Crankbait Rods 2025

DelcoSol reply :

Hey guys. Another rod setup question here. I am planning to asemble my arsenal here and was wondering a few things.

First off how many rods do you use? I am planning on using four but see people with a lot more. I will use:

7'3" MH for bottom contact like jigs, C rig, and Texas rig

7'3" H for punching and frogging

?? ? for crankbait, spinerbait and top water

6'6" M spining for drop shot and finesse

One question I have is regarding rod length. I see some of these rod companies make rods in different lengths but are very close to each other. For example a 7'1" and a 7'3" from the same rod. Will those two inches make that much of a difference?( That's what she said) I could understand six inch increments but two?

Also what do you guys prefer for a crankbait rod as far as length and reel ratio? I was thinkng of running a slower 5:1 reel. I am interested in trying a crankbait rod because a medium is too weak for them but some MH are too stiff in the tip to feel the vibration of the lure. I assume the crankbait rod is the remedy for this?

JeziHogg reply :

A good all around crankbait rod is the LTB78MHM. Its good for crankbaits as small as a 1.5 KVD Squarebill but can also handle a SK 6XD. I have this rod paired with an Abu Garcia Gen 3 winch. I also have a LXC72MM for smaller crankbaits such as the 1.0 KVD Squarebills and SK 3XD's. I also pair it with a Abu Garcia Gen 3 Winch.

DelcoSol reply :

Who makes the rod? Not a fan of Revo reels.

Dwight Hottle reply :

St croix.

rockchalk06 reply :

I bought the St. Croix Avid MHM. Of all the stuff I have purchased over the years, that was the best purchase by far.

As for top water, I like a fast action. Much easier to work the bait.

martintheduck reply :

I've got duplicates of setups so I can run different lures on the fly. I really don't notice a difference in length under 6 inches. I run 6'10's in tight spots, 7'2's for average situations and shallow cranks, 7'6's for flipping, 7'11's for deep cranks and flipping jittery fish.

As for the crankbait scenario....

Tried a MH 7'2" Crucial. Crap. Can't load up to (easily) get distance on the cast. Too stiff. Lost fish. Now use it for a spinner rod.

Next, bought a Medium action Falcon Bucoo.. It works great, but does feel flimsy when running deeps. I use it now for squarebills and it works great... the flimsyness(for lack of better word) makes it perfect when running that square through woods. Finally experienced what people say - "this and that rod is over/under-rated."

Found a new Medium Cumara 7'11" crank specific rod for $150 on ebay and snagged it. Problem solved. Favorite all around crank rod I've owned. Use it from squarebills up to Mann's 30+ and it SHINES! It's literally exactly what I've wanted all along. Refused to believe people saying "MH or H is the way to go for cranks..." I've tried them before and I had the same results as you.... it just doesn't feel right.

I did shop around and look at various "crank specific rods" and found that different companies make their crank rods with diff actions. Like a loomis 7'11" crank rod is HEAVY action!? Then found various MH actions!?!? Most people recommended me to go with Dobyns or Duckett, but I'm just stuck on the Cumara line right now. Everytime I pick one of mine up I get this feeling of "ahhhh.... that's MUCH better."

Also, I'm running a Revo Winch (not because I like it). Got is used. Has beefy reel and longer reel handle so it helps with fatigue when pounding that crankbait all day. I'm set on a 5:4:1 ratio right now because at a regular pace reel, that low ratio really gets that lure down to the bottom and gets it moving nice and slow for these lazy bass in my area. Going back to the 6:1 here once is starts cooling down.

Sorry for my response being "all over the place..."

DelcoSol reply :

Thanks for the replies guys. I find it interesting that you suggest using a medium rod. Now is this because that particular rod runs on the stiff side or do you find the medium action better? I find with a lighter rod running something like a DT16 or 6XD it feels like it is overloaded. My veritas MH doesnt feel overmatched but the tip is a little too stiff to feel the vibration of the lure. My buddy just got a 7'11" Duckett Micro Magic MH crankbait rod on a great deal yesterday and I want to try it out. The guy at a local shop got the wrong rod shipped to him so rather than send it back he just blew it out. Got a $170 rod for $90. The 7'11" seems really long but it's what Duckett recommends for deep cranks. The tip seems really soft on it so I am curious to see how it does.

new2BC4bass reply :

How many rods do I use? One at a time. Sorry. Couldn't help myself.

