Lews Speed Spool Ss1Sh 2024
skeletor6 reply :
Hello Everyone!
This is my first post here. I've lurked around for a while and decided to join in.
I am looking to purchase a baitcaster reel for fishing Michigan lakes this summer. After reading many posts and threads on here I have narrowed it down to the Lews Speed Spool SS1SH found http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=110894307798&ssPageName=ADME:B:BOC:US:1123
I can get it for $80 shipped and I was wondering if this was the best that I could do for my money? I missed out on the $30 H20 Mettle deal that the Academy was having so I am looking for a reel under $100. Does anybody have experience with this particular model and how does it compare with the other models that are talked about highly here such as the tournament pro and others.
I have never fished with a quality reel before due to money constraints so I really do not know what to look for or how to even decipher different qualities so I was looking from some advice from you guys.
Thank you!
Capt.Bob reply :
for about 30 bucks more you get the TS1SH, which has a dual cast control, and a larger better drag. The SS has magnetic cast control only and is no where as effective as Centrifugal cast control which the TS has along with magnetic. I would spend a little more and get the TS1SH it is a much better reel. Both are great but 30 or 40 bucks gets you all the bells and whistles of the TP minus one bearing which I cant tell the difference in the two!
shaun_reid reply :
If you are only looking for a reel under $100 then that is the best purchase you can make for $80. I just got the same one except in a 6.4.1. ratio and I like it alot, but I think my next buy is going to be the tournament speed spool.
skeletor6 reply :
Thank you guys for the responses. What advantages does the centrifugal cast control add? does that help any with casting distance, backlash, and certain casting techniques?
Also, what other bells and whistles does the TS have over the SS. I'm all for spending the extra money since I will not be buying another reel in the near future.
Thank you guys for the help and I've enjoyed reading the thread where you posted about your lews fry.
Capt.Bob reply :
Tournament has a 14LBS. Max Carbon drag, with a metal click adjustment star, the SS is 10LBS. Max with plastic non click star, The Tournament has a bowed aluminum handle that hugs the reel better, and the centrifugal brake is much more useable to control casting over runs than a magnetic brake. Ant the TS has a titanium coated line guide. The drag and brake system alone is worth 40 or 50 bucks to me. either one is a great real for the price the TP and the Tournament are the best bangs for the buck, but whichever you get you will have a reel to rely on for years!
MarkM reply :
Centrifugal cast control minimizes backlash more than magnetic because it keeps the spool from speeding up too much at the beginning of the cast. Magnetic cast control helps control the spool at the end of the cast. With the combination of both, the TP provides not only better cast control, but allows the user more options/selections for controlling or "customizing" the cast based on proficiency, lure weights, and wind conditions.
The dual cast control is the biggest advantage of the TS over the SS. But, the TS also has one additional bearing making for a smoother reel and a drag upgrade from 10 to 14lbs.
If these features are not important to you, then you may like the SS. The TS is well worth the additional money for the addition of the centrifugal cast control alone; the other additional features make it even a better value.
skeletor6 reply :
On 6/21/2012 at 9:21 AM, Capt.Bob said:Tournament has a 14LBS. Max Carbon drag, with a metal click adjustment star, the SS is 10LBS. Max with plastic non click star, The Tournament has a bowed aluminum handle that hugs the reel better, and the centrifugal brake is much more useable to control casting over runs than a magnetic brake. Ant the TS has a titanium coated line guide. The drag and brake system alone is worth 40 or 50 bucks to me. either one is a great real for the price the TP and the Tournament are the best bangs for the buck, but whichever you get you will have a reel to rely on for years!
Wow, thank you Capt Bob that was a great writeup. Bang for the buck is exactly what drove me to pursue Lews reels in the fist place. So it sounds as though the TS is the right choice for my situation. Everything you mentioned seems well worthy of spending an extra $40.
What gear ratio is the most versatile? My friend told me to always go with the highest, but I fish with everything from plastics to jigs to spinnerbaits and crankbaits.
