Looking into buying a baitcasting Rod / Reel over the winter. I've read that people experience a lot of backlash, and they're generally not as easy to use as a spinning setup. So what i'm asking is if you're someone who started out Spinning, and made the jump into adding a baitcaster to your current tool set, (or have experience using one in general) what advice would you offer? I've seen there are things in place to help reduce backlash, and general complications, but it's always good to hear some practical knowledge for those who have been there.
I'm not specifially asking what brands are reliable, but if you'd like to offer some advice there as well, i'll take it. (Howeverm I have / and will continue to search for that info when it gets a bit closer to me pulling the trigger and buying one).
Thanks.
There is a higher learning curve with baitcasters. That's it.
As for what I wished I knew....I wish I knew how much easier it is to crank and throw larger baits with them.
Go with a reputable brand at the price point that suits you best. No need to buy a $200 reel if you end up hating it. Don't psych yourself out on backlashing. It happens to everyone from new to pro. It will certainly happen to you a number of times. You will just need to practice and you'll get the hang of it in no time. To minimize your headache start with a line diameter of 10-12lb mono equivalent, whether you choose to use braid/fluoro/mono. If braid I'd suggest 30-50# to get started.
The other big factor is to look into the braking systems. Me personally, I like Centrifugal brakes like Shimano offers. Set it and forget it and they're simple to adjust on the spot. I have used straight mag, and it's ok but not my preference. I've used dual and I'd prefer dual over just straight magnetics for the fine tuning you can do.
Understand the braking system. Choices are magnetic and or centrifugal. IMHO they are much different, I find with my casting style centrifugal works the best. Also buy the best quality that you can afford, you will soon want to upgrade so buying the best could save you money. As far as backlash you must adjust the spool tension and brake to fit your casting style, unlike spinning this is a must. Also you will be spooling with heavier line so keep that in mine. One other differance between the two is playing and landing a fish. With spinning you use the rod, with baitcasting the reel winches them in.
Personally for me I learned to fish with a baitcaster and can not cast a spinning setup with the same accuracy as I can with spinning.
My first real spinning setup was referred to me by a bas pro after a charter trip. It included 10lb braid on a 6'6" MH F rod and a 3000 series reel. I thought I could translate that into a baitcaster. Boy was I wrong.
My first baitcaster was a 6'6" MH F rod with a Silver Max reel and 10lb braid.
It was a disaster trying to learn how to cast a baitcaster on 10lb braid. I naturally changed to Mono because of how expensive it was to keep screwing up my braid. Once I got it down with 12lb mono I slowly migrated to fluoro and never looked back.
So in short ... Make sure your first line is at least 12lb Mono. Make your mistakes there and slowly move over once you have the touch for using a baitcaster.
On 1/7/2014 at 1:44 AM, MarkH024 said:Go with a reputable brand at the price point that suits you best. No need to buy a $200 reel if you end up hating it.
I agree 110% here. I had a friend who wanted to learn how to use a baitcaster and bought a $50 Quantum reel. It was absolutely horrible. I did some research and decided the lowest I would go was the Abu Garcia Silver Max. I'm sure there are other lower priced reels which are just as effective but this one worked for me. Still use it today.
You don´t "need" baitcasting equipment, you get it because you want it, Suggestion and personal preferences are just that, maybe you have nvever heard about Fish Chris, well the man has caught more 10+ pounders than most guys here will ever be able to catch, actually most guys here will never catch a 10 + pounder and the man fishes exclusively will spinning gear. Sir Snook Alot catches sailfish with spinning gear and fishes almost exclusively with spinning gear. My friend Rigo fishes exclusively wih spinning gear, my nephew also and he has caught a couple of 10 pounders. Spinninig gear not powerful enough ? ------> BS !
You don´t need bc gear, it´s not a must, you can fish with spinning gear the rest of your life.
I do own both types, for me it´s exactly the same to fish with one or the other.
That "cheap" sometimes = headaches and not worth the "cheapness". Inexpensive is a different story.
That decent quality can be inexpensive if you know where to look (and this site is a great place to look for that).
On 1/7/2014 at 1:51 AM, Raul said:You don´t "need" baitcasting equipment, you get it because you want it ... Spinninig gear not powerful eniugh ? ------> BS !
You don´t need bc gear, it´s not a must, you can fish with spinning gear the rest of your life.
I do own both types, for me it´s exactly the same to fish with one or the other.
