surely appear in this application. It isn't an issue at all. It worked for years before all the fancy bobber stops came out, and it still works, and it holds better and is faster to rig. I've gone back to them after trying everything else. Win.
well played sir francho.
Brushhoggin, Thanks for the video. I been sorting out a lot of Siebert Outdoors jigs I purchased and I just out a rage trailer on one of them. I showed my wife your video them showed her the jig with the trailer. She was very interested and she understands about jigs now.
I'm new to jigs, I've thrown a few in the past with success but never really got into them until now. Being I'm into the color thing with cranks and the topwater lures I figure why should jig colors be any different when matching the water conditions. My crawfish in the ponds are black backs and a reddish color. In the rivers here there a tan color. But in muddy and stained water the game changes. Time will tell if I'm as successful with the brighter colors in the darker water conditions or not. Chartreuse rules the assortment of colors in the darker waters.
Joe thanks for all the info. That info should be a sticky here.
This is the first year for me to fish since I was a kid. I've tried reading articles (books and online) and videos on all the different types of lures used to catch bass. 99% of the bass I have caught this year have been on plastic worms/lizards. Two bass (in the spring) were on jigs and one on spinnerbait. I quickly learned the power of plastic worms. I've also come to the conclusion (that I severe the right to change) that jigs don't work as nearly as well as I read about or see about, at least not the places I fish here in Indiana.
My brother said jigs were meant for larger fish and not average/smaller sized bass. I don't know. All I know is that I have thrown plastic worms a lot and they work. During summer I would start with a plastic worm and then, after catching a bass or not, move to a jig for a bit, then move back to a plastic worm. I've had horrible success rate with jigs.
I went fishing for an hour this afternoon at a club and talked with two guys and asked them if they ever catch anything on jigs. One answered - It takes lots of patience. I went to Gander Mountain this evening and talked with one of the men who works at the fishing department. He's an older man that sounds like he has fished many years. I asked - Do you fish with jigs? He said the only thing he uses are plastic tubes and he guarantees he will catch more fish bass than I could on anything I throw!
In my opinion - Plastics: A+; Spinnerbaits: (not sure yet but maybe a C); Jigs: F
I'll admit I did most of my summer fishing at one lake that is not known for very large bass.
Anyway, I never thought I would do this because I find throwing jigs fun even though I don't catch anything on them - I took them out of my tackle bag. Right now my bag is made up of lots of plastic worms/lizards/tubs/creatures, ten or so spinnerbaits, and that's it. I may add a rattle bait and crainkbait. The jigs are staying home my next few trips out to fish for bass.
Maybe jigs are more for lakes/ponds that are known to have giant bass, like those in southern states or California.
On 10/22/2013 at 3:32 PM, hoosierbass07 said:This is the first year for me to fish since I was a kid. I've tried reading articles (books and online) and videos on all the different types of lures used to catch bass. 99% of the bass I have caught this year have been on plastic worms/lizards. Two bass (in the spring) were on jigs and one on spinnerbait. I quickly learned the power of plastic worms. I've also come to the conclusion (that I severe the right to change) that jigs don't work as nearly as well as I read about or see about, at least not the places I fish here in Indiana.
My brother said jigs were meant for larger fish and not average/smaller sized bass. I don't know. All I know is that I have thrown plastic worms a lot and they work. During summer I would start with a plastic worm and then, after catching a bass or not, move to a jig for a bit, then move back to a plastic worm. I've had horrible success rate with jigs.
I went fishing for an hour this afternoon at a club and talked with two guys and asked them if they ever catch anything on jigs. One answered - It takes lots of patience. I went to Gander Mountain this evening and talked with one of the men who works at the fishing department. He's an older man that sounds like he has fished many years. I asked - Do you fish with jigs? He said the only thing he uses are plastic tubes and he guarantees he will catch more fish bass than I could on anything I throw!
In my opinion - Plastics: A+; Spinnerbaits: (not sure yet but maybe a C); Jigs: F
I'll admit I did most of my summer fishing at one lake that is not known for very large bass.
Anyway, I never thought I would do this because I find throwing jigs fun even though I don't catch anything on them - I took them out of my tackle bag. Right now my bag is made up of lots of plastic worms/lizards/tubs/creatures, ten or so spinnerbaits, and that's it. I may add a rattle bait and crainkbait. The jigs are staying home my next few trips out to fish for bass.
Maybe jigs are more for lakes/ponds that are known to have giant bass, like those in southern states or California.
It takes Patients like no other. I have 4 set ups with a jig tied on right now. I fish them almost all the time. That said I have a crankbait, jerkbait and tube tide on different set up as well. Sometimes the jig bite is not on. Other times it is. After spending a lot of time here, listening to pro's and listening to trusted jig fisherman, I have come to the conclusion that you have to have 100% confidence in the bait or technique to be successful with it. I have a lake back home that looks like it was made for jig fishing. I have caught one bass, on a jig, in the last 5 years on it and it was my PB. Now that same lake I can throw a chartreuse or craw colored crank and clean house. Blows my mind, but it is what it is.
I highlighted a part of your post in red. Please don't be offended, but when anyone, even a Pro, makes a blanket statement like that, they either are full of BS or so full of them selves they are about to pop! I'm no expert but the right person could make the guy eat his words. I've come to find out the guys working a fishing counter that truly are good fisherman that have years of good experience will never put you down or put something down you are asking about. They will help you be successful with what you asked about or make a suggestion to help you out.
You can always take your jigs and add a swim bait trailer and use them just like a spinner bait without a blade. I have caught more bass fishing a jig like a spinnerbait than I ever have pitching it into cover.
I'm not throwing my jigs away. I'm taking a break. I have been giving great thought on why I have not caught many bass using jigs. One thing I have not done with jigs is throw them into heavy cover. The places were I banked fish at a state park during most of the summer does not have much cover. Maybe some tree limbs here and there but no thick grass or weeds. I did recently join the local Izaak Walton League and their strip pit lakes have lots of grass. I've not used jigs in the heavy grass yet so maybe I should try jigs there.
I've had one of my best years ever on keeper bass on jigs. Lately, the spinnerbait bite has been picking up, but I always have a jig ready to pitch into the nasty stuff. Hoosierbass, if you haven't already, read back through this thread from the beginning. It's helped me.
Are jigs primarily a heavy cover lure?
Also, isn't a spinnerbait a jig but with a V wire and blades? If you simply reel in a spinnerbait and bass will go after it (hopefully) why can't jigs be reeled in like spinnerbaits?
I was reading the latest Bass Master magazine and there is an article on one of the pro's, they spend the day with him at an unnamed lake. He caught five or six bass and most were caught on jigs in very deep/heavy cover like tree trunks under water. So is that where jigs work - very heavy cover?
dinks to hawgs, shallow to deep, thick cover to open water........the jig catches them all.
couple days ago the bass were plucking at my d bomb trailer. actually got on a steep bank and watchex a pound n a half nibble on it. Is this when you change colors or what?
Or move...it's a dink.
Hey guys when you feel a tap or tap tap I imagine that's the bass crushing the bait but I could be wrong. I'm just learning this bit and went out today and got that tap tap and didn't quite know when to set. I left it for a little and then set the hook. To my surprise I had one hooked to then lose it on its way in.
Weird experience
Take your set up in the front or back yard. Pull out 20-30 yards of line and have someone hold the jig with the line tight. Then have then tap on the line above the jig 2-4 times. That's what a bite feels like.
But remember this phrase......when in doubt, set the hook!
As soon as I feel that "tap tap" I set the hook. I do not hesitate.
I have yet to get bit on a jig since the spawn. I am convinced that the area I fish is no longer holding fish. Its about a twenty yard stretch that is riff raff as far as you can cast. On top of this I didn't see any bait fish or bass yesterday. And I tried as many different retrieves as I could think of. I watched my line on the fall and all the way back nothing. They may have moved to deeper water idk, but I will continue to try until I get bit I am determined to get it down
Does anyone use jigs from ***? Intersting concept. I think my jig rolled over and probably skin hooked it. He also has his technique for setting which involves physics and using the line as a whip. Interesting stuff
On 11/3/2013 at 9:44 PM, grizzly1654 said:As soon as I feel that "tap tap" I set the hook. I do not hesitate.
Thanks for that. I don't know if the bass is nipping at it when I feel that or if it's actually in his mouth.
On 11/4/2013 at 7:56 AM, Hattrick7 said:Thanks for that. I don't know if the bass is nipping at it when I feel that or if it's actually in his mouth.
Depending on your trailer, sometimes that little tap tap can be bluegill. Either way setting it is better than not.
On 10/22/2013 at 3:32 PM, hoosierbass07 said:1. This is the first year for me to fish since I was a kid.
2. I've also come to the conclusion (that I severe the right to change) that jigs don't work as nearly as well as I read about or see about, at least not the places I fish here in Indiana.
I've had horrible success rate with jigs.
1. If this is the case then you're far better off using plastic worms and the like IMHO. You want to have fun and catch fish, you want numbers to keep it fun. Just when you're getting back into fishing probably isn't the best time to jump in to learning the jig. Once you're feeling a little "seasoned" might be a better time. When you can look at the water and have a solid feel for the most promising spot to fish, and you've had your fill of 1-2 lbers and are happy to give up 1 or 2 dozen bites for 1 or 2 bites but from bigger fish then it's probably time. Just my 2 cents.
2. I felt the same way for a long time. I tried them time and again with little success. This past season I was determined to learn to fish a jig effectively. First I bought a proper baitcasting rig instead of trying to just use a medium spinning combo and "make" it work (Huge difference). Then I read up as much as possible and went out with nothing but my jig and pig rig. Long story short I caught more bigger fish than ever this season and the jig is my #1 confidance bait now. It was absolutely worth the struggle to learn and worth the investment for the right equipment.
On 10/22/2013 at 3:32 PM, hoosierbass07 said:. I've also come to the conclusion (that I severe the right to change) that jigs don't work as nearly as well as I read about or see about, at least not the places I fish here in Indiana.
.
PM "bassin is addicting"........ Jon is from Indiana as well.
He never caught a jig fish either, until he came to the roadtrip at Pickwick last year.
Judging from the pics he sent me this summer, Jigs work just fine in the hoosier state.
Maybe he can give insight to your local waters .
If the bass is a largemouth they tend to engulf the jig fully into their mouth and crunch it between the tongue and top of the mouth. Look into a basses mouth and in the back on the top of the mouth are a set of crunchers used to kill prey. Largemouth use their lips to prevent prey from escaping, not usually to bite with. The tap you feel is the jig hitting the back of the bass mouth, the second tap is often the jig being spit out.On 11/3/2013 at 12:35 PM, Hattrick7 said:Hey guys when you feel a tap or tap tap I imagine that's the bass crushing the bait but I could be wrong. I'm just learning this bit and went out today and got that tap tap and didn't quite know when to set. I left it for a little and then set the hook. To my surprise I had one hooked to then lose it on its way in.
Weird experience
You can't set too fast on largemouth bass. Smallmouth and spots often grab a crawdad by it's claws and shake it, before taking it info the mouth, so a hesitation works OK. More than likely the bass swam directly at you and simply spit the jig without being hook well.
Better hook set will help.
Tom
On 11/9/2013 at 5:12 AM, WRB said:If the bass is a largemouth they tend to engulf the jig fully into their mouth and crunch it between the tongue and top of the mouth. Look into a basses mouth and in the back on the top of the mouth are a set of crunchers used to kill prey. Largemouth use their lips to prevent prey from escaping, not usually to bite with. The tap you feel is the jig hitting the back of the bass mouth, the second tap is often the jig being spit out.
You can't set too fast on largemouth bass. Smallmouth and spots often grab a crawdad by it's claws and shake it, before taking it info the mouth, so a hesitation works OK. More than likely the bass swam directly at you and simply spit the jig without being hook well.
Better hook set will help.
Tom
He could have I couldn't see it but I set, felt that familiar feeling of a hooked bass, reeled him in then he vanished.
Determined to land my first one though.
1st Tap: The bass Inhaling your lure
2nd Tap: The bass Exhaling your lure
3rd Tap: Your buddy tapping your shoulder to ask: "What are you waiting for?"
Roger
"What are you waiting for, bass don't have hands".On 12/14/2013 at 6:40 AM, RoLo said:1st Tap: The bass Inhaling your lure
2nd Tap: The bass Exhaling your lure
3rd Tap: Your buddy tapping your shoulder to ask: "What are you waiting for?"
Roger
On 12/14/2013 at 7:20 AM, WRB said:"What are you waiting for, bass don't have hands".
I did catch one bass that had hands, but all his teeth were missing!
Roger
On 12/14/2013 at 6:40 AM, RoLo said:1st Tap: The bass Inhaling your lure
2nd Tap: The bass Exhaling your lure
3rd Tap: Your buddy tapping your shoulder to ask: "What are you waiting for?"
Roger
LMAO! That's good!
Wow I just read the first page where Joe posted that long tutorial! That was great. I know its several years after it was written but I am glad I checked this topic. I just bought some jigs with different color skirts and had no idea how to use them properly. Great info on this topic!
Great article! This answered all my jig questions too! Thank you. Tight lines.
After all this I have to start jig fishing...
Thank you all for this topic.
Just put in an order of jigs from Siebert Outdoors. Finally decided to commit to learning to fish the jig this year. In the very limited amount of jig fishing I have done previously, I only used the small Netbait Paca Craw trailers. Any recommendations for another basic/staple trailer in the jig world? Otherwise I'll just buy a bunch more of the Paca Craws since it's all I know.
Thanks.
On 2/24/2014 at 2:59 PM, onefinalcast said:Just put in an order of jigs from Siebert Outdoors. Finally decided to commit to learning to fish the jig this year. In the very limited amount of jig fishing I have done previously, I only used the small Netbait Paca Craw trailers. Any recommendations for another basic/staple trailer in the jig world? Otherwise I'll just buy a bunch more of the Paca Craws since it's all I know.
Thanks.
Rage craws and Lobsters!
Jeff
On 2/24/2014 at 9:27 PM, 00 mod said:Rage craws and Lobsters!
Jeff
Ditto
how far should your craw trailor hang out of the skirt? it the green one to far out? I dont know if it helps but im fishing central ohio(not erie) so the average bass would be like 2lbs
I have always had better success with chunk trailers. Smaller trailers. Compact. I believe its all about experimenting though. See what the bass want.
Thanks for reply about trailers. In light of the previous post regarding trailers, I too have wondered how far out people leave their trailers. Which also leads me to ask whether you guys like to trim the skirts up to the end of the hook? Or do you guys leave the skirts long(er)?
On 2/28/2014 at 2:01 AM, jeff25 said:how far should your craw trailor hang out of the skirt? it the green one to far out?
I prefer the Green one. I have better luck on the baby paca craw than I do the chunk. 2 lbers will smoke that thing. So will pigs.
On 2/28/2014 at 2:01 AM, jeff25 said:how far should your craw trailor hang out of the skirt?
I prefer to ensure there is sufficient space between the ends of the skirt and the action portion of the trailer, in this case the claws of the craw.
This can be accomplished by either trimming the skirt or modifying the body length of the trailer.
If the majority of the skirt is hanging all over the claws, it can impede the action of the trailer, especially on the fall.
This does not come into play as much if the trailer is designed to glide rather than flap.
A-Jay
I like how the black one is set up........many people like how the green one is set up.
neither is wrong...I have caught fish one both. Sometimes you just have to fish both and decide.
I like a tight presentation on 3/8 oz jigs and a bigger profile for heavier jigs.
do you guys use rattles or no rattles?
Jig fishing is good year round and is one of the most versatile baits. You can work a jig in many different was such as swimming or stroking it, but dragging a jig on the bottom is probably the most effective way to work it. Trailers aren't required but when the tails of the jig kick, it gives it alot more action which leads to more bites.. Hope this helps!
The Northstar website went back up today for any of you that use/are interested in them. Just an fyi.
On 3/1/2014 at 5:20 AM, jeff25 said:do you guys use rattles or no rattles?
always have a rattle .
I NEVER throw a jig without a rattle
I almost never use a rattle anymore. I used to, especially in off color water, but since I switched to hand tied jigs, I've forgotten to add a rattle. I haven't really noticed a drop off in bites.
I have been using the bitsy bugs and they dont have rattles. I've switched to a similar jig with rattles in almost the same color right after catching a few on bitsy bugs and the bites stopped. Switched back to the bug and got bites again. So now I tend to stay away from the ones with rattles though I still have a few in my arsenal in case I run out of other stuff to throw at the bass.
I also find that most of my bites on jigs seem to come on the initial drop after the cast.
On 3/22/2014 at 10:28 AM, J Francho said:I almost never use a rattle anymore. I used to, especially in off color water, but since I switched to hand tied jigs, I've forgotten to add a rattle. I haven't really noticed a drop off in bites.
On 3/22/2014 at 10:26 AM, Brian Needham said:always have a rattle .
I NEVER throw a jig without a rattle
That pretty much sums up where I stand on rattles
At a recent pro tourney everyone was using plugs with rattles except KVD...guess who won the tournament?
Roger
I almost always go with out a rattle, unless I think I need one. And even then I only use one to make me feel better. It probably dosen't matter.
I've added them too, thinking that must be the problem...lol. Nope, somedays, I just don't got it.
RoLo..that's funny cause I don't like (mostly) crankbaits with rattles!
funny people those fishermen!
I'm mastering or at attempting to get better at jig fishing this year. Only way to do so is spend time on the water and imo that is a good thing.
Planning on trying to do more jig fishing this year so decided to look back on pass post for good advice and holy crap Joe. S where do I send the check.
Those of us who are new to bass fishing reach out to you guys for help but dude that is going above and beyond
Thanks
Thanks Joe, I haven't had much luck with jigs yet and now I know why. Your tips on technique are very helpful and I'm determined to make it work. We need a serious warm up in western ny before I get much of a chance though.
how many bites a day do you guys usually get flipping and pitching? and how spaced out are those bites (time)? usually after an hour or so fishing a jig without a bite i give up and switch to something else.
Sometimes just five. Five good ones is all it takes.
On 4/22/2014 at 11:45 PM, jeff25 said:how many bites a day do you guys usually get flipping and pitching? and how spaced out are those bites (time)? usually after an hour or so fishing a jig without a bite i give up and switch to something else.
I do not fish competitively, so the reality is, I'm always fishing for just one bite.
The Right one.
A-Jay
Like A-Jay, I only need 1 good bite, but always hope for "3" good bites.
That way, I can blow 2 of them but still put grandma in the boat
Roger
I prefer rattles, trailers and scents with all my jigs. I was using the pork chunk trailer. But this year I'll try out the rage tail stuff.
I started jig fishing kast summer with a 3/8 oz jig. I caught a few and got hooked. All I do is pond fish from the banks. Lately Iv been throwing a 5/16 oz jig and catching dinks, to 4# bass and everything in between. I love the feel of the smaller jig, so I'm wondering; would a 5/16 oz jig catch quality fish year round? I figure if they're looking for a bigger meal, I could just throw a bigger trailer on the end. Anyone?
you got the right idea bigblock.......... but remember a bigger trailer will make it fall slower.
some lakes like a fast fall,
some lakes like a slow fall
and even that varies from day to day.
with the bigger trailer you could go back to your 3/8oz and be the same fall rate as your 5/16 with "normal" trailer.
Thanks Brian. That makes sense. I just wanted to make sure the big 'uns would still bother with the smaller profile jig even in the summer months.
On 4/25/2014 at 6:56 PM, BigBlock496 said:smaller profile jig .
In my mind just becuase it weighs more or less does not make it smaller profile.
a 1/4oz jig has the same profile as a 3/4oz jig unless you trim the skirt or change it.
head weight is for rate of fall, skirt is for profile/bulk.
that my opinion.
On 4/25/2014 at 8:07 PM, Brian Needham said:In my mind just becuase it weighs more or less does not make it smaller profile.
a 1/4oz jig has the same profile as a 3/4oz jig unless you trim the skirt or change it.
head weight is for rate of fall, skirt is for profile/bulk.
that my opinion.
I'll drink to that.
Furthermore, you can't take the manufacturer's word for the actual weight of a jig (or the actual length of a worm).
The other day I weighed an All-Terrain Grassmaster Jig marked "3/8 oz" that weighed 270 grains on my powder scale.
Hence, a 5/8 oz jig masquerading as a 3/8 oz jig...LOL
Roger
Wow great write up, thanks
I want to know why are there so many different type of heads for jigs and what difference do they make to that lure ?
On 5/6/2014 at 8:20 AM, Adam_2433 said:I want to know why are there so many different type of heads for jigs and what difference do they make to that lure ?
brush heads come through wood good
footballs are good in rock
arky skip well
swim heads are cleaner in grass.
those are general principles, but there is a bunch of personal preference that goes with it too.
Myself, I only fish footballs because:
1. of where I fish
2. I like to keep it simple
3. don't fish much grass
I just read this whole thread and what a great read. I'm not much of a jig fisherman but after reading this, I may become one. Thanks to all for all the great tips and advice
On 5/11/2014 at 9:01 PM, jrsmith_80 said:I just read this whole thread and what a great read. I'm not much of a jig fisherman but after reading this, I may become one. Thanks to all for all the great tips and advice
Me too. I'm 99% bank fisherman and have only caught fish with plastics, cranks, and spinners. Never jigs. I think my next tackle order will include a few just to expand my repertoire. This has been a ver informative read.
What are the advantages of footballs? From day one, Iv just always used the Booyah "boo"/"baby boo" jigs. Not sure what the head is referred to. Iv had great success with them, but often wonder if a different type might give me an even slightly better edge. Would football jigs, or any other style for that matter, benefit a bank beater like myself?
On 5/30/2014 at 11:52 AM, BigBlock496 said:What are the advantages of footballs?.... Would football jigs, or any other style for that matter, benefit a bank beater like myself?
I as a bank fisherman would like to know as well...
Football heads sit upright on hard bottom and are easier to work through rocks. When they are dragged into a rock, the bait rolls forward, making a craw bait look defensive. They work well in wood in a pinch, though an arkey style is better.
It's taken quite a few of Gene's videos and this forum to convince me. The last two days I've fished a Jig 85% of the time.
Still no luck.
I'm sure it's not the equipment but the operator.
I like the idea of fishing with nothing else. I've had to do that with my bait casting rod. If I leave my spinning rod at home I won't be tempted to use it.
Well done all around forum.
Deepest thanks.
I went out today before work and I took 3 rods with me, my spinnerbait rod(epic fail), my pitching and flipping rod and my wacky rod. I threw the spinnerbait out first to see if I could get any reaction strikes and nothing was biting. I picked up my flippin rig and started to flip a jig into fallen trees. I have never done this. I was always scared to do it. Today I said screw it, its a 4 dollar jig, I'll just buy another. I pitched and flipped docks, off shore structure and fallen trees for 3 hours straight and caught 2 nice bass, my first ever jig fish. I fished my wacky rig for literally 3 minutes and never touched it again. That's my confidence rig too. All in all I am proud of myself and I want to thank the people in the thread for sharing their knowledge and giving me the confidence to go out there and throw a jig in some nasty stuff.
