Slow reels 2024

zelmo reply :

Can someone explain the advantage of using a lower gear ratio for crankbaits? I have never used one so I don't know what you gain.

steezy reply :

Torque

zelmo reply :

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Torque

And that accomplishes what?

The Rooster reply :

It's useful to pull fish in when you have to use the reel as a winch, or to make a crankbait dive deeper since it stays in the water longer due to the slower reel speed and has more time to dive downward. Sometimes a crankbait doesn't achieve it's maximum depth due to the fact that it gets cranked back too quickly. And then sometimes you just want to slow the bait down, such as slowrolling a spinnerbait on the bottom. To me this is easier accomplished by using a slower reel so I don't have to concentrate as much to make myself slow down. I can still reel at a comfortable pace while knowing my bait isn't going faster than I want it to. Those are the uses I see for slower speed reels.

Al Wolbach reply :

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Quote
Torque

And that accomplishes what?

It is much easier to crank, especially important with the deep divers.............Al

J Francho reply :

Its overrated. I use 5.8:1 reels with divers with no issue. I used to use 6.3:1. Long before that, I had 5:1 reels. I definitely do not like a burner reel, and the super slow reels, like Zillion Crazy Cranker are too slow for me.

.ghoti. reply :

The slowest reels I own are three 5.8:1 Millionaires.

I put up with the slow retrieve because I really like those little round reels. If I could get higher speed gears to fit in those, I'd do it tomorrow.

I bought two 4.4:1 Energy PT's about three years ago, buying into this idea that I needed slow reels for cranking. I used them once before ordering 6.3:1 gears for both.

You do not need more torque for "winching" in the fish. That is pure, unadulterated marketing BS. You play the fish with the rod, not the reel.

If I get to the point where I can't crank a DD22 with one of my higher speed reels, I'll give up this sport, and take up something less strenuous, like needlepoint.

kikstand454 reply :

.ghoti is right. lol.... but i have to admit.. when youre crankin a ledge 20 feet down for 6 hours in 100 degree heat.... your arm gets really tired on a 6.1 or higher.

i think im only into the low gear idea for ease of reeling in bigger lures with more resistance.

just like a bike with 10 speeds.... can you get up the hill in the big speed gear? of course.... but its a hell of alot easier three speeds down.

Hammer 4 reply :

I have a Chronarch, 5:1 I can use it for cranks, but I'd rather use a 6.2:1..the 5:1 is great for swimbaits, which is that reels primary use..

K_Mac reply :

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.ghoti is right. lol.... but i have to admit.. when youre crankin a ledge 20 feet down for 6 hours in 100 degree heat.... your arm gets really tired on a 6.1 or higher.
i think im only into the low gear idea for ease of reeling in bigger lures with more resistance.

just like a bike with 10 speeds.... can you get up the hill in the big speed gear? of course.... but its a hell of alot easier three speeds down.

The thought of spending 6 hrs cranking a 20' ledge in 70 degree weather, let alone 100 degree, is enough to make me take up needlepoint. ;D ;D Course I ain't riding a bike up any hills either. :

Micro reply :

Everyone seems stuck on gear ratio when it is inches-per-turn that is the true measure of a reel's speed.

For instance, the 5.8:1 Daiwa Sol cranks in 23.6 inches per turn. The S L O W Daiwa Zillion High Power (Crazy Cranker) pulls in 22 inches per turn. Not a heck of a lot of difference.

In fact, the Crazy Cranker at 4.9:1 is faster than the Revo Winch at 5.4:1. The Revo pulls in 20.6 inches per turn.

Don't get hung up on gear ratio.

GRiver reply :

I use a 7.1 at 34" per turn( that rating is with full spool BTW), took a little getting used to, but I prefer them now. Just slow it down a bit, works fine for me.

KYntucky Warmouth reply :

I like my Curado E5 for deep cranks and my Sol for shallow cranks, mostly because they match the rods they are on quiet well ;D I've cranked with a high speed before and it feels a little too stressfull on myself and my gear, but I guess it's all in getting used to it. The slower reels don't bother me so I find no real need to change

Al Wolbach reply :

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.ghoti is right. lol.... but i have to admit.. when youre crankin a ledge 20 feet down for 6 hours in 100 degree heat.... your arm gets really tired on a 6.1 or higher.
i think im only into the low gear idea for ease of reeling in bigger lures with more resistance.

just like a bike with 10 speeds.... can you get up the hill in the big speed gear? of course.... but its a hell of alot easier three speeds down.

