This is going to sound like a stupid question, but will braided line mess up your guides and reel?
Here is the quote from the article, “Another very important fact about braided lines is that they have all the qualities of a hacksaw when it comes in contact with rod and reel components. Unless your rod has titanium or another similar material lining the guides, I would not recommend these lines. In more than one instance I have seen the line make serious indentations and abrasions in rod guides. This also applies to line rollers on spinning reels and level winds on bait casting reels. They will be harmed from its ultra coarse texture as well.”
http://www.bassresource.com/fishing/braided_mono.html
Folks are talking about how great braided lines are, so I wanted to give that a try but after reading this article and I am not too sure anymore…
These days it seems most rods and reels can handle braid. Unless you using a $30 wal mart combo you should he ok. What did you want to pit it on?
shimano compre, and shimano citica.
Yes, you can use braid with no problems with that combo.
I have used braid for over 15 years and have never had the problems that your article stated.
OK. What are some good lines to purchase? I will add it to my "buy list for the boring winter." I will be using it mostly for Jig(swim Jig) fishing, and occasionally fish shallow crankbaits (with fluru leader).
On 10/31/2011 at 11:52 PM, Lee.MD said:OK. What are some good lines to purchase? I will add it to my "buy list for the boring winter." I will be using it mostly for Jig(swim Jig) fishing, and occasionally fish shallow crankbaits (with fluru leader).
Try Daiwa Samurai. Yes, the initial cost is high, but one 150 yd spool lasted me 2 years. I spool 75 yds on or so at a time, and reverse it in the middle of the year. Throw those 75 yds in the trash at the end of the year, and spool the other 75 yds on your reel.
Two other braids I've been wanting to try are the Seaguar Kanzen, and the Toray Bawo. Guess I'll wait till I run out of Samurai, which won't be in a while
do you guys spool some mono, before fill it up with braid? and what's the reason behind it?
On 11/1/2011 at 1:24 AM, Lee.MD said:do you guys spool some mono, before fill it up with braid? and what's the reason behind it?
Saome use mono or tape.
It keeps the braid from slipping.
does it matter what diameter you put on before the braid? For example, 10lb nano for 40lb Braid?
On 11/1/2011 at 4:01 AM, Lee.MD said:does it matter what diameter you put on before the braid? For example, 10lb nano for 40lb Braid?
Guess it doesn't matter. Long ago, I bought a 1000 yd spool (or something like that) of 10 lb Eagle Claw mono for $2.00 from Walmart to use as backing. That spool is still going strong.
If you're putting 10 lb mono as backing on a *spinning* reel, I'd be a little careful so that it's wound tightly.
On 11/1/2011 at 2:24 AM, Grey Wolf said:Saome use mono or tape.
It keeps the braid from slipping.
He's right. Braid on a bare spool would slip. I fill up almost half the reel with backing before spooling braid; saves a lot of $$.
On 11/1/2011 at 9:31 AM, deep said:He's right. Braid on a bare spool would slip. I fill up almost half the reel with backing before spooling braid; saves a lot of $$.
Do you fish braid with flouro leader? Or just straight braid?
On 11/1/2011 at 9:40 AM, Lee.MD said:Do you fish braid with flouro leader? Or just straight braid?
I use mono or copoly leader.
I like Power Pro or 832 braids. Another thing I'd use a 50# braid as it won't "dig" like a smaller diameter braid will. I use the high-vis Yellow or Green line and take a sharpie to the last 7' instead of using a leader.
On 11/1/2011 at 10:44 AM, Hi Salenity said:I like Power Pro or 832 braids. Another thing I'd use a 50# braid as it won't "dig" like a smaller diameter braid will. I use the high-vis Yellow or Green line and take a sharpie to the last 7' instead of using a leader.
X2 but always use green and no sharpie yet for me but only time I use braid is with flipping, pitching, and when tossing frogs.
if i had one to pick it would be 832, but samurai is great and so is fireline
personally i think samurai would be best suited for spinning but its works good on casting but i like it a lil more rigid.
