Carolina Rig Tips 2024

Nick_Barr reply :

Where i live, We will have to go deeper than usual to find our summer fish and i dont fish a c-rig often and need to learn it a little better. If anybody has any tips they would be greatly appreciated.

ball_coach_1 reply :

I like Carolina riggin' a BUNCH. Back home, that is the way to catch the fish this time of year. Up in NE Ohio, I think the fish made it illegal and stay in the skinny water most of the time.

You can look at some articles here on this site that will be a lot more detailed than me, and I will keep from typing all night. Basically, main line, sinker (egg sinker is my preference), bead(s), swivel, liter, hook. In that order, top to the bottom. I prefer a braid with a flourocarbon liter. Play with the liter length...short as 12 inches, and maybe up to 3+feet. I would guess the average is around 18".

Depends on the water you are fishing....over a grassline, etc. Use your electronics, attempt to find summer haunts....drag main and secondary lake points, around or over grass beds, humps and ledges, or even fish it is skinny water near deeper water.

What do you put on the hook??? That is my biggest issue fishing a c-rig. Finding what the fish want ONCE I find them. My ol' reliable is a lizard, but worm, finesse worms, fries and 'pedes, flukes, senkos, creature baits and tubes. Take your pick.

Occasionally, haven't done it up here, but one lake in Northern KY, a c-rigged Rapala or floating crank almost always got a bite this time of year. One problem...money. Good way to catch fish if you know you have a good chance at losing some.

Hope this helps...again, I would go to read some articles to find some detailed help...hope this gets ya started. Good fishin'.

Brad_Coovert reply :

Nick, the Crig is a great summer bass catcher. In fact, I have one tied on all year as it works shallow and deep in any water temp. You can cover a lot of water quickly and the heavy weight also lets you learn a lot about the bottom also.

Any type of structure such as drops, channels, long points, flats, ledges, humps, etc. are all great places for the Crig.

Basic set-up is a long, MH or heavy action rod. Your 7' CD will work fine, but if you can get one, a 7'6" BI or a 7'6" BA will be better. I use 15 lb. line for my Crig with a 15 lb. leader. Some people use a lighter leader in case they snag just the hook, that way they save the weight and bead, but I have not noticed any more loss in weights using the same weight line for my leader.

My rig is usually a 3/4 oz. black brass weight, a brass ticker, a glass bead, a plastic bead with a large hole to protect the knot and then a swivel. Next is the leader, usually around 2'-3' then the hook, usually an EWG that fits the plastic I am using and the hook is always skin hooked.

For baits, I like Senkos, Beavers, Brush Hogs, lizards and Ring Frys. About any plastis will work.

As for working the bait, I cast it out, let it hit bottom and wait a second, move the bait feeling for a fish, let it sit, shake it a few times and repeat. Bites can be subtle or the fish may try to pull you out of the boat. Using the bait and catching fish on it is the only thing that is gonna really teach you this rig.

Hope this helps.

BTW Nick - I'll be seeing Brent next week. Any thing you want me to ask him?

Brad

Nick_Barr reply :

Just see if he can lower the price on the team stickers, $3 each, i dont have enough money to buy many more stickers. I have too much stuff that deserves to have an ESOX Rods Sticker on it.

Sweetwater reply :

i generally fish a crig in deep(8 feet and deeper) water for bigger bass. I generally target main lake structure such as humps, points, and channels with the crig.

My c-rig is always weighted by a 3/4 to 1 ounce sinker, unpegged. If i have to fish a pegged weight, i'll go texas rig, split shot, or weightless trick worm. The heavy weight allows better feel of the bottom. Letting it slide freely allows a more natural presentation, and allows the bass to feel no resistance when they pick up the bait, which lets them hold on to it longer. I can also heave the heavy rig a long distance.

With this rig, the following are key points:

1 The single most important thing to remember is; slow down if not catching fish. When you bump something, stop. Don't be afraid to let the bait sit still. Many times I have caught bass after picking out a backlash.

2. Line watching and feel are the two skills most important to c-rigging. If you've ever bottom fished live bait on the bottom for cats, shellcrackers, etc. you've had some experience at line watching.

Over time, you'll develop a feel for how the line should look and feel normally while dragging the rig. Most of the time, bites are detected by seeing the line move in an unnatural direction. It'll move to one side or the other, or get tighter/looser, on it's own.

Learning to detect bites by pure feel takes more time to develop. My crig rod is a cheap 7' bps graphite rod, i use pline, but I usually feel the bass taking the bait because I've fished a crig for 20 odd years. Always keep a thumb on the spool. When letting the bait sit, take some line in your fingers. Maintain proper line tension, always having loose contact with the bait.

3. Line tension. In order to have proper feel, one must maintain contact with the bait. However, too much tension can cause fish to drop baits early, and also takes away from the natural movement of the plastic bait. Always try to keep a nice bow in the line.

Generally, leader length is dictated by water conditions and cover present. Clear, open water calls for a longer leader. Stained water with cover calls for shorter leader.

The easiest piece of the puzzle is bait color /type. On larger lakes, the hot plastic is usually well known. But in general, darker colors like junebug, red shad, black, in larger sizes, in vibrating shapes like lizards and twist tail worms for deeper, stained water. Natural colors like watermelon seed, in smaller sizes in straight shapes that produce less vibration(Senko, finese worm, trick worm) for clear, well lit water.

