Jigs N Grass 2024

Catt reply :

I am amazed at the number of what I consider accomplished anglers who are having problems fishing jigs in grass.

During the early 70s the Hydrilla/Milfoil/Coontail Moss on many southern lake started really getting thick so you either learned to fish grass or learned to enjoy getting skunked. Jigs with craw worm trailers were invented and techniques refined to effectively fish for bass in grass.

Here are a few tips that may help with your next encounter with grass & bass.

Start at the "outer" weed/grass line which by the way is not the well defined wall where the matted weed/grass stops. The "outer" weed/grass line can be located 15 to 25 yds away from the mat itself and can be found with your electronics.

When making a cast, pitch or flip keep your jig at a "near vertical presentation"; the less vertical your cast, pitch or flip the more you actually have work not only your jig through the grass but your line also.

Main objective is to keep that jig in contact with the bottom at all times, something most anglers fishing grass fail to do. When faced with weeds many anglers opt for the lightest weight possible; I go the exact opposite using at least a 3/8 oz shaking my rod tip forcing the jig through the grass. When bass are located in grass they are not on top of the grass but buried up inside the grass; they will move to the outer edges or make a quick run to the surface to feed. Yes it's extremely aggravating trying to get bait through the grass but the payoff is larger than average bass.

Follow the contour of this "outer" weed/grass line casting parallel and progressively work your way up to the matted grass. Once you come in contact with bass drop a buoy, drop anchor, mark a GPS and work this area in an ever going circle.

A-Jay reply :

Excellent. Timing is everything. This is a something that I hope to employ a bit more of this season as the water warms up here. I don't have much experience doing it as only a few bodies of water contain this type of cover. However, there are some and I'm hoping to capitalize on this rather untapped resource. I've been reading up best I can and have searched through many posts here which have been very informative. Can you recommend a favorite brand and or model jig for grass/vegetation ? Are you still fan of Oldham's Jig 3/8 oz. black/blue with a 6" Gene Larew Hawg Craw with the tail cut completely off making for a stubby jig.

A-Jay

BriBass reply :

Thanks catt!... Just bookmarked this

SoFlaBassAddict reply :

I've used lots of Catt's advice recently and am starting to become really comfortable with jig fishing now (to the tune of another 50-60 bucks for the bait monkey yesterday). I've got no issue working an arkie style jig through grass now, I'm sure a true grass jig would be a tiny bit easier. But thats not necessary. I just start picking apart the outer edges with the jig, working my way in. I'm not really comfortable with thick grass though. I still opt for a weedless t-rigged rage craw or lobster in that situation.

fishfordollars reply :

Great post. Some of my jigs actually weigh 1 1/4 oz. to fish the grass. I like the heavy weight. Not as much time spent trying to work it down through the grass. As Catt said keep it on the bottom.

If you are unsure if the fish will attack a jig of that size with a large trailer, well; you just need to spend some time with it and see for yourself.

lavbasser reply :

I often find it difficult to determine where the 'edge' is. I fish lakes where the weeds may slowly taper but it covers a vast area. Flipping to every hole in that area would take a week. Plus the area looks totally homogeneous, nothing stands out. Any advice is appreciated. Thanks for the post.

Catt reply :

Quote
I often find it difficult to determine where the 'edge' is. I fish lakes where the weeds may slowly taper but it covers a vast area. Flipping to every hole in that area would take a week. Plus the area looks totally homogeneous, nothing stands out. Any advice is appreciated. Thanks for the post.

Look at the structure under the grass & fish it

Sam reply :

Yes, grass and wood.

Do what Catt says.

Be patient.

fishfordollars reply :

The grass you can see will tell you a lot. Any area that is thin or looks like a trail has been worn through it could be a slight depression. It can mark a ditch or a bottom contour change of any kind. Start there and work your way in and out.

A glance at the land on shore will also give you clues as to what is under it. Look at the points and depressions and follow them out under the grass.