Capt.Bob reply :
Speed is a decision for the individual, I have 6.4:1 and 7.1:1 If I only had one it would be the 6.4:1 a good all around speed for everything. As far as bearings there is no difference between th SS and the TS both have 9+1, the Team and Tournament Pro both have 10+1. I have all of them and can feel no difference between the 10 bearings or the reels with 11. But the TS and SS have the same bearing count.
shaun_reid reply :
6.4.1 is for sure the most versatile
JaxBasser reply :
6.4 is the most versatile. 7.1 is good for fishing plastics and jigs because it lets you take up slack in your line quicker and it's nice to have for those fish that run right at you. If you're going to use it for plastics, spinners, and cranks I'd go with the 6.4.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Lews-Speed-Spool-Tournament-Baitcaster-Fishing-Reel-Lews-TS1H-6-4-1-/360466626602?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item53ed7c382a#ht_861wt_905
Can't beat that deal.
skeletor6 reply :
On 6/21/2012 at 10:19 AM, Capt.Bob said:Speed is a decision for the individual, I have 6.4:1 and 7.1:1 If I only had one it would be the 6.4:1 a good all around speed for everything. As far as bearings there is no difference between th SS and the TS both have 9+1, the Team and Tournament Pro both have 10+1. I have all of them and can feel no difference between the 10 bearings or the reels with 11. But the TS and SS have the same bearing count.
On 6/21/2012 at 11:19 AM, shaun_reid2005 said:6.4.1 is for sure the most versatile
On 6/21/2012 at 12:48 PM, JaxBasser said:6.4 is the most versatile. 7.1 is good for fishing plastics and jigs because it lets you take up slack in your line quicker and it's nice to have for those fish that run right at you. If you're going to use it for plastics, spinners, and cranks I'd go with the 6.4.
http://www.ebay.com/...2a#ht_861wt_905
Can't beat that deal.
Thank you guys for the insight. Since I will be using a variety of different lures, I will go with the 6.4
I appreciate the help and the time spent explaining concepts. Thank you
skeletor6 reply :
Just got my Tournament speed spool in today I haven't had a chance to use it but my initial impression is great. It looks really crisp and everything about it is so smooth.
Ill be fishing all week using it paired with a Shakespeare 6'6 MH rod. And I'll be using 12lb Yo zuri hybrid line. I'll throw everything from Senkos to frogs to crankbaits etc.
Are there any tips for initial settings that people have had success with?
shaun_reid reply :
I've had the most success with two breaks engaged and two that aren't on my lews TP, and have my magnets around 3 or 4, then adjust your tension knob from there based off of what your throwing. But of course everyone is different
*Hootie reply :
On 7/1/2012 at 4:25 PM, shaun_reid said:I've had the most success with two breaks engaged and two that aren't on my lews TP, and have my magnets around 3 or 4, then adjust your tension knob from there based off of what your throwing. But of course everyone is different
Exactly how I keep mine set, and have no problems. I have 6 TSS and love em. 3, 6.4s, and 3, 7.1s.
Hootie
skeletor6 reply :
Thank you guys I'll set mine the same way. What parameters should I follow when setting the tension knob?
shaun_reid reply :
Set it to where your lure drops on it own but not real fast. Tighten it up all the way then go click by click from there
Bassfisherman94 reply :
Do it!! I've bought two!!!
new2BC4bass reply :
You didn't say so, but I am assuming this is your first baitcasting reel. If so, please don't say you are going to use it for the first time when you go fishing. If you have been lurking, then you know using a baitcasting reel takes some practice. I wouldn't want you giving up on them the first time out fishing with one because you were spending too much time removing backlashes.
skeletor6 reply :
On 7/2/2012 at 11:12 AM, new2BC4bass said:You didn't say so, but I am assuming this is your first baitcasting reel. If so, please don't say you are going to use it for the first time when you go fishing. If you have been lurking, then you know using a baitcasting reel takes some practice. I wouldn't want you giving up on them the first time out fishing with one because you were spending too much time removing backlashes.
I've been using a baitcaster for close to ten years. I've only owned one which is a quantum 400cx and have used it throughout that time.
I casted the TS1H with a light frog using the recommended settings and was really impressed it flings it a really long ways. I had to tighten the tension knob a little more where the lure wasn't dropping to prevent backlash, but that could be because of my casting technique. Is there any common fundamentals that I should follow? I've just self taught myself how to use them.
