So I've been doing regularly dry casting with my new Daiwa R CT-100HS and I'm noticing something about it that seems kinda buggy to me. I've gotten mostly used to the feel so I've been tying on heavier weights in order to see how it compares to some of my other reels for things like jig or moving hard lure applications. I can't honestly say I'm seeing any difference between casting a weighted float (as a bench mark), a 1/4 jig, 1/2 jig/lipless or a 3/4 jig/lipless in terms of distance. There's something not right somewhere.
As long as I don't backlash on the beginning (like when I try to launch too hard), I don't even have to touch the spool, even during the landing, cause the spool literally fades out and dies at a certain point every time. Seems like most it does period is just about 30-35 yards, which I can accomplish with a simple side-roll type of cast without a whole bunch of effort. Seems like the farther I want it to go the shorter it actually goes. I even turned the mag brake to "0" and every setting in between "0" and "max", used several differently rated poles, to the same effect. Just seems off to me and I have no idea what's causing the spool to go from "Zzzzzzz" to absolutely nothing in a second. I have loosened the cast knob up enough so that the spool has a little side to side movement but maybe I need to back it off to an extreme? Only thing I can figure, just not sure how much is too much and don't want to risk damaging anything.
Spool tension knob may need to be adjusted sounds like it's a little too snug.
Tom
I'm gonna back it off a little more... just didn't want it super loose. Was also thinking there might be a big ole wad of packing grease in the gears. I should probably take side plate off and check to be sure. That always causes issues anyway down the road.
Set spool tension to barley any side to side play, put mag breaks around 12 or 14 and back them down from there. On all my reels with the magforce z brakes I dont have to touch the spool tension. Just the mag brakes.
Your spool tension is way to tight, that reel is supposed to have a loser spool tension and rely more on your brakes. I have that same reel and I cant bomb a clipless crank 50 yards+
Could be the rod. I only have had this type of problem when therod doesn’t load with what I was casting. But there’s lots of other variables here.
Get a lews
Jk... kinda????
Spool end knob adjustment isn't more then 1/4 to 1/2 turn once the knob is set correctly. Correctly = with the lure you plan to cast tied on push the spool release the lure should drop with a slight tension not free falling and when the lure hits the floor the spool shouldn't keep spinning creating loose line. The difference between free fall and slight line tension isn't more then 1/4 to 1/2 turn loosening.
If you are turning the knob more then something else is happening like too much factory lubricant or a bad spool bearing.
Tom
Some Daiwas come over greased from the factory. You might need to flush the bearings and reoil
Loosen the spool tension to the point where the spool will move side to side. Tighten the spool tension until you just eliminate side to side play. Never touch it again. Set the mag dial to the middle setting and have at it from there. Go up or down on the mag dial as conditions dictate. If you can't cast 50 yards with a a 1/2 oz lipless crank then something else is at work here.
Check this 1st. Remove the side plate and see if you have magnet rotation when turning the mag control dial. Looks to me that you won't see the outside magnet turning. If there is a glue issue with the magnet and the magnet carrier, the magnets will stay "aligned" and the mag force will be max. Been there.
(And don't think you'll find the bearings lubed with grease. Factory oiled, yes.)
Karl
Try to set spool tension like this
set mag dial to 0
set spool tension where the lure drop freely but no overrun when the lure hit water.
Now you can set mag dial to any you prefer, adjust only mag dial until you not get backlash.
Almost sounds to me like the mag force braking is not disengaging. I'd inspect there first.
Yup, one of the magnets is free. (Misspoke earlier about outside magnet. Could be either. The test is to turn the mag dial and check for the magnets to move in opposition). If they move together or don't move at all when turning the dial, the mag force will always be at max. I repaired a Diawa with this exact symptom. It's a sorta tricky to fix if haven't taken apart the mag system. First time is the hardest. Sounds like a new reel, so should be a warranty repair.
Karl
Okay, so some mixed info here on this thread.. let's start with the spool tension. I originally set it like I would by other reels- so that there's no over run when it hits the ground, but sounds like these reels like some side to side play. So I reset it so that there is some side to side play but not a whole lot. I backed it off a bit more today and while it did help a little I still see the spool dying way shorter than it should. So it's possible that what yall are saying about the mag brakes being stuck is possible. I've never messed with mag brakes but lemme see if they are noticably doing anything with side plate and I'll follow-up on that.
My rods are probably not ideal, and I will be looking into better options. I am kind of wanting this reel for primarily crankbait and jig applications, and I saw a st. croix today with a mod-fast action that I think would fit the bill better. I say this because I put on a 3/4 blade bait and actually managed to clear the bank of my pond, so seems like maybe the poles just aren't loading right at that 1/4 to 1/2 oz mark. If anything I have 2 that overload at 1/2 oz and one that underloads. These are my primary rods... none of them particularly high end. So that itself may be an issue. I've never been one for long casting, but I know the reel should do better based on how it sounds from the launch.
Will investigate brakes and update in a bit. Thanks!
Edit: so my reel seems to have two magnetic rings. The outer rings has a set of gears that engages various levels. There is an inner ring, which is stationary, and an outer ring, which has a toggle gear that changes according to the level of magnetic engaged. I don't really see any evidence of malfunction there unless I am missing something.
The outer ring is what should move with the mag adjustment dial. The inner ring is stationary.
Just check that outer magnet itself is indeed turning. Not just the plastic frame. And for the inner magnet, check that the inner magnet itself is not turning with the dial.