Just keep at it Persico. The bass love the nasty stuff. So does my jig!
Today I was fishing and found a little jig that has what looks like a little hook keeper on it. Does anyone know what this is? I can't seem to upload the pic, so if you can go to my FB page @
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10202762849806448&set=a.1083494641691.2013193.1056116334&type=1&theater
Yesterday caught my first jig bass
I use mainly only a football jig where i fish and You can use a jig anytime i usually use it in grass, skipping docks, and working shore line. You can pretty much fish it where ever you want. You work it almost like a Texas rig lifting your rod tip waiting a split second or so and then again and again i usually lift it 3 times thats when i get a slack line and reel up the slack line and do it again. For me a trailer is a must because it makes it seem more alive to the fish and it seems like a bigger meal. Depending on what trailer you use such as a rage tail craw it will give off more vibration and movement. I usually use a half ounce. This is one thing that if the bite is tough i go to and love to fish it in grass because you get that reaction strike when you pull it through grass. Also if you are fishing a jig make sure you have a trailer hook because you will get better hook up ratio when ever i fish a trailer hook the fish is always hooked on the trailer hook and the fish usually short strikes it.
Jigs are my absolute go-to bait. I just have so much confidence in them and (feel like) I'm pretty well versed in them. The only type of jig I don't throw (not much at least) is a football. But that's mainly because I don't have many places that I would need a football jig over anything else. Punch jigs and heavy cover flipping setup is a 7'3 Heavy Falcon Rod (the Jason Christie series) with an Okuma Citrix 7.3:1 spooled with 65# Power pro. Swim jigs and lighter cover flipping setup is a 7' Medium Heavy Abu Garcia with an Abu Orra SX in 7.1:1 spooled with 15# Seaguar Abrasx Fluorocarbon. South Florida bass always seem to hit a jig.
Swim jigs have a swim bait trailer 90% of the time! the other 10% is in the post spawn when I'll put a double tail grub on it to slow roll it. Flipping jigs are always trailed with either a Yum Craw Papi or Craw Chunk. Most of the time I try to match the trailer and jig colors, unless the water is muddy then I'll throw a black/blue jig with an electric blue trailer.
I've honestly never used a trailer hook on a jig. I may have to try that.
trailer hook on a jig.....hmmmm
wouldn't interfere with the plastic trailer?
That
On 6/19/2014 at 1:41 AM, Brian Needham said:trailer hook on a jig.....hmmmmwouldn't interfere with the plastic trailer?
thats what I would think...
Pike fisherman have solved this issue years ago. There are plenty of ways to rig a trailer hook into a plastic bait added to a jig. Look up "quick strike rigs" for ideas. Personally, I think you should only try it out if your actually having issues. Don't fix a problem that isn't there! Usually a color change, retrieve speed, or weight/profile change will convert short bites into inhales.
I have 0 luck fishing jigs. I have tried all kinds of colors and different kinds. Nothing will bite it. It's got to be me but I don't know what I am doing wrong. Keep trying different techniques every time I go out.
On 6/22/2014 at 3:34 PM, sk8ter107 said:I have 0 luck fishing jigs. I have tried all kinds of colors and different kinds. Nothing will bite it. It's got to be me but I don't know what I am doing wrong. Keep trying different techniques every time I go out.
Maybe try downsizing. I started on jigs last summer, and now its not only my favorite bait, but also my top producing bait. I started out with a 3/8 oz. jig last year, and caught an alright amount of fish. This year Iv fished with a smaller profile jig, 5/16 oz and have greatly out fished myself from last year. Good part is, the lighter jig is a smaller profile but will still catch great fish!
On 6/23/2014 at 9:05 AM, BigBlock496 said:Maybe try downsizing. I started on jigs last summer, and now its not only my favorite bait, but also my top producing bait. I started out with a 3/8 oz. jig last year, and caught an alright amount of fish. This year Iv fished with a smaller profile jig, 5/16 oz and have greatly out fished myself from last year. Good part is, the lighter jig is a smaller profile but will still catch great fish!
is it just the downsize OR has the downsize made you slow down??? not saying you are wrong just giving you an added question to ask yourself.
I know Slooooowwwwwwwwing down has helped just about every facet of my fishing this year.
On 6/23/2014 at 9:33 AM, Brian Needham said:is it just the downsize OR has the downsize made you slow down??? not saying you are wrong just giving you an added question to ask yourself.
I know Slooooowwwwwwwwing down has helped just about every facet of my fishing this year.
Absolutely. It seems theres a lot Im doing different nowadays. I know my "style" of fishing has changed a good bit this year compared to past years.
I will go pick up some smaller jigs today. What kind of trailer do you use on the smaller jigs?
Those are good points. Something I think I take for granted. Probably something I forget sometimes too. Slowing down is tough when your not getting bit. A lighter jig forces you to slow down. Good stuff.
On 6/23/2014 at 6:58 PM, sk8ter107 said:I will go pick up some smaller jigs today. What kind of trailer do you use on the smaller jigs?
I personally use the Rage Tail chunk, but there are plenty of other chunk trailers out there if you like a certain brand. The Rage chunk fits perfectly to a smaller jig.
I always use the rage craw......then bite it down to whatever size you want.
creates one less bait to store.
I used to do that, but the chunks are more durable, so I went back to carrying both. There are cases where the chunks aren't available in the same color as the craw, so for that I'm chewing coffee scented plastic.
I used to use the craw, and bite two of the chunks off the body. I agree with Francho though, the chunk seems more durable to me. I carry both most of the time for different applications.
I've been pretty happy with the rage tail baby craw on smaller jigs or when I want a smaller profile. I have also been happy with the netbait paca chunks.
I like the paca chunks. They're pretty freakin durable, but in my eyes.. Nothing touches my Rage Tail.
On 9/13/2007 at 1:46 AM, Joe. S said:Here's a little piece I put together, The jig is my favorite lure to fish because of it's versatlity.
Representation,
First let's start with what a jig represents underwater, I believe the most
Popular use of it is to imitate a Crayfish but they also can imitate baitfish as well.
Jigs come in many different shapes, sizes and colors etc. The most popular crayfish imitators seem to be the good old skirted jig usually tipped with some sort of plastic or pork trailer.
Speaking of sizes, shapes, colors, I'm only going to really get into the skirted jig with a plastic or pork trailer as this is the bait I primarily use, and use it as a crayfish imitator only.
Sizes,
There is a very large size range available,
I mainly use 3 sizes of Jigs in my arsenal or depending on manufacturer the closest weight to these sizes 3/8 oz , ½ oz and ¾ oz.
I will mainly use a 3/8oz when fishing really shallow. The presentation has more time to be subtle because of the lighter weight than just crashing on the bottom in the shallow water.
1/2 oz. Jig
This is my go to, if there was only one jig weight aloud in my box, this would be it. I guess you could say the happy medium. I fish this 99 percent of the time from a regular bank down to 15 ft and anything in between.
The only time I go to a 3/4 oz. Is if I need to get through some thick weeds, the wind is really blowing or I am fishing dep but want to fish it faster than normal.
Colors,
I don't get crazy on colors when it comes to jigs. I have 3 colors that I have a ton of confidence in and those are Browns, Greens, and Black. It seems the jig has excepted rules on what colors for what conditions were faced with, green or brown, natural colors for clearer water and black or darker colors for murkier water or night time. I do follow that to a point but not because of the rule but because I have confidence in throwing those baits in those conditions. Ive caught fish in clear water with a black jig and fish in murky water and at night with a green jig so what's that tell us. Color is confidence in my book.
Trailers/Chunks
These come in many shapes and sizes, Most of them are made to represent the pincher end of the crayfish which are either threaded or simply hooked on to the jig.
I go rather simple in this area as far as selection.
I mainly use 3 colors in 2 sizes, Green, Brown and Black in 2 or 3 sizes I always match the color of the trailer with the jig, (just a confidence thing)
I will normally start off fishing with a 2 trailer in tournaments, I feel the smaller size may get me more bites in order to get my limit then I may upgrade trailer size to go after larger fish, but there is no rule here either, as I have caught fish over 6lbs. on 2 trailers and fish less than 12 on 3 trailers.
As far as the many styles and brands of trailers, my selection is simple I use my own, I feel they give me the best chances of catching fish and here is why: When a bass hits a jig they will normally engulf the whole lure, Jig and trailer. It only takes a split second for that fish to reject the bait if it notices anything artificial about it. When I make my trailers I add a lot of crayfish oil to the plastic prior to cooking then once poured they go through a 2 stage salting process. Once you get a fish to bite them they are hard pressed to let it go because there is so much taste for them. Because there is so much craw oil in the plastic it makes the baits very soft which helps release the oils and salt when the bait is bitten. (Shameless Plug I know, but the truth as well)
The Bite!
I have been fishing a jig predominantly for the last few years and have probably experienced every type of bite possible, but then again maybe not, sometimes you don't feel anything at all, then sometimes they almost rip the rod out of your hand, and then you have everything in between, you must always be ready to set the hook.
It is a must to be a line watcher when fishing a jig because you may not always be in direct contact with the lure, and the little twitch in the line that you didn't see could have been a 10 fish or the fish of a lifetime.
One thing I really like to do is know the depth of the water I'm casting to, I feel this is very important, a ½ oz jig on 15lb mono sinks at about 1ft per second. So I know if I'm casting it into 12ft of water and the line stops sinking when I count to 6, something sucked it in, reel in any slack and set the hook.
This is where I believe salts and scents are very handy, normally when I'm fishing a jig I'm fishing some type of structure, rocks, wood, grass, etc. with the equipment on the market you can pretty much feel everything the lure bumps into, when first getting into jig fishing I might have questioned myself was that a fish or a rock, don't know for sure. But now using my own baits and good equipment as well as a lot of time fishing the jig, I have the confidence in them to know that when I feel that little bump, I can pause and wait a second or two to see if there is any activity or lack there of on the end of the line before ramming the hook into a nice bass, or a stump.
Equipment:
For fishing these type and size of jigs, I use a 7' Heavy action bait casting rod, I feel this is very important and will not use a Jig on anything lighter, for a few reasons, 1.) These jigs normally have stout hooks that require a decent amount of force to get good penetration. I don't want to take the chance of losing a big fish because my rod didn't have enough power to drive the hook home, 2.) You have the weed guard to deal with as well when setting the hook. 3.) A lot of times the bass will really clamp down on a jig to crush it making it harder to move the jig on the set to get a good hook set, I noticed this especially with small mouth bass. As for the brand of rod that is personal preference but I think you should get the best you can afford in this area or the added sensitivity.
For a reel, I prefer High speed reels 6.1:1 or 6.3:1 and a decent amount of line retrieval per handle turn. I like this because I can pick up any slack really fast as well as keep up with the fish if it is charging towards me. This is another brand preference issue, I prefer smaller profile reels so I can palm the reel and rest the line going into the reel on my pointer finger for extra sensitivity.
Line
I mainly use 15 lb test mono line for most jig fishing, I don't really go any lighter than that, I will go heavier for certain situations depending on a few factors, structure or cover that I'm fishing, or even the size of the fish I have a chance at catching will dictate the size. In really clear water I will use fluorocarbon line for reduced visibility. And if I need to go above 20 lb mono for any reason I will switch to a braid for line diameter purposes. You can use any of the three all the time, these are just my preferences and how I utilize each for certain situations.
This is not intended to be a know all of Jig fishing document, these are the ways and equipment I personally like to use and have confidence in for the situations I face,(Notice the title) there are so many variables in fishing that could call for a different tactic from the lure type and size, to the tackle and line, it would be impossible to list them all.
Some techniques I use...
When I make a cast I let the bait sink, you must always watch your line, a lot of times they will hit it on the initial fall and your line will either twitch, stop before it should, or start going sideways, when this happens reel up the slack and set the hook. If the bait makes it to the bottom I will wait about 3 or 4 seconds and then drag it about 6-8 inches (Right now he's just cruising on the bottom), then pause, after 3-4 seconds drag again, and repeat this. Once I feel any obstruction, I pause then shake without dragging, I feel this simulates the crayfish trying to burrow under whatever obstacle it just bumped into. Then I give it 2 quick very short snaps, this would simulate the crayfish fleeing from a predator, then let it hit bottom and repeat the whole process. A lot of times right after the pause when you go to drag again it will feel heavy, set the hook. Hook sets are free, If you haven't fished a jig a lot , it takes time before you can get a really good handle on determining fish bites from obstructions. Practice makes perfect and when in doubt set the hook.
That's for mostly open water hump style fishing and beating a bank. In cover I like to throw it in the nastiest stuff possible and shake it around then repeat casting to it (pretty much pick it to pieces.)
Don't ever think there is such a thing as to shallow, I use to cast to about a foot off shore till a guy on the back of my boat beat me bad, the fish were in that spot right on the bank, now I cast to were I'm pretty much hitting the shoreline.
Do you retrieve a swim jig like crawfish along the bottom too?
I use 3 trailers when imitating craws. Rage chunk, Yum's craw papi, and a KVD sweet chunk. Which one I use depends on what I have the most of at the time haha.
For swim jigs its either a double tail grub in the spring or a small swimbait in the summer/fall. Worked out pretty well so far. Especially the swimbait trailer. KVD 4" swimmin caffeine shad works like a charm in summer.
Fished a KVD swim jig i got at my local BPS, caught 10-15 bass but the weed gaurd only has like 2 or 3 strands left...what's a better swim jig I can buy at BPS?
On 6/29/2014 at 1:29 AM, Schuyler co said:Fished a KVD swim jig i got at my local BPS, caught 10-15 bass but the weed gaurd only has like 2 or 3 strands left...what's a better swim jig I can buy at BPS?
save some cash and get a better product..... order from Siebert Outdoors.
click the link on the right hand side of the page.
Thanks Brian! Just placed an order of Siebert jigs; storm OOMOD, tournament swim jig and bullet jig. Gotta be better than the KVDs!
I fish a small lake (about 300 acres) that is mostly devoid of cover. There is sparse rock, and some fallen timber and brush piles, but mostly on or very near the bank. There are a lot of docks, but most of these sit in shallow water as well. The bottom of the lake is pretty much all soft mud. There is very little noticeable off shore structure either. The main structure on the lake is a few steep banks, some points, a dam with some rip rap that drops off fairly quickly, and a ton of flats and gradual sloping banks. The lake is 60 feet at its deepest point. The main forage is shad, bluegill, and crawfish. The lake also holds crappie, and catfish. Although it may not seem like the ideal bass fishing lake, it is a very productive lake, and I have caught fish up to 8 lbs. The average fish is probably 1-2 lbs, but there are a ton of 3-4 pounders as well.
I have been trying to learn to fish a jig this summer, but I have yet to catch a single fish on one. I have been using mainly natural colored 1/2 ounce football jigs on 15 lb floro, and dragging it slowly on the bottom. Every once in a while ill give it a couple hops, or stroke it, but mostly I'm just dragging it. As I mentioned before there is hardly any cover, so it feels like I am just dragging the jig through muck. Occasionally Ill bring it over something hard, and then I really try to slow down, or even shake the jig in place. I assume dragging it on the bottom, even where there is no cover, is kicking up some mud. I would think this should attract some fish, but I just can't buy a bite on the jig. I'll refish the same exact areas with a texas rig worm, or even a texas rig craw imitation, and I will often catch 3 or 4 fish right away. I live on the lake so I fish it practically every day. I know I am fishing in productive areas and at the proper depths.
Based on all the information I gave above, can anyone give me any tips? Is there another style jig I should be using besides the football head? I know football heads are meant for dragging over rocks, but I figured since Im fishing deep and on the bottom they should work in my lake too. Should a jig always be fished in cover, and therefore is not a suitable presentation on a lake like mine? Any opinions or advice is much appreciated.
I like to use a crawfish trailer and make it realistic, pop it onc twice or the occasional three times and let it sit, use a craw with floating claws for added realism and watch how a real craw behave so mimick it, good luck man jig fishing is a blast!On 9/12/2007 at 11:09 PM, whj812 said:I am new to Jig fishing. I purchased some jigs in hopes to learn how to properly fish them.
I have a couple of questions,
When is the proper time to use a jig?
How do I work the lure?
Are trailers required? and What advantages do they add?
Any help or advice would be appreciated.
Elkaholic,
I fish a very similar lake. The bite on a jig seems to have dried up for me right now. Earlier I was fishing natural colored 3/8 oz football jigs dragging and hopping them along the bottom and was absolutely slaying them. With this hotter weather, I can't seem to get much of anything to bite my jigs.
With that said, I am getting bites on other baits. It may be that your fish just don't want a jig drug on the bottom right now. You might try some more aggressive hopping or try swimming your jigs and see if that works. Don't give up on them, it may just be the wrong time of year for your lake.
Swordsman, it's never the wrong time of year for a jig. If the 3/8 oz isn't working for you anymore, move down to a 5/16 oz jig. Big bass will still eat it too, trust me.
On 9/13/2007 at 1:46 AM, Joe. S said:Here's a little piece I put together, The jig is my favorite lure to fish because of it's versatlity.
Representation,
First let's start with what a jig represents underwater, I believe the most
Popular use of it is to imitate a Crayfish but they also can imitate baitfish as well.
Jigs come in many different shapes, sizes and colors etc. The most popular crayfish imitators seem to be the good old skirted jig usually tipped with some sort of plastic or pork trailer.
Speaking of sizes, shapes, colors, I'm only going to really get into the skirted jig with a plastic or pork trailer as this is the bait I primarily use, and use it as a crayfish imitator only.
Sizes,
There is a very large size range available,
I mainly use 3 sizes of Jigs in my arsenal or depending on manufacturer the closest weight to these sizes 3/8 oz , ½ oz and ¾ oz.
I will mainly use a 3/8oz when fishing really shallow. The presentation has more time to be subtle because of the lighter weight than just crashing on the bottom in the shallow water.
1/2 oz. Jig
This is my go to, if there was only one jig weight aloud in my box, this would be it. I guess you could say the happy medium. I fish this 99 percent of the time from a regular bank down to 15 ft and anything in between.
The only time I go to a 3/4 oz. Is if I need to get through some thick weeds, the wind is really blowing or I am fishing dep but want to fish it faster than normal.
Colors,
I don't get crazy on colors when it comes to jigs. I have 3 colors that I have a ton of confidence in and those are Browns, Greens, and Black. It seems the jig has excepted rules on what colors for what conditions were faced with, green or brown, natural colors for clearer water and black or darker colors for murkier water or night time. I do follow that to a point but not because of the rule but because I have confidence in throwing those baits in those conditions. Ive caught fish in clear water with a black jig and fish in murky water and at night with a green jig so what's that tell us. Color is confidence in my book.
Trailers/Chunks
These come in many shapes and sizes, Most of them are made to represent the pincher end of the crayfish which are either threaded or simply hooked on to the jig.
I go rather simple in this area as far as selection.
I mainly use 3 colors in 2 sizes, Green, Brown and Black in 2 or 3 sizes I always match the color of the trailer with the jig, (just a confidence thing)
I will normally start off fishing with a 2 trailer in tournaments, I feel the smaller size may get me more bites in order to get my limit then I may upgrade trailer size to go after larger fish, but there is no rule here either, as I have caught fish over 6lbs. on 2 trailers and fish less than 12 on 3 trailers.
As far as the many styles and brands of trailers, my selection is simple I use my own, I feel they give me the best chances of catching fish and here is why: When a bass hits a jig they will normally engulf the whole lure, Jig and trailer. It only takes a split second for that fish to reject the bait if it notices anything artificial about it. When I make my trailers I add a lot of crayfish oil to the plastic prior to cooking then once poured they go through a 2 stage salting process. Once you get a fish to bite them they are hard pressed to let it go because there is so much taste for them. Because there is so much craw oil in the plastic it makes the baits very soft which helps release the oils and salt when the bait is bitten. (Shameless Plug I know, but the truth as well)
The Bite!
I have been fishing a jig predominantly for the last few years and have probably experienced every type of bite possible, but then again maybe not, sometimes you don't feel anything at all, then sometimes they almost rip the rod out of your hand, and then you have everything in between, you must always be ready to set the hook.
It is a must to be a line watcher when fishing a jig because you may not always be in direct contact with the lure, and the little twitch in the line that you didn't see could have been a 10 fish or the fish of a lifetime.
One thing I really like to do is know the depth of the water I'm casting to, I feel this is very important, a ½ oz jig on 15lb mono sinks at about 1ft per second. So I know if I'm casting it into 12ft of water and the line stops sinking when I count to 6, something sucked it in, reel in any slack and set the hook.
This is where I believe salts and scents are very handy, normally when I'm fishing a jig I'm fishing some type of structure, rocks, wood, grass, etc. with the equipment on the market you can pretty much feel everything the lure bumps into, when first getting into jig fishing I might have questioned myself was that a fish or a rock, don't know for sure. But now using my own baits and good equipment as well as a lot of time fishing the jig, I have the confidence in them to know that when I feel that little bump, I can pause and wait a second or two to see if there is any activity or lack there of on the end of the line before ramming the hook into a nice bass, or a stump.
Equipment:
For fishing these type and size of jigs, I use a 7' Heavy action bait casting rod, I feel this is very important and will not use a Jig on anything lighter, for a few reasons, 1.) These jigs normally have stout hooks that require a decent amount of force to get good penetration. I don't want to take the chance of losing a big fish because my rod didn't have enough power to drive the hook home, 2.) You have the weed guard to deal with as well when setting the hook. 3.) A lot of times the bass will really clamp down on a jig to crush it making it harder to move the jig on the set to get a good hook set, I noticed this especially with small mouth bass. As for the brand of rod that is personal preference but I think you should get the best you can afford in this area or the added sensitivity.
For a reel, I prefer High speed reels 6.1:1 or 6.3:1 and a decent amount of line retrieval per handle turn. I like this because I can pick up any slack really fast as well as keep up with the fish if it is charging towards me. This is another brand preference issue, I prefer smaller profile reels so I can palm the reel and rest the line going into the reel on my pointer finger for extra sensitivity.
