Gents,
While having a beer with my buddy, he told me he uses mono for everything. Another friend went to FC and does the same, and I am mostly braid. I have been read a lot of older threads and find that many use FC for everything, other braid and some Mono.
If you are in one of these camps, could you explain your reasoning?
For me, I use braid with various leaders, with the exception of one cranking rod, that will be relived when my Gamma shows up.
thanks,
Al
All braid, all the time, for me, and never with a FC or mono leader. The main reason I always use braid is I don't like lines that stretch. For things like cranks, I use lighter rods that absorb the hits and I don't horse fish in, so I don't tear hooks out of fish. I adjust my fishing to work with the gear I'm using.
I've been using all braid on BC for the last 2 months.. No leaders
Fish don't seem to mind with anything i throw. T-Rigs, Cranks, lip-less cranks and Jerks. Sensitivity is amazing. I'm not a professional and using the KISS method.
Soon i will be focusing on spinning setup for drop/shakey on copoly 6lb at a very popular pond
At the moment, I am using 12# Copolymer on most baitcasters (with exception of 50# braid for frogs around the veggies), and 6# copolymer on spinning gear. YoZuri has a fairly high breaking strength. Been using it for several years. In all cases, no leader has been necessary for me.
Trilene15# for everthing but frogs and punching mats.
Frogs and mats I use 40# PP now.
Reason being Trilene is cheaper in a big roll then most of the other stuff, it's strong and doesn't get fray up as easy, cast well, holds a dang good knot, and last a long time.
I tryed the FC stuff and I couldn't tell the diffrence between it and Trilene when fishing with it, my wallet could though.
Only use braid on frogs and punching mats because where I fish the last thing I want to be doing is fighting to get my lure off a stump under the water, I have had very good luck getting unhung
with regular mono, but when i tryed braid on cranks and chatterbaits i lost a lot of lures because it would hook them in so deep because it wouldnt stretch.
So far me it's a two string system.
You can as the previous posts said. But If you throw frogs for example mono or Flouro would not be the best choice.
So to answer your question, braid would be the only line I would use if I had to choose only one. The rods action, drag and hook set should be considered and adjusted
I use Flouro for everything except anything on top. For those it's braid.
And don't even consider mono for anything.
Mike
I don't use the same rod and reel for everything, so why would I do the same for line? I let the strengths of each type of line match up to the worst circumstances of fishing situations, and go from there. Having different line types make problem solving easier.
I'm with J Francho on this, too. For a couple of rigs I like fluorocarbon mainline, on others braid with a
leader and a couple with monofilament. However, if you are looking to simplify your selection, I would
recommend #6 Yo-Zuri Hybrid for spinning tackle and #12 Hybrid for baitcasting.
Most of the time I go fishing with two identical baitcasting combos with monofilament line. 7' medium-heavy fast and Trilene XT 14-pound test monofilament. Part of it is because I fish from a kayak. I am not packing 15 rods. I also like to be able to lay my rods down on the front deck so that I can slide underneath overhanging branches (happens very frequently on the waters I fish).
What I lose in versatility I believe I gain in casting accuracy, making better presentations, hooking bass and landing bass. This approach is not for everybody but I know Rick Clunn used to employ a similar strategy on the water. See the short article below.
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If a tournament circuit told you that you could only fish one type of rod and one type of reel at its events, you'd think they were nuts. Well, what about Rick Clunn?
The man with arguably the greatest record ever in the sport of bass fishing uses just one rod and just one reel for 98 percent of his fishing: a Bass Pro Shops Rick Clunn 704 series heavy-action 7-foot rod, and a 6.3:1 Rick Clunn XPS signature reel. Why? Read on.
"If you look in my rod box you won't see a different rod and reel than those unless I'm fishing a spinning rod," Clunn says. "The reason is that it's a fallacy that you have to have different rods and reels to be a bass fisherman."
Best for Hooking and Landing
"The No. 1 rod for hooking and landing fish is a heavy-action, 7- foot, long-handled rod," he says. "You won't lose fish on that rod.
"If you want to mess around with lighter actions or medium-heavies, then fine. But accept that you will lose fish. That's not acceptable for me.
"I'm not changing because someone says you need to have a soft-tip rod to cast a (Norman) Tiny N. You don't -- it's a fallacy, especially when you sacrifice landing fish."
Rod History
Clunn fished glass (fiberglass) rods early in his career and favored them. But "it got harder and harder to get companies to provide with me with quality glass rods," he says.
When Bass Pro Shops approached him about a sponsorship, he asked the company to make him a composite rod with the type of action he liked. "I kept testing the rods, and the one rod I liked is the heavy-action rod.
"Anytime you go away from a heavy rod you will lose fish," he reiterates. "Most people want light-tip rods because they think it's better for casting and it wiggles better in the store. Heavier rods are like a cue stick in the store.
