Help Me With My Baitcaster! 2025

SnazzySenko reply :

So I bought a bait casting combo from BPS. It's a Bill Dance rod with a Quantum reel. It was $70 and I put Spider Wire mono on it. I forgot the names of them, but I adjusted the thing with numbers on and the other thing under the drag so the bait fell after clicking the button and was getting no backlash (I sound like such a noob, help) I was practicing casting and pitching with just a lead weight on the end. I was getting the hang of it and was no longer getting birds nest after only a day of practice with it. But then I went fishing with it and put on a rapala xrap crankbait and just kept getting backlashes. Any tips to help me cast with a really light lure? And what each thing does on the reel. I've seen videos on and the videos on the forum but I just don't really get what they do. I tried adjusting them for the crank but it wouldnt work.

Also once I get comfortable with bait casting. I will be buying a reel in the $150 range. What do you reccomend?

MCS reply :

Talk to Lou about the casting he is better at explaining, he helped me getting started. I think you are casting to hard to get distance. you need to just throw nice easy motion. start with more brake, short distances, bake off the brake and add more thumb pressure until you get the hang. Light lures just ain't gonna go as fat as heavy plus a little better reel would help too......a good reel in the 150 got a few choices, lews, daiwa, quantum, Abu Garcia. I personally like my quantum energies, i also have a lower end daiwa and like it as well. But I would say get a lews. Hear a ton of good things about them in that price range you would be set.

SnazzySenko reply :

On 3/3/2014 at 11:35 AM, MCS said:
Talk to Lou about the casting he is better at explaining, he helped me getting started. I think you are casting to hard to get distance. you need to just throw nice easy motion. start with more brake, short distances, bake off the brake and add more thumb pressure until you get the hang. Light lures just ain't gonna go as fat as heavy plus a little better reel would help too......a good reel in the 150 got a few choices, lews, daiwa, quantum, Abu Garcia. I personally like my quantum energies, i also have a lower end daiwa and like it as well. But I would say get a lews. Hear a ton of good things about them in that price range you would be set.

Thanks. I was thinking the same about getting a Lews Speed Spool. I hear so many good reviews on them. And yes I think I was casting hard for distance guess I'll go out tomorrow and keep practicing at it.

new2BC4bass reply :

First of all how heavy was the crankbait? Lightweight lures are tough to throw on a baitcast reel for several reasons. First reason being it takes some skill, and as a beginner I sure wouldn't be going below 3/8 oz. for a few days. Second...depending on what you consider light...a reel designed for light lures is best and in many cases expensive. Third a $70 combo isn't likely to contain a nice reel. Not all low cost baitcast reels are bad. The H2O reels get high marks.

However, at a guess I would say most low cost baitcast reels aren't the best ones to learn on. You stand a better chance of getting a good braking system by spending a bit more money. My Daiwa Procaster was $30 on closeout. My Abu Black Max 1600 round reels were $33 used. Both cast very well. Buying low cost reels can be a crap shoot unless you have done your homework.

Can I assume you have read the stickies at the top? Lots of good information there.

You probably know by now that the knob under the handle is the cast control. This is where you set how fast the lure drops. Even if I knew which reel came with your combo, I wouldn't have any experience with it. Does it have centrifugal, magnetic or dual brakes? If centrifugal or dual brakes, then I would start with at least 4 brakes on. Some cheaper reels only have 4 brakes. This is going to hurt distance, but help with backlashes. Run the magnetic brake 8-10 to start. Again, it will hurt distance a little.

Absolutely do not try to throw hard. The rod needs to load properly. Swinging straight back and then reversing to straight forward is not the best way to learn IMO. It requires you to be quite smooth or...........backlash! I learned by starting with the rod in the rear position to avoid backlashing. Not good for any kind of distance. Use a sidearm roll cast. This will keep the tip loaded throughout the cast. If you watch someone like KVD, you will notice that almost every cast they make will be this type of cast.

