I can't stand fishing with fluorocarbon line! I've tried it on two of my go to setups (baitcasting and spinning) the past two seasons and ended up cutting it off and going back to my tried and true Trilene XT! If I feel that I need to use floro I just tie a leader onto one of my setups that has braid on it. Am I missing something?
Its just you
On 4/18/2017 at 8:11 AM, MassBassin508 said:Its just you
LOL....thanks!
I see this come up all the time. An op who hates fluorocarbon and a bunch of other posters chime in saying it's impossible to manage. Honestly I just don't get it. I love flouro. I have no problems with manageability, even with some of the tougher lines like shooter.
Obviously use what you want but if flouro seems like something you want to use,stick with it. Eventually you'll figure it out. To me it doesn't handle much different than mono.
I've found the use of kvd line is a big help.
You're not missing a thing. I, too, thought I had to try it because all the cool kids were using it. I got tired of bringing the rods inside the house the night before, spraying the spools the night before, tucking them in at night, spraying them 43.7 minutes before using them, having to troll the line out every 17 casts etc etc etc... All the rituals you have to go through just to use this stuff is unbelievable. And to top it all off I don't think I got a good hookset on a single jig fish because the stuff is like a rubber band. "Oh but fluoro is low stretch"... lmao
I tore it all off and went back to braid/fluoro leader on everything and back to catching fish.
The only thing that stuff is good for is leader material.
I don't use it much anymore, but when I do it's either Tatsu, Flipping, or Finesse Fluoro from Seaguar. Expensive, yes, but excellent lines that handle so much better than other fluoros I've fished.
I use sniper on my weightless plastics and finesse combos. There is no doubt it is more finicky than braid or mono, but it has it's place in my arsenal. Line and lure helps a lot.
same here,just never really could get used to it. Big Game is what I use. or braid.
Yes, you're missing something - the art of casting. But if braid gets the job done for you, then go with it.
No issues with fluoro for me and I almost never use line conditioner. I actually put on 12 Big Game on a crank rod last weekend and didn't like it one bit. If you don't have any problems with XT and braid, stick with it. No sense frustrating yourself if you have something that works for you.
If you have trouble with FC, you are not alone. Some people on this forum probably, based on their posts, spend hundreds of dollars searching for the perfect FC. And in the end, there is nothing about FC for line that is a compelling advantage. It certainly is heavier than the options, so it makes going deep easier. And also screws up using it for surface lures. But its transparency and increased sensitivity advantages, if any, are not compelling. Ask for objective data and you'll most likely come up empty. The data there are on stretch doesn't prove that it has any advantage over mono.
So for me, I just don't fight FC any more, using it only for leaders when I'm using sinking presentations. If I don't want the higher specific gravity, I use hard mono for leaders.
Good for those who are happy with it; I never reached that stage.
I wrote off FC after the initial run came out and anyone who tried those first ones knows why - they were bad.
My Spinning gear applications are all Braid (and leader) No Exceptions - Any & All Nylon there is just a PIA.
Revolving spool tackle is a mix of braid, mono & I've tried a few coploy products; as copoly stocks were exhausted, I chose not to resupply.
As the most recent FC products had reportedly improved, and despite swearing it off, I gave FC another shot (last season).
I found that I liked it for sub-surface moving baits presented on a moderate or moderate fast stick; mostly treble hook baits, spinnerbaits & vibrating jigs.
As long as I am willing to condition the line as needed, re-tie often and of course pay the piper, FC had become a viable tool for me.
That said, FC represents less than 50% of my baits and Braid & Mono share the majority of the work load.
Finally, whenever I am fishing in a place that is known for super large / fish of a life time Trophy Bass, I use Mono.
I just make shorter casts.
A-Jay
You can't be sloppy with fluoro. There's little margin for error, whether it's knots, backlashes, or line twist.
Line is a very personal choice. If someone can't stand one type, and I like it, I'm not offended. I don't think less of the other guy for not liking it. There times one's choice in line makes no sense, but if it's working for them, great. When it doesn't, and they run into problems, that's we are all here for.
Also, @A-Jay is a knuckle-dragger-leader-tying-braid-only-on-spinning.
On 4/18/2017 at 10:32 PM, J Francho said:You can't be sloppy with fluoro. There's little margin for error, whether it's knots, backlashes, or line twist.
Line is a very personal choice. If someone can't stand one type, and I like it, I'm not offended. I don't think less of the other guy for not liking it. There times one's choice in line makes no sense, but if it's working for themn, great. When it doesn't, and they run into problems, that's we are all here for.