When I make a cast I let the bait sink, you must always watch your line, a lot of times they will hit it on the initial fall and your line will either twitch, stop before it should, or start going sideways, when this happens reel up the slack and set the hook. If the bait makes it to the bottom I will wait about 3 or 4 seconds and then drag it about 6-8 inches (Right now he's just cruising on the bottom), then pause, after 3-4 seconds drag again, and repeat this. Once I feel any obstruction, I pause then shake without dragging, I feel this simulates the crayfish trying to burrow under whatever obstacle it just bumped into. Then I give it 2 quick very short snaps, this would simulate the crayfish fleeing from a predator, then let it hit bottom and repeat the whole process. A lot of times right after the pause when you go to drag again it will feel heavy, set the hook. Hook sets are free, If you haven't fished a jig a lot , it takes time before you can get a really good handle on determining fish bites from obstructions. Practice makes perfect and when in doubt set the hook.
Can you elaborate more on this process , specifically where is your rod tip position at each step?
I just got my first two fish on a jig and I love it! Bought a swim jig but I caught them just casting it into weed beds and jigging it up and down while bearly reeling. My question is in a pond that is pretty much taken over by weeds whats a good way to fish a jig. I think I may have just got lucky haha. There is no way the jig (or anything else) could make it to the bottom around these weed beds. So should I just let it hit the tops of the beds like they are the bottom or?
You have to punch. You need a heavy action rod and a 3/4 to 1 oz punching weight. Rig it like a Texas rig using a flipping hook and a creature bait. I like to use a strike king rodent but any compact bait will work. I usually use 50 lb braid bus some guys go 65 lb plus.
Ya I do that but thats not a jig lol.
Punching is a brand new thing for me. The ponds we fish are choked with penneywort. There are some big fish in there but the only way you gona get to em is heavy tackle or fish the edges and get lucky.
If I'm punching I use up to 1 oz
Were you up at wyandotte using a whopper plopper a couple weeks ago?
I've seen guys use 2 oz tungsten
No
Ok lol some guy was showing me his collection of punch baits. Thought it might have been you.
On 6/20/2013 at 1:28 PM, rockchalk06 said:All I do is bank fishing so I think I can help.
I would get some greens, browns and some blue/blacks. I only use North Star jigs. I prefer the black series flipping jigs and flip n swim, swim jigs. The colors I would grab are Brown Craw, Froger, black n blue and Insanity in the black series. I use rage craws in falcon lake for the brown craw, watermelon red for the frogger, black n blue flake for the black n blue and candy craw for the insanity.
For the flip n swims I like Mistake (black blue red), salsa, new gill and a custom color Chris made I call Crappie. For trailers I use all Berkely Havoc Sub Woofers in Plum for the Mistake, watermelon red for the salsa, Alabama craw for the new gill and smoke black flake for my crappie jig.
If you want some pictures of the jig and trailers let me know. I'm on my phone so it will have to be later for the Picts.
I only use 1/2 oz weight in all my jigs.
Pics pics pics
I have no luck fishing jigs at all. I tried 3 different ponds and caught nothing. Tried different sizes, colors, and even different trailers. I know there are bass in the ponds cause I pulled a 3lb out the other day. What could be my problem?
Jig fishing is highly underrated. I never started using them until last year. I always use a trailer and I go with 10lb test fluorocarbon with a rod with a decent amount of backbone for quality hook sets. I just saw on Lindner's Angling Edge that you should try and use heavier jigs than usual during the dog days of summer so that the bait will penetrate weeds better, leading to more bites in lakes with submerged vegetation. I always use a trailer, most recently the Pit Boss. Don't be afraid to load up that trailer with scent either!
I started fishing swim jigs just recently. I like hitting a small 50 acre lake. A single dock, some grass along the shore, and a lot of fallen timber.
Had tons of luck on a small shad powerbait, so I stuck with it. When morning bite slows, switch to swim jog with trailers. I try different colors with different trailers, had some luck last time. Can't remember exactly what color jig, and the trailer was some brown creature type bait. Just reeling it in not to slow, enough to keep it off the bottom a foot or two, throwing to the bank and bringing it out. Even caught some in open water when the bass were busting shad again later in the day, that time I was using a shad colored swim jig and a roboworm ez shad trailer. They were hitting it pretty good.
Most of the bass in this lake busting the shad are 1-3lbs. There are some lunkers, I just need to figure out how to catch them, I'm guessing they are staying deeper,
Anyone have some tips on using the swim jigs in 20' of water? Action/retrieve methods? Thanks all.
One trick I use is to rig a 1oz jig in place of the egg sinker on a Carolina rig so you get 2 for the price of one. Make sure you find a jig with the line tie parallel to the jig head not the hook
I have a Medium spinning rod use for Shaky heads. Works great for this application. Would I have the same success tossing a 1/4 jig or a finesse jig with this setup??
1/4 or lighter, sure.
Glad someone bumped this legendary article.
You can almost fish it all year round. From a football head to a medlock double guard flipping jig. Early spring you can get key bites with the jigs almost every rage tail bait can be used as a trailer the original rage tail craw is my favorite or the lobster for big jigs 3/4 ounce +
I've just started fishing jigs and for some reason my tackle box suddenly got full and my wallet got empty. I'm not quite sure why!lol
On 9/6/2014 at 11:18 PM, Kevin Beachy said:I've just started fishing jigs and for some reason my tackle box suddenly got full and my wallet got empty. I'm not quite sure why!lol
x2...lost 2 jigs the other day, think I bought 9 more to replace those 2...and some other stuff. This bass fishing gets expensive.
I love jig fishing!
Wacky Jig:
On 9/30/2014 at 8:31 PM, PersicoTrotaVA said:I love jig fishing!
Wacky Jig:
any jig fishing is fun!
On 9/30/2014 at 8:31 PM, PersicoTrotaVA said:I love jig fishing!
Wacky Jig:
Do you work it like a "normal" football jig?
On 10/2/2014 at 3:36 AM, cabrela said:Do you work it like a "normal" football jig?
It's a casting jig and I toss into heavy cover and let it fall through. The worm head and tail shake back and forth and looks like a crawfish thats fleeing down or a fish or 2 running down to the bottom. I have tried bouncing it like a wacky rig as well, but I haven't had any takers on it that way.
On 10/2/2014 at 11:27 AM, PersicoTrotaVA said:It's a casting jig and I toss into heavy cover and let it fall through. The worm head and tail shake back and forth and looks like a crawfish thats fleeing down or a fish or 2 running down to the bottom. I have tried bouncing it like a wacky rig as well, but I haven't had any takers on it that way.
So they only take it on the fall.....?
On 10/2/2014 at 7:51 PM, cabrela said:So they only take it on the fall.....?
That's the only way I have caught them. I haven't really tried any other presentations with it yet because its somewhat new to me. Next time I go out, I am going to try a football head and try bouncing it like a big wacky rig jighead.
On 10/2/2014 at 8:55 PM, PersicoTrotaVA said:That's the only way I have caught them. I haven't really tried any other presentations with it yet because its somewhat new to me. Next time I go out, I am going to try a football head and try bouncing it like a big wacky rig jighead.
Ok.
Nice... then let us know how it went.
Thanks.
On 9/12/2007 at 11:09 PM, whj812 said:I am new to Jig fishing. I purchased some jigs in hopes to learn how to properly fish them.
I have a couple of questions,
When is the proper time to use a jig?
How do I work the lure?
Are trailers required? and What advantages do they add?
Any help or advice would be appreciated.
I have been fishing for many years, and never believed in Jigs, but that was my fault, because to fish a jig takes patience, and you must have confidence.
Most guys if they don't catch fish they put the jig down, and go back to senkos.
Yes Senkos are a good bait, but personally I am getting tired of them, there is actually nothing to it.
Buy some casting jigs, I like the Picasso wide meanining it has somewhat of a wider gap hook, and cast it out just like you would do a Texas rig bait.
fish it the same way, drag it and hop it akong the bottom
You won't catch as many fish as you would with plastics. but the ones you catch will be bigger.
You can fish a jig with no trailer but if you want a bigger profile add one one.
I also like Skinny Bears casting jigs the skirt is living rubber very good action.
Tackle warehouse has a big selection....Good Luck
Are football jigs the only type of jig that works when bottom dragging? I've just started using jigs and don't have any football jigs yet. I have a couple of the baby booyah swim jigs and a couple of the Arkie brand jigs from Walmart, and one of the Hart Tackle justice jigs from Walmart. I mostly fish ponds from the bank and just found a new one to fish and wanted to try dragging a jig on bottom to cover water and check out what the bottom of the pond is like.
On 10/14/2014 at 8:54 PM, ww3869 said:Are football jigs the only type of jig that works when bottom dragging? I've just started using jigs and don't have any football jigs yet. I have a couple of the baby booyah swim jigs and a couple of the Arkie brand jigs from Walmart, and one of the Hart Tackle justice jigs from Walmart. I mostly fish ponds from the bank and just found a new one to fish and wanted to try dragging a jig on bottom to cover water and check out what the bottom of the pond is like.
No, you can drag pretty much all of them. That is the beauty of jig fishing. I would recommend contacting Mike over at Siebertoutdoors.com and have him recommend some heads/skirts for your type of fishing. You will not be disappointed.
On 10/14/2014 at 10:13 PM, stk said:(....I would recommend contacting Mike over at Siebertoutdoors.com and have him recommend some heads/skirts for your type of fishing.) You will not be disappointed.
That´s a fact!!
A lot of the fish I catch are hooked on the side of the mouth or even the bottom corner. What should I do differently on my hooksets? I understand that ideally you want to hook them in the top of the mouth?
Hookset angle. Try setting up over your shoulder.
Thanks. It's hard breaking away from the excitement and reaction of swinging randomly when feeling a bite.
On 10/14/2014 at 8:54 PM, ww3869 said:Are football jigs the only type of jig that works when bottom dragging? I've just started using jigs and don't have any football jigs yet. I have a couple of the baby booyah swim jigs and a couple of the Arkie brand jigs from Walmart, and one of the Hart Tackle justice jigs from Walmart. I mostly fish ponds from the bank and just found a new one to fish and wanted to try dragging a jig on bottom to cover water and check out what the bottom of the pond is like.
Its not the only jig you can drag but it works the best due to it being the most stable.
I would like to add something for all the noobs and co-anglers.
As a co-angler myself, in almost all cases you have to adapt to the boater. ALOT of guys Ive fished with over the past few years will pass through docks with maybe 1 cast to 3 slips or 2 casts total to a tree. This is terrible and in most cases these guys arent winning the tournaments. Theres been times Ive made 10+ casts to the same slip and got bit on the 11th. You really have to pick apart the object your fishing for a few reasons.1 being you dont know where the fish are at that given structure. You know theyre there but not where! They could be suspended, hugging the bottom, at a piece of wood or rock under the dock facing east and youre casting just west of them. You have to pick apart everything. I'll give a good example of a personal experience just a few weeks ago.
We came up on a downed tree.We both had jigs tied on we started working in between the limbs out at the front center. I worked my way to the left and back he worked to the right and back. My 5th pitch 2# his 3rd 2#. Continuing on we started working into the most dense parts of the tree he landed a 5# I had got 2 more 3# each. The thing here is the biggest fish gets the best cover, so all the smaller fish are outside that area waiting for a opportunity to seize the best spot. Thats the reason why you may have caught a huge fish at your favorite spot in the world then 3 months later you go to that spot again and only get a 1#er. So always work your way from the outside in and get them out of there quick so not to spook the guys buried in there!
I hope this may help anyone!
That's over 15 lbs. of fish from ONE TREE, folks. Good advice, and great story.
On 10/22/2014 at 12:14 AM, dam0007 said:I would like to add something for all the noobs and co-anglers.
As a co-angler myself, in almost all cases you have to adapt to the boater. ALOT of guys Ive fished with over the past few years will pass through docks with maybe 1 cast to 3 slips or 2 casts total to a tree. This is terrible and in most cases these guys arent winning the tournaments. Theres been times Ive made 10+ casts to the same slip and got bit on the 11th. You really have to pick apart the object your fishing for a few reasons.1 being you dont know where the fish are at that given structure. You know theyre there but not where! They could be suspended, hugging the bottom, at a piece of wood or rock under the dock facing east and youre casting just west of them. You have to pick apart everything. I'll give a good example of a personal experience just a few weeks ago.
We came up on a downed tree.We both had jigs tied on we started working in between the limbs out at the front center. I worked my way to the left and back he worked to the right and back. My 5th pitch 2# his 3rd 2#. Continuing on we started working into the most dense parts of the tree he landed a 5# I had got 2 more 3# each. The thing here is the biggest fish gets the best cover, so all the smaller fish are outside that area waiting for a opportunity to seize the best spot. Thats the reason why you may have caught a huge fish at your favorite spot in the world then 3 months later you go to that spot again and only get a 1#er. So always work your way from the outside in and get them out of there quick so not to spook the guys buried in there!
I hope this may help anyone!
Yes it does, thank you.
On 10/18/2014 at 12:39 PM, dwong said:A lot of the fish I catch are hooked on the side of the mouth or even the bottom corner. What should I do differently on my hooksets? I understand that ideally you want to hook them in the top of the mouth?
This isn't necessarily your fault unless you are waiting too long to wack em. A fish can turn and this usually gets them in the corner of the mouth. If you bury the hook and don't gut hook them, to me thats a good hookset no matter where in the mouth it gets them.
So, if you could only buy ONE type of jig/jighead that could do it all.....what would it be? I'm more looking for the best all around jig type instead of the one jig you would buy based on your particular favorite way to fish a jig...if that makes sense. And maybe include some specific examples brand/type.
Probably an arkey or brush head.
Arky Jig
Arky jigs are a proven design that is very versatile. The Arky jig works good in rock, light weeds, brush, and even skips. It is truly a great all around jig for many applications.
Specifically, Siebert Outdoors Dredge Arkyy Jig: http://www.siebertoutdoors.com/Dredge-Arky-Jig-110.htm
How about skirt material? Silicon vs living rubber? I've tried both and I really do like how the living rubber flairs in the water. Any downsides?
There are no downsides to using living rubber. The thing is living rubber is limited to only a few different colors. Silicone is made in any color imaginable. I am an avid jig fisherman and fish jigs year round and when I feel I can get away with it I prefer living rubber because I feel it looks more life like and almost breathing/pulsating on it's own. Is it big enough to make a difference to a bass? Who knows but I catch just as many on silicone. I suggest fishing colors you are confident in and if that happens to be living rubber then so be it.
Wow. Thanks for the info. I took some of your advice to the pond yesterday. Still have yet to catch one on a jig, but I'm not intimidated by them anymore .
Good colors to match bluegill or sunfish?
That's going to be variations of purple,blue,green,yellow,orange. There maybe some other colors in there that people like but for me its going to be just something black and blue with some strands of purple and maybe 4 strands or so of one of the other mentioned colors.
Thanks
On 11/12/2014 at 6:19 AM, Bassin30721 said:Good colors to match bluegill or sunfish?
Revenge Baits makes the best bluegill color IMHO. TW carries them.
On 11/12/2014 at 6:19 AM, Bassin30721 said:Good colors to match bluegill or sunfish?
NorthStar Swim Jig Bull Gill http://www.northstarbaits.com/catalog/item/7220007/7616374.htm
Siebert Elite Swim Jig Bluegill http://www.siebertoutdoors.com/Siebert-Widegap-Jig-023.htm
What type of head would you guys throw in open water with dead matter, and few rocks on the bottom? Arky? Football? Brush?
On 11/27/2014 at 9:13 AM, asianboywonder said:What type of head would you guys throw in open water with dead matter, and few rocks on the bottom? Arky? Football? Brush?
I would probably throw an arkie head.
If you are going for casting in open water I would always fish a football head. Good for both dragging and stroking off the bottom
I fish from the bank, so I can't really stroke a football jig. I'll just try them all and see which one works best
When I first started using jigs it was over whelming as well. They can be used almost any conditions. When fish are active use a swim jig or fish a football jig fast " hop" it. When the fish are not active use a slower technique/retrieve in this case.
As far as trailers go, I always use them, they add more bulk to the jig and make it appear more life like. They also add action to the jig. However in a case like a slow day or the fish are not liking a trailer I will take it off..... Let the fish tell you what they want.
This is jigs in a quick sum, this is a big topic..... My best advice would be to take each jig and spend a week with it and just dig that , learn each and how it handles
I choose rubber, mord life like
what would be yalls favorite kind of jig to throw no matter what your conditions throw at you
On 11/27/2014 at 9:23 AM, asianboywonder said:I fish from the bank, so I can't really stroke a football jig. I'll just try them all and see which one works best
Go with the arky. I was using SK Bitsi Bugs in 1/4 with Rage Chunk , and I was lighting them up from the bank. Those jigs have no stability because of its ball style head so I knew my Rage Chunk was flopping over on its side. Now I'm gonna start using arky jigs which should be a more stable platform so I'm predicting better results. Plus it will skip allot better also. Skip them rocks under a couple of low hanging branches, a low bridge or a drainage tunnel, and see what happens.
Technique wise I'll let it sink and sit a couple of seconds, then give it a couple of hops, or do a hop reel, hop reel. They always seem to bite on the hop for me, and sometimes they bite when I'm reeling it in for a cast, and didn't know they were on it until they are like a foot away from the bank or wall.
LOVE ME A JIG BABY!!!
On 12/3/2014 at 7:10 AM, boostr said:Go with the arky. I was using SK Bitsi Bugs in 1/4 with Rage Chunk , and I was lighting them up from the bank. Those jigs have no stability because of its ball style head so I knew my Rage Chunk was flopping over on its side. Now I'm gonna start using arky jigs which should be a more stable platform so I'm predicting better results. Plus it will skip allot better also. Skip them rocks under a couple of low hanging branches, a low bridge or a drainage tunnel, and see what happens.
Technique wise I'll let it sink and sit a couple of seconds, then give it a couple of hops, or do a hop reel, hop reel. They always seem to bite on the hop for me, and sometimes they bite when I'm reeling it in for a cast, and didn't know they were on it until they are like a foot away from the bank or wall.
LOVE ME A JIG BABY!!!
Wow these Siebert jigs are INCREDIBLE. The quality is so amazing, and they're so much cheaper than the ones you buy in store.
They are fancy and affordable. Got mine yesterday, and I'm happy. I think he uped his quality. When I recived some of his jigs a year ago they were really nice, but these are way nicer. GOOD JOB MIKE!
Thank you guys! I am always trying to improve upon my product.
Do any of you guys think that eyes on the jig make any difference? I know some swear by eyes on the lures being a significant factor in getting bites so was just curious about that. I was thinking of painting some eyes on some jigs this year and seeing if I notice any difference between those and the regular solid colored ones I always use.
On 1/13/2015 at 10:48 PM, guitarglynn1 said:Do any of you guys think that eyes on the jig make any difference? I know some swear by eyes on the lures being a significant factor in getting bites so was just curious about that. I was thinking of painting some eyes on some jigs this year and seeing if I notice any difference between those and the regular solid colored ones I always use.
It's the "Cool Factor". I like eyes, the kind that are glued on not just painted.
On the other hand, fish don't care.
On 1/13/2015 at 11:42 PM, roadwarrior said:It's the "Cool Factor". I like eyes, the kind that are glued on not just painted.
On the other hand, fish don't care.
Why is it that some lure manufactures go so all out on some lures with the eye details? is it the old to catch fisherman thing?
I have read that with many bait fish the body of the fish is so camo that it leaves just the eyes for the bass to target in on.
Well a lot of guys are "collectors" and we appreciate gorgeous lures!
The Megabass line of lures are very effective, but I own more than I
will ever fish. I just love the detail and on some, their angry eyes.
On 1/14/2015 at 3:01 AM, roadwarrior said:...we appreciate gorgeous lures!
The Megabass line of lures are very effective, but I own more than I
will ever fish. I just love the detail...
I know what you mean....
I stepped it down to a 1/4 oz bass patrol jig today with a twin tail grub(which I never use). I was killing them, I usually use heavier jigs 1/2-3/4 with craws to feel bottom but the bass were devouring it. I fished it on a 7ft3 med *** and 51e with 30lb braid and a 12lb fluoro leader. I am not sure if today was a fluke but I caught 6 within an hour on it. My largest fish was about 4.5 but most were 3+.
On 1/19/2015 at 6:21 AM, Diggy said:I stepped it down to a 1/4 oz bass patrol jig today with a twin tail grub(which I never use). I was killing them, I usually use heavier jigs 1/2-3/4 with craws to feel bottom but the bass were devouring it. I fished it on a 7ft3 med *** and 51e with 30lb braid and a 12lb fluoro leader. I am not sure if today was a fluke but I caught 6 within an hour on it. My largest fish was about 4.5 but most were 3+.
Nice, very nice.
Often downgrading is the way to go. Congrats.
On 1/19/2015 at 7:42 AM, cabrela said:Nice, very nice.
Often downgrading is the way to go. Congrats.
Thanks, it seems the fish were just as big as when I use larger jigs, just more plentiful. The fish in my avatar is a normal days catch in that lake. Ill try it again on my next go round.
On 1/19/2015 at 8:02 AM, Diggy said:Thanks, it seems the fish were just as big as when I use larger jigs, just more plentiful. The fish in my avatar is a normal days catch in that lake. Ill try it again on my next go round.
It´s a nice lake then...
Im looking to get into jig fishing.. but where to start.. i bought a few but had no luck yet.. lost a few football jigs already.. so im looking to see if there's a jig or jig head for swimming, dragging, and or standing..all in one or a combination of it.
Siebert Outdoors Dredge Series, Arkie Head: http://www.siebertoutdoors.com/Dredge-Arky-491.htm
If Your Starting Out Using A Jig , 1/4 or 3/8 Is A Good Choice , Don't Over Think About All The Different Colors. Green Pumpkin Is One Of The Best All Around Colors , Hands Down.
Mike P.
I'm gonna start using jigs myself. The mental hurdle for me is figuring out what type of jig to use for which situation. Weights I understand but understanding the applications for the different types is kinda overwhelming. Is there an easier way to figure this out or am I overthinking it? I know arky heads are preferred for skipping docks. When would one prefer a football jig? That's the kinda info I'm confused about.
On 3/6/2015 at 11:21 AM, Shockwave said:I'm gonna start using jigs myself. The mental hurdle for me is figuring out what type of jig to use for which situation. Weights I understand but understanding the applications for the different types is kinda overwhelming. Is there an easier way to figure this out or am I overthinking it? I know arky heads are preferred for skipping docks. When would one prefer a football jig? That's the kinda info I'm confused about.
Football jigs are best around rocks. Arkeys are good around everything. You can be completely covered if you have arky, football, and swimming heads.
What application Is a shaky head used for?
Its just used to fish soft plastics. Some have a screw lock to hold the bait and the hooks hidden, making them weedless. Some are rigged like a regular jighead.
Ok. This definitely makes it easier. Thanks!! One more.....I think. Which jig is preferred for dragging along a soft bottom? I think the one I'm thinking of sits on the bottom with the hook pointing up.
