I've always used Berkley Vanish flourocarbon but just bought a new reel and am thinking of trying mono this time in a low vis green, heard that mono has less memory than flouro...is this true? Other than memory what are the differences between mono and flouro (especially the low vis green vs. Vanish)?
Vanish has been improved in the last few years, but it's still not a very good fluoro (and that's coming from a Berkley fan). I really like their 100% fluoro as it's less brittle and manages well. The differences between Vanish and a mono are their water absorption, their sensitivity, abrasion resistance, and how they act in the water.
Fluoro doesn't absorb water so it's characteristics stay consistent throughout the day. Mono in general will absorb water and when it does it becomes a little more stretchy.
Fluoro is made out of a more dense material so not only does it sink in the water column, but it also transmits vibrations better and in my opinion creates a more sensitive line. For the same reason, I feel it helps transmit bites better for semi-slack line presentations such as wacky rigging.
When it comes to abrasion resistance between the two, I feel there's a trade off. In a mono, there isn't as much abrasion resistance, but to me it doesn't seem to lose as much strength if it is nicked. Fluoro is more abrasion resistant, but when it does get a nick in it, it seem to lose strength a bit quicker than a mono.
As far as how they act in the water, like I mentioned mono floats in most cases, where fluoro sinks. Although the two lines have somewhat similar stretch rates, I think this is why people don't feel that fluoro stretches as much. With mono the line is almost always wanting to rise up in the water column creating somewhat of a bow in your line under water. When you set the hook you're overcoming the slack in the line and pulling it tight and then the line stretches. With fluoro I think the line keeps a more direct path to the bait so when you set the hook with that you only feel the line itself stretch.
Above are my observations from using both mono and fluoro. Both are good lines and have their place in the fishing arsenal. If I were you I'd venture away from Vanish and at least step up to 100% Pro Grade. If you're worried about the cost difference, I intentionally left the same line on one of my most heavily used rods for two years just to see if it broke down over time. If it did I didn't notice any loss of performance, and still had zero issues with it. If I had to choose between vanish and XT or XL I'd choose either of those mono's before Vanish but to each his own. Figure out what you like and what works for you!
Well, I'm not married to Vanish in flourocarbon, what else would you recommend? I really don't want to spend $20 on 200yds. of line but I've heard the Seaguar Invizx is really good.
Try a spool of Yo-Zuri Hybrid, #12 for baitcasters, #6 for spinning. Most guys like it, but some don't. It's inexpensive so if it doesn't work out, you have lost very little. Another line I have been very happy with is Izorline XXX.
On 4/7/2016 at 1:07 AM, Brett's_daddy said:Well, I'm not married to Vanish in flourocarbon, what else would you recommend? I really don't want to spend $20 on 200yds. of line but I've heard the Seaguar Invizx is really good.
Just use backing and that spool will go a lot farther. I usually respool 3 reels with one filler spool and use that for the whole year. You can use what's left as a leader material on another setup.
On 4/7/2016 at 12:54 AM, WIGuide said:Vanish has been improved in the last few years, but it's still not a very good fluoro (and that's coming from a Berkley fan). I really like their 100% fluoro as it's less brittle and manages well. The differences between Vanish and a mono are their water absorption, their sensitivity, abrasion resistance, and how they act in the water.
Fluoro doesn't absorb water so it's characteristics stay consistent throughout the day. Mono in general will absorb water and when it does it becomes a little more stretchy.
Fluoro is made out of a more dense material so not only does it sink in the water column, but it also transmits vibrations better and in my opinion creates a more sensitive line. For the same reason, I feel it helps transmit bites better for semi-slack line presentations such as wacky rigging.
When it comes to abrasion resistance between the two, I feel there's a trade off. In a mono, there isn't as much abrasion resistance, but to me it doesn't seem to lose as much strength if it is nicked. Fluoro is more abrasion resistant, but when it does get a nick in it, it seem to lose strength a bit quicker than a mono.
As far as how they act in the water, like I mentioned mono floats in most cases, where fluoro sinks. Although the two lines have somewhat similar stretch rates, I think this is why people don't feel that fluoro stretches as much. With mono the line is almost always wanting to rise up in the water column creating somewhat of a bow in your line under water. When you set the hook you're overcoming the slack in the line and pulling it tight and then the line stretches. With fluoro I think the line keeps a more direct path to the bait so when you set the hook with that you only feel the line itself stretch.
Above are my observations from using both mono and fluoro. Both are good lines and have their place in the fishing arsenal. If I were you I'd venture away from Vanish and at least step up to 100% Pro Grade. If you're worried about the cost difference, I intentionally left the same line on one of my most heavily used rods for two years just to see if it broke down over time. If it did I didn't notice any loss of performance, and still had zero issues with it. If I had to choose between vanish and XT or XL I'd choose either of those mono's before Vanish but to each his own. Figure out what you like and what works for you!
