I started to use some DT-10's - 16's this past summer. I was using a Mojo Bass 7'4 MM glass rod with a Revo SX in 6.4:1. I'm trying to be as economical as possible since I don't deep crank often, so which factor would be the most critical for effective and efficient deep cranking? Is it the reel (gear ratio) or is it the rod (power, action, length, combo of all?)
My 7'4 mojo bass rod is rated up to 3/4 oz which it seems to handle fairly well, but my arms do get very fatigued using my current setup for just a few hours. I'd really hate to get a dedicated rod and reel for this, since I probably deep crank less than 10 percent of the time, but I wouldn't be opposed to buying just a new reel or new rod for this application.
I think a reel with a lower gear ratio will reduce fatigue significantly. Look for something like a 5.4:1 or something similar
Dobyn's 705CB or 765CB with a 5:1 reel. You'll be able to crank all day.
I'm assuming any reel in the 5.1 - 5.4:1 range would suffice? I was looking at the lews super duty and the revo winch. They both look like descent reels and I'm super familiar with Abu, so I'd probably take that route, all else being equal.
That new Fury 705cb is what you need. You can also get a cranking Lew's LFS, it's got a deeper spool and a longer handle for cranking.
On 11/10/2016 at 2:41 AM, fishballer06 said:Dobyn's 705CB or 765CB with a 5:1 reel. You'll be able to crank all day.
are you talking the champ 705cb? I don't think I want to drop another 200+ for a rod I don't anticipate to use often.
On 11/10/2016 at 5:38 AM, Robert Riley said:That new Fury 705cb is what you need. You can also get a cranking Lew's LFS, it's got a deeper spool and a longer handle for cranking.
I'm liking the price of the fury. Are you talking about this reel in 5.6:1?
yes sir.
My deep crank combo is a Curado 200I in the 5.5:1 ratio, paired with a Halo 7'11" MH Cranking Rod, and 10 pound fluorocarbon. Launches them a mile, especially a crank 3/4 of an ounce of heavier but even with cranks slightly under a half ounce I can fling them a long way.
Go with a longer rod as you'll want longer casts.
The mudhole mhx cb905 would be my choice.
You could also use that for traps and topwater treble lures.
On 11/10/2016 at 8:46 PM, custer said:Go with a longer rod as you'll want longer casts.
The mudhole mhx cb905 would be my choice.
You could also use that for traps and topwater treble lures.
Noted. I may try out my 7' MHF with a lower geared reel and see how that does. Then I will see if I want to go longer than 7'.
Thanks!
Not a fan of MH or 4 power rods for deep diving crankbaits like DD22 or bigger lures. You can cast the lure OK, the problem is the upper section of the moderate action rods get over loaded from the forces needed to retrieve these high water resistant lures and you don't have control of what the lure is doing. Another problem is using crankbait rods without a fore grip, trying to hold the reel in lieu of the longer rods will tire you out fast.
Tom
The reel. Go to a 5:1 gear ratio, that might alleviate some of the fatigue your feeling. Wide spool doent hurt either. Keeps the reel fuller of line then the gear ratio stays up without tiring out.
I'd bee looking for a reel with lower IPT as well. something in the 20-24" range.
I have the enigma aarons edge in 7'11" with lews lfs 5.4:1 as my dedicated deep setup. Ive been very pleased with it. Its not an overly expensive combo but it works nicely. Main knock people have on the rod is its looks. Many wont try them since they onsider them "ugly" but i personally care more about its action and price than looks.
Question, but how does a lower ratio reel help reducd fatigue when fishing deep cranks?
On 11/11/2016 at 5:55 AM, MBB Nate said:Question, but how does a lower ratio reel help reducd fatigue when fishing deep cranks?
Same as riding a bicycle up a hill. A different gear makes it easier.. You peddle faster but each turn it is easier.
Ahh ok. Going to need more turns of the reel but theres more oompf behind a 5 ratio vs a 7. Thanks
On 11/11/2016 at 2:48 AM, WRB said:Not a fan of MH or 4 power rods for deep diving crankbaits like DD22 or bigger lures. You can cast the lure OK, the problem is the upper section of the moderate action rods get over loaded from the forces needed to retrieve these high water resistant lures and you don't have control of what the lure is doing. Another problem is using crankbait rods without a fore grip, trying to hold the reel in lieu of the longer rods will tire you out fast.
