My experience with baitcasters is into my 3rd season, and I have to say, between a handfull of daiwa, quantum, okuma and shimano reels, I am a huge fan of the ACS centrifugal system quantum uses followed closely by the centrifugal brakes in general. I have found magnetic brakes to be unreliable. I've used a few different magnetic systems, magforce z, magforce v and the lower end shimano magnetic and have to say IMO it sucks. Seems to be either on or off, no consistency with it.
The quantum setup to me at least seems to be the most consistent and reliable, although I would like to play around with one of the browning DBS reels that uses both centrifugal and magnetic iirc?
What do you guys think? I'm starting to find myself using the brakes less and less as I have begun moving into alot of conventional reel use in the salt, my thumb has gotten much more sensitive and accurate when casting.
I've narrowed down my biggest pros and cons below of each centrifugal and magnetic.
Centrifugal:
Pros-
Consistent performance
More precise control over a wider range of conditions
Cons-
Time consuming adjustment
Very sensitive to dirt intrusion
Higher Maintenence
Magnetic:
Pros-
Easy adjustment
Low Maintenence
Generally wider range of adjustment
Cons-
Inconsistent spool speed
More thumb control required on cast
Consistent howling on cast despite multiple professional cleanings/services.
Centrifugal. Why? Because I like braking that actually works.
With regard to your centrifugal cons, it takes 10 seconds to adjust the braking on a Shimano reel. Higher maintenance? What maintenance is required? When I perform my yearly cleaning, I will clean the brake race with a cotton swab. Other than that, there is nothing to maintain.
The "six-pin crowd" will show up here any minute to tell you that centrifugal is best. "All you have to do is set it and forget it."
So, let me counter by saying, you can do that with a magnetic brake, too.
People say all you have to do with a centrifugal brake is set it and forget it. I say under normal fishing conditions that's all you can do. Unless you appeal to having to open your side plate and play with little weights on pins on a boat with wet or sticky hands. But when you set it and forget it, all you've done is pick some compromise setting that handles a wide range of lures reasonably well, but hardly any optimally. Nothing that says you can't do this with a magnetic brake. But a magnetic brake at least gives you the option of fine tuning your reel to a specific bait without opening your reel when you do change baits.
Definitely magnetic for me! I hate having to open the side cover to adjust the brakes! Plus i think you get more levels of adjustments(smaller increments) with magnetic brakes.
Hmm...
I'm on holiday with Micro, so no arguments tonight.
All I have to say is, "Centrifugal brakes are effective
and VERY user friendly."
8-)
There is no need of 'fine-tuning' a centrifugal braking system. Compromise? What is compromising about activating two brakes and never having to worry about adjusting again?
Magnetic braking acts at the wrong point of the cast.
As far as adjusting on the water, it is as easy as quarter-turn, activate or deactivate collars and close the sideplate. 30 seconds tops. Some make the process out to be akin to overhauling a 12 cylinder engine.
I am in the SIX PIN CLUB!!!!!!
I like the quantum, easy to adjust and a wide range of settings...At least on last years model
QuoteThere is no need of 'fine-tuning' a centrifugal braking system. Compromise? What is compromising about activating two brakes and never having to worry about adjusting again?
Would you really have us believe that is the perfect setting under all circumstances and with all lures. Heck, why even make a 6-pin then. Just make a 2 pin and have them on all the time. Or that might be too Abu'y for some.
Like I said, do it that way. No reason you can't do the same with a mag brake.
QuoteHmm...I'm on holiday with Micro, so no arguments tonight.
All I have to say is, "Centrifugal brakes are effective
and VERY user friendly."
8-)
You'll wait 'til tomorrow when I'm at work to respond. ;D
Centrifugal for me. I have both Shimano's and a Revo STX. I just find the centrifugal much easier and a lot more reliable.
Later,
i like some implementations of magnetic brakes (daiwa's magforce) and really dislike others (revos). to me, mag brakes tend to be fussier, need more frequent adjustment, and are less-forgiving. for the most part, i prefer centrifugal brakes as i find them extremely easy to use, very reliable and very consistent. once i adjust the brakes to 2 on/4 off, i never touch them again. i still have both types in my collection.
