Non Wood Bunk Boards 2024
Bluebasser86 reply :
Has anyone ever tried these?
http://www.ultimatebunkboards.com/gpage.html
My trailer needs new boards and it seems like I have to replace them every year and I'm getting tired of it. These seem like a good idea but just thought I'd see if anyone has tried them. I like the sound of never having to replace my boards again.
Long Mike reply :
I haven't tried them, but the next time I replace my bunks I'm going with those. They appear to be leaps ahead of the slick plastic ones that are guaranteed to dump your boat on the ramp if you are not careful.
scrutch reply :
Looks like they're kinda cool, but they do have a warning to not unhook your boat before launching, and always hook your boat after recovery before pulling up the ramp. Sounds like they get pretty slippery when wet. I too am looking for something better.
Fishing Rhino reply :
I don't unhook until the trailer wheels are in the water. When loading the hook is connected and winched up tight before pulling up the ramp. Doesn't matter if I'm alone, or with a buddy. The guys I fish with do the same.
scrutch reply :
If I have help, I unhook before I back down the ramp. The bunks are dry and don't slip. When loading, I always hook up before pulling up the ramp. Wet bunks are more likely to slip.
Bluebasser86 reply :
As long as they're dry it shouldn't be a problem it doesn't sound like. I usually don't unhook before it's in the water because all the weight is in the back of my aluminum boat and I get pretty worried because the nose bounces a lot if it's unhooked. It only takes a couple seconds to unhook the front, a lot less time than it takes to find enough people to pick it up and put it back on the trailer.
Fishes in trees reply :
I replaced the old boards on my trailer with the products from ultimate bunk boards. (poly-styrene I think, some kind of plastic) They work ok.
I think they are worth the investment.
reo reply :
IMO, something is wrong if you are replacing your boards every year. Weather permitting I launch a couple times a week from April through November and get MANY years out of the wood boards. I would look a a different wood along with not wrapping the bottom of the boards to allow for drainage. Again, just my opinion....
South FLA reply :
Just be careful, especially on steep ramps, I considered them, but was told by many local saltwater guys that they are too slick! Maybe you could try them on the inside and keep the outside carpeted for friction.
joefish reply :
Got a pair in my garage right now. Have not gotten them installed yet. I always get in water before unhooking from trailer and hook back before pulling out. Hope they are as advertised.
tstone reply :
I just put new bunks on my trailer, but when it comes time to replace them again I'm going to give these a look.
CHRGD reply :
I have these boards on my aluminum boat, and they have worked out well. Mine are not as slick as I thought they would be dry. But once wet, they will dump your boat quick. They did scuff up some, but seem to be very durable. I would not hesitate to put another set on if needed.
joefish reply :
Finally got them installed on my Trailer, Not sure i like them very well. When relaoding boat on trailer the boat slides back if you don't leave in gear and fast idle while hooking the bow strap. I fish solo most of the time and this is a PIA to hook up then go back and shut down motor.
Also have some bowing in the boards and boat rest on three points rather than entire bunk board.
I would not buy them again.
Jim Mac reply :
I'm thinking of buying the Ultimate bunk boards for my flat bottom jon boat. Do the edges need to be rounded off, or are they good to go as they are? My plan is to mount them flat on the top of my trailer frame, with a 2X4 underneath for extra strength. I would bolt thru the boards and trailer frame, and would not use any brackets. Does this sound OK? Thanks.
joefish reply :
I took them off my trailer, way too slick plus they were very flimsy and bowed bad. Might be OK on a john boat that is not heavy as a bass boat.
Scott F reply :
On 3/23/2012 at 8:10 AM, Bluebasser86 said:Has anyone ever tried these?
http://www.ultimatebunkboards.com/gpage.html
My trailer needs new boards and it seems like I have to replace them every year and I'm getting tired of it. These seem like a good idea but just thought I'd see if anyone has tried them. I like the sound of never having to replace my boards again.
Replace them every year? I've had my boat 25 years and have not replaced the bunks yet. What's the difference between the Ultimate Bunk Boards and the plastic lumber used in decking which is about half the price?
Jim Mac reply :
The decking needs to be installed on 12" to 16" centers.