Just find one with a flat surface in the front of the head. Could be a football style head or any other head. Just make sure it has a flat surface.On 3/6/2015 at 11:52 AM, Shockwave said:Ok. This definitely makes it easier. Thanks!! One more.....I think. Which jig is preferred for dragging along a soft bottom? I think the one I'm thinking of sits on the bottom with the hook pointing up.
Thanks for the help!! Now to head on over to Siebert Outdoors!!
Shockwave, the fourth post on this thread pretty much answered all of my questions on jig fishing. Good luck.
Yep, I think that post along with what I've learned from Jiggin' will be a strong start. I just placed an order with Siebert Outdoors so all I gotta do now is wait for the friggen ice to melt!!
Does anyone on here use the Havoc Pit Boss or RI Sweet Beaver as trailers? If so, what sizes do you use?
I've never used a pit boss as a trailer, but I use RI sweet beavers all the time. I use the 4.20 and tear off a good chunk to where the hook comes out between the eyes.On 3/14/2015 at 10:55 PM, chadlass said:Does anyone on here use the Havoc Pit Boss or RI Sweet Beaver as trailers? If so, what sizes do you use?
I use pit boses as trailers a lot, especially when the jig bite is good, they are much more durable than the craws I use and cheaper too. I use the 4inch ones, if I'm throwing a smaller 1/4oz jig I'll tear a little off the top
Has anyone found success with the paca chunk craw trailer? I bought plenty of bags of those since I have great success with them on my chatterbaits
I use the Paca Chunk a lot. Good swimming action and on the fall.
On 3/17/2015 at 12:51 AM, A KGB Operative said:Has anyone found success with the paca chunk craw trailer? I bought plenty of bags of those since I have great success with them on my chatterbaits
Good trailer. What I use when Im running low on Rage chunks. Awesome price too. Its also what I caught my first fish on a jig with also.
Hello, I am trying to up my game in jig fishing this year. I have caught a few in the past on them but not well versed in jigs, so I have a few questions.
I fish mostly in ponds and use jigs to throw into fallen trees/brush.
1) Considering I am throwing into trees should I be using braid or is FC ok? I also use same rod for plastic this is why I'm thinking FC. Just not sure how abrasion FC is. I had lost a jig when casting with 15lb seagar invizx with line breaking while jig in the air. Makes me wonder if throwing in trees weakened the line. Any line suggestions appreciated.
2)What at and type should I be using for what I am using it for?
Thanks!!
FC had better abrasion resistance than braid, however, Invisx is fairly soft FC do I don't think it's abrasion resistance is high compared to some of the stiffer/harder FC's out there. Fox the line b reak at the knot or further up the line? I'm pretty sure that FC is best for fishing around cover unless you go to 50# + braid. Either way, you need to check your line frequently in order to catch savage before it causes you to fling a lure off into the wild blue yonder.
Great thread! There is some great knowledge in here!
Thank you to the major contributors on this thread John S., Big O, RW, JFrancho, etc.! I'll be reading these posts over and over trying to learn more about jig fishing to apply when I can get back onto the water.
I'm personally new at jigs as well and this has helped show me what I need to do to trigger more bites with them.
One piece of advice that I would share is that I always buy football heads with flat side on the football head. This allows the hook to point at an angle upwards so you have a better hook set. Also it allows the little strands on the jig to stand up straight and slowly fall down which imitates a crawfish in defense mode. I like watermelon green for my colors.
Hope that helps. :eyebrows:
On 4/4/2015 at 4:27 PM, BassinNCstyle said:Hello, I am trying to up my game in jig fishing this year. I have caught a few in the past on them but not well versed in jigs, so I have a few questions.
I fish mostly in ponds and use jigs to throw into fallen trees/brush.
1) Considering I am throwing into trees should I be using braid or is FC ok? I also use same rod for plastic this is why I'm thinking FC. Just not sure how abrasion FC is. I had lost a jig when casting with 15lb seagar invizx with line breaking while jig in the air. Makes me wonder if throwing in trees weakened the line. Any line suggestions appreciated.
2)What at and type should I be using for what I am using it for?
Thanks!!
1.I would recommend braid but FC should okay. Remember to always check your line for knots and line breaks.
2.I like the Boohyah Jigs with the football head. This for me works for everything. I would also add some sort of trailer. I like the colors watermelon green and black/blue.
What would be your favorite conditions to throw one in (i.e. clear skies, windy day, etc.)?
On 4/20/2015 at 8:39 AM, jacob2000 said:What would be your favorite conditions to throw one in (i.e. clear skies, windy day, etc.)?
Any.
On 4/20/2015 at 8:39 AM, jacob2000 said:What would be your favorite conditions to throw one in (i.e. clear skies, windy day, etc.)?
Overcast, slightly windy, work that sucker into some cover .
On 4/20/2015 at 8:39 AM, jacob2000 said:What would be your favorite conditions to throw one in (i.e. clear skies, windy day, etc.)?
Any and every condition. Never a bad time to throw a jig!
On 4/20/2015 at 8:39 AM, jacob2000 said:What would be your favorite conditions to throw one in (i.e. clear skies, windy day, etc.)?
I throw a jig almost everytime im out no matter the conditions unless the water is super murky but even then a black a blue jig with a rattle has been known to produce well.
If you want a nice stand up football jig, Check out Siebert's Derocker football jigs.
I am going to force myself to use jigs this year. I am a bank fisherman but I have some great summer places to do just that. I will keep an extra rig for OTHER types of fishing if I get bored but I will be damned if I do not do at least 90% of my bass fishing with jigs this summer.
On 5/7/2015 at 6:58 AM, sofarfrome said:I am going to force myself to use jigs this year. I am a bank fisherman but I have some great summer places to do just that. I will keep an extra rig for OTHER types of fishing if I get bored but I will be damned if I do not do at least 90% of my bass fishing with jigs this summer.
It can be tough, but results can also be very rewarding. One of the most fun ways to fish IMO. Once you get that first one, there's no going back.
My PB is with a black head jig, blue grub, black skirted. Bounced it off the bottom under a small bridge at a place called Coopers ditch, it was, and will be my go to from now till the end of time.
I have used jigs to success but I always find myself moving away from them to other "stuff". But not this year. If you see me using anything other than a jig I give you permission to slap me.
So will smaller bass attack a 3/8 oz jig or is it just the big girls thAt find it enticing
Smaller bass will smoke a 3/8 oz jig too. Your bass, most of the time, will be larger though. Jigs catch big bass!
How many jigs do you guys lose? I've been fishing football head jigs on rocks in 2-20 foot of water. On average, I lose one jig an hour due to hang ups. Is this normal?
I'm fishing mostly football head jigs with both 12# flourocarbon and 30# braid. I'm on a boat, so when I get hung up I troll over to the other side and jerk. I usually get my bait free. Usually.
Should I step up to 50-60 # braid? I don't mind losing 5-7 jigs per trip, but the wife sure doesn't like me buying replacements all the time!
Nixdorf, I think you should experiment with some different shaped heads, especially different line ties.
I'm fairly new to jigging for bass, so take my words with a grain of salt....but, I think that you'll learn far more about different bass jigs if you buy a few different ones and work them yourself. BassResources's jig videos are a good start. But, man....until you find what works for you....not just catching, but work them through the cover you fish...the bottom of your lakes/rivers...you just can't apply the words you read from anyone else all that well. At least I can't. Now this is NOT a knock, because I absolutely LOVE Mike's jigs, but even the Siebert site uses much the same description for a number of very different jigs. Your rocks, your hopping style, your line your skirt, your trailer are all going to have a unique effect on how you come through stuff.
What are some times of year/conditions when you guys throw a large profile jig? For example, the mata jigs from Siebert
On 5/28/2015 at 9:06 AM, MIbassin said:What are some times of year/conditions when you guys throw a large profile jig? For example, the mata jigs from Siebert
Just let the bass tell you what they want.....at all times.
On 9/13/2007 at 1:46 AM, Joe. S said:Here's a little piece I put together, The jig is my favorite lure to fish because of it's versatlity.
Representation,
First let's start with what a jig represents underwater, I believe the most
Popular use of it is to imitate a Crayfish but they also can imitate baitfish as well.
Jigs come in many different shapes, sizes and colors etc. The most popular crayfish imitators seem to be the good old skirted jig usually tipped with some sort of plastic or pork trailer.
Speaking of sizes, shapes, colors, I'm only going to really get into the skirted jig with a plastic or pork trailer as this is the bait I primarily use, and use it as a crayfish imitator only.
Sizes,
There is a very large size range available,
I mainly use 3 sizes of Jigs in my arsenal or depending on manufacturer the closest weight to these sizes 3/8 oz , ½ oz and ¾ oz.
I will mainly use a 3/8oz when fishing really shallow. The presentation has more time to be subtle because of the lighter weight than just crashing on the bottom in the shallow water.
1/2 oz. Jig
This is my go to, if there was only one jig weight aloud in my box, this would be it. I guess you could say the happy medium. I fish this 99 percent of the time from a regular bank down to 15 ft and anything in between.
The only time I go to a 3/4 oz. Is if I need to get through some thick weeds, the wind is really blowing or I am fishing dep but want to fish it faster than normal.
Colors,
I don't get crazy on colors when it comes to jigs. I have 3 colors that I have a ton of confidence in and those are Browns, Greens, and Black. It seems the jig has excepted rules on what colors for what conditions were faced with, green or brown, natural colors for clearer water and black or darker colors for murkier water or night time. I do follow that to a point but not because of the rule but because I have confidence in throwing those baits in those conditions. Ive caught fish in clear water with a black jig and fish in murky water and at night with a green jig so what's that tell us. Color is confidence in my book.
Trailers/Chunks
These come in many shapes and sizes, Most of them are made to represent the pincher end of the crayfish which are either threaded or simply hooked on to the jig.
I go rather simple in this area as far as selection.
I mainly use 3 colors in 2 sizes, Green, Brown and Black in 2 or 3 sizes I always match the color of the trailer with the jig, (just a confidence thing)
I will normally start off fishing with a 2 trailer in tournaments, I feel the smaller size may get me more bites in order to get my limit then I may upgrade trailer size to go after larger fish, but there is no rule here either, as I have caught fish over 6lbs. on 2 trailers and fish less than 12 on 3 trailers.
As far as the many styles and brands of trailers, my selection is simple I use my own, I feel they give me the best chances of catching fish and here is why: When a bass hits a jig they will normally engulf the whole lure, Jig and trailer. It only takes a split second for that fish to reject the bait if it notices anything artificial about it. When I make my trailers I add a lot of crayfish oil to the plastic prior to cooking then once poured they go through a 2 stage salting process. Once you get a fish to bite them they are hard pressed to let it go because there is so much taste for them. Because there is so much craw oil in the plastic it makes the baits very soft which helps release the oils and salt when the bait is bitten. (Shameless Plug I know, but the truth as well)
The Bite!
I have been fishing a jig predominantly for the last few years and have probably experienced every type of bite possible, but then again maybe not, sometimes you don't feel anything at all, then sometimes they almost rip the rod out of your hand, and then you have everything in between, you must always be ready to set the hook.
It is a must to be a line watcher when fishing a jig because you may not always be in direct contact with the lure, and the little twitch in the line that you didn't see could have been a 10 fish or the fish of a lifetime.
One thing I really like to do is know the depth of the water I'm casting to, I feel this is very important, a ½ oz jig on 15lb mono sinks at about 1ft per second. So I know if I'm casting it into 12ft of water and the line stops sinking when I count to 6, something sucked it in, reel in any slack and set the hook.
This is where I believe salts and scents are very handy, normally when I'm fishing a jig I'm fishing some type of structure, rocks, wood, grass, etc. with the equipment on the market you can pretty much feel everything the lure bumps into, when first getting into jig fishing I might have questioned myself was that a fish or a rock, don't know for sure. But now using my own baits and good equipment as well as a lot of time fishing the jig, I have the confidence in them to know that when I feel that little bump, I can pause and wait a second or two to see if there is any activity or lack there of on the end of the line before ramming the hook into a nice bass, or a stump.
Equipment:
For fishing these type and size of jigs, I use a 7' Heavy action bait casting rod, I feel this is very important and will not use a Jig on anything lighter, for a few reasons, 1.) These jigs normally have stout hooks that require a decent amount of force to get good penetration. I don't want to take the chance of losing a big fish because my rod didn't have enough power to drive the hook home, 2.) You have the weed guard to deal with as well when setting the hook. 3.) A lot of times the bass will really clamp down on a jig to crush it making it harder to move the jig on the set to get a good hook set, I noticed this especially with small mouth bass. As for the brand of rod that is personal preference but I think you should get the best you can afford in this area or the added sensitivity.
For a reel, I prefer High speed reels 6.1:1 or 6.3:1 and a decent amount of line retrieval per handle turn. I like this because I can pick up any slack really fast as well as keep up with the fish if it is charging towards me. This is another brand preference issue, I prefer smaller profile reels so I can palm the reel and rest the line going into the reel on my pointer finger for extra sensitivity.
Line
I mainly use 15 lb test mono line for most jig fishing, I don't really go any lighter than that, I will go heavier for certain situations depending on a few factors, structure or cover that I'm fishing, or even the size of the fish I have a chance at catching will dictate the size. In really clear water I will use fluorocarbon line for reduced visibility. And if I need to go above 20 lb mono for any reason I will switch to a braid for line diameter purposes. You can use any of the three all the time, these are just my preferences and how I utilize each for certain situations.
This is not intended to be a know all of Jig fishing document, these are the ways and equipment I personally like to use and have confidence in for the situations I face,(Notice the title) there are so many variables in fishing that could call for a different tactic from the lure type and size, to the tackle and line, it would be impossible to list them all.
Some techniques I use...
When I make a cast I let the bait sink, you must always watch your line, a lot of times they will hit it on the initial fall and your line will either twitch, stop before it should, or start going sideways, when this happens reel up the slack and set the hook. If the bait makes it to the bottom I will wait about 3 or 4 seconds and then drag it about 6-8 inches (Right now he's just cruising on the bottom), then pause, after 3-4 seconds drag again, and repeat this. Once I feel any obstruction, I pause then shake without dragging, I feel this simulates the crayfish trying to burrow under whatever obstacle it just bumped into. Then I give it 2 quick very short snaps, this would simulate the crayfish fleeing from a predator, then let it hit bottom and repeat the whole process. A lot of times right after the pause when you go to drag again it will feel heavy, set the hook. Hook sets are free, If you haven't fished a jig a lot , it takes time before you can get a really good handle on determining fish bites from obstructions. Practice makes perfect and when in doubt set the hook.
That's for mostly open water hump style fishing and beating a bank. In cover I like to throw it in the nastiest stuff possible and shake it around then repeat casting to it (pretty much pick it to pieces.)
Don't ever think there is such a thing as to shallow, I use to cast to about a foot off shore till a guy on the back of my boat beat me bad, the fish were in that spot right on the bank, now I cast to were I'm pretty much hitting the shoreline.
A most Excellent Post!
On 5/28/2015 at 12:02 AM, Choporoz said:Nixdorf, I think you should experiment with some different shaped heads, especially different line ties.
I'm fairly new to jigging for bass, so take my words with a grain of salt....but, I think that you'll learn far more about different bass jigs if you buy a few different ones and work them yourself. BassResources's jig videos are a good start. But, man....until you find what works for you....not just catching, but work them through the cover you fish...the bottom of your lakes/rivers...you just can't apply the words you read from anyone else all that well. At least I can't. Now this is NOT a knock, because I absolutely LOVE Mike's jigs, but even the Siebert site uses much the same description for a number of very different jigs. Your rocks, your hopping style, your line your skirt, your trailer are all going to have a unique effect on how you come through stuff.
Great response. Thank you.
Since the previous post, I did try a different head shape (Dredge Brush from Siebert). I rarely got hung up, and only lost one. I'm happy so far, but I'm going to keep experimenting.
Thanks for the tip!
Jackall has a new rubber jig head called the Spade jig
http://www.jackall-lures.com/products/spade_jig.html
I guess the rubber makes it sink a little slower looked interesting. Really like all there products
On 6/15/2015 at 8:06 PM, JayFry said:Jackall has a new rubber jig head called the Spade jig
http://www.jackall-lures.com/products/spade_jig.html
I guess the rubber makes it sink a little slower looked interesting. Really like all there products
That jig head is tungsten. It cuts down on the size of the jig for a more compact presentaion, also because tungsten is more dense than lead, vibrations are transmitted to the line, instead of deadened in the softness of lead.
On 9/13/2007 at 1:46 AM, Joe. S said:Here's a little piece I put together, The jig is my favorite lure to fish because of it's versatlity.
Representation,
First let's start with what a jig represents underwater, I believe the most
Popular use of it is to imitate a Crayfish but they also can imitate baitfish as well.
Jigs come in many different shapes, sizes and colors etc. The most popular crayfish imitators seem to be the good old skirted jig usually tipped with some sort of plastic or pork trailer.
Speaking of sizes, shapes, colors, I'm only going to really get into the skirted jig with a plastic or pork trailer as this is the bait I primarily use, and use it as a crayfish imitator only.
Sizes,
There is a very large size range available,
I mainly use 3 sizes of Jigs in my arsenal or depending on manufacturer the closest weight to these sizes 3/8 oz , ½ oz and ¾ oz.
I will mainly use a 3/8oz when fishing really shallow. The presentation has more time to be subtle because of the lighter weight than just crashing on the bottom in the shallow water.
1/2 oz. Jig
This is my go to, if there was only one jig weight aloud in my box, this would be it. I guess you could say the happy medium. I fish this 99 percent of the time from a regular bank down to 15 ft and anything in between.
The only time I go to a 3/4 oz. Is if I need to get through some thick weeds, the wind is really blowing or I am fishing dep but want to fish it faster than normal.
Colors,
I don't get crazy on colors when it comes to jigs. I have 3 colors that I have a ton of confidence in and those are Browns, Greens, and Black. It seems the jig has excepted rules on what colors for what conditions were faced with, green or brown, natural colors for clearer water and black or darker colors for murkier water or night time. I do follow that to a point but not because of the rule but because I have confidence in throwing those baits in those conditions. Ive caught fish in clear water with a black jig and fish in murky water and at night with a green jig so what's that tell us. Color is confidence in my book.
Trailers/Chunks
These come in many shapes and sizes, Most of them are made to represent the pincher end of the crayfish which are either threaded or simply hooked on to the jig.
I go rather simple in this area as far as selection.
I mainly use 3 colors in 2 sizes, Green, Brown and Black in 2 or 3 sizes I always match the color of the trailer with the jig, (just a confidence thing)
I will normally start off fishing with a 2 trailer in tournaments, I feel the smaller size may get me more bites in order to get my limit then I may upgrade trailer size to go after larger fish, but there is no rule here either, as I have caught fish over 6lbs. on 2 trailers and fish less than 12 on 3 trailers.
As far as the many styles and brands of trailers, my selection is simple I use my own, I feel they give me the best chances of catching fish and here is why: When a bass hits a jig they will normally engulf the whole lure, Jig and trailer. It only takes a split second for that fish to reject the bait if it notices anything artificial about it. When I make my trailers I add a lot of crayfish oil to the plastic prior to cooking then once poured they go through a 2 stage salting process. Once you get a fish to bite them they are hard pressed to let it go because there is so much taste for them. Because there is so much craw oil in the plastic it makes the baits very soft which helps release the oils and salt when the bait is bitten. (Shameless Plug I know, but the truth as well)
The Bite!
I have been fishing a jig predominantly for the last few years and have probably experienced every type of bite possible, but then again maybe not, sometimes you don't feel anything at all, then sometimes they almost rip the rod out of your hand, and then you have everything in between, you must always be ready to set the hook.
It is a must to be a line watcher when fishing a jig because you may not always be in direct contact with the lure, and the little twitch in the line that you didn't see could have been a 10 fish or the fish of a lifetime.
One thing I really like to do is know the depth of the water I'm casting to, I feel this is very important, a ½ oz jig on 15lb mono sinks at about 1ft per second. So I know if I'm casting it into 12ft of water and the line stops sinking when I count to 6, something sucked it in, reel in any slack and set the hook.
This is where I believe salts and scents are very handy, normally when I'm fishing a jig I'm fishing some type of structure, rocks, wood, grass, etc. with the equipment on the market you can pretty much feel everything the lure bumps into, when first getting into jig fishing I might have questioned myself was that a fish or a rock, don't know for sure. But now using my own baits and good equipment as well as a lot of time fishing the jig, I have the confidence in them to know that when I feel that little bump, I can pause and wait a second or two to see if there is any activity or lack there of on the end of the line before ramming the hook into a nice bass, or a stump.
Equipment:
For fishing these type and size of jigs, I use a 7' Heavy action bait casting rod, I feel this is very important and will not use a Jig on anything lighter, for a few reasons, 1.) These jigs normally have stout hooks that require a decent amount of force to get good penetration. I don't want to take the chance of losing a big fish because my rod didn't have enough power to drive the hook home, 2.) You have the weed guard to deal with as well when setting the hook. 3.) A lot of times the bass will really clamp down on a jig to crush it making it harder to move the jig on the set to get a good hook set, I noticed this especially with small mouth bass. As for the brand of rod that is personal preference but I think you should get the best you can afford in this area or the added sensitivity.
For a reel, I prefer High speed reels 6.1:1 or 6.3:1 and a decent amount of line retrieval per handle turn. I like this because I can pick up any slack really fast as well as keep up with the fish if it is charging towards me. This is another brand preference issue, I prefer smaller profile reels so I can palm the reel and rest the line going into the reel on my pointer finger for extra sensitivity.
Line
I mainly use 15 lb test mono line for most jig fishing, I don't really go any lighter than that, I will go heavier for certain situations depending on a few factors, structure or cover that I'm fishing, or even the size of the fish I have a chance at catching will dictate the size. In really clear water I will use fluorocarbon line for reduced visibility. And if I need to go above 20 lb mono for any reason I will switch to a braid for line diameter purposes. You can use any of the three all the time, these are just my preferences and how I utilize each for certain situations.
This is not intended to be a know all of Jig fishing document, these are the ways and equipment I personally like to use and have confidence in for the situations I face,(Notice the title) there are so many variables in fishing that could call for a different tactic from the lure type and size, to the tackle and line, it would be impossible to list them all.
Some techniques I use...
When I make a cast I let the bait sink, you must always watch your line, a lot of times they will hit it on the initial fall and your line will either twitch, stop before it should, or start going sideways, when this happens reel up the slack and set the hook. If the bait makes it to the bottom I will wait about 3 or 4 seconds and then drag it about 6-8 inches (Right now he's just cruising on the bottom), then pause, after 3-4 seconds drag again, and repeat this. Once I feel any obstruction, I pause then shake without dragging, I feel this simulates the crayfish trying to burrow under whatever obstacle it just bumped into. Then I give it 2 quick very short snaps, this would simulate the crayfish fleeing from a predator, then let it hit bottom and repeat the whole process. A lot of times right after the pause when you go to drag again it will feel heavy, set the hook. Hook sets are free, If you haven't fished a jig a lot , it takes time before you can get a really good handle on determining fish bites from obstructions. Practice makes perfect and when in doubt set the hook.