Rattlinrogue reply :

That's some good stuff,guys! I gotta get with the program on the C-rig.I have a question.When setting the hook is it similar to the way you do it with a T-rig or is it more of a sweeping motion?

shiloh reply :

What are the pros and cons of a C-rig vs,

1) split shot rig

2) drop shot rig

bassinchik reply :

I am "Rogue's" wife, and we fish often. I love fishing soft bait, but using the C-rig just feels awkward to me....my problem is in casting. It seems to have a "slingshot" feel to it, and I am having troubles getting the rhythm of a smooth cast. Guess I just need to cast it more often and just get used to it. Lately, I have been using spinners and allowing them to drop before retrieving to get my depth instead of using the C-rig. I fish water that is usually 4-9 ft. and the fish are showing up about halfway down, so I am trying to get SOME depth, but not scraping the bottom. I am having some luck with spinners, but of course I want to use worms and lizards. Any helpful hits on casting the C-rig?

Sweetwater reply :

Bassinchick.......

The c-rig can be difficult to cast. In general; The lighter the sinker, the longer the leader, the harder the c-rig is to cast.

Some tips:

1. Use a 3/4 ounce sinker minimum. If left unpegged, the fish won't feel the heavier weight. Casting is easier,and feel is improved.

2. At mimimum, use a 7' MH rod.

3. Be smooth during the entire casting motion. I usually pause for just a second at the end of my backswing before starting forward motion.

It takes time to get the feel right for casting the c-rig. Like everything else, practice makes perfect.

Rouge....

Most of the time, I reel down to the fish and it hangs

itself. But use a smooth sweep.

Brad_Coovert reply :

shiloh

The split shot rig is nothing more than a mini Crig. Great for smaller weights, baits and light line. One thing I have noticed with a split shot rig is the light weight forces you to slow down which is a good thing for pressured fish.

The drop shot is just another method for fishing a plastic bait. You can use it in all the same places as Crig, but with the drop shot, you can work a bait in place much longer.

Brad

spotaholic reply :

In the summer time I really like to fish a senko or a zoom fish doctor on the c-rig. It is al ittle different than the normal worm,lizard or crawfish. I also like to pump instead of drag it. One more tactic instead of fishing deep to shallow switch it up and put your boat inside edge and throw to the deeper water. Everyone else is presenting the bait the other way and it gives the fish a different look. On pressured water this is deadly. I will also c-rig on a spinning rod with light weight and finesse worm and throw it right to the waters edge and slow swim it back. Hold onto the rod because you might get your arm ripped off. It's all about doing something alittle differnt.

Sweetwater reply :

shiloh:

I fish a C-rig on heavier tackle in less visible water, where the fish prefer a larger bait that produces vibration,like a zoom magnum lizard or old monster.

When targeting bass(Usually spots) in clearer water using smaller, quieter, baits, I use a drop shot or split shot.

Rattlinrogue reply :

Thanks for the help,guys.

shiloh reply :

I would also think that the drop shot rig would be more sensitive than the c-rig, since you don't have the weight between you and the bait...yes?

abelfisher reply :

One of the better threads I've read in a while regarding tactics. Good job guys! Very useful info for me!

Sweetwater reply :

Shiloh....

In theory, a dropshot rig should be more sensitive than a carolina rig, but I've not fished a drop shot rig enough to say.

I will say this about sensitivity in a c-rig....

My c-rig outfit,which also doubles as my jig/pig rig, jigging spoon rig, and sometime striper-catfish live bait rig, is an 8 year old mega cast low profile on the cheapest bps graphite rod in 7' mh. It is the first baitcaster I ever owned,and cost $30 new. It is spooled with pline.

The sensitivity in my rig is more than good enough for crigging. Most times fish take the bait, I feel it. Reading the bottom is not a problem.

The keys to sensitivity in a crig are: Rigging and proper technique.

Rigging:

I use a crig when targeting open water structure 6 feet and deeper where cover is scattered or absent, or in deep weeds. A big weight is no issue for my crigging, so I throw a 1 ounce sinker 98% of the time. The heavier the weight,the better the feel and ability to work the line.

Use brass or tungsten.

The rig must consist of unpegged weight-plastic bead-clacker-swivel-leader to maximize feel. I fished a lead weight for years before finally trying brass, which amplifies vibration from the line like guitar pickups do. I use a plastic bead instead of glass because I feel it transmits more vibration than glass.

Technique:

Proper line tension when working the bait is crucial to sensitivity and strike detection.

A small bow must be kept in the line at all times, but particularly on the fall, when most strikes occur. This allows a fish to take the bait without feeling any weight or rod. The weight of the bow keeps the main line in contact with the inside of the brass, maximizing vibration transmitted up the line.

Also, I always keep a thumb on the spool and a finger on the blank. If I get a tap that I'm unsure about; I'll lower the rod tip some and take some line in my off hand fingers,still keeping the bow in the line. Many times I can feel a fish that took the bait and hasn't moved.

roadwarrior reply :

Wow!

I nominate this as our #1 Thread.

Everything you need to know and the how to, also.

Excellent.

Muddpuppy reply :

I'll second that. That was a good read, I learned a couple of things I am going to try to do differently now.

Rattlinrogue reply :

I've now been using the c-rig for several months,and it has become one of my favorite ways to fish.One piece of advice that I can give has to do with fishing a c-rig in cold water.I've noticed that I get a lot more bites in cold water when I use a plastic that has a more subtle movement.When it's hot,I like a lizard with curly arms,legs,and tail.In cold water,I'm catching more bass on a 6" finese worm.Any plastic with the subtle movement should work(such as a senko type bait).I'm thinking the more subtle movement is percieved by the bass as a slower meal that they might catch easier with less effort.

abelfisher reply :

Quote
I've now been using the c-rig for several months,and it has become one of my favorite ways to fish.One piece of advice that I can give has to do with fishing a c-rig in cold water.I've noticed that I get a lot more bites in cold water when I use a plastic that has a more subtle movement.When it's hot,I like a lizard with curly arms,legs,and tail.In cold water,I'm catching more bass on a 6" finese worm.Any plastic with the subtle movement should work(such as a senko type bait).I'm thinking the more subtle movement is percieved by the bass as a slower meal that they might catch easier with less effort.

