Overhead Cast With Baitcaster 2024

toddwchandler reply :

I picked up my first bait casting setup towards the end of last season. I got to where I could cast my lures side armed without too much trouble. The issue that I am having is that every time I try to do an overhead cast, I get nasty backlash.

I have not had a Baitcaster long enough to have figured out the tricks to clearing a backlash. I have watched the videos on YouTube, but for some reason I can never clear my backlashes like the guys in the videos. This leads to me having to cut line, eat up a bunch of time, and generally getting ticked off. Anyway, I digress.

So my main question is, what is wrong with my technique that is causing backlash on every overhead cast? My secondary question is, does anybody have a tried and true method of clearing backlash that will not make me want to throw things and cuss?

wisconsin heat reply :

This technique works surprisingly well, maybe 60% of the time for me.

Also, I would set your brakes a little bit higher on your reel until you get a little more practice in.

tbone1993 reply :

Step 1: learn to properly set your brakes and tune your reel for your bait. Tons of videos on that

step 2: rod / reel/ bait combo. Try casting a 1/2oz jig or something heavy to learn how to feather the bait properly

step 3: practice and practice.

step4: if all else fails check your line and rod. 25lb big game isnt going to cast as well as a newer softer 10-12lb line.

Bigchunk reply :

In my opinion, for learning, use braid, backlashes usually always come out, mono will kink and break. Also cheaper reels make it alot more difficult to learn, not sure what your using, like tbone said use heavier bait. If your tryimg to cast 1/4 oz lure on a heavier rod your going to have issues

Ozark_Basser reply :

Heres another way too look at it. Its all about how the weight of the bait loads and unloads off the rod. If you cast overhead with a quick "jerky" cast, you're not allowing the rod to load properly so its not going to benefit your cast. All it will do is cause line to come off the spool too fast for the bait coming off the rod causing an overrun. If you cast with an extremely slow motion, you won't backlash, but you won't get any distance either. Its all about the finding the happy medium which is a fluid motion of rearing back, feeling the rod load, and casting out just hard enough for the rod to benefit the cast the most. Let your rod do the work more than your arms.

tbone1993 reply :

On 2/19/2015 at 1:56 PM, Bigchunk said:
In my opinion, for learning, use braid, backlashes usually always come out, mono will kink and break. Also cheaper reels make it alot more difficult to learn, not sure what your using, like tbone said use heavier bait. If your tryimg to cast 1/4 oz lure on a heavier rod your going to have issues

Yep braid is easier to learn on but learning to get those Vs out of fluoro and mono is a skill that takes time. Forgot to mention that when you put your line on you have to make sure it goes on somewhat tight. If its lose it will roll over on itself burying the snag.

mjseverson24 reply :

the overhead cast is best used for distance casting, typically when you want precision casting a roll cast, or pitch is much better suited for these duties. to complete a successful overhand cast your launch angle and release point have to be correct, usually it will overrun when you cast at a downward angle, but if you cast with and out and up approach you will have much more success with the overhand cast... not saying you cannot cast down with this approach it just takes more time to learn how to, and honestly i dont see a good time or place for an overhand precision downward angled cast...

Mitch

ThatFishin'Guy reply :

Can't really comment on the over head casts as I am still a beginner with casting gear but for backlashes, the best advice I can give you though is to be patient. I don't know how many times I've gotten frustrated at a backlash and tried pulling on it harder to untangle it only for it to bury a knot and ruin half a spool of line. Usually when I take my time picking them out, it doesn't take any longer than 20 seconds. Also adjusting your breaks is key.

edfitzvb reply :

A few things to consider:

1.) The overheard cast is the most accurate for most people but it is the easiest to throw backlashes because if you release too late a backlash is pretty much guaranteed, whereas with a sidearm cast the casting accuracy is off line if release is incorrect, but overrun is seldom a problem

2.) Tightening the drag and reeling against the drag while holding the spool to clear tangles works about 90% of the time, although in some cases you have to do it multiple times. A bad overrun could take 8-10 tries to completely clear

3.) Learn the braking systems in your reel. Set them for better control until you have fished for some time with a baitcaster. There is a learning curve involved, but the comfort, accuracy, and power are worth it.