The 2 brakes work at different parts of the cast.
The centrifugal works during the initial spool spin up. Probably the hardest part of baitcasting to control properly due to the rather violent nature of snapping your wrist and forearm during casting.
It's also the part of the cast that makes or breaks distance and whether a backlash can happen further into the cast due to line looping on the spool due to overrun at startup.
Mag brakes work towards the end of the cast when thumb control is important.
Then there's Daiwa, with their mag braking system which interacts with the spool rotation throughout the cast.
Centrifugal brakes are probably more important for overall casting consistency. They've been around a lot longer. Mag brakes were invented as a sales aid for those afraid of baitcasters and backlashes, especially newer anglers.
If you want the best of both worlds, get a dual braking system. I have many. My usual setup has the centrifugal brakes on but the mags turned off. If the wind kicks up or I'm using a higher profile bait that tends to hang in the air during the cast I can adjust the problems out with the mag brakes.
Normally, on my patriarchs, my thumb is only on the spool at initial startup and when I want the lure to stop. I rarely have to thumb the spool during most of the cast.
QuoteThe 2 brakes work at different parts of the cast.The centrifugal works during the initial spool spin up. Probably the hardest part of baitcasting to control properly due to the rather violent nature of snapping your wrist and forearm during casting.
It's also the part of the cast that makes or breaks distance and whether a backlash can happen further into the cast due to line looping on the spool due to overrun at startup.
Mag brakes work towards the end of the cast when thumb control is important.
This is where the discussion gets interesting for me I'm most concerned about the loops that develop deeper in the spool and may not be noticed after a cast. Where in the cast do these deep loops occur and what technique / brake systems are best for limiting them. I'm using centrifugal brake reels. Thanks!
centrifugal is best.both is better.get a pflueger patriarch!!!
As a new user of baitcasters centrifugal have been by far better for me. I have tried a mag brake reel and had nothing but issues. Switch to the centrifugal and was making cast of good length with no backlashes straight out of the box. Just set it to 2 pins on, by reading on the site here it seemed to be the most used setting and all was good.
30 years of baitcasting...
Either system for me.....
The way I set my reels there are no problems with either systems, and all are setup prior to hitting the water..
Tight Lines All!!
Normally are the pins clicked in or out when the brakes are active?
Which do I prefer ? both
Spool control is where it 's always been ---> in the thumb.
QuoteNormally are the pins clicked in or out when the brakes are active?
Always "out", but not beyond the last keeper.
Two "on" are immediately opposed to each other.
Three on is every other brake on.
Start with all six on if this is your first baitcaster
and crank the cast control down finger tight.
Over time you will loosen things up to increase
casting distance.
OK THANX! I have a couple of new baitcasters I haven't even used cause I couldn't figure out which engaged the brake and which way released it. It has six pins and I put three in and three out (opposite of each other) but was afraid of a bad birds nest.
QuoteIt has six pins and I put three in and three out (opposite of each other) but was afraid of a bad birds nest.
That doesn't sound right. You'd want to have every other pin out to get three on and three off, and still be balanced. Otherwise, turn them on or off in pairs, or even numbers, like four on in an "X" pattern.
QuoteThe 2 brakes work at different parts of the cast.The centrifugal works during the initial spool spin up. Probably the hardest part of baitcasting to control properly due to the rather violent nature of snapping your wrist and forearm during casting.
It's also the part of the cast that makes or breaks distance and whether a backlash can happen further into the cast due to line looping on the spool due to overrun at startup.
Mag brakes work towards the end of the cast when thumb control is important.
Then there's Daiwa, with their mag braking system which interacts with the spool rotation throughout the cast.
Centrifugal brakes are probably more important for overall casting consistency. They've been around a lot longer. Mag brakes were invented as a sales aid for those afraid of baitcasters and backlashes, especially newer anglers.
If you want the best of both worlds, get a dual braking system. I have many. My usual setup has the centrifugal brakes on but the mags turned off. If the wind kicks up or I'm using a higher profile bait that tends to hang in the air during the cast I can adjust the problems out with the mag brakes.
Normally, on my patriarchs, my thumb is only on the spool at initial startup and when I want the lure to stop. I rarely have to thumb the spool during most of the cast.
