I bank fish so I've been using spinning gear my whole life and I've now decided to pick up fishing more and got some baitcasting gear.....
I understand how to set everything up with the breaks and tension knob, and when it comes to pitching/flipping/sidearm casts, all is fine, but when I try to cast overhand, my lure will go straight into the water and I'll end up with a huge birds nest... Coming from spinning gear, you kinda rely on your rod flex to fling your lure out there, but I have a pretty stiff MH/F 7'0" baitcasting rod and it seems impossible to cast overhand. I tried casting more lightly and turning up the magnetic breaks, but nothing's working..... Any tips would be great, thank you.
Sorry if this is in the wrong thread...
UPDATE: I use 3/8-1/2 ounce lures fyi...
Not 100% sure what to tell you. You mention both backlashes and the lure tanking straight down into the lake. Generally backlashes could be caused by casting into the wind or not having the right combination of line/rod/reel, or the reel not being setup properly. Also factor in the learning curve for those starting out with casting gear.
The only thing I could tell you may be the release point of your cast may be off it is going straight down and then backlashing. Maybe try casting a bit in your backyard using various styles and release points. Also would suggest casting out and some and pulling another 10 yards of line off your reel. Then place a small piece of black electrical tape there. This will prevent your backlash from going far into the reel.
On 3/28/2016 at 3:54 AM, kickerfish1 said:Not 100% sure what to tell you. You mention both backlashes and the lure tanking straight down into the lake. Generally backlashes could be caused by casting into the wind or not having the right combination of line/rod/reel, or the reel not being setup properly. Also factor in the learning curve for those starting out with casting gear.
The only thing I could tell you may be the release point of your cast may be off it is going straight down and then backlashing. Maybe try casting a bit in your backyard using various styles and release points. Also would suggest casting out and some and pulling another 10 yards of line off your reel. Then place a small piece of black electrical tape there. This will prevent your backlash from going far into the reel.
Okay, thanks for the tips. I have loads of electrical tape lying around haha.
Don't cast over head until you have more time under your belt using the casting gear. Its not your gear. You have to work on your release, and the weight of the lure you are using may also be a contributing factor. Magnetic brakes help you toward the end of your cast. Centrifugal brakes will assist you in the beginning of your cast.
It's just like learning to throw a ball. It's all about the release point. In your example it's too late. Worst thing you can do is throw hard. If you have to do that to load the Rod it's the wrong tool for the job .
On 3/28/2016 at 3:46 AM, TexRex said:I have a pretty stiff MH/F 7'0" baitcasting rod and it seems impossible to cast overhand.
what lure(s) are you trying to cast and what weights are you trying to throw on this rod?
On 3/28/2016 at 4:11 AM, iabass8 said:what lure(s) are you trying to cast and what weights are you trying to throw on this rod?
Frogs, Jigs, Lipless cranks.(3/8-1/2 ounces.)
With the exception of the jig with a craw trailer frog and lipless baits are among the furthest and easiest casting baits on the market. Almost everything else will be more difficult.
On 3/28/2016 at 4:42 AM, kickerfish1 said:With the exception of the jig with a craw trailer frog and lipless baits are among the furthest and easiest casting baits on the market. Almost everything else will be more difficult.
That's why I'm wondering what's wrong! Lol.
Get a rod with a softer tip, had the same problem when i picked up a baitcaster for the first time. It helped me alot
On 3/28/2016 at 5:02 AM, lectricbassman said:Get a rod with a softer tip, had the same problem when i picked up a baitcaster for the first time. It helped me alot
But if I'm fishing frogs and jigs, won't that cause a problem?
On 3/28/2016 at 4:11 AM, Delaware Valley Tackle said:It's just like learning to throw a ball. It's all about the release point. In your example it's too late. Worst thing you can do is throw hard. If you have to do that to load the Rod it's the wrong tool for the job .
Like Mike said, when it comes to the lure going straight down, it is all about the release point. You are releasing way tool late. You must release a lot sooner than you are use to with a spinning rod. I came from using only spinning rods. I learned with a side arm cast. Had I tried to learn with an overhead cast, I would have spent the vast majority of my time digging out backlashes.
Can I assume your sidearm cast is a roll cast? If not, are you starting with the rod to the rear? Baitcast reels require a smooth casting stroke. An overhead cast that is straight back and straight forward requires just as much good timing as a flyrod. The rod tip has to unload and then start to reload before starting the forward stroke. Start forward too soon, release the spool and you better have good thumb control because it is very likely the rod tip will start loading just as you release the spool....and "dang"...instant backlash because the spool will accelerate much faster than the lure will be pulling out the line.
Hope I explained it well enough to make sense.
+1 about "releasing" earlier in the cast.
Also, keep in mind that spinning rods rely on more of a snapping motion to cast the lure, while baitcasters benefit more from a smooth, fluid motion.
On 3/28/2016 at 8:44 AM, PennBass said:+1 about "releasing" earlier in the cast.
Also, keep in mind that spinning rods rely on more of a snapping motion to cast the lure, while baitcasters benefit more from a smooth, fluid motion.
Baitcast reels are all about being smooth. That is why I prefer a roll cast even when casting overhead unless top accuracy is needed. Hard to beat straight back, straight forward for accuracy.