One word for the reason to use long crankbait rods. Distance.

Fishing from shore never allowed me to use a deep running crankbait. Now that I have a boat (of sorts) I'll have to see if I have a rod that would work. Would like to use my Airrus Ultra 7' MH, but it may be too powerful. My only dedicated crankbait rod is a 7' Medium Falcon Cara although I think my Daiwa V.I.P. Medium may also get dedicated for shallow and medium running cranks. However, I will throw crankbaits on a variety of rods with the shortest being 6'6". I am limited on how many rods I can carry with me. The car will hold only so many...the boat even less.

I agree with rockchalk regarding action for topwater. Matter of fact I have been trying a 6'9" MXF. Like how it works the lure, but haven't caught a fish on it yet.

bass1980 reply :

Have you use a true cranking rod before? Their M and MH will not feel anything close to a regular rods feel.

For deep drivers a longer stick and MH or H is needed. One you can cast longer. This allows your crank to get to its depth and then stay in that depth longer because once your crank starts getting closer to you it'll lose depth.

I prefer 7'0 MHM for square bill cranks because I'm trying to bang them on the bottom or stumps. IMO I don't like to use MM for cranks over 1/2oz

DelcoSol reply :

This was kind of my understanding of the crankbait rod. Subtle enough on the tip to feel the bait yet have enough backbone to handle the deep divers without too much stress on the rod. Seems to be a lot of varience between different rod companies as far as power and taper go. God I thought picking out a regular rod was hard.. I hate having to make purchases without being able to fish the rod.

Fishes in trees reply :

Throwing cranks is such a subjective thing. Feel versus distance. Glass versus graphite. Longer rods versus ease of storage.

Taking other guys word for how different rods work for you only goes so far. You've got to experiment for yourself and be willing to make a few mistakes.

Me, I have issues with glass rods. I get the distance I like most of the time, but I can stand the "delayed reaction" you get to strikes. Also, in my truck, rods over 7'3" or so get problematic in terms of storage.

I think that everything involved with cranking rods is a compromise and you get to pick & choose what you want.

Currently I am a fan of graphite rods, because, no matter what distance the bait is from me, I think I get better feel than I do with a glass rod of relatively equal power.

MY current crank rods are relatively cheap compared to other rods in my arsenal. I use a BPS Extreme 7'4" Woo Davies special - medium action (in BPS terms.)

This rod was originally marketed by BPS as a light pitching rod and for me it didn't work very well for that.

Put a 3/8 or 1/2 ounce crank bait on this rod and it is plenty sensitive and has enough tip that it loads ok and gets decent distance. Handle is long enough that two handed casting is easy, which reduces the strain on wrists and elbows. Price is ok. List is generally around $90 and they frequently go on sale to around $70. Just another rod to consider.

Now if the subject is square bill rods, my new this year 7'4" Fenwick AETOS med action beats every other rod I've ever tried for square bills hands down. Again, another subjective opinion, but as far as square bill rods issues are concerned, that issue is solved, at least until I break it.

DelcoSol reply :

Why use a different rod for square bills? I know the wobble is different but isnt the principle the same? Crank the lure to depth and deflect the lure off of cover to trigger strikes.

bass1980 reply :

A crank rod will feel extremely whimpy/soft/flexible/noodleish however you want to call it. Most of them are moderate action so its not just the tip that will flex but half way down the rod. From reading your comments I bet you'll be in shock of the moderate feel of a glass cranking rod. A graphite crank rod will have more backbone but don't expect to feel that much either since its moderate action and made for cranks.

The idea behind cranking rod is you lose fish on treble hooks when a fish shakes it off. So when you're on fish just keep reelin them in with the reel and not with rod. As the fish fights and shakes the rods flexibility with its moderate action will move with the fish and you line will always be tight and reduce the chance of them shaking that treble hook out. Someone correct me if I'm wrong.

rockchalk06 reply :

On 8/30/2013 at 12:33 AM, bass1980 said:

A crank rod will feel extremely whimpy/soft/flexible/noodleish however you want to call it. Most of them are moderate action so its not just the tip that will flex but half way down the rod. From reading your comments I bet you'll be in shock of the moderate feel of a glass cranking rod. A graphite crank rod will have more backbone but don't expect to feel that much either since its moderate action and made for cranks.