MFBAB reply :

When you're looking for the outer grass edge you just need to idle around points and watch your sonar. The visible mat usually disapears at a uniform depth all the way around, basically giving away a depth change at that edge. The same is true of the outer edge, when you idle out from the visible edge you will be seeing stalks of grass on your sonar until you reach the depth where it goes to a clean bottom, this is basically the point that light penetration becomes too weak to grow grass. Whatever depth that is should form the edge of the grass pretty much everywhere else on the lake assuming water clarity is similar so you can start targeting points, humps, structure in that depth. That's what works for me, on the outer edge you can't see the grass so it seems easier to lock onto a depth contour and follow that.

Big-O reply :

Yeah Buddy...That's what I'm talkin' bout, right there and you're all over it Catt

Usually if I pull up within casting distance to visible surface grass....I'm starting too close :-/ We can all find the key grass that is on the outskirts of the visible bed by fan casting a few times and this is often where some of the bigger fish will be held up at certain times during the day. I fish these sparse clumps thoroughly and rarely go away empty handed. When I feel the jig is a bit tangled in this type of grass, I'll rip the jig in an upward fashion and let it fall back to the bottom on a slack line.

Only after I have completely fished the outside edges will I move in for close combat and I follow very much the same techniques you have mentioned

The thicker or deeper the grass, or poor water clarity will get a Rattle on my jig too. Also, find that I move the jig much less with this technique and catch just as many fish by only twitching the rod tip enough to rattle'em in.

As you know, this technique works much the same in rocks too but no rattle needed due to the noise of the jig ticking up and down on the rocks. Hello...anybody home 8-) but rocks'n'jigs is a whole other topic for ya

Catt reply :

When I feel my jig is getting a bit tangled I simply apply pressure, then release, apply a tad more pressure, then release; if this doesn't work I apply pressure while shaking my rod tip. Once my jig breaks free I pause for a good 15-20 seconds cause before I can count to 20 I done got bit!

Oh sorry A-Jay, I don't think there is a better jig for grass fishing than Terry Oldham's jigs; trailers are Gene Larew or Rage Tail.

A-Jay reply :

Quote
When I feel my jig is getting a bit tangled I simply apply pressure, then release, apply a tad more pressure, then release; if this doesn't work I apply pressure while shaking my rod tip. Once my jig breaks free I pause for a good 15-20 seconds cause before I can count to 20 I done got bit!
Oh sorry A-Jay, I don't think there is a better jig for grass fishing than Terry Oldham's jigs; trailers are Gene Larew or Rage Tail.

Thanks Catt ~ I had a feeling you'd say that.

What's that, the bait monkey's calling? Tell him I'll be Right there.

A-Jay

lavbasser reply :

Thanks for the help guys.

low_pro reply :

Weeds, lilys, and stumps... define my lake! Just started flipping last week and got pretty good at it after a few hours. Just me in the boat, good time to practice new techniques...

Question, I was throwing a t-rig wooly bug with 3/8 oz. bullet. Are t-rigs and jigs interchangable?? Or should I use one over the other in certain situations?

EDIT: I found this... answers my question

http://www.bassresource.com/bass_fishing_forums/YaBB.pl?num=1246768029

backpain... reply :

Does this outside deeper grass usually come up greener and healthier early in the year? I was fishing Monday, and all of the grass that was visible in the lake was still fairly brown and generally unhealthy looking. But the grass I was getting on my baits in the 8-12 foot depth range was bright green and healthy looking.

Catt reply :

backpain..., I can only speak for down south but yes some deep water grass stays green year round

low_pro, one of the biggest mistakes anglers who are new to fishing grass make is assuming t-rigs & jigs interchangeable or thinking one is better suited for fishing grass.

The hottest thing going right now is punching grass with specialized Texas Rigs, grass fishing veterans like fishfordollars , Big-O, & myself have been punching grass with jigs decades now. Many anglers will tell you a "punch" rig is easier to work through grass than a jig but I don't find a jig any harder.

Many anglers think a silent approach when fishing jigs in grass is the proper approach; by that I mean they want the jig to fall quietly through the grass and come through the grass cleanly. My approach is to be noisy, that is I want my jig to cause a disturbance by moving grass as it falls and when its coming though the grass.

