Having trouble fishing jigs 2024
caudburns11 reply :
This year I've decided I'm gonna force myself to learn jigs but it has only resulted in frustration. I've been trying to practice different retrieves and I how to detect a bite but I don't have any luck. I know your supposed to watch your line but it feels like I wouldn't be able to tell because my line is always moving and shaking when I'm bouncing the jig off the bottom. I really want to learn how to fish jigs but I can't figure out how to detect bites
papajoe222 reply :
Glen did a video on learning how to detect bites with soft plastic baits and a jig bite is often very similar. http://www.bassresource.com/bass-fishing-videos/feel-bite.html If you are familiar with fishing a T-rig, you should be able to detect a jig bite.
One suggestion: slow down. If your line is always moving, you're fishing too fast. Pause between hops, or after dragging the jig a short distance. Dragging it along the bottom, using the rod to do so, will transmit valuable information about the bottom and the presence of cover more than hopping it.
The majority of hits when fishing a jig occur on the initial fall. This is why it's the perfect presentation when flipping or pitching and why it's used more for 'target fishing' than say covering a flat with multiple casts.
Check out the pinned topic at the top of this forum. There is a bunch of great info in some of the responses.
roadwarrior reply :
smalljaw67 reply :
I say this in all sincerity, fishing a jig is the easiest thing to do but the hardest to learn. When I was teaching my grandson how to fish a jig, we started with small jigs, I suggest something like the Strike King Bitsy Bug with the bitsy craw trailer. The reason they are hard to learn is that they aren't a numbers bait, they tend to get bit by larger fish on average and during a tough bite smaller fish that would bite a worm will often pass a jig by without as much as looking at it. Bites are going to be one of 3 distinct ways, the first is the "thump", that is the one we all like, there is no mistake on whether it was a bite as it just about rips the rod from your hands, these are the ones you get the least. The second type of bite is the "tap-tap" this is one you get most of the time and there is no mistake, you will know when you get this type of bite. The 3rd type, and the one that is the hardest to detect, is the "extra weight" or "weeds" bite, you'll often get this type of strike when dead sticking (letting it sit still for a minute or so) a jig, you begin to move the jig slowly and it feels like it is bogged down with weeds of something else that feels "mushy", these are missed by the novice jig fisherman but once you catch that first fish on a jig, that is when it gets much easier. I remember when I started fishing a jig, it was with a 1/2oz Arkiy style jig and I remember thinking that the fish in my waters won't eat that since it is so big. I fished with it for a full day and nothing so the next day I decided to only make a few casts and then forget about it, and on my second cast I felt the "tap-tap" and I set the hook and it was my first largemouth on a jig and we didn't have hand held scales back then but we did have a tape measure and it was my first bass that was over 17", the fish went 20" and I was a jig fishing fool since, that was 1981 or 82.
scaleface reply :
Try fishing a texas rig plastic worm instead . The bites feel the same and you should get more of them . The way I detect strikes is to hold the rod in front of the reel and run the line between the index finger and thumb . Lift the bait off the bottom then let it fall straight down . Lower your rod tip at the same speed the lure is falling while keeping it semi tight .This ensures it is falling straight and keeps the line tight enough to feel the "tap". Almost all hits occur when the bait is falling .Watch the line where it enters the water. I use mono filament and when the lure hits bottom it will slacken up a little . .Look for it to slightly jump ,move to the side , or maybe it doesnt seem to find bottom , this would indicate a bass has it and swimming toward you . A lot of bites you just cant detect and it takes practice . When I'm raising the lure I know how it feels when nothing is on it . If I start to lift and it feels slightly heavier , like I'm caught on a leaf .I set the hook . I call it weighing the line . If you think you might have had a bite , look closely at the worm . Bass will usually leave teeth marks on it . It will appear rough from their sandpaper like teeth . Fish jigs exactly the same way .
Evan K reply :
I usually can't detect strikes. If I go to hop it again and feel a strong resistance I set the hook, which means a handful of ghost hooksets but also some pretty sweet fish.
Gundog reply :
To me fishing a jig was a natural progression. I fished texas rigged plastic worms and the bite was similar. As was the fishing style. Pitch or flip it into lilypads/weeds and hop it slightly. To detect the bite I found holding the line as it comes out of the reel with your thumb and pointer finger helps feel really subtle bites.
WRB reply :
There isn't any panacea lures in bass fishing and that includes jigs.
Bass jigs come in a wide variety of sizes and types, so what specific "jig" are you trying to learn to use?
Tom
the reel ess reply :
I bought a Hvy stick just for frogs and jigs and told myself I was going to learn jigs or die trying. But jigs tend to get hung up a lot more than T rigs for me. I'm not a big fan of jigs for this reason as well as the bites don't feel as positive. I started fishing T rigged craws and got really good at it since I've always fished T rigged worms. I like the Berkley Chigger Craw, the Zoom Super Speed Craw and just bought some Zoom Z Craws. My biggest 5 fish came on the craw last year. I bought some heads that allow you to t-rig them that has a weight like a jig. Hopefully this becomes so much like jig fishing for me that I can just transition to a jig.