The idea behind cranking rod is you lose fish on treble hooks when a fish shakes it off. So when you're on fish just keep reelin them in with the reel and not with rod. As the fish fights and shakes the rods flexibility with its moderate action will move with the fish and you line will always be tight and reduce the chance of them shaking that treble hook out. Someone correct me if I'm wrong.

Na, your spot on. It also keeps you from ripping the bait away on the strike. You can all but lay the wood to them and have a better shot at keeping your fish on.

Fishes in trees reply :

I have a different rod for square bills because, basically I throw square bills often, I always have one tied on on deck. For throwing square bills, the 7'4" AETOS works the best for me so far.

Basically I like a stiffer, more sensitive rods for cranks because I want to know about strikes ASAP. I will take my chances on the fish throwing the hooks.

martintheduck reply :

Figures it would turn into this "multiple opinions" type thread (and that's not a bad thing).

I'm going to come through with a bit of honesty here:

I learned about crankbaits blindly without anyone to teach me. I started throwing them on a MH rod for a few casts, no bites, pick up something else. Finally gave in and decided to LEARN cranks and first time I fished strictly crank all day I was exhausted. Looked up various articles and videos and found conflicting information. Some ppl verified I had a good setup and I was doing it right, others said I should drop down the action of my rod and lighten my line. Lightened the line first but NOT the rod, lost some fish, got snagged a lot, went back to the drawing board.

Forums and videos told me my rod was too heavy. Ultimately (and I know this will sound sad), I watched a bunch of videos about KVD fishing cranks and decided to take his advice. Medium action rod w/ moderate -to- modfast taper, 8/10/12 test fluro, and gear ratio to fit the situation at hand. The medium action is supposed to help with absorbing some of the vibration of the lure (and be easier on the arms and wrist) and it's supposed to do better with hook-sets and NOT ripping trebles out their mouth. That's the point at which I bought the 7'3" Falcon Bucoo Medium. THIS ROD LET ME ROCKET THE LURE A MILE! I mean launch that sucker! I don't know what everyone elses thoughts are, but I can sling a crank farther w/ a Med action than a MH or H.

Fished it with some dd22's and 6ft's and did okay. It was a LOT easier on my arms, and I actually managed to get some solid hooksets. Ultimately, though, I thought "DANG this thing is weak!" Just bends in half when cranking! Started reading around and found some Falcon rods are action-over-rated. I now use it for square bills and it's perfect. BUT I was determined to find a rod perfect for cranks!

Got a WHOLE BUNCH of recommendations from people about which rods to get and lengths. I settled on wanting a 7'11" b/c KVD and Paul Elias both seemed pretty adamant about that detail - "It will give you better casting distance. Also, when you're fishing with that rod tip down, the tip will be right on the water so you aren't losing any depth in the crank."

Shopped around online to see which ones fit my decisions - 7'11" Medium crank-specific. Didn't find anything that jumped out at me. Most everything was rated MH or H. Finally decided I'd hold off on buying one till I found exactly what I wanted.

Well I went on ebay a few days later and was looking at 7'11" rods and up pops a Cumara. Click it, read, look - brand new. $150. Medium action. Moderate taper. Exactly what I wanted. IN ADDITION - I have some other Cumara's and like I said, favorite rod's I own. So - my favorite rod in a crank specific model with all the specs I want? Well I ordered it!

Got it. Fished it. Loved it. Comparing to my spinning gear, it's more of a stiffer Medium. DEFINITELY not as stiff as any of my MH's though.... even my MH Cumara. It's got way more give than those.

I like the length because I can stand straight up and have the rod tip right on the water, so I am getting deepest run possible (without kneel and reeling). The action is good b/c I can load up on the rod when casting and LAUNCH that bait a mile. I can only speak for myself, i launch a crank farther on a loaded-up Medium than I can on a MH or H. Also, the vibration from the "swimming" lure is absorbed a bit by the rod rather than transferred directly into my wrist and arm. I'm able to fish cranks with FAR less fatigue on this Medium rod. I still can feel EVERYTHING too. The length has helped me out when trying to get a few feet deeper too---- kneel and reel and I can get the dd22's down to the actual 22 ft.

