Constant Line Breakage 2024
Jim Hill reply :
Well, went fishing again today in my normal spot I go off shore and I got stuck and broke my line a few times but 2-3 times I broke the line with a fish on. Its got weeds real close to shore and I try my best to pull em through but the line is breaking over and over it seems. Not the whole line either, only the line where I tie my hook to. The swivel isn't breaking at all, its the line at the hook or near the swivel. Now, before you ask about the knots, its not coming apart. Its breaking.
I am using the same line I have on my reel, trilene 10lb test. I am fishing with a senko and o ring set up. Do i need to maybe invest in 15-20lb test for making a leader or should I just get a higher lb test line and not use a snap swivel and tie it directly to it? Im trying to save money as military/ssa retirement doesn't pay well.
It was so frustrating to lose a good 3-4lb bass again tonight and I lost 4 out of 5 hooks I bought right before going.
iabass8 reply :
If you are trying to pull fish through weeds with 10# test, heartbreak is inevitable. Id opt for larger line or braid. Ditch the swivel
Washout reply :
Several factors come to mind. Not wetting the cinch down, age of the line, bad batch of line, twist, abrasion, storage of the line, inferior knot (this can still be a factor) - just to name a few things off the top of my head.
Arv reply :
This would be where I'd start as wellOn 7/3/2014 at 11:11 AM, iabass8 said:If you are trying to pull fish through weeds with 10# test, heartbreak is inevitable. Id opt for larger line or braid. Ditch the swivel
Paul s reply :
I agree ditch the swivel, maybe try braid in 10 pound test, and if you dont already try palomar knots or clinch knot.
OroBass reply :
Palomar knot. 10 lb braid is really tiny and a pain to deal with. If you want to save money use the cheap 10 lb line as backing for 20 lb braid and in clear water I would recommend 12 to 15 lb fluorocarbon.
David D. reply :
What type of reel are you using?
If it is a spinning reel then I would go with 20 lb braid; baitcast I would opt for 40-65 lb braid.
Jim Hill reply :
On 7/3/2014 at 11:11 AM, iabass8 said:If you are trying to pull fish through weeds with 10# test, heartbreak is inevitable. Id opt for larger line or braid. Ditch the swivel
The 10lb test line has never broken itself, only the leader from the swivel to the hook.
On 7/3/2014 at 11:14 AM, Washout said:Several factors come to mind. Not wetting the cinch down, age of the line, bad batch of line, twist, abrasion, storage of the line, inferior knot (this can still be a factor) - just to name a few things off the top of my head.
I was doing the improved cinch, wetting it, with newer line. Im not sure its becoming untied, it looks more like its snapping off.
I guess I can try using some other line all together, I have used fireline in the past and never broke it. I just have one rod and reel for everything, walleye fishing is my main thing I use it for, so I have been hesitant to buy anything other then just plain old 10lb test trilene. If the leader wouldn't have broke 5 times today, I would have not lost a line since the swivel and above were never lost. I use a swivel for swapping things quickly, usually trolling for walleyes and I have about 20 hooks tied all ready for it. Those never do break.
Jim Hill reply :
On 7/3/2014 at 12:17 PM, David D. said:What type of reel are you using?
If it is a spinning reel then I would go with 20 lb braid; baitcast I would opt for 40-65 lb braid.
a shimano spinning reel.
Oh, and are there any cheaper (but still decent quality) 20lb test braided? No basspros or cabelas anywhere near here, but walmart does have a decent selection of line and thats only 20 min drvie
iabass8 reply :
On 7/3/2014 at 12:19 PM, Jim Hill said:The 10lb test line has never broken itself, only the leader from the swivel to the hook.
I was doing the improved cinch, wetting it, with newer line. Im not sure its becoming untied, it looks more like its snapping off.
I guess I can try using some other line all together, I have used fireline in the past and never broke it. I just have one rod and reel for everything, walleye fishing is my main thing I use it for, so I have been hesitant to buy anything other then just plain old 10lb test trilene. If the leader wouldn't have broke 5 times today, I would have not lost a line since the swivel and above were never lost. I use a swivel for swapping things quickly, usually trolling for walleyes and I have about 20 hooks tied all ready for it. Those never do break.
I guess i am unclear as to what line you are using. 10# trilene what? If its just 10# mono, why are you using a leader? If the knot is breaking, what line is the knot breaking in? Are you using 10#mainline attached to a swivel that is attached to those premade hook/leaders?
Jim Hill reply :
On 7/3/2014 at 12:30 PM, iabass8 said:I guess i am unclear as to what line you are using. 10# trilene what? If its just 10# mono, why are you using a leader? If the knot is breaking, what line is the knot breaking in? Are you using 10#mainline attached to a swivel that is attached to those premade hook/leaders?