I agree with everything except I have yet to find a fluorocarbon that as abrasions resistance as Big Game.
If you use an actual fluorocarbon leader material, it's more resistant to abrasion than anything besides steel wire, but you don't want more than a couple feet of it on the end of your line. It's REALLY unmanageable, even the lighter rated lines.
The new Seaguar Flippin' Fluorocarbon is tough as nails!
http://seaguar.com/freshwater/flippin.html
Wally World sells my favorite fluorocarbon for $10 a spool. Red Label by Seaguar is on 15 out of my 20 setups, the other 5 have braid (dropshot, flipping, topwaters all get brid). I choose fluoro because of the minimal stretch and the transparency of the line in the water, also the fact that it sinks makes it a must for me with crankbaits.
On 4/7/2016 at 8:53 PM, MainelyBASS said:Wally World sells my favorite fluorocarbon for $10 a spool. Red Label by Seaguar is on 15 out of my 20 setups, the other 5 have braid (dropshot, flipping, topwaters all get brid). I choose fluoro because of the minimal stretch and the transparency of the line in the water, also the fact that it sinks makes it a must for me with crankbaits.
Flourocarbon stretches more, not less. Search the site. Someone did a study... Google it as well.
On 4/7/2016 at 10:35 PM, dave said:Flourocarbon stretches more, not less. Search the site. Someone did a study... Google it as well.
It may stretch more under static conditions, but it transmits vibration, has a smaller diameter to strength ratio, and is denser-causing it to sink with less felt resistance in the water. Fluorocarbon is superior to mono in all "contact" techniques in my opinion. I have done my testing on the water, and my choice will always be fluorocarbon with a good copolymer like P-Line CXX or YZ Hybrid a close second. Mono has its place but not on a jig or plastics rod. Catt and others will be along shortly to tell you that mono has been catching fish for a while now and skill, not line is what matters.
On 4/7/2016 at 1:07 AM, Brett's_daddy said:Well, I'm not married to Vanish in flourocarbon, what else would you recommend? I really don't want to spend $20 on 200yds. of line but I've heard the Seaguar Invizx is really good.
i personally really like abraz-x, i've tried vanish and i've never had more problems with break offs
Vanish - it's what happens to your fish when you use this line!
On 4/7/2016 at 8:27 PM, roadwarrior said:The new Seaguar Flippin' Fluorocarbon is tough as nails!
http://seaguar.com/freshwater/flippin.html
Ya really gotta stop that!
I don't wanna try another line
On 4/7/2016 at 11:01 PM, K_Mac said:Catt and others will be along shortly to tell you that mono has been catching fish for a while now and skill, not line is what matters.
If it matters to you then that's all that matters!
Just because I like Big Game doesn't mean I don't experiment!
Red Label 10 lbs and under is pretty good. Better than a good nylon? Maybe, maybe not. Yo Zuri is decent but feels dead in my hands; casts nicely, knots well, and is very manageable though. If you want good fluoro, you're gonna have to break out the wallet unfortunately.
On 4/7/2016 at 11:01 PM, K_Mac said:It may stretch more under static conditions, but it transmits vibration, has a smaller diameter to strength ratio, and is denser-causing it to sink with less felt resistance in the water. Fluorocarbon is superior to mono in all "contact" techniques in my opinion. I have done my testing on the water, and my choice will always be fluorocarbon with a good copolymer like P-Line CXX or YZ Hybrid a close second. Mono has its place but not on a jig or plastics rod. Catt and others will be along shortly to tell you that mono has been catching fish for a while now and skill, not line is what matters.
So you're saying that Aaron Martens, Kevin Vandam and Jason Christie are wrong?
One must resist the urge to get emotional and defensive over....fishing line.
It won't love you back. Trust me. But don't ask how I know!
On 4/8/2016 at 2:47 AM, MainelyBASS said:So you're saying that Aaron Martens, Kevin Vandam and Jason Christie are wrong?
I am not saying any such thing. Everyone of those guys uses fluorocarbon. I am not saying that mono or braid is not great for some applications either. Just that FOR ME fluorocarbon is a better choice for contact baits, unless cover is thick enough to require braid. I will not admit to any emotional attachment to fluorocarbon though. Unless treated carefully it will break your heart.
I've been using 10# Gander Mountain fluorocarbon for a couple months. It's thicker than higher priced brands like Seaguar and Sunline but I don't have any complaints yet. At $20 for 400 yards you can't beat the price either.