Also, @A-Jay is a knuckle-dragger-leader-tying-braid-only-on-spinning.
A-Jay
I think that FC definitely has its benefits. I really like it for bottom contact baits. Flouro is getting better and better all the time as technology improves and processes and materials get more refined, but to take advantage of that you will have to spend a little extra money to get the products that are the most refined. I am willing to spend the extra money on a premium FC line like Tatsu or Sniper because of this. If I were restricted to only using some of the lower grade products, I might not bother with FC either.
After growing up with using mono I started using braid and absolutely loved it. Braid is by far my favorite and for a few years it was all I used. After trying to build my rod arsenal into individual setups for different techniques I found that there are benefits for each line. Right now I use braid and fluoro with one having mono. I can't stand the mono line and it reminds me of the issues I had with it growing up.
Mono always seems to have the most memory and has always been a pain on spinning reels. It like to jump off the spool and it clumps up and gets in knots. I've had pretty good experiences with fluoro so far and have really noticed the extra stretch is has. Braid is still my favorite.
I am a Trilene XT fan as well. Probably has something to do with having fished with monofilament for decades before fluorocarbon arrived on the scene. I truly detest breaking off fish (still angry about a smallmouth that broke my 6 pound test back in 2002) and there are any number of ways to damage flouro. It is just not for me and would not offer any significant advantage for 95% of the fishing I prefer to do.
I can't stand it as a main line. I do like it for leaders though.
I've been told it transmits bites better on weightless plastics over braid, but I didn't find that to be true. If you don't know how to fish weightless plastics and just let them fall on complete slack then maybe, but line doesn't make up for bad technique.
Pretty much switching to braid w/ FC leader. When I want a lighter, more clear main line I use Yo-Zuri. Like many others I had line management problems with FC main line but whatever works for you, took a while to determine what works best for me.
There's no perfect line, you're always giving up something to gain something else when picking between lines.
You don't need magic sprays, the most expensive lines, or any other voodoo to make FC work for you, you just need more practice. Some FC's are more manageable than others, but even the cheaper ones are fine if you do your part correctly. The other line types are more forgiving, which means they will cover up for the mistakes you make...To the point where you won't even know you're making them if that's all you've ever fished with.
There's nothing that says you NEED to use it, but if you do try it you would be well served to put in the time to get past the initial learning curve before writing it off. Even if you don't keep using it, if you become proficient with FC it will make you much better when you go back to mono/braid.
It's not hard to get the hang of it, but it does require effort on your part...Remember when you learned how to use a baitcaster? Took practice, time, and effort to get it down but now it's second nature right? Same principle applies to learning FC (or anything for that matter).
We're often reminded that fluorocarbon sinks, but Sufix-832 braid also sinks, but how often do you hear that?
The diameter of 20-lb Sufix-832 is 0.009", the diameter of 20-lb fluorocarbon is 0.018"
(exactly twice as fat). Which line material will give your diving plug greater depth: fluoro or braid?
It's no wonder why fluorocarbon knots cannot be trusted....how can you expect to tie a knot
in a line-material you cannot see Well, whatever it is I'm missing by not using fluorocarbon,
at least I never have to spray conditioner on my line and never have to spit on my knots.
Roger
On 4/18/2017 at 11:53 PM, Logan S said:
You don't need magic sprays, the most expensive lines, or any other voodoo to make FC work for you, you just need more practice. Some FC's are more manageable than others, but even the cheaper ones are fine if you do your part correctly. The other line types are more forgiving, which means they will cover up for the mistakes you make...To the point where you won't even know you're making them if that's all you've ever fished with.
That about sums it up in a few more words than I used I've been giving this a lot of thought the past couple weeks, and it really seems to come down to your ability or level of experience as a caster. Outside of the other arguments for or against, if you're having line management issues when using fluorocarbon on a baitcaster, then your casting skills could use a little work.
I hated Fluorocarbon when I first tried it as well. It seemed to jump off the spool and knots would break easy.
I have since converted and become a believer for my finesse fishing. I am almost exclusively fluorocarbon on my spinning gear.
I solved my issues by:
1) Not filling my spools more than 3 quarters full.
2) Upping the lb test I was using (8lb minimum)
3) Wetting my knots and pulling them slowly to tighten.
4) Recently started using line conditioner. KVD brand and Reel Snot.
I have it as a main line on probably over 20 reels, also use a lot of mono/copoly. I have braid on 2 outfits. I am glad we have options for line. Not every line is ideal for every situation, person or reel/breaking stystem.