I think of it like this, unless the bass is facing your jig as it enters the grass with the silent approach your jig will likely go unnoticed but create a little commotion and that bass will not only notice your jig turn but turn and swim towards your jig.

For years a 3/4 oz jig was the heaviest you could find so to help penetrate matted grass we would toss the jig straight up in the air and then with our rod slam it straight down through the grass hitting the water with a humongous splash...caught many a bass with this technique.

Osprey39 reply :

Here in New Mexico, we have almost zero vegetation in our lakes. Because of that, I have no idea what it looks like on a graph but I'm curious. Do any of you have a screenshot of it you can link?

MFBAB reply :

Quote
Here in New Mexico, we have almost zero vegetation in our lakes. Because of that, I have no idea what it looks like on a graph but I'm curious. Do any of you have a screenshot of it you can link?

I don't have a pic but you will know it when you see it. If you are on the edge of a grass bed you will see a hard return indicating the bottom and then growing out of that there will be some stringy looking stuff on the screen as well, there will be some daylight b/w the surface and the top of the grass at this point also. The further out you get the shorter and more sparse the grass will be on your screen until you reach the depth where the screen is just showing a clean bottom where the grass ends.

RoLo reply :

With respect to jig-fishing in weeds, I feel that a critical point has not been addressed.

As mentioned above, the end of the visible wall-of-weeds is NOT synonymous to the outer' weed-line.

While this may be news to the angler who fishes mainly in manmade reservoirs,

it's well-known to anglers who mainly fish natural lakes (necessity is the mother of invention).

With the exception of the spawning season, the outer weed-line (alias deep weed-line)

supports the lion's share of lunker bass. While this is true MOST of the time,

it certainly isn't true all the time. After several consecutive days of warm stable weather,

bass tend to loft progressively higher in the weed-bed, and their relative position in vegetation

gets increasingly closer to the plant crown and farther above the lake floor.

Although fishing above bottom may be unproductive today, in the wake of prolonged stable weather,

ripping the jig in 6-foot hops may be the ticket tomorrow. The key as always is "versatility

Roger

Catt reply :

Quote

After several consecutive days of warm stable weather,

bass tend to loft progressively higher in the weed-bed, and their relative position in vegetation

gets increasingly closer to the plant crown and farther above the lake floor.

Although fishing above bottom may be unproductive today, in the wake of prolonged stable weather,

ripping the jig in 6-foot hops may be the ticket tomorrow. The key as always is "versatility

Roger

Exactly Roger, which is why I start at the "outer" weed/grass line and then work progressively towards the mat.

In reference to Roger's above quote one should always fish the entire water column

Lard_Bass reply :

Catt,

If you are 15-25 yards away from the matt, that would put me in 20+ feet of water. First, would you throw a heavier or lighter jig? Second, if my fish finder was showing a barren/flat bottom with no weeds on the bottom, would you still pitch a jig? Or should I start as far away from the matt where there is some growth on the bottom?

Thx.

Catt reply :

Lard_Bass,

First I rarely throw a jig lighter than 1/2 oz

Second, if my "deep" finder is showing a barren/flat bottom with no weeds my boat aint stopping.

Start at the "outer" weed/grass line where ever that maybe, find it with your electronics.

Lard_Bass reply :

Thx Catt.

To keep the presentation as vertical as possible, would you cast about 5-10 feet?. How many bounces off the bottom would you do before you reeled the jig up to cast again? I am trying to understand how fast I should be casting / reeling. It seems like your approach is semi-search bait like.

I really stink at jigs and this has been helpful. Thanks for your insights.

Catt reply :

To keep the presentation as vertical as possible, would you cast about 5-10 feet?.

We must approach each type of grass and each grass bed individually, so there is no predetermined distance. The distance we cast to maintain a vertical presentation is determined by the height and thickness of the grass. The reason for maintaining a "near" vertical presentation is to reduce the amount of grass you will be forced to pull the bass through. If we are casting into grass that is well below the surface then a less than vertical presentation is required because we can gain control of the bass by bringing above the grass. But as we approach the "matted" grass the more difficult becomes to get the bass above the grass so we are better served going more vertical and less horizontal.