That's for mostly open water hump style fishing and beating a bank. In cover I like to throw it in the nastiest stuff possible and shake it around then repeat casting to it (pretty much pick it to pieces.)
Don't ever think there is such a thing as to shallow, I use to cast to about a foot off shore till a guy on the back of my boat beat me bad, the fish were in that spot right on the bank, now I cast to were I'm pretty much hitting the shoreline.
Joe S. - Great write-up. It gave me the confidence to commit to the jig for an evening. My confidence us boasted further after catching this guy on one of the first flips -
On 6/15/2015 at 9:53 PM, BradGuenette said:That jig head is tungsten. It cuts down on the size of the jig for a more compact presentaion, also because tungsten is more dense than lead, vibrations are transmitted to the line, instead of deadened in the softness of lead.
Kinda looks like rubberized tungsten. I believe it's cheaper to make heads from rubberized tungsten, also easier to make.
On 6/15/2015 at 9:53 PM, BradGuenette said:That jig head is tungsten. It cuts down on the size of the jig for a more compact presentaion, also because tungsten is more dense than lead, vibrations are transmitted to the line, instead of deadened in the softness of lead.
Actually, this jig works in reverse. The head is tungsten and rubber, which is lower in density than lead. Also, I've never equated lthe relative pliability of lead as "deadened." If it feels dead to you, your rod needs upgrading!
Got this one on about 3 pounder
Blue/Black football head 3/8oz
Damiki hydra junebug color
Hit right on top of a bed of weeds he hit it on top. I was fishing from behind cat tails so I had to walk out in some ankle high water to get him but well worth it. Haha it was pour a couple minutes before but I wanted to try out new shimano sellus 7'2 worm jig pole. Helped get a good hook set from a distance. Something I've been having a huge issue with when casting 50 yards.
I fish jigs year around because with specific adjustments you can tune the jig to the seasonal pattern they are on. Very basic examples of how I do it are as follows:
Jig fishing tip:
Thursday through Saturday I caught tons of fish on jigs. Never had a legit hit. Everyone they picked it up and either sat there or started moving ever so slightly. So advice for the day. If you make a handful of pitches to the same spot and feel the same thing each pitch, then another pitch something feels "off" that's a fish! And I'll reiterate what's been said 100s of times. Watch your line! With exception of maybe 1 tick bite that felt like a bluegill, ended up being a 4lb LMB, I never felt any of them.
Anybody ever tested the ROF of a jig? I know there are tons of factors like jig weight, thickness of skirt, trailer type/weight, etc. I Just wanted to know if anyone has tried it. What weight and trailer?
Jig = Best bass lure of all time in my opinion.
My tips for success:
I haven't done any accurate rate of fall testing, but I have a simple method to do this on the water. It is not very accurate, but it works for me with any jig/trailer combo. I use it to estimate when the jig should hit bottom, and has been useful for detecting strikes on the fall.On 6/27/2015 at 3:17 PM, Ozark_Basser said:Anybody ever tested the ROF of a jig? I know there are tons of factors like jig weight, thickness of skirt, trailer type/weight, etc. I Just wanted to know if anyone has tried it. What weight and trailer?
Before I start fishing deep water, I strip out a little line until my jig is roughly even with my rod handle. Then I drop the jig in the water with the tip of my pole close to the water and count down until the line goes tight. I usually use a pole that is 7' long, and most of my 3/4 oz jig/trailer combos pull the line tight in roughly 5 seconds. Obviously, the rate of fall for the above is 7 feet per 5 seconds. This time of year, I'm usually fishing water that is 20 foot deep, so the jig should be on the bottom within 15 seconds.
Again, this isn't accurate, but it gives me a good indication of when the jig should hit bottom. When I cast and my jig hits the water, I strip out line by hand and count to 15. If my line stops moving (sinking) well before it should be on bottom or well after, I set the hook. I've caught fish both ways, but have had a few misses.
Not sure if this helps or even makes sense, but it works for me.
Dirty Jigs makes some excellent jigs! Thru trial and error, Rage Tail Craws and Netbait make the best trailers IMO
On 6/27/2015 at 8:03 PM, fireandice said:
- The reel is not that important! Any decent baitcaster will work. You don't need a $600 Calais to pitch a jig all day.
I'm a relatively recent convert to the church of jig bassin, but I am struggling a little with this point. Maybe it is because the jig rod is in my hands 80% of the time, but I've gotten somewhat picky and use my best reel for throwing the jig.
-I want the smoothest free spooling action for pitching and punching and 'tossing'
-The handles/grips have to be very comfortable - prolonged use, not to mention the hardest hooksets and dragging from cover make the handle/grips more important than I ever thought possible
-My 'cheaper' reels seem to be great for spinnerbaits, worms, jerkbaits, even frogs, but I want my best, most comfortable and fastest reel on my jig rod.
I agree that the rod is absolutely critical as well....and I won't debate which is more important to spend more money on, but don't go cheap on your jig rod reel.
Nothing but respect to you Choporoz. To each his own. I can understand why.you want a reel that works well. I guess even my worst reel I would consider to be good equipment. I just tend to reserve my smoothest casting equipment for making long casts with Carolina rigs or light baits that need to go a long distance. Either way, I'm glad you are a fellow jig thrower. I appreciate your take on the subject. I'm no guru by any means. Lol
So, what size jigs do the Rage Lobsters fit on nicely? I use the baby rage craws for 3/8 oz jig.
On 7/4/2015 at 3:21 AM, BassTravis said:So, what size jigs do the Rage Lobsters fit on nicely? I use the baby rage craws for 3/8 oz jig.
BassTravis,
I use the 3/8 a lot as well, have you tried the rage tail menace? I've been getting hawgs like crazy the past few times out with that in blue flake or watermelon. Also I see you're from Columbus,GA, i'll be moving there in December hopefully I can find some good holes. Good luck to ya
On 7/8/2015 at 11:34 PM, jkoz88 said:BassTravis,
I use the 3/8 a lot as well, have you tried the rage tail menace? I've been getting hawgs like crazy the past few times out with that in blue flake or watermelon. Also I see you're from Columbus,GA, i'll be moving there in December hopefully I can find some good holes. Good luck to ya
Are you in the military? When you move here, shoot me a pm. I could tell you SEVERAL good places around here to fish
On 7/8/2015 at 11:52 PM, BassTravis said:Are you in the military? When you move here, shoot me a pm. I could tell you SEVERAL good places around here to fish
Yes, I will be coming there to be a Drill so not sure how much time I have but I will shoot you a message and hopefully you could tell me/show me some spots, thanks and have a good one.
When fishing along the shore and throwing a jig, sometimes I see bass lazily cruising along the shore, by the time I reel my jig in, they are nowhere to be seen. When that happens, do you pitch directly to the fish? or just ahead of him?
-Joshua
This might of been mentioned, but I'll mention it anyway. Another technique is skipping the jig, to get into those low hanging tree places or under those docks. A little tough from shore but doable.
I use the Booyah Baby Boo jigs with a rage tail baby craw trailer and there hasn't been a single time I have been out and not caught anything. I stay stocked on them at all times. Hands down the best lure/jig I have ever used. I highly recommend them in green pumpkin. You won't be disappointed.
On 6/29/2015 at 10:37 PM, Choporoz said:I'm a relatively recent convert to the church of jig bassin, but I am struggling a little with this point. Maybe it is because the jig rod is in my hands 80% of the time, but I've gotten somewhat picky and use my best reel for throwing the jig.
-I want the smoothest free spooling action for pitching and punching and 'tossing'
-The handles/grips have to be very comfortable - prolonged use, not to mention the hardest hooksets and dragging from cover make the handle/grips more important than I ever thought possible
-My 'cheaper' reels seem to be great for spinnerbaits, worms, jerkbaits, even frogs, but I want my best, most comfortable and fastest reel on my jig rod.
I agree that the rod is absolutely critical as well....and I won't debate which is more important to spend more money on, but don't go cheap on your jig rod reel.
Me too, but that's still not a $600 reel. It's a BPS Johnny Morris I bought off Ebay and then sent to BPS to fix. Got $70 in it. Even if I bought it new today it would only be $159. But you can really feel the quality in it. That thing's bearings have bearings. I think I'll buy another when I need a replacement. Now I just need to wait for one to break.
I never considered it before, but that's a great way to save some dough. Buy someone's worn out junk and get them to fix it for $20.
On 6/28/2015 at 10:21 AM, BassTravis said:Dirty Jigs makes some excellent jigs! Thru trial and error, Rage Tail Craws and Netbait make the best trailers IMO
my thoughts exactly!! only jigs ill buy and rage craw trailer are by far the most productive trailers i've ever used
Whats your favorite black and blue jig that you always can count on when fishing?
Thanks Butch
On 10/17/2015 at 10:05 AM, Blwaz23 said:Whats your favorite black and blue jig that you always can count on when fishing?
Siebert Storm Series Brush head in 'Roadwarrior' color.
On 10/19/2015 at 9:07 PM, Choporoz said:Siebert Storm Series Brush head in 'Roadwarrior' color
Thank you
Well, I FINALLY caught my first bass on a jig. Someone please call Guinness book of World records! Granted, he was small and might not keep in a tournament, but I did it.
On the down side he should not have been my first jig bass. I lost a monster the weekend before at my buddy's fathers private pond. That bass was big! I had hit a branch in the water several times and knew that "tap," was coming. Hit the jig with it, then the jig just got "heavier," to move. I would pull the rod tip back, then reel in the slack line. Needless to say when I finally realized it was a bass, I was at the end of my swing and had very little room left to set the hook. Fournetaly, I fought him for about 5 seconds and got to see he was about 6 lbs before he gave me the middle fin and got off. I wanted to break my Powell Endurance over my knee right there, ugh! (Also, some small kids next to me learned some new words.)
LOL yeah always disheartening when you stick a pig, happened to me too at a local res not known for bass fishin anymore, coulda easily been my PB. Mine was rookie mistake by letting line go slack when he was at the bank
i just started pouring and making my own weedless football jigs quick question,,,, i like to use a hula grub and skip docks with them only problem is my hula grub slips off the keeper and its pushed back around the bend of the hook any suggestions on how to improve my keeper so i can skip with them with the bait in tact and no slippage?
On 11/11/2015 at 12:40 PM, purdue92 said:i just started pouring and making my own weedless football jigs quick question,,,, i like to use a hula grub and skip docks with them only problem is my hula grub slips off the keeper and its pushed back around the bend of the hook any suggestions on how to improve my keeper so i can skip with them with the bait in tact and no slippage?
I remember seeing a product called a bait button. Might work for you?
On 11/11/2015 at 12:46 PM, stk said:I remember seeing a product called a bait button. Might work for you?
just looked that up thanks but thats not going to work. i seen some jigs at the stores they have a wire you have to push down to that helps to keep the keeper on not sure how i rig that on a handpour football jig
Honestly jigs are my favorite technique. You can swim them, flip, pitch, skip, punch, hop, and just about anything you can imagine. I love the versatility. Finesse jigs are great too. The hits you get are hard and the hook sets are crazy fun. They flat out put fish in the boat.
I just started using a jig and craw recently. I seem to have a pendulum effect once my bait hits the water. I do not thumb the spool or rotate the handle at all. Should I possibly loosen the spool tension or do I need to just micro-manage pulling line from spool until it hits bottom?
On 11/19/2015 at 6:44 AM, laduckhunter said:I just started using a jig and craw recently. I seem to have a pendulum effect once my bait hits the water. I do not thumb the spool or rotate the handle at all. Should I possibly loosen the spool tension or do I need to just micro-manage pulling line from spool until it hits bottom?
You can loosen the tension, just remember before you stop pitching and start casting. What weight is your jig?
On 11/19/2015 at 6:52 AM, Todd2 said:You can loosen the tension, just remember before you stop pitching and start casting. What weight is your jig?
Right now all I have are 1/2 oz jigs.
On 11/19/2015 at 7:07 AM, laduckhunter said:Right now all I have are 1/2 oz jigs.
Yeah, you should be fine loosening the tension unless you're talking about deep water and then it doesn't hurt to strip off some line slowly.
I mostly fish 3/8, but am loading up on some 1/2 oz for next year. I got away from the jig some this year and I think my big fish numbers show that.
I wanted to say a big thanks to everybody who has contributed to this thread. You guys inspired me to pick up a jig and fish with it until I caught something. I've been using them for almost a year now and am absolutely in love with their versatility and fish-catching ablility. They've produced some of my biggest fish this year, and you certainly won't find me putting them down.
Thanks for sharing your knowledge! You've won another convert to jig addiction
For black friday I picked up 2 of the siebert dredge jig packs in both 3/8th and 1/2.
Still have yet to catch a fish on a jig, but then again I havent given it much of a chance. Determined to put them to good use here in the springtime.
I felt compelled to try jigs after this article and first cast started in them. I went to a spot that I always do well and tried other baits first to know the fish were there. I picked up my jig and began pulling them in. Nothing big just a couple of 3lbs fish maybe 4lbs. Lost a 5lbs fish (only fish I lost lol) broke the surface, rolled over, waved, shook it's head and left me yelling obscenities. Broke off a big fish in another spot. Set the hook felt a big shake and popped my 20lbs leader. I hate to admit it but think I should have checked my line. I ordered more jigs once i got off the water lol. Thanks for the tips. Pic is of my first jig fish.
I am new to Jig fishing. I purchased some jigs in hopes to learn how to properly fish them.
I have a couple of questions,
When is the proper time to use a jig?
How do I work the lure?
Are trailers required? and What advantages do they add?
Any help or advice would be appreciated.
Hey man! I love jigs, probably because they bite 'em all year here on Lake Norman, they're good just about anytime, you just need to know when and where, generally there will always be dock fish that want it, deeper fish may eat it if you find a school of 'em on a ledge but I generally fish primarily docks and rip rap with them
as far as the retrieve goes, I would invest some time into learning how to skip a jig under docks, the further back, the more fish, let it sink to the bottom and here's where you can get creative, generally you want a mixture of drags across the bottom and small hops, this doesn't mean rip it like a spoon, a little shake of the rod tip will do, try the drag, drag, hop technique and remember to fish slow, if you think you're fishing too slow, slow down!
As for trailers, you are basically fishing the trailer, that is your primary lure, the skirt is just the icing on the cake, I prefer small chunk trailers and I don't just poke the hook through the middle, I have a video on how to do it here: https://youtu.be/DchP1sBDXf8, I run the hook all the way throught the bait, the normal plastic tears up easily with he skipping, that's why I prefer, the Zman batwingz in 2.75'' because it doesn't rip up and it floats but you can also throw craws on there, and if you're swimming the jig here and there, I would HIGHLY recommend using a twin tail grub as your trailer.
Well, Good luck to you and I hope you catch a hog!
I was in your same boat about 3 years ago, always heard about jigs and BIG bass biting them. A couple absolute MUSTS for fishing a jig.
* A fast baitcasting reel, when fishing a jig the bite usually occurs on the fall so you will need to be able to pick up line in a hurry AND picking up line is must when setting the hook through the brush gaurd.
* A stout rod at least 6'8", preferably a 7'2" Heavy action. Again, The ability to swing and pick up alot of line is KEY to hookin up with a jig. Also the Heavy action is necessary to set the hook through the brush gaurd.
* Braided line when you can get away with it. Only if the water you are fishing is CRYSTAL clear I would use braid solely for its' sensitivity, nothing compares to the feel you get with braid.
* As far as the bait itself, different head styles are very important if you don't wanna spend your day snagged in logs, brush or rocks.
Pitching/ Flipping jig styles are best for all around cover but especially for logs and brush.
Football Jig styles are superb at not getting nestled between rocks and boulders
Swim jigs/ Punch jigs are better for grass and weeds. Milfoil, cabbage etc.
* Trailers are determined by what you are trying to imitate, unless you are using a swim jig or "swimming" your other style jigs you should be imitating crawfish. Swim jigs you will want to use swimbaits or paddle style trailers.
* Colors for me are based on the water clarity and bottom color. Crawfish naturally blend into their environment as their camouflage is their main defense against predators. So generally natural colors, maybe some highlight colors to catch the fishes attention. Darker for muddier water, lighter and more subtle for clearer water. Don't underestimate a fishes eyesight, get to your body of water and tie on your jig, drop it in the water where you can see it against the bottom, you want it to be the same hue as the bottom generally.
* First off you must get good at subtle and near silent entries into th ewater with your jig, plenty of great videos on youtube showing flipping and pitchin techniques. I fish out of a kayak 90% of the time and therefore cant flip or pitch, I have found a good roll cast with your wrist can work almost as well. Fishing Technique for me is based on contact with the cover and bottom. I want to feel what kind of cover I am fishing, dragging, hopping and popping the jig off or over anything it comes in contact with is KEY! Crawfish DO swim but most of the time they are getting around by crawling and climbing over stuff. It will take practice discerning between the log you just pulled your jig into and the classic "knock" of a bass biting your jig. Again this is why braided line is soooo nice to help you feel the difference. When in doubt SWING BATTER BATTER! Hooksets are free my friend.
* As with all techniques practice makes, not perfect, but CONFIDENCE! Once you get the "feel" down for this bait it will be hard to put down because of its ability to pick apart high percentage areas for bass.
Check out Dirty Jigs, GREAT colors, hooks and head styles to choose from.
I'm sure d**n near everything has been covered but I'll add my little wrinkle. Crawdads molt every full moon, so I if the moon is 80% full waxing or waning I'll throw a jig & trailer with a bright orange or bright red accent to it because they look gnarly when they molt.
During the spawn (late Feb to late March) I'll always throw a jig with some purple in it so it mimics an egg stealing blue gill.
Most the fish you catch on a jig will make the weigh in, so you owe it to yourself to work one in.
Not sure if this info has been covered in the thread, but I was reading through some old jig threads and found this post by WRB which I thought was awesome and would help the new jig fisherman.
"The mistakes most new jig anglers make that normally T-rig a soft plastic worm is use too heavy weight jig with a compact hook/ head design and create too much uncontrolled slack during the retrieve.
Without knowing what type of jig you are fishing with, my suggestion for a casting jig is a football head design that has more distance between the hook point and jig head than a flipping/pitching type (Arkie) style jig.
The next item is the jig hook; use jigs with premium sharp hooks with standard wire, not a heavy wire hook when using lighter line.
Always use a trailer when casting and retrieving a jig. The trailer should be a high floating or not a soft plastic with heavy salt added. Trailers with good swimming action at slow retrieve speed or falling down through the water on controlled slack line is important. I am not familiar with RageTails, they look great, GY twin tail grubs work good. When I teach new jig anglers to cast and retrieve a jig, my suggestion is a 3/8 oz plain GY wire guard football head with GY 4" twin tail Hula grub, color similar to what the T-rig worm is that works for you.
You can make up a similar jig using sponsored components.
Bass tend to hold onto a T-rigged worm longer than they will with a jig, so you needed to detect the strike and set the hook instantly. The bite is quicker so concentrate on the jig and don't loose contact with it always feeling some slight weight. The classic tick bite is easy to detect, all other bite not so easy. Fishing jigs we have a saying "swings are free" so set the hook when you feel anything odd with the jig, vibration, getting lighter, sudden stop, the line move.
Hook sets; when casting a jig over 30' away, I use the reel set with rod sweep, keeping the rod tip lower than a T-rig so I can sweep the rod back firmly. When the jig is closer or more vertical I use the snap set, whipping the rod into the controlled slack line. Never lower the rod and take up slack with a jig, you will miss 90% or more of the jig strikes.
Good fishing.
Tom"
I haven't taken the time to read 18 pages of comments. My apologies if this has already been discussed.
1. Color is dependent to what crayfish are eating.
2. There two main types of crayfish. Those the burrow in dirt or mud and those who seek shelter in rocks.
3. Reason red is so popular in south relates to burrowing crayfish eating minerals out red clay dirt.
4. Same if the soil is black crawfish have tendency to be black.
5. Crayfish that live in rocks, rip rap tend to to be more green/pumpking, brown oriented eating zoo plankton. Generally speaking.
Best jig trailers?
On 1/7/2016 at 9:21 AM, Blwaz23 said:Best jig trailers?
Zoom chunk jr. and super chunk. Speed craw for action or rage craw. I like my jigs compact so I favor the chunk jr.
Hey, I'm new to jig fishing so excuse me for my ignorance.
So I tried one at our local lake yesterday and honestly I don't think I can use a jig there. Every time I brought it in it was covered with muck (algae, leaves, etc...)
Is this normal? Am I doing something wrong?
On 2/22/2016 at 4:52 AM, Tracker22 said:Hey, I'm new to jig fishing so excuse me for my ignorance.
So I tried one at our local lake yesterday and honestly I don't think I can use a jig there. Every time I brought it in it was covered with muck (algae, leaves, etc...)
Is this normal? Am I doing something wrong?
When you feel the algae and other gunk get on your jig (and do it in the middle of your retrieve even if you do not feel any gunk because chances are there is something on it) quickly pop the rod tip up hard a few times, trying to shake or pop the junk of your bait, cleaning it. You can do this so the jig moves only a few feet, staying in the water and in the strike zone, braid works the best for this technique. Also you can use a lighter jig, a swimming retrieve, and using a bigger trailer like a double wide beaver and full sized brushhog, to reduce the rate fall, doubling up on jig skirts also accomplishes this.
Can anyone tell me a good all purpose jig, one that I can fish on the bottom and swim it
Siebert Outdoors Dredge Mata Brush Jig
http://www.siebertoutdoors.com/Dredge-Mata-Brush-443.htm
New to fishing and was just wondering if you guys use braid or fluorocarbon for your line. What strength line are you guys using? Thanks
On 3/11/2016 at 11:36 PM, Mokujon said:New to fishing and was just wondering if you guys use braid or fluorocarbon for your line. What strength line are you guys using? Thanks
I've tried baid... not a fan, but that just me. Flouro is good. I'd go with at least 15 lb up to 20lb. Never broke off with 15lb. 17 lb is probly more popular. Just check knots and line Frays every so often when fishing. If you decide on braid start with at least 40 lb. Not for strength purposes though, 40 lb braid line diameter is just thick enough so it doesn't dig into itself on the spool of your baitcaster.
On 3/12/2016 at 1:33 AM, Bruce424 said:I've tried baid... not a fan, but that just me. Flouro is good. I'd go with at least 15 lb up to 20lb. Never broke off with 15lb. 17 lb is probly more popular. Just check knots and line Frays every so often when fishing. If you decide on braid start with at least 40 lb. Not for strength purposes though, 40 lb braid line diameter is just thick enough so it doesn't dig into itself on the spool of your baitcaster.
