Is rod sensitivity "over rated" for many techniques? 2024
vintagerod reply :
What are your thoughts on this?
It seems to me that for topwaters, spinnerbaits, buzz baits, crankbaits, and jerk baits, that it doesn't make sense to pay big money for ultra sensitive rod blanks, since the way you fish these baits (or more importantly, the way bass hit these baits), sensitivity isn't an issue.
I ask because I am in the market for a nice rod to use for a variety of these techniques. As I was looking through G. Loomis' line, I noticed that super sensitive IMX or GLX isn't offered in the Spinnerbait or Crankbait line (and they are MUCH cheaper, too).
Now, for worms and jigs, sensitivity is a big concern.
Any thoughts on this?
Grey Wolf reply :
I agree with your line of thought , you don't need an expensive rod to fish the techniques you mentioned. There are a lot of very good rods in the 75.00 to 150.00 range that suits the purpose.
oxbowbass reply :
I am on your side on this one VR. I love the extra sensitivity for finesse presentations, but the big bucks you pay for the upper tier rods doesn't make a lot of difference to me for ripping baits.
Ballpark Frank reply :
I agree with you too. For jigs and worming, I use a GLX , an IMX, and a Mossyback. The Mossyback is kinda between a GL3 and IMX. But it seems as sensitive as my IMX. I have used several other techniques with these rods and it seems to be too much sensitivity. Try running a chatterbait, spinnerbait, or rattle trap on an IMX or GLX with flouro, it feels like my hand is going to vibrate off. Some will disagree but, I still like my regular old Lightning Rods and Cherrywoods for tops, spinners, and cranks.
Micro reply :
I like sensitivity when crankbait fishing. I know a lot of people like soft fiberglass rods. Maybe they are best. But I usually fish crankbaits on my graphite M/F spinning rods, and occassionally baitcasters. I like the distinct feedback I get with a sensitive graphite rod. I can immediately tell if something has changed. I can feel the normal vibration of the lure. I've gotten to where I can tell I've picked up a piece of grass or something by the change in vibration. I can tell easier when I've bumped into something, and can distinctly tell what sort of botton the lure is bopping over.
I think sensitivity is important no matter the technique. With a decent rod I can tell if a blade on an inline spinner is spinning. All sorts of things. I think sensitivity in any technique is something you learn to appreciate through practice, then it's tough to go back.
KU_Bassmaster. reply :
I agree. IMO no need to spend big money on a crankbait rod
=Matt 5.0= reply :
I fish cranks on a $29 Ugly Stick Lite....
Finesse worms go on the Carrot Stick tho. 
.dsaavedra. reply :
QuoteI like sensitivity when crankbait fishing. I know a lot of people like soft fiberglass rods. Maybe they are best. But I usually fish crankbaits on my graphite M/F spinning rods, and occassionally baitcasters. I like the distinct feedback I get with a sensitive graphite rod. I can immediately tell if something has changed. I can feel the normal vibration of the lure. I've gotten to where I can tell I've picked up a piece of grass or something by the change in vibration. I can tell easier when I've bumped into something, and can distinctly tell what sort of botton the lure is bopping over.I think sensitivity is important no matter the technique. With a decent rod I can tell if a blade on an inline spinner is spinning. All sorts of things. I think sensitivity in any technique is something you learn to appreciate through practice, then it's tough to go back.
i TOTALLY agree with micro on this one. with crankbait rods i need my sensativity so i can feel what the crank is doing down there. i can feel if i get some weeds stuck on it and the action stops, then i know that i can just burn the lure back in instead of continuing fishing it when i dont know its not working. with spinnerbaits i can feel the blades moving, and if some weeds get on em then they will stop and i can feel it. sensativity is great in all situations, but there is no reason to pay over 150 for a cranking/spinnerbait rod.
The Next KVD reply :
I think your crazy if you can't feel your lure. for crankbaits you need to feel the wooble, feel what kindaof cover ur bumping ect. Spinnerbait, I need to feel the blades moving. Jerkbait, I don't use any so yea. If you can't feel what your lure is doing you can't paint a mental picture of what is going on around the lure.