I agree with this, even though I bought the "need" thing before I "knew better"... but then again, I actually like using bait casters now even though they are not a "need", but because I wanted to learn them.
That you have to use your thumb when casting... Rookie move, but I had no idea and the guy at BPS didn't tell me. Watch bassresource's YouTube videos on how to use them. I learned on a cabelas tourney zx and love it. I also wish I had known about different gear ratios for different purposes.
Yes, this is a "want to learn query." I'm a weekend warrior (and at night when I can fit it in, haha). As always, not tring to light the world on fire, just want to understand more tools and their uses.
Get yourself a BPS pro qualifier. It has the dual brakes(plus the tension knob set to tight enough so the spool doesn't move side to side, tighter in the begining, then looser as you get better). Set the internal pins, two in the on position.Use inexpensive 10 or 12 pound monofilament. Buy a cheap larger spool of line and change line often when you notice it feeling too rough.With the dual breaks you can increase the outer magnetic break for windy conditions or just to keep from backlashing. The reel is a good starter and many people stay with this reel. For $100 or less, on sale they get down to 60, 70, or 80 bucks.Keep the reel clean as you can and periodically oil the spool bearings with quality reel oil/lube(one drop). It may all sound like much but it becomes a labor of love for most of us die hards. Wish I knew all of these tips when I first purchased a baitcaster 30 years ago.(otherwise buy a daiwa or shimano )
I started off with spincast decades ago when I was a boy. I think it was probably a year later that I picked up my first baitcaster. I really didn't have much problem. Only thing I paid attention was to use the thumb to control the spool, which I'm sure you knew that already. I personally feel this backlash fear is overblown.
What I would recommend is to get a reel with Centrifugal break with line like 12-14 lbs mono, M rod cause it loads better if that's not too soft for your intended application, and practice with a lure in the mid range of the rods rating. You'll be fine. Enjoy it.
"The other big factor is to look into the braking systems. Me personally, I like Centrifugal brakes like Shimano offers.
Set it and forget it and they're simple to adjust on the spot."
Specifically, I recommend the Citica now, but if you can afford to spend a few more dollars, wait for the new Curado.
I just starting fishing a baitcaster for the first time this past season. And if I would have watched the above video above I would have known it was going to be a completely different experience than casting a spinning reel.
I started with brakes on, tension knob too tight and whipped it like a spinning reel. Which obviously didn't work. Once I started to get the hang of it I started to notice that the brakes and spool tension knob were holding back my casting distance so I started to back them off little by little and started to thumb the spool. By the end of the season I had only a couple brakes set and the spool tension backed way off. So don't rely on the brakes and tension knob to control the spool, use your thumb and you'll get better distances on your casts as a result.
I didnt have this problem because I bought my first one lefty. But some guys do this and regret it from what Ive read over time. SO.. If you grew up holding your rod in your right hand and cranking with left, buy a left handed reel. It will be easier to learn to thumb the spool and you wont be switching hands every cast. Just my $0.02.
Other than that get a quality reel.
http://www.bassresource.com/bass-fishing-forums/topic/126636-bps-pro-qualifier-bc-reel-%E2%80%93-5-year-challenge-%E2%80%93-4-years-down-1-to-go/
This is an interesting read
That sometimes asking a question here will get your head spinning 1000 X's faster than before you asked. Everyone want's to, and thinks they are "helping", but sometimes the only way to learn is to get your hand burnt.............. No one's right, and no one's wrong, but so much of the trouble with the first time baitcaster is user error, and only you can work through that. It don't matter if it's a $300 reel or a $50 reel, neither one will be ANY different in the hands of an inexp. user. That being said....I'll toss my .02 into the ring. go with an Abu Max series reel. #1 they are inexpensive enough that if you don't get the hang of it, no big loss, #2 they are quality enough that they will last untill you have become good with it and can upgrade, #3 they are user friendly with externally adj. mag breaks etc....no taking side plates off and wondering if pushing the pin down is on, or up is off, or what not. And #4 they are available in both LH and RH, so you can get one that is comfortable to you.
Yes there is a difference between an experienced vs an inexperienced user when it comes to backlashing a baicaster, we "experienced" users, or at least in my case, when I backlash a bc the result is phenomenal, line coming out of every single opening the reel has, that didn´t happen when I was a "beginner".