Great Idea, RR! I think you might be onto something here. I have been using lizards on my c-rig 100% of the time. But it is getting much cooler here, and I should probably change up my bait. Thanks for the tip. I am going to try tomorrow.

fisherman_54 reply :

i dont crig a lot. i use a 7'6 daiwa on a quantum iron inshore baitcaster. the baitcaster is made for 200 yrds of 20 i believe and im trying to decide on whether to use braid or stick with mono?

Rattlinrogue reply :

Fisherman 54,I'm using 20 lb Yo-Zuri as my main line and 10 lb Berkley Sensation as my leader.I've been having pretty good results.

BIGG D reply :

in winter time,, i prefer to use centapede or french fry( 4 in) it seem to work well for me..

ARCHER reply :

Great stuff....

Thanks to all of you.

Archer

flyhatch reply :

Quote
I am "Rogue's" wife, and we fish often. I love fishing soft bait, but using the C-rig just feels awkward to me....my problem is in casting. It seems to have a "slingshot" feel to it, and I am having troubles getting the rhythm of a smooth cast. Guess I just need to cast it more often and just get used to it. Lately, I have been using spinners and allowing them to drop before retrieving to get my depth instead of using the C-rig. I fish water that is usually 4-9 ft. and the fish are showing up about halfway down, so I am trying to get SOME depth, but not scraping the bottom. I am having some luck with spinners, but of course I want to use worms and lizards. Any helpful hits on casting the C-rig?

if found that if i focus on the heavy sinker and not the end of the line for casting that i get smoother longer casts

hope that helps

ARCHER reply :

Thanks again everyone,

I have just started fishing crigs recently (last 2 years), and my performance has been dreadful, to say the least. This information has helped me alot.

Many of you state that maintaining the bow in the line is critical. I presume you will actually see most of your strikes this way. Thats one thing I'm doing wrong, I guess. I've been tring to stay a little tight so as to feel the strikes.

I've been running about a 14lb mono leader, Maybe I'll lighten up a bit, for sensitivity sake.

I generally fish lizards with this rig, but I struggle with making the right bait changes for the conditions at hand, when lizards don't produce. This year I'll try some smaller baits, and go more subtle, senko, creature baits etc. Are tubes effective on a crig?

LAURASDAD reply :

A guide turned me onto a Carolina Keeper. You avoid using a swivel and 3 knots. It is basically a round piece of hard plastic you thread on your line. When you squeeze it with pliers, it opens enough to slide it up/down your line. You put your weight above the keeper.

It allows for real easy changing of leader lengths. If you fish in heavy cover/structure, use 2. Bass pro has them.

http://www.basspro.com/servlet/catalog.TextId?hvarTextId=23166&hvarTarget=search&cmCat=SearchResults

this is the link for the product on bass pro's web site.

good luck

Larry

dachtor reply :

Something that happened 3 times today.......I broke 20 pound braid above the weight. I would feel..... tap, tap, weight......... set the hook.....only to see slack line and no more lure. Each time I was pretty sure there was a fish on the other end.

Any idea why this is happening? Is it actually a fish taking the lure and heading for structure but when I set the hook the line rubs up against a rock and breaks? I couldn't figure it out.

Should I try a different type of line (other than braid), a different brand of line or should I go up in lbs to a 30, 40, etc.? Also, anyone use high vis line like Fireline so that they can visually detect strikes easier?

PS - great posts, I've learned a lot already. I think I'm setting the hook too hard vs. a sweeping motion.

Landinlunkers reply :

Hey fellow bassers,

I'm new here. Great post! Lots of useful info. Just want to share a tip that I picked up a few years ago that works well for me. My number one choice for the c-rig is a frch fry. The thing that I do differently is that I rig the bait on it's side....hooked through the fatter side of the bait. When it's rigged that way, it displaces more water allowing it to float better.

guest reply :

Hooksetting is different between C-rig and drop-shot. With a C-rig a low side sweep is better so as not having to lift the sinker first. You want as little angle in the main line & leader as possible so as to deliver most of the snap into the hook instead of sharing power to lift the sinker. A drop shot is much more sensitive, requiring an upward slow pull on hookset, often best mostly just reeling it in, using thinner wire, smaller hook that doesn't need a lot of power to drive a hook home.

Jim

hipster_dufus reply :

ok after the cast how do u work the c-rig?

redboat reply :

Great posts, lotsa information about crigs - thanks!

Interesting story about crigs - I attended one of Bass Pro's bass schools Feb before last. In one session the pro (Shaw Grigsby?) asked everyone to raise their hand if they'd ever fished a crig. Almost everyone's hand went up - about 200 people in the room.

He then asked, "Ok, how many of you have actually caught anything using a crig?" I counted the hands - 20 out of 200.

Hula Popper reply :

Yeah, thanks. The information has helped a ton. I'll try it next time I fish.