When casting the tournament speed spool it is effortless and is so smooth it barely makes a sound I love it. All the adjustments on the drag, tension knob, magnets, and centrifugal springs click and let you know that you've adjusted them. Everything about the reel is smooth and solid. It is also super light and it fits my hand perfectly. I don't know if I want to use my quantum anymore. Thanks guys!
jwhowells reply :
I just bought a TS1SH and I can't wait to try it out.
shaun_reid reply :
Instead of turning your tension off I would just turn your magnets to like 6 or 7
skeletor6 reply :
On 7/3/2012 at 7:27 AM, shaun_reid said:Instead of turning your tension off I would just turn your magnets to like 6 or 7
Thank you I'll try that out. I fished with it all week and it was amazing to use. I'm already wanting to get another one.
*Hootie reply :
Lews reels are the best, but dont tell LMG, you will just get him all fired up. Lol
Hootie
new2BC4bass reply :
On 7/3/2012 at 12:29 AM, skeletor6 said:I've been using a baitcaster for close to ten years.
Then you are no doubt a better caster than I am. I've been using one for about 3-1/2 years. Right now I have over 20 baitcasting reels. Way more than I need for the amount of time I get to fish, but I have become something of a reel fanatic. 
On 7/3/2012 at 12:29 AM, skeletor6 said:I had to tighten the tension knob a little more where the lure wasn't dropping to prevent backlash, but that could be because of my casting technique. Is there any common fundamentals that I should follow? I've just self taught myself how to use them.
I also used the tension knob the 1st year to avoid backlashes. I later found out that over-tightening the spool tension could damage my Daiwa reels. Plus it really hurt casting distance. The next year I went with just enough spool tension to remove side-to-side play. Basically had to learn to cast all over again. It was worth it tho, as I now can cast under-hand as far as I could side-arm before.
I learned by myself and from reading this site. That first year I usually started my cast from the rear position to avoid backlashes even though I knew you were suppose to load the rod. I'd have to say lowering spool tension, loading the rod and being s-m-o-o-t-h on the reversal improved my casting even more than gaining some thumb control experience. No doubt you have been doing this for years. It would take someone with a lot more experience than I have to offer advice.
skeletor6 reply :
On 7/8/2012 at 10:36 PM, new2BC4bass said:Then you are no doubt a better caster than I am. I've been using one for about 3-1/2 years. Right now I have over 20 baitcasting reels. Way more than I need for the amount of time I get to fish, but I have become something of a reel fanatic.
I also used the tension knob the 1st year to avoid backlashes. I later found out that over-tightening the spool tension could damage my Daiwa reels. Plus it really hurt casting distance. The next year I went with just enough spool tension to remove side-to-side play. Basically had to learn to cast all over again. It was worth it tho, as I now can cast under-hand as far as I could side-arm before.
I learned by myself and from reading this site. That first year I usually started my cast from the rear position to avoid backlashes even though I knew you were suppose to load the rod. I'd have to say lowering spool tension, loading the rod and being s-m-o-o-t-h on the reversal improved my casting even more than gaining some thumb control experience. No doubt you have been doing this for years. It would take someone with a lot more experience than I have to offer advice.
With 20baitcasters you got me beat! Lol
Okay I won't over tighten the tension knob. I found Using 3 centrifugal brakes instead of two also helps. I now keep the tension knob to where the lure or plastic is falling slowly. Also, note that the issues I mentioned were just on weightless Senkos.
Now I'll just either use more of the centrifugal rakes or increase my magnets. Either way does the trick. Honestly I'm glad you guys talked me into the tournament speed spool. The MSB system and drag are definitely necessary now that I use them.
My buddies all bought newcbaitcasters and were bragging how they have 6 ball bearings and put braided line on. I check them out and they are plastic and without centrifugal brakes and light drags. Sure, they get the job done but I was throwing a weightless Senko about 20 feet further than their red eye shads and they still won't admit mine superior.not to mention theirs make a huge winding noise when casted and my lews is dead quiet when reeling and casting.
Nonetheless, I've been using yo-zuri hybrid 12# line and I am considering trying a 100% fluoro such a seaguar abrazx or tatsu. Would the upgrade be worth it over yo-zuri? The rod I'm using is a $17 Walmart 6'6 medium heavy Shakespeare.
Thanks for everyones help!
I've been using yo
new2BC4bass reply :
I've never used Yo-Zuri. Lots of people on here like it. I would guess that it isn't far behind a full fluorcarbon line when it comes to sensitivity or they would be using something else.