I haven't had any issues with Abrazx the past few seasons. I use it in 15 and 17 and 20 lb. I do use KVD line conditioner from time to time.
On 4/18/2017 at 11:55 PM, RoLo said:
We're often reminded that fluorocarbon sinks, but Sufix-832 braid also sinks, but how often do you hear that?
The diameter of 20-lb Sufix-832 is 0.009", the diameter of 20-lb fluorocarbon is 0.018"
I need to check that out .
I tried FC once and disliked it . It was stiff , I could not tie a decent knot with it and I didnt like the way it settled on the bottom . It didnt slack up like mono . I probably had an inferior brand but at this point I'm happy with Trlene XL and Big Game .
On 4/19/2017 at 2:00 AM, scaleface said:
I need to check that out
The Gore fiber makes Sufix 832 heavier than water.
Cut a trace of Sufix 832 off the spool, break the surface tension by pushing the trace
down to the bottom of your bathroom basin. It will lie there forever.
Roger
I am a die hard braid and fluorocarbon leader user. Nothing is going to change my mind. If the people that use straight fluorocarbon love it, good. To each his own. If my dislike for using straight fluorocarbon somehow offends people, that's their problem, not mine. It's really a pretty insignificant thing to worry about in the grand scheme of things.
I agree that time on the water is the best teacher. Like most, I have tried braids, fluoros, copolymers, mono lines. No one fishing line is best at everything. Tectan is about the best handling line for spinning reels I have used with McCoy's Mean Green a close second. Braid has no stretch and no equal cutting through grass but it is terrible around rocks, zebra mussels, and Esox. The one and only situation I use braid now is when making super long casts for smallies in the Great Lakes and need to set hooks from a long ways off. Fluoro is not for topwater and is the least 'manageable', but it is the most abrasion resistant (lb for lb) though P-Line CXX is pretty bulletproof. Newer fluorocarbon lines are significantly better handling now, when used properly.
If I had to choose one line only to fish the rest of my days, I'd choose fluoro, probably Tatsu. Back in the day I'd have chosen Maxima Ultragreen.
I use to hate the stuff. Now I use it almost exclusively except for top water. I just ordered some P Line Tactical because of the killer price. I'll likely be disappointed because I'm a Tatsu fan, but ya never know. I use to love and use braid only, but now it drives me nuts. Especially on a very windy day. All my reels are Daiwa SV. I think the nature of this braking profile accommodates fluoro quite nicely. I've eased up on the casting fastballs. Just a nice steady flick and I'm happy as a clam.
this is a great mystery to me - why people dislike and have issues with FC. I dont know if i could live without it
On 4/19/2017 at 5:13 AM, Hogsticker said:I've eased up on the casting fastballs. Just a nice steady flick and I'm happy as a clam.
is that what it is? people are not using the wrist?
On 4/18/2017 at 10:53 PM, Mosster47 said:I can't stand it as a main line. I do like it for leaders though.
I've been told it transmits bites better on weightless plastics over braid, but I didn't find that to be true. If you don't know how to fish weightless plastics and just let them fall on complete slack then maybe, but line doesn't make up for bad technique.
I think FC helps when in wind.
Personally, I haven't felt the need to use FC in Florida. Maybe one texas rig setup.
On 4/19/2017 at 5:13 AM, Hogsticker said:I use to love and use braid only, but now it drives me nuts. Especially on a very windy day.
You got that right! And it's always windy here on the great lakes, don't think I've been out yet this year when it hasn't been blowing 20+ winds.
I liked using all FC on my spinning reels for bottom contact baits and sensitivity. What I didn't like was having to change the line out every 2nd or 3rd time I fished because of line twist and the cost of the FC. I switched over to small diameter braid with a light FC leader at the beginning of last year and have not looked back.
On 4/20/2017 at 1:27 AM, Fishin' Fool said:I liked using all FC on my spinning reels for bottom contact baits and sensitivity. What I didn't like was having to change the line out every 2nd or 3rd time I fished because of line twist and the cost of the FC. I switched over to small diameter braid with a light FC leader at the beginning of last year and have not looked back.
I have 4 year old Invisx on my primary DS rod. You just troll it out at the end of the day. Takes like 5 minutes. If the braid is working for you, then stick to that. It will get twist too, only then you're dealing with wind knots. Same solution for that - troll it out.
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Once I watched a guy give a DS seminar at the Bass Pro Tank. He recommended braid and a leader. Said it made easy to detect any strike. Well, when he would pitch the rig out maybe 15' or so, there was so much bow in the line, he had no idea that these HUGE steelhead were taking the bait every time. It was eye opening to me, and kind of funny. I wasn't the only one that noticed this either. Personally, I think he was using way too light a weight, but the image of him not feeling vicious strikes is vivid in my memory. I still use one of my six DS rigs with braid and a leader, but only for shallower, weedy presentations. Any deep, clear water and it's straight fluoro.