The thought of spending 6 hrs cranking a 20' ledge in 70 degree weather, let alone 100 degree, is enough to make me take up needlepoint. ;D ;D Course I ain't riding a bike up any hills either. :

We all tend to think and respond to questions/statements based on our style of fishing. I am a tournament fisherman and if I need to deep crank for 8 hrs in a tournament on my knees with the rod 4 ft into the water to gain 4 ft more lure run depth I want a reel that cranks easier. And in the area I live if you want to win any money in the warmer months you must deep crank. But to a totally pleasure fisherman it probably doesn't matter, whatever trips your trigger..............Al

K_Mac reply :

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Quote

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.ghoti is right. lol.... but i have to admit.. when youre crankin a ledge 20 feet down for 6 hours in 100 degree heat.... your arm gets really tired on a 6.1 or higher.
i think im only into the low gear idea for ease of reeling in bigger lures with more resistance.

just like a bike with 10 speeds.... can you get up the hill in the big speed gear? of course.... but its a hell of alot easier three speeds down.

The thought of spending 6 hrs cranking a 20' ledge in 70 degree weather, let alone 100 degree, is enough to make me take up needlepoint. ;D ;D Course I ain't riding a bike up any hills either. :

We all tend to think and respond to questions/statements based on our style of fishing. I am a tournament fisherman and if I need to deep crank for 8 hrs in a tournament on my knees with the rod 4 ft into the water to gain 4 ft more lure run depth I want a reel that cranks easier. And in the area I live if you want to win any money in the warmer months you must deep crank. But to a totally pleasure fisherman it probably doesn't matter, whatever trips your trigger..............Al

Al you make a great point. 8-) My response really didn't address the question posed. If I fished for real money, and cranking deep is what it took to win, I would definitely use a slower speed reel.

Big Bait Fishing reply :

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The slowest reels I own are three 5.8:1 Millionaires.
I put up with the slow retrieve because I really like those little round reels. If I could get higher speed gears to fit in those, I'd do it tomorrow.

I bought two 4.4:1 Energy PT's about three years ago, buying into this idea that I needed slow reels for cranking. I used them once before ordering 6.3:1 gears for both.

You do not need more torque for "winching" in the fish. That is pure, unadulterated marketing BS. You play the fish with the rod, not the reel.

If I get to the point where I can't crank a DD22 with one of my higher speed reels, I'll give up this sport, and take up something less strenuous, like needlepoint.

so true , so true !!! i actually use my REVO SX 7.1:1 reel for deep-diving crankbaits and have no problems whatsoever , if i want to slow it down some , i just crank slower

kikstand454 reply :

Quote

Quote
.ghoti is right. lol.... but i have to admit.. when youre crankin a ledge 20 feet down for 6 hours in 100 degree heat.... your arm gets really tired on a 6.1 or higher.
i think im only into the low gear idea for ease of reeling in bigger lures with more resistance.

just like a bike with 10 speeds.... can you get up the hill in the big speed gear? of course.... but its a hell of alot easier three speeds down.

The thought of spending 6 hrs cranking a 20' ledge in 70 degree weather, let alone 100 degree, is enough to make me take up needlepoint. ;D ;D Course I ain't riding a bike up any hills either. :

hahhaha.... welcome to lake talquin...tallahassee florida.

SWMIBASSER reply :

The 7.1 reels have to give up quite a bit in torque to the 6.3 reels. Maybe not enough that it bothers everyone. I don't know I've never used a 7.1 reel with crankbaits.

If you want a super graphic demonstration of reel torque, throw a deep diving musky crankbait with a high speed reel, and then a slow speed reel.