Karl
Yep it's definitely turning with it, I can see the point where the notch it, and at the maximum the notch on outer lines up with the notch on the inner, so that seems to be working properly.
Well that's good to hear that the Mag control is working as far as the magnets are concerned. The next check with the system is the spool's inductor. It moves in and out of the gap between the 2 magnets. Your Tatula has Magforce Z control. Try this: Remove side plate again. Check if the cylindrical inductor at the end of the spool moves in and out. It's spring loaded, and normally sits close to the spool. Try to gently pull the inductor away from the spool. I'm thinking that the spool's inductor may be stuck in it's "out" position, which would limit casting distance.
Karl
(Your spool is perforated. Be careful when spooling line. Never let line go into the spool through the holes - especially on the inductor side. This could interfere with the "in/out" movement of the inductor.)
On 12/11/2018 at 1:11 AM, diehardbassfishing said:Well that's good to hear that the Mag control is working as far as the magnets are concerned. The next check with the system is the spool's inductor. It moves in and out of the gap between the 2 magnets. Your Tatula has Magforce Z control. Try this: Remove side plate again. Check if the cylindrical inductor at the end of the spool moves in and out. It's spring loaded, and normally sits close to the spool. Try to gently pull the inductor away from the spool. I'm thinking that the spool's inductor may be stuck in it's "out" position, which would limit casting distance.
Karl
(Your spool is perforated. Be careful when spooling line. Never let line go into the spool through the holes - especially on the inductor side. This could interfere with the "in/out" movement of the inductor.)
Never interesting, I never noticed that before! Well it was in the in position when I checked it, and does move out and in freely. I did actually use the spool holes when I spooled line on, but it was very low diameter braided line so that should be okay I think. I think it's my poles tbh. I just never noticed them limiting distance previously cause I had never had real high end reels before to run bass rigs like these. I have an Abu I like for catfishing, but it's usually throwing heavier rigs than I would run for bass. So thinking I need one that will better load in the 1/4 to 1/2 category of weighted lures. Maybe even a mod-fast action as well. I saw a St. Croix that should fit the bill so I might get that for myself for Christmas.
What is the brake dial set to?
On 12/12/2018 at 2:14 PM, BaitFinesse said:What is the brake dial set to?
Been experimenting with it from 0-6 primarily. I don't think I'll run it much higher than that.
You shouldn't be able to run it that low if the spool tension is set correctly. If you have the spool tension set to just eliminate side to side play or even have a tiny bit of side to side play and can run the mag dial below 6 and still are suffering short casts then something is wrong with the reel and it needs to be exchanged. Please ignore any advice you get about setting the spool tension so that it does not backlash when the bait hits the floor on a free spool. Setting up up a Magforce Z reel this way will result in too much spool tension and poor casting peeformance.
On 12/13/2018 at 2:29 AM, BaitFinesse said:Please ignore any advice you get about setting the spool tension so that it does not backlash when the bait hits the floor on a free spool. Setting up up a Magforce Z reel this way will result in too much spool tension and poor casting peeformance.
It amazes me how poor of a job Daiwa has done getting the message out about this. Like they have gone so far as to promote "Making it harder to mess with the spool tension" as a high-end feature just to keep people from messing with it, but I don't think any of the Magforce Z or SV reels I have bought NIB have come with any instructions about how to set them an a head's up that their brake system is different then most other out there.
Yep run that tension loose. On my tats dropping a senko from 1 foot high will result in big overrun same on all my reels.
I have it pretty loose so it moves maybe 1/8th inch either way. Lures are basically a free fall to the ground. Should I loosen it more than that? Certainly new to me even having one that loose.
Yeah dont think its moving an 1/8" not that much space between spool and frame. 1/16" total maybe with spool tension cap nearly falling off. But you only need a 1-2mm wiggle. If too loose line could get between spool and frame.
So check and make sure there isnt a gap showing near the edge of spool when you wiggle it a bit. If on a cast and you get some chatter tighten tension cap a little at a time.
On 12/13/2018 at 1:29 PM, FishDewd said:I have it pretty loose so it moves maybe 1/8th inch either way. Lures are basically a free fall to the ground. Should I loosen it more than that? Certainly new to me even having one that loose.
No. Just a slight click at most in either direction. Do this: Reel the line in and tape the tag end to the spool. Set the brake dial at zero. Click the thumb bar down. Give the spool a fast spin with a finger. How long does it spin?
On 12/13/2018 at 1:56 PM, QUAKEnSHAKE said:
Yeah dont think its moving an 1/8" not that much space between spool and frame. 1/16" total maybe with spool tension cap nearly falling off. But you only need a 1-2mm wiggle. If too loose line could get between spool and frame.
So check and make sure there isnt a gap showing near the edge of spool when you wiggle it a bit. If on a cast and you get some chatter tighten tension cap a little at a time.
1/16 = .0625, 2mm = .0786, movement more then 1/64 = .0165 would be more then enough.
Tom
Something is wrong with the reel. I would return it if possible or send it in for repair if returning it is not an option.
No, once the spool is loose just the least bit, going more will do nothing. I set my reels to be "loose then tighten aprox 1/10 of a turn". This just helps the line from going backlash with a simple clutch released free spool. Amazing how a spool can run away on you while doing nothing!
Karl
On 12/13/2018 at 1:56 PM, PhishLI said:No. Just a slight click at most in either direction. Do this: Reel the line in and tape the tag end to the spool. Set the brake dial at zero. Click the thumb bar down. Give the spool a fast spin with a finger. How long does it spin?
About 6 seconds with a hard flick.