I'm thinking of going to braid for everything and wanted to see how many other people are already doing this. I don't have many rods and reels and have been thinking of putting different lb braid on all of them. I have 2 poles that see most of my action. One is a spinning reel and the other a baitcaster. I use both as "do it all" rods. The spinning reel is a 6' 9" St. Croix Avid and the baitcaster is a 7' MH Dobyns Savvy. I had Seaguar InvizX on both last year and wasn't that happy with it. It had a lot of memory and I had line twist issues. No I didn't treat it with line conditioner. I just want to hear everyone's opinion on if braid would be a good choice.
I like braid but I don't use it all the time.
I like having some stretch on reaction baits (cranks, spinnerbait).
With that being said I rather spinnerbait with braid than flip with heavy cove with mono haha
I guess just depends what your typical water is like?
I have braid on all three baitcasters I have. All green power pro. I run 50 on my quantum accurist pt and my Abu Garcia revo x. On my shimano chronarch I use 30. The revo and chronarch go on almost every trip together so I have the 30 and 50. If not then I bring the quantum depending.
I use braid on every reel i own minus my cranking setup (but realy thinking about going to braid or maybe copolymer there too). I use 15 lb Power Pro on my spinning rods, and anything from 20-65 lb on my baitcasters. As well, i will use a short fluoro or mono leader for concealment or action. Simply put, i prefer to cast braid over fluoro or mono, and it is much more managable IMO
I used to use braid for everything except my crankin rod. 50lb PP on everything. Last year I won a free 660yrd spool of Sunline Fluoro so I have been using it. I liked it but just didn't feel as confident fishing it around heavy timber like I did with braid. Now, both my flippin sticks and spinnerbait rigs have braid. My squarebill rod, texas rig rod, and football rig rod have the fluoro while my crankin rod and weightless rod have copoly. As I use up the fluoro it will be replaced with braid.
Cliff
I have braid on all but 2 light spinning rods used specifically for wacky rigged senkos. I am a new convert to braid, less than one year. I used to think fish could see it.....now I really don't think it matters all that much.
I use 15# braid for everything. I dislike some things about it, but I'm not going back.
All braid on my spinning gear. 10 lb PowerPro in Hi-Vis Yellow. Use a smattering of leader material. Never go back to all mono/copoly/fluoro on spinning gear again.
Baitcasting: right now I've got different lb test of P-Line Floroclear. I'd go all braid if my wife didn't know how much line I've got that isn't braid. Until I burn all that out, it's mono, copoly on baitcasters.
I fish braid for everything. I use 30 lb suffix 832 braid on all of my rods except for my crank bait rod. For it I use 30 lb suffix stretch braid and a medium light rod with a lot of give in the tip. The downside to using braid for crank baits is that it will bend your treble hooks. Manufacturers have adapted and created superline hooks for worm fishing but I have not seen any crank baits being made with a thicker gauge hook to offset the lack of stretch in braid. The suffix stretch is supposed to have a little give but I can't tell much of a difference to be honest. I have tried to accommodate for this by using a very giving rod, the stretch braid, and loosening the drag on my reel. This setup is working for me. I don't think I could ever go back to mono.
iuse 10 lb sufix 832 on spinning and 50 lb sufix 832 on baitcasters.
While I don't use braid on everything, nor do I ever plan to; this video might be relevant...
I use braid for everything, going on 3 years now. Even...............gasp................crankbaits. Keeping fish hooked on cranks, and/or letting fish "eat" reaction baits before you pull it away from them is all in the rod. The visability thing is questionable at best, especialy for heavy cover dwelling largemouth, I think open water smallmout might ...."might"....get a little line shy, so I use fluoro leaders for dropshotting, and other finesse techniques when targeting smallies. The only time I use a fluoro leader when largemouth fishing is around rock, or when pike are biting.
Good to hear there are quite a few other people using braid on most or all of their setups. I think the baitcaster is getting 30 lb braid with no leader and the spinning rod I might put a leader on but 10 lb braid for sure. Not sure yet on the leader. I have some flouro and mono around so I might give it a try. I'm not sold on the fish seeing the line. I think I'll go with Sufix 832 Ghost or Power Pro. They seem to be the popular choices. What's everyone else using for brand?
