So while it's too cold to fish, I'm playing barbie-doll house with my tackle. I have a couple reels with mono and fluoro that I spooled this summer. I recall snagging them both and pulled on them hard to get my lures back, ending up with either bent out hooks on the light wire stuff, or snapping the line (which happens most of the time).
My gut tells me that I probably stretched out 20-30 yards of line to the point where the line strength is reduced, and maybe I should remove that line to be safe.
What do you guys do? Use the line and take the risk, respool, or cut out the stretched line?
I saw a study, and it's been talked about on here, about fluoro's inability to "snap back" after being streched so yes on cutting it back. I wouldn't worry about the mono. My 2 cents.
On 12/7/2018 at 11:45 PM, Todd2 said:I saw a study, and it's been talked about on here, about fluoro's inability to "snap back" after being streched so yes on cutting it back. I wouldn't worry about the mono. My 2 cents.
Do you recall the name of that study? I tried google and I mostly just see knot breaking tests with fluoro.
I think it may have been mentioned on TackleTour's reviews of flourocarbon lines.
There is some evidence that pre-stretching mono can actually increase its ultimate breaking strength:
https://bassblaster.rocks/science-do-you-pre-stretch-your-fishing-line
On 12/7/2018 at 11:39 PM, Junger said:. I have a couple reels with mono and fluoro that I spooled this summer
I would have re-spooled 2 or 3 times since then.
I generally re-spool every other trip ????
On 12/8/2018 at 12:38 AM, Catt said:
I would have re-spooled 2 or 3 times since then.
I generally re-spool every other trip ????
Do you re-spool every other trip based on personal preferences or because of a specific reason such as stretched line?
Curious because maybe I'm doing it wrong, but I only lost one fish on a hookset this year and it was on frayed line near the knot that I knew I should have re-tied.
On 12/8/2018 at 12:07 AM, new2BC4bass said:I think it may have been mentioned on TackleTour's reviews of flourocarbon lines.
Yeah, that was it.
On 12/8/2018 at 12:45 AM, Junger said:Do you re-spool every other trip based on personal preferences or because of a specific reason such as stretched line?
Curious because maybe I'm doing it wrong, but I only lost one fish on a hookset this year and it was on frayed line near the knot that I knew I should have re-tied.
You're fishing monofilament & fluorocarbon why would you not want it at 100%?
It's called peace of mind!
Lose a bass of a lifetime simply because I don't change my line!
I don't think so ????
On 12/8/2018 at 1:42 AM, Catt said:
You're fishing monofilament & fluorocarbon why would you not want it at 100%?
It's called peace of mind!
Lose a bass of a lifetime simply because I don't change my line!
I don't think so ????
OK, that's what I'm kind of getting at in my original post. I may switch some of my rods to braid + long fluoro leader to keep that peace of mind too. Do you do full fluoro respools? That would be costly!
I think I found the Tackle Tour fluoro review and where it talks about elongation: http://www.tackletour.com/reviewfpiintropg2.html
They do not directly test a stretched fluoro line vs the original line breaking strength though.
This should be good. I'm gonna put more butter on my pop corn and try to stay out of this one, it's gonna be hard...
On 12/8/2018 at 2:05 AM, Junger said:Do you do full fluoro respools? That would be costly!
Initially, yes, but if you consider I have left both Tatsu and Invisx spooled on a reel, and in heavy use for up to four seasons, it's far less than regular nylon mono.
I change out my mono about two to three times a year depending on the rod, but it's cheap, so change as often as you like.
The #1 reason for line failure in my opinion is the knot....retie often and then some.
@Junger At this present time I have one rod spooled with braid & one with Yo-Zuri Hybrid. Everything else is Berkley Big Game.
I haven't found a fluorocarbon I like but Seaguar Tatsu is next up.
I do a full re-spool everytime!
I do not do backing with braid; keep in mind I use 100 series reels or smaller.
I do not use leaders with braid; I'm in heavy cover daily.
On 12/8/2018 at 4:33 AM, J Francho said:Initially, yes, but if you consider I have left both Tatsu and Invisx spooled on a reel, and in heavy use for up to four seasons, it's far less than regular nylon mono.
If you stretched out the fluoro, would you respool? I think Catt is saying he does a respool every other trip...doing a full respool every other trip for me would get out of hand cost wise!
On 12/8/2018 at 4:35 AM, Todd2 said:I change out my mono about two to three times a year depending on the rod, but it's cheap, so change as often as you like.