Good luck to you, and keep at it. Success will come.

scaleface reply :

Release it earlier. Aim at the sun .

Bankbeater reply :

Don't try to cast a mile. That always gets me in trouble.

Master Bait'r reply :

Dude the easiest way to really learn the thumb is to start off thumb heavy. Don't even take it off when casting, just give tension the whole time... Then taper it off until you've found what works consistently if you can't get the spool tension and brakes just right.

Don't try to cast too hard though- when you really whip the tip it creates super high spool speeds and can lead to huge backlashes. Be smooth above all.

Fishes in trees reply :

A long time ago, when I started learning on a bait caster, there were a few articles here and there in fishing magazines, but I really didn't have a teacher or much instruction, I had to figure it out on my own.

Coming from spinning gear, as my spinning casting skills improved, I was more and more able to deliver "line drive" type casts, straight to the target.

Casting with bait casters, you've got to lose that "line drive" mentality and visualize your casts in curves and arcs. You have to learn how to feel the rod loading. If the rest of your casting process isn't in synch with the rod loading, backlashes will happen.

A switch to straight handle rods was a blessing to me, because it let me cast with two hands easier. For me, especially in overhead casts, where I am going for distance, two handed casts are critical.

For me, the instant you feel the rod want to go forward, it is a coordinated push/pull/ thumb release movement.

The back cast loads the rod. (two hands make a sharper, more forceful back cast ) The instant you feel the rod want to go forward, you help it, by pushing with your top hand and pulling with the lower hand, thumb releases the spool, and if done correctly, lure sails in a modest arc out toward your target.

I don't know how to explain it any better than that. With the exception of pitching, where I start out with one hand on the rod (with thumb on the reel) and my other hand holding the bait, most of my casting is done two handed, using some variation of the push/pull motion. You can do it sidearm, three quarters more or less over wither shoulder, directly overhead, whatever.

Some rods are easier to load and to feel than others, but the principle is the same no matter what power or action of rod you choose. At this point I think that you just need to practice some in the back yard and find a technique that works for you. Buy a bulk spool of cheaper mono and you won't feel so bad about backlashes. You are going to get back lashes in the learning process.

new2BC4bass reply :

What rod, reel, line, lure(s) and lure weight are you using? Is your side arm cast a roll cast or straight lines? Like FIT said, you can't snap cast like when using a spinning rod. A roll cast will keep the tip loaded throughout the cast, and helps smooth out the rod reversal. Smoothness being critical with baitcast reels for the beginner since his thumb isn't trained yet. Smooth is better even for those with a well trained thumb.

The overhead cast is more accurate for me than a sidearm cast. However, I don't see any difference in casting distance between the 2 although the overhead was longer when I was learning. Last year I started trying to make a slight roll on the overhead cast to smooth it out. It does hurt accuracy...for me anyway.

I hardly ever make a one handed cast.

One reason I asked about the gear you are using is to see not only if you are balancing the outfit, but to see what reel you are using. I was told that I had overtightened my cast control on my Daiwas. This was when I was learning. I had sent them out to be cleaned. The guy told me I could damage the plastic when using too much spool tension on my Daiwas. He couldn't cast a 1/4 oz. lure with my Fuego until he loosened spool tension.

Which brings up another point. Too tight spool tension means you have to cast harder to get any distance. Casting hard when learning is a no-no.

The occasional backlash is inevitable. Crap happens. Lots of practice minimizes the occurrences.

Thornback reply :

All excellent advise. I love the overhead cast when I want distance -- make sure you do a full arc. Like a flywheel effect. I'll add that I use a dental pic to pick out back lashes and it does the job very quickly.

lecisnith reply :

I learned on an Abu Garcia Blackmax2. I spooled it originally with flourocarbon, which I promptly had to cut out because I had NO IDEA what I was doing. Went and picked up a 300 yard spool of 25# south bend mono for three bucks and practiced in my back yard with a 1/2 ounce sinker, adjusting brakes and tension until I found my sweet spot. It took me a long time to figure out I had to rely on the rod for distance rather than trying to Nolan Ryan it out there. You will probably find that a sidearm cast is your best bet for a happy medium of accuracy, distance, and ease of movement. Overhead casts, I find, seem to have an odd release point and I end up trying to strong-arm it. You should be able to make an accurate cast up to 35-40 yards or more from sidearm without a whole lot of effort. And, finally, if you're having trouble with overhead casts, just stick to what works...