How many bounces off the bottom would you do before you reeled the jig up to cast again?

Again there is no predetermined number; if we feel we have given the bass ample time to locate and strike our lure then reel in and cast again.

I am trying to understand how fast I should be casting / reeling. It seems like your approach is semi-search bait like.

How fast I fish any lure in any situation is determined by how aggressive the bass are; I my minds eye all lures are search baits. I keep a couple buoy markers on the deck of my boat and once I catch a bass in goes a buoy; I then circle that area in an ever widen circle.

Redhed reply :

excellent info man..excellent. we do not have much weeds in my local lakes however our 4acre pond is loaded iwth it.. i may practice in that.. normally i go weightless and fish the outskirts and weedlines either close to the line or further out (pends on how agressive the fish are).. seems like high noon in bright light the fish are further in the weed trying to escape the sun.

Lard_Bass reply :

Thanks Catt, I am inspired to give jigs a try this weekend. Will let you know how I do. I feel you have given me some basic knowledge that is giving me the confidence to throw some jigs.

Choporoz reply :

Doing a little research before heading to a couple grass choked lakes and came upon this gem. I realize this is a serious necro-thread bump, but wow, what great info for this time of year. Thanks, Catt...and Steve and others.

RichF reply :

The majority of my tournament earnings come from fishing this way. I always have 3 different jigs tied on. Hey @Catt, quit giving away the secrets!!

HA! Guess I should've looked at the post date..

Dangerfield reply :

On 7/19/2018 at 11:36 PM, Choporoz said:

Doing a little research before heading to a couple grass choked lakes and came upon this gem. I realize this is a serious necro-thread bump, but wow, what great info for this time of year. Thanks, Catt...and Steve and others.

thanks for the bump - good info in this thread.

r83srock reply :

A lot of good information here. I learned to fish deep weed lines on my home lake by a guy who learned in the south. He won a lot out here, about 15-20 years back now, I was just a kid. He handed me his Waterloo Scrape rod with braid and a 1oz oldhams jig, and that’s where it started for me. The right gear made a big difference, as I was having a hard time detecting the bite, and controlling the fish once hooked up. I remember reading a book by Terry Oldham called “Bass in the grass”, it pretty much explains everything everyone has been saying in further detail. I’ve done well fishing this way, it’s what I do when I need a kicker, but if course I’ve had days where it ain’t happening, like anything else.

JollyJoe reply :

What's everyone's most common weight jig you are throwing in the grass when fishing as described here. I fish a 1/2oz Outkast Tackle RTX jig and have never ventured heavier than that. Seems i am missing out. Thinking i should make a purchase on some 3/4oz or an 1oz. Where do i start....

Bankbeater reply :

On 7/20/2018 at 4:09 AM, JollyJoe said:

What's everyone's most common weight jig you are throwing in the grass when fishing as described here. I fish a 1/2oz Outkast Tackle RTX jig and have never ventured heavier than that. Seems i am missing out. Thinking i should make a purchase on some 3/4oz or an 1oz. Where do i start....

Depends on how deep I want to go into the vegetation. 1/8 ounce for skirting across the top, 3/8 ounce for going down a couple of feet, and 1+ ounces if I want to go all the way to the bottom.

Catt reply :

Depends on thickness of grass, 1/2 oz on the outside grasslines & up to 1.5 oz.

WRB reply :

10 year old thread that pre dates my BR membership!

I will be one of the first to admit my weed/grass bass fishing skills are limited to weedless surface lures and fishing edges and pockets most of my bass fishing experience. The reason is simple I learned to bass fish on a like with heavy weed beds in the 50's when weedless spoons were the lure of choice.

Moved to where bass lakes were deep structure with sparse weed/grass cover the majority of the year, only the mid summer period had weed/grass growth and could still fish the edges and pockets.