J Francho reply :

A reel has no torque. Torque is supplied by the user. All things equal, a higher ratio reel requires more torque to move a bait. Whether that is actually too much is a comfort/preference issue, as shown above. Either you like it or you don't.

fish-fighting-illini reply :

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Everyone seems stuck on gear ratio when it is inches-per-turn that is the true measure of a reel's speed.
For instance, the 5.8:1 Daiwa Sol cranks in 23.6 inches per turn. The S L O W Daiwa Zillion High Power (Crazy Cranker) pulls in 22 inches per turn. Not a heck of a lot of difference.

In fact, the Crazy Cranker at 4.9:1 is faster than the Revo Winch at 5.4:1. The Revo pulls in 20.6 inches per turn.

Don't get hung up on gear ratio.

Micro hit it right on the nose.

Also re the whole torque deal, torque might be irrelevant as your drag setting would come into play before you had to worry about torque. ???

SWMIBASSER reply :

Do my test with musky lures. If you can't tell any difference I'll send you $100.

nubasser reply :

Here is just an opinion but I think many will agree.Whatever bait or style you fish buy the tackle which best fits your needs.If you can fish a faster reel with a technique such as cranking and not "over rev the lure"my term for fishing a deep diver too fast thus not getting it to run like it should as long as should.then it may work for you.I own several different speed reels and I actually am starting to like the faster reels for most anything.I'm not as experienced as many of these anglers on here(I'm learning a lot from these fine folks)but I think fish what is comfortable and what works for the fish.

Catt reply :

FYI

Paul Elias: 5:1 gear ratio

David Fritts: 5.2:1 gear ratio

Mark Davis: 5.2:1 gear ratio

SWMIBASSER reply :

Quote
FYI
Paul Elias: 5:1 gear ratio

David Fritts: 5.2:1 gear ratio

Mark Davis: 5.2:1 gear ratio

FYI

Kevin VanDam 6.3.1

I think we know how KVD stacks up to those guys.

Catt reply :

About even

Chris reply :

Actually David uses a slower reel 4.3.1 and Clunn uses a fast reel. 4.3 to 1 is a little to slow for me.

When you take a reel and fill it to full capacity of line and also the pound test you use effects how fast the lure speeds up towards the end of your retrieve. As the line stacks, your reel is picking up more line per turn causing your bait to run faster towards the end of your retrieve. Depending on the line you use torque is displaced by line stretch or drag slip. Your reel handle length also changes how fast you reel in your lure out side of gear ratio. The more torque you put on a crankbait the shallower the bait will run because your forcing it to swim and dive. Crankbait fishermen use a low gear ratio to help them slow down their retrieve. If torque was an issue how much torque does a bass put on your equipment? Do you think the bass puts more strain on your reel than a crankbait? Do you still have enough torque to wench it in? The slower you reel a crankbait the more time you give it to dig deep. The more you torque the bait to you the less it will dive. Some guys can take a high gear reel and know how to slow it down other guys like me need to be reminded What most crankbait fishermen complain about is vibration transfer into the hand. The more bearings you have in a reel the less vibration transfer you will have. The bearings make the spool less wobbly so if you have a vibrating crankbait the vibration is deadened because of the bearings. Your worm gear and paul also will deaden vibration transfer along with a thick side plate or a spool that has to much crap on the palm side of the reel. You want a reel that has the spool that butts up against the side plate to get the best vibration transfer. The need for a slow reel is more of a personal preference than a real need unless your like me and need a reminder to slow down.

zelmo reply :

Quote
When you take a reel and fill it to full capacity of line and also the pound test you use effects how fast the lure speeds up towards the end of your retrieve. As the line stacks, your reel is picking up more line per turn causing your bait to run faster towards the end of your retrieve. Depending on the line you use torque is displaced by line stretch or drag slip. Your reel handle length also changes how fast you reel in your lure out side of gear ratio. The more torque you put on a crankbait the shallower the bait will run because your forcing it to swim and dive. Crankbait fishermen use a low gear ratio to help them slow down their retrieve. If torque was an issue how much torque does a bass put on your equipment? Do you think the bass puts more strain on your reel than a crankbait? Do you still have enough torque to wench it in? The slower you reel a crankbait the more time you give it to dig deep. The more you torque the bait to you the less it will dive. Some guys can take a high gear reel and know how to slow it down other guys like me need to be reminded What most crankbait fishermen complain about is vibration transfer into the hand. The more bearings you have in a reel the less vibration transfer you will have. The bearings make the spool less wobbly so if you have a vibrating crankbait the vibration is deadened because of the bearings. Your worm gear and paul also will deaden vibration transfer along with a thick side plate or a spool that has to much crap on the palm side of the reel. You want a reel that has the spool that butts up against the side plate to get the best vibration transfer. The need for a slow reel is more of a personal preference than a real need unless your like me and need a reminder to slow down.