Good luck. Don't give up. Find someone experienced that can help you in person rather than Online. Baitcast reels are a ton of fun to fish with.

MCS reply :

On 3/3/2014 at 11:45 AM, SnazzySenko said:
Thanks. I was thinking the same about getting a Lews Speed Spool. I hear so many good reviews on them. And yes I think I was casting hard for distance guess I'll go out tomorrow and keep practicing at it.

Learned pretty quickk Hard cast = backlash.

It is really about getting comfortable thumbing with less break.

Tywithay reply :

Casting light lures is more about the rod than the reel. Lighter line will also help.

When you step up to the $150 reels, I'd give a good look at the Tatula; or wait until a 15% off sale and get a new Curado. I think you'd find both are much more manageable to cast and they'll last you a long time.

SnazzySenko reply :

On 3/3/2014 at 11:50 AM, new2BC4bass said:

First of all how heavy was the crankbait? Lightweight lures are tough to throw on a baitcast reel for several reasons. First reason being it takes some skill, and as a beginner I sure wouldn't be going below 3/8 oz. for a few days. Second...depending on what you consider light...a reel designed for light lures is best and in many cases expensive. Third a $70 combo isn't likely to contain a nice reel. Not all low cost baitcast reels are bad. The H2O reels get high marks.

However, at a guess I would say most low cost baitcast reels aren't the best ones to learn on. You stand a better chance of getting a good braking system by spending a bit more money. My Daiwa Procaster was $30 on closeout. My Abu Black Max 1600 round reels were $33 used. Both cast very well. Buying low cost reels can be a crap shoot unless you have done your homework.

Can I assume you have read the stickies at the top? Lots of good information there.

You probably know by now that the knob under the handle is the cast control. This is where you set how fast the lure drops. Even if I knew which reel came with your combo, I wouldn't have any experience with it. Does it have centrifugal, magnetic or dual brakes? If centrifugal or dual brakes, then I would start with at least 4 brakes on. Some cheaper reels only have 4 brakes. This is going to hurt distance, but help with backlashes. Run the magnetic brake 8-10 to start. Again, it will hurt distance a little.

Absolutely do not try to throw hard. The rod needs to load properly. Swinging straight back and then reversing to straight forward is not the best way to learn IMO. It requires you to be quite smooth or...........backlash! I learned by starting with the rod in the rear position to avoid backlashing. Not good for any kind of distance. Use a sidearm roll cast. This will keep the tip loaded throughout the cast. If you watch someone like KVD, you will notice that almost every cast they make will be this type of cast.

Good luck. Don't give up. Find someone experienced that can help you in person rather than Online. Baitcast reels are a ton of fun to fish with.

Wow. This is great. Thanks for taking the time to write this. And yes I did see the stickied posts. The lure I was using is 3/8 ounces. I'll be going out tomorrow and see what settings work best for the lure. I'll be buying a new higher end reel in about a month or so and see if that helps. Thanks again!

bootytrain reply :

I think the problem is you went from a compact and dense lead weight to something that is far less aerodynamic and dense. Example, I can throw a 3/8 oz casting plug very far with only 1 brake on with my Curado 50 with no thumbing and not backlash. But if I did that with a 3/8 oz crank bait or spinnerbait I backlash like crazy, so I have to add another brake. Try to go up to the next level on your brakes.

roadwarrior reply :

I fish X-Raps on spinning tackle. It is definitely NOT the right lure to use while

you are still learning how to cast on a baitcasting rig.

WIGuide reply :

Lots of good info above. I also want to add that your casting motion should not be the same as when you use a spinning rod. You do not want to whip it, but rather use a smooth casting motion. Also for your next reel purchase, you might want to check out the BPS Johnny Morris Bass Caster. It's a little heavier than a lot of the high end reels, but it's well built. I really think the dual breaking system will help you with your quest to learn to throw a baitcaster.

new2BC4bass reply :

I meant to mention the same thing bootytrain and roadwarrior did, and that is the lure you are casting isn't very aerodynamic and won't cast nearly as well as a lead weight.