buzzed bait reply :

you backlashing early or late in the cast? if early on, adjust the brakes. if the backlash seems to be occurring towards the end of the cast, adjust the cast control/spool tension knob.

for what it's worth, i never really over head that much. i find the best cast is a nice fluid one more so than a jerk or snap motion that an overhead produces for me.

probably also has A LOT to do with the fact that over head casts and kayaks with crates in the rear are mortal enemies!!

new2BC4bass reply :

On 2/19/2015 at 9:59 PM, lecisnith said:
I learned on an Abu Garcia Blackmax2. I spooled it originally with flourocarbon, which I promptly had to cut out because I had NO IDEA what I was doing. Went and picked up a 300 yard spool of 25# south bend mono for three bucks and practiced in my back yard with a 1/2 ounce sinker, adjusting brakes and tension until I found my sweet spot. It took me a long time to figure out I had to rely on the rod for distance rather than trying to Nolan Ryan it out there. You will probably find that a sidearm cast is your best bet for a happy medium of accuracy, distance, and ease of movement. Overhead casts, I find, seem to have an odd release point and I end up trying to strong-arm it. You should be able to make an accurate cast up to 35-40 yards or more from sidearm without a whole lot of effort. And, finally, if you're having trouble with overhead casts, just stick to what works...

I'm surprised the memory of 25# mono didn't drive you bonkers. I'd suggest starting with a soft 12# mono such as Sufix Elite or Trilene XL or Sunline Super Natural.

CYP reply :

I ran into this same issue last year. After some patience and practice I could do it just as easily as sidearm. Just keep at it, you will get it. The thing that really worked great for me was not overdoing it. With spinning gear you can whip the hell out of it overhand. Not so much, at least not for me with casting.

tholmes reply :

On 2/19/2015 at 2:14 PM, mjseverson24 said:

the overhead cast is best used for distance casting, typically when you want precision casting a roll cast, or pitch is much better suited for these duties. to complete a successful overhand cast your launch angle and release point have to be correct, usually it will overrun when you cast at a downward angle, but if you cast with and out and up approach you will have much more success with the overhand cast... not saying you cannot cast down with this approach it just takes more time to learn how to, and honestly i dont see a good time or place for an overhand precision downward angled cast...

Mitch

On 2/19/2015 at 7:09 PM, scaleface said:
Release it earlier. Aim at the sun .

This is an often overlooked component of casting a baitcasteing reel. It's different than casting with a spinning reel because with a baitcaster, the revolving spool takes a very small amount of time to start moving as opposed to a fixed-spool spinning (or spincasting) reel. Your release point must be adjusted to compensate for this.

Tom

lecisnith reply :

On 2/19/2015 at 10:34 PM, new2BC4bass said:
I'm surprised the memory of 25# mono didn't drive you bonkers. I'd suggest starting with a soft 12# mono such as Sufix Elite or Trilene XL or Sunline Super Natural.

Oh, I was bonkers long before that. Didn't help matters much. But I had five bucks in my pocket and got out of work early. Decided to go home and practice practice practice. I figured a higher test line would be best for the sinker getting snagged in the weeds in the vacant lot next to my house. This was before I knew much about things like memory, and line diameter affecting casting distance. Last year was a good learning year for me.

Delaware Valley Tackle reply :

Peel off 100' of line and run a strip of electrical tape around the spool. This is a safety net that will keep any backlash from getting too deep. Keep your casting stroke smooth letting the rod do the work. Horsing or muscling a cast is the quickest way to get in trouble. Just like throwing, the release point is critical: Too early = sky launch too late = dirt. Keep some thumb pressure on the spool and you'll get a feel for how much. Stop the spool before the bait hits the water.

Choporoz reply :

Overhead, ya gotta be smooth......for a while, you'll need to think "smooth" every single cast....you'll forget once and bam, instant backlash.....smooth, smooth, smooth....doesn't take much of a hitch in your swing and bam....birdsnest

ABW reply :

When I do an overhead I always try to release as soon as my hands get past my head

toddwchandler reply :

Thanks for all of the great advice!