Wow, I sure have learned a lot from this thread. Thanks for all of the replies.

So Chris, what reels have the characteristics you listed?

I guess I need to take Crankbaits 101. I didn't know that going slow made the bait go deeper. I actually thought you were supposed to reel fast initially to get it to dive. So that is not correct?

SWMIBASSER reply :

Quote
Actually David uses a slower reel 4.3.1 and Clunn uses a fast reel. 4.3 to 1 is a little to slow for me.
When you take a reel and fill it to full capacity of line and also the pound test you use effects how fast the lure speeds up towards the end of your retrieve. As the line stacks, your reel is picking up more line per turn causing your bait to run faster towards the end of your retrieve. Depending on the line you use torque is displaced by line stretch or drag slip. Your reel handle length also changes how fast you reel in your lure out side of gear ratio. The more torque you put on a crankbait the shallower the bait will run because your forcing it to swim and dive. Crankbait fishermen use a low gear ratio to help them slow down their retrieve. If torque was an issue how much torque does a bass put on your equipment? Do you think the bass puts more strain on your reel than a crankbait? Do you still have enough torque to wench it in? The slower you reel a crankbait the more time you give it to dig deep. The more you torque the bait to you the less it will dive. Some guys can take a high gear reel and know how to slow it down other guys like me need to be reminded What most crankbait fishermen complain about is vibration transfer into the hand. The more bearings you have in a reel the less vibration transfer you will have. The bearings make the spool less wobbly so if you have a vibrating crankbait the vibration is deadened because of the bearings. Your worm gear and paul also will deaden vibration transfer along with a thick side plate or a spool that has to much crap on the palm side of the reel. You want a reel that has the spool that butts up against the side plate to get the best vibration transfer. The need for a slow reel is more of a personal preference than a real need unless your like me and need a reminder to slow down.

This is why the Musky fishing guys many times opt for the large 6000 series and some for the 7000 series ABU round reels.

A LONG cast doesn't strip much line and helps to maintain a consistant speed.

Also a larger diameter spool helps to increase line per turn speed.

That is how Abu 4600 c4's at 6.3.1 pick up 31" of line. The same amount of line most low profile 7.1.1 reels pick up.

Chris reply :

Wow, I sure have learned a lot from this thread. Thanks for all of the replies.

So Chris, what reels have the characteristics you listed?

I guess I need to take Crankbaits 101. I didn't know that going slow made the bait go deeper. I actually thought you were supposed to reel fast initially to get it to dive. So that is not correct?

It depends on the crankbait and how it is weighted and the posture it has at the waters surface. Years ago when Lee Sisson was building Bagley crankbaits he developed a lead button that was attached under the line tie. This put the lip in a downward posture that made the bait dive on the first crank. The angle of the dive effects the rate the lure reaches it's max depth. Rapala and other companies adopted this idea. Lures that have a different angle might need to be started to get the bait at it's dive angle. After you get the lure to dig the water a slower retrieve helps it continue to dive. I generally use older reels because as the years have gone by manufacturers have added things that I feel get in the way of direct contact with my lures vibration. Garcia yo yo reels would be a good example, old Daiwa, old Shimano, Lews, David Fritts had a decent reel made by Bass Pro. Also understand my old reels have been updated so they are not what they where when I bought them.

NBR reply :

It's mechanical advantage like in a lever. The longer the lever arm from the pivot place the easier it is to lift something. In gearing the lower the gear ratio the longer the lever arm and the easier to crank. I don't crank deep so I don't have any low gear ratio reels.