Maybe some of that will help. Maybe not. Ultimately I was told to just go with a "standard" crank rod which is a lighter action... then I independently decided for the 7'11" length. Maybe one day I'll decide to up the action on my rod, but not today or anytime soon... I'm really doing well on cranks (deep cranks at the moment) now that I have a good "standard" setup. I say "standard" because it seems like all the pro's I've watched will only use heavier rods out of personal preference... not because of any glaring benefits.

Sam reply :

Outstanding story, Martin. You experienced what us old goats have been going through for years.

Your story highlights why I always tell the guys not to read or listen to the brands the pros are hawking but pay attention to the tackle's specifics.

Now, DelcoSol and those great Philly Flyers...to give you my input on your three queries:

First off how many rods do you use? - When pond fishing I will take four. When tournament fishing the sky is the limit. Took eleven with me on the Historic James River two weeks ago in a tournament. Used nine of the eleven.

Length? - Any length you want depending on your height and the depth of your cranks. I throw a 7-foot medium action graphite rod.

Reel Ratio? - 5:1 for the slow retrieve.

Crankbait fishing can wear you out. If your rod or reel are too heavy or you do a lot of casting and reeling you can get fatigued. You can also have sore elbows and shoulders.

With bass fishing you can create any outfit you want. If you like the Shimano rods then go with them. If you graduate the to G. Loomis cranking sticks you will surprised at how light they are. In fact, you may think they will break in half with a hook set.

And speaking of hook sets, please remember to swing the rod to the right or left and not over your head when setting the hook. Also, always keep the line tight as any slack and the bass will throw the crankbait.

Always think "tight lines" after setting that crankbait.

DelcoSol reply :

Thanks for the replies guys. Martin, have you fished a crank specific rod? I can't speak for other rods except these two ducketts in my hands. One is a 7' MH micro magic, the other is a 7'11" MH micro magic cranking rod. The cranking rod is substantially whippier. It does not feel nearly as stiff as the MH. I was just wondering if the cranking rods are all softer much like a regular medium rod? I know every rod company is different as far as their blanks go. I know having the lower ratio reel will also help with the bend in the rod as well. Right now my 6'9" MH Veritas with 6.4:1 reel is a workout. I am new to cranking so I am just trying to maximize my chances for success to develop some confidence.

bass1980 reply :

Yup like what Gary Yamamoto calls it, do a sweep set instead of a hook set when your on fish.

Lower gear ratio will give you more torque. Anything deep diver or 5/8oz or more I cannot stand faster ratio reels as they fatigue me. I don't have Popeyes forearms.

martintheduck reply :

On 8/30/2013 at 4:56 AM, DelcoSol said:
Thanks for the replies guys. Martin, have you fished a crank specific rod? I can't speak for other rods except these two ducketts in my hands. One is a 7' MH micro magic, the other is a 7'11" MH micro magic cranking rod. The cranking rod is substantially whippier. It does not feel nearly as stiff as the MH. I was just wondering if the cranking rods are all softer much like a regular medium rod? I know every rod company is different as far as their blanks go. I know having the lower ratio reel will also help with the bend in the rod as well. Right now my 6'9" MH Veritas with 6.4:1 reel is a workout. I am new to cranking so I am just trying to maximize my chances for success to develop some confidence.

My 7'11" is a Crank specific rod. My MH and Medium Falcon aren't any technique specific.... just a MH and M rod. After we started on this thread, I've started to wonder the same thing as you Del - Are MH crank rods softer than, say, a MH jig rod? hmmm

aavery2 reply :

On 8/30/2013 at 12:13 PM, martintheduck said:
My 7'11" is a Crank specific rod. My MH and Medium Falcon aren't any technique specific.... just a MH and M rod. After we started on this thread, I've started to wonder the same thing as you Del - Are MH crank rods softer than, say, a MH jig rod? hmmm

Rods within the same family and Power rating should be fairly consistent. What makes a crankbait rod softer as you call it is the Action. Crankbait rods typically have either a moderate or moderate fast action which allows them to bend much further down the blank before they reach the backbone of the rod. I have followed this thread from the beginning and it reads as if a little study and clarification on the difference between power and action would answer a lot of your questions and help you understand why certain rods are a better choice for certain techniques.