The rod also has a lot to do with sensitivity. I have zero experience with Shakespeare rods (at least in the last 30+ years) so no idea how sensitive your rod may be, but I'm going to take another guess and say if you are looking for the best sensitivity you can get, then a rod upgrade is called for. There is one guy here who says sensitivity is highly over-rated and his Ugly Sticks are as sensitive as any other rod. You won't find many that will agree with that statement.
I have a 6' Berkley Lightning rod that I bought for my granson on closeout at Walmart for $17. The Lightning is often suggested for those who can't afford to spend much. In recent years manufacturers have been making some darn good rods for less than $100.
I couldn't believe the prices when I got back into fishing a few years ago. The first reel I bought (on closeout) was more than any of my previous combos. I mean, who ever heard of spending over $100 on a rod or reel? Heck, I had never spent that much for any rod/reel combo much less for just one item. Didn't know there was any better line than Trilene XL. The Internet has been my downfall.
skeletor6 reply :
On 7/10/2012 at 7:37 PM, new2BC4bass said:I've never used Yo-Zuri. Lots of people on here like it. I would guess that it isn't far behind a full fluorcarbon line when it comes to sensitivity or they would be using something else.
The rod also has a lot to do with sensitivity. I have zero experience with Shakespeare rods (at least in the last 30+ years) so no idea how sensitive your rod may be, but I'm going to take another guess and say if you are looking for the best sensitivity you can get, then a rod upgrade is called for. There is one guy here who says sensitivity is highly over-rated and his Ugly Sticks are as sensitive as any other rod. You won't find many that will agree with that statement.
I have a 6' Berkley Lightning rod that I bought for my granson on closeout at Walmart for $17. The Lightning is often suggested for those who can't afford to spend much. In recent years manufacturers have been making some darn good rods for less than $100.
I couldn't believe the prices when I got back into fishing a few years ago. The first reel I bought (on closeout) was more than any of my previous combos. I mean, who ever heard of spending over $100 on a rod or reel?
Heck, I had never spent that much for any rod/reel combo much less for just one item. Didn't know there was any better line than Trilene XL. The Internet has been my downfall.
You make some really good points. I'd probably be better upgrading my rod before buying some seaguar tatsu. I understand what you mean about how expensive this gear could get. My goal is to get as many baitcaster rods and reels as I can since having a few would help me make quick switches of lures.
I figured it better to spend more on my reels and then buy quality rods when I can learn to appreciate them.
hatrix reply :
I see some people talking about adjusting the tension knob and mag brakes for setting up your reel. I have a few lews and keep them all set the same 2 opposing brakes on and mag set at 1 or 0. I might go as high as 4 or 5 if it's blowing super hard. As for the tension knob I would keep it set to free spool but tight enough so there is no side to side play. You can turn the tension up I guess to learn but I think it will only make it more difficult on you when you decide to turn it off. If you tighten it up so it makes resistance when you crank that kind of defeats the purpose of a smooth reel IMO. As for backlashes I can't remember the last time I had a real one. Two days ago I showed a buddy how to use one of my rods and by the end of the day he was whip casting spinner baits with ease. Good luck and tight lines.
skeletor6 reply :
On 7/12/2012 at 10:40 AM, hatrix said:I see some people talking about adjusting the tension knob and mag brakes for setting up your reel. I have a few lews and keep them all set the same 2 opposing brakes on and mag set at 1 or 0. I might go as high as 4 or 5 if it's blowing super hard. As for the tension knob I would keep it set to free spool but tight enough so there is no side to side play. You can turn the tension up I guess to learn but I think it will only make it more difficult on you when you decide to turn it off. If you tighten it up so it makes resistance when you crank that kind of defeats the purpose of a smooth reel IMO. As for backlashes I can't remember the last time I had a real one. Two days ago I showed a buddy how to use one of my rods and by the end of the day he was whip casting spinner baits with ease. Good luck and tight lines.