Chris reply :

http://www.basspro.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product_10151_-1_10001_90570____SearchResults[highlight

"extra power on the retrieve."

David Fritts

1993 Bassmaster Classic® Champion

The first word out of our Product Development Manager's mouth: ''This reel casts a honkin' mile!'' The pros, customers, everybody -- they can't get over how far they can put their lure; it'll outcast any other reel! The reason? This reel has a taller, slightly heavier spool and a consistently narrower line angle, which generates incredible inertia on the cast -- so not only can you cast big cranks all day without undue arm strain, you can also position your boat farther from the target. The extra-long aluminum handle adds power to your crankin' stroke, giving you the leverage to horse that lunker in from a distance. And we've designed a powerful drag system which produces up to 10 lbs. of drag pressure. Machined-aluminum frame and spool; graphite side-plates; 4-bearing system with double-shielded premium stainless steel ball bearings; 6-pin centrifugal cast control. DF10HC has PowerLock instant anti-reverse; other models have dual-pawl anti-reverse. "

''This reel casts a honkin' mile!'' The longer you can cast the more depth your bait will run.

The extra-long aluminum handle adds power to your crankin' stroke, giving you the leverage to horse that lunker in from a distance.

This is your lever and what makes cranking hard pulling crankbaits easier to crank.

And we've designed a powerful drag system which produces up to 10 lbs. of drag pressure.

A good drag prevents a lure from pulling drag on the retrieve which effects the max running depth on your lure. This also gives you direct contact with your lure.

4-bearing system with double-shielded premium stainless steel ball bearings

The more bearings you put in a reel the less vibration transfer you have. The bearings begin to get in the way of transferring vibration to the side plate on the palm side.

DF10HC has PowerLock instant anti-reverse; other models have dual-pawl anti-reverse. "

This reduces slop in the worm gear and beefs up durability.

I own the older model of this reel which is 4.3 to 1. I actually replaced the gear in the reel with a higher gear ratio because like I said it wasn't for me. This model now is not offered in the lower gear because it didn't sell well. When I asked David Fritts in person he said that he changed the handle on the reel he has because it didn't feel right with an old Lews handle. This was with the first reel BPS came out with not this model up above. I personally own high dollar reels Team Diawa, Shimano Chronarch, to name a few. So I don't want to give the impression that I choose the older style reels for cranking from being cheap because that isn't the case. With most people you have a certain rhythm that you have grown accustomed to reeling at. Most people have a hard time remembering to slow down with deep cranking so when they pick up a low gear reel it forces them to slow down without changing the retrieve rhythm that you have grown accustomed to with your higher gear reels.

kikstand454 reply :

what are you guys talking about?

who...if anyone uses a lower gear just to reel your lure slower? just reel a high gear reel slower.

deep crankers use a lower gear ratio because it has more torque and more power to counter the resistance that a 3/4 or 1oz. lure pulling against you in 19ft of water gives you.

apparently noone got the bicycle refrence earlier... so im going to go with this... its a "towing gear". just like youre transmission shifts down when more load is placed on it in order to pull it and use the same rpms.... such the same is slowing your reel gears down to crank.

see?

Big Bait Fishing reply :

Quote

Quote
FYI
Paul Elias: 5:1 gear ratio

David Fritts: 5.2:1 gear ratio

Mark Davis: 5.2:1 gear ratio

FYI

Kevin VanDam 6.3.1

I think we know how KVD stacks up to those guys.

KVD uses a 5.1:1 reel .............

Catt reply :

I see a 5.4:1

http://www.quantumfishing.com/products/1885/Tour-KVD.aspx

SWMIBASSER reply :

Quote
http://www.basspro.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product_10151_-1_10001_90570____SearchResults[highlight
"extra power on the retrieve."