Braid on all mine-- 8# on spincasters, underspins,,spinning. 10# on 2 baitcasters and 20# on another baitcaster. Brands Stren Super braid, Power Pro, Sufix Performance.
Braid on everything except a few saltwater applications.
I use braid, no leader, on everything except one rod for soft jerkbaits which has flouro because it sinks. If the Alabama rig catches bass in clear water lakes like Table Rock and LOZ in MO, then how can line visibility be an issue? Line diameter might be since it affects lure action, so I use 20-30 lb braid.
65# Spiderwire on all my rigs. Not what you call a finese fisherman. No problems with crankbaits, spooks, or worms. You have to get used to handling braid to know how to set hooks depending on what your using.
I tried to fish Braided line exclusively last year... and quickly switched bad to using the right line for the right application. I pretty much only use braided line for Froggin' and for the larger jerkbaits. <4"
I have 30# braid on most of my setups both spinning and baitcast. I keep braid on the main spool for the spinning setups but either a co-poly,mono or flouro on the backup spool for those windy days that make braid kinda hard to cast from the shore. I have 50# braid on the flipping setups and have never used a leader since most waters I fish are stained.
I try to stay away from braid under 30 lb on my baitcasters because any smaller diameter will dig into the spool. If you set the hook on a fish and the line digs, i guarantee you will get a nice backlash every time. However, you can get away with ( and shoudl IMO) using 10-15 lb braid on spinning tackle. I primarily use Power Pro from experience. I find that Sufix 832 loses color alot faster and tends to break down quicker. As well, i just dont like the feel of it.
I used to put braid on everything and switched to flouro for most applications to see if my catch ratio went up. I'm catching more fish now but I don't think its because of the line switch. I really like braid and would prefer to use it for everything. I will probably go back to braid slowly over the next year and use a leader if I think its needed.
As for brand I use Power Pro since its always worked for me. I've got PP on one rod that's been on there for 7 years and its still going strong although I have to re-color it with a permanent marker.
I also haven't noticed much of an issue with using crankbaits on braid. It's all in the rod and your wrist as you're reeling in the lure.
Okay, I hate braid!
However, braided line has significantly improved my jig fishing.
I also use braid to fish The Rig.
I also hate braid, and it is only on my frog and musky set ups that neither get much use. I also have one punching setup that I only use part of the year, and dont really like doing that either.
Love braid, but can't stand it when it's even breezy out, let alone windy.
On 5/31/2012 at 5:40 AM, Jaheff said:Love braid, but can't stand it when it's even breezy out, let alone windy.
I fish braid at the ocean nearly everyday, nothing heavier than 20#. If I'm using my stradics or daiwas I never get wind knots, there is no negative at all and it gets very windy here. Braid can be a nightmare if using lures than spin, like inline spinners or if you troll with certain kinds of spoons like a drone, j-spoon, clark, once the line is twisted it's too late, trash it. Only times I use mono lines are drift fishing with bait, trolling and casting for barracuda with my home made cuda tubes. I use braid 100% of the time in freshwater for every technique I employ, I've yet to have any negative.
Give me a nice breeze 15-20 mph with a good 3' chop anytime for fishing.
I only use braid on spinning reels and only to avoid loops and the trouble from the lines twist. I dont frog since there arent any frogs left in my part of Fl. 95% of my fishing is topwater or just sub surface with flukes.
I have #10 PowerPro yellow & #10 flouro leader on my spinning rigs, and #40 PP on my casting rigs with #20 leaders. On the rare occasion I fish a crankbait, I have a soft rod with #10 PP and #10 leader for that (only fish smaller cranks). Once I first fished braid, I couldn't deal with anything less sensitive.
On 5/31/2012 at 5:40 AM, Jaheff said:Love braid, but can't stand it when it's even breezy out, let alone windy.
You didn't specify why you don't like it in the wind but personally, I hate it in the wind because it acts like a sail and it's tough to keep a soft plastic where I want it.
Braid all the way... 8/30 pound on spinning, 12/50 pound on baitcaster. One except is rod I throw my a-rig on it's got 14/65 pound.