Jake. reply :
The only technique I don't think you need sensitivity for is topwater fishing. JMHO
LakeAnnaBasser reply :
QuoteI think your crazy if you can't feel your lure. for crankbaits you need to feel the wooble, feel what kindaof cover ur bumping ect. Spinnerbait, I need to feel the blades moving. Jerkbait, I don't use any so yea. If you can't feel what your lure is doing you can't paint a mental picture of what is going on around the lure.
x2 to that. I used to have an older fiberglass crankbait rod. It had no sensitivity at all. And because of that I couldnt feel the structure that my bait was hitting causing a snag. With a more sensitive rod you feel the crankbait hit the structure then you stop reeling and the bait floats free.
cart7t reply :
The average $75-125 rod is perfectly acceptable for fishing crankbaits, spinnerbaits, buzz baits, chatterbaits or jerkbaits. The quality of rods in that category these days is more than good enough to feel anything your bait is doing. I have one high sensitivity rod I use for jerkbaits in the late winter/very early spring. At that time of the year, fish will take the bait so lightly that you'll barely feel a hit and unless you're watching your line, you'll miss the fish. That's when a very sensitive rod works for me.
sal669 reply :
All of the above.
For the guys who think you need sensitivity, I'll say YES. But, you get plenty of it with a Shimano Clarus or Compre, Fenwick Eagle GT or HMX , All Star Classic, Berkley Series One, or a middle of the road BPS or Cabelas for that matter. All of them are under $100.
If you can't feel what your lure is doing in the water while using one of the above rods, you have to have a problem with your feeling/ nerv terminations in your hands. By using a certain rod/reel combo for the same task ALL THE TIME, you develop a feel for it, you start feeling your lure. You don't need to be hit with a 2x4 anytime your lure hits an obstacle in the water, you should learn how YOUR ROD feels when it hits an obstacle. Go out and spend a couple minutes knocking some wood,rock or weeds in shallow water so you can KNOW when you are gonna hit it, but close your eyes and concentrate on the FEEL.
Back to the original question: NO, you don't need to rob a bank to successfully fish those techniques: almost any modern graphite (or some good composite) rod has plenty of sensitivity for it.
5bass reply :
I think that the more you fish the moving baits, especially crankbaits, the more you don't need a real sensitive rod. Once you've past a certain point, you just know whats what. I crank with fiberglass rods and have been doing so for a long time....I can feel baits just fine on my glass rods and I know exactly what my bait is doing at all times.
I'm about to pick up a Dobyns crankbait rod next week to see what the fuss is all about. Other than weight, I dont feel like it will improve my crankbaitin' that much, if at all.
I could be wrong....we'll see.
guest reply :
The only "High End" rod I own is a wonderful gift, a spiral wrapped rod
from Alpster, I use it all the time .WHaving stated that any of these rods all in med /fast work well on every application for bass;
Fenwicks' HMX,GT AllStars Classics and Team IM 10's. BPS Extremes and the Cabelas Fish Eagle II, IM 6 and IM 7's used them all so I can speak from experience, I only use the Fenwicks and the All Stars now, not saying they are better or worse but my own taste in rods.
I do not know why anyone would need a "sensitive" rods for anything moving with trebels, I have Neuropathy in all my fingers from diabetes and I have never yet missed a fish due to lack of sensivitiy
I have no experience with high end rods, but I am expeienced in mid range and I think the special rod for special technique thing is a bit overplayed
bass wrangler569 reply :
The only application I don't think requires a sensitive rod is topwater fishing. When I'm fishing spinnerbaits and crankbaits, I want to feel what kind of cover I'm moving through. Sensitive doesn't always mean expensive, like others said, there are plenty of sensitive rods in the $75-150 range.
surfer reply :
My vote is for $120 sensitive. My hands are not as well trained as the more experienced on this board an i enjoy feeling the exact wobble of the lure. I can tell what type of weed I bumped into and I can feel sand, mud, branch, stump, picked up weed while still vibrating correctly, picked up tiny leaf while still vibrating correctly, and of coarse a bite.
ba7ss3in reply :
I have no experience with high end rods, but I am expeienced in mid range and I think the special rod for special technique thing is a bit overplayed
I have to agree here,except for maybe drop shotting but you still don't have to brake the bank
guest reply :
QuoteI have no experience with high end rods, but I am expeienced in mid range and I think the special rod for special technique thing is a bit overplayedI have to agree here,except for maybe drop shotting but you still don't have to brake the bank
Sorry I should have stated I never drop shot, si I am not qualified to say all techniques ,thanks for pointing that out 8-)
Alpster reply :
I have a 7' moderate action Lamiglas fiberglass rod, just like the one I wrapped for Muddy. I also use it for slow rolling spinnerbaits in deep water. I can feel every turn of the blade. Just because it isn't 'super sensitive' doesn't mean you can't feel anything. It's all relative. I'm not very good at cranking. I use a glass rod for crank baits because I tend to miss a lot of fish with my graphite rods. If you fish a lot of soft plastics, you can appreciate a real sensitive rod. JMHO
Ronnie
Mike-in-WV reply :
Muddy has the right attitude here and I agree with him 100 percent. You don't need to go crazy spending $100.00-$200.00 for a fishing rod to "feel" the lure. I want to feel the fish messing with it and I can do that with most rods costing way less than what some of you call a cheap rod! Feeling spinners and a weed can be done also on cheap rods. I have fished with high end rods and reels and much lower than most of you talk about in Flyrods, spinning rods , casting and ultralights and never had a problem feeling or landing a fish, big or small.