Sounds like a lot work just to use braided lines. First, you need to spool mono backing. Then, tie a uni knot and spool the braided to almost full. If I would to fish other applications other than Jigs, and Top water then I need a leader. For weekend warriors, are you guys truly felt there is much advantage using the braided line vs. flouro? I usually don’t take more 2 rods with me, since I am on foot 70% of the times. I will fill my spinning reel with P-line halo, and baitcaster with Yo-zuri (not too happy with Yo-zuri right now, since I lost few decent fish trying to pull it out from the weeds).
I have 23 combos in regular use. Three or four of them have braid. I'd say, having a heavy rod with braid for frogs, t-rigs and jigs would be very useful for anyone that fishes heavy weeds.
On 11/1/2011 at 9:39 PM, J Francho said:I have 23 combos in regular use. Three or four of them have braid. I'd say, having a heavy rod with braid for frogs, t-rigs and jigs would be very useful for anyone that fishes heavy weeds.
Well, I definitely don’t own 23 rods, ha-ha.
For a weekend fisherman, and don’t want to carry more than two rods per outing. I usually fish with Jigs/Swim Jigs on baitcaster, and plastics on a spinner reel. Would you use braided lines on the baitcaster, or stay with Yo-Zuri?
I'd get an extra spool, and use both. In fact, I used to do that before getting into kayaks, and boats. I carried a spinner and a caster, and had a couple of spools for each.
I cast with braid and fish with fluoro .
Suffix 832 on every reel I own from 20 to 65#. And with the exception of frogs, zara spooks and Pop-R's I fish it with a 4-5' fluoro leader tied on with the
The 832 has been a real "sport saver" for me. I just do not possess the patience at this point to dink around with mono and fluoro spooled reels. I have to have the line in the water and not wadded up on the reel if I'm to stick with this sport.
Still, all this is very subjective. I found what works for me and my time on the water has improved measurably.
I hope you do too.
Jim
On 10/31/2011 at 11:52 PM, Lee.MD said:OK. What are some good lines to purchase? I will add it to my "buy list for the boring winter." I will be using it mostly for Jig(swim Jig) fishing, and occasionally fish shallow crankbaits (with fluru leader).
I wouldn't recommend braid for shallow crankbaits, I'd stick with Mono, or strictly flouro for that application. JMO
Samurai. It's simply awesome. I don't subscribe to the backing strategy. It's one more knot that can fail. A small piece of electric tape on the spool will take care of any braid slipping.
Spinning just use tape and BC tie into holes on spool never been lucky enough to get a hook-up that spooled me.
You need to know your adversary, LMB are not capable of making long runs, so for a setup that is used primary for bass backing is fine and 75 yds of braid is more than enough. If your chances of hooking into something that has a bit more fight to it, I agree with Redline. For me it's only spinning gear and I spool all the way with braid, I never tie but tape to the spool. I have been spooled many times, but never in freshwater.not saying in can't happen but the likelyhood is very low.
Personally I keep it simple, my favorite brand is the one on sale, which is usally PP or Fins, no issues with these brands and I catch my fair share of fish.
I want to use 15# Suffix Performance Stretch baird on a 7'10" glass rod and Curado 50 or Calai 100 reel for cranks. Do you think the 15# braid is to small and will dig into itself and I should use a larger diameter braid or do you think it will cast OK without a lot of issues. Also what is your opinion of the Suffix Stretch Braid.
Thanks
Braided line and line guides have both come a long way. Modern verions can be used together with no problem. Possible exceptions may be with the very cheapest of guides or guide models without inserts (Recoils...) and even then you may be fine.
On the setups I use with braid, I use mostly Power Pro. I spool on enough backing to allow for about 100 yds. of the braid. Then I tape the backing down with electrical tape completely around the spool. Tie the braid over that and pull real tight. Never had a slip. Just spooled up a spinning outfit with 20lb braid and am going to try this with a leader for finesse/shakey heads and see how it works. This has enough backing to allow for more braid, just in case. Good vid on the albright knot.
On 11/3/2011 at 11:47 PM, Delaware Valley Tackle said:Braided line and line guides have both come a long way. Modern verions can be used together with no problem. Possible exceptions may be with the very cheapest of guides or guide models without inserts (Recoils...) and even then you may be fine.
i have a rod with recoils that i use braid on for 3 years now with no wear.
I'm 100% shore angler I have 3 primary set-ups that are general purpose enough to get the job done.