I also agree that the rod is very important for throwing light weights. However, I disagree that the reel isn't important.....always depending on what you call light weight. A 1/4 oz. weight on the right rod shouldn't be much of a problem for most of today's better reels. Reels with heavier spools won't handle it as well as a reel with a lighter spool. However, once you go below 1/4 oz. I feel the right reel is also important. At least it is for me. But then I am not as good with a baitcast reel as most of these guys. At my age I probably never will be.

Xyndifor reply :

I started out casting years ago with a cheap Cabela's Black Label II reel and it wasn't great for a beginner. I got so frustrated because every 10 casts it backlashed on me. You need to have a good braking system. When I got back into baitcasting 3 years ago I bought a Bass Pro Qualifier and had no problems casting with that reel. The centrifugal braking system made a huge difference and made it a lot easier for me to learn how to use it. It comes from bass pro with 4 of the breaks on on the spool but as you get better at using it you can turn breaks off. I only use one of the six breaks now. I'd say for a beginner that may be one of the best ones to start with and it's on sale in the store for 80 bucks right now. It'll be on sale online probably middle of March. I own three pro qualifiers now and absolutely love them. I just ordered a Abu Garcia Revo S for my flipping rod because I wanted to try something different this time. The next reel I'll buy will probably be a Lews Tournament Speed Spool for squarebill fishing because I want to know what all the hype is about. You can teach yourself how to throw a lure on a baitcaster but as said earlier tart in the 3/8 oz range with a rod that isn't overly stiff so you can more accurately throw your casts where you want them. A 3/4 arm cast is good. Keep your arm always at your side like you're trying to hold something in your armpit and not let it fall and just toss the lure out. Distance will come in time as you learn how to properly thumb the spool during your cast and are able to turn more breaks off. Set your spool tension knob so the lure falls about half the speed of normal gravity. You can set it tighter at first so the lure barely falls at all if you'd like too. Hope this is helpful.

NathanW reply :

On 3/3/2014 at 9:32 PM, roadwarrior said:

I fish X-Raps on spinning tackle. It is definitely NOT the right lure to use while

you are still learning how to cast on a baitcasting rig.

This is the truth. Also helps to have a rod that's a little bit more flexible.

Super excited that you are learning. Once you figure it out it will be worth it.

Texas Hawg Hunter reply :

I just got turned on to baitcasting a few weeks ago and love it. Here's a tip: use heavier line at first (20 lb and up) which will help with backlashes.

The key to using a baitcaster is your thumb. Feather your thumb when the lure slows down on the cast and definitely when it hits the water. As long as you do that you will have no problems.

Try taking all the breaks and tension off too, that will help if you are having trouble with light lures. Personally, I don't see why they even have breaks and tension. As long as you use your thumb correctly you are good.

BassThumbAddict reply :

My advice is to adjust your reel every time you change a bait.

Search bassresource on YouTube they have a great video how to set up a baitcaster.

new2BC4bass reply :

On 3/17/2014 at 6:46 AM, Todd Ward said:

I just got turned on to baitcasting a few weeks ago and love it. Here's a tip: use heavier line at first (20 lb and up) which will help with backlashes.

The key to using a baitcaster is your thumb. Feather your thumb when the lure slows down on the cast and definitely when it hits the water. As long as you do that you will have no problems.

Try taking all the breaks and tension off too, that will help if you are having trouble with light lures. Personally, I don't see why they even have breaks and tension. As long as you use your thumb correctly you are good.

Old timers had to learn without brakes as there weren't any. Obviously you aren't average if you can handle a baitcaster in a few weeks with thumb only and with no spool tension and no brakes. Personally my guess is that this is rare and you do beginners an injustice by telling them to turn off brakes and spool tension. I've been at it 5 years now and can cast pretty good with either hand. I sometimes wind up with a few loose coils, but seldom backlash. I normally run only enough spool tension to remove side-to-side play, but brakes are a must. My thumb still needs training.