The advice about starting smaller is good and I need to heed that myself.. I've found that the Hula Grub is a good smaller jig option as well. It'll pull more bites an help gain confidence. I need to buy some Bitsy Jigs and just practice, practice, practice until I have a feel for it. If you have a place where the fish are dumb and hungry at your disposal, take the jigs there.
WRB reply :
Can't help you if you don't reply.
I will assume you are using a typical Arkie style bass jig with weed gaurd, 1/2 oz with a soft plastic craw trailer that 90% of the bass anglers fish with.
Your spinning tackle may have 8# test mono line and medium 6' to 6'6" length rod.
This spinning outfit isn't a good combination to use for 1/2 oz jigs or T- rigged with heavy wire worm hooks.
1. Use 1/8 to 3/16 oz ball head, plain no weed guard with Yamamoto Hula grub 4" twin tail trailer. This is a finesse jig presentation that Glenn has a vedio showing how to use it and a good choice for your spinning outfit.
2. Strike detection is an art with jigs and most anglers miss a high percentage of strikes and detect the strike when the bass eats the jig moving off with it.
Tom
MickD reply :
If you are not already doing so, try using braid, about 10-15 in open water, 15-20 in heavy weeds, with a flourocarbon leader (15-20 pound, a couple feet long at least). Make sure you have a good, sensitive rod. If you're using something like an old Ugly Stick, you could be bitten by a pickup truck and not feel it. With the right equipment, just keep trying and it will come. With the wrong equipment, it may never come.
Comfortably Numb reply :
Shallow spring fishing is a good time to learn the bass jig for me. Stick to lighter jigs (since more shallow). 1/4 oz. They wont get hung up on bottom as much. Cut the skirt down a lil and use a Baby Rage craw. Medium or MH rod max. 20# braid and a 12-15# flouro leader should feel the bite.
ClackerBuzz reply :
tried fishing a jig one year and didn't catch a thing so i gave up. decided to pull them out again the following season. nothing again until i stopped 'fishing' it to check my cell and text a few people. picked up my rod again and got slammed. the jig fishing light bulb went off. if ur not catching any fish on a jig it's b/c ur fishing it too fast.
dman reply :
On 4/22/2016 at 3:31 AM, the reel ess said:I bought some heads that allow you to t-rig them that has a weight like a jig. Hopefully this becomes so much like jig fishing for me that I can just transition to a jig.
Who makes these? I'd like to try them
Wbeadlescomb reply :
It's just a confidence thing. If I'm throwing a bottom bait it's going to be a jig. The only way I use a Texas rig anymore is flipping or pitching
A-Jay reply :
On 4/21/2016 at 4:50 AM, caudburns11 said:This year I've decided I'm gonna force myself to learn jigs but it has only resulted in frustration. I've been trying to practice different retrieves and I how to detect a bite but I don't have any luck. I know your supposed to watch your line but it feels like I wouldn't be able to tell because my line is always moving and shaking when I'm bouncing the jig off the bottom. I really want to learn how to fish jigs but I can't figure out how to detect bites
Kindly tell us this; which baits &/or presentations do you feel most confident in and why ?
This may help the BR jig fishing membership to formulate a way for you to get better.
A no response here would indicate that you're no longer interested in learning.
We'll be standing by.
A-Jay
the reel ess reply :
On 4/24/2016 at 11:43 PM, dman said:Who makes these? I'd like to try them
Big Bite Baits. Got 'em at Academy.
Further North reply :
Glenn's video is perfect...especially the part about fishing shallow for smaller fish exclusively for a while.
I'd also recommend fishing a jig in really clear water so you can sight fish...when you see the bass pick up the jig and connect it to what you're feeling, you'll learn faster.
Catt reply :
There is only one way to learn jigs...throw em!
Catt reply :
The art of feeling a worm/jig bite is a fine combination of watching your line and feeling for unnatural sensations of what your bait shouldn't feel like. Some times you will feel that classic Tap, some times you'll only see line movement, some times your line will simply go slack, but some times there will only be a feeling of heaviness that is almost like your line will not move. The bites where the bass moves after inhaling you bait are the easy ones to feel because there is line movement, the bites where the bass simply inhales your bait and just sits there are the hardest to feel. Feeling a worm/jig bite requires keeping a certain amount of tension on your line while at the same time keeping a certain amount of slackness in your line. To the average angler this makes no sense at all but the worm/jig angler it makes total sense.
Maintain contact with your lure at all times, allow the lure to free-fall unrestricted, but without letting slack form in the line; follow your lures down with your rod tip.
Pay close attention to the depth you're fishing, any sudden change in the amount of line you're using could mean you've been bit. For instance, if you're fishing 6 feet of water and the lure suddenly stops at the 3 depth, it's possible a bass has taken the bait. If you're fishing 3 feet of water and 6 feet of line sinks beneath the mat, chances are good a bass is traveling with the bait. This is extremely true on the initial drop and no line movement maybe noticed.