Yes, an expensive sensitive rod is great but not necessarie by any stretch of the imagination. To many other fishing gadgets I can spend that money on, like sesitive lures Mike
5bass reply :
Now on my rods I use for jigs, worms, trick sticks etc....sensitvity is a must. Thats where my Kistler and Loomis rods come in....if there's a bass breathing on my bait, I know it.
guest reply :
I can't say I " Have the right attitude" because I do not have experience with high end gear. What I am stating is I fish sucessfully with what I use. There are fellas here that have stuff that is beautiful, and some never sees the water, as I have discovered that some enjoy the collecting of tackle also. What each finds enjoyable is up to them, otherwise why would they do it? So wehat I am staying I have found equipment I like and just for today I see no need to jump brands or upgrade, what ever that means ;D
roadwarrior reply :
Almost all your fishing can be done with one rod, spinning or baitcasting. I would suggest Medium Power/ Fast Action. This rod is especially suited for single hook lures.
Two rods are better. The second would be Medium or Medium Heavy Power with a soft tip. This is the rod for ALL treble hook lures.
After that, it's all about "want" and there is a lot to choose from. Application and your perception of sensitivity is VERY subjective. I fish high-end, technique specific rods because I enjoy collecting equipment that I consider "perfect" for a specific purpose. I do NOT "need" these rods to "catch" fish, but my "fishing" is more fun!
8-)
dodgeguy reply :
QuoteAlmost all your fishing can be done with one rod, spinning or baitcasting. I would suggest Medium Power/ Fast Action. This rod is especially suited for single hook lures.Two rods are better. The second would be Medium or Medium Heavy Power with a soft tip. This is the rod for ALL treble hook lures.
After that, it's all about "want" and there is a lot to choose from. Application and your perception of sensitivity is VERY subjective. I fish high-end, technique specific rods because I enjoy collecting equipment that I consider "perfect" for a specific purpose. I do NOT "need" these rods to "catch" fish, but my "fishing" is more fun!
8-)
that's one of the smartest posts i've ever seen on any forum!!!i would add that imho sensitivity is of major importance at all times.i would add that what line you use has as much to do with it if not more than the rod.stretchy lines are not sensitive.i think feeling exactly what your spinnerbait blades are doing is important.you can feel when a bass is behind the bait by the change in the blades.you are better prepared for the strike.you can have a forgiving combo that is still sensitive so as not to rip out hooks.
surfer reply :
Quoteyou can feel when a bass is behind the bait by the change in the blades.you are better prepared for the strike.
Wow. I hope my skills reach that level one day.
guest reply :
So does he
just bustin em DG :
Raul reply :
QuoteWhat are your thoughts on this?It seems to me that for topwaters, spinnerbaits, buzz baits, crankbaits, and jerk baits, that it doesn't make sense to pay big money for ultra sensitive rod blanks, since the way you fish these baits (or more importantly, the way bass hit these baits), sensitivity isn't an issue.
I ask because I am in the market for a nice rod to use for a variety of these techniques. As I was looking through G. Loomis' line, I noticed that super sensitive IMX or GLX isn't offered in the Spinnerbait or Crankbait line (and they are MUCH cheaper, too).
Now, for worms and jigs, sensitivity is a big concern.
Any thoughts on this?
Like in everything ......... it depends greatly on where and what you pretend to fish, I agree that with topwaters, buzzbaits and jerkbaits rod sensitivity isn 't that important, after all they either run on top or very shallow, but crankbaits ( specially lipped ones ) and spinnerbaits I don 't share that opinon.