V BOTTEM reply :

thats GOOD info thanks

tbird reply :

One important thing I have found that has helped me tremendously with my crig is using flourocarbon line. It will give you the extra feel you need and has helped me with more hookups. Pline is my favorite flourocarbon it seems to be much more limp and manageable than Vanish or some of the others and at a reaonable price.

ice0329 reply :

I dont like it but I do use it and when I do I usually catch fish. I use a long rod normally the one I throw my spinnerbaits with it has 30 pound spider wire on it. I put a glass bead then about a 3/4 oz egg sinker then a bigger glass bead then a swivel on the other side of the swivel I go with 10 or 14 pound low-vis green mono with a 2/0 lightwire hook on which goes a lizard. I have probly 20 differnt colors bit reach for 3 or 4 differnt colors. pump/chart, pump/fire, mossy something, and cotton candy both are kinda dark were the pumpkins are lighter. I dont try to brain storm thing with this type of fishing because I have caught my biggest c-rig fish were I didnt think there was fish or I was off the line. The big ones didnt get big by doing what everyone else does. Basically throw that thing as far as you can and bump everything you can and feel for that bite and with the spider wire your gonna feel it. G/L

guest reply :

I can't imagine not C-rigging when bass are slow or not feeding and on or very near bottom. I began with lead sinkers, but the quartz in our rocks and grit here causes the hole edges to get jagged tears that weaken and slice line, so I moved to steel egg sinkers about 10 years ago. They remain smooth edged, but require special care to prevent rusting. Steel really telegraphs bottom up the line, tungsten just like it. Now I have some tungsten and bismuth sinkers that I like better than steel and lead, but they cost $3 and up, and I'm careful about where I fish those. Brass seems a little to light for its size compare to those. The tungsten works like steel but is much smaller in size ounce for ounce.

I use mostly 30# braid for a main line tied to a 20# Vanish leader. If the hook snags I want that sinker back. The long casting distances allow mono to stretch too much and it doesn't telegraph vibrations well enough compare to the other lines. With so much line out any stretch requires several extra feet of rod swing to set a hook. Leader length is simply depth of cover plus 6-18" so the lure will work above the cover. If that takes more than 3 feet I go to a drop shot rig and fish vertically in deep water, at an angle in shallow water. Casting a rig any longer than 3 feet long is quite a task, rod not laying far enough back for a power cast.

Rod is a BB Brothers MH 7'6" or a heavy power rod, same length, with fast tip perfect for lobbing a heavy rig. I lay the rod back behind me and start a swing of it back to me, then when it begins swinging away I give the rod a heave with both hands. Getting that back swing right prevents the rig from tumbling end over end in flight. It'll sail farther than any lure except maybe a heavy spoon. Any whipping action in the rod tip can ruin the rod, snap it, and cost distance, while the same action is needed for light lures.

My go-to bait is a large tube with styrofoam tubing stuffed inside to make it float. Feeding the rig some slack line lets it rise, then I hand stitch the line to make it go back down, ofteh yo-yoing it in place. That works if on a hard bottom, but not when the sinker is in mud. Occasionally I'll put a piece of Alka Seltzer in the tube. Bubbles stream out the nose around the hook shank. Lizards, brush hogs, anything like those work, especially 3X floating baits. when using a floating hard minnow bait like a shallow running Rapala minnow I wrap some solder around the tail hook shank to make it float level. When I move the rig to me I might travel it a foot, maybe 3 feet, but tend to leave it out there 10 minutes between casts if I know bass are present, but speed it up to a foot every 5 seconds as a search bait. I run thhose two speeds for all baits used on a C-rig.

Hook setting is hard on glass beads so I stopped using them, often shattering when striking metal. I use a newer black composite bead now, then a colored plastic bead past that one. I use high quality barrel swivels, the very part I consider often the weakest link for most C-riggers. I use a size way larger than most, but they never break.

My favorite target is any creek channel bend that traps brush washed down lake. I want it to crawl along the ledge of the channel, as close to brush piles as I can get it, at whatever depth sonar puts fish. Second choice is fishing it down the middle of a small channel. I'll work it around the base or a particular elevation of a deep hump or ridge holding bass at that depth, which can be 40 feet down in winter here, and down to 20-30 feet in summer before a thermocline sets up to create a death zone below it.

Jim

jbass reply :

I'm new here so I thought I'd jump right into the fray. I love fishing with carolina rigs. Spring, summer, fall, winter anytime of the year. I use a 3/4 to 1 oz. egg sinker with a glass bead and a larger plastic bead to protect the knot on the swivel. 15 lb Stren High impact for the reel line and 12 lb florocarbon as the 2 1/2 foot to 3 foot leader. I use anything from 4" tubes to brush hogs. I fish points, drop offs and pretty much anything that will hold fish and any where from 2 feet of water to 30 feet. It is a great way to pick up fish. On thing I don't do is try to make the bait hop. I just drag it really slowly the way a crawfish may move on the bottom, but on occasion I'll give it a good yank, like the bait is trying to escape and largemouth and smallmouth alike will kill it. It works for me and I hope you may give my methods a try.

VaBass80 reply :

Another tip when c-rigging depending on which plastic you use I do think hook selection is pretty important. Like ppl use real large hooks like 4/0 or 5/0 when c-rigging a worm, I've had better success since changing to a lighter wire hook for thin worms, I feel it gives better action. I try to use the smallest hook i can get away with, seems the bait has better action.

Someone asked in a previous post how to work the c-rig, best way is to cast out, then make a sweeping motion with the rod then reeling up the slack and repeat. I like to change up the speed, sweep fast then sweep real slow and so on.

tuxdaddy reply :

One question for the c-riggers here....

How many beads do you used for your rig, just 1 or 2??