Bluebasser86 reply :
On 8/5/2013 at 8:03 AM, Scott F said:Replace them every year? I've had my boat 25 years and have not replaced the bunks yet. What's the difference between the Ultimate Bunk Boards and the plastic lumber used in decking which is about half the price?
I fish a lot, my boards get wet and dry out a lot. Plus I fish in the scorching heat we get in the summer, the below freezing temps we get in the winter, drag my boat down some nasty dirt roads and through snow and road chemicals during the winter. Plus I'm a tightwad when it comes to stuff like that I guess so I'd use spare 2x4's from job sites when I was doing construction, probably not the best boards to use for a boat trailer but they saved me from having to buy new ones. I've had a couple get broken by what I'm guessing was people climbing on my trailer in the parking lots (not broken when I parked the truck, broken when I got back to the ramp).
As for the difference, I'm not 100% but I believe the Bunk Boards are more durable than the plastic lumber. I know I've been very impressed with them so far and they're showing very little signs of wear after 2 solid years of use. They were worth it from what I've seen so far and come with a lifetime warranty. That plastic decking might support the weight of a boat, but I wouldn't bet my boat on it. If the UBB break and dump my boat on the pavement or highway I can take the issue up with them. If I put deck boards on my trailer and it happens I'm guessing my insurance guy would just laugh at me.
SPEEDBEAD. reply :
Any idea what the shipping cost is?
I've been tossing around the idea for a while now, just never got around to it. Bunks finally starting to show some wear, possibly looking to replace them.
Jim Mac reply :
On 8/6/2013 at 2:00 AM, SPEEDBEAD. said:Any idea what the shipping cost is?
I've been tossing around the idea for a while now, just never got around to it. Bunks finally starting to show some wear, possibly looking to replace them.
The shipping to me here in Wisconsin is $15. That's for two 2X4 bunks. It's right on their website.
Mr_Scrogg reply :
I'm ordering a set of these tonight actually.
I think I'll still keep my carpeted guide ons though.
Koofy Smacker reply :
I looked into them. They do bow a lot more than a typical bunk and are much slicker. I went with a typical 2x4, bought the carpet at Cabelas and sent myself on an afternoon long project in the basement cutting and carpeting them. Next time I went to the lake it took me about half an hour to pull the old boards off and put the new ones on. 2 years going and its like new. I did however urethane the ends of the boards with 3 coats to stop massive water absorption. I think in total it cost me around 60 bucks all said and done. Plus if your trailer is good you can reuse the stainless bolts and washers which should have come with it
J Francho reply :
Why not use composite boards, and cover them with traditional bunk carpet?
MikeA57 reply :
When I rebuilt my trailer it had roller bunks. I took the rollers out then replaced them with full sized 2"x4" cypress boards. On top of the cypress I laid a layer of the white composite material called bunk slicks. It's held up great so far. This is on a 1956 Holsclaw trailer that was 50+ years old when I rebuilt it and I expect it to last another 50+ years!
MikeA57 reply :
Pic of the bunk slicks...
Mr_Scrogg reply :
One of the reasons John is that the carpet is one of the main transports for Zebra Mussels. One of the lakes here its semi private, and the Guard Shack Nazi will spray Clorox-Water everywhere, and give you the 3rd degree while she's doing it. Lol
J Francho reply :
The bunks only need to dry out to get rid of the zebes. I'm also not buying it that a quick dip to launch and a retrieve is a major source of contamination. Doesn't make much sense. Someone comes near my boat with a bucket of chemicals, they are going to have a problem. Pretty much all the lakes around here have zebes and quagga mussels, so it's not a big deal. They love to blame boaters on the transportation of these things...nevermind that all the bodies of water up here are interconnected via canals.
Mr_Scrogg reply :
Completely understand that John. Not to mention the birds and such that travel from body of water to body of water.
Many of the smaller lakes around me vary in water levels throughout the year. Earlier this year one lake was way low and it was advised not to launch. The dock was out of the water, and I even couldn't navigate around parts in my kayak without dragging. Now, It's blown out, flooded like I've never seen before.
When the lake is on the lower side, launching alone is kinda challenging. I distinctly remember having a issue pushing off my Lowe the first time cause I couldn't dip the carpet deep enough to get it to slide of easier. I hope this would remedy that. As well as retrieving, I would feel more comfortable just being able to idle up to the stop, and hook up than having to gun the throttle up.