The #1 reason for line failure in my opinion is the knot....retie often and then some.
Same, I have 1200 yards of mono spools so I don't mind changing them out 2-3 times a year, but I only use mono on 2 reels...maybe I need to change that.
On 12/8/2018 at 4:23 AM, reason said:This should be good. I'm gonna put more butter on my pop corn and try to stay out of this one, it's gonna be hard...
I can feel you twitching from 20910.
On 12/8/2018 at 4:39 AM, Catt said:@Junger At this present time I have one rod spooled with braid & one with Yo-Zuri Hybrid. Everything else is Berkley Big Game.
I haven't found a fluorocarbon I like but Seaguar Tatsu is next up.
I do a full re-spool everytime!
I do not do backing with braid; keep in mind I use 100 series reels or smaller.
I do not use leaders with braid; I'm in heavy cover daily.
OK, that makes more sense...way more economical than straight fluoro. But yeah, I use mono on my popper rod and changed that out once this summer after I saw weird kinks in the line in the first 20 yards.
On 12/8/2018 at 4:40 AM, Junger said:If you stretched out the fluoro, would you respool?
No, I'd peel off 20 yards or so. Typically this is not an issue with light lines like 6# since they break off quickly at the knot. With heavier lines, I'm likely to use a lure knocker, or go over and get as close to snag before trying to break off.
Y'all need understand I'm down South fishing every kind of vegetation & wood imaginable.
The average daily tournament stringers down here are 18-23 lbs with many going both sides of 30.
The weakest link is your line, either at the knot or anywhere up the line.
On 12/8/2018 at 4:57 AM, Catt said:The average daily tournament stringers down here are 18-23 lbs with many going both sides of 30.
Are they really usually only 18-23? It takes that to win up here, on most lakes.
My understanding is that an stretch and return of the line (elasticity) is not detrimental to the line and is normal behavior for mono lines. It is the stretching of the line that causes the line to become elongated and smaller in diameter that damages the line. A stretch on the line that does not return to its original shape (plasticity). I've been told that monos exhibit elasticity as normal behavior at light loads and only stretch and break once the line is stretched to the point where the line deforms. Allegedly 100% flourocarbon lines have low elasticity and high plasticity meaning that they stretch and return less at light loads but are more easily stretched to a point where the line becomes elongated due to the higher plasticity of the polymer. I'm sure in reality your mileage may vary but his is how I understand "momos" to be different from 100% flouro lines in regards to stretch.
On 12/8/2018 at 5:46 AM, J Francho said:Are they really usually only 18-23? It takes that to win up here, on most lakes.
Usually takes more than that in brown bass over this way . . .
A-Jay
after I spool my mono I tie it to a fixed object and walk about half the spool off and stretch the line to reduce line twist and memory. Never had an issue. Can’t comment on fluoro since I don’t use it
On 12/8/2018 at 5:46 AM, J Francho said:Are they really usually only 18-23? It takes that to win up here, on most lakes.
That's just to cut a check! ????
On 12/8/2018 at 4:39 AM, Catt said:@Junger At this present time I have one rod spooled with braid & one with Yo-Zuri Hybrid. Everything else is Berkley Big Game.
I haven't found a fluorocarbon I like but Seaguar Tatsu is next up.
I do a full re-spool everytime!
I do not do backing with braid; keep in mind I use 100 series reels or smaller.
I do not use leaders with braid; I'm in heavy cover daily.
Tatsu is on sale as we speak at TW,
Tom
On 12/8/2018 at 4:39 AM, Catt said:
I haven't found a fluorocarbon I like but Seaguar Tatsu is next up.
Not to the Dark Side??? Where is Yoda when you need him....lol
I told myself I wasn't gonna reply but....
I use Flouro for everything I throw except for 2 presentations.
Honestly, I don't even think about respooling because the line may be stretched.
I will if I kink it too far down the spool because I wasn't careful enough digging out a backlash or after many lure changes and the spool gets low.
Mike
Fishing from shore wears line more then fishing from a boat because you can't unsnag line by changing direct of the pulling force or get directly over the snag.
Catching bass that weigh less then 1/2 the pound test if the line shouldn't create enough force to strecth the line. If the bass are close to or exceed the pound test of the line then the condition of the line and the knot strength becomes critical.
