First time I have fished it today. I guess I hit a rock or something. Will this affect the lures performance?
yes, water will seep in and it will break very soon.
How about a thin layer of super glue over it.
On 5/11/2015 at 7:54 AM, Alrab23 said:How about a thin layer of super glue over it.
You never know so might as well try it! I have cracked a few accidentally smashing them on a tree or the boat during a cast...
I think I would dry it and use pvc cement [plumbing glue] should hold.
That will most definitely be impacted for future use. It will likely fill with water and that will slow the action and make it sink (though it will cast a mile). You could probably patch it with rubber cement or,better yet, the pvc/plumbers glue that was already mentioned. just make sure it is empty and dry first.
Solution:
LiveTarget Blue Gill Squarebill crank bait.
On 5/11/2015 at 9:39 AM, Khan of the Res said:Solution:
LiveTarget Blue Gill Squarebill crank bait.
I already have a live target blue gill SB. Can't ever have to many baits! I will try the plumbers cement. Thanks guys.
Plumbers glue wont last. Just get some 5 minute epoxy at a local automotive store. Make sure you mix it by the instructions. Brush on with a cheap brush and hang it by the line tie overnight. Make sure it dries clear(it will say on the package).
Is that a Bagley? As in balsa..
X2 With CJ , On The 2 Part Epoxy ,
Word Of Caution , Once You Mix The 5 Min Epoxy , You Will Only Have About A Full Minute Before It Starts To Set.
My 2 Cents , I'd Go With The Devcon 30 Min Epoxy , This Will Give You A 5 Min Work Time.
If Your Not 100% Sure What To Do , Send It To Me and I'll Re-Clear Coat The Entire Bait and Ship Back To You.
Mike
On 5/11/2015 at 10:45 AM, Alonerankin2 said:Is that a Bagley? As in balsa..
Yes it's a bagley.
The paint can be touched up, ( sealed ) you don't need a 2 part epoxy or anything heavy.. You just want to fill that cracked paint in a bit with a clear coat.. Fingernail polish is cheap & effective. It will prevent the balsa from soaking in moisture.
On 5/11/2015 at 10:53 AM, Crank Bait Nut said:X2 With CJ , On The 2 Part Epoxy ,
Word Of Caution , Once You Mix The 5 Min Epoxy , You Will Only Have About A Full Minute Before It Starts To Set.
My 2 Cents , I'd Go With The Devcon 30 Min Epoxy , This Will Give You A 5 Min Work Time.
Mike
Good call. I think VersaChem is the same as Devon. Anyway, it's 2 Ton Clear Weld Epoxy. It shows 30 minute set time. I think it's a must for every serious bass angler. I've fixed crank baits, rods, etc. with it. The 30 minute used to not be availible in my neck of the woods. Found some earlier this year.
Looks like a balsa crank that the topcoat and paint just got busted. I would coat the whole lure after removing the hooks and o-rings and avoid the lip. I would also start with a good bit right on the crank then brush in the whole bait. It will level itself while you hang it. some will drip to the end. Just take a razor and cut excess off the back eyelet.
On 5/11/2015 at 11:06 AM, Alonerankin2 said:The paint can be touched up, ( sealed ) you don't need a 2 part epoxy or anything heavy.. You just want to fill that cracked paint in a bit with a clear coat.. Fingernail polish is cheap & effective. It will prevent the balsa from soaking in moisture.
I hate to dispute but clear nail polish won't hold up on a contact crank. Ask any experienced custom crank maker.
On 5/11/2015 at 11:12 AM, CJ said:I hate to dispute but clear nail polish won't hold up on a contact crank. Ask any experienced custom crank maker.
Hmm, I know it won't live long, but honestly, I will throw them ( any wood bait ) with a fracture and never stress about it. I usually destroy them first before they even get close to being water logged. But, that's just me. I agree though, if one wants to do a proper repair, there are better methods. Of course, the bait would likley be fine with out a repair.
X2On 5/11/2015 at 7:36 AM, bigturtle said:yes, water will seep in and it will break very soon.
This might be a dumb point/question but should the performance really be the concern? I'm not sure how deep the crack is, and I'm not familiar with the construction of the cranks, but with a crack that large my concern would be hooking a large fish and breaking the lure completely, thus losing the fish. Not sure if that makes sense.
- Dale
On 5/11/2015 at 11:36 AM, HardcoreBassin said:This might be a dumb point/question but should the performance really be the concern? I'm not sure how deep the crack is, and I'm not familiar with the construction of the cranks, but with a crack that large my concern would be hooking a large fish and breaking the lure completely, thus losing the fish. Not sure if that makes sense.
- Dale
Dale, good question. Most balsa or well built balsa cranks have a harness wired through system. Some are just screw in eyelets some are wired through to the line tie as in the old Shad Raps(had a drum rip an old shad rap and seen how they were made)and glue in lips. The DTseries as of late are just glued in lips and I've lost a few fish due to this. I've relied on more molded cranks since. Where this crank has been damage there is no concern IMO, unless Bagley's has taken the cheaper route. I really don't know. I would just chuck this crank in the box for a winter time project unless it was one of those "fish catchers" then I still would worry that any repair would change the action.
Yes water will fill it up and eventually it will not float
If it were me, I'd spend $5 and just buy another one. Lures crack/break all the time. It's just part of fishing.
If The Bait Is Cleared With The 2 Part Epoxy , There Should Be No Issues.
From looking At The Pic , That Cracked Balsa Appears To Be Damaged Were The Paint Has Cracked and Separated From the Wood. Should Be A Easy Fix.
I Would Not Go With Anything Else Other Than The 2 Part Epoxy.
Again My 2 Cents
Mike
I'd just buy a new bait.
5 minute epoxy will work BUT it will turn ugly brown pretty quick after exposure to sunlight. 30 minute epoxy will not. Just as a stop-gap measure, a little clear fingernail polish on the crack is OK. likewise, superglue is also a quick fix. Looking at the width of the crack, the lure may have already begun absorbing water. Also, the crack originates at the lip. This most often happens when guys slap weeds off the hooks of a balsa bait. Balsa cannot take that kind of abuse, so never do it.
On 5/11/2015 at 11:06 AM, Alonerankin2 said:The paint can be touched up, ( sealed ) you don't need a 2 part epoxy or anything heavy.. You just want to fill that cracked paint in a bit with a clear coat.. Fingernail polish is cheap & effective. It will prevent the balsa from soaking in moisture.
X2 i have cracked them before and used fingernail hardener and it worked great but have never used it on a plastic bait just balsa
That almost looks like plastic but it is balsa and based on that I'm going to say it is done, forget fixing it. The reason is that even glued, that balsa is going to split again and it will probably happen with a nice fish on and you'll lose it to the crank. I know from seeing a guy in our club trying to glue the bill back in place on a Rapala DT crank, he slapped it off the water to get weeds off and he did it one time too many and the entire front of the bait cane off. Eh used wood glue along with Devcon 2 ton epoxy over top and he let it cure for a week, it took 4 cast for it to fly apart again, so rather than chance it and put all that work into it, just put it in a collector case for retired lures and get a new one.
Got the same model in one of those monthly tackle boxes and it did the same thing as I was running it over a sand flat. Just toss it and get another one. The added weight from the glue may cause it to run differently
That bait can be repaired and will last you a long time if done correctly. If you really like the bait then go to the trouble and get it repaired properly. It's not that difficult and I can walk you thru the process. Send me a PM and we can talk about the
step by step instructions. If you don't feel comfortable with the repair then I will do it for you. A good balsa crank is worth the time and effort to save.