Not every bait caster is created equally, some are hard to cast and some are so easy you don't even need to thumb the spool thus making them easier to cast then spinning reels! The best/easiest breaking system from my experience and I've used just about every breaking system out there is daiwa's mag3D breaking system found on daiwas T3 reels (the T3's on sale for 125$ at tackle warehouse, won't find a better reel under 200$ IMO) and Z series reels.
Another thing I would like to note and wish I knew before getting into bait casters is just because someone say's such and such reel casts a country mile with ease doesn't mean it will cast a country mile for you. Some baitcasters excel at casting heavy stuff and some excel at the lighter stuff and some are great for a wide range of weights what determins this is usually the spool so when asking how a baitcaster casts you should also compare it to the weight of baits you will be throwing.
I recommend skipping the cheap "trainer baitcaster" and jumping in a nice quality bait caster, baitcaster with a bad breaking system could turn you off from baitcasters all together.....now i'm not saying buy a expensive one, I am just saying make sure its of decent quality so you spend more time fishing then fixing a bridsnet which could take awhile to un-tangle surprisingly o.o
That buying a baitcaster is like buying heroin, the more you use them the more you search for something better, and more expensive. And don't be fooled by the thought that a more expensive reel is easier to cast. Some are-Revo MGX and some aren't - Daiwa Z type R+ {not for the faint of heart}. Find your self a good all purpose reel to start and go from there into more technique specific stuff as you get comfortable
I wish I had bought quality first. Instead of slowly working my way up from cheap to medium to higher prices stuff, I should have just bought the better stuff first.
To me the substance of your post is basically the same as "How to cast a baitcaster?" with the added option to make specific reel recommendations. My best advice is to read the stickies at the top. Also do a search for even more information. There are plenty of threads on how beginners should start out casting with baitcast reels.
To answer the question in the title, I wish I had known how addictive using a baitcast reel is. I might not have bought my first one!
My first b/c reel was a Fuego, so I can't say I wish I knew to start with a quality reel because the Fuego is an excellent reel. Majority of my reels are Daiwas plus I have a couple mag only Revos. I also have centrifugal and dual brake reels. Although I love my Daiwas, it is possible that a centrifugal reel might be easier to learn on for some people.
However, a fisherman getting ready to go out asked me about my b/c reels. Said he had a cheap Pflueger (didn't remember the model), but seldom used it because 3-4 casts would be good, then he would backlash. I tightened up the spool tension a bit (I run it very loose), and handed him my Zillion 50th Anniversary/ custom 843 rod/ half ounce spinnerbait. A few minutes later he asked me how to backlash the reel. I said loosen the spool tension. His reply was that he already had. So I think it is fair to say that a mag only reel can be used to learn on
All good things to consider, thanks everyone.
When I wanted to get my 1st baitcaster, I came up with my own unique plan. I went to walmart and bought a cheap $25 baitcaster combo, then bought a spool of Walmart brand line for like $1.97. I think tied on a jig or a casting weight, and went to the backyard to practice. My thinking was, this would be the worst case scenario, plastic reel with 0 ball bearings, junk rod, line that coils up like a smake, etc. If I could master casting with that, I'd be a ace with a decent baitcaster. Even if I backlashed, the line was junk, and cheap, no worries. If I ruined the rod or reel, no worries, it's junk. Well I practiced with that pathetic equipment for about a week, getting pretty good. Then I went out and bought a decent rod and a nice reel. Instantly I was casting like a pro. I highly recommend this way, I'd had a few friends do this also and it worked for them also.
I started with all the brakes/magnets on, and trying to cast about 5 feet, then after I could do that well, I'd cast 10 feet, then to 15, then I'd play with the magnets.
Read the forums and reviews before you decide on a model. It will save a lot of headaches and $$$ later on.
My big mistake on my first one was buying a cheap one to learn on. Grew extremely frustrated and almost gave up until I read some post on here about people having the same issue. Bought a used Citica, it was a night and day difference. So my advice would be to get a quality reel, doesn't have to be expensive.
Really good to hear that while things like backlash will just happen, with practice (and the help of a better quality reel) it's not as big of a headache with some practice. I'll definitely be reviewing different models and will probably go the route of spending a bit more and invest in quality.
Thanks to everyone for adding their insight. It's great to hear about the experiences from people when they fist picked one of these up. I'm sure it helped me avoid a couple pitfalls I was probably going to walk into.