To add to the #40 braid comment, it also stands less of a chance of being damaged when you have to dig out a backlash. I am, unfortunately, speaking from a fair amount of experience. Sufix 832 #40 to the rescue, LOL!
I jig fish a lot. I have 2 or 3 rods with differ jigs tied on. Each one has a differs color and weight and a different trailers. Daddy always said if you move it you are going too fast and use any color you like as long as it is BLUE! LOL. Also we "knock the wood." Pitch the jig and hit a cypress tree and let the jig slide down the tree. Usually get hit as it is sliding down the tree. Tie them on and fish them, they are fun to use and usually catch bigger fish.
On 3/11/2016 at 11:36 PM, Mokujon said:New to fishing and was just wondering if you guys use braid or fluorocarbon for your line. What strength line are you guys using? Thanks
I fish jigs a ton and have tried both braid and flouro....I am currently on year 2 of using 12# yo zuri hybrid as it came highly praised from the forums. I love it, my knot issues and break offs have drastically decreased, don't feel like I've lost sensitivity and it's very strong/abrasion resistant. My 2 cents, works for me
One of the most comprehensive videos on this subject!
http://www.bassmaster.com/video/bassmaster-university-flipping-and-pitching
Being new to jig fishing and I now have a few of them. What colors are best for the jig??? I have a black and blue and a brownish one and a white one. I know these question come up all the time so sorry if this question gets old. One more thing, How many jigs are to many???
On 3/31/2016 at 12:59 PM, Justbass11 said:Being new to jig fishing and I now have a few of them. What colors are best for the jig??? I have a black and blue and a brownish one and a white one. I know these question come up all the time so sorry if this question gets old. One more thing, How many jigs are to many???
For flipping/casting jigs, by far the most popular colors are:
Black&Blue,PB&J, Green Pumkpin.
For swimjigs add in any sort of shad color, and a bluegill/sunfish color.
On 3/11/2016 at 11:36 PM, Mokujon said:New to fishing and was just wondering if you guys use braid or fluorocarbon for your line. What strength line are you guys using? Thanks
I use both fc and braid for jig fishing I like braid in heavy cover because I feel like it. Cuts through weeds with little effort. I use fc for swimming jigs and lighter jigs. I never use fc leaders for jig fishing
On 3/6/2016 at 8:47 AM, kybasspro said:Can anyone tell me a good all purpose jig, one that I can fish on the bottom and swim it
My favorite all purpose jig would be an Arkie head jig. Try a Santone lures rattlin jig because they are great all purpose jigs. Don't be afraid to remove the rattle if you're not getting bit, just stick it in your pocket so you'll have it later. I'm not affiliated and you can try other jigs such as a dirty jigs Luke Clausen Casting jig or even a *** would be great... I just like the versatility of a rattling jig by Santone lures. Tight Lines!
-Justis
In my opinion there is a jig for almost ever senior that you could encounter while out fishing. That is something you will have to put the time on the water and research off the water on your own. As far as trailers go, I never fish a jig without one. They add size as well as make the jig appear more life like. I trail my swim jigs with a soft plastic swimbait most times, and train my pitching jigs with some variation of a craw.
doesnt anyone use pork rinds anymore? they have got to be the number 1 trailer for jigs, and i like the fact that they hold scents better than any other trailer made. I still have some and still use them
On 6/3/2016 at 11:27 PM, Keith "Hamma" Hatch said:doesnt anyone use pork rinds anymore? they have got to be the number 1 trailer for jigs, and i like the fact that they hold scents better than any other trailer made. I still have some and still use them
I believe at least two factors have contributed to the rather overwhelming reduction of Pork trailer use.
The most obvious is the massive influx of super convenient & arguably just as effective (but not very durable) soft plastics available today.
Then add the popularity of "bass tournament" style fishing where an angler is running & gunning, often leaving a pile of rigged rods on the deck for an extended period of time. Pork baits often dry out rendering them fairly useless.
Soft plastic trailers have a distinct advantage here and one that the younger generation of bass anglers who might have never used pork, ever even think about.
I was an avid pork user & abuser for many years, especially surf fishing saltwater - trailers would literally last for months - seemed the more beat up they got, the better they worked. I've completely abandoned their use in my bass fishing quite a while ago though opting instead become a SK Rage Tail using Freak.
A-Jay
I still have a few jars of pork. But, the challenge of getting them off a hook (even before dry) is enough to send me to plastic most days.
On 6/3/2016 at 11:47 PM, A-Jay said:I believe at least two factors have contributed to the rather overwhelming reduction of Pork trailer use.
The most obvious is the massive influx of super convenient & arguably just as effective (but not very durable) soft plastics available today.
Then add the popularity of "bass tournament" style fishing where an angler is running & gunning, often leaving a pile of rigged rods on the deck for an extended period of time. Pork baits often dry out rendering them fairly useless.
Soft plastic trailers have a distinct advantage here and one that the younger generation of bass anglers who might have never used pork, ever even think about.
I was an avid pork user & abuser for many years, especially surf fishing saltwater - trailers would literally last for months - seemed the more beat up they got, the better they worked. I've completely abandoned their use in my bass fishing quite a while ago though opting instead become a SK Rage Tail using Freak.
A-Jay
I have those wraps to keep them wet all day, works great
On 6/4/2016 at 12:11 AM, Choporoz said:I still have a few jars of pork. But, the challenge of getting them off a hook (even before dry) is enough to send me to plastic most days.
if you turn them sideways they slide right off,..its just a small slit cut into them. think about it
I still use them, and have had no issues whatsoever, when cared for properly. I have some twin tails, and zoom salty chunk jrs. Yamamoto hula grubs, etc. Which I use in the dog days of summer for the quicker fall. But in spring and fall i reach for no.11 pork rinds and in winter even the smaller 101. "Yall keep fishin ya plastic, whence i gets me back on my feet an back in tournies, we'll see what fishes so well!",...lol.,,, Almost like I belong in the bayou, old greybearded stuck in his ways ornery cuss! Ok maybe not,...but i definately dont fit in up here in boston,...more like alabama, fishin pickwick, and wilson, wheeler and guntersville, etc. I liked that chain...or out in the woods of wisconsin or michigan fishin some of those hidden smallie gems, with a few muskie on the side.
oh how quickly the bucket list grows when you take up fishing
Using a trailer with a jig helps increase the profile of a jig, which will result in the angler catching bigger fish.
You can either hop or drag a jig. For the retrieval, you really just have to let the bass tell you what they want.
I have jigs tied on year round and mostly throw them around laydowns and structure. You can work a jig many different ways... Drag it, hop it, swim it and feel the bottom as your doing it. I always have a trailer to give it a bigger presentation and add action too it. Try to match it to the type of forage in your ponds/lakes.Good luck!
New to jigs used one yesterday and caught 2 solid bass one was probably a 4, most places that I fish are very weedy and I almost always bring in weeds, are certain types of jigs more weed proof than others and does trimming off some of the weed guard make it less weedless?
I just asked about jigs in grass the other day.
The responses were very helpful... FWIW, I didn't find that the weedguard trim made a ton of difference, but YMMV.
On 9/12/2007 at 11:15 PM, jaskoh said:When is the proper time to use a jig? Year Round IMO
How do I work the lure? For me 75% of the time they hit it on the intitial fall. So make a good presentation and thats half the battle. If not let it settle to the bottom. Lift the Jig off the bottom and let it settle again. Some people swim these baits but I have very little experience in that.
Are trailers required? and What advantages do they add? I always use trailers. Different size ones in different situations but always use them. It makes the jig drop slower which keeps it in front of the Bass' nose for a longer period of time. Not to mention the movement of the trailer creats more vibrations in the water.
I'm not big into Jigs but i've noticed the same thing, i'd like 85% of the time they hit it on the initial cast and rarely get them on the retrieve so when bringing it back in i usually just pull it up and let her drop over n over
I read all 19 pages, but if I missed this question answered I apologize. I fish a lake with a silty bottom and clear water. When I drag or hop a jig it seems to just annoy the bass with the big cloud of brown silt. Is this still a good technique or should I fish a jig differently here?
This is a great thread by the way, I learned a ton reading it.
I go lighter in places like that.
On 9/2/2016 at 1:22 AM, Hooked_stl said:I read all 19 pages, but if I missed this question answered I apologize. I fish a lake with a silty bottom and clear water. When I drag or hop a jig it seems to just annoy the bass with the big cloud of brown silt. Is this still a good technique or should I fish a jig differently here?
This is a great thread by the way, I learned a ton reading it.
I would imagine lighter and smaller would help. But in a lot of ways you're imitating a craw anyways and I would imagine that a craw swimming would do the same silt cloud. May work in your favor.
when you say lighter, do you mean a lighter weight jig? I'm using a 3/8 oz now.
You could experiment with 1/4oz or maybe a different shape 3/8oz jig. Try a smaller profile jig trailer as well.
On 9/2/2016 at 1:46 AM, stk said:You could experiment with 1/4oz or maybe a different shape 3/8oz jig. Try a smaller profile jig trailer as well.
I'll give that a shot. Thanks. After reading this thread I respooled my reel with fluoro and I'm determined the learn the fine art of jig fishing.
On 9/2/2016 at 1:45 AM, Hooked_stl said:when you say lighter, do you mean a lighter weight jig? I'm using a 3/8 oz now.
Yeah, lighter weight. Like 1/4 oz, maybe less. You could try different approach, like a 3/32 wacky jig and flick shake worm.
Trailers are pretty much needed in my opinion the are what customizes the presentation. I use jigs quite a bit. I fish fast and slow is summer. slow at mid day fast at dawn and sun down.
Wow...just read all 19 pages...what a great thread...still...almost 10 years later.
Lots of good info here
awesome video i watched about not missing fish on jigs and the hook set.
This was a great Sunday morning read.....learned a lot. I love jig fishing as my biggest fish has been on them,,,,I just loose to many. Goal for the Winter is to acquire a dedicated jig setup...
Anyone tried the zero gravity jigs? I just got one and am curious if anyone uses them or has trailer advice.
My favorite jig lately has been a baby booyah jig with a paca trailer. I'm really having fun finesse jigging.
A-Jay
Use jigs all year long and you need trailers to give it the better presentation. They may be suddle hits so watch you line in the water.
On 9/12/2007 at 11:15 PM, jaskoh said:When is the proper time to use a jig? Year Round IMO
How do I work the lure? For me 75% of the time they hit it on the intitial fall. So make a good presentation and thats half the battle. If not let it settle to the bottom. Lift the Jig off the bottom and let it settle again. Some people swim these baits but I have very little experience in that.
Are trailers required? and What advantages do they add? I always use trailers. Different size ones in different situations but always use them. It makes the jig drop slower which keeps it in front of the Bass' nose for a longer period of time. Not to mention the movement of the trailer creats more vibrations in the water.
Very well Said!!! Couldn't have answered it any better!! Good info! But I would direct him to YOUTUBE for the most help, with size, weight, head type, so many different varieties depending on the type of lakes/pond he is fishing in.! Great words of wisdom though!
19 pages loaded with information, and you want to tell somebody to go somewhere else "for the most help"? Seriously?
This is a long thread and I can't read each question and answer.
Does anyone else cut the weedguards on their jigs? I typically do, yet I get snagged a lot. I guess the real question is: does anyone see a difference between not trimming the weedguard and trimming it?
On 4/7/2017 at 12:27 AM, Zeeter said:This is a long thread and I can't read each question and answer.
Does anyone else cut the weedguards on their jigs? I typically do, yet I get snagged a lot. I guess the real question is: does anyone see a difference between not trimming the weedguard and trimming it?
What brand and style of Jig is getting you snagged up a lot? I mean fishing Jigs where fish are will get snagged it happens but what are you calling a lot? Every other cast every 10 to 15 casts? Are you bank or boat?
Fishing from a boat I have occasionally set the hook in a less than desirable object. I fish in the logs and trees pretty often but don't get hung up maybe 3 or 4 times a day. I mean hung up where I have to go get it if I want my jig back. Bank fishing I probably leave a few places I might have found a bass just because I calculated the odds of losing a favorite jig vs what I thought I might pull out of the spot fish wise. I fish for fun and I don't always take the high risk vs reward casts.
I do not trim the weed guards. I have removed some strands to weaken a overly stiff guard. If you "trim" it stiffens the bristles. I like a soft guard it doesn't take much to keep the small jig clear from getting the hook accidentally exposed. That is all I need the guard to do.
I have been using a lot of Siebert Outdoors jigs over the last 7-8 months and never touch the guard. That little extra length doesn't hurt a thing from my experience. Maybe in a jig that had a lesser design where the guard was standing more vertical but even then trimming it wouldn't cure that.
As you can see Mike @Siebert Outdoors has the guard laid back slightly above the hook. This allows the jig to easily glide over cover and is at a great angle where there is little resistance from the bite of a fish. I found he uses a stiff enough guard that it gets through cover and yet its soft enough that it will collapse easily when bit.
On 12/15/2016 at 1:26 AM, Glenn said:19 pages loaded with information, and you want to tell somebody to go somewhere else "for the most help"? Seriously?
Well Glenn you do have a YouTube channel (It's even in your signature each time you post) and some people do like to visually see what people are explaining.
I don't think, although I could be mistaken, that AnglingNvirginia meant any disrespect to these forums.
"Go to YouTube" as an answer is about as useful as "Google it." Disrespectful? Probably not, but not helpful at all, and is discouraged.
Yes, we have a YouTube channel. It's a tool to put useful, instructional videos in the threads on this forum. The forum software even lets you view them, without leaving this site. Our tagline is after all, The Ultimate Bass Fishing Resource Guide. We expect our membership to live up to that tagline. Membership contributions are what make this site what it is.
On 4/7/2017 at 2:05 AM, S. Sass said:Well Glenn you do have a YouTube channel (It's even in your signature each time you post) and some people do like to visually see what people are explaining.
I don't think, although I could be mistaken, that AnglingNvirginia meant any disrespect to these forums.
I dont trim my guards...i use to cut them at an angle but I feel like it doesnt make a difference.
Best thing I do is spread the guard. It softens it and protects the sides of the hook when rolling over a limb.
The football jig works the best for me with a 4in rage bug and dragging it along the bottom.
This is my go to jig for today at least, 90% of my bass fishing is for smallmouth so I like smaller jigs.
This is the keitch tungsten football jig.
Great info!! I also am new to jig fishing. I only have a med fast action rod, can I get away with using that? Please don't tell to buy a new rod, no money in the budget!
On 6/21/2017 at 8:00 AM, Buffdaddy54 said:Great info!! I also am new to jig fishing. I only have a med fast action rod, can I get away with using that? Please don't tell to buy a new rod, no money in the budget!
Definitely not preferred, but use what ya got! you'll be fine!
If you mean a medium power, fast action rod, you'd be fine with jigs up to about 1/2 oz. Would be great for 3/8 oz. jigs.
I'm brand new to jig fishing and this thread has helped me a lot. I caught two fish yesterday on a 3/8 oz green pumpkin back attack with a biffle bug for trailer. Here's the thing, I lost FIVE fish that I hooked up with. I felt like I got solid hook sets on them. The fish I lost all hit the bait very close in, like 8-10 feet. I was using a Dobyns 735 with 50 lb braid. I attributed maybe losing the fish to them hitting so close and the set up not having enough give in it to play them that close and ripping the hooks out of their mouths. I was crossing their eyes on the hookset. Does my theory on losing so many sound reasonable or am I doing something wrong. Should I drop down to MH for that setup?
id recommend a MH fast or XF for any jig over 1/4oz in any kind of cover. 1/4oz arkie jig with a small craw style trailer is a great bait to build confidence with. ive caught from a 3 inch bass to a 7 lb LMB bass on this type of jig.
What are y'all thoughts on jigs with EWG hooks? I picked up a few 3/4 oz jigs from a local tackle maker and it got me curious, I thought maybe for bigger trailers ?
I prefer them. Specifically Trokar 5/0 EWG.
On 7/4/2017 at 8:39 PM, roadwarrior said:I prefer them. Specifically Trokar 5/0 EWG.
Why do you prefer the EWG over a round bend hook ?
I used a bubble gum color senko as a trailer the other day and it worked good
Thinking of phasing out my jigs for all black in 3/8oz and 5/8oz. Does 5/8 have a significant increase in fall rate given that the trailer stays the same? I like 3/8oz overall but want something faster to draw reaction strikes and fish deeper cover (12 ft+ brush etc...)
I fish 3/8oz jigs exclusively, so take this with a grain of salt. But...
When I fish other things (texas/carolina rigs, drop shot, etc), I definitely notice the difference in fall rate when I go up 1/4oz. There's no reason to think you wouldn't similarly notice a real increase in fall rate with jig and trailer.
I would wonder why you wouldn't just go up to 3/4oz to be safe and give yourself that extra little bit of punch if you're ever trying to get through pads or other vegetation.
If im punching vegetation Im going to use tungsten and soft plastic. But 3/4 would get through some of the stuff I fish...but getting it back out may be difficult
Best way to understanding the jig fishing is to play around in ultra clear water such as pool or shallow dock. You'll see how much the trailers and skirting materials move with a little twitch.
Reason for stiff rod and low stretch line --- you need to 1. Turn the jig in the mouth 2. Pull the jig head out of locked jaws 3. Set the hook(the older the fish the more grissled the lip/jaw.
To understand how line stretch effects the hook set have your jig lift a bucket of 1/2 gallon of water over a rail while your back some 20 feet. Snug the line then pull the rod back until the bucket lifts. You'll be surprised to see how far you need to move the rod. Not all lines are the same.
Jigs are great year round. Only time I put a jig down is for topwater in early morning, or if I need really slow finesse fishing, which then I will go neko or wacky worm.
Good Luck!
So I fish a pond with some big big bass and no one fishes since no one can put in the time or effort to do so because there is a ton of hydrilla (not on top) but huge patches everywhere. When topwater isn't on or a good choice I always wanna just keep throwing jigs there and im fine at pitching to open holes, watching my line, and feeling what's what , but every retrieve I'm picking 2 pounds of stuff off.
Ive thrown so many different jig heads and line but I have to keep my braid pound 30 on in this stuff. Throwing 3/4 or an ounce is only worse also. I wanna be able to just keep hitting hole after hole without picking grass every cast.
Suggestions please?
Sorry best pic I have
I have a jig tied on 95% of the time. I throw on a trailer to add a little more bulk, or make it look closer to a crawfish. I ussaly just give it two little hops with the rod and when I hit something underwater I ussaly shake it, or give it a rip.
On 10/23/2017 at 2:53 PM, Tara-senko said:So I fish a pond with some big big bass and no one fishes since no one can put in the time or effort to do so because there is a ton of hydrilla (not on top) but huge patches everywhere. When topwater isn't on or a good choice I always wanna just keep throwing jigs there and im fine at pitching to open holes, watching my line, and feeling what's what , but every retrieve I'm picking 2 pounds of stuff off.
Ive thrown so many different jig heads and line but I have to keep my braid pound 30 on in this stuff. Throwing 3/4 or an ounce is only worse also. I wanna be able to just keep hitting hole after hole without picking grass every cast.
Suggestions please?
Sorry best pic I have
I'd try a fluke with a small weighted hook. Cast it out and then small jerks with your rod about waist level. You want to imitate a fish going through the vegetation. Should get bit and you won't be picking out tins of that stuff
It doesn't matter what's is on top of the water or above the water, what counts is what is below the surface.
30 lb braid is too small diameter for heavy 4/0 or 5/0 jig hooks. This is a job g thread but you would be better off using a weedless punch rig with streamline trailers like single tail grubs. I would use baitcasting reel, heavy jig rod and 60 lb braid, punch it through and shake it for a few minutes each cast.
Tom
On 8/8/2017 at 7:54 AM, Montanaro said:Thinking of phasing out my jigs for all black in 3/8oz and 5/8oz. Does 5/8 have a significant increase in fall rate given that the trailer stays the same? I like 3/8oz overall but want something faster to draw reaction strikes and fish deeper cover (12 ft+ brush etc...)
Everything else being equal, the 5/8 will fall substantially faster than a 3/8. Try it out.
On 9/12/2007 at 11:15 PM, jaskoh said:When is the proper time to use a jig? Year Round IMO
How do I work the lure? For me 75% of the time they hit it on the intitial fall. So make a good presentation and thats half the battle. If not let it settle to the bottom. Lift the Jig off the bottom and let it settle again. Some people swim these baits but I have very little experience in that.
Are trailers required? and What advantages do they add? I always use trailers. Different size ones in different situations but always use them. It makes the jig drop slower which keeps it in front of the Bass' nose for a longer period of time. Not to mention the movement of the trailer creats more vibrations in the water.
Could not have said it better
What’s everyone using for line? I’ve been using 40 lb braid and 15 lb flouro leader
On 2/1/2018 at 10:16 PM, bowhunter22 said:What’s everyone using for line? I’ve been using 40 lb braid and 15 lb flouro leader
For 3/8 to 3/4 ounce 50Lb braid to 17Lb copoly leader or straight 17Lb fluoro. 1 ounce or more 65Lb braid. 3/6 to 5/16 12Lb fluoro
This is all great info. My 2 cents worth will be short. If you fish a jig all day and catch the five fish that you felt bite it, then you missed the other fifty that bit without you knowing it.....
I am not very experienced with true technique on jig fishing, so I am aware of all of the eye rolls as you read the next few sentences but bear with me, I am just trying to gain some enlightenment. . . .
I am having trouble realizing how I would feel a bass hit a jig on the initial fall unless it just hammers it or runs with it. I am thinking that when you cast the line is usually slack when it hits the water and unless you are fishing deep, it would be on the bottom before I would have my line taught. So how do you feel the initial hit if the line is slack?
On 2/15/2018 at 3:58 AM, bobbyg said:So how do you feel the initial hit if the line is slack?
Sometimes you feel it. Sometimes you don't, but the line does something weird. Sometimes you don't,but it stopped sinking before it got to bottom. Feel, concentrate, and count your bait down. Once it's down there, imagine everything the bait is doing and running into. Anything that doesn't add up, it's probably a fish.
So I decided I wanted to learn to fish jigs and went out and bought a couple football jigs 1/2 oz. on my first cast I got snagged and lost the lure. I have no clue how. I was fishing on solid rock dragging bottom and it went snug so I tried shaking it loose a little and then walked almost 180 degrees around it to the other side and nothing would get it loose. Tried another jig and a few casts later same thing different spot. My understanding was football jigs were made for fishing on rock and were supposed to be very hard to get snagged. Is there something I may have done wrong or any other ideas?