True you don 't need that great sensitivity when you don 't fish a lot of cover but swimming a crank or spinnerbait maintaining contact with the cover in a place like my home lake and many other lakes I fish and not hanging up without having good rod sensitivity can be a very difficult task to accomplish.
jwo1124 reply :
WOW...is all I can say after reading RW's post/ I'd have to say that his posts are almost always right on the money and full of wisdom. Almost any bass fishign site you go to they will say that the best rod for bass fishing is a Medium power spinning or casting rod. That's pretty much all you really need to fish almost any lure(within the medium power lure ratings of course) not only satisfactory, but compentently.
For some, like RW said, they like knowing they have the right tool for any job. Having the confidence that a certain rod/reel is the 100% best choice for fishing a certain lure is important to some people depending on your level of commitment to the sport. For me, I've always been a sort of in the middle, average, C+ kind of guy. I get by sufficiently, but never focus on going over the top or above and beyond.
For some guys, buying an abundance of tackle makes fishing more enjoyable, for other's they feel they need it to catch the most fish and get the most out of their time on the water, others think it will make them better, other's find confidence in it...
But, as the wise Road Warrior said, it is a matter of "need" vs. "want" after the first two rod set ups he mentioned. You can probably fish a good 75% of lures in 75% of the areas of the body of water you'll be fishing. It's that last 25% that drives the bait monkey... ;D
Think about it, with a M/F you will be able to fish the good majority of all soft plastics, jigs, spinnerbaits, and buzzbaits effectively. You can also fish, cranks, jerkbaits, and topwaters with this one rod too. It would be best to have a moderate action or soft tip, but you dont need it. It's the simple, simple vs. complex complexity. Do you need a rod for each and every line size? Do you need a rod set up for evry type of soft plastic, or three different rods with the same spinnerbait but different color? Some say yes, some say no, some say it may make a difference...it all comes down to personal preference. No one person's is better than the others.
If you can have a rewarding enjoyable bas fishing experience with only using two different multi purpose rods, good. If you can;t, go out and burn that credit card until you feel satisfied...
I am trying to live the simple life and make the most out of moderation. I think I will consider what RW said, and stick to the basics, becauses that's where the liuon's share of success comes from. The small tweaks here and there do make a difference, but usually only a small one.
Mh/F 10-14# line ___
MH/M 10-12# line___l------These will do the trick in most bass fishing situations. Some times having a lighter rod with lighter line would be pmore preferable and some times having a heavier rod with heavier line will be better, but some time you have to compramise...Add a ML/F with 6-8# line and you have the perfect bass fishing rod reel combo trinity.
I don't know how my post went from rod sensativity to how many rods are needed...I think I got sidetracked by RW's post.
ABC123 reply :
QuoteWhat are your thoughts on this?It seems to me that for topwaters, spinnerbaits, buzz baits, crankbaits, and jerk baits, that it doesn't make sense to pay big money for ultra sensitive rod blanks, since the way you fish these baits (or more importantly, the way bass hit these baits), sensitivity isn't an issue.
I ask because I am in the market for a nice rod to use for a variety of these techniques. As I was looking through G. Loomis' line, I noticed that super sensitive IMX or GLX isn't offered in the Spinnerbait or Crankbait line (and they are MUCH cheaper, too).
Now, for worms and jigs, sensitivity is a big concern.
Any thoughts on this?
The reason why Loomis does not offer IMX/GLX in Crankbait rods is becouse, the materials used to make the crankbait rods, are not the same. Crankbait rods are a special blend to give it the proper balance of light weight and flexability, while still being sensitive. The reason why they don't make the spinnerbait rods in GLX is becouse of demand. If you notice, there are quite a few rods that are IMX, but not GLX, in certain lengths. A lot of the technique specific blends, don't have an IMX, just a GLX, upgrade. Mossyback is one example. Bronzeback is another. So is the Walleye series.
RoLo reply :
Sensitivity is not the sole province of the rod blank.
A high-modulus blank using streeetchy monofilament line,
will have less sensitivity than an intermediate modulus blank
using braided polyethylene. Fishermen seem to forget that.
Roger
ABC123 reply :
QuoteSensitivity is not the sole province of the rod blank.
A high-modulus blank using streeetchy monofilament line,
will have less sensitivity than an intermediate modulus blank
using braided polyethylene. Fishermen seem to forget that.
Roger
A rod can only transfer what the line is sending, but then again, a more sensitive rod can better transfer what the line is sending.
With the popularity of Fluoro and braid, the need for rod sensitivity has gone down a little, there is still nothing, that I have tried, that compares to the feeling of braided line on a GLX or IMX rod.
vintagerod reply :
I love this forum!! This is why I spend my time here and not Tackle Tour.