I plan on putting it through the paces and posting up my views soon.
Jim Mac reply :
On 8/13/2013 at 6:29 AM, Mr_Scrogg said:Completely understand that John. Not to mention the birds and such that travel from body of water to body of water.
Many of the smaller lakes around me vary in water levels throughout the year. Earlier this year one lake was way low and it was advised not to launch. The dock was out of the water, and I even couldn't navigate around parts in my kayak without dragging. Now, It's blown out, flooded like I've never seen before.
When the lake is on the lower side, launching alone is kinda challenging. I distinctly remember having a issue pushing off my Lowe the first time cause I couldn't dip the carpet deep enough to get it to slide of easier. I hope this would remedy that. As well as retrieving, I would feel more comfortable just being able to idle up to the stop, and hook up than having to gun the throttle up.
I plan on putting it through the paces and posting up my views soon.
Did you buy the 2X4 or 2X6 boards? How did you install them? Countersunk carriage bolts or something else? Thanks.
Traveler2586 reply :
On 8/5/2013 at 5:32 AM, joefish said:I took them off my trailer, way too slick plus they were very flimsy and bowed bad. Might be OK on a john boat that is not heavy as a bass boat.
X2,
I looked at this material for my trailer and gave up on the idea after working with HDP on other projects.
High-Density Polyethylene do not offer the same support as PT wood per sq foot. I would NOT install them on a heavy Bass Boat trailer, the only support you'll get is where the up-rights are. Using a 2X6, the board between the up-rights is like a rubber band. They may be alright on lighter boats but not the bigger glass boats.
The company even states they SPECIALIZE IN SMALL BOAT TRAILERS, PWC'S & BOAT LIFTS.
Mr_Scrogg reply :
I got the 8' 2x4s. I will be reusing my Stainless Lag Bolts per the instructions.
I will agree there is some bow in them, But being a tin boat owner, I'm more than confident in it's support for my rig.
Ya'll are correct in your assumptions that a heavier glass rig would be too much weight for them. I wouldn't even think about them for a 18' or longer glass boat. But then again, if I had a glass boat, then the Pressure Treated wood wouldn't be a issue.
I accidently redid my bunks with pressure treated, then I learned about the chemicals used to treat wood and their reactivity with Aluminum.
Didn't know any better. But now I do and I'll have easier launching and recovery too 
Traveler2586 reply :
I would suggest that you insure your boat-to-trailer tie downs are in good shape as the lack of friction from the bunks will place extra stress on your tie downs while towing the boat. I would think your boat will slide in all XY directions with the movement of the trailer.
What about covering the HDP with bunk carpet? It would be rot free and have the standard friction.
SPEEDBEAD. reply :
On 8/14/2013 at 12:52 AM, Traveler2586 said:
What about covering the HDP with bunk carpet? It would be rot free and have the standard friction.
That doesn't address the strength issue though.
I have a 16ft Tracker Jon boat. Extra decking, three batteries, two trolling motors. The lack of strength mentioned here is concerning to me now.
Decisions, decisions....
Jim Mac reply :
On 8/14/2013 at 12:52 AM, Traveler2586 said:
What about covering the HDP with bunk carpet? It would be rot free and have the standard friction.
That would defeat the purpose of the Ultimate bunk boards, which is ease of launching and loading back up.
J Francho reply :
OK, what is so hard about launching and loading? I dip the stern in, fire up, and back off the trailer, if I'm alone. If I have a partner, then I simply back in a little further and they either handle the ropes, or stay on the trolling motor. When I'm done, I simply drive on. I've done the same with everything from open bow runabouts to tiller deep-v boats, to aluminum and glass bass boats. I'm not buying into the ease of launch - I actually think this would make it more difficult, and almost require side guide on rails.
Blue, pony up for some pressure treated and fresh carpet. Make sure you get the carpet intended for this. Should last you years.
salmicropterus reply :
On 8/10/2013 at 3:44 AM, J Francho said:Why not use composite boards, and cover them with traditional bunk carpet?
We installed some of these. on bass boat trailers last year. Our customers were not happy with the overall experience. We had some scratched bottoms and the overall slippery nature worried people. We did exactly what J Francho said to solve the issue.