Tux

guest reply :

One bead is needed to protect the swivel knot from the sinker. It's REALLY needed using tungsten sinkers, as they can cut a knot the first time hit. I use a plastic bead because I've have a few glass beads shatter and cut the line, I think anyway. One egg sinker had a piece of glass inside once which certainly could have cut the line, so I decided not to risk that happening again.

I've had bass bite sinkers so usually I don't want noise from a sinker slapping a bead anyway, but sometimes in low visibility water a little noise helps bass find the bait. I don't worry about that using a Rapala Original minnow as those make their own noises from hooks slapping the sides.

But sometimes a worm needs a little help calling bass over. In that case I use brass beads, but they are hard to find with a hole large enough to cover a knot. I finally found a bag of them at a craft/hobby supply store, about $2 for 100 beads. That'll last me a long time even stacking several beads on the main line so beads slap beads as well as sinker.

In my opinion you need a sinker other than lead for any significant noise. Or maybe my hearing is worse than my wife says it is, not hearing hardly anything with any bead except glass against lead. Against tungsten there's no doubt fish will hear it. There's no rule saying you can't use a string of beads. But the more noise you make that way, the more likely a bass will go after the beads instead of the worm. Have a good reason for making a riot in the mud!

Jim

Rebbasser reply :

Might as well throw in my $.02. I use a 7' Falcon Low Rider Carolina Lizard Dragger rod and a BPS Extreme reel. For line I use 50 lb PowerPro with a 17 lb Flourocarbon leader. I use one of 2 weights: Either 2 Tungsten sinkers-no bead needed since the tungsten click together just fine, or in rocky terrain a Lindy Rattlin' No-Snag sinker. It's bananna shaped and won't han up in the rocks. Baits-I've used just about every soft plastic there is. For the most part I do not like the 3X baits because they get so sticky, but a 3X fry or fluke works great.

tuxdaddy reply :

One other thing....

Are you all shaking your rigs to make the "clicks", or just letting it bump and slide along to make it the sounds??

I've been working it both ways and it seems that my shaking attracted more pick ups...

What's your input on this??

VAbacklash reply :

I'm new to this site and it has to be the best I've found! Been fishing the C Rig for a long time with good results. It has produced some quality sized largemouths for me for the last ten years or so. I use 17 lbs. test Stren on a 5500C reel with a 14 lbs. test leader about 36 inches long. I use a 3.0 Owner hook at one end and a bass snap on the other. As for weight, I make up my own rig using 3/4 ounce brass weight, glass beads and stainless plastic coated cable. It's similar to a rig sold by Wally World, but I think better. They last forever. As for plastics, I tend to stick to lizzards, craws and 4 inch. French Fry. My rod is about as sensitive as a broomstick. In C Rig fishing, I kinda feel that the rod is just something to hold the reel. I've never been much of a finesse type fisherman.

I would like to hear from anyone that has tried using any type of crankbaits with a C Rig. I'm thinking about buying a few small floating Rapalas and trying them. Before I start throwing $4.00 baits I would like to know if anyone has had any sucess with it.

Great fishing to all !!

guest reply :

I really like using hard minnow baits like those on a C-rig. In the kitchen sink anchor it by the nose under water. Notice the tail end hangs up unnaturally. Adjust it so it stays horizontal like a fish usually rests, using SuspenDots or Strips on the tail end. Fish it at or slightly above depth of bass. Use a swivel on the leader set to prevent the minnow from swimming too low to the bottom. When you reel it in one step you want the bait diving no deepe than vegettion or wood on bottom. You can let any floating crankbait out to float all the way to the surface. I've even fished topwater baits on a C-rig, making them dive almost to the bottom. Some have very interesting wide wobbles you don't see in diving baits. It's a sight probably no bass you are after has seen. I have one clear topwater bait with two halves screwed together, hollow inside. Sometimes I use that one where it's safe (only have one left). if available I'll fill it with tadpoles or tiny minnows, swimming inside it or maybe crickets, an extra attraction for bass. I'll tease it on the surface, then draw it back towarsd the sinker on bottom, drag it a ways, stop it so they can see the thing really good. After suspending it a moment I might jerk it back down, or let it float back up slowly. I really wish I could find more of those, brand and model forgotten.

Jim

briansoupy reply :

i actually prefer rattle chambers over the beads but im sure they both work

fireandice reply :

Buoyancy??

I can't see how a Senko will float up on a c-rig, when it sinks if I fish it weightless t-rigged. Have any of you ever checked to see just where the different types/brands of soft plastics float at? I'm guessing that a lot of these soft plastics are probably sinking to the bottom with a 3/0 or 4/0 hook in them. Maybe that's why we have such poor luck with this rig most of the time. I've personally never caught anything on one, but I'm probably retrieving too fast among other things. Also my partner I'm used to fishing with, likes to run the trolling motor all the time and never stop or slow down much. Makes c-rigging more like trolling along the bottom most of the time. :

scott000 reply :

so i know monofilamint gets weak and thats what i tie my rigs with. what should i do? get a new type of line?

fishbear reply :

I have one question. Has anyone used the C rig floats that BPS sells???? It is a bullet shaped float that you slide on your line above your hook. It is supposed to help float your bait above grass, etc.... I was just wondering if anyone had tried them or if they are a novelty that is not worth the effort.

Ky_Lake_Dude reply :

If you want to catch bigger fish but not as many use something like a 6 inch lizard or 10 inch worm.If you want to catch more but smaller fish use something lie a 4 inch worm or something.

wormfishin reply :

Great stuff..

This is the best site I've found for info. good job..