Tom
Thanks Tom. What would rod action and power would you recommend using?
On 11/11/2016 at 7:52 AM, stk44 said:Thanks Tom. What would rod action and power would you recommend using?
That is a good question today. My crank bait rods are not made anymore by Lamiglas, XCF705R crank bait rods. Looking at what is available St Croix LGC74MHM , 7'4" rated for 3/8 to 1 oz lures or Loomis MH CBR864 DF, 7'2" rated for 3/8 to 1 oz lures, both are MH however, the H are both longer rods and would be aa good choice if the length works. Both these rods are pricey $250 range and over priced for crankbait rod. Try looking for the Lamiglas the Skeet Reese SR705R crankbait rod ( same as XCF except orange color) should be around $150 if you can find it.
Tom
PS, maybe DVT could find a Lamiglas blank or equal and make you a crankbait rod within your budget?
On 11/11/2016 at 10:53 AM, WRB said:That is a good question today. My crank bait rods are not made anymore by Lamiglas, XCF705R crank bait rods. Looking at what is available St Croix LGC74MHM , 7'4" rated for 3/8 to 1 oz lures or Loomis MH CBR864 DF, 7'2" rated for 3/8 to 1 oz lures, both are MH however, the H are both longer rods and would be aa good choice if the length works. Both these rods are pricey $250 range and over priced for crankbait rod. Try looking for the Lamiglas the Skeet Reese SR705R crankbait rod ( same as XCF except orange color) should be around $150 if you can find it.
Tom
I looked at the legend glass crank rods before. I'll pay up to $300 dollars for a good rod when I need sensitivity, but it kills me to think of paying close to that for a crankbait rod, even though I probably use crankbaits just as much. I'm not sure why that is.
I'll see if I can locate some info on the skeet Reese SR705R. Thank you for the help!
Shimano Cardiff 300 series makes a good cranking reel, good line capacity and 5.8:1 ratio and also a good swimbait reel.
I have used IROD Freds magic IRG754F frog rod for cranking big deep divers on few occasions and it works OK.
Tom
not to hijack your thread but has anyone used the bass pro crankin stick? specifically the 7'6" mh
I don't deep crank but a few times a year so I found a combo that I use for a like technique. Cardiff 200 with a Falcon HD 7' MH. The rod loads great with the heavier cranks and is very lightweight. The Cardiff is a little faster than ideal but I find it easier to slowdown with the round reel.
I got a cranking rod from sports academy this summer. its their brand (x20?). can't remember the name of the rod ( i think its called an "ethos"), but its blue and around $90. I love it, its got quality guides and blank thru constuction, and a really comfortable handle. It may be a little faster action than some like, but i'm not a big fan of crankin rods that feel like noodles. I like to feel whats happening down there. I also looked at some new berkley rods the other day that feel real nice in that $100 range.
Forgot to mention falco bucco. There very nice rods for the price. I've had a couple for 4-5 years and they hold up very well.
If you only plan on changing out one or the other and the deepest crank you'll be throwing is a DT-16, it's a toss up IMO. A H/Mod. Fast composite rod will take some of the strain off as will a lower gear ratio reel.
If you do go with changing out the rod, get one with a long handle that you can tuck under your arm. That will all but take your wrist out of the equation.
I didn't use my deep cranking reel once this year after I started cranking this way.
On 11/12/2016 at 7:15 AM, papajoe222 said:If you only plan on changing out one or the other and the deepest crank you'll be throwing is a DT-16, it's a toss up IMO. A H/Mod. Fast composite rod will take some of the strain off as will a lower gear ratio reel.
If you do go with changing out the rod, get one with a long handle that you can tuck under your arm. That will all but take your wrist out of the equation.
I didn't use my deep cranking reel once this year after I started cranking this way.
How do you think the mojo bass MH moderate in 7'8" would do? At that price I could probably get lower geared reel as well. Would that be the best of both worlds?
You could make a fore grip with Winn's Rod Wrap, I did this with my IRODS.
Tom
On 11/12/2016 at 10:43 AM, WRB said:You could make a fore grip with Winn's Rod Wrap, I did this with my IRODS.
Tom
That's a great idea. I've never used a foregrip before, but I would imagine it would take a lot of stress of the wrist and forearm.