It was only when fishing the Delta and Clear lake that targeting heavy cover became essential and had to learn to bass fish that type of cover.

Interesting topic that I can't add to.

Tom

r83srock reply :

On 7/20/2018 at 4:09 AM, JollyJoe said:

What's everyone's most common weight jig you are throwing in the grass when fishing as described here. I fish a 1/2oz Outkast Tackle RTX jig and have never ventured heavier than that. Seems i am missing out. Thinking i should make a purchase on some 3/4oz or an 1oz. Where do i start....

A lot of time I want to go after a reaction bite, so I’ll start with 1oz a lot. It can be a fast and efficient way to fish. 3/4 I like a bit better if there is wood present. 1.5 oz in the real thick stuff.

Choporoz reply :

Spent nearly 12 hours yesterday trying to put this thread to good use. Bass were all on bottom between 12 and 15 feet in thick stuff. Never got jigs working comfortably. But T-rig trick worms behind 3/16 tungsten bullet worked best for both getting to bottom and then working back to the boat. Key was boat position...made challenging by the wind. Keeping retrieve as straight as possible made working it much easier....just a little drift and the line wraps and pulls more weeds into the retrieved lure.

Catt reply :

@Choporoz exactly the reason I keep a Texas Rig & Jig-n-Craw tied on 24/7/365!

Fishingintheweeds reply :

On 7/20/2018 at 7:25 AM, Bankbeater said:

Depends on how deep I want to go into the vegetation. 1/8 ounce for skirting across the top, 3/8 ounce for going down a couple of feet, and 1+ ounces if I want to go all the way to the bottom.

Are you fishing from shore this way with the heavier weights? I've got some of my own deals that are pretty painstaking but work in the days they should (I think). Just looking to see what other people's experiences are like who don't fish very vertical because it's nearly impossible from a lot of banks (some spots, sure, but not most).

What are you doing with your heavier stuff and how far are you casting?

Bankbeater reply :

On 9/8/2018 at 12:19 AM, Fishingintheweeds said:

Are you fishing from shore this way with the heavier weights? I've got some of my own deals that are pretty painstaking but work in the days they should (I think). Just looking to see what other people's experiences are like who don't fish very vertical because it's nearly impossible from a lot of banks (some spots, sure, but not most).

What are you doing with your heavier stuff and how far are you casting?

When I fish from shore I start out with a t-rig with a 1/4 ounce weight. I make short casts maybe 30 or 40 feet along the bank, and straight out. I'll fish a 3/8 or 1/8 jig from the shore depending on how much wind there is, and how much vegetation I have to pull through.

Fishingintheweeds reply :

On 9/8/2018 at 7:23 AM, Bankbeater said:

When I fish from shore I start out with a t-rig with a 1/4 ounce weight. I make short casts maybe 30 or 40 feet along the bank, and straight out. I'll fish a 3/8 or 1/8 jig from the shore depending on how much wind there is, and how much vegetation I have to pull through.

So, you're not really throwing bombs either. Ha, one cast takes long enough as it is. I'm interested in throwing something heavier in the really, really thick stuff, it's just the angles and exit plan..I mean, just thinking of where I was on the river today, for instance, say I throw a 1/2 or 3/4 oz and get something on the end of that cast, through cover, pads and grass. I'm not sure how that one turns out and if I could get them in from there, I'm not sure if I could take the pain of fishing that way. Seems like a fun thing to take on but also a little forced...

Instead, I hit the holes in the pads and the inside edges, transitions in the vegetation and near any wood that was piled up. Casts were probably also less than 40 feet and the two I caught were probably less than 20. I used a 3/8 oz, weedless arkie head with a craw on it. Managed two in my lunch break.

Seems like the smart way to go about this from the bank. But who knows, the bait monkey may shake me and make me buy some big jigs and then I'll have no choice but to throw them.

Catt reply :

On 9/8/2018 at 8:02 AM, Fishingintheweeds said:

Instead, I hit the holes in the pads and the inside edges, transitions in the vegetation and near any wood that was pulled up.

This is why you fish the structure not the grass!