As for this just being some sort of glorified "how do I use a baitcaster" thread, I did do research before posting this, which is why I decided to ask those more experienced than I am.
Thanks to everyone who took the time to add their advice, I appreciate it.
Number one rule. DON'T BUY A CHEAP BAITCASTER! Buy a quality reel and learning will be a lot less frustrating.
probably the biggest regret I have with beginning baitcasting is why I did not switch from primarily spinning to primarily casting long before I did. the advantages you get with a caster are incredible, the precision casting, the power, the reliability, and the space saving properties(try and fit 30 spinning combos in your rod locker). I personally learned on cheap daiwas (strikeforce) and abu's(black max), I didnt have any issues learning within a week of playing in the yard i was no longer backlashing, and i was relatively accurate. take this to the flip side I have been converting my father(who is my tournament partner) to casting equipment and he has been having issues with the lower end casting equipment, backlashes, distance and accuracy, so in his case I set up on his rods mostly mid range reels ($125.00-$200.00), he is now able to cast pretty well with minimal issues. now not knowing your age or ability to learn new things quickly and easily this in my opinion is how I would suggest, if you can catch on to things quickly and or you dont get frustrated easily try like the abu max series or the daiwa laguna, or even easier one of the evercast horizon reels(military or college) they are centrifugal breaking and extremely easy to cast(less than $80.00). If you dont typically pick up on new things easy i would suggest at the minimum the shimano Citica, or a lews tournament MG.
Mitch
I'm in the don't buy a cheap reel camp. I can tell you that if you buy a reel that says "Shimano" on the side of it, over time your self-esteem will improve and you will be a better person.
Decide if you like round reels or low-profile reels. If you like round reels, purchase a Calcutta. Purchase a size that fits your hand the best. If you like low-profile reels, purchase a Chronarch or a Curado. No need to go MORE expensive to start. Pick one with a medium gear ratio - 5 something or 6 something. Pick one that fits your hand, where your thumb most naturally falls on that thin space between the spool and the frame. Remember that for most consistent results, you don't thumb the line, you thumb the spool. Be mentally prepared, because you are going to backlash the reel so that that the easiest fix is to cut all the line out and start over. EVeryone who has ever owned a bait caster has done this whether they want to admit it or not. Begin your practice with cheap mono and upgrade to a better line once you gain some confidence. There are some videos out there on how to detangle a back lash. You should watch these, because there is a knack to it. BE SURE AND PURCHASE A LINE PICK!!!! This tool makes detangling a backlash much easier.
Good luck with your bait caster experiences. Like other guys have said on this thread - you don't NEED one. You DO want one. Like many fishing tools, they are fun to use and certain applications/techniques work better/easier with bait casting equipment. So - what are you waiting for? Bust out your VISA and your cell phone and order one right now. Don't wimp out and "think about it." DO IT NOW
That a 30$ baitcaster vs a 100$ one is rediculas. Buy something of quality not crap
There really is not a need to go the expense level of a Chronarch or Curado unless you got extra money laying around. A Citica or Revo S works great and can last a long time if taken care of. Once you get comfortable and you want to keep doing it then figure out what aspects you like and upgrade
my top two things i wish i knew then that i know now:
1) buy quality first. the single most important thing to look for is a solid, one-piece metal frame...those will last longer and feel smoother and smoother longer.
2) don't overlube. in fact, even on new reels, remove the bearings and see if they spin freely on the tip of a pencil. if they don't, flush them of grease and lube with just one drop of a quality reel oil.
you didn't ask but if this question were about spinning, i'd wished i knew the advantages of braided lines on spinning reels.
Nothing. I did my research before I bought
I would also say buy a quality reel. Dont go cheap. $80-$100 range is good, alot of guys on here like the Bass Pro Pro Qualifier. I have no experience with that one, but I do like the Bass Pro Extreme reels. Make sure you hold some reels before you make your decision. Believe it or not, not all reels feel the same in the hand. I would say 10 or 12lb test mono, stay away from braid right now. A braid backlash can be a &^$%! to get out. Most importantly, practice practice practice. You absolutely will get backlashes, but dont be afraid of them. It happens to everyone. Good luck!
Biggest mistake I made when purchasing my first was not doing enough research. Don't simply believe that just because a reel is more expensive that it is always better. Just read reviews and ask questions (like the one you have asked) and you should have no problem finding a great reel that is priced appropriately. I personally love the BPS Pro Qualifier. It's a great reel and for 80 bucks on sale you can't beat it.