"But on the water, it will hook and land more fish any other rod."
High-Speed Reels
The matter of reel choice is simple: You can slow fast-retrieve-ratio (6.3:1) reels down, but "you can't speed up a slower reel without wearing yourself out," Clunn notes.
He also says that durability and castability are key factors in using one reel. "They have to be able to cast those big baits -- making 3-4 casts a minute with a big 3/4-ounce spinnerbait -- without breaking down."
Rhythm
Clunn's casting is "a matter of rhythm," he says. And "anytime you change to another rod with another reel you have to adjust. You'll sacrifice your accuracy because of that.
"The only thing I have to adjust to is the weight of the lure. That's how I get my accuracy: rhythm.
"It's like shooting a basketball. Once you're in that rhythm it's fine, but once you get out of it you're not. And changing your rod every 30 minutes or so is one of the major ways to get out of that rhythm."
History Behind It
"The best year I ever had in fishing was the first year I ever did this," Clunn says, referring to his great 2000 season. "I know it works.
"What winning translates into is execution, not losing fish. And I probably lost less fish that year than any other year in my career. And this year has been the same way.
"That's the bottom line," he says. "It's not the hype you give something. It's whether it works."
Not for Everyone?
Despite Clunn's conviction that the one rod, one reel method works for him, he says that it might not be right for everyone.
"If you're not losing any fish and you're happy with what you're doing, don't change," he says. Try his method "only if you're losing more fish than you think you should be, or if you're not happy with what you're doing.
"If that's not a problem, don't change."
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Good for Rick Clunn. He's a whole lot better fisherman than most of us, and whatever disadvantage his plan presents, will result in exponential issues for someone with my fishing talents. I'd rather avoid that pitfall.
My uncle uses nothing but mono. Ive had braid on my rods since I've began fishing, that's just what I've seen everyone use but he just put mono on one of my rods and I can honestly say I wasn't to conidfent to use it but I can really appreciate the mono now. It's cast so much smoother than my reel with braid but yet I that reel is a $70 lews vs a Shimano Curado. It will defiantly be staying on my setup and might but it on a few more. My reason for going straight braid is to me it's just the most reliable, with being on the bank and having to fish over all the gunk and shrubs, it just makes more sense to me.
Clunn can do that because all he throws is a spinnerbait or crankbait, both of which work fine on a heavy glass rod.
15# Big Game for everything but punching!
My hookup ratio is in the upper 90 percentile range so I do not believe the stretch associated with mono effects my hookup ratio any. The abrasion resistance & shock absorption of Big Game is unmatched by any.
I've fished braided Cotton, Dacron, Micron, Suture Material (Silk), Micro Dyneema®, Kevlar, & Spectra. I am trying braid with frogs again but the frog bite around here is limiting any testing!
Fluorocarbon; as much stretch as mono with far less abrasion resistance & shock absorption.
I use nothing but 20# triline but i dont fish places with heavy grass or anything never had any problem with it (my grandfather showed it to me and never had a problem either)
My dad for most of his fishing career used 12lb. Berkley Trilene XL on his baitcasting gear and 6-8lb. XL on his spinning gear. And he was an excellent fisherman. I find that I use a mix of mono and braid just because I think it is something to try and improve my skills with. I also use flouro occasionally but seem to always find myself returning to mono for most things. Braid for frogs, heavy cover, but mono and flouro for everything else.
On 5/23/2017 at 9:16 PM, roadwarrior said:I'm with J Francho on this, too. For a couple of rigs I like fluorocarbon mainline, on others braid with a
leader and a couple with monofilament. However, if you are looking to simplify your selection, I would
recommend #6 Yo-Zuri Hybrid for spinning tackle and #12 Hybrid for baitcasting.
Does #12 float?
I use braid because I don't like stretch in my line. I fish from a kayak and feel like I can't get a solid hookset with mono or fc. I use a leader only when the water gets very clear or if I'm fishing really rocky water. Test varries from 10/2 to 50/12.
On 5/23/2017 at 10:37 PM, TX-Deluxe said:Does #12 float?
Surface tension allows the line to float, but I would still call this "neutral buoyancy".
The line will not rise like a bobber when it is underwater, but it does not sink on its
own. For fishing applications this attribute has no impact on your presentations one
way or another.
Apart from my finesse setup which is straight 100% fluorocarbon, everything else is braid with a fluoro leader or straight braid.
I used to use just mono but I really like the control that braid gives me over my presentations which consist of baits like crankbaits, jerkbaits, spinnerbaits, topwaters, and chatterbaits.
For years I used Mono for everything. That's because that was what I first used and it was all I knew. I use different lines for different techniques now.