Everywhere I've read and in the manual it states to set the tension knob so the lure falls slowly and when it hits the ground the spool can make one complete revolution. Using 3 centrifugal brakes for my weightless plastics helps me stay consistent I guess it's personal preference.
new2BC4bass reply :
On 7/12/2012 at 10:40 AM, hatrix said:I see some people talking about adjusting the tension knob and mag brakes for setting up your reel. I have a few lews and keep them all set the same 2 opposing brakes on and mag set at 1 or 0. I might go as high as 4 or 5 if it's blowing super hard. As for the tension knob I would keep it set to free spool but tight enough so there is no side to side play. You can turn the tension up I guess to learn but I think it will only make it more difficult on you when you decide to turn it off. If you tighten it up so it makes resistance when you crank that kind of defeats the purpose of a smooth reel IMO. As for backlashes I can't remember the last time I had a real one. Two days ago I showed a buddy how to use one of my rods and by the end of the day he was whip casting spinner baits with ease. Good luck and tight lines.
You keep your spool tension set up like I do on all my reels. I bought a Tournament Pro from a young man on this site. Should have already had it, but due to one digit being off on the zip code, the reel got shipped to MA instead of NJ the first time. Apparently it is too hard to look at the address and see something isn't right. MA is not NJ. LOL. This morning the reel was delivered to the wrong address. Hoping to pick it up tomorrow, and get some fishing in this weekend with it. I'll try your settings to start with. This will be my first dual-control reel. I have to run my magnetic brakes up around 6-7 on my Diawas and pre '10 STX with spool tension set just enough to remove side-to-side play. Have to blame it on not getting out enough to obtain a PHD thumb. 
Really pumped up about using the Lews after all I've been reading about how great they are. I suppose next year it will be a different reel, and we will start hearing about an area or two where the Lews is coming up short. Wouldn't be the first time such a thing has happened.
hatrix reply :
On 7/13/2012 at 8:17 AM, skeletor6 said:Everywhere I've read and in the manual it states to set the tension knob so the lure falls slowly and when it hits the ground the spool can make one complete revolution. Using 3 centrifugal brakes for my weightless plastics helps me stay consistent I guess it's personal preference.
Pretty much any guide or How-To for setting up a bait caster will say to set the tension so the bait slowly falls and only does 1 rotation when it hits the ground. That's perfectly fine and a great place to start when learning to first use a casting reel. But for me personally I NEVER add any tension to the spool. When first starting I did and when I backed it off I basically had to learn it all over again. It will reduce casting distance and take more effort to cast a bait. If any thing I would turn all 4 pins on and maybe crank up the mags to max. Then when you get a good feel for it back off your brakes and you should have no problem. Thinking about it most of the time I never really thumb the spool except to stop it before it hits the water. You kinda get a sense for when it's a bad cast and you need to control the spool with you thumb. Generally I never have to unless it's human error or the wind blows all of a sudden or maybe your bait helicopters. The reel should do pretty much all the work for you.
skeletor6 reply :
On 7/13/2012 at 11:44 AM, hatrix said:Pretty much any guide or How-To for setting up a bait caster will say to set the tension so the bait slowly falls and only does 1 rotation when it hits the ground. That's perfectly fine and a great place to start when learning to first use a casting reel. But for me personally I NEVER add any tension to the spool. When first starting I did and when I backed it off I basically had to learn it all over again. It will reduce casting distance and take more effort to cast a bait. If any thing I would turn all 4 pins on and maybe crank up the mags to max. Then when you get a good feel for it back off your brakes and you should have no problem. Thinking about it most of the time I never really thumb the spool except to stop it before it hits the water. You kinda get a sense for when it's a bad cast and you need to control the spool with you thumb. Generally I never have to unless it's human error or the wind blows all of a sudden or maybe your bait helicopters. The reel should do pretty much all the work for you.
I'm looking to Improve my talents with baitcasting. Is it general consensus to loosen up the tension knob to make it spin freely and learn to throw from there? Earlier recommendations from two others in this same thread recommended 2 on 2 off centrifugal brakes and a magnet setting around 4 while setting the tension knob where the bait falls slowly.
By all means I'm looking to improve. Would loosening up the tension knob nearly free be the way the "most talented baitcasters" practice?
It's ridiculously easy to set the lews up where it's impossible to cast without backlash and still have incredible casting distance for any who want to claim that lews has issues with that. Watching Kevin van dam cast, it appears as though his motion is quicker and more wrist whip than mine. (looking aT spinnerbait and lipless crank lessons). Would a pro such as himself leave the spool free like you guys mention?