Strikes will sometimes so subtle with no line movement that they can go unnoticed if you feel is a spongy sensation, as if the line suddenly got heavy set the hook.
The hook set is the only part of this sport that is still free so when in doubt drop the rod, reel the slack, and set the hook.
A-Jay reply :
On 4/25/2016 at 9:58 PM, Catt said:The art of feeling a worm/jig bite is a fine combination of watching your line and feeling for unnatural sensations of what your bait shouldn't feel like. Some times you will feel that classic Tap, some times you'll only see line movement, some times your line will simply go slack, but some times there will only be a feeling of heaviness that is almost like your line will not move. The bites where the bass moves after inhaling you bait are the easy ones to feel because there is line movement, the bites where the bass simply inhales your bait and just sits there are the hardest to feel. Feeling a worm/jig bite requires keeping a certain amount of tension on your line while at the same time keeping a certain amount of slackness in your line. To the average angler this makes no sense at all but the worm/jig angler it makes total sense.
Maintain contact with your lure at all times, allow the lure to free-fall unrestricted, but without letting slack form in the line; follow your lures down with your rod tip.
Pay close attention to the depth you're fishing, any sudden change in the amount of line you're using could mean you've been bit. For instance, if you're fishing 6 feet of water and the lure suddenly stops at the 3 depth, it's possible a bass has taken the bait. If you're fishing 3 feet of water and 6 feet of line sinks beneath the mat, chances are good a bass is traveling with the bait. This is extremely true on the initial drop and no line movement maybe noticed.
Strikes will sometimes so subtle with no line movement that they can go unnoticed if you feel is a spongy sensation, as if the line suddenly got heavy set the hook.
The hook set is the only part of this sport that is still free so when in doubt drop the rod, reel the slack, and set the hook.
Well Said Catt.
"Feeling a worm/jig bite requires keeping a certain amount of tension on your line while at the same time keeping a certain amount of slackness in your line. To the average angler this makes no sense at all but the worm/jig angler it makes total sense."
Took me a while to understand what the above underlined passage really meant and even longer to be able to create it with rod & reel in hand, but for me it is the very essences of fishing not only jigs but most any bottom contact bait.
A-Jay
J Francho reply :
On 4/25/2016 at 10:08 PM, A-Jay said:Feeling a worm/jig bite requires keeping a certain amount of tension on your line while at the same time keeping a certain amount of slackness in your line.
Yep, especially important when using braid. Braid transmits even less information on a semi slack line than mono, copoly, or fluoro. Tip watchers will be oblivious to bites that a line watcher will pick up on.
Catt reply :
Those bumps, thumps, tics, & taps are easy to detect, so are the ones where ya see line movement.
It's the ones where the bass inhales your jig without any tell-tale signs or movement & proceeds to sit there until you apply to much pressure at which time they spit it.
Keeping a certain amount of tension while keeping a certain amount to slackness will "clue" you in on two bites.
If you jig/t-rig is sitting still & your line gets tighter or your line gets slacker odds are you've had a bass pick up your lure!
A-Jay & I have said it 100,000 times...try night fishing!
J Francho reply :
On 4/25/2016 at 11:51 PM, Catt said:It's the ones where the bass inhales your jig without any tell-tale signs or movement & proceeds to sit there until you apply to much pressure at which time they spit it.
Once I visually witness a bass violently take my jig on the drop, and noticed only a tiny bit of movement in my line, and no sensation of a bite, did this point get driven home. I did catch the fish...barely.
A-Jay reply :
On 4/25/2016 at 11:51 PM, Catt said:Those bumps, thumps, tics, & taps are easy to detect, so are the ones where ya see line movement.
It's the ones where the bass inhales your jig without any tell-tale signs or movement & proceeds to sit there until you apply to much pressure at which time they spit it.
Keeping a certain amount of tension while keeping a certain amount to slackness will "clue" you in on two bites.
If you jig/t-rig is sitting still & your line gets tighter or your line gets slacker odds are you've had a bass pick up your lure!
A-Jay & I have said it 100,000 times...try night fishing!
Game. Changer.
However casting into the Black Horizon-less Abyss ~ That's a whole different animal.
A-Jay
Bassin407 reply :
I'm in your boat man I'm new to plastics been out a few times using plastic worms and it's hard to tell if I'm seaweed or it's an actually bite so I do a little of hook setting but I'm just catching water. Lol I'm fishing weightless Texas rig with a 5 inch worm. Size 4 offset hook. 20 lb braid.
For somebody who is new to jigging, should they start with weight?
J Francho reply :
On 4/26/2016 at 2:14 AM, Bassin407 said:For somebody who is new to jigging, should they start with weight?
I'm not sure I understand the question. Jigs come in lots of weights. I generally throw a 1/2 oz. jig as a starting point. Seems heavy, but you get a good feel for it and it's heavy enough to stay connected, but not so heavy it gets caught up in everything.
