Another Clear Coat Question 2024

Ok, Ok I searched and didn't find anything. So I figured I post the question here. I want to use a clear coat over my Createx painted baits. I have heard of Devcon 2 ton epoxy & Environ-Tex. I don't care if I get it locally or online just want to get some. So what should I get. I have a old rod drying wheel that I am fabricating to work for my cranks.

Opinions?

I've used both and personally like the etex more. Either of them do well, but I think etex seems more user frinedly, performs better, and also looked like it had a cleaner finish. But both have they're advantages and disadvantages. Hopefully some others chime in.

BTW, Etex can be picked up at Micheals.

Flex coat ultra V high build is my clear coat of choice.   

I didn't see e-tex in Michael's today....so do you apply these by hand (brush) or do you spray them?

@BIG M

Where do you get some of that how user friendly is it?

I can vouch for BigM's clear coat. It is awesome I have 1 that I have been using a couple weeks now and I can't find any scratch marks from the hooks.

I have brand name baits that don't last through a day of hard fishing. So whatever he says listen.

@ Gamec0cks5, Flex Coat Ultra V is available at Mudhole.com.  I haven't used any other epoxies for topcoat so I don't know how it compares in terms of being user-friendly, but I don't find it hard to use.

Ok thanks guys, I might try both of them out. How much Flex Coat should I need? does this stuff go a long way?

I get the 8oz. size, and I can do quite a few lures with 2-3 coats per lure.  Also, most of my lures are pretty big as crankbaits go, so if you were coating smaller cranks you could coat more baits with the same amount of epoxy.

Flex coat and e-tex are very similar clear coats.   I normally mix 4cc and I can coat 6 med sized cranks from that batch.   The trick with either flex coat or e-tex is to let the mixed batch set up for about 10 min to start the curing process.   This also helps let the bubbles rise and pop.    Do not try to brush these on thick, nice thin coat is all that is needed.   Let cure over night and do a 2nd coat.    Give the bait about 48hrs to fully cure.

ok you guys are a big help! I am mainly doing small to medium crankbaits. I am working on repaints of SK Red Eye Shads, Rat-L-Traps and some predator bass baits cranks just to get the hang of it. None of them are that big the biggest one is the jointed crank that is supposed to be like the jackall one, IDK the name.

So how long is the shelf life on the flex coat, I am not going to be doing a lot of baits at the same time so I don't wanna get a large quantity and have them go bad on me, i.e. harden up or something

I've used all my Flex Coat topcoat before it had a chance to do anything like you said.  On the package it gives instructions about what to do if that happens: 

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Tip #15:  Under certain circumstances (such as when stored in cold areas), epoxy resin part A will crystallize much in the same way as honey will crystallize. To restore the resin to its original state, heat the bottle in hot (not boiling water). NOTE:This crystallizing absolutely does not damage Flex Coat Finish.

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I've used all my Flex Coat topcoat before it had a chance to do anything like you said. On the package it gives instructions about what to do if that happens:

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Tip #15: Under certain circumstances (such as when stored in cold areas), epoxy resin part A will crystallize much in the same way as honey will crystallize. To restore the resin to its original state, heat the bottle in hot (not boiling water). NOTE:This crystallizing absolutely does not damage Flex Coat Finish.

Ok Sounds Good, I am going to order some. Thanks Whittler

Soak the bottle in some hot water and it's good as new.   I have to do this a couple of times per yr because I buy the stuff in 32oz bottles.

Ok so that stuff is $10 to ship it  , man shipping rates have gone up! Might get some E-Tex and some of this too

Just ordered some Flexcoat V, and some small brushes ;D

Remember to let the mixed batch sit for 10 min before you start brushing it on.   If you see any tiny bubbles on the bait just exhale on it.

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Remember to let the mixed batch sit for 10 min before you start brushing it on. If you see any tiny bubbles on the bait just exhale on it.

ok thanks for the tip I did not know that

ok so I just got some Flex Coat V in this week and was wondering what I need to do to clear coat jointed lures? I have a jointed wakebait that needs some clear. when I put it on my drying rack should I just clip one on to the back eyelet and just keep them taught?