DelcoSol reply :

Therein lies the confusion. Most crankbait rods do not specify action, they just say cranking rod which I am assuming would be a MH moderate action. So in theory a a MHM rod would be the same as one as a cranking rod?

aavery2 reply :

On 8/30/2013 at 8:24 PM, DelcoSol said:
Therein lies the confusion. Most crankbait rods do not specify action, they just say cranking rod which I am assuming would be a MH moderate action. So in theory a a MHM rod would be the same as one as a cranking rod?

The power of a crankbait can be anything, usually M, MH of H you can use this to determine how heavy a bait the rod will work well with, the action will come in moderate, or moderate fast for all these powers and deteremines how far down the blank the rod will flex.

Crankbait rods are offered in several different materials, glass, composite, and carbon fiber. Each of these rods have their own characteristics and a MH Moderate in one material will be much different than the others.

Bass_Fanatic reply :

I own a Powell Max 703CB Glass, Duckett 7'11" Crankin rod, BPS Carbonlite 7' M/M, and a Powell TW exclusive Deep Crankin rod. For anything diving 15'+ the Powell TW exlusive Deep Crankin rod is lights out. The Duckett doesnt even compare. I can feel every little subtle change and it is forgiving enough to keep fish buttoned. For shallower cranks, I like my Powell Max 703CB Glass. Its not quite as "sensitive" but you really dont need an uber sensitive rod for cranking. It has the perfect flex IMO and I have yet to loose a fish on it and that is over 3 years. I think the Powell 703 CB Glass is the most versitale out of the bunch too. I can through sqaurebills to 6XDs on it no problem.

JTMONEY606 reply :

i think you just made my decesion on a good crank stick i throw alot of buzzbaits and spinnerbaits, also square bills. i think the 703 will be my next rod. not trying too hijack the thread op but anyone know what curado gear ratio would pair up best with this 703.

DelcoSol reply :

I fished the Duckett crankbait rod today and I must say I was impressed. Throwing the 6XD and reeling was almost effortless compared to my MH Veritas. Both rods had a 6.4:1 reel. After using the Abu my hands were killing me. The Duckett was much more fluid.

martintheduck reply :

What action was the Duckett?

Arv reply :

If you're looking for a rod that will handle cranks, topwaters and spinnerbaits I'd check out the Powell Max TW Squarebill rod. I have the old Endurance 695cb, which I'm pretty sure is basically the same rod. This rod does a great job with squarebills, lipless cranks and topwaters. I also wouldn't hesitate to throw a spinnerbait on it as well. For a cranking rod I find it to be pretty versatile. TT also did a review you can check out if you're interested. If you're looking for a mid-deep cranking stick, I'd look for something longer.

DelcoSol reply :

Duckett does not specify an action for their rods. It only says MH Crankbait. I assume it has to be a moderate because the tip is much softer than the regular MH micro magic. Do you guys think its worth spending a lot of money on a cranking rod or is it something I can get away with in the $100 range? I understand the higher dollar rods are much more sensitive but is that really important while cranking?

Thanks for the tip Arv. I have actually been checking out the Powell rods before and am interested in them.

Arv reply :

Here's my take on cranking rod sensitivity, for what its worth. I want something sensitive, yes. Does it have to be THE MOST sensitive rod affordable, probably not. I would reserve that for bottom contact presentations. But you still want to know what your lure is doing, when its bumping into something and when you get bit. At the $100 dollar mark, you might be able fine a rod that is up to your standards. Just don't go for something cheap to fill a hole in your line up though. I've done that before and I wind up selling the rod for much less than I bought it for and buying something that I should have waited for and bought in the first place.

DelcoSol reply :

I agree. I don't want to buy a POS but at the same time I know the important money is invested in the bottom contact rod. I am also new to crankbait fishing but I want something to increase my chance of success. I will be getting the Lews tournament MG in the 5:1 ratio to pair with the rod. I don't really have a clue which brand rod I am going to get. Probably between the brands of Dobyns, Duckett, Falcon, Powell and Phenix but I have to do some more research.

Arv reply :

Sounds like you're off to a good start. I doubt you could really go wrong with any of those. I've had experience with Dobyns, Powell and Phenix, not all cranking rods mind you, but I feel that they all put out a quality product.

pbizzle reply :

I like the All Star Rods.

CentralBamaBassin reply :

I bought a st croix mojo bass glass CB rod 7'4 medium about a month ago and love it throws everything from 5xd's to 1.5's without any problems . Plus the rod is really light weight for a glass rod

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