Wbeadlescomb reply :
On 4/26/2016 at 2:14 AM, Bassin407 said:I'm in your boat man I'm new to plastics been out a few times using plastic worms and it's hard to tell if I'm seaweed or it's an actually bite so I do a little of hook setting but I'm just catching water. Lol I'm fishing weightless Texas rig with a 5 inch worm. Size 4 offset hook. 20 lb braid.
For somebody who is new to jigging, should they start with weight?
4/0 hook or no 4 hook?
I like a 3/8 ounce jig. I rarely fish water over 20 foot deep. And deep that 20 I'm probably going to throw a 1/2 or 3/4
Catt reply :
Weight selection has nothing to do with water depth!!!
Rate Of Fall!
I'll throw a 1 oz jig in 5' of water or a 1/4 oz jig in 25' of water!
WRB reply :
Until the OP decides to come back and answer a few questions that has been asked, we are preaching to the choir.
Tom
caudburns11 reply :
Thanks for all the replies. Haven't been able to get back on until today. But to answer most of the questions I'm pretty much using 1/4 to 3/8 oz jigs with a reaction innovations trailer.
On 4/25/2016 at 11:51 PM, Catt said:Those bumps, thumps, tics, & taps are easy to detect, so are the ones where ya see line movement.
It's the ones where the bass inhales your jig without any tell-tale signs or movement & proceeds to sit there until you apply to much pressure at which time they spit it.
Keeping a certain amount of tension while keeping a certain amount to slackness will "clue" you in on two bites.
If you jig/t-rig is sitting still & your line gets tighter or your line gets slacker odds are you've had a bass pick up your lure!
A-Jay & I have said it 100,000 times...try night fishing!
Thanks for the advice. I think some of my problem comes from not having the experience of how to retrieve the line and keeping tension in the line. I will try the night fishing if I get a chance. Thanks again
On 4/21/2016 at 10:20 AM, papajoe222 said:Glen did a video on learning how to detect bites with soft plastic baits and a jig bite is often very similar. http://www.bassresource.com/bass-fishing-videos/feel-bite.html If you are familiar with fishing a T-rig, you should be able to detect a jig bite.
One suggestion: slow down. If your line is always moving, you're fishing too fast. Pause between hops, or after dragging the jig a short distance. Dragging it along the bottom, using the rod to do so, will transmit valuable information about the bottom and the presence of cover more than hopping it.
The majority of hits when fishing a jig occur on the initial fall. This is why it's the perfect presentation when flipping or pitching and why it's used more for 'target fishing' than say covering a flat with multiple casts.
Check out the pinned topic at the top of this forum. There is a bunch of great info in some of the responses.
Thanks, I will check out the video. I'm learning more patience every time I go out and try. I think most of my problem comes from not letting the bait drop/reeling in to fast and not working it correctly
caudburns11 reply :
On 4/21/2016 at 7:26 PM, smalljaw67 said:I say this in all sincerity, fishing a jig is the easiest thing to do but the hardest to learn. When I was teaching my grandson how to fish a jig, we started with small jigs, I suggest something like the Strike King Bitsy Bug with the bitsy craw trailer. The reason they are hard to learn is that they aren't a numbers bait, they tend to get bit by larger fish on average and during a tough bite smaller fish that would bite a worm will often pass a jig by without as much as looking at it. Bites are going to be one of 3 distinct ways, the first is the "thump", that is the one we all like, there is no mistake on whether it was a bite as it just about rips the rod from your hands, these are the ones you get the least. The second type of bite is the "tap-tap" this is one you get most of the time and there is no mistake, you will know when you get this type of bite. The 3rd type, and the one that is the hardest to detect, is the "extra weight" or "weeds" bite, you'll often get this type of strike when dead sticking (letting it sit still for a minute or so) a jig, you begin to move the jig slowly and it feels like it is bogged down with weeds of something else that feels "mushy", these are missed by the novice jig fisherman but once you catch that first fish on a jig, that is when it gets much easier. I remember when I started fishing a jig, it was with a 1/2oz Arkiy style jig and I remember thinking that the fish in my waters won't eat that since it is so big. I fished with it for a full day and nothing so the next day I decided to only make a few casts and then forget about it, and on my second cast I felt the "tap-tap" and I set the hook and it was my first largemouth on a jig and we didn't have hand held scales back then but we did have a tape measure and it was my first bass that was over 17", the fish went 20" and I was a jig fishing fool since, that was 1981 or 82.
Thanks, the 3rd bite you described is what I'm struggling with because of all the wood and stumps in the bottom of my local pond. I always feel a little weight every few cast and I'll set the hook and it will be nothing. I'm hoping with time I'll be able to distinguish whether it's a bite or not once I get a feel for the bait
primetime reply :
There are so many good videos online where you can really learn alot. I would suggest learning in an area you know for sure holds fish. I would try to find a pond with a high volume of Bass and also an area of weeds and cover where you can work on your pitching technique since water entry and accuracy are often the most important parts of catching fish. It really is all about practice, and you will learn something new everytime you fish...The Strike King Bitsy Bug Flipping Jig is a good jig to learn with, the weedguard is a bit stiff, but you can fix that just don't cut them shorter without giving it thought, it makes them stiffer and complicates the problem...