On 3/12/2018 at 9:50 AM, Cak920 said:So I decided I wanted to learn to fish jigs and went out and bought a couple football jigs 1/2 oz. on my first cast I got snagged and lost the lure. I have no clue how. I was fishing on solid rock dragging bottom and it went snug so I tried shaking it loose a little and then walked almost 180 degrees around it to the other side and nothing would get it loose. Tried another jig and a few casts later same thing different spot. My understanding was football jigs were made for fishing on rock and were supposed to be very hard to get snagged. Is there something I may have done wrong or any other ideas?
While the football jig is probably the biggest go-to for harder bottom and rock, it all depends on the size of rock. If it was small loose rock, then I am not sure what was happening as that is what I would have used as well. But if it was large chunk rock, concrete, etc.., then no jig head style would have helped if you got it wedged down in between chunk rock good.
All I can say is don't give up. You may be 0-2 at the moment but so were the Yankees in the 1996 World Series - in which they came back to win it all.
On 3/12/2018 at 11:44 AM, Fish the Mitt said:While the football jig is probably the biggest go-to for harder bottom and rock, it all depends on the size of rock. If it was small loose rock, then I am not sure what was happening as that is what I would have used as well. But if it was large chunk rock, concrete, etc.., then no jig head style would have helped if you got it wedged down in between chunk rock good.
All I can say is don't give up. You may be 0-2 at the moment but so were the Yankees in the 1996 World Series - in which they came back to win it all.
Agree with this. Do not give up.
Jig fishing takes a little more patience than some other techniques. But it's also the most rewarding when you catch that hawg. I catch most of my big summer bass on jigs with a Paca Craw trailer.
I first tried jig fishing last year. I was skeptical but my buddy convinced me to keep trying. I learned to feel the bottom and maintain contact with the jig. Differentiating some bites from the bottom can be difficult at times. Other times they just smack it hard. He also taught me that if you miss a strike let the jig sit where it is and they will come back for it. After a season of practice I feel I have it down pretty good but I still have a lot to learn. Everyone should learn to fish jigs. It’s a game changer.
Just getting into jig fishing. To get a better sense of the line and what is going on down there is a good idea to hold the line in between your thumb and forefinger?
On 3/12/2018 at 9:50 AM, Cak920 said:So I decided I wanted to learn to fish jigs and went out and bought a couple football jigs 1/2 oz. on my first cast I got snagged and lost the lure. I have no clue how. I was fishing on solid rock dragging bottom and it went snug so I tried shaking it loose a little and then walked almost 180 degrees around it to the other side and nothing would get it loose. Tried another jig and a few casts later same thing different spot. My understanding was football jigs were made for fishing on rock and were supposed to be very hard to get snagged. Is there something I may have done wrong or any other ideas?
Use lighter weight jig 3/8 oz in lieu of 1/2 oz, and use wider body soft plastic trailer like a beaver and mono/Copoly or braid line that doesn't sink. Trying to work any jig uphill through rocks is difficult because the line can sink between rock crevices and you pull the jig into the crevice. Try to locate areas with rock and clay areas instead of broken rock like rip rap.
Tom
On 3/24/2018 at 3:38 AM, Tracker22 said:He also taught me that if you miss a strike let the jig sit where it is and they will come back for it.
And if they don't...lightly shake it and then wait some more.
Here’s another tip for getting jigs loose from rocks. Reel down just enough to bend the rod tip a little, then knock the rod handle with your free hand. Like your knocking on a door. It may take a couple of attempts but it works 80% of the time.
Does anyone have tips on what to do specifically with your rod and reel while fishing jigs? This is my biggest problem, I always feel like I'm not working it right and it's hurting my confidence. How should you move your rod? When do you reel in slack line and when do you let it sit? And anything else?
On 5/14/2018 at 3:07 AM, JFlynn97 said:Does anyone have tips on what to do specifically with your rod and reel while fishing jigs? This is my biggest problem, I always feel like I'm not working it right and it's hurting my confidence. How should you move your rod? When do you reel in slack line and when do you let it sit? And anything else?
There isn't a wrong way to work a jig. But my most used technique is when fishing a flipping jig or casting jig and using the "6 inch hop 6 inch hop, reel in slack line, pause, repeat" method. But I've found success swimming, dragging, ripping, and dead sticking jigs just to name a few.
On 5/14/2018 at 3:07 AM, JFlynn97 said:Does anyone have tips on what to do specifically with your rod and reel while fishing jigs? This is my biggest problem, I always feel like I'm not working it right and it's hurting my confidence. How should you move your rod? When do you reel in slack line and when do you let it sit? And anything else?
Way back in the mid 90's I wrote a article for In-Fisherman and reference it several times in this long thread called Horizontal Jigging. Verticle jig presentations is what 80% of bass anglers tend to do; make short casts less then 30' and let the jig fall vertical into cover by flipping, pitching or punching. Horizontal jigging is casting the jig anywhere from 60' to 150' a long cast.
How are you fishing your jigs?
Tom
On 5/14/2018 at 3:46 AM, WRB said:Way back in the mid 90's I wrote a article for In-Fisherman and reference it several times in this long thread called Horizontal Jigging. Verticle jig presentations is what 80% of bass anglers tend to do; make short casts less then 30' and let the jig fall vertical into cover by flipping, pitching or punching. Horizontal jigging is casting the jig anywhere from 60' to 150' a long cast.
How are you fishing your jigs?
Tom
I only fish from the bank, so it's mostly long casts trying to cover water though I'll occasionally flip and pitch into docks and cover that I'm able to access from the bank.
On 5/14/2018 at 3:38 AM, CroakHunter said:There isn't a wrong way to work a jig. But my most used technique is when fishing a flipping jig or casting jig and using the "6 inch hop 6 inch hop, reel in slack line, pause, repeat" method. But I've found success swimming, dragging, ripping, and dead sticking jigs just to name a few.
Thanks! How much do you move the tip of your rod for this retrieve? And when you reel in slack line, do you do it until you feel the weight of your jig or do you still leave out a little bit of slack in the water?
I'll have to try those other retrieves too. I've tried dragging a couple times but it often ends up with my jig getting snagged and I can't get it out. Is swimming a jig similar to how you'd work a spinner bait or chatter bait?
Jig fishing from the bank indicates you are working uphill or paralell side hill, not down hill unless you manage to find a long point you can cast to from the bank.
Working a jig up hill means it's always on the bottom very difficult to hop it, side hill you can hope it and downhill it's easy to lift it off or retreive it off the bottom casting horizontally.
I am not a fan of working jigs up hill, if I do will use a lighter weight jig, 3/8 in lieu of 1/2 oz for example. Jig fishing from a boat gives you every angle to work from, bank anglers are limited.
A longer rod helps in your situation, you can hold the tip high to help keep the line off the bottom and try to lift the jig off the bottom.
In your case I would hold the rod tip at 1 o'clock or nearly upright and moving it down to about 2 o'clock, lift and turn the reel handle 1 turn and pause while running the line over your index finger to feel the jig weight or any changes to the weight or resistance that indicates a snag or strike, snakes don't move! After pausing shake the rod tip several times and lift the rod tip and make another reel turn pause and repeat the shaking, rod tip lift and reeling. When you feel the line move on it's own or taps or anything alive, lower the rod tip to 3 o'clock reel and set the hook.
maintaining controlled slack is the key to strike detection, slack line all you can hope to do is see line movement.
Tom
I just read every post in this thread taking notes... in ONE LONG SITTING! LOL! THANK YOU!
Been fishing since I was 6 (now 64, but mostly salt water). Just got serious about bass and chose to focus on plastics (Texas, NED, Drop Shot and Carolina). Been doing fairly well. I'm ready to order and start fishing jigs. Because I've been focusing on the bottom, I thought I'd stay there for a while (Yes? No?) I created a smaller tackle box (I have five), just for bottom plastics using the rigs I mentioned above.
The question I have is: The reservoir I fish, I've never seen traces of crawdads and the bass I catch have share teeth with no red lips (Chasing after bait fish?) Most caught on a Texas and NED rig... Most of the trailers I see people using here are "Craw" style. If there aren't any crayfish in my lake, does it matter?
I'm located in Oregon.
Thank you!
Richard
On 5/29/2018 at 7:32 AM, RichardJarel said:I just read every post in this thread taking notes... in ONE LONG SITTING! LOL! THANK YOU!
Been fishing since I was 6 (now 64, but mostly salt water). Just got serious about bass and chose to focus on plastics (Texas, NED, Drop Shot and Carolina). Been doing fairly well. I'm ready to order and start fishing jigs. Because I've been focusing on the bottom, I thought I'd stay there for a while (Yes? No?) I created a smaller tackle box (I have five), just for bottom plastics using the rigs I mentioned above.
The question I have is: The reservoir I fish, I've never seen traces of crawdads and the bass I catch have share teeth with no red lips (Chasing after bait fish?) Most caught on a Texas and NED rig... Most of the trailers I see people using here are "Craw" style. If there aren't any crayfish in my lake, does it matter?
I'm located in Oregon.
Thank you!
Richard
Hey Richard,
WOW! That’s ALOT of reading! lol. But there’s a lot of great tips and techniques throughout this thread for sure.
To answer your question, even though you may not see them, doesn’t mean they aren’t there. Crawdads are native to my home state of Delaware, and I’ve never seen one with my own eyes, but I’m sure they’re around. But even if they are or not, I’ve caught 90% of the bass on a crawdad trailer. The claws help slow down the fall rate, and when the jig is on the bottom it makes the craw look in a defensive position. I personally believe a jig (except a swimjig) is most effective with a crawdad trailer for sure!
I’d personally recommend a pack of Strike King Rage Craws and Netbait Paca Craws. Can never go wrong with black and blue flake!
Thanks for the input regarding craw-fish! In my reading (yes, I read a LOT! LOL! ...Kind of obsessed? LOL! In the YouTube category, it's now hard to find any that I haven't seen LOL! I still watch some of them I saved to review for details. LOL!) I read (note, I NEVER take one post as the fact... I look for patterns of posts having the same answer.), I read that even if the bait isn't matched to the hatch, it just has to look a live and if the bait is different, the bass's curiosity is heightened. I actually already bought a few craw baits (including the strike king rage bug), and I'm looking to try them out. (I've never tried anything black, so I'll add the black and blue (I've read a lot of people preferring that color combo), to my shopping list for today's bait monkey indulgence (I'm actually pretty frugal though). Going to add one more Lews spinning combo to my arsenal so I'll have three of the same rigs strung up with different methods. I decided to hold off on the new casting combo until winter so I can practice casting with dummy weights at the local park (1/2 block down the street), over the winter. I have a a couple of older bait casting rigs (short rods), that I'll bring onto the boat once it's running.
Just completed figuring out how to create my next toy prototype project, so my confidence level on that is up and I'm ready to start. To "celebrate", I'm going fishing tomorrow! (It's supposed to be cloudy with a little wind and the lake should be fairly empty! =D
If I can find this info someplace else please feel free to let me know, but I've tried to google and look through some posts already for this. What I would like to know is some of the key differences between the types of jigs Siebert has.
Example in the Brush Jig Section:
extreme mata
grid iron mata
dredge mata
flukemaster mata
flukemaster brush
extreme brush
grid iron brush
enraged series
dredge brush
This is the different ones in the brush series. I had been using D&L Tackle Advantage Jigs, mainly oops and the craw colors and came upon someone who suggested Siebert Outdoors for some quality jigs. I have not ordered any yet, but do plan on it, but was trying to find out the different types of jigs and their applications.
Thanks,
Kevin
Edited by kshaysHello Kevin
Here is the break down of the differences in the Brush heads. The different series are based on a different hook. The actual head on my Brush jigs are the same excluding the Dredge. The dredge 1/2 has a 1/8 weedguard and the others are 5/32. When you jump into the Mata jigs I take a jig and add living rubber to the silicone jig giving it more bulk and profile.
extreme mata has living rubber added
grid iron mata has living rubber added
dredge mata has living rubber added
flukemaster Pro has heavy living rubber added
flukemaster brush Same as a Grid Iron Brush head but in Flukemaster colors
extreme brush Made with a Trokar Hook
grid iron brush Made with an Owner XXX strong hook
enraged series Gamakatsu hook Enraged Brand. Not my design.
dredge brush Made with an Owner Deep Throat Hook and
Supreme Brush made with a Mustad Ultra Point Hook
On 6/23/2018 at 4:48 AM, Siebert Outdoors said:Hello Kevin
Here is the break down of the differences in the Brush heads. The different series are based on a different hook. The actual head on my Brush jigs are the same excluding the Dredge. The dredge 1/2 has a 1/8 weedguard and the others are 5/32. When you jump into the Mata jigs I take a jig and add living rubber to the silicone jig giving it more bulk and profile.
extreme mata has heavy living rubber added
grid iron mata has heavy living rubber added
dredge mata has heavy living rubber added
flukemaster Pro has heavy living rubber added
flukemaster brush Same as a Grid Iron Brush head but in Flukemaster colors
extreme brush Made with a Trokar Hook
grid iron brush Made with an Owner XXX strong hook
enraged series Gamakatsu hook Enraged Brand. Not my design.
dredge brush Made with an Owner Deep Throat Hook and
Supreme Brush made with a Mustad Ultra Point Hook
Thanks so much! That will help a lot and there are some really great looking colors I noticed. Exactly what I was looking for, much appreciated.
Kevin
Wow, this thread is awesome!!! I am also brand new to using the jig. What, if any, is the ideal rod/reel for jig fishing. Also what is the ideal line to use?
On 6/28/2018 at 4:11 AM, doughboy1979 said:Wow, this thread is awesome!!! I am also brand new to using the jig. What, if any, is the ideal rod/reel for jig fishing. Also what is the ideal line to use?
I am far from a professional, but from what I've experienced and what I've read, people generally go with a higher speed reel (7.1:1 or higher), that way you can pull the fish out of cover quickly, flip and pitch more efficiently, and generally get the fish to the boat/bank as fast as possible. As for rods, personally I prefer a heavy over a medium-heavy, as the extra backbone really helps to get the hook penetrated. Go with at least a 7', maybe up to 7'6" if you're fishing super heavy structure. My all-around jig rod is a 7'3" heavy/fast paired with an 8.1:1 reel.
For line you can't really go wrong with braid or fluorocarbon. Braid doesn't stretch and has great sensitivity; fluorocarbon doesn't have much stretch, has abrasion resistance if you're fishing a rocky or woody area, and it sinks which can help maintain contact with your jig. Just don't use monofilament because it'll stretch too much when you try to set the hook. I use 30lb powerpro braid for almost all of my jig fishing because I've had great experiences with it: unmatched strength, strong enough to work through vegetation and I've never had problems with frayed line after fishing rocks, laydowns, or any other kind of structure. PLUS I love the sensitivity that braid offers. If I'm fishing very clear water I'll tie on a 12-15lb fluorocarbon leader, but honestly that doesn't happen very often in my area.
Good luck!
I’m a jig man! I throw jigs year round. I normally toss Chompers football head jigs with a zoom swimmin chunk or a netbait paca chunk trailer.
What a great thread, I've fished jigs some but can't wait to try some of the info I've gathered here.
On 2/15/2018 at 4:06 AM, J Francho said:Sometimes you feel it. Sometimes you don't, but the line does something weird. Sometimes you don't,but it stopped sinking before it got to bottom. Feel, concentrate, and count your bait down. Once it's down there, imagine everything the bait is doing and running into. Anything that doesn't add up, it's probably a fish.
Reminds me of a time my brother and I were casting jigs in deep structure. No sooner had my jig went in when my line took off across the surface and all I did was stand there with my mouth open watching it. It was my brother yelling, "Swing, swing...!" that finally brought me back to Earth. Yes, it was weird.
Good thread.
Jigs are great during the middle
of the day when it’s really hot and the bass are hanging out under heavy cover. Just flip a jig in heavy cover and twitch twitch boom! Make sure the trailer matches the jig color. IMO
This is a great thread with a ton of good info. I’ve been fishing for 30 years but this year I have really just come to appreciate how effective a jig can be. It’s a Lure I never used to use because I had no confidence in it. The lakes where I live can be tough, like 1-2 keepers and 3-4 pounds wins a 25 boat tournament tough, so it was hard to throw anything different to learn and gain confidence in it. I took my yearly trip to Guntersville with my dad this May and after the morning bite would die I would make myself throw a jig. Man did it ever make me a believer. The jig got so many bites and caught so many quality fish that I have had one tied on every day that I have gone
out since then. I learned how to use it and the jig had gone from a Lure that I wouldn’t throw to one of my confidence baits.
what is the head shape on a bitsy bug jig considered? For whatever reason these are the only jigs I can fish without hanging up in the ponds I throw them at. I’d like more variety and sizes of jigs, but am not totally sure what this head shape is called? Finesse flipping jig maybe? I tried ballhead jigs and it was terrible, same with footballs, so those are out of the question.
On 9/15/2018 at 10:05 AM, Mike F said:what is the head shape on a bitsy bug jig considered? For whatever reason these are the only jigs I can fish without hanging up in the ponds I throw them at. I’d like more variety and sizes of jigs, but am not totally sure what this head shape is called? Finesse flipping jig maybe? I tried ballhead jigs and it was terrible, same with footballs, so those are out of the question.
Finesse jig. Siebert Outdoors calls it a Sniper jig.
Tom
Good, I just ordered some of those actually! The nomenclature for jigs is confusing for a beginner because a lot of times a finesse jig is a ball head jig with a finesse cut and other times it’s something else entirely. I really like that grass/brush style head on the bitsy bugs. In your experience is it beneficial to have the line tie parallel with the hook? I feel like it is, but have not been fishing jigs long enough to form a solid opinion.
Becoming a grownup, there can start to be fewer and fewer mysteries to think about, including ironically, sasquatch and things like this. The more experts I have been exposed to, the more certain I have become that there's not one...or any! That was a huge bummer for me. Another mystery, destroyed!
But this jig fishing topic is something to bring back some mystery. Although a lot if this can't be proven other than anecdotally (video is proof, yes. I'm referring to the idea that maybe you missed something that you didn't know you missed and the only way to know SOMEtimes is to set the hook...whether you actually feel anything or not!) this seems to be a rabbit hole that seems worth going down!
For right now, I'm casting jigs, long casts from the bank. "Swim jigs", grass jigs and arky jigs. My football heads and standups have been in their box for a long time because on MOST places I fish, they're less than ideal. I'm using 50lb braid. I'm catching fish. I know for sure that there are parts of the cast where I may not be feeling the other end because I'm doing something that isn't ideal, making these very long casts. This isn't my go-to set up but it's what I'm doing now because of the season change, trying to reach water I can't walk to access and because its a skill I am trying to improve. I have so many places I can fish that I can't even count but one particular spot, an old quarry lake, is where I'm doing this. I usually don't do this on the lakes or rivers but this quarry seems like a no-brainer and it's been working well.
I'm mostly dragging an arky jig. Very slow. What other recommendations would you make or change about this setup, given what I'm trying to do? What about trying to drag a jig from the bank, uphill? Does everyone agree that a worm (specifically a big worm?), worked similarly, would be better?
Thanks!
On 11/9/2013 at 5:12 AM, WRB said:If the bass is a largemouth they tend to engulf the jig fully into their mouth and crunch it between the tongue and top of the mouth. Look into a basses mouth and in the back on the top of the mouth are a set of crunchers used to kill prey. Largemouth use their lips to prevent prey from escaping, not usually to bite with. The tap you feel is the jig hitting the back of the bass mouth, the second tap is often the jig being spit out.
You can't set too fast on largemouth bass. Smallmouth and spots often grab a crawdad by it's claws and shake it, before taking it info the mouth, so a hesitation works OK. More than likely the bass swam directly at you and simply spit the jig without being hook well.
Better hook set will help.
Tom
Exactly what you need to understand for the timing in bites you actually feel. After a couple of fish where I felt that and set it after the second, I had some not hooked well and about as many missed. They were gone. I thought about how they eat for just a minute and decided to set fast on the first feel and the hookups were better and fish not lost.
I wanted to confirm this so I asked specifically the other day. Seems this time of year is slow for comments! Luckily, I found this old thread, read every comment on it, 8 pages worth so far, and found exactly the answer I was looking for!
On 8/10/2018 at 5:16 AM, Harold Scoggins said:Reminds me of a time my brother and I were casting jigs in deep structure. No sooner had my jig went in when my line took off across the surface and all I did was stand there with my mouth open watching it. It was my brother yelling, "Swing, swing...!" that finally brought me back to Earth. Yes, it was weird.
Good thread.
This happens to me quite a bit. The biggest bass I've caught on a jig sucked it in before it hit bottom. It wasn't moving but it didn't feel right so I set the hook and it took off into overhanging brush. I had to reel up to it because ti was deep in the brush. I got close then it took off to deeper water, breaking all the limbs. Thank goodness for 30# braid.
On 12/15/2016 at 1:26 AM, Glenn said:19 pages loaded with information, and you want to tell somebody to go somewhere else "for the most help"? Seriously?
YouTube has been helpful also but supplemental to this thread. I have watched videos or even experienced certain things fishing and not fully understood them, or they didn't stand out, and after a thread like this The light bulb comes on. It can work in reverse but from what I've seen, if you don't understand or haven't heard the things about jigs before, and watch a video, because of the format most of the importance of the detail will be lost on you if you even realize it was anything other than just some words.
But yeah, fish, read, watch, read...watch again if you want. Keep fishing.
On 2/15/2018 at 3:42 AM, Lottabass said:This is all great info. My 2 cents worth will be short. If you fish a jig all day and catch the five fish that you felt bite it, then you missed the other fifty that bit without you knowing it.....
Dah! Stop saying that! Ha, ha, that enough people say it isn't what's compelling about solving something like this, it's the believable experiences of people with decades of experience and visual proof and logical reasons related to bass behavior.
I don't know about anybody else but I fish from the bank and don't use any kind of electronics. To me, putting all of the pieces of the puzzle together and catching the fish that are supposed to be in a specific spot, with a specific technique, in specific conditions is the best part of fishing for me, any more. Jigs do get bigger bites, you can use them any where, any time and you will never have it mastered. There's still a challenge with a big payoff to it.
All that said, I've been beating up all my @Siebert Outdoors jigs and jig heads this fall and catching good numbers of good fish. Their colors are great, the hooks stick 'em and I never feel like I'm wondering if I will have a good hook up.
Yes, I've read all 22 pages of this post, the cited posts in this one and every page of the other years-long threads on this subject. Mostly because of the "what if?" I guess I've been turned into a little kid a week before Christmas thinking about throwing some jigs around. You can catch a few fish if you read a few pages but you're missing out if you stop there.
I've gotten pretty decent at catching fish nearly any where I decide to go but I have to say, that since I've really decided to throw only jigs, the size of my average fish have gone up considerably. And for ME, this fall, I haven't gotten fewer bites that were bigger, I've actually gotten more.