On 4/8/2016 at 3:21 AM, K_Mac said:I am not saying any such thing. Everyone of those guys uses fluorocarbon. I am not saying that mono or braid is not great for some applications either. Just that FOR ME fluorocarbon is a better choice for contact baits, unless cover is thick enough to require braid. I will not admit to any emotional attachment to fluorocarbon though. Unless treated carefully it will break your heart.
Ok no biggy. I was just responding to your notion that I google "fluorocarbon being more stretchy than mono" When I did that, I found videos and blogs from those guys talking about how fluorocarbon has a lot less stretch than mono. I'm sure if I dug deeper I would have found something that said the opposite, but I will go by the words of KVD and other pros. I don't need to try and disprove the theory.
There are many studies showing that under static pressure FC will stretch more than mono when dry. After they both have been in the water very long the differences are much less. The reason the pro's use fluorocarbon for many techniques is because it works. Some will insist that it only because of sponsorship, but I am not that cynical and have found it also works better for me.
How fluorocarbon feels and handles when I use it are the only real characteristics that much matter to me. How much it stretches and whether it is worth the cost are secondary concerns. If I can't afford to buy it I'll use copolymer instead. If I can save my nickles for the occasional spool of FC, you can bet that's what I will have on a few of my rods. I have found that it lasts longer on my reels than mono or copolymer, which reduces the cost a bit.
It's all good! Use what you like. It's just fishing.
On 4/8/2016 at 2:47 AM, MainelyBASS said:So you're saying that Aaron Martens, Kevin Vandam and Jason Christie are wrong?
Do a search in this forum & read the test results for yourself!
No need to. You guys are right. Fluoro has more stretch than mono.
On 4/8/2016 at 9:21 AM, MainelyBASS said:No need to. You guys are right. Fluoro has more stretch than mono.
http://www.bassresource.com/bass-fishing-forums/topic/171709-annual-line-stretch-test-updated-2016/#comment-1944844
flawless science
Remember, pros are paid to sell fluorocarbon, not to provide correct technical information.
Honestly y'all really got to stop with this Fluoro vs Mono vs Braid vs Copolymer vs what ever else. This is not the way you should think about it. It's all of the above. This whole argument is like saying. Which is better? Soft baits vs hard baits vs wire baits. The answer is they are all tools to use when the situation calls. You need them all.
Edited by Incheon BasserFishing with what line you can afford and cast comfortably with and spend more time on the water = a better fishing experience.
I'm looking for a good all-around line...I don't have the reels or spare spools to have a bunch of different lines for every occasion. Can braid be used as an all around bass fishing line? Is there a lb test chart for flouro and the comparable thickness braid line (i.e. - is a 20lb. braid the same thickness as a 8lb flouro)? I was thinking maybe the Power Pro Moss Green would be a good choice but I don't know much about braided lines. I'm thinking of leaning towards the Seaguar Red Label flouro for my trout fishing.
On 4/8/2016 at 9:40 PM, Brett's_daddy said:I'm looking for a good all-around line...I don't have the reels or spare spools to have a bunch of different lines for every occasion. Can braid be used as an all around bass fishing line? Is there a lb test chart for flouro and the comparable thickness braid line (i.e. - is a 20lb. braid the same thickness as a 8lb flouro)? I was thinking maybe the Power Pro Moss Green would be a good choice but I don't know much about braided lines. I'm thinking of leaning towards the Seaguar Red Label flouro for my trout fishing.
I wish there was any sort of industry standard. It would make our lives easier. Power Pro makes diameter equivalency claims but they are pretty much worthless. Plus PP is sort of oval shaped. However 30 or 40 lb green is a great all-around line. I use a lot of 30 lb, with and without a leader.
On 4/9/2016 at 2:05 AM, Cgrinder said:I wish there was any sort of industry standard. It would make our lives easier. Power Pro makes diameter equivalency claims but they are pretty much worthless. Plus PP is sort of oval shaped. However 30 or 40 lb green is a great all-around line. I use a lot of 30 lb, with and without a leader.
There is an industry standard in Japan. They rate braided line by its denier. And the Japanese equivalent of the ASA enforces the ratings. This system allows for a much more scientific approach to strength ratings. Braided line can not be measured in diameter accurately due to it's irregular shape. Denier is a weight based system.
Hey Incheon Basser! Just noticed your screen name and Singal Reservoir in S. Korea as one of your favorite locations. I was out there for a while too and Singal was a pretty awesome fishery for sure! There were some good spots close to Incheon as well as well as more south of Seoul.
On 4/6/2016 at 10:43 PM, Brett's_daddy said:I've always used Berkley Vanish flourocarbon but just bought a new reel and am thinking of trying mono this time in a low vis green, heard that mono has less memory than flouro...is this true? Other than memory what are the differences between mono and flouro (especially the low vis green vs. Vanish)?