It is important to have the right Jig for the job..I like the advise above about using a pegged texas rig...If you can get bit on a 1/2 oz., pegged creature, you can fish a jig....Just my 2 cents....
J Francho reply :
For that matter, if you can get bit on a senko, you can probably get bit on a jig.
WRB reply :
On 4/29/2016 at 12:14 AM, J Francho said:For that matter, if you can get bit on a senko, you can probably get bit on a jig.
Getting bit is the easy part, detecting strikes is what separates the good jig fisherman from everyone else.
What Catt was discribing I call controlled slack and that varies depending on a lot of factors that only time on the water can define.
Everyone gets upset when I say most big bass jig bites go undetected, it's true! A jig isn't a mouth full of soft plastic for bass 7 lbs and up, it's a gum drop that gets rejected quickly if you can't detect it's in their mouth in time.
Tom
J Francho reply :
I know how to detect the spit out better than the take!
Catt reply :
On 4/29/2016 at 7:36 AM, WRB said:Getting bit is the easy part, detecting strikes is what separates the good jig fisherman from everyone else.
What Catt was discribing I call controlled slack and that varies depending on a lot of factors that only time on the water can define.
Everyone gets upset when I say most big bass jig bites go undetected, it's true! A jig isn't a mouth full of soft plastic for bass 7 lbs and up, it's a gum drop that gets rejected quickly if you can't detect it's in their mouth in time.
Tom
Reminds me of Glen Lau videos 
WRB reply :
The premonition bite; should be a fish there so you swing and there she is! Sometimes you just go with instinct.
Tom
BaitMonkey1984 reply :
I like to power fish but my strength is really soft plastics. I am an alright stick with a senko or a chigger craw. And after years and 1000s of bites I can detect the bite on those baits and set the hook vis a vis muscle memory. Despite that, I still struggle with a Jig. I got a little better last year and I think two things helped. One is I made sure to trim the weed guard making it softer and used smaller trailers. Secondly, like others started I slowed down. Soaked a jig. Got me more bites, hope it helps you out too.
J Francho reply :
On 4/29/2016 at 11:02 AM, BaitMonkey1984 said:One is I made sure to trim the weed guard making it softer
So others don't get confused, trimming a brush guard so it is SHORTER makes it stiffer. THINNING a weed guard by trimming out a few fibers makes it softer.
BaitMonkey1984 reply :
On 4/30/2016 at 2:10 AM, J Francho said:So others don't get confused, trimming a brush guard so it is SHORTER makes it stiffer. THINNING a weed guard by trimming out a few fibers makes it softer.
Correct, thanks for making that point clear, as it is a very important distinction.
WRB reply :
Back in the day when I used a weed gaurd cutting the fiber strands off just above the hook point parallel hook shank then spreading apart to make a V worked OK. This way the bass doesn't bend down the gaurd more than 1/8" and 2 smaller bunches of fibers bends easier then 1 bunch. Today you can order or make jigs with smaller bunches of fiber with smaller diameter fibers.
I only use a fiber gaurd when necessary in heavy cover, otherwise I use a hitchhiker type spring to attach a short 2" worm section to protect the hook point from snagging.
Tom
thomas15 reply :
Good thread. Thanks.
Munkin reply :
On 4/25/2016 at 9:58 PM, Catt said:The art of feeling a worm/jig bite is a fine combination of watching your line and feeling for unnatural sensations of what your bait shouldn't feel like. Some times you will feel that classic Tap, some times you'll only see line movement, some times your line will simply go slack, but some times there will only be a feeling of heaviness that is almost like your line will not move. The bites where the bass moves after inhaling you bait are the easy ones to feel because there is line movement, the bites where the bass simply inhales your bait and just sits there are the hardest to feel. Feeling a worm/jig bite requires keeping a certain amount of tension on your line while at the same time keeping a certain amount of slackness in your line. To the average angler this makes no sense at all but the worm/jig angler it makes total sense.
Maintain contact with your lure at all times, allow the lure to free-fall unrestricted, but without letting slack form in the line; follow your lures down with your rod tip.
Pay close attention to the depth you're fishing, any sudden change in the amount of line you're using could mean you've been bit. For instance, if you're fishing 6 feet of water and the lure suddenly stops at the 3 depth, it's possible a bass has taken the bait. If you're fishing 3 feet of water and 6 feet of line sinks beneath the mat, chances are good a bass is traveling with the bait. This is extremely true on the initial drop and no line movement maybe noticed.
Strikes will sometimes so subtle with no line movement that they can go unnoticed if you feel is a spongy sensation, as if the line suddenly got heavy set the hook.
The hook set is the only part of this sport that is still free so when in doubt drop the rod, reel the slack, and set the hook.
