I cant deside if a would rather a glass or graphite rod to use for cranking. i know the advantages of both. but what i really would like to know how much a glass rod takes away from casting distance. Assume both are of equal length. Can any one point me in the right direction here?
A glass rod matched with a crank of the proper weight will cast at least as far as any graphite rod.
Hello and Welcome to Bass Resource ~
As for cranking rod preference - it's a personal preference deal; like flavors of ice cream.
Some like Vanilla, some like Chocolate and some like Rocky Road.
I fish Glass, Graphite & even Composite rods for cranking.
I find that each has characteristics that that are a bit different from the others.
I could tell you what I like & why but that may not be what you prefer.
That might only be realized by fishing them and finding out for yourself.
Finally, I do not find that a glass rod reduces casting distance at all.
A-Jay
I don't think a glass rod will take away from your distance. It might be bulkier and heavier, but it should load up appropriately with the correct weight lure.
Like AJay said, it's all preference. I prefer graphite for everything, while some guys prefer glass for cranking. Almost any high end graphite cranking rod these days has a great parabolic bend to it.
I prefer 7 foot med action graphite for the simple reason that my combos perform multiple task . When fishing from a small boat I carry 4 rods and that crankbait rod is often put to use doing something else .
I have never heard anyone say you cannot cast as far on glass. Maybe day two of a cranking tourney due to fatigue...
I fish both glass and graphite for cranking. Glass can and will wear you out if you are not conditioned for it but carry every advantage once the fish is hooked. Glass also provides much better feedback on what the bait is doing. With graphite you sacrifice power for forgiveness but with glass there is no sacrifice in power.
I would base your choice on how much you plan on cranking. Because if you are only going to do it once in a while go with the graphite. If its going to be your way of life go glass and get those muscles in shape.
Dude, if anything you can cast further, or at least just as far with less effort. I use a 7'7" glass composite cranking rod and have no trouble with getting my baits out there. Plus, the advantages afforded by glass with a fish on would mitigate whatever negligible difference in distance that could possibly exist.
On 9/28/2015 at 10:49 PM, scaleface said:I prefer 7 foot med action graphite for the simple reason that my combos perform multiple task . When fishing from a small boat I carry 4 rods and that crankbait rod is often put to use doing something else .
I'm in that boat too (as it were). I've only got 3 or 4 with me at a time, so Every combo is going to have more than one duty.
The length, power and action will determine how the rod casts regardless of the material. There have been advances in glass rod technology too. I wouldn't rule out either based solely on base material.
I started using a glass rod for crankbaits/chatterbaits earlier this year and like them much better than graphite. With the softer tip, if you're using the right size lure, the rod loads and slingshot launches amazingly easy where I can reel in, whip back and cast, reel in, whip back and cast, and repeat nonstop, with very little effort. Highly recommend you try a glass rod, plus they're usually more affordable then graphite rods.
I prefer mod/fast action, medium/heavy power graphite cranking sticks. Glass feels too 'whippy' for me. Graphite is much more crisp and sensitive.
And as far as weight is concerned, many glass rods aren't really any heavier. The 771MRB tatula is about an ounce heavier than its carbon counterpart, but at ~5.5 oz, it's still comparable in weight to many other carbon only rods. From what I can tell, all the glass is in the top half of the rod, while the butt section is carbon only, which saves weight, provides the best action, and makes the rod tip heavy, which is fine for a cranking rod.
As far as versatility, I use it for anything with a treble hook, and a few single hook baits, as well. Chatterbaits, smaller spinnerbaits and swim jigs do well on it provided the hooks are kept sharp
I hate the weight of glass but I love the action! What I like is that glass rods have a gradual power curve, you hook into a big fish and it is pulling and the rod gives and then as you get it close, the fish surges under the boat and the rod still has some give, even under full pressure and it makes it tough for fish to throw a hook. With graphite rods, the action comes from the taper and so you have a moderate action but what you get is a rod that is soft and bends to a specific point and shuts off abruptly. For shallow cranking and even mid depth stuff I like graphite but any deeper than 10' and I'll use glass because I like the fact that I can have the fish under control without the rod being fully bent into the backbone, it is a personal preference as that gradual power band of the glass rod just makes me feel more confident in deep diving cranks.
I sure appreciate everyone sharing all of their experiences. I have came to an conclusion that im going to go with a glass rod "now the wife cant say i dont workout"
In my opinion, glass rods are just more fun to fish with.
On 9/29/2015 at 6:15 AM, Jrob78 said:In my opinion, glass rods are just more fun to fish with.
They definitely put some variety into your day.
Casting distance never figured in my decision to go graphite. It's light and sensitive, and works as well as any glass rod I've tried.
I have only fished 1 glass rod for crankbaits and its been a month or so. I am still out on what i think. The things i can say so far are that it bombs crankbaits, the whippy feel is for me not for target casting SB cranks but in open water its all good, and when you hook up you should boat it lol....keeps em pinned crazy good. At this point my graphite rods do the some of the same techniques and are much more versatile, but it is nice to have a crankbait tied on that glass rod freeing up my graphite rods to do what needs to be done.
Why not just get a moderate action graphite rod, made for cranks? I mean, if you bought a specific rod just for cranks, why would glass or graphite matter? Pick one, or both. I wouldn't use use my graphite cranking rods for anything other than cranks.
I have one. I use it in a totally different way than my glass rod. Its alot more accurate so I use that for pinpoint casting SB crankbaits. Having the glass rod loaded up with another crankbait gives me depth and presentation options that I am finding i like.
Either way the topic was vs. At this point to stay on topic graphite wins for me. Its nice to have the change of pace on board though.
Good points.
Regarding casting distance it's all about how the rod loads, not the material of the blank. Also, if the bait is to heavy or light for the rod used it won't load correctly. I don't like glass because my accuracy sucks with it. I may be in the minority here, but I actually lost more fish with glass. At times I wouldn't detect a subtle take, didn't set the hook, and maniac smallmouth would toss my bait. Maybe it would have been better with braid? Regardless, I couldn't get use to it. With the right parabolic moderate action graphite blank, you shouldn't be loosing fish often anyways imo. Also when cranking around grass, leafs, etc, with graphite there's no mistaking picking up a hitchhiker. I can't say the same with glass.
On 9/30/2015 at 12:13 AM, Hogsticker said:Also when cranking around grass, leafs, etc, with graphite there's no mistaking picking up a hitchhiker. I can't say the same with glass.
I tried using an inexpensive composite rod for cranking and gave it up for this reason. Maybe a better quality rod would have performed better...
I don't seem to have a problem with crank bait hooks ripping out of fish using a MF graphite rod, plus I have all the sensitivity I like. I really can't see myself ever using a fiberglass rod again.
Tight lines,
Bob
I think the whole ripping hooks out bit is nonsense. What isn't nonsense is how the bait reacts and how you react when it comes in contact or deflects. Moderate action, irrespective of material, works better.
Fishing from shore I need to make the longest casts. To me it's not which rod material it what brand of line I'm using.
My longest casts are made with Excalibur Silver Thread Copolymer line. (Not the 40). The regular silver thread.
Nobody near me can out cast me. I need to reach the pads, sunken weeds and surface weeds.
I soak my very first cast with attractant on my popper.
Med/hvy action for topwater, jigs.
Med action spinnerbaits, crankbaits, inlines, plastics.
Med/Ltd action smaller baits. Spinnerbait, spinflys.