Those little holes, sparse areas creating inside edges, points, etc are caused by bottom changes. Changes in depth and/or bottom composition.

Fishingintheweeds reply :

Yes, sir! The more I focus on "grass" fishing, the more I specifically look at the surface to tell me what's going on below. In my mind, that is actually what I'm casting to.

Catt reply :

On 9/9/2018 at 6:20 AM, Fishingintheweeds said:

Yes, sir! The more I focus on "grass" fishing, the more I specifically look at the surface to tell me what's going on below. In my mind, that is actually what I'm casting to.

Exactly but don't overlook the thicker areas either, they're gonna use the opening, edges & sparse areas to ambush but they're hiding out a little deeper in the grass.

Take a point formed by grass many anglers hit the end & sides. I'll work up the point like I would one without grass!

Fishingintheweeds reply :

On 9/9/2018 at 9:02 AM, Catt said:

Exactly but don't overlook the thicker areas either, they're gonna use the opening, edges & sparse areas to ambush but they're hiding out a little deeper in the grass.

Take a point formed by grass many anglers hit the end & sides. I'll work up the point like I would one without grass!

They just happened to be on the inside edges this time. In the spring, mostly thick pads, they have bit farther out...once July rolls around, I get the pike on the inside edges and a little farther out.

But yes, grass specifically, is why I've been picking your brain about the grass jigs. I didn't MEAN to get them out of the thick grass last week but there was grass below that I hadn't seen at first. So, I decided to stay. Ha, the chatterbait did it, right in the middle of it too, but I I figured there might be something a little more suitable. The grass jigs, even the big ones still do ok coming through from the bank. Some of the others though, a couple of different "swim jigs" that I tried, not so much.

Grass will probably be what I look to fish and improve on for the rest of this year.

Catt reply :

@Fishingintheweeds Fishing grass from the bank can create its own set of problems. Sometimes ya gotta pitch or cast more horizontal than I would prefer but necessary to reach productive water.

MichaelCopeland reply :

On 9/9/2018 at 11:05 AM, Catt said:

@Fishingintheweeds Fishing grass from the bank can create its own set of problems. Sometimes ya gotta pitch or cast more horizontal than I would prefer but necessary to reach productive water.

Amen to that! Fortunately a good swim jig can come through it with minimal problems. For the water I'm fishing now, I don't really seem to have very productive colors in my swim jigs. The water is much clearer than I'm really equipped for jigwise. I ordered some Shot Callers yesterday from @Siebert Outdoors that I believe will change all that. Can't wait to get em in and give em a try. ????

Fishingintheweeds reply :

It does. But it's also helped me improve even more working a jig through tough stuff effectively and practicing not getting hung up. Between the jigs, plain arkie heads and a kinda Neko rig deal I threw together before I knew it had a name, fishing like this lately has also brought me back to crawdad imitations, which I'd never really had a good sense for how to use. In fact, even though I know most fish in most places eat a lot of them, I'd all but stopped using them the last couple of years.

On 9/9/2018 at 11:14 AM, MichaelCopeland said:

Amen to that! Fortunately a good swim jig can come through it with minimal problems. For the water I'm fishing now, I don't really seem to have very productive colors in my swim jigs. The water is much clearer than I'm really equipped for jigwise. I ordered some Shot Callers yesterday from @Siebert Outdoors that I believe will change all that. Can't wait to get em in and give em a try. ????

I think the shot callers will be good. Until I had mine, I threw an old one that I couldn't tell you where it came from for a million dollars, but the shot caller looks good. I have some of the grass n swim jigs that I just got from them...I'm ready to give those a look soon. For now, I've had the plain arkie head jig heads from them doing good with a craw on.

But yeah, comparing all of the jig types that I have, if anybody wonders if certain types really are better in the conditions that they're "made" for, the answer is yes. And the grass jigs come through the grass that most of the others really don't well, or can't without dragging it all in with it.