Using trilene mono. Using a leader because I have a snap swivel all ready on for when I go walleye fishing. If the line does break from snags when walleye fishing, which with snags in the boat it does ALOT, I have 20 pretied hooks to just hook onto the swivel. So its mono line to a swivel, leader from swivel to hook. Hope that clears it up.
David D. reply :
On 7/3/2014 at 12:20 PM, Jim Hill said:a shimano spinning reel.
Oh, and are there any cheaper (but still decent quality) 20lb test braided? No basspros or cabelas anywhere near here, but walmart does have a decent selection of line and thats only 20 min drvie
My Walmarts all carry Power Pro at $12/150 yds which is a good price on good line.
OroBass reply :
Yep power pro
WIGuide reply :
If it's breaking at or near the knot, you're probably having knot issues. Not wetting the line enough, sinching it down too fast, as well as poor knot tying technique could all be something to look at. You could be having abrasion issues as well. You might want to take one of your pre-made worm harnesses and test it out above the water. Hook the hook onto something and pull till it breaks. You'll find out pretty quick what's going on.
frogflogger reply :
If you are trying to pull fish through the weeds - line break and heart break are a certainty - hooked fish in the weeds - go to the fish - or use some serious braid.
SirSnookalot reply :
Without visually seeing the problem can't really know for sure what yours is. I am not fan of mono on a spinning reel, on a bass sized reel 10# mono may be too heavy. I would opt for braid 15 or 20# (not whole a difference) and about a 15# leader, that should solve the problem, whatever knots are used just make sure they are tied correctly. Cost wise the braid may be cheaper in the long run, it doesn't need to be changed as often, minimal line twits, no coiling, no need to condition the line, no need troll the line out after your outing.
Washout reply :
Whatever reasons it has for breaking consistently at the end, switch the line to a braid especially on spinning equipment for extricating fish through weeds. Rigging the bait may be causing twist, the equipment may be causing twist, you may be causing twist or it's simply bad line. Try braid and see if it changes anything. Tie a Palomar on it and use one of these if you really need the speed to change, try this instead:
http://www.***.com/Bill_Norman_Speed_Clips_10pk/descpage-NSC.html
but if you are fishing in the weeds, I'd bypass everything but the weight, bait and hook, just my two cents worth.
Jim Hill reply :
some great suggestions, I think I will just go with braided line, the power pro seems like its very reasonable in price too. I haven't been walleye fishing for a while and I suppose it wouldn't matter much if I used it too for that at a later date. Almost every night for about an hour or two we end up at the bass lake anyway.
Its odd because i've used walleye line (mono) and I can't do a bait caster because I just plain suck with them, for nearly all my life. I just recently discovered this bass lake here and its a lot of fun but its getting old when I lose my line and I certainly do NOT want to leave fish with hooks in.
I just wish I had the money, dont we all, to have set ups for everything so I didn't have to change!
I actually might have been able to get another rod/reel but no joke last night on my way to the lake, I snapped the end of my rod in my van door and had to go buy a new one. This one breaks down this time thankfully!
Jim Hill reply :
oh and it appears my walmart doesn't have power pro (according to looking online). I do have a fleet supply near buy and some tackle stores tho. Which type of power pro should I look for as there were many more choices then I had imagined. Like colors, test and length. I think I'd be going with either 15 or 20# test and maybe 150 yards but not sure on that or color. Any advice on that would be helpful.
Oh, and this is what is in stock here where I go. One type of power pro it seems but lots of others.
http://www.landmsupply.com/department/sporting-goods/fishing/fishing-line
NathanW reply :
There might be some burrs or rust on the swivel. What the heck are you using a swivel for anyways???
Go with a braid main line and just tie a leader. Line twist wont be an issue with braid. Also the Alberto Knot is nearly as fast to tie as the improved clinch.
new2BC4bass reply :
On 7/4/2014 at 3:42 AM, NathanW said:Also the Alberto Knot is nearly as fast to tie as the improved clinch.
I use the Alberto for splicing lines. No way can you use it for tying on hooks. It sure isn't anywhere near as fast to tie as the Improved Clinch Knot. At least knot for me. (Pun intended.) I probably could tie on a dozen hooks in the same amount of time it takes me to tie one good Alberto Knot. Of course it isn't a knot I have to tie very often so some practice would be beneficial.
Jim Hill reply :
just a quick note, I went to my local fleet store and got some power pro 20lb test braided, only had mossy green but should be ok. After the 4th I will go test it at the lake. As I was tying things up and cutting off the tag end, I noticed it was really, really strong! Nail clippers didn't work, had to use steel scissors. I will probably try the palomar knot first. I did it on a swivel just to test my knot tying skills (never did one of those kind) and it seems to have tightened even better then when I did the cinch. I was using thing improved one I read about. I'll try a few knots out but honestly, with the incredible strength of the line, I don't forsee any issues.