On a side note I have an old quantum with the spool tension shim and knob broke. So essentially it has no tension on the spool. It seems near impossible to cast beyond 15 yards without backlash. But then again there's no centrifugal braking system to slow down the spool early. I also use a full spool of line. The same quantum I could easily cast when it had maybe 40 yards left.
shaun_reid reply :
I am one of the ones that said that earlier in the thread. But everyone is different, and that is what works fine for me. You just need to play around with everything until you find what works best for you. What works for someone else may not work very well for you.
skeletor6 reply :
On 7/14/2012 at 3:04 PM, shaun_reid said:I am one of the ones that said that earlier in the thread. But everyone is different, and that is what works fine for me. You just need to play around with everything until you find what works best for you. What works for someone else may not work very well for you.
Yeah your settings have been working best for me. Thankyou! I was unaware that anyone ever kept their spool free. I can see the advantage when pitching but not for long whipping casts which I usually end up making.
Capt.Bob reply :
On 7/14/2012 at 2:01 PM, skeletor6 said:I'm looking to Improve my talents with baitcasting. Is it general consensus to loosen up the tension knob to make it spin freely and learn to throw from there? Earlier recommendations from two others in this same thread recommended 2 on 2 off centrifugal brakes and a magnet setting around 4 while setting the tension knob where the bait falls slowly.
By all means I'm looking to improve. Would loosening up the tension knob nearly free be the way the "most talented baitcasters" practice?
The 2 on 2 off and use the tension is great for guys new to bait casting, or any new reel. But by all means the more you learn to control your casting mechanics, the looser you will be able to run the reel, as someone said, the only time tension being to loose will cause casting efficiency is if the spool has side play. But I prefer 1 brake no spool tension and no mag, but when I started using bait cast equipment, I would quit trying with the respools that would have caused. I relied on spool tension to alow me to learn the mechanics in them days, there was no brakes, the spool tension was the brake, or your thumb.
As for KVD,-------I'm pretty sure he's runnin on FFFFRRRRRREEEEEE spool!
skeletor6 reply :
On 7/15/2012 at 4:03 AM, Capt.Bob said:The 2 on 2 off and use the tension is great for guys new to bait casting, or any new reel. But by all means the more you learn to control your casting mechanics, the looser you will be able to run the reel, as someone said, the only time tension being to loose will cause casting efficiency is if the spool has side play. But I prefer 1 brake no spool tension and no mag, but when I started using bait cast equipment, I would quit trying with the respools that would have caused. I relied on spool tension to alow me to learn the mechanics in them days, there was no brakes, the spool tension was the brake, or your thumb.
As for KVD,-------I'm pretty sure he's runnin on FFFFRRRRRREEEEEE spool!
Thank you very much capt bob! You've helped me so much throughout this whole process. I do not have the opportunity to fish with advanced anglers like you and many others on the forum. I am going to try to start rocking free spool so I can improve my technique.
My biggest problem is when on long crankbaits casts (free spool) the spool spins too fast and the line unravels. Should I try to make an overall longer and slower motion with a little wrist snap at the end. I've watched the video posted recently here about pitching and flipping. But what do you guys focus on when making long casts with heavier and lighter baits(thumb pressure on the spool/ wrist action/ general casting motion)I am assuming there is more potential to cast further with the spool left free. That alone is incredible because I'm already out casting everyone I fish with using this new Lews.
On another thought, I thought my old 2000 model quantum with a broken tension shim and knob was doomed since it left the spool free. Now it sounds like I can use it again!
Thanks to everyone. I'm glad to be a part of this community. Everyone has gone above and beyond to help me I am very grateful.
hatrix reply :
I guess everyone is different but I would assume most people keep there reel free spool once they get comfortable with there gear. Don't worry to much about whipping it as hard as you can right from the start and try using somewhat heavy aerodynamic baits that can be worked fast so you can fire off as many casts as possible to maximize your time on the water casting. You can still make a pretty long cast by putting minimal effort in your cast as opposed to trying to really fire it out there. Also I don't know if any one mentioned but the line you use also makes a difference and some line might be more prone to backlash then others. Getting some line conditioner can really help keep the line from springing off the spool once the smallest backlash starts and can help improve distance by making it a bit more supple and removing memory (temporally).
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