MichaelCopeland reply :

On 9/9/2018 at 11:14 AM, Fishingintheweeds said:

It does. But it's also helped me improve even more working a jig through tough stuff effectively and practicing not getting hung up. Between the jigs, plain arkie heads and a kinda Neko rig deal I threw together before I knew it had a name, fishing like this lately has also brought me back to crawdad imitations, which I'd never really had a good sense for how to use. In fact, even though I know most fish in most places eat a lot of them, I'd all but stopped using them the last couple of years.

I think the shot callers will be good. Until I had mine, I threw an old one that I couldn't tell you where it came from for a million dollars, but the shot caller looks good. I have some of the grass n swim jigs that I just got from them...I'm ready to give those a look soon. For now, I've had the plain arkie head jig heads from them doing good with a craw on.

But yeah, comparing all of the jig types that I have, if anybody wonders if certain types really are better in the conditions that they're "made" for, the answer is yes. And the grass jigs come through the grass that most of the others really don't well, or can't without dragging it all in with it.

Pulling in grass, weeds etc. would be the minimal problems I was referring to. I believe all types of jigs will bring that stuff in with them, but swim jigs and grass jigs bring in the very least amount. In my experiences anyways. ????

Fishingintheweeds reply :

I don't want to put anybody out there but there is one brand of swim jig that I have, and they're very pretty. I really them...But the head has so many sharp corners on it, they hardly come through at all. It isa almost like throwing a giant treble hook. I threw a 3/8 ball head out and it came through easier than this particular brand of swim bait.

I guess my last statement about type and more this about shape, and not just name, is for anybody who may not know or is wondering. I used to not know the difference and wonder if it as really that big of a deal also. Well, it makes a difference. I hope that can be helpful for someone to know.

Catt reply :

@Fishingintheweeds & @MichaelCopeland

The head of a swim jig is designed to do what?

Come through grass cleanly!

When picking a grass jig compare the head design to your swim jig, a good grass & a good swim jig should be similar in design.

For lighter weight jigs (3/16-3/8) in grass I find myself using a swim jig a lot but I fish it on the bottom.

Next to head design the following is probably more important!

When I feel my jig is getting a bit tangled I simply apply pressure, then release, apply a tad more pressure, then release; if this doesn't work I apply pressure while shaking my rod tip.

Oh! By the way this works in grass, brush, & timber ????

MichaelCopeland reply :

On 9/9/2018 at 7:26 PM, Catt said:

@Fishingintheweeds & @MichaelCopeland

The head of a swim jig is designed to do what?

Come through grass cleanly!

When picking a grass jig compare the head design to your swim jig, a good grass & a good swim jig should be similar in design.

For lighter weight jigs (3/16-3/8) in grass I find myself using a swim jig a lot but I fish it on the bottom.

Next to head design the following is probably more important!

When I feel my jig is getting a bit tangled I simply apply pressure, then release, apply a tad more pressure, then release; if this doesn't work I apply pressure while shaking my rod tip.

Oh! By the way this works in grass, brush, & timber ????

That's what I was kinda thinking myself. Thank you for confirming that for me. I'm also getting a little better with adding pressure, release, repeat and adding pressure shaking rod tip to get out of a tangled situation. I still don't have the confidence that I would like to have in the jigs, but I'm thinking/hoping that's gonna change with the new ones(at least one of them anyways) that I've got coming from @Siebert Outdoors. I do know one thing, though, I'm keeping a jig tied on until I get some confidence in it. ????

NHBull reply :

Best historic thread to date......

Choporoz reply :

This weekend, I participated in a tournament on the same lake that I discussed in July. Pre-fished Friday with continued success by getting t-rigged worms to the bottom of the (much thicker than six weeks ago) weeds.

Took me way to long to get it through my head on Saturday, that the bass just weren't playing the same game. Winners killed it with split shot rigs tickling the tops, while we kept trying to force them to eat off the bottom. Even when you think you get it figured out....keep thinking...

Catt reply :

On 9/10/2018 at 9:57 PM, Choporoz said:

Even when you think you get it figured out....keep thinking

Everytime I think I got em figured out they prove to me I don't!

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Jigs N Grass 2024

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