I use braid on all my rods from Panfish to Tarpon. I always us a Seaguar fluorocarbon leader tied with a uni to uni knot. When I first started using it I found that if you use a light drag on a crankbait I was not having a problem pulling loose.
On 5/31/2012 at 10:17 PM, Ratherbfishing said:You didn't specify why you don't like it in the wind but personally, I hate it in the wind because it acts like a sail and it's tough to keep a soft plastic where I want it.
I don't like shallow water finesse fishing with braid when there is brush sticking out of the water.
One of the lakes I fish the most, we call them stick ups. Braid will get caught on at least two stick ups every cast in the wind. Where copoly,fluro,or mono won't.
I still love braid with a leader,or top shot in open or deep water.I will still continue to use braid for other ocean species.
It's all I fish except for a couple rods with yo-zuri. If your not used to fishing with it then it takes some getting used to. For me it's superior to all other lines and the sensitivity on moving baits is 2nd to none. When you impart action on a bait or set the hook the no stretch make it right now and with force. It is also the best for fishing weeds. If you get fouled you can clear it much easier then other lines. Did I mention it's almost unbreakable and probably the easiest line to manage since it has no memory? If they could make a sinking version and give it slack line sensitivity all other lines would be almost obsolete.
power pro super slick 20# on my dawia px typ r and shimano cumara 6'3" rod and suffix 832 10# on shimano ci4 1000 fml and falcon bucco 6' rod..
i don't use braid on my spinning set up however I use braid on both my baitcasters and use a fluorocarbon leader. I tie a double uni knot to join the lines. I never used braid for all my baitcasters till a few weeks ago(friend told me to try out the fluoro leader) and i love it.
I use 20# green Suffix braid on my baitcasters, never had a problem with line digging into my spools.
I use the Mustad Triple Grips on my cranks and they hold up well to the braid. They even make a 1x version that is a heavier guage which could stand up to quite a bit of abuse I'm sure.
Braid on everything, But let me explain. On my perch rods I have 6# braid, or fireline, I use either fireline braid or power pro on all of em, I use a 6 to 12 foot leader for the type of fishing I'm doing on every one of them. either Trilene Big Game for stained water, or Seaguar fluoro in clearer water, perch and bluegill 6# braid and 3 or 4# fluoro, open water or finness bass and walleye, 20-30# on baitcast reels with 6 to 12# fluoro, heavy cover timber, 20-30# with 12 to 25# fluoro, for Pike and Muskie on the 400B Calcuttas I have 65 Fireline Tracer Braid and run knot-less 36" Viscious 130# test Ball Bearing welded ring swivells and 100# Berkley cross lock snap Fluoro leaders. I have used 8 foot of 25# fluoro to the ball bearing @ the leader in very clear open water for pike and muskie and back the drag off when I feel the need, but stay away from heavy weeds when I do.
I can run 15 to 20# on my bass and walleye spinning reels and it is like 4 or 6# test in mono, I get down with less weight to do the same job, I turn the line on my reels around every other year, so my baitcaster's and spinning reel's get 4 years of use out of 120 to 150 yards of line, when I turn it around on the spool It is brand new, no memory, if you run a lighter pound leader you will never lose anything but your leader on a breakoff, Once in a while I will trim a foot or so off the main line, but very seldom, even fishing fast river rocky areas for smallies after 6 or 8 hours I usually only do this once.
I prefer 30 lbs. on my Bass size Baitcasters, except I have one Lews TP 7.1:1 that is on an Avid MLXF which is my light line clear water rigging Bass and Walleye rod that never has a leader heavier than 8 LBS test on it, and run 20# Tracer Braid on it. I have never had line dig in problems with. But I had this on one of my other Baitcast reels and it did dig in to the spool. I could run 15 to 20 foot deep div ers and once in a while that was enough pressure when ripping them the line would dig in, after I went to 30 lbs I didn't have any more problem, and it is still only 8 lbs test diameter.
Lastly I drop my rod weight to a lighter weight rod with a moderate action for crank's and spinner's for a little more forgiveness, when throwing or trolling them on Braid, but still run a 6 to 12# leader10 to 12'long, and always use a blood knot to join it to the main line. This has been used for 10 to 15 years on my St Croix Avids and Legends and has never damaged an eye on any rod. Just how I do it.