Also as Mike stated, a hard cast is the wrong cast for a beginner. It only magnifies any jerkiness in the casting stroke. It also goes without saying, that the lures being used have to properly load the rod. Otherwise you will be throwing hard to get any kind of distance.
I have the same problem, although I've practiced and improved my overhand cast a lot. Try practicing with short, smooth easy casts and working on the release point. That's the key. I can really muscle a cast out there side armed, but it is taking me a lot more practice and not worrying about distance to improve my overhand cast. I think with enough practice you'll get to where you can cast overhand about as well as you can cast side armed.
On 3/28/2016 at 5:07 AM, TexRex said:But if I'm fishing frogs and jigs, won't that cause a problem?
You're not going to catch anything until you learn to cast. Lots of advice has been offered to you. Try it...
You are releasing the spool to late. Common for folks used to only spinning. Try to load the rod more on the back cast and release it as it passes your ear, also follow through parallel to the water pointing the rod where you want your lure to go. Actually if you do the above with a sidearm or 3/4 cast, you'll be better served. Just keep practicing and it will become second nature.
I have the opposite problem. When I switch to spinning I have to consciously retime my cast.
Don't try for distance at first.
Josh
Release your thumb earlier. It will feel like your lure is going to go straight up.... but it won't. Side arm a decent cast then put a small strip of electrical tape on the spool. This will prevent back lashes from going deep into the spool. Start casting easy. When you cast consistently to the tape pull out a few more yards and replace the tape.
I had the same problem when I was learning to use a baitcaster. I would overpower the rod, release too late and throw it at the ground. Just to much mussel memory from using a spinning rod for so many years . I practiced for days until my arm hurt to try casting it. Then I switched hands and made a cast the went easily double the distance of my best right handed cast on the first try and no backlash. I fished spinning rods right and casting rods left for a year or two. Now I tend to throw both right handed but still throw left somewhat regularly if a left handed cast will help avoid overhanging limbs or I have a kid behind me on the right. I'm not sure why left came so much easier for me but I think it had a lot to do with the fact that my left arm is not as strong so I didn't overpower the rod. When you have a lure that properly loads the rod it really takes very little power to send that lure flying. you just need to let the rod do the work and work on your timing you'll get it.
Tyler
Tyler, sit in front of the TV with a rod. Disengage spool. Feather as lure drops. Do it with both hands. I am right handed, but found I had much better thumb control with the left. Right thumb had a tendency to act like a light switch. It was either on or off. Took quite a while to get the right thumb to feather, and even today if I am having problems with the right hand, I switch to the left for better feathering control.
You can't throw a baitcast as far as a spinning rod, you have to use less of a Hail Mary fling, and more of a tight strong snap shot, if that makes sense.. Your probably over throwing because you're trying to get the same distance as you would a spinning rod.. And you won't be able to
On 3/28/2016 at 4:11 AM, Delaware Valley Tackle said:It's just like learning to throw a ball. It's all about the release point. In your example it's too late. Worst thing you can do is throw hard. If you have to do that to load the Rod it's the wrong tool for the job .
Agree release point to late
Let the rod cast not your arm, your rod is better at it!
A little trick I use on my students learning over hand casting is to roll up a newspaper, tuck it under their arm pit. This forces them to keep their elbow close to their side.
On 3/29/2016 at 3:54 AM, Catt said:Agree release point to late
Let the rod cast not your arm, your rod is better at it!
A little trick I use on my students learning over hand casting is to roll up a newspaper, tuck it under their arm pit. This forces them to keep their elbow close to their side.
I've heard of fly cast instructors using that trick. Letting the tool do the work is good advice too.
Make sure you have enough line out when you start your cast. Not having much line out will make it more difficult to feel the rod load, particularly with a fairly stiff rod. Make sure you make a smooth enough backcast and cast to feel the lure the load the rod both directions.
On 3/29/2016 at 6:07 AM, Delaware Valley Tackle said:I've heard of fly cast instructors using that trick. Letting the tool do the work is good advice too.
An old fly fisherman friend of my dad taught me that trick 50 yrs ago.
When learning an overhand cast use your forearm & wrist not your shoulder.
When using the shoulder you tend to over power the rod.
Thanks, everybody! It is a very stiff MH rod, I'll maybe pick up a more flexible rod soon...
On 3/29/2016 at 3:54 AM, juicebass said:You can't throw a baitcast as far as a spinning rod, you have to use less of a Hail Mary fling, and more of a tight strong snap shot, if that makes sense.. Your probably over throwing because you're trying to get the same distance as you would a spinning rod.. And you won't be able to
This is not really true. Same bait, line, rod raiting and a baitcaster will outcast the spinning setup with a proficient user. It will also cast with less effort and more accuracy.
To the OP. When I was learning, I found out that a quick wip motion worked best for me overhead. I had the same issue when I started with baitcasters.
http://www.bassresource.com/bass-fishing-videos/cast-adjust-baitcast.html
The ol news paper thing should help.
You cant throw it overhand very far without releasing it behind your ear. Release it well behind your ear and follow through, try and be fluid doing it. Start by casting rainbows and then apply some power decreasing the arc and increasing distance. This is all for over the top casting mind you. Its easier to load the rod 3/4.