I agree that light lures should be used with less spool tension and less braking. Otherwise you have to throw too hard to get any distance. Throwing hard requires a bit more thumb skill than most beginners have.

I wish a backlash only occurred at the end of a cast. You must have a very smooth casting stroke. It is easy to backlash a reel on the rod's reversal if the brakes are set too light and you aren't smooth. It is also why I use a roll cast most of the time, but even then if you are jerky you can backlash before the lure gets more than a few feet from the rod tip.

Texas Hawg Hunter reply :

New2BC4bass, what do you mean by "the rod's reversal"? I guess I just have a smooth cast, I don't know. I played several years of baseball and also trained in japanese sword work for several years so maybe that helped, I don't know. I do get a couple backlashes when I go out but nothing major. When I do, it is because my timing was off thumbing the spool as the lure slowed or entered the water.

new2BC4bass reply :

On 3/17/2014 at 8:34 AM, Todd Ward said:
New2BC4bass, what do you mean by "the rod's reversal"? I guess I just have a smooth cast, I don't know. I played several years of baseball and also trained in japanese sword work for several years so maybe that helped, I don't know. I do get a couple backlashes when I go out but nothing major. When I do, it is because my timing was off thumbing the spool as the lure slowed or entered the water.

Don't know about you, but the first rod movement I make on a cast is to the rear. When I first learned I started with the rod in the rear position to make it easier to cast without a backlash. However, this hurts casting distance. Swinging to the rear and then reversing the rod's direction loads the tip much better resulting in longer casts with less effort. This is "the rod's reversal" I was speaking of.

Baseball requires a certain amount of coordination...both hand and eye. I imagine sword work requires even more control of your body. I studied Goju Ryu Karate for awhile. I enjoyed it. Not the fighting, but the katas. Also I needed the physical exercise we got. Lots and lots of push-ups and sit-ups.

Texas Hawg Hunter reply :

That's what I thought you were talking about. Here are the steps I take when casting:

1) Press the spool release button on the reel and hold the spool with my thumb.

2) Start the cast with the "reverse" motion you mentioned, with my thumb still on the spool.

3) As the rod moves forward, I release my thumb from the spool at a certain point which frees the lure to fly.

4) As the lure slows in the air, I apply light pressure with my thumb and the lure enters the water.

Not sure if steps 1-3 are universal as I'm not sure how I could possibly get a backlash on the reversal motion. I'm not trying to discredit you or anything, I'm sure what you are saying is valid.

SnazzySenko reply :

Thanks guys for all your input. After about 2 weeks of constant use and practice I've gotten a lot better with it. I can cast my 1/4 oz rapala now with no problems and am lowering my brakes a lot. The only time I have backlashes the last two times I went fishing were when my rod collided with my buddy's and when I hit a tree because of the wind. Lol. Thanks again!

new2BC4bass reply :

On 3/17/2014 at 8:52 AM, Todd Ward said:

That's what I thought you were talking about. Here are the steps I take when casting:

1) Press the spool release button on the reel and hold the spool with my thumb.

2) Start the cast with the "reverse" motion you mentioned, with my thumb still on the spool.

3) As the rod moves forward, I release my thumb from the spool at a certain point which frees the lure to fly.

4) As the lure slows in the air, I apply light pressure with my thumb and the lure enters the water.

Not sure if steps 1-3 are universal as I'm not sure how I could possibly get a backlash on the reversal motion. I'm not trying to discredit you or anything, I'm sure what you are saying is valid.

I imagine that is pretty much how we all do it. Ideally the lure is maintaining constant pressure on the spool so when you release it the lure pulls line off at a reasonably steady speed. Now picture jerking the rod on the reversal. The rod tip loses its load as the lure quickly starts forward. You release the spool before the lure can straighten out the line and load the rod again. Then with the spool already released the lure suddenly removes all that slack in the line, and the spool starts up with a mighty jerk. Spool speed will quickly overcome lure speed resulting in a nasty backlash almost instantly.