I started using the C rig last year but I have been using A small bullet

weight 1/4 oz or 1/2 oz and I use tubes most of the time.

This works well for me when the bite is slow.

I do go 3/4 or 1 oz in water over 15 ft.

gloomis7 reply :

What a great thread! This was very informative for me, someone who has been skeptical about trying the C-rig. After reading all of this I definitly will give it a shot. I do have one question I don't think has been asked yet..When searching for a good spot to throw a c-rig is having a really good graph important? I have an older boat and I haven't updated my electronics. They work but I have a hard time finding slopes and humps and dropoff's. Is there something I'm just not seeing when I'm trying to read my graph? :-?

manny reply :

I rarely fish a carolina rig so i'm no expert, but i didn't hear any mention of the berkley beast? does anyone ever use this bait on a carolina rig?

dukeintex reply :

I'm new here, so if this has been covered elsewhere, please let me know.

Do most of you use a different lb test for your leader than you use for your regular line? And if you do, do you use braid, fluoro, or mono?

Thanks

flechero reply :

Quote
Hi
I'm new here, so if this has been covered elsewhere, please let me know.

Do most of you use a different lb test for your leader than you use for your regular line? And if you do, do you use braid, fluoro, or mono?

Thanks

Duke,

Welcome to BassResource.com!

In answer to the question: most times I (and I think it's safe to say most people) use a lighter leader than mainline. I like a heavy mainline because I fish it in both timber and rocky areas. The leader can be changed frequently based on water conditions. (clearer water gets a lighter or fluoro leader) As an example, right now I have 17# XT as a mainline (which is like 20# or 25# in other brands) but I use a 12# or 14# leader most of the time. If I were fishing in water that was more stained or in heavier cover I wouldn't hesitate to use a heavier leader... but if I was expecting to need a leader that heavy I would spool up a heavier mainline before I went.

I use mostly mono as leader... if I fish real clear water I'll use fluoro or a blend.

Shadcranker reply :

The Rig is my # 1 confidence bait from Spring through late Summer. it's a great way to cover water, feel what's on the bottom, but still offer a fairly finesse type of bait.

A couple of tips:

1. Go with a lighter weight if you're hanging up in rocks. If I'm fishing chunk rock in 12 ft or less, I will use a 1/2 oz weight. The lighter weight seems not to hang up as badly.

2. Use an offset, wide gap hook. My missed fish went way down by using it.

3. Use a shorter leader than most use. I usually go with 12-18". This reduces the amount of line you have to move to set the hook.

4. To add sensitivity, use braid on the main line and a mono or flouro leader. The braid will transmit the feel of the sinker much better.

5. Use a lizard around the spawn, and then switch to a centipede or worm post spawn. A shad colored centipede is deadly when the fish move out to their summertime spots, especially if they're feeding on shad.

sal669 reply :

EXCELLENT thread!!!

I c-rigged a couple times but I kind'a "set it aside and forgot about it".When I tried it with a baitcaster it was a mess. I switched to a spinning outfit with 20lb power pro ,1/2oz egg sinker, bead, swivel, 3ft leader and gammy egw 2/0 hook with lizard, 6" worm or fluke with some results. I was feeling the bite but when setting the hook, the fish was mostly gone. might this be because I kept the line tight (to feel the bite), with no slack in it ???

I tryed Berkley Gulp 6' worm and I cought more catfish than bass. Did this happend to any of you, guys ???

I'll try c-rigging again later this year, 'cause I can't do it through a couple of inches of ice :-/. And now I have a lot of new stuff to try out.

Thax for all info, Alex

slinging southpaw reply :

Quote
Something that happened 3 times today.......I broke 20 pound braid above the weight. I would feel..... tap, tap, weight......... set the hook.....only to see slack line and no more lure. Each time I was pretty sure there was a fish on the other end.
Any idea why this is happening? Is it actually a fish taking the lure and heading for structure but when I set the hook the line rubs up against a rock and breaks? I couldn't figure it out.

Should I try a different type of line (other than braid), a different brand of line or should I go up in lbs to a 30, 40, etc.? Also, anyone use high vis line like Fireline so that they can visually detect strikes easier?

PS - great posts, I've learned a lot already. I think I'm setting the hook too hard vs. a sweeping motion.

The problem your having with braid is a problem I've seen a lot. Braid simply cuts like paper on rocks. I've had the same problem with 40# Braid and know others that have also. It's perfect for C-rigging on mud, but rock makes the stuff "evaporate". :'(

tuxdaddy reply :

I posted this question in the general bass area but I'll ask here as well...

Anyone ever try c-rigs on rivers?? If so, how did you fare with it, and what'd you have to do different ??

Thanks

Tux

jasone reply :

Electronics are CRUCIAL!!

You can use any good fishfinder. You will also need at least two of the orange buoy markers. Find a ledge or hump on your contour map. Use GPS or line up landmarks from your map to get the general idea. Idle over the rough spot until you find the depth of the upper feature. By that I mean if its a hump, find the hump, a ledge, find the top of it.

Your fishfinder will read steady then all of a sudden the numbers will start falling. It is imperative that you made your buoys ready before then. When the numbers start falling toss one out the side. Coast down from your first buoy and repeat. I try to move at least 50 yards from the first one. You can lay as many as you want but two or three usually does it for me.

Make long casts past the buoys and drag well past them.

As you drag, feel the bottom. If there is nothing but silt there you may be in a less than ideal place. Ideal places have rocks on top and a brushpile either on top or the bottom. When you bump a rock or brush, pause and reel in all slack. You will get a lot of bites when the rig makes contact.