6'6 MH Moderate action w/Power Pro. No backing - no slipping - on Curado 200E7.
7' M Fast action using 12lb. PLine (I miss Gamma ) on Curado 200E7.
6' UL Fast action with Stradic 1000FI spooled with 6lb. Fireline with mono backing and so far I can't get this one tuned right. It's just giving me a hardtime and so far I'm not feeling it.
I have had the PP bite in a couple times, but nothing that a quick unspool/rewind didn't fix. The Fireline Crystal (aka the very expensive dental floss) has a line profile that is making it very prone to biting into the residual spool material and the difference in backing mono size and the Fireline is contributing to the material biting in. I'm going to tape over the backing next, but this is getting to be a little much for a weekend warrior.
So, based on experience braid - great - no real issues with slip or bite on casting reel. The superline...the verdict is still out.
Good luck...
Jenn
On 11/2/2011 at 7:32 AM, Nkybassfisherman said:I wouldn't recommend braid for shallow crankbaits, I'd stick with Mono, or strictly flouro for that application. JMO
I think braid with shallow cranks is okay, just use a softer powered rod so you don't rip hooks out. This works for me because I've lost too many fish in the weeds with mono and flouro.
I found this http://*.com/making-switch-braid/ to be informative and sensible. I would like hearing from some experinced anglers weather they do as well (or not).
Jim
Link doesn't seem to be working.
On 11/29/2011 at 10:13 AM, 1234567 said:Link doesn't seem to be working.
Yer right, sorry all.
Here's the youtube version. Hope it works!
This guy's a tad 'different' but I like his approach.
jim
"...a tad 'different.."
Now I'm fixated on his lisp and hand motions...thanks Jim.
lol, check him out, he's caught a handful of teener sized bass. Pretty respectable IMO. His site provides some interesting articles as well.
I would be using braid on your combo.
I use braid for 1/2 my rods for a few years now with no signs of wearing on the guides or anywhere else.
Cheap braid with cheap dye will leave green junk behind on your reel and you will need to clean it once in a while.
I found power pro doesn't leave any junk.
All my setups (all baitcasters) are equipped with 65lb Spiderwire. Each one set up for different lures, all use polymer knots, no leaders, no mono-fill in the spools. Most spools now-a-days have holes to tie the braid into, and are built to handle braided line. If no holes, a clove hitch works to hold the line still.(Firefighter rope knot, works great) Only downfall to the braid is it will lose its color over timely use, but can be solved with green paint pen or a green sharpie marker.(or whatever color you use) I do a lot of heavy cover fishing down here in the Everglades, and we have these Snakeheads that are a fun catch too, so I dont take any chances on losing my fish. I also do a lot of bank fishing too, and take at least 3 with me. Also, if its the guides on the rods you are worried about, Berkley makes the Lightning Rod for a fair price around $50, I have 4 of them, and they are designed for superlines(braided). Im new to this forum, but I like the style. Hope I have been of some help. Keep your hooks sharp and line wet.
On 11/28/2011 at 10:17 AM, MrsTomustang said:I'm 100% shore angler I have 3 primary set-ups that are general purpose enough to get the job done.
6'6 MH Moderate action w/Power Pro. No backing - no slipping - on Curado 200E7.
7' M Fast action using 12lb. PLine (I miss Gamma ) on Curado 200E7.
6' UL Fast action with Stradic 1000FI spooled with 6lb. Fireline with mono backing and so far I can't get this one tuned right. It's just giving me a hardtime and so far I'm not feeling it.
I have had the PP bite in a couple times, but nothing that a quick unspool/rewind didn't fix. The Fireline Crystal (aka the very expensive dental floss) has a line profile that is making it very prone to biting into the residual spool material and the difference in backing mono size and the Fireline is contributing to the material biting in. I'm going to tape over the backing next, but this is getting to be a little much for a weekend warrior.
So, based on experience braid - great - no real issues with slip or bite on casting reel. The superline...the verdict is still out.
Good luck...
Jenn
I like most of Berkley's stuff, but Fireline isn't too impressive, at least IMO.