If you're snapping your wrist and forearm violently you're cast control knob is set too tight. When **I** started loosening the cast control knob to a point where the weight of the bait is pulling the line out easily, then both the centrifugal or mechanical brake works more effectively.
I like a reel that has both, but if I had to choose just one I would have to go with cetrifugal, the rest I can do with my thumb.
I have a cheaper quantum reel with a magentic brake, and it is unreliable and I usually get 3 - 5 backlashes per day. But since I'm buying a Curado I think I won't have to worry about that as much.
I have reels with either and both, I don't use them. The spool tension knob is all that is needed with an educated thumb.
I have both..but your thumb is the Key..
QuoteWhich do I prefer ? bothSpool control is where it 's always been ---> in the thumb.
QuoteQuoteThe 2 brakes work at different parts of the cast.The centrifugal works during the initial spool spin up. Probably the hardest part of baitcasting to control properly due to the rather violent nature of snapping your wrist and forearm during casting.
It's also the part of the cast that makes or breaks distance and whether a backlash can happen further into the cast due to line looping on the spool due to overrun at startup.
Mag brakes work towards the end of the cast when thumb control is important.
Then there's Daiwa, with their mag braking system which interacts with the spool rotation throughout the cast.
Centrifugal brakes are probably more important for overall casting consistency. They've been around a lot longer. Mag brakes were invented as a sales aid for those afraid of baitcasters and backlashes, especially newer anglers.
If you want the best of both worlds, get a dual braking system. I have many. My usual setup has the centrifugal brakes on but the mags turned off. If the wind kicks up or I'm using a higher profile bait that tends to hang in the air during the cast I can adjust the problems out with the mag brakes.
Normally, on my patriarchs, my thumb is only on the spool at initial startup and when I want the lure to stop. I rarely have to thumb the spool during most of the cast.
If you're snapping your wrist and forearm violently you're cast control knob is set too tight. When **I** started loosening the cast control knob to a point where the weight of the bait is pulling the line out easily, then both the centrifugal or mechanical brake works more effectively.
On a mag only reel like the Revo SX or STX, a setting like that gets you a backlash. On those reels you have to set the spool tension so you have to jiggle the rod to get the lure going.
QuoteI have both..but your thumb is the Key..QuoteWhich do I prefer ? bothSpool control is where it 's always been ---> in the thumb.
On the Johnny Morris or Patriarchs or Summits. The thumb is rarely used other than holding down on the spool until you release it at the beginning of the cast and stopping the spool at the end. Properly set up those reels are virtually thumbs free casting even into the wind.
I learned to cast on baitcasters, some 40 years ago on equipment that was 10-15 years old at the time. Of course todays equipment is far superior but I never did lose the habit of thumb control for this reason both are fine.
QuoteQuoteQuoteThe 2 brakes work at different parts of the cast.The centrifugal works during the initial spool spin up. Probably the hardest part of baitcasting to control properly due to the rather violent nature of snapping your wrist and forearm during casting.
It's also the part of the cast that makes or breaks distance and whether a backlash can happen further into the cast due to line looping on the spool due to overrun at startup.
Mag brakes work towards the end of the cast when thumb control is important.
Then there's Daiwa, with their mag braking system which interacts with the spool rotation throughout the cast.
Centrifugal brakes are probably more important for overall casting consistency. They've been around a lot longer. Mag brakes were invented as a sales aid for those afraid of baitcasters and backlashes, especially newer anglers.
If you want the best of both worlds, get a dual braking system. I have many. My usual setup has the centrifugal brakes on but the mags turned off. If the wind kicks up or I'm using a higher profile bait that tends to hang in the air during the cast I can adjust the problems out with the mag brakes.
Normally, on my patriarchs, my thumb is only on the spool at initial startup and when I want the lure to stop. I rarely have to thumb the spool during most of the cast.
If you're snapping your wrist and forearm violently you're cast control knob is set too tight. When **I** started loosening the cast control knob to a point where the weight of the bait is pulling the line out easily, then both the centrifugal or mechanical brake works more effectively.
On a mag only reel like the Revo SX or STX, a setting like that gets you a backlash. On those reels you have to set the spool tension so you have to jiggle the rod to get the lure going.