What i would do is in the winter i would let it hit the bottom and reel it slowly like let it drag on the bottom if u see my point and when the water starts to warm up u just let it hit the bottom use it like a rubber worm. You will catch some hogs like that
I really want to get more into jig fishing this year, so I'm looking to buy some that I can use nearly year round in most conditions just to gain some confidence and make all of the jig head and trailer options a little less complex. I'm thinking of using 3/8 oz Arky jigs with Rage Craw trailers, do you guys think that should fit my needs?
Yes
On 1/22/2019 at 11:50 PM, JFlynn97 said:I really want to get more into jig fishing this year, so I'm looking to buy some that I can use nearly year round in most conditions just to gain some confidence and make all of the jig head and trailer options a little less complex. I'm thinking of using 3/8 oz Arky jigs with Rage Craw trailers, do you guys think that should fit my needs?
Absolutely. My favorite jigs.
I guess if I read these all again I would, for sure, see something that would click that didn't last year.
Can anybody try and get more specific on the different ways that they like to affect what the jig does, or what they're presenting, other than only reduce/increase this or that? There are things that I have figured out that I could try to go into detail on to explain or I could just say use a smaller jig or, slow down, or use a different trailer. There are people who definitely know more than I do who might be able to explain some of the details in how they like to do these things.
The more I use them and get familiar with all that could be done with them, the more I realize that there still is to the subject. Maybe there are some critical details a few might be willing to share in regards to these things?
I always have a jig tied on from pre spawn to ice. I love throwing the jig for my kicker fish, to add some size to my day. Not that i haven't caught 1-2lb fish on a jig, because I absolutely have, but more often than not a fish willing to commit to the jig will be decent size. Theoretically, you use to jig to imitate crawdads, but you can also pair it up with a Paddletail and swim it, or pair it up with a beaver or creature style trailer to imitate just about everything.
I found there is a very key detail to jig fishing that i don't hear many talking about, and will help you decide when to use a craw style trailer vs. anything else. Start following the moon cycle and know what phase the moon is in before you go fishing. Crawdads tend to become more active during the fuller moon phases where they can see and look for food at night. If you are trying to start jig fishing, or are just trying to get more bites, this is a more productive time to do it, though they'll work any time.
There are tons of shapes and styles of jig heads, but if I had to pick one or two for a beginner it would be the casting jig, or the pitching jig (even if you don't plan on pitching). In my experience these to styles of jig have the most versatility in terms of coming through cover without getting stuck. Also, the finesse jig is a good place to start for beginners because it builds confidence. Typically, when you fish a jig as opposed to a t-rig, you downsize the amount of fish you catch in hopes of upsizing your catch size. But a finesse jig is a happy medium and lighter wire hooks will make for an easier hook set than jacking it with a 5/0 gamakatsu.
Colors are simple for me, black blue, watermelon, green pumpkin. That being said I fish a black and blue jig 90% of the time I am jig fishing, but I fish a lot of stained areas. For trailers, don't stress about it too much, it's much less important than say your presentation or your placement, but get a couple with a few appendages and a more aggressive action like the Rage Craw, and a few with a dead action like the Zoom super chunk. As a rule of thumb when you believe the bass are relying more on sight than on feel you should fish a dead action trailer, and when the water is murky and you need them to feel your jig in the water pick something with a lot of action.
For me, jigs really shine when they are targeted casts as opposed to being used as a search bait. take some time to learn how to pitch and flip and you will see a significant increase in bites. The vase majority of my biggest bass have been hauled in on a big ole jig and i guaruntee if you start chucking it around you'll stick your PB.
Oh and I highly recommend dirty jigs, ALL of my jigging techniques. Thanks to Matt Allen from tactical bassing I converted over to them a couple year's back and they are DIRTY. Tungsten jig heads, Gamakatsu hooks, 3 layer skirt paint job and they paint the jig head to match it. I fish them EXCLUSIVELY now and refuse to tie on another jig.But that being said I got my start with the 2 dollar eagle claw jigs from walmart and I still stuck 4's and 5's on them so it doesn't super matter.
tight lines
On 4/21/2019 at 10:52 AM, Fishingintheweeds said:I guess if I read these all again I would, for sure, see something that would click that didn't last year.
Can anybody try and get more specific on the different ways that they like to affect what the jig does, or what they're presenting, other than only reduce/increase this or that? There are things that I have figured out that I could try to go into detail on to explain or I could just say use a smaller jig or, slow down, or use a different trailer. There are people who definitely know more than I do who might be able to explain some of the details in how they like to do these things.
The more I use them and get familiar with all that could be done with them, the more I realize that there still is to the subject. Maybe there are some critical details a few might be willing to share in regards to these things?
So, a lot like most other parts of bass fishing, don't overthink it. Stick a trailer on and forget about it. Like I said in my other reply, use trailers with more action when you think fish are relying on their lateral line (feeling vibration) and dead action trailers when they are using sight. But that being said I've caught fish doing the exact opposite.
What you should put a majority of your focus into is how you are presenting your jig, not what it looks like. People Typically use these retrieves
Try out a bunch of things to really work through an area and see what the bass are doing and what they are looking for and adjust accordingly from their. Remember, whether throwing you jigs on a spinnning set up or baitcasting, always keep a finger on the line to feel not only for subtle bites (like the bigger bass will do, one *gulp* as opposed to a *tap tap* on your line) but also to feel the structure on the bottom. Jigs are incredible for just getting a better idea of what's down there and what the fish might be doing.
Keep at it and don't get frustrated. You will catch less fish typically on a jig than on a texas rig so just be prepared for that. If you are really struggling downsize your profile. Take an inch off the back of your trailer (i always trim mine so the claws or appendages begin where the skirt ends) or even pick up a finesse jig until you get more comfortable with he feeling of jigs.
Tight lines
On 2/15/2018 at 3:58 AM, bobbyg said:I am having trouble realizing how I would feel a bass hit a jig on the initial fall unless it just hammers it or runs with it. I am thinking that when you cast the line is usually slack when it hits the water and unless you are fishing deep, it would be on the bottom before I would have my line taught. So how do you feel the initial hit if the line is slack?
It's very helpful to use yellow braid and watch watch watch your line as soon as your jig hits the water.
Lots of jig bites on the fall can't really be felt (other than it feeling weird, instead of a thump) but you can see the line move......set the hook!
Rule #1 when fishing a jig: Don't be afraid to get stuck
When i first started jig fishing it was boring to me mainly because it was slow and didn't get as many bites as I would on a trick worm or lizard texas rigged but I knew it was going to get me bigger fish. So I started swimming a jig to build a little more confidence in a jig fishing. I knew I could cover more water and it would help me get more bites this way. I bought a few Dirty Jigs swim jigs and put on a Paca Craw. Tons of action. I would get bit swimming the jig past structure, log, brush pile etc and if I didn't land the fish that hit I would simply just flip it into where i got bit and just tease it till it bit. This helped me build confidence. A jig is something you don't master over night. I think people try to fish them too slow. Flip that thing up by the bank and let it hit the bottom and sit for maybe three seconds and then start hopping it through where looks to be the place you would most likely get bit once your past it swim it back to the boat and hold on, you will often get bit like this. You need to go out one day with nothing but a jig and just make yourself fish it and tinker with it until you get a bite.
Retrospect,
Thinking back on my bass fishing the one lure that I can't remember ever being out fished using by a partner or in a tournament is the jig.
My record speaks for itself regarding giant bass over 15 lbs so I ask myself why? Why jigs?
I love to bass fish and use everything so why jigs?
I don't know. It could be when I tie a jig on my line my focus changes all my concentration narrows down to what the jig is doing every moment. Worms and other lures I know the bass will hold onto or strike harder then a jig so my concentration tends to wonder looking around instead of focusing every moment. Jig fishing for me is total concentration and demanding, no talking all business.
I check and feel my line every cast and check the jig for any debris or hook point sharpness every cast.
Jig strikes are the most difficult to detect requiring total consentration and that I believe is the difference between all other lures.
Tom
Jigs can be fished at any time during the year, and they catch big bass. Many people catch their PB in early spring on a Jig. Traditional flipping-style jigs work great around brush, while football head jigs will be superior around rock and offshore humps. These style jigs are mainly dragged slowly on the bottom to imitate a crawfish. There are also swim jigs and vibrating jigs which are made to be steadily retrieved and fished horizontally to imitate baitfish/sunfish. In my opinion, a trailer is an absolute must!
Trying to get into jig fishing and have a question about the presentation of it. Do you pretty much always need to fish it to/into structure and such? Just short flips or somewhat vertical targets? Or can you be out on a flat, fan cast around but obviously a much slower presentation? Or is is specifically a deal associated with cover? Can you jig fish from the bank or much more a boat application?
On 6/9/2019 at 9:50 AM, pauldconyers said:Trying to get into jig fishing and have a question about the presentation of it. Do you pretty much always need to fish it to/into structure and such? Just short flips or somewhat vertical targets? Or can you be out on a flat, fan cast around but obviously a much slower presentation? Or is is specifically a deal associated with cover? Can you jig fish from the bank or much more a boat application?
And here lies your answer.
A-Jay
I have also been relatively new to jig fishing but i have had some recent success so now i have a dedicated jig rig. I really like Northstar baits swim jig, criss craw color with a matching craw trailer. I can navigate the swim head thru grass or muck and it doesnt get hooked up too often. 3/8 oz seems to be fine in just about any water i fish. I use blue/black for night or stained water. I also like Sieberts arky head 1/2 oz ive used these in deeper water with some success as well
I am pretty much new to fishing this season also and personally I have never once caught a fish with a jig. I don’t understand. Even when they are hitting other things I still can’t win with them. What’s the advantage of using one with a craw, why not just use a craw instead of adding a big unnatural bushy thing to the top of it lol. They obviously work but I sure can’t use them for some reason.
On 10/8/2019 at 6:16 PM, Chris244 said:I am pretty much new to fishing this season also and personally I have never once caught a fish with a jig. I don’t understand. Even when they are hitting other things I still can’t win with them. What’s the advantage of using one with a craw, why not just use a craw instead of adding a big unnatural bushy thing to the top of it lol. They obviously work but I sure can’t use them for some reason.
I know there's a LOT of stuff in here, but have you read through this thread?
Agreed, the answers to your questions are in this thread. Just spending an hour or so reading, and you will have so much more knowledge.
Well I went to a couple ponds today and caught 4 on a bitsy bug jig with a rage tail craw. Just drug the bottom and paused and a couple twitches. Only thing I noticed was in a pond that had a lot of grass/weeds it was a big clump every cast so I’m not quite getting how they work good in grass. Maybe I did something wrong but the jig head just collected mass amounts u till I went to a better pond.
You need to factor in the seasonal period when bass fishing any lure. We are in or transitioning from fall to winter cold water period. This means bass are going to be in the warmest water they can find and the aquatic vegetation is dieing off, turning brown.
The bass are cold blooded fish that need less food as they get colder.
Location is always key and a predominate prey source should be determining your choice of lures including jigs.
Catching 4 jig bass is a good day. If you want less weeds fouling your jig use a lighter weight grass jig in the deepest areas of your pond.
Tom
On 12/2/2012 at 2:06 PM, WRB said:The biggest mistake most jig anglers make is waiting until the jigs hits bottom to begin "fishing" the jig.
Tom
Just spending a little time revisiting old threads (this being one of my favorites) because you never know when something someone has posted will "pop" out at you. The above sentence is found at the end of a reply posted by @WRB 7 years back, and as I re-read it, it seemed as though I was being slapped on the back of the head. I was taught this some 30 years back by a local hometown fishing legend. We were both throwing jigs from his boat and after a couple hours and a few fish, all landed by him, I asked him what I was doing wrong. The old timer smiled at me and said, "You're not fishing a jig, son." He then went on and asked me if I had ever observed a crawfish falling through the water. I hadn't noticed that while I was letting my jig fall straight down to the bottom, he was occasionally making small jerks as his jig fell. I've caught my fair share of bass off the bottom with a jig, but after that "fishing" lesson many years ago, many more bass have been landed on the way down. If you happen to stumble onto this reply, make sure you revisit the older posts/replies. You never know what you might find that was missed on an earlier read. Thanks for the memories, WRB.
On 12/8/2019 at 5:44 AM, Harold Scoggins said:Just spending a little time revisiting old threads (this being one of my favorites) because you never know when something someone has posted will "pop" out at you. The above sentence is found at the end of a reply posted by @WRB 7 years back, and as I re-read it, it seemed as though I was being slapped on the back of the head. I was taught this some 30 years back by a local hometown fishing legend. We were both throwing jigs from his boat and after a couple hours and a few fish, all landed by him, I asked him what I was doing wrong. The old timer smiled at me and said, "You're not fishing a jig, son." He then went on and asked me if I had ever observed a crawfish falling through the water. I hadn't noticed that while I was letting my jig fall straight down to the bottom, he was occasionally making small jerks as his jig fell. I've caught my fair share of bass off the bottom with a jig, but after that "fishing" lesson many years ago, many more bass have been landed on the way down. If you happen to stumble onto this reply, make sure you revisit the older posts/replies. You never know what you might find that was missed on an earlier read. Thanks for the memories, WRB.
You talking about constant little jerks or a pop every 4 or 5 seconds?
On 12/8/2019 at 6:45 AM, pauldconyers said:You talking about constant little jerks or a pop every 4 or 5 seconds?
Could be. Could be 1 or 2 on the way down. Change it up and let the bass tell you what they want.
On 12/8/2019 at 7:35 AM, Harold Scoggins said:Change it up and let the bass tell you what they want.
Most important thing in this whole thread, because it ties all the other points together.
Sometimes they don't even want a pop at all. Last jig bass I caught, I was just about deadsticking on the bottom – just rattling the tip every little while.
So two of the response in this thread have been videos. Both by pros. And they couldn’t be more opposite on how they teach to set the hook with a jig. One says that when you feel the bite, reel up the slack and then set the hook, and the other says to drop the tip of the rod and then use that slack to gain speed in setting the hook. So slack or no slack when setting the hook? What do you do?
On 12/8/2019 at 10:57 PM, clemsondds said:So two of the response in this thread have been videos. Both by pros. And they couldn’t be more opposite on how they teach to set the hook with a jig. One says that when you feel the bite, reel up the slack and then set the hook, and the other says to drop the tip of the rod and then use that slack to gain speed in setting the hook. So slack or no slack when setting the hook? What do you do?
Bassheads will do what works for them.
Some of this has to include the type of gear (rod & especially type of line;FC or braid).
I prefer a mod/fast rod for jigs and my hookset technique never includes slack line.
I'll set up on a fish as soon as I can but I'll usually 'adjust' the horsepower depending on the line.
FC usually gets a fairly serious full stroke deal but when using braid I'll 'tone' that down a bit.
Exception to that is if fishing in heavy vegetation - where I will use a very hard hooket with braid and attempt to use that momentum to get and keep the fish heading / moving my way; meaning up & out of the slop.
Hope that helps
A-Jay
This may help too, some good info here...
My buddy got me a pile of the Z-Man Crosseyez Finesse jigs for Christmas in 1/4 and 3/8oz. It looks like both sizes have about a 2/0 hook.
Looking for trailer suggestions for compact jigs...
Twin tail grub size?
Smaller craw/beaver options?
Thanks, and Happy New Year!
Smallie Beaver would be my first choice, but there are some other nice small trailers, too. Z-Man has a couple craw/bug/creature options that will fit a small profile like that.
Huddlebugs are 2.75" or so, I think. Ton of options.
On 12/31/2019 at 11:58 PM, galyonj said:Ton of options.
Isn't that the truth. I keep it pretty simple when it comes to jigs... Rage bugs or beavers 90% of the time depending on how much action I want. The other 10% are various craws.
Pretty limited experience with finesse jigs. I've typically thrown a double tail grub, but now that I have about a dozen of them I want to start to experiment.
On 12/31/2019 at 11:58 PM, galyonj said:Z-Man has a couple craw/bug/creature options that will fit a small profile like that.
My favorite on a finesse jig (I have Buckeye Spot Removers) is the TRD Hogz.
My second favorite is the Reaction Innovations Little Dipper.
On 12/31/2019 at 11:46 PM, rtwvumtneer6 said:My buddy got me a pile of the Z-Man Crosseyez Finesse jigs for Christmas in 1/4 and 3/8oz. It looks like both sizes have about a 2/0 hook.
Looking for trailer suggestions for compact jigs...
I fish a lot of jigs based on a 2/0 hook. Here's a few of my go to jig trailers.
Rage Tail Baby Bug (3")
Biwaa Warax Craw (3")
Zoom Z Hog Jr (3.5")
Zoom Z Craw Jr (3.5")
Netbait Paca Slim (4", bite off an inch)
Riot Baits Little Fuzzy (3.25")
Here's the Rage Baby Bug on a Siebert Sniper jig, which is built on a 2/0 hook.
On 1/1/2020 at 12:31 AM, MN Fisher said:TRD Hogz
I've never fished a finesse jig, and I've never heard of those, but they look adorable.
On 1/1/2020 at 12:40 AM, fishballer06 said:I fish a lot of jigs based on a 2/0 hook. Here's a few of my go to jig trailers.
Rage Tail Baby Bug (3")
Biwaa Warax Craw (3")
Zoom Z Hog Jr (3.5")
Zoom Z Craw Jr (3.5")
Netbait Paca Slim (4", bite off an inch)
Riot Baits Little Fuzzy (3.25")
Here's the Rage Baby Bug on a Siebert Sniper jig, which is built on a 2/0 hook.
If I were a fish, I'd eat that ????. I have a couple of Mike's minis and mudbugs. Got the baby bug and Ned bug for them.
Thanks for the suggestions!
On 1/1/2020 at 1:25 AM, rtwvumtneer6 said:I have a couple of Mike's minis and mudbugs.
I believe the Mudbug jig is the same frame as the Sniper, just a little different lead shape. Maybe @Siebert Outdoors can confirm this.
On 1/1/2020 at 1:51 AM, fishballer06 said:I believe the Mudbug jig is the same frame as the Sniper, just a little different lead shape. Maybe @Siebert Outdoors can confirm this.
That's correct. The head is a little different style but basically the same. My go finesse jig is the Sniper typically 5/16 with a Rage Baby Craw.
On 1/1/2020 at 5:05 AM, Siebert Outdoors said:That's correct. The head is a little different style but basically the same. My go finesse jig is the Sniper typically 5/16 with a Rage Baby Craw.
I absolutely fell in love with the Sniper jig this past season. Every time I go out, I have a Dredge Dock Rocker tied on and if I need to downsize, my go to is definitely a 5/16 Sniper jig. I usually have a Baby Craw trailer on it as well.
On 1/8/2020 at 1:35 AM, Shockwave said:Every time I go out, I have a Dredge Dock Rocker tied on
Have you tried Mike's @Siebert Outdoors other Dredge jigs? (G2 Football or Brush jigs) You can't beat that Owner Deep Throat hook!
When I started fishing with jigs I missed tons of fish until I started watching the line. Not to detect a bite, but to figure out what that bass was doing.
The easy bass were the ones that hit hard and would run with the jig. The hard bass were the ones that would strike at the jig to try and kill it, and then drop it to see if it was dead or not. After they were sure the bait was dead they would pick it up and start to swim off with it.
On 1/17/2020 at 3:14 AM, Harold Scoggins said:Have you tried Mike's @Siebert Outdoors other Dredge jigs? (G2 Football or Brush jigs) You can't beat that Owner Deep Throat hook!
I need more of those. Or better aim. Or both.
Probably both.
On 1/17/2020 at 3:14 AM, Harold Scoggins said:Have you tried Mike's @Siebert Outdoors other Dredge jigs? (G2 Football or Brush jigs) You can't beat that Owner Deep Throat hook!
I don't get to drag a football jig around much since 95% of the lakes around here have a muck bottom. I have some G2 Football Dredge jigs but I haven't used them much, if at all. I haven't played around with the brush jigs at all. I'll have to pick up a few and give them a shot this spring.
On 10/8/2019 at 6:16 PM, Chris244 said:I am pretty much new to fishing this season also and personally I have never once caught a fish with a jig. I don’t understand. Even when they are hitting other things I still can’t win with them. What’s the advantage of using one with a craw, why not just use a craw instead of adding a big unnatural bushy thing to the top of it lol. They obviously work but I sure can’t use them for some reason.
The idea is that bass think it's a crawfish and the skirt is a an added attraction, not the other way around. Therefore, if you made me choose between the skirt and the soft plastic craw, I'd just use a plain weedless jighead with the craw. That's what I did when I wanted to learn to use a jig. I wanted more bites so I got more practice at feeling the bite and setting the hook.
I was fishing with a guide a bit back and we were flipping grass. We were catching one at almost every patch of grass. He handed me another rod with the same type lure but it had a punching skirt added. He said it was to try to get a bigger bass to bite.
On 1/17/2020 at 9:22 PM, Shockwave said:I don't get to drag a football jig around much since 95% of the lakes around here have a muck bottom. I have some G2 Football Dredge jigs but I haven't used them much, if at all. I haven't played around with the brush jigs at all. I'll have to pick up a few and give them a shot this spring.
I am in the same boat, it's muck city around my local area. I love when I get to fish a football jig on a rock or sandy bottom lake, which is rare.
On 1/17/2020 at 9:22 PM, Shockwave said:I don't get to drag a football jig around much since 95% of the lakes around here have a muck bottom. I have some G2 Football Dredge jigs but I haven't used them much, if at all. I haven't played around with the brush jigs at all. I'll have to pick up a few and give them a shot this spring.
Honestly, I hate throwing a football jig where I'm at because I'm either dealing with a soft bottom and the jig just acts like a ditch witch and digs itself in, or I'm dealing with riprap that a football head will just get hung up on anyway.
On 2/17/2020 at 10:39 PM, galyonj said:Honestly, I hate throwing a football jig where I'm at because I'm either dealing with a soft bottom and the jig just acts like a ditch witch and digs itself in, or I'm dealing with riprap that a football head will just get hung up on anyway.
you fishing in the greenbelt? I throw football heads on every lake in the area and do quite well
On 2/18/2020 at 1:11 AM, Jermination said:you fishing in the greenbelt? I throw football heads on every lake in the area and do quite well
Pretty much wherever I can safely get to from land. I'd say that's the problem.
On 2/18/2020 at 1:19 AM, galyonj said:Pretty much wherever I can safely get to from land. I'd say that's the problem.
yeah that changes things lol sorry didn't mean to come off as condescending didnt realize you were walking the banks!
On 2/18/2020 at 1:22 AM, Jermination said:yeah that changes things lol sorry didn't mean to come off as condescending didnt realize you were walking the banks!
All good. I should have specified.