And I use a swivel for quick switching of walleye snells. When using 10lb test on the boat in a rocky area, the line breaks alot with snags. I usually go thru at least 10-15 pre-tied hooks in a day. I don't want to spend all that time tying up new rigs so I do it the night before and store them.
Also, I really appreciate the replies. Since im not really a bass fisherman and have only recently found this bass lake, most of this stuff is new to me. I'll report back with the results and a nice picture. Thank all of you for helping further my fishing passion!
SirSnookalot reply :
On 7/4/2014 at 7:48 AM, new2BC4bass said:I use the Alberto for splicing lines. No way can you use it for tying on hooks. It sure isn't anywhere near as fast to tie as the Improved Clinch Knot. At least knot for me. (Pun intended.) I probably could tie on a dozen hooks in the same amount of time it takes me to tie one good Alberto Knot. Of course it isn't a knot I have to tie very often so some practice would be beneficial.
I think you are right. The Alberto is an excellent knot for joining lines and leaders but I can't tie it as fast as a clinch or improved clinch, especially if it's windy. I do use use swivels about 97% of the time, I use the Alberto when targeting species that will strike a swivel as readily as a lure, I prefer black and not silver. I keep it real simple and have never seen the need for any other knots. Braid to swivel is an improved clinch with 2 wraps not 1. Leader to swivel or duolock snap I use an ordinary clinch knot and I tie lures with a loopknot. I put a bead on the tag end of braid with a lighter.
Big Fish Rice reply :
You don't need a braid/leader for senkos lol....go wtih 12# or 15# P-Line 100% Fluorocarbon. Never again will you have an issue. If I were rich, I'd just send you a spool and make you a believer for free....but I'm not rich 
But seriously...try it.
BILLYsobx reply :
Definitely go to braid. Remember also that the weakest link between your lure and line is the knot. It will almost always break at that point because you are cinching the knot tighter as you land a fish in turn it will eventually cut itself. In my opinion anyways.
Fisher-O-men reply :
If you are going to braid on your spinning reel, there are a couple things to be aware of. First, don't fill you entire spool with braid. Fill half with cheap mono. Join the lines with uni/uni or Alberto. This will save you $$$.
Second, always close your bail with your hand and watch for loops on your spool. If a loop forms pull line out until you get to the loop. If you do not do this you will soon cast out an ugly snarl of braid that is very hard to undo.
I love braid (15# power pro) on my spining reels. I even drop shot with it, with a 10# fluoro leader. In weeds I ditch the leader.
Jim Hill reply :
Well, Got to try the new line and there is good and bad. The bad, when I did get stuck, I had one helluva time pulling it out. I had to cut one line completely off. The line is so strong its insane! I am bringing work gloves with me incase I get stuck again.
The good news, weeds aren't an issue. I think I could pull in a log if it moved.
Heres todays catch. Not big but a few lbs is still pretty fun to catch!
Washout reply :
Nice one! Getting hung up is something you'll adapt to. There's a few options that I know of.
1: If you are quick enough to recognize the snag, you can circle your rod end at an elevated angle and free it.
2: A lure knocker. ( you can make one out of a 3/4 or 1 oz dipsey sinker and a snap swivel)
3: Thumping the line. (If you get mild to moderately snagged, pulling the line with your retrieve hand while keeping some tension on the line will shock it out, kind of like stretching a new guitar string)
4: Slapping the rod butt. Put some more tension on the snag and hit the butt end of the rod.
5: Weaker test leaders.
6: Use lighter gauge hooks and pull hard enough to straighten them. (Pull the line, not by using the rod)
7: Go for a small swim. If you have a magic or expensive crankbait, you'll do it.
8: Use a stick and wrap your line around it a few times and start pulling. You won't have to carry gloves with you that way.
That's the list of antics I've used in the past with the exception of number 8, I read on here someone else used this technique who was a bank fisherman. On a boat, things are a little easier sometimes. But I sometimes get an errant cast that lands in some limbs. At any rate, keep fishing! You'll learn to recognize snags sooner and more accurately and you'll lose less equipment over time. Having said that, when the bite is on, I snag myself more frequently because I get bass blinded and I've missed some decent fish by being fooled thinking it was a snag. When in doubt, set the hook. You can't brag if you never snag. Happy fishing!
Big Texan reply :
Ditch the swivel, no need for it at all when fishing a Senko and this eliminates the other knot. You are on the real light side when fishing weeds with this bait. Is the water gin clear or something? If you have a lot of heavy grass and weeds to pull fish out of you need to get another rig, bait caster or bigger spinning reel with braid and posibly a heavy florocarbon leader if water is really clear. That is a whole new deal.
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