This is what I have to try and explain to people learning to fish jigs! Get use to what the jig feels like on most casts and when something feels different it is a fish.
Allen
Josh Smith reply :
On 4/21/2016 at 10:20 AM, papajoe222 said:The majority of hits when fishing a jig occur on the initial fall. This is why it's the perfect presentation when flipping or pitching and why it's used more for 'target fishing' than say covering a flat with multiple casts.
I very rarely experience this. Generally, I must work for the strike, meaning, I have to make the thing behave like a crawdad to get the bass to hit. It's really fun to watch when sight fishing.
Josh
J Francho reply :
On 5/1/2016 at 11:23 AM, Josh Smith said:I very rarely experience this.
Then you're missing bites when you aren't sight fishing. I'd say more than half my bites come on the initial drop, if I'm fishing active fish. Generally that's all I'm looking for. I that fails, then I slow it down, and try to "finesse" a bite. Also, by initial drop I just mean the moments after the jig hits the water and drops to the target. It may be the first cast, or the 25th cast to that target. Often times, you cant really hop a jig around in submerged timber, under a dock, or in heavy weeds. I'm not even so sure I'm emulating a crayfish, though it looks like that to *me*. Most of the time I think the bass just reacts to a vulnerable prey item. I don't know if I'm that great a jig fisherman, but I use them a lot, and I don't overthink the fishing part nearly as much as the consideration I put into what type of jig I'm going to use.
Sam reply :
Caud, please take all of the above into consideration when fishing a jig.
And I want to add one more tad bit of information: Fishing a jig is for bigger fish, not numbers of fish.
If you are like me and can't sit still or let the bait sit for thirty-seconds or more before moving it then you will never learn jig fishing.
Jig fishing is hard for me to do so I picture the jig on the bottom acting like a crawfish. As long as you can do this, and understand that sometimes the jig does not make it to the bottom on a flip or pitch, you will be a successful jig fisherman.
Now go outside, wherever you are, and throw that jig every day for two weeks. And only the jig.
J Francho reply :
On 5/2/2016 at 3:07 AM, Sam said:If you are like me and can't sit still or let the bait sit for thirty-seconds or more before moving it then you will never learn jig fishing.
I can't remember ever making it 30 seconds! I'm looking for active fish, not some dummy that has to stare at it's lunch forever to decide to take a bite, lol. I'm sure I'll take some flack for that, but it's just my impatience as well.
Sam reply :
On 5/2/2016 at 3:11 AM, J Francho said:I can't remember ever making it 30 seconds! I'm looking for active fish, not some dummy that has to stare at it's lunch forever to decide to take a bite, lol. I'm sure I'll take some flack for that, but it's just my impatience as well.
Totally agree. Active fish make the day. I usually move the jig within 15-seconds but I do let it sit after the initial pitch for about 30-seconds. My problem is if I don't get hit within ten or so casts it is back to the shaky head, drop shot or Senko.
Old habits die hard!!!!! 
Catt reply :
On 5/2/2016 at 3:07 AM, Sam said:On 5/2/2016 at 3:11 AM, J Francho said:I can't remember ever making it 30 seconds! I'm looking for active fish, not some dummy that has to stare at it's lunch forever to decide to take a bite, lol. I'm sure I'll take some flack for that, but it's just my impatience as well.
If you are like me and can't sit still or let the bait sit for thirty-seconds or more before moving it then you will never learn jig fishing.
The only time I'll wait that long is casting a jig on deep water structure!
scaleface reply :
I often hop the jig all the way back to the boat .
J Francho reply :
On 5/2/2016 at 4:26 AM, Catt said:The only time I'll wait that long is casting a jig on deep water structure!
Yeah, I agree with that. Up here, dragging a football jig is the way, and that is a really slow presentation. Not really anything like the usual summer jigging in weeds and trees.
hawgenvy reply :
There are all these subtle bites we never even know about. Well, maybe some people do. But even they get fooled most of the time -- so say the experts that observe people bass fishing while scuba diving. Believe me, those guys must do a lot of underwater laughing -- at us. Anyway, these bites we never feel don't do us no harm nor no good. It's like they never even happened. My point is some things in life you just can't worry too much about.
Now, I've had some darn good luck jig fishing by feeling those bites that I can feel and settin' that hook hard into that tough jaw. Eventually you'll find a day or spot where they're suckin' down jigs and you'll feel them and catch those ones and you'll start to find it easy and very productive to fish a jig. And you'll get your confidence, and then I'll bet you'll get better at it too. The other thing I want to say is that some people say you gotta set the jig hook immediately but I've pulled too many jigs out the mouth of babes that way and so I like to wait one short second and then slam it home. Maybe my jigs are just more delicious than everybody else's.