I am using the Revo STX and the Revo Elite and use those exact settings with no problems. The linked video is in Japanese but if you watch starting at about 4:50, you will see the demonstration. I'm using baits starting at 1/4 oz, up to 3/4 oz with only minor adjustment of the mag brake.
Try it, then comment.
I did. I messed with the STX and SX till I was blue in the face.
Then I picked up a couple JM sig reels and fished those along side the STX's.
I began to wonder why I was screwing around with the Revo's. (I don't have any complaints with the S Revo's)
I suppose I pick my fishing reels like I would a golf club. I wouldn't pick a high end club that has an exact sweet spot with no forgiveness. I want a club that gives you a little benefit of the doubt if you mishit the ball. It makes the game so much more enjoyable.
If you can toss a variety of baits on an STX without using your thumb I give you credit. I doubt that's the case though.
QuoteI did. I messed with the STX and SX till I was blue in the face.Then I picked up a couple JM sig reels and fished those along side the STX's.
I began to wonder why I was screwing around with the Revo's. (I don't have any complaints with the S Revo's)
I suppose I pick my fishing reels like I would a golf club. I wouldn't pick a high end club that has an exact sweet spot with no forgiveness. I want a club that gives you a little benefit of the doubt if you mishit the ball. It makes the game so much more enjoyable.
If you can toss a variety of baits on an STX without using your thumb I give you credit. I doubt that's the case though.
Don't misunderstand, I have no stock in Pure Fishing so there isn't any financial incentive on my part. I just don't experience the problems many others seem to have and thought I might be of assistance.
As far as problems casting a variety of baits as mentioned. I have no reason to lie, not even puff the facts a bit.
I learned to cast on the ABU 5500C some 35+ years ago. I think a lot of problems people have is based upon poor lessons.
If you like the JM reels and they do the job for you, that's the biggest part of the game.
QuoteQuoteI did. I messed with the STX and SX till I was blue in the face.Then I picked up a couple JM sig reels and fished those along side the STX's.
I began to wonder why I was screwing around with the Revo's. (I don't have any complaints with the S Revo's)
I suppose I pick my fishing reels like I would a golf club. I wouldn't pick a high end club that has an exact sweet spot with no forgiveness. I want a club that gives you a little benefit of the doubt if you mishit the ball. It makes the game so much more enjoyable.
If you can toss a variety of baits on an STX without using your thumb I give you credit. I doubt that's the case though.
Don't misunderstand, I have no stock in Pure Fishing so there isn't any financial incentive on my part. I just don't experience the problems many others seem to have and thought I might be of assistance.
As far as problems casting a variety of baits as mentioned. I have no reason to lie, not even puff the facts a bit.
I learned to cast on the ABU 5500C some 35+ years ago. I think a lot of problems people have is based upon poor lessons.
If you like the JM reels and they do the job for you, that's the biggest part of the game.
amen...as the saying goes....what works for one might or mightnot work for another....either brake is fine for me i dont care to me its all in the operators hand ,or thumb
QuoteQuoteI did. I messed with the STX and SX till I was blue in the face.Then I picked up a couple JM sig reels and fished those along side the STX's.
I began to wonder why I was screwing around with the Revo's. (I don't have any complaints with the S Revo's)
I suppose I pick my fishing reels like I would a golf club. I wouldn't pick a high end club that has an exact sweet spot with no forgiveness. I want a club that gives you a little benefit of the doubt if you mishit the ball. It makes the game so much more enjoyable.
If you can toss a variety of baits on an STX without using your thumb I give you credit. I doubt that's the case though.
Don't misunderstand, I have no stock in Pure Fishing so there isn't any financial incentive on my part. I just don't experience the problems many others seem to have and thought I might be of assistance.
As far as problems casting a variety of baits as mentioned. I have no reason to lie, not even puff the facts a bit.
I learned to cast on the ABU 5500C some 35+ years ago. I think a lot of problems people have is based upon poor lessons.
If you like the JM reels and they do the job for you, that's the biggest part of the game.
Don't get me wrong.