I am using an Abu Garcia Silvermax reel on a Veritas 7' rod.

I think that one of the main things I am seeing that I am doing wrong is not "thumbing" the line as it goes out. I was under the impression for some reason that I should let the line spool off freely and then gently brake it with my thumb prior to the lure hitting the water. I was not aware that I needed to have some contact with the line the entire time.

Also, I think that my release angle is messed up. I think I am waiting too long to lift my thumb and let line spool off, resulting in the lure crashing hard into the water and backlashing. I'll get back out in the yard and practice more.

Thanks for all of the great advice!

QUAKEnSHAKE reply :

On 2/20/2015 at 2:03 AM, toddwchandler said:

Thanks for all of the great advice!

I am using an Abu Garcia Silvermax reel on a Veritas 7' rod.

I think that one of the main things I am seeing that I am doing wrong is not "thumbing" the line as it goes out. I was under the impression for some reason that I should let the line spool off freely and then gently brake it with my thumb prior to the lure hitting the water. I was not aware that I needed to have some contact with the line the entire time.

Also, I think that my release angle is messed up. I think I am waiting too long to lift my thumb and let line spool off, resulting in the lure crashing hard into the water and backlashing. I'll get back out in the yard and practice more.

Thanks for all of the great advice!

Yes and No on this just depends on that particular cast.

On long casts many times there is NO thumb needed til water contact, line may run a bit during the cast but letting it work its way out is possible. This is where familiarity/experience come into play. On short fast casts thumbing feathering the spool may come into play more.

kcdinkerz reply :

Turn your reel sideways.

Blues19 reply :

Don't throw it as hard as you can. Also make sure you are casting smooth. Those are two very important things you need to keep in mind while learning. It takes time but soon you will get better. And with every backlash, you get better at takiing those out too. So the more you practice, the more you get better with two things.

ytail reply :

Basically you need to have an educated thumb. I would try to put your thumb on the spool at all time while casting and don't cast too hard initially. Once you manage to get good casts then gradually reduce the thumb pressure on the spool and increase the casting force. Step by step I think you will eventually get much better. Good luck.

To clear the bird nest may want to bring a tooth pick or something like it.

On 2/19/2015 at 12:51 PM, toddwchandler said:
I picked up my first bait casting setup towards the end of last season. I got to where I could cast my lures side armed without too much trouble. The issue that I am having is that every time I try to do an overhead cast, I get nasty backlash.

I have not had a Baitcaster long enough to have figured out the tricks to clearing a backlash. I have watched the videos on YouTube, but for some reason I can never clear my backlashes like the guys in the videos. This leads to me having to cut line, eat up a bunch of time, and generally getting ticked off. Anyway, I digress.

So my main question is, what is wrong with my technique that is causing backlash on every overhead cast? My secondary question is, does anybody have a tried and true method of clearing backlash that will not make me want to throw things and cuss?

Ozark_Basser reply :

On 2/19/2015 at 6:26 PM, edfitzvb said:
2.) Tightening the drag and reeling against the drag while holding the spool to clear tangles works about 90% of the time, although in some cases you have to do it multiple times. A bad overrun could take 8-10 tries to completely clear

This is absolutely the fastest way to get a bad backlash out.

lecisnith reply :

edfitzvb, on 19 Feb 2015 - 05:26 AM, said:

On 2/20/2015 at 10:37 AM, Toad Mode said:
This is absolutely the fastest way to get a bad backlash out.

No s***? That should make my life a little easier.

Mattfrom_NJ reply :

This video by Daiwa helped me

Tharnaux reply :

On 2/19/2015 at 10:34 PM, new2BC4bass said:

I'm surprised the memory of 25# mono didn't drive you bonkers. I'd suggest starting with a soft 12# mono such as Sufix Elite or Trilene XL or Sunline Super Natural.

I just ordered myself a black max myself. I put on 20lb braided line on to it. Had a bad birds nest when I first tested it. I was stupid to try overhead cast as the first time. So I'm currently learning to use it...learning the tension and all that (btw my first baitcaster) definitely following this arrival for more tips

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