Josh Smith reply :
On 5/2/2016 at 2:52 AM, J Francho said:Then you're missing bites when you aren't sight fishing. I'd say more than half my bites come on the initial drop, if I'm fishing active fish. Generally that's all I'm looking for. I that fails, then I slow it down, and try to "finesse" a bite. Also, by initial drop I just mean the moments after the jig hits the water and drops to the target. It may be the first cast, or the 25th cast to that target. Often times, you cant really hop a jig around in submerged timber, under a dock, or in heavy weeds. I'm not even so sure I'm emulating a crayfish, though it looks like that to *me*. Most of the time I think the bass just reacts to a vulnerable prey item. I don't know if I'm that great a jig fisherman, but I use them a lot, and I don't overthink the fishing part nearly as much as the consideration I put into what type of jig I'm going to use.
I'm probably not, but only because I tend to start jigs off where the probability of there being a fish is low. For example, if there's a tree in the water, I cast over that tree, drag the jig onto the tree, and let it fall into the water. Then, I set the hook because I figure a fish will be on that second drop. If there's no fish on, then it's just a hop. I guess this could be considered the first drop, though, and if so, then I generally do not miss them because I assume a fish is on.
The lake where I largemouth fish is so danged overgrown, though, that when I do cast to a target where the bass are, it's unlikely a fish would see it during the first drop.
I have no doubt that you're correct on the majority of non-overgrown lakes, though. This lake is not typical and I sometimes forget that. It's thick salad.
Josh
J Francho reply :
Not sure how you know there isn't a fish where you cast to, if you're not sight fishing. I just cast to where I'm casting to. Most of my lakes are overgrown just after spawn. It doesn't really matter, but unless you're throwing them on the bank, and hopping them in the water (excellent technique for frogs and rats), I just don't assume there isn't a fish there. My goal is to have the jig enter the water quietly (if possible) and glide down in front of a fish. Sometimes you have change jigs or trailers to adjust ROF and/profile that they prefer. Sometimes you have to do this 20 times, and on the 21st drop, they bite. I definitely use and recommend your idea to cast beyond the area you want to fish with moving baits, either letting them sink or dive to depth so they are in the bite zone when they go by the fish. But "drop baits" like jigs and punch rigs and the like, are that - drop in their face baits. A traditional Texas rigged worm, that's also where I'd go beyond where I wanted fish, but alas, many times that worm never makes it to the bottom before BOOM.
I'm not gonna tell you you're wrong, but I'm gonna tell you try and think like this for a day or month, and see if it improves your bites. I don't think I'm in the minority among successful jig fishers when I make these suggestions. Try it with a different philosophy, see what happens. Assume you're getting bit a second or two after the bait hits the water. Be ready for the *tap* 'cause that's all it is on a slack line.
Senko lover reply :
The first jig fish I ever caught, I didn't feel at it at all until my rod doubled over; thankfully it was an energetic little thing or else I never would have caught it. It got easier from then on.
One thing that really helps is keeping your thumb and pointer finger on the line at all times when dragging a jig or working it really slowly. I'm right handed and keep the fingers of my left hand on it while working it. Hopping and swimming a jig quickly, I don't usually do that. But it helps with an ultra-slow presentation.
Jigs are awesome, there's just some misconceptions about them.
WRB reply :
90+% of my jig strikes occur within 10' of the spot it landed on the bottom, if it gets to the bottom. Unless I know some structure or cover lies between me outside of 10' or so it's retrieved and make another cast. It's more important to make more casts at different angles then soak a jig. I don't have the patients to let a jig sit still for 30 seconds, 10 to 15 and then I'am shaking it, not 30 unless I am working on a rare backlash.
Tom
WRB reply :
On 4/29/2016 at 11:02 AM, BaitMonkey1984 said:I like to power fish but my strength is really soft plastics. I am an alright stick with a senko or a chigger craw. And after years and 1000s of bites I can detect the bite on those baits and set the hook vis a vis muscle memory. Despite that, I still struggle with a Jig. I got a little better last year and I think two things helped. One is I made sure to trim the weed guard making it softer and used smaller trailers. Secondly, like others started I slowed down. Soaked a jig. Got me more bites, hope it helps you out too.
I will share a secret with you but don't tell anyone.
Use your Chigger craw as a trailer on a spider jig.
Weld Yamamoto spider skirt; cut into 2 skirts and weld it onto the head end of your 3" or 4" Chigger craw. Use a plain 1/4 to 3/8 oz jig with the spider/Chigger craw.....killer combo!
Tom
Choporoz reply :
Since I saw underwater footage videos of bass staring at lures for up to a minute before taking them, I was able to leave a lure in one place for about 3 seconds....no patience whatsoever....now I can wiggle a drop shot or shakey head for at least 6 or 7 seconds at a time.
Check out Lake Fork Guy's smallie drop shot video....gives you new appreciation for what's going on with the fish down there
Catt reply :
If y'all are talking casting a jig then yes I'll pause for 15-30 seconds between each time I move it.
When fishing deep water structure I let my jig settle to the bottom, wait 15-30 seconds, short stroke 3 times in rapid succession (Like a crawfish), pause, repeat all the way back to the boat. This is the same way I fish a Texas Rig on structure!
I've caught em straight under the boat with this technique!