The Revo's do a whole lot of things right and as somebody that's used Garcia products for the same number of years as yourself I wish I still was. If the braking system was changed I'd happily switch back. The STX was a fine reel that just didn't work for me in one particular way.
I have both, but as I see it people that don't want to use their thumb prefer the 6 pin system (more like spin cast). The Mag breaks require that you use your thumb.
pantera61, i think the key to the wide disparity in how people feel about the revo SX/STX is due to the differences in the way people cast. if you "sweep" cast, the magnetic revos are fine. on the other hand, if you "snap" cast with the mag revos, the mag brake doesn't seem to kick in fast enough. what's worse is for someone like me who alternates between sweeping and snapping my casts and often forgets to make appropriate adjustments to the settings
I am with ranger and frank.
I fish with the STX and if you dont stay focused on every cast and situation you encounter while fishing the STX you will be pulling a little line off once in a while. Nothing big or one of those overruns you cant undo. While using the six pins you dont need near the adjustments however I wouldnt exactly compare it to a spincast.
QuoteDon't misunderstand, I have no stock in Pure Fishing so there isn't any financial incentive on my part. I just don't experience the problems many others seem to have and thought I might be of assistance.
As far as problems casting a variety of baits as mentioned. I have no reason to lie, not even puff the facts a bit.
I learned to cast on the ABU 5500C some 35+ years ago. I think a lot of problems people have is based upon poor lessons.
If you like the JM reels and they do the job for you, that's the biggest part of the game.
I'm with you on this one man! The Revos are the best thing to happen to me! I can cast an 1/8oz T-Rigged worm just as good as a 1/2oz Rat-L-Trap with my Revos! I epecially like my HS STX reels. I think those who dislike them are either uninterested in learning them or are already bias but trying them anyways, Just my opinion though!
QuoteI have both, but as I see it people that don't want to use their thumb prefer the 6 pin system (more like spin cast). The Mag breaks require that you use your thumb.
QuoteThey've been around a lot longer.
I didn't know this. The first braking systems I encountered were magnetic on my Shimano Black Magnums in the early/mid 80's. So, spew the history for me. I thought mag brakes were the first to arrive.
Anyway, I don't care which I have really since I learned without any brakes. My thumb seems to work well on most days. I don't even engage any of the pins on my Shimano's and never have but admittedly, my new Castaic has been giving me some fits so it might see a couple pins now. I do sometimes use the mag brakes on my revo's and Daiwa's but they never get set above 30-40% (which happens if I have to throw into a stiff wind).
Jeff H,QuoteCentrifugal brakes are probably more important for overall casting consistency. They've been around a lot longer. Mag brakes were invented as a sales aid for those afraid of baitcasters and backlashes, especially newer anglers.
cart7t is right. Centrificale brakes have been around longer, they were on the early Lews BB1 series (circa 70's) of reels that Shimano® tooled.
They were all you could get on the Abu Garcia Round reels, and are still being used.
Some older Daiwa's like the SM2A LP BC reels (circa early 80's) used Centrificale brakes.
Shimano' popular 10SG's, and 10XSG's (circa 85)...
Not sure on what company actually introduced the mags first, but the sales pitches were "less backlashing", "no more birdsnest"....
Tight Lines!!!
I am fairly new to baitcasting and prefer Shimano centrifugal. I tried a Daiwa TDA which I couldn't cast very well. It didn't seem like the mag braking was working at initial cast even when cranked up.
My backlashes now only occur occasionally mostly during beginning part of cast where the spool is spinning faster than the lure taking the line out. For those who turn braking off (whether centrifugal or magnetic), how do you prevent overrun at startup? If you're a snap-caster, do you keep your thumb on the spool at startup? If so, doesn't that limit casting distance?
QuoteQuoteThey've been around a lot longer.I didn't know this. The first braking systems I encountered were magnetic on my Shimano Black Magnums in the early/mid 80's. So, spew the history for me. I thought mag brakes were the first to arrive.
Anyway, I don't care which I have really since I learned without any brakes. My thumb seems to work well on most days. I don't even engage any of the pins on my Shimano's and never have but admittedly, my new Castaic has been giving me some fits so it might see a couple pins now. I do sometimes use the mag brakes on my revo's and Daiwa's but they never get set above 30-40% (which happens if I have to throw into a stiff wind).