Jim Mac reply :
JFrancho, the problem for me is I fish a couple lakes that have very shallow launch sites, and I normally fish alone. My boat will not float off or be pushed off easily. And the second problem is my bad back.
Traveler2586 reply :
On 8/15/2013 at 3:52 AM, Jim Mac said:JFrancho, the problem for me is I fish a couple lakes that have very shallow launch sites, and I normally fish alone. My boat will not float off or be pushed off easily. And the second problem is my bad back.
Then try the HDP; or use roller bunks, they provide better support to the boat hull.
J Francho reply :
On 8/15/2013 at 3:52 AM, Jim Mac said:JFrancho, the problem for me is I fish a couple lakes that have very shallow launch sites, and I normally fish alone. My boat will not float off or be pushed off easily. And the second problem is my bad back.
This is totally 'nother set of issues than the OP. I'd get in touch with the guy in post #25, and see how he put his trailer together. Looks like counter sunk bolts in the plastic to attach them to the wooden bunks.
http://www.bassresource.com/bass-fishing-forums/topic/99399-non-wood-bunk-boards/?p=1348244
Jim Mac reply :
On 8/15/2013 at 4:04 AM, Traveler2586 said:Then try the HDP; or use roller bunks, they provide better support to the boat hull.
My trailer currently has roller bunks on it.
J Francho reply :
Rollers are a pain. Jim, does your jon have an outboard? I'd put carpeted bunks on the trailer, and literally drive the boat off. Get it in the water to the point the water pickups are submerged, fire her up, and gently back it off. That has worked for just about every boat I've owned. Loading up, I submerge half the bunks, drive on, and crank it up. You may have to back the trailer a bit as you wind her on, depending on how much the boat weighs, and what your back can handle.
flicker1 reply :
Another option to the pressure treated wood might be using a microlam. You would probably have to rip it to the right width but they are incredibly strong and with the glue they use they should last a long time too.
RoachDad reply :
On 3/23/2012 at 8:10 AM, Bluebasser86 said:My trailer needs new boards and it seems like I have to replace them every year and I'm getting tired of it.
Wowzers! I have a 1985 boat and trailer. Last year I finally took the carpet off the bunks and put on plastic covers. I have never replaced the bunks.
What are you experiencing that makes you replace the bunks? Are you talking about taking the boards off and putting on new ones?
Jim Mac reply :
On 8/15/2013 at 9:36 PM, J Francho said:Rollers are a pain. Jim, does your jon have an outboard? I'd put carpeted bunks on the trailer, and literally drive the boat off. Get it in the water to the point the water pickups are submerged, fire her up, and gently back it off. That has worked for just about every boat I've owned. Loading up, I submerge half the bunks, drive on, and crank it up. You may have to back the trailer a bit as you wind her on, depending on how much the boat weighs, and what your back can handle.
No outboard. Electric only.
J Francho reply :
I think the wood with the slip'n slide on top, shown earlier might be the best setup, then. Good luck, and post some picss if you get something rigged.
Jim Mac reply :
On 8/16/2013 at 1:03 AM, J Francho said:I think the wood with the slip'n slide on top, shown earlier might be the best setup, then. Good luck, and post some picss if you get something rigged.
Thanks. I sent Mike a PM, but haven't heard back yet. I'm wondering what product he used.
Bluebasser86 reply :
On 8/16/2013 at 12:50 AM, RoachDad said:Wowzers! I have a 1985 boat and trailer. Last year I finally took the carpet off the bunks and put on plastic covers. I have never replaced the bunks.
What are you experiencing that makes you replace the bunks? Are you talking about taking the boards off and putting on new ones?
They were breaking loading the boat on, just rotten. One of the lakes I fish the ramp is right next to the kids pond and parents turn their kids loose to run wild in the parking lot and I'm assuming an empty boat trailer must look like a jungle gym because I've had bunks get broken while I was on the lake (assuming from people climbing on my trailer). Like I said I fish a lot and in 100+ degree temps in the summer to below freezing temps in the winter and normally go at least 3 days a week. That's a lot of getting wet and drying out, baking and freezing. I never bought 2x4's specifically for my trailer, I used leftovers from job sites I was working at, so that probably had something to do with the breakage. However I've been very happy with the UBB after 2 years of use and would not hesitate to buy another set if I bought another boat.
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