Josh Smith reply :
On 5/3/2016 at 3:00 AM, J Francho said:Not sure how you know there isn't a fish where you cast to, if you're not sight fishing. I just cast to where I'm casting to. Most of my lakes are overgrown just after spawn. It doesn't really matter, but unless you're throwing them on the bank, and hopping them in the water (excellent technique for frogs and rats), I just don't assume there isn't a fish there. My goal is to have the jig enter the water quietly (if possible) and glide down in front of a fish. Sometimes you have change jigs or trailers to adjust ROF and/profile that they prefer. Sometimes you have to do this 20 times, and on the 21st drop, they bite. I definitely use and recommend your idea to cast beyond the area you want to fish with moving baits, either letting them sink or dive to depth so they are in the bite zone when they go by the fish. But "drop baits" like jigs and punch rigs and the like, are that - drop in their face baits. A traditional Texas rigged worm, that's also where I'd go beyond where I wanted fish, but alas, many times that worm never makes it to the bottom before BOOM.
I'm not gonna tell you you're wrong, but I'm gonna tell you try and think like this for a day or month, and see if it improves your bites. I don't think I'm in the minority among successful jig fishers when I make these suggestions. Try it with a different philosophy, see what happens. Assume you're getting bit a second or two after the bait hits the water. Be ready for the *tap* 'cause that's all it is on a slack line.
Yessir; I generally try to cast onto the bank, or onto a log, and sometimes, when using strong braid, I cast over a low branch and let it drop quietly into the water.
A year or two back I was looking for jigs that had floating trailers that I could tailor to a very slow rate of fall because I figured they should be hit on the drop. I found these jigs and trailers, but haven't really used them. The trailers are very hook resistant and hard to put on.
You know, I have a lot of violent strikes on with topwater on that lake, just before or just after the first twitch. I agree with you that I should have strikes on falling jigs. This is why I believe that the underwater foliage is just too thick. The 2007 lake report states that the bass have trouble growing because they can't effectively hunt baitfish in this grass in this particular lake.
I will do as you suggest, however, and try this again for a while. Conditions may have changed.
Regards,
Josh
TxHawgs reply :
I love these jig threads, reading everyone's advice and techniques. After moving to Tx and fishing Fork I was introduced to a guide who is known to be very proficient at catching LM on Fork with jigs, and this is what he taught me. Position the boat in the creek channel and cast the jig up onto the flats, which are just covered with stumps and slowly drag stop drag the jig across the flat and down the creek bank. He said the bass will be sitting there and the jig will sneak up on them come over a root and fall next to them out of nowhere and bam reaction strike.
Josh Smith reply :
On 5/5/2016 at 9:15 AM, TxHawgs said:I love these jig threads, reading everyone's advice and techniques. After moving to Tx and fishing Fork I was introduced to a guide who is known to be very proficient at catching LM on Fork with jigs, and this is what he taught me. Position the boat in the creek channel and cast the jig up onto the flats, which are just covered with stumps and slowly drag stop drag the jig across the flat and down the creek bank. He said the bass will be sitting there and the jig will sneak up on them come over a root and fall next to them out of nowhere and bam reaction strike.
This is why I consider a jig to be a lure I move with the reel and not the rod. Dragging looks like a foraging crawdad, while popping it looks like a crawdad trying to get away.
Josh
Catt reply :
On 5/5/2016 at 11:47 AM, Josh Smith said:This is why I consider a jig to be a lure I move with the reel and not the rod. Dragging looks like a foraging crawdad, while popping it looks like a crawdad trying to get away.
Josh
Ever watch a bass attack a crawfish?
The second that crawfish flips its tail leaving the bottom bam! Its go bass all over it!
Turkey sandwich reply :
There's some really good jig fishing info on here. The one piece of advice that I haven't seen posted that every beginner jig/T-rig fisherman I've ever fished with has made has to do with mechanics. Jigs (with exceptions of swim jigs) are not movement baits like crankbaits, spinnerbaits, etc. To feel the bottom, maintain a natural presentation, feel bites, etc, you need to get used to using your rod tip to move the jig, impart action, etc. The reel only really exists to pick up line 90% of the time. If you're using your reel for the majority of your movement, you're not creating strikes, learning to feel, or letting your rod do its job.
Josh Smith reply :
QuoteEver watch a bass attack a crawfish?
The second that crawfish flips its tail leaving the bottom bam! Its go bass all over it!
Yes, Sir, that's why I do it! ?
Josh
Catt reply :
On 5/6/2016 at 12:02 AM, Josh Smith said:
Yes, Sir, that's why I do it! ?
Josh
When a crawfish feel threatened it flip its tail which propels itself forward (well actually backwards), it does this 3-4 times really fast, then stops, & goes into a fighting stance.
This fleeing reaction is irritating to the bass which is why I short stroke a jig or T-rig off the bottom.
When casting a jig or T-rig two ways of moving them that are highly productive are stroking (hopping) or dragging.
Best ways to learn feeling a jig/t-rig bite is to fish em & fish em at night!
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