In my limited fluorocarbon line experience...yes. I think most will agree to that. It has been stated mono will absorb water. I can believe that. Mono can coil after sitting awhile. Make a few casts and after it gets wet memory becomes less. Don't take my word. Spool up some Big Game and try it for yourself. Also the better the abrasion resistance, the harder the line. The harder the line, the more memory....whether it is fluorocarbon, monofilament, co-polymer or a hybrid. Don't think so? Spool up 12# Big Game on one rod and 12# Suffix Elite on another. Spool up 12# Izorline Platinum on one rod and 12# AN40 on another. Hit the water and let me know your results. I already know mine.
Not only did a bassresource member test 20 lines on his own, but TackleTour also did a test on the stretch of fluorocarbon lines. I have to chuckle when I read that fluoro lines have no...or very little stretch. I've only had to test the breaking strength of fluoro one time. It stretched like a rubber band. It also resulted in my having to cut off another few feet of line because of how it frayed. I don't have to do that with mono.
TackleTour also tested the knot strength of fluoro against mono. Fluoro doesn't quite match up to the knot strength of other lines. It also needs to be kept good and wet when tying a knot. Of course you should keep any line wet that isn't a braid. It just seems that fluoro requires it more than other lines for best knot strength.
I fell into the "I need fluoro because the pros use it", trap for a few years. I'm tired of the memory and the mysterious breakoffs. I've gone back to almost all copolymer, braid, or mono. I think if you can afford to buy the higher end stuff it's worth it, or if you fish really clear water all the time, but I don't.
The good thing about switching back is it's allowed me to be able to afford those high end lines for the couple of rods that I keep fluoro on for when I do fish clear water (Tatsu and Flippin fluoro). Much happier now and so is my wallet since I'm mainly fishing Big Game or Pline C21.
Tried some Sunline Sniper recently, spooled on about 100 feet backed by braid. I like the clarity, the abrasion resistance and the fact it sinks but was surprised how stiff it was, had a lot of problems with it even using a line conditioner. Removed it and replaced with YZ Ultrasoft. I'll continue using it for short leaders but that's the extent of it for me.
On 4/8/2016 at 3:21 AM, K_Mac said:I am not saying any such thing. Everyone of those guys uses fluorocarbon. I am not saying that mono or braid is not great for some applications either. Just that FOR ME fluorocarbon is a better choice for contact baits, unless cover is thick enough to require braid. I will not admit to any emotional attachment to fluorocarbon though. Unless treated carefully it will break your heart.
Top shot braid to floro with rp knot our aussie quickie,great for throwing true weightless presentations on bc. 2in Berkely flat head minnow
Fishing line preference conversations are like asking how everyone like their coffee in the morning...if any.
I prefer monofilament line over flourocarbon.
Try Big Game,Been using it for years with no Complaints .
Theirs no need for mono in my book mono is completely useless. A good coploymer or floro is all you need Yozuri hybrid or pline Cx premium are the perfect lines for moving baits and cheap.
Pline tactical florocarbo for all your bottom baits is my recommendation best floro I’ve ever used.
Cx premium and pline tactical both on sale at discount tackle
https://discounttackle.com/pages/tackle-4-life
On 9/14/2018 at 10:49 AM, bowhunter63 said:Try Big Game,Been using it for years with no Complaints .
Berkley Big Game Mono is also my favorite monofilament line for both freshwater and saltwater fishing. It is cheap, has great abrasion resistance, and of good quality.
Ok question for anyone. I am just starting to get into Bass fishing and am trying to pick the right line for my needs. I have a baitcaster I will be setting up and a spinning reel to setup. With only 2 reels being used what type of line should I put on each? I have fished crappie my whole life and decided I would like to get into bass fishing more. Any help would be greatly appreciated thank you.
I am also a noob and my thought is that I will use mono until I am more confident in my casting and avoiding snags. Thinking it will cost me less while I learn and get more comfortable.
I use both mono and fluorocarbon, depending on the time of year etc. There's a place for each type of line.
This year, I spooled up some Berkley Trilene Flurocarbon line on my cranking rod, which unlike vanish is actually really good fluorocarbon with solid knot strength (I use a 4-6 wrap uni knot with fluoro). But lately, since I've been too tired to rent a canoe or rowboat, I'm debating switching to mono simply because in the shallower waters I fish in frequently, my bait runs off the bottom where with mono, it's by the bottom.
As for mono, I find that I really like the Sufix Siege. It's a bit pricier than Berkley Big Game, but has much less memory and is very abrasion resistant, so it's worth it to me.
Mono or copoly...all i use all ineed never had a issue..big game and yo zuri..grew up using stren original with no probs prob would still buy it if i got more than the same in big game