David Fritts

1993 Bassmaster Classic® Champion

The first word out of our Product Development Manager's mouth: ''This reel casts a honkin' mile!'' The pros, customers, everybody -- they can't get over how far they can put their lure; it'll outcast any other reel! The reason? This reel has a taller, slightly heavier spool and a consistently narrower line angle, which generates incredible inertia on the cast -- so not only can you cast big cranks all day without undue arm strain, you can also position your boat farther from the target. The extra-long aluminum handle adds power to your crankin' stroke, giving you the leverage to horse that lunker in from a distance. And we've designed a powerful drag system which produces up to 10 lbs. of drag pressure. Machined-aluminum frame and spool; graphite side-plates; 4-bearing system with double-shielded premium stainless steel ball bearings; 6-pin centrifugal cast control. DF10HC has PowerLock instant anti-reverse; other models have dual-pawl anti-reverse. "

''This reel casts a honkin' mile!'' The longer you can cast the more depth your bait will run.

The extra-long aluminum handle adds power to your crankin' stroke, giving you the leverage to horse that lunker in from a distance.

This is your lever and what makes cranking hard pulling crankbaits easier to crank.

And we've designed a powerful drag system which produces up to 10 lbs. of drag pressure.

A good drag prevents a lure from pulling drag on the retrieve which effects the max running depth on your lure. This also gives you direct contact with your lure.

4-bearing system with double-shielded premium stainless steel ball bearings

The more bearings you put in a reel the less vibration transfer you have. The bearings begin to get in the way of transferring vibration to the side plate on the palm side.

DF10HC has PowerLock instant anti-reverse; other models have dual-pawl anti-reverse. "

This reduces slop in the worm gear and beefs up durability.

I own the older model of this reel which is 4.3 to 1. I actually replaced the gear in the reel with a higher gear ratio because like I said it wasn't for me. This model now is not offered in the lower gear because it didn't sell well. When I asked David Fritts in person he said that he changed the handle on the reel he has because it didn't feel right with an old Lews handle. This was with the first reel BPS came out with not this model up above. I personally own high dollar reels Team Diawa, Shimano Chronarch, to name a few. So I don't want to give the impression that I choose the older style reels for cranking from being cheap because that isn't the case. With most people you have a certain rhythm that you have grown accustomed to reeling at. Most people have a hard time remembering to slow down with deep cranking so when they pick up a low gear reel it forces them to slow down without changing the retrieve rhythm that you have grown accustomed to with your higher gear reels.

These really are great reels. It would be nice to have an external cast control adjustment, but otherwise I really like them.

By design however, they are a larger diameter reel than what some are used too. This of course was on purpose but still something to be aware of.

The 4bbl is misleading as the real is very smooth.

I have one on an older 7ft Tim Horton Pflueger crankbait rod and this real literally casts farther than anything I have ever seen.

Big Bait Fishing reply :

Quote
I see a 5.4:1
http://www.quantumfishing.com/products/1885/Tour-KVD.aspx

if you notice when he casts , he actually uses a energy pt 5.1:1 reel , i have seen it on many occasions , but he might switch to the tour pt sometimes ....

SWMIBASSER reply :

Quote

Quote
I see a 5.4:1
http://www.quantumfishing.com/products/1885/Tour-KVD.aspx

if you notice when he casts , he actually uses a energy pt 5.1:1 reel , i have seen it on many occasions , but he might switch to the tour pt sometimes ....

Not only did I not know that they made the slower reels (I guess I just don't pay attention to Quantum) I thought I read, or heard in an interview, that he used the 6.3 reels.

If I didn't then I stand corrected.

K_Mac reply :

I saw VanDam (on TV) fishing one of the BASS tourneys this year (at Kentucky Lake I think). He talked specifically about the right equipment for deep cranking. He was promoting his new prototype crankbait rod. He was using was a 7'8" rod with the lower speed reel. He said it was important to use a long rod for distance and the slower reel for control as I recall. I was going to check my facts, but I have erased the footage. :

SWMIBASSER reply :

From a Strike King Journal interview

Question: How were the fish positioned, and how were you working the bait?

VanDam: There wasn't much current coming through the dam because we hadn't had much rain, but there was enough wind to create a current. If there was current from the wind, the bass would be holding on the top edge of the ledge. I cast the crankbait out and reeled it until it was hitting the top edge of the ledge. I think the critical key in my lure presentation was that I was reeling the bait fast. I thought that reeling the bait fast in the summertime would trigger the inactive bass to bite. I was using a 5:1 baitcasting reel, but I was cranking fast and hard to get that reaction bite.

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