To expound on reel mechs explanation.
Garcia rounds had centrifugal brakes for a long time, possibly even pre 1970, not sure of the year. Except they just called them brakes. It was 2 metal pins with sliding brake pads that were always on. The reel normally came with 2 extra sets of brake pads, one larger and one smaller than the stock pair on the reel. In order to "adjust" the brake, you had to change the pads which involved undoing the thumb screws on the crank side plate, pulling the plate side off which exposed the spool end. Then it was a matter of threading the old pads off and putting the other ones on. Not an easy matter on the water without dropping one of them. ;D
QuoteI think those who dislike them are either uninterested in learning them or are already bias but trying them anyways...
Well, I received a STX as a gift in March 2008. I have it matched to
a G. Loomis GLX MBR844C. This was my dedicated jig rig for the past
sixteen months.
With a little patience and practice, the STX performs on a level with
high-end Shimano reels. It is strong, smooth, silent and reliant. The
ergonomics are exceptional and the reel is a very beautiful piece of
equipment.
So, after 16 months, the brakes still suck. Although I throw a 1/2 oz
jig plus trailer almost exclusively on this set-up, adjustments are
required every time out, and occasionally during an outing. On the
other extreme, my Shimanos are set once and always good-to-go.
8-)
I was casting an unweighted 4" Berkley Chigger Craw with my STX yesterday on a Daiwa L&T Frog Rod. It was the same reel I used with my Steez 7'1" rod to pitch a jig and pig.
My adjustment: A couple turns of the cast control knob. Period.
QuoteQuoteI think those who dislike them are either uninterested in learning them or are already bias but trying them
OUCH!!!
on the other hand, there are people who very much want to love their revos because they were so fond of their ABU garcia round reels yet they found the "linear magnetic braking" still didn't work out for them. in fact, that would describe me perfectly.
now, interestingly enough, i really like the mag brakes on ABU garcia's max reels. i have the black max and the pro max that i bought for my kids and guests to use and my experience with them in terms of casting performance has been superb. easy to use, not fussy, and great casting distance. go figure, eh?
QuoteQuoteQuoteI think those who dislike them are either uninterested in learning them or are already bias but trying them
OUCH!!!
on the other hand, there are people who very much want to love their revos because they were so fond of their ABU garcia round reels yet they found the "linear magnetic braking" still didn't work out for them. in fact, that would describe me perfectly.
now, interestingly enough, i really like the mag brakes on ABU garcia's max reels. i have the black max and the pro max that i bought for my kids and guests to use and my experience with them in terms of casting performance has been superb. easy to use, not fussy, and great casting distance. go figure, eh?
Odd isn't it? I tried a couple of those silver Max reels for a month or two just to try out a Plastic baitcaster. They're infinitely easier to cast and adjust than the Revo SX or STX. They cast a mile too. I don't know about the longevity of those reels though, the ones I had were already making noises like things weren't meshing up correctly everytime.
QuoteIMy adjustment: A couple turns of the cast control knob. Period.
Centrifugal all the way, if I need to adjust something I use the cast control.
QuoteOdd isn't it? I tried a couple of those silver Max reels for a month or two just to try out a Plastic baitcaster. They're infinitely easier to cast and adjust than the Revo SX or STX. They cast a mile too. I don't know about the longevity of those reels though, the ones I had were already making noises like things weren't meshing up correctly everytime.
odd? i'll say. i'm glad i'm not the only one who has noticed this. i can literally spool the black max on almost every cast (using 50 lb. braid which has the equivalent diameter as 12 lb. mono and a super spook). then, there's the time i was fishing a pro/am on the california delta...i had birdnested so badly on my SX that i had to turn to my emergency backup reelthe pro maxand it was flat out amazing. we were fan-casting luckycraft LVR D7s as far as we could in open water and i was getting about 20 feet more than the pro and we were both chuckling about it. the pro max was squeaking and making noises but i landed every fish i hooked and even outcaught the pro that day.
centrifugal for me. I love my Quantum Code with ACS adjustable centrifugal cast control. Its like they read my mind on what I want in a reel and made one where you don't have to take off the sideplate to adjust the brakes.