I have the motor and assembly together for the drying wheel. I was planning on using a 1" dowel and drilling and epoxying some small alligator clips in it for holding the lures.

How much coat do I put on them? Even, light coats? Or what? How many CCs?

Sorry complete newb just want to get as much info as possible

Thanks!

I clear all my jointed baits in pieces and then put them together.   I've never tried to clear coat a commerical made jointed bait.

I like 2 thin coats on my baits.   I would suggest that you practice on a couple of old baits first.   The baits need to turn at least 2hrs and then you can hang them up to finish.

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I clear all my jointed baits in pieces and then put them together. I've never tried to clear coat a commerical made jointed bait.

I like 2 thin coats on my baits. I would suggest that you practice on a couple of old baits first. The baits need to turn at least 2hrs and then you can hang them up to finish.

ok will do!

big m   kbhere :  your saying to let the mixed epoxy  set for 10 min before applying . If i wait that long it seems to start to set up.   Do you thin e-tex,  if so with what.  thanks  kb   if you apply a second coat how much time in between coats.

Well I did 3 CCs of Flex Coat for my 3 baits. I let them stay on the drying wheel for 3 hours then let them sit for another 3 and they are still "soft" and so is the puddle left on my mixing board??

Did I not use enough Hardener? I used 3 ccs of each to mix up the batch.

Kb, I can do six med sized cranks after letting a mixed batch sit for 10 min.   I don't thin my clear coats.   

I wait at least 12hrs before doing the 2nd clear coat.   Mix the clear coat in a medicine cup, you can get them at a drug store.   Mix that batch really good, let sit 10 min then brush on the bait.   Flex coat will take at least 24 hrs to fully cure.

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Kb, I can do six med sized cranks after letting a mixed batch sit for 10 min. I don't thin my clear coats.

I wait at least 12hrs before doing the 2nd clear coat. Mix the clear coat in a medicine cup, you can get them at a drug store. Mix that batch really good, let sit 10 min then brush on the bait. Flex coat will take at least 24 hrs to fully cure.

thank you   big m

The actual name of Etex is Envirotex Lite.  It's sold in 2 ea 8 oz bottles in a blue and white box in the decoupage/gold leafing section of Michael's craft stores.  Very cost efficient but it requires multiple coats and rotation for several hours to prevent sags and drips.  I mostly use Devcon Two Ton epoxy, which is a glue and is thicker than Etex, requiring one coat and rotation for 1 hour.  It used to be sold at Walmart but now I can only find it online.  Flexcoat V is similar in use to Etex but it contains a UV inhibitor that should keep the bait from yellowing for longer than standard epoxies.  Keep in mind that all finishes will yellow over time from UV exposure and the few UV inhibited epoxies are premium finishes, sold at a premium - but you get what you pay for.  The best way to prevent yellowing is to measure the proportions accurately and mix them very well.  Failure to measure/mix properly is the main cause of failure to harden and premature yellowing.

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The actual name of Etex is Envirotex Lite. It's sold in 2 ea 8 oz bottles in a blue and white box in the decoupage/gold leafing section of Michael's craft stores. Very cost efficient but it requires multiple coats and rotation for several hours to prevent sags and drips. I mostly use Devcon Two Ton epoxy, which is a glue and is thicker than Etex, requiring one coat and rotation for 1 hour. It used to be sold at Walmart but now I can only find it online. Flexcoat V is similar in use to Etex but it contains a UV inhibitor that should keep the bait from yellowing for longer than standard epoxies. Keep in mind that all finishes will yellow over time from UV exposure and the few UV inhibited epoxies are premium finishes, sold at a premium - but you get what you pay for. The best way to prevent yellowing is to measure the proportions accurately and mix them very well. Failure to measure/mix properly is the main cause of failure to harden and premature yellowing.

That's some good info there, thanks Bob!

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