By watching Roland Martin on TV I discovered Spiderwire Braid. Reading these forums helped me understand the difference between braid, mono, and fluro.
There is one case in which the science of the line takes precedence over personal preferences, and that is fishing surface lures like a Chug Bug. FC sinks so readily that it adversely affects the way the lure works, so I always use a neutral buoyancy line, usually mono, for surface. Braid is about the same density as mono.
All line will work in all situations it is really confidence in what you are fishing with in my opinion. Primary reason for me to use braid to leader (Mono/FC/Copoly) is because of cost really. Braid I do not have to change out the line every season like the other lines. A spool of braid on my reels will last years.
I use the line that performs good under the conditions I am fishing.
65 lb Fins braid in heavy cover.
10, 12, 14 lb Sniper FC for sparse cover deep structure jigs, worms and spoons on casting reels.
7 lb Sniper FC for spinning drop shot and 1/8 or less jigs, nail weight rigs.
6 lb Natural mono spinning slip shot rig.
25 lb Armillo Deifer mono for swim and wake baits, casting reels.
12 lb Big Game or 11 lb Armillo Diefer mono for top water, crankbaits, spinnerbaits, jerkbaits, etc. casting reels.
No reason not to use a line suited for the presentation. Not into the 1 size fits all group.
Tom
On 5/23/2017 at 10:37 PM, TX-Deluxe said:Does #12 float?
The only line that I've found that truly floats is Tuf-Line Supercast. I like the 20# size for topwater.
Yo-Zuri hybrid doesn't float, it's heavier than nylon mono line.
If you cast your line out and let it sit, Hybrid and FC line will sink to the bottom without any weigh added, mono and braid will stay on or near the surface.
Tom
On 5/23/2017 at 11:11 PM, Finesse Wayfarer said:By watching Roland Martin on TV I discovered Spiderwire Braid.
I use braid exclusively if I'm fishing with a lot of tree cover on the shoreline. It helps me rip my lures out of the branches.
I loved and still love watching Roland Martin fish.
On 5/23/2017 at 9:16 PM, roadwarrior said:I'm with J Francho on this, too. For a couple of rigs I like fluorocarbon mainline, on others braid with a
leader and a couple with monofilament. However, if you are looking to simplify your selection, I would
recommend #6 Yo-Zuri Hybrid for spinning tackle and #12 Hybrid for baitcasting.
This is almost exactly what I do. 6 and 14 (except I amp it up to #8 for my second spinning reel because I want to fish soft plastics with it too).
6 lb Yo-Zuri line is the same size as 10lb Seaguar or Sunline, except a hybrid, not a copolymer, not mono or FC, it's a compromise line
Tom
Any angler of advanced age would tell you that nylon monofilament was the line-of-choice for many decades.
Back in the day, there was no such animal as ‘braided polyethylene’, instead we fished with
‘braided Dacron’ (polyester) and ‘braided Nylon’. For offshore trolling in the Atlantic Ocean,
I also used lead-core line & monel wire line (talk about a nightmare!).
When you think about it, the 1990s was a decade of epic change in the world of fishing line.
“Braided polyethylene" (Superline) was introduced in the beginning of the 90s, while “Fluorocarbon"
was introduced at the end of the 1990s. With regard to Superline, I was slow getting onboard
and didn’t spool up with polyethylene braid until 2005 (Duh!). In contrast, I promptly boarded
the fluorocarbon train shortly after it made its debut. At that time however, fluorocarbon was sold
chiefly as leader material in 25-yard snap-hoops. I still have a bunch of 40-lb spools
of Stren High Impact Fluorocarbon Leader in my line drawer (antiques?). Unlike freshwater leaders,
the norm in saltwater is a leader that’s twice the breaking strength of the main line (gill plate protection).
A 40-lb leader is used with 20-lb tackle, a 60-lb leader is used with 30-lb tackle, and so on.
I apologize for a long-winded introduction, but it never hurts to qualify a response.
Today I use straight polyethylene braid without a leader, nearly all the time for nearly everything.
Let me qualify that statement as well. I use P-Line CXX for tying drop-shot rigs and a P-Line CXX leader for smallmouth bass, which typically involves jagged rocks and shell-beds.
Roger
I use mono, copoly, FC and braid. Depends on the situation.
On 5/23/2017 at 10:09 PM, Catt said:15# Big Game for everything but punching!
My hookup ratio is in the upper 90 percentile range so I do not believe the stretch associated with mono effects my hookup ratio any. The abrasion resistance & shock absorption of Big Game is unmatched by any.
Fluorocarbon; as much stretch as mono with far less abrasion resistance & shock absorption.
Pretty much the same for me except I use XT. I've no need of fluorocarbon. Punch and frog with braid and use a little Fireline but most days it's all mono for me!