If you normally use 15 lb test mono or FC over stressing the line by catching bass isn't very common. Over stressing the line by dragging across abrasive surface is common, but pulling on the line to break it when snagged may be the most common abuse to your line.
Fluorocarbon line strecth at the same pulling force as premium mono, the difference is FC line yields permanently and has lower abrasion resistance and knot strength compare to equal diameter mono.
Stressed line should be changed.
Tom
On 12/8/2018 at 9:28 AM, WRB said:Fishing from shore wears line more then fishing from a boat because you can't unsnag line by changing direct of the pulling force or get directly over the snag.
Catching bass that weigh less then 1/2 the pound test if the line shouldn't create enough force to strecth the line. If the bass are close to or exceed the pound test of the line then the condition of the line and the knot strength becomes critical.
If you normally use 15 lb test mono or FC over stressing the line by catching bass isn't very common. Over stressing the line by dragging across abrasive surface is common, but pulling on the line to break it when snagged may be the most common abuse to your line.
Fluorocarbon line strecth at the same pulling force as premium mono, the difference is FC line yields permanently and has lower abrasion resistance and knot strength compare to equal diameter mono.
Stressed line should be changed.
Tom
So how is one supposed to break off from shore? If fishing mono and you pull to break off the line should be changed?
On 12/8/2018 at 9:34 AM, JustinJ said:So how is one supposed to break off from shore? If fishing mono and you pull to break off the line should be changed?
Change it when you get home. Mono tends to stay off the bottom more the FC line and snags less often. Fishing from shore I always use Berkley Big Game, it very abrasion resistant, good knot strength and important to me inexpensive so it's no issue changing it often.
The more expensive mono like Sunline Defier Armillo I use only boat fishing.
Tom
On 12/8/2018 at 9:59 AM, WRB said:Change it when you get home. Mono tends to stay off the bottom more the FC line and snags less often. Fishing from shore I always use Berkley Big Game, it very abrasion resistant, good knot strength and important to me inexpensive so it's no issue changing it often.
The more expensive mono like Sunline Defier Armillo I use only boat fishing.
Tom
So what you’re saying is every time I snag the bottom with mono I should change my line?
On 12/8/2018 at 12:09 PM, JustinJ said:So what you’re saying is every time I snag the bottom with mono I should change my line?
At least trim it back to before where the snag occurred. That's why I spool up 100+ yards on my mono reels, so I can trim as needed for a while before needing to completely re-spool.
There are a few studies, and like everything else, there are also some conflicting results. The short answer is 'yes,' stretching your line to the point of breaking off has most likely weakened the remaining line. To what degree, the answer becomes, 'it depends.'
With monofilaments (nylon), I've seen two different results. I wrote the article that fissureman referenced on the first page of this thread, and in that example, stretching nylon to 75% of its breaking strain actually increased strength. This is believed to have something to do with lining up the molecular chains, actually making them stronger. However, I recently came across a study on nylon lines that showed anything up to about 1/3 breaking strain has no effect, while anything at 2/3 and above, up until the line actually breaking, does damage/weaken the remaining line, so there is a point where things head south, and that is likely in the 60-80% range.
A similar study I saw in regards to braid showed a more clear result of weakening after breaking. In the case of braid, the line actually recoils upon breaking, often unraveling or at least loosening the weave for the first 3'-4' of remaining line. So with braid on a breakoff, the best bet is to clip off about 4 feet of line and then retie.
A final study that had a mix of nylons, copolys and fluorocarbon showed that all line types weakened when pulled until breaking. In this case, they snipped off the last 4 inches, retied and then retested. But, there was a lot of variability. The worst result, which happened to be a fluorocarbon, showed about a 40% loss in strength. The best results showed almost no difference, with only a slight loss in the one to three percent range. On average across the 17 lines tested, the loss in strength was 20%. What they did not report or test was what happened if a larger segment of the end line was cut off and retested. That would have been interesting.
When line breaks, it does so at the weakest spot, and typically through a process called "necking." Theoretically, the most damage would be caused in the immediate area either side of the break since that's where the permanent deformation (definitely) occurred. As such, I would say a good rule of thumb would be, like braid, cut off and remove the last 3'-6' of line after breaking off, then retie and fish. You still might be slightly weaker in strength, but you've probably minimized the worst of the damage. Of course, there are too many variables to know conclusively the condition of the remaining line, so in that regard, replacing a good casts length of line if affordable and practical would be the ultimate safeguard, as has already been suggested.