Sorry if all this has been covered. For most people this is just drivel but when you live on a Ledge lake you must know how to do this.

SC bass hack reply :

I have been fishing a crig for about 15 years. Mostly on GA reservoirs and now I live in SC and fish Lake Greenwood. The crig is my favorite way to fish and here are my reasons:

It's generally slow and very relaxing. My friends will cast their baits 10 times to my one, I figure between the two of us we're covering the water.

It is pretty consistent, I feel that if there are bass in the water, I'll catch a couple of them.

You can learn a lake very quickly.

A strike is almost as fun as a topwater strike.

Some are having trouble casting, remember to cast the weight, not the worm/hook. I use a baitcast reel, can't get a spinning rod to cast well with this rig and I also like to control the cast with my thumb.

colttackle reply :

hello..i am a beginner bass fisherman..normally i only use a weightless berkley powerbait/gulp sinking minnow,occasional crankbait, and night fishing a frog jitterbug. I go in my friend's lake its about an acre..but we only go on the shore..can you use the c-rig on shore..and what r some good hints for shoreline crigging..and would the c-rig work well with the berkley powerworm and gulp sinking minnow?

thanks for any help

BassHunter69 reply :

ive fished the c rig many times in my 30 odd years of fishing. i like the 1 oz weight with plactic bead then the double swival from there i use a 3 foot leader minimum with an owner hook.

the plastic baits i prefer are made by strike king one that works great for me is the strike kings pumpkin finesse worm with chartruse tail which works great in stained water for me, in muddy water i like the strike kings black lizard with red flakes, but this also works great in stained water. in clear water i love using the 6 inch pearl shad with silver flakes, another i use is the chartruse frog by strike king. all these baits are indorsed by shaw grigsby i belive. then again i also use the orginal floating worm the pumpkin seed colors great,also i have used the bubble gum floating worm, and the white floating worm.

my rod action is the mh ugly stik with a dawia 1600 which was made in the 90's since that can handle 15 lb line. i tend to use cajun line partcularly the red cast for this tactic, but if i want to go into heavy cover or trees i like the ugly braid. i dont use any line lower then the 14 lb test. ive found the cajun line 14 lb test to be as strong as 20 lb mono in my experince.

BassHunter69 reply :

oh in refering to the 1st post on electronics for bank or peir fishing i use the hummingbird rss 25 smart cast fishfinder. i tend to like the one you attact to your pole rather then the watch .

blackrose55x reply :

How shallow can the water be to successfully use a c-rig? And does clarity of water matter?

BassHunter69 reply :

yes you can use the c rig off the bank as a matter of fact i have many , times done so

Quote
hello..i am a beginner bass fisherman..normally i only use a weightless berkley powerbait/gulp sinking minnow,occasional crankbait, and night fishing a frog jitterbug. I go in my friend's lake its about an acre..but we only go on the shore..can you use the c-rig on shore..and what r some good hints for shoreline crigging..and would the c-rig work well with the berkley powerworm and gulp sinking minnow?
thanks for any help

BassHunter69 reply :

ive caught bass as shallow as 2 feet deep for extreme shallow water i like using the worm or lizard weightless however thats been a bigger producer for me, however i feel the c rig works best in deeper water.

Quote
How shallow can the water be to successfully use a c-rig? And does clarity of water matter?

kybassangler reply :

Quote
A guide turned me onto a Carolina Keeper. You avoid using a swivel and 3 knots. It is basically a round piece of hard plastic you thread on your line. When you squeeze it with pliers, it opens enough to slide it up/down your line. You put your weight above the keeper.
It allows for real easy changing of leader lengths. If you fish in heavy cover/structure, use 2. Bass pro has them.

http://www.basspro.com/servlet/catalog.TextId?hvarTextId=23166&hvarTarget=search&cmCat=SearchResults

this is the link for the product on bass pro's web site.

good luck

Larry

I'll second that on the keeper, I have used it and had success. And if you chew your line up on rocks the only thing you really have to retie is your hook. They are cheap and worth the money. Also check out the bullt floaters at BPS puts a little more action in it.

kybassangler reply :

Quote
ok after the cast how do u work the c-rig?

pull rod tip up and then drop it back down take up the slack. then repeat. experiment with the speed Mr. bass will tell ya what he wants.

Jimzee reply :

Very informative read. One of the best threads that I have read on this site. Thanks to all.

OldAngler reply :

Quote
What are the pros and cons of a C-rig vs,
1) split shot rig

2) drop shot rig

??

A split shot is just a light weight and maybe mini C-rig. If C-Rigs work when the bit is tough, then consider trying a drop shot rig when the bit is impossible. Use hand poured worms.

Drop-shot is a finesse technique but suspends the bait above the bottom and that is a killer presentation. I'm noticed that if you're catching a bunch of little ones on on drop-shot then throw in with a c-rig big bait. Like a Zoom Brush Hog. I love this color by the way: http://rs.***.com/tac/ProductImages/ZBBH-WGO.JPG

smokin_joe reply :

Nick, rigging is one of my favorite things to do ...Here in Ohio in the summertime it is one of the most consistant producing technics I use...Here are some things I have learned and maybe they will help you...7ft. med/heavy baitcasting rod or better...a pretty fast reel 6:2:1 ....use steel or brass weights, you'll get a better feel of the bottom...I always use a brass clacker and atleast and 8mm bead before my weight in that order ...the clacker i dont believe produces much of a difference in strikes, but it sure saves wear and tear on your knot ....now pick a soft plastic any soft plastic lure and a wide gap hook to match ....my favs are 4"zellamanders in tradtional pumpkin/greenpumpkin...6"mossy pumpkin zoom lizards and 4"centepedes ....

now for the tricky part line and leader length ....