I learned a lot from the discussions, and there were some excellent points made. Thank you!
And many thanks to Road Warrior. His comments helped me focus on what's truly important. The logic of one rod for single hook lures and one rod for trebles is quite appealing.
Fishing is a simple pleasure. Perhaps, at least for me, various rods for various techniques only complicates this sublime simplicity. Spending time using a variety of lures and techniques on your favorite rod and reel combo seems like an excellent way to learn the nuances of the sport.
roadwarrior reply :
All the rod manufacturers have a rod in their line-up that will meet the single hook criteria. The emphasis here is a firm tip.
For your treble hook rod, the differences are more subtle. The traditional approach is a rod with Moderate Action. However, for an all-around treble hook rod, most fisherman need a compromise that allows better control for certain applications (jerkbaits and topwater).
My specific recommendation for this second rod is the St. Croix Avid AC66MF. Although I generally prefer 7', 6 1/2' makes this rod easy to maneuver without sacrificing much casting distance. The rod is rated Fast Action, but has a soft tip which works well with crankbaits and still allows good control for fishing topwater lures and jerkbaits. I paid full-bore retail ($150 or $160), but if you can find it on close-out, it should be either side of $100. This is THE ROD that I consider my all-around rig for "moving" lures. The tip is too soft for jigs and plastics.
8-)
guest reply :
The emphasis here is a firm tip.
flechero reply :
QuoteSensitivity is not the sole province of the rod blank.
A high-modulus blank using streeetchy monofilament line,
will have less sensitivity than an intermediate modulus blank
using braided polyethylene. Fishermen seem to forget that.
Roger
Roger, you are right on, except for the last line... most of us don't forget about braid, we just don't use it. The fact that many of us don't use braid is the very reason a good/well designed blank is so desirable.
If braided line was the perfect solution, we would all use it exclusively... regular guys, tournament guys, pros, guides, etc.
While braid has some great qualities, it's not the answer for all of us.
____________________________________________________
and to stay on topic, I also think rod sensitivity is overrated for most of the moving bait techniques.
Tokyo Tony reply :
Good thread
One thing I'd like to mention that has nothing to do with the effectiveness of a very sensitive rod for certain techniques is the pleasure of fighting a fish on a very lightweight, sensitive rod. There's nothing like fighting a fish on a high-quality rod (and I haven't even tried the upper-upper end ones) - you can feel every little shake of its head and you can almost visualize exactly how the fish is reacting. Love it ;D
vintagerod reply :
QuoteMy specific recommendation for this second rod is the St. Croix Avid AC66MF. Although I generally prefer 7', 6 1/2' makes this rod easy to maneuver without sacrificing much casting distance. The rod is rated Fast Action, but has a soft tip which works well with crankbaits and still allows good control for fishing topwater lures and jerkbaits.
I noticed St. Croix now makes a line of Crankbait rods in their Avid series. I think the equivalent to the AC66MF would be their AVC66MM. I'm wondering if this new rod would be the "ideal" treble hook rod. It seems very tempting...
bassgeneral reply :
One point I would like to make is if you're a tourny fisherman a sensitive rod in most cases means a lighter rod and after a couple thousand casts I perfer the sensitive lighter rod.
roadwarrior reply :
QuoteQuoteMy specific recommendation for this second rod is the St. Croix Avid AC66MF. Although I generally prefer 7', 6 1/2' makes this rod easy to maneuver without sacrificing much casting distance. The rod is rated Fast Action, but has a soft tip which works well with crankbaits and still allows good control for fishing topwater lures and jerkbaits.
I noticed St. Croix now makes a line of Crankbait rods in their Avid series. I think the equivalent to the AC66MF would be their AVC66MM. I'm wondering if this new rod would be the "ideal" treble hook rod. It seems very tempting...
Yes!
I suspect this would be an ideal rod for treble hooks.
8-)
flechero reply :
QuoteThe reason why Loomis does not offer IMX/GLX in Crankbait rods is becouse, the materials used to make the crankbait rods, are not the same. Crankbait rods are a special blend to give it the proper balance of light weight and flexability, while still being sensitive.
This is incorrect....
The reason you don't have IMX or GLX crankbait rods is that the fiber has such a high strength to weight ratio that you would have to make the blank with paper thin walls to slow the action enough to be considered a "crankbait rod" and that would make it to fragile to actually use. By using a more limber material they get the desired action with a suitable wall thickness that makes it acceptably durable.
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