Texas Hawg Hunter reply :

Ahhhh, I see what you are saying now. Thankfully, I haven't had that happen to me -- yet.

Also, Senko, glad you're getting the hang of it!

TorqueConverter reply :

On 3/17/2014 at 8:52 AM, Todd Ward said:

That's what I thought you were talking about. Here are the steps I take when casting:

1) Press the spool release button on the reel and hold the spool with my thumb.

2) Start the cast with the "reverse" motion you mentioned, with my thumb still on the spool.

3) As the rod moves forward, I release my thumb from the spool at a certain point which frees the lure to fly.

4) As the lure slows in the air, I apply light pressure with my thumb and the lure enters the water.

Not sure if steps 1-3 are universal as I'm not sure how I could possibly get a backlash on the reversal motion. I'm not trying to discredit you or anything, I'm sure what you are saying is valid.

This is how a baitcaster should behave. There is a good chance that the backlashes that occur at the beginning of the cast are the result of the spool accelerating more quickly than the lure. This happens because the spool tension is too light, the reel has no centrifugal braking or the centrifugal brakes are off.

There is no need to thumb the spool of your reel in this day and age other than to slow the bait as it approaches and enters the water.

FlipnLimits reply :

Remember music class? Crescendo. Crescendo, it's a gradual increase in the tempo or sound of music. Apply to casting, it's a gradual pick-up of speed in your cast. This will give you a smooth cast with distance. I also always point the rod tip at the end of a cast to spot I want the bait to go....when casting a distance. This wouldn't work for some styles of casting but in general...

EdRitchie reply :

Try to figure out when it is back lashing. At the start of the cast or after lure hits the water. If it happens before lure hits the water adjust line tension Knob, if it's after lure hits water adjust your brakes. Lighter lure to me go on a spin reel with smaller dia line. Dia. Of the line plays a big roll also . Smaller line tends to bury itself and cause backlashes as well. I recently learned this as I put on some flourocarbon . The dia of the line is to small and keeps digging into it self. I need to get some larger dia line.

Fish Murderer 71 reply :

I'm going to say this about the low priced baitcasters... If its a magnetic brake, check and see if it has all 6 magnets on the caliper. I got a couple cheapies and both only had 5 magnets. I dont know how many times I wanted to throw the combo into the drink but I didnt. If its centrifuge brake make sure that they are opposing each other. Most of my birdnests come from to much snap in the beginning of the cast with no follow through.

Xyndifor reply :

On 3/17/2014 at 8:52 AM, Todd Ward said:

That's what I thought you were talking about. Here are the steps I take when casting:

1) Press the spool release button on the reel and hold the spool with my thumb.

2) Start the cast with the "reverse" motion you mentioned, with my thumb still on the spool.

3) As the rod moves forward, I release my thumb from the spool at a certain point which frees the lure to fly.

4) As the lure slows in the air, I apply light pressure with my thumb and the lure enters the water.

Not sure if steps 1-3 are universal as I'm not sure how I could possibly get a backlash on the reversal motion. I'm not trying to discredit you or anything, I'm sure what you are saying is valid.

What you said is pretty universal. I'm sure some people may do it differently. When I first started baitcasting again 3 years ago I was going back with my rod but I was casting in a more circular motion. The reason most people get backlashes is because they don't have a smooth motion (kind of herky jerky) or they don't have enough brake on (whether it be their thumb or the reel's brakes themselves) and try to throw their bait too hard. I like to set my brakes as light as I can usually just using 1 centrifugal brakeand no magnets and use my thumb lightly on the spool about 2/3rds of the way through my cast to slow the spool down before the lure enters the water. I set my spool tension so when the lure hits the ground my spool won't turn more than 1 revolution so it doesn't birds nest when it free falls to the ground. Obviously with lighter or heavier lures further adjustments may need to be made.

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