I find that the lighter the line i can use the more fish I catch and i use 1/2 oz sinker in 5-10ft of water and 3/4oz in anything over 10 foot...you may need to make adjustments according to cover...same goes with leader line...the length of your leader may need to be shortened depending on whats on the bottom....just like with any technic let the fish tell you how they want it....I find that 15-17lb test monofilament for main line and a 10lb leader line of 12 to 18" in length is my most productive... However...you may need to bump the leader line up if the terrain is rough, as well as going up to 20lb test for your main line....the longer your leader line is the slower your lure moves, the shorter it is the faster it moves...the idea is to make a lil chase scene ...try to keep contact with the bottom or the cover at all times with the sinker ...dragging it straight toward you much like you would a texas rigged worm...watch your line just like with jig and worm fishing ...sometimes they grab the sinker lol..when that happens try to finish the cast letting your lure settle back down in the same general area of the strike....This is a great follow up bait for deep diving crankbaits when you have one come loose on you and an awesome "dog days of summer" bait....Many days i have had a fish come off on a crank bait and followed it up with the rig, never to pick the crank bait up again for the rest of the day....I throw it it anywhere and everywhere I wud throw a crank bait that dives 5 feet or better ...hope this helps and I truly hope you catch a lot of good ones with it...It takes a time or 2 to get used to it , but once you do it is something that you will always want to have tied on best wishes

BackOnTheWater reply :

I use a Crig all year and in any depth, but prefer the Trig for beating shallow-water banks. I've been using them for over 20 years.

I have tried everything. Different weights (type and weight), a variety of beads (makeup and size), as well as just about every kind of plastic and hard lure I could think of.

I use (from top to bottom) a baitcaster w/ 12 lb mono, and 7 ft MH graphite rod, a brass finesse weight, a metal bead, a brass clacker, a glass bead, another clacker, a swivel, leader, and lure. I almost ALWAYS use a pre-rigged worm that has 2 smaller hooks w/ weed guards made of the same soft plastic as the worm that you actually stick the barb of the hook into. This is almost like cheating, because by the time that you feel the fish, he's already hooked. The sweeping hookset just plants them better. I don't miss the fish that hit, and never hang up with the protected hooks. We used to call them "do-nothing worms" back in the day, because that's all you have to do to catch fish...nothing. They can be found at touchdownlures.com...try 'em, you'll LOVE them.

My method of retrieve is different than most...I will also work my Trig in a similar fashion. I cast, take up slack, and instead of sweeping the rod I will pop the rod-tip a few times, rattling the brass-N-glass, and imparting a jerking action on the worm. Take up slack and repeat back to the boat. The lure does not move as far as with a rod sweep, and the jerking action and clacking really drives 'em crazy.

Jake P reply :

this may be a dumb question but what are the beads for?

roadwarrior reply :

Mostly to protect the knot, but beads will also "click" when they get knocked around or hit a rock.

Champ Girl reply :

I have to say that i'm new to c-rigging. I've found this post extremely helpful and educational. Thanks a bunch for being so helpful! 8-)

Possum reply :

awesome read

FarmerBass reply :

Looks like I'm going to have to try some c-rigging. Ive done some texas style.

Great reading

Larry

fisherwoman reply :

c-rig is a very simple yet complicated method of fishing i recomend using lighter weight (1/2 oz ) with the 4" centipede at 4-8 feet and 3/4 to 1 oz for 10-16 feet with a trick worm i dont fish much deeper than that the lake i fish is shallow only about 20-25 feet hope this helps good luck fisherwoman

mdmaynard reply :

I have always used T-rig, after reading this I am going out tomorrow morning and trying c-rig

GREAT READING and very informative thanks all whom contributed.

steelhorse1 reply :

great info on deep water rigging.. will have to give this a shot

Castamasta reply :

paul elias has inspired me to use the c rig!

Nick B reply :

I like to fish C-rig almost year round, I like to use it a search tool. I rig it up with 2 beads adds a little extra clicking, I also like to use a slinky weight when fishing lakes with lots of hang-ups on the bottom. I prefer to use the strike king 3x plastics because they float. I began using the C-rig while fishing the shallower lakes in Ga, but have learned to use in the lakes here in Ar to fish much deeper. Its a very versitile rig.

killobet reply :

:Dthis is toooo much information for carolina rigging great job guys !!i think im good to go to try it!!thanks again > >:(thats why i love this sites!!

iceintheveins reply :

How exactly do you guys set the hook with a sweeping motion?

Sweetwater reply :

Quote
How exactly do you guys set the hook with a sweeping motion?

Everyone is different, but I reel down till my rod tip is pointing at the line, then snap the rodtip sharply straight up. Sharp hooks are crucial.

kikstand454 reply :

just sweep your rod to the left or right.... kinda like you hook up on a crank bait. pulling straight up brings the heavy sinker into play and may encourage a fish to drop your bait.

or worse... the weight suddenly jumping up may pull out out of their mouth.

sweeping the hookset is under the idea that you are setting the hook "through" the weight.... taking it out of the equation.

i probably throw a c-rig more than anything. it rocks.

burleytog reply :

Quote
How exactly do you guys set the hook with a sweeping motion?

Just sweep the rod to the side. If the rod is at 11, 12 or 1, just sweep the rod horizontally to set the hook. When C-rigging, I always keep the rod perpendicular to my belt buckle.

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