To get a "good" reel with a graphite frame you will spend very close to the money that you will spend buying a PQ or something like it with an aluminum frame on sale. You will be spending that 70-100 dollars again within a few years if you buy a graphite framed reel because it will wear out quickly. Buy the aluminum framed reel.
I learned on a reel magnetic brakes. My second and third reels had magnetic brakes. My fourth reel had centrifugal brakes. Big difference. If you are stuck with just one type of brake, I preferred the magnetics because it suited my style. More pitching and less heaving, if you get my drift. If you can, get the best of both worlds and get a reel with both.
Mono is cheap. Use 12-14lb mono until you get where you can cast with few backlashes. Leave the braid and floro alone for now.
I was in your shoe not too long ago. My advice is to not go with the suggestion like I got. I was told to buy something cheap and learn from it. What happens is those reels doesn't really perform well and it could sway you away from BC reels. Plus when you realize you really like BC reels and want to upgrade it's hard to sell that cheap reel. IMO if money is a concern save and go right at the $100 and up price point. BPS pro qualifier is nice, Daiwa Tatula at Valley Sports for $117 are great choices. Better quality reels just feels more refine and performs better. Plus it's easier to sell when you want to upgrade to even more expensive reels.
Another suggestion is to watch plenty of youtube. How to set your BC reel and get rid of a birds nest. Don't be like me and only watched a video on how to set your BC reel and went to the lake to try it out. Got to the dock, my first cast birds nest like no other. Hummmm now what? Oh yeah didn't watch the video of how to get rid of a birds nest. So eager to try it out after one cast went straight home like a loser lol.
How to balance the baitcaster with the rod's specifications.
Learned how to do this very fast and have balanced the rods and reels on all setups.
Start with a decent, aluminum framed baitcaster, expect to spend between $80-$120 for quality reel. Get a 6'6"-7' med or med hvy baitcasting rod. The rod doesn't have to be expensive but you might as well start out with something you can use for years. Expect to spend $60+ for a reasonable baitcasting rod. Spool up with 10-12lb mono, don't use braid or fluoro to start. Start practicing with a 3/8oz casting plug or aerodynamic bait. This will be the ideal weight to start with. Turn the brakes all the way up and don't loosen them until you feel really comfortable with what you're doing. Loosen them a little at a time until you are casting a good distance with no backlashes. It isn't difficult at all but don't expect to figure it out overnight.
The purposes for line, ratio, length of rod, and power. It was a combo deal and knowing what I know now I have no clue why I was doing what I was doing. If one thing makes up for it, learning from trial and error is not always a bad way to learn! Also though have a purpose for buying it, when I bought my first it was complete spur of the moment buy and yet I still blame my first baitcaster for my addiction to this thing they call bass fishing. That part I wouldn't do different!
There is so much great information on what has worked in the past (or didn't work) will really help me go in the right direction.
I truly value the experiences of those here, thanks to those who have added their insight.
On 1/8/2014 at 9:58 AM, Jrob78 said:Start with a decent, aluminum framed baitcaster, expect to spend between $80-$120 for quality reel. Get a 6'6"-7' med or med hvy baitcasting rod. The rod doesn't have to be expensive but you might as well start out with something you can use for years. Expect to spend $60+ for a reasonable baitcasting rod. Spool up with 10-12lb mono, don't use braid or fluoro to start. Start practicing with a 3/8oz casting plug or aerodynamic bait. This will be the ideal weight to start with. Turn the brakes all the way up and don't loosen them until you feel really comfortable with what you're doing. Loosen them a little at a time until you are casting a good distance with no backlashes. It isn't difficult at all but don't expect to figure it out overnight.
This is great practical advice! I would tweak it just a smigin and use 1/2 oz weight to start with.
I tried using bait casters about 20 years ago but was too impatient to really learn, so it didn't work out very well.
Two years ago I gave it another go with a BPS Pro Qualifier paired with a 7' MF Vendetta but took the time to read the instructions & recommendations you'll find within this forum, started slow and practiced and less than a Summer's time was casting as fat with my BCs as with my spinning gear. Now I'm hooked on BC reels and only use my spinning gear when it's too windy for my BC abilities.
So, bait casters are great and are easily learned with time and practice, which is what I wished I'd done 20 years ago.
Best of luck.