On 11/28/2011 at 10:17 AM, MrsTomustang said:I have had the PP bite in a couple times, but nothing that a quick unspool/rewind didn't fix. The Fireline Crystal (aka the very expensive dental floss) has a line profile that is making it very prone to biting into the residual spool material and the difference in backing mono size and the Fireline is contributing to the material biting in. I'm going to tape over the backing next, but this is getting to be a little much for a weekend warrior.
Jenn
I've tried to use Fireline Crystal as a leader with braid and it is terrible. I haven't determined exactly what happens but it pops right off at the knot. While I like most Berkley products, I, too, think fireline crystal is very pricey dental floss. Got sucked into buying it when it was on rebate but I won't buy it again.
On 12/1/2011 at 4:11 AM, LgMouthGambler said:Also, if its the guides on the rods you are worried about, Berkley makes the Lightning Rod for a fair price around $50
that would be the Lightning Rod Shock, not to be confused with the Lightning Rod
Yeah guys, I have to say that if the respooling doesn't feel good after this weekend, I'm pulling the Fireline off the Stradic and using the extra spool with PLine and respooling with mono.
I'll add that Thanksgiving I was out UL fishing and got 2 Perch (1 nice jumbo male 13"+, about 1.5 lbs) 3 Crappies and a sizable Pickerel on mono. Swapped over to the superline and 3 days skunked..nothin'..
3 days in a row skunked isn't leaving me warm and fuzzy with the Fireline on top of it being a total PITB.
I haven't seen a ceramic ringed guide that can't handle braid. the metal ringed guides...that's another story.
Now to expand on the braid a little more. it's not actually the braided line that is the problem.....it's the sediment that gets deposited on/in the line as you use it. That is what can be a potential problem on certain components that aren't up to the task.
On 12/1/2011 at 7:14 AM, Tom D. said:that would be the Lightning Rod Shock, not to be confused with the Lightning Rod
Oh, OK, I didnt know there was another one, Bass Pro only shows the one, its orange and grey colored with cork handles if that helps.
The first time I used Power Pro 30lb. test on a Shimano Chronarch 100SF. I backed the line with monifilment 10lb. test,the line broke after several casts at the spool.I tried again the same thing happened,I thought this to be very rare,I also checked all the guides on my rod they were fine. Can any one offer any suggestions,this has never happened with any of the other types of line I have used.
Use 65 lb Spiderwire. If your gonna do it, go big or go home. Usually the 30# is 6# dia so its too thin, and breaks easily. 65# is 12# dia. You wont have any problems.
Since there is no stretch, braid has poor shock resistance. If you're doing a snap cast with heavy baits that may be the problem. 6# dia. line may get caught between the spool and frame. As suggested, 50-65# braid works well on a baitcaster.
On 12/7/2011 at 1:59 AM, LgMouthGambler said:Use 65 lb Spiderwire. If your gonna do it, go big or go home. Usually the 30# is 6# dia so its too thin, and breaks easily. 65# is 12# dia. You wont have any problems.
Break on what? Only time braid breaks if it has a weak spot, I'm primarily a snook/tarpon fisherman and I use only 15 or 20# braid, does everything just fine. I don't use anything heavier than 15# braid for LMB, no problems. I'm strictly spinning, don't really see the need for a b/c for the above mentioned fish.
On 12/7/2011 at 2:40 AM, SirSnookalot said:Break on what? Only time braid breaks if it has a weak spot, I'm primarily a snook/tarpon fisherman and I use only 15 or 20# braid, does everything just fine. I don't use anything heavier than 15# braid for LMB, no problems. I'm strictly spinning, don't really see the need for a b/c for the above mentioned fish.
Ive had no luck with 30#, for some reason it seems to break on less than 30# of force, and its new line. I gave up and went big, but besides strength, it casts better for me since I use baitcasters. 30# works better for my spinners.
I use both PP and Fins braid, both work quite well for me. When it comes to bass fishing I don't set the too hook hard, braided lines don't break on me. I don't know what the pulling power of 7# bass is ( your PB), is it more than 30#? If yes use stronger line or use your drag wisely, if no then a lighter line should be sufficient. Both inshore and offshore fishing the majority of the fish slam hard enough to hook themselves, swinging for the fences is not necessary. Knowing how to use your drag and letting fish take line will land more fish than trying to muscle them in, too tight a drag can result in line breakage.