On 4/20/2017 at 2:18 AM, J Francho said:
I have 4 year old Invisx on my primary DS rod. You just troll it out at the end of the day. Takes like 5 minutes. If the braid is working for you, then stick to that. It will get twist too, only then you're dealing with wind knots. Same solution for that - troll it out.
Ditto - On my 3rd season with 16# Toray on several baitcasters. It's a myth that FC needs to be changed out regularly. No different than any other line in that regard. Sometimes I think the relatively cheap cost of nylon (along with tournament media coverage) gives people the false impression that changing out line constantly is supposed to be the norm.
On 4/20/2017 at 2:36 AM, Team9nine said:
Ditto - On my 3rd season with 16# Toray on several baitcasters. It's a myth that FC needs to be changed out regularly. No different than any other line in that regard. Sometimes I think the relatively cheap cost of nylon (along with tournament media coverage) gives people the false impression that changing out line constantly is supposed to be the norm.
I don't have a problem using it on a casting reel. Try drop shotting with it on a spinning reel. I didn't use a swivel on my line either. By the 3rd time out the line was bird nesting.
On 4/20/2017 at 3:38 AM, Fishin' Fool said:
I don't have a problem using it on a casting reel. Try drop shotting with it on a spinning reel. I didn't use a swivel on my line either. By the 3rd time out the line was bird nesting.
That's not a fluorocarbon issue, but a presentation/line twist issue. Mono/copoly would have done the same thing. Actually, braid twists nearly as much, you just don't notice it to the same degree. Line management is actually one of its (braid) strong suits among a host of negatives. I always have to untwist my braid outfits every few trips.
On 4/20/2017 at 3:38 AM, Fishin' Fool said:Try drop shotting with it on a spinning reel.
I have four setups with 6 lb. fluoro.
2x Avid AVS63MLXF
2x Avid AVS63MXF
All have a Stradic CI4 2500
Most guys up here on Ontario and Erie are using Fluoro. There's a few that use braid, and that's cool too. I just don't see the issues everyone complains about. I troll out the line at the end of the day. Takes five minutes. The issue is the inherent twist generated by a spinning reel. Close and seat your line by hand, keep your bait centered on the hook, and avoid super high speed reeling up from the depths. I normally don't buy into the clear line buying you bites, but in this case, I feel more bites with the denser fluoro.
If it didn't work, I wouldn't use it.
On 4/20/2017 at 3:48 AM, J Francho said:
I have four setups with 6 lb. fluoro.
2x Avid AVS63MLXF
2x Avid AVS63MXF
All have a Stradic CI4 2500
Most guys up here on Ontario and Erie are using Fluoro. There's a few that use braid, and that's cool too. I just don't see the issues everyone complains about. I troll out the line at the end of the day. Takes five minutes. The issue is the inherent twist generated by a spinning reel. Close and seat your line by hand, keep your bait centered on the hook, and avoid super high speed reeling up from the depths. I normally don't buy into the clear line buying you bites, but in this case, I feel more bites with the denser fluoro.
If it didn't work, I wouldn't use it.
How deep are you normally fishing on Ontario and Erie? Maybe it's better for deeper water. I'm rarely deeper than 15 fow.
15 to 50'. Depth makes no difference.
On 4/20/2017 at 3:57 AM, Fishin' Fool said:
How deep are you normally fishing on Ontario and Erie? Maybe it's better for deeper water. I'm rarely deeper than 15 fow.
FF, I'm with John on this. I know you fish St Clair like me and even though it's not very deep water, I tend to have a lot of line out when dropshotting because I typically cast or drag with it. Don't ever videogame unless it's in the channels where it does get 30ft+. I feel the higher density of fluorocarbon excels in transmitting bites and the bottom over braid plus leader. And I've tried two identical setups (original Crucial DS rod) to compare DS'ing straight 7lb Sniper to Power Pro plus 7lb Sniper leader.
As mentioned, every line on spinning reels needs routine un-twisting behind the boat. Anyone who does it knows it's a necessary evil that takes maybe 5 minutes at the end/beginning of each outing. And it works brilliantly, right? And I agree with teamnine that one does nnot need to change line as often as 'pros' say so - I just cut off 5-6 feet if the line feels nicked up from rocks and zeebs and good to go. Quality FC lines last a long time.