another site
I've just been poking along and taking my time with my all electric jon boat project. The only thing I really have left is to install the 2ea 3 bank Dual Pro chargers (on order), Buy 6 batteries (ouch!), install a bilge pump, glue down the front deck carpet and wire the 2 big foot switches and it should be ready to roll provided I wired it all right LOL.
Just in case you interested I have 3ea 82lb thrust Motor Guides (total of 246lbs of thrust arrgh!!) A humminbird 987SI and I built a special bracket that I thought was pretty neat for the GPS puck. A 120qt ice chest with a special hatch in the lid along with a Longer life aereator for a livewell.
Here is the little website I made to show the progress of the boat. Scroll down for the newer pictures.
www.tritonmike.com/boat.html
T Mike
Watch out Varner hawgs. That's an awesome rig you got there.
I will be starting my Jon boat coversion tomrrow. I finally got some descent weather and some free time. I am hoping to finish it by the middle of March. I'll be sure to post some pics along the way.
AWESOME!!, Nice Boat!!! looks almost like a new brand of tritons!
Looks good man.Can I borrow it sometime? ;D
That is a tight rig! I want to see the wake it will throw, LOL.
I'm starting my conversion soon.
Trition Mike, what is a longer life aereator ? I to have one of those style coolers, they work pretty good!
Awesome!!!
My old 14' V is next Mike. ;D That rig is top-notch! Good job.
dink
Holy cow! You could pull up a skier with that much power ;D
Looks great Mike!
I'll never understand the multiple t/m thing. A boat has a mean off plane speed which for a flat bottom is roughly between 4 and 6 mph. This is the max speed that can be reached before going on plane. My boat has a mean speed of 4.6 mph and I know I get that from my T/M according to gps. I cannot go any faster before breaking plane which the math says would be about 14-18 mph depending on weight. Any more power I add once I have achieved 4.6 mph is just wasted power because all though it may seem like I'm going faster, I am not. I'm still going 4.6mph but I'm pushing alot more water unless it's enough power to reach plane.
Plus, 2 props rotating in the same direction, side by side creates prop wash and cavitation reducing each motors efficiency. If there is somthing to running 2 t/m's, when are they going to come out with directional props?
I know that 2 outboards will get you a little more speed but only when on plane. 2 engines essentially allows you to run them at a much lower rpm and achieve the same speed, saving on wear and tear. It also is an offshore safety factor to have an extra motor. I can't see this applying to t/m's, especially when both props are turning in the same direction.
Sorry for the off-topic, the pic got me on it again.
Boat came out awesome! Do you have an overall weight for the finished product? You can go to a gravel yard and ask if you can pull on the scale to find out. My complete mod added 104 pounds to my boat. Not bad at all.
Sweeeet Mike!
good looking job, one tiny question. how are u plugging in your bow mount? what type of plug are u looking for?i am looking for something that will take 6 ga wire. does anyone make one?
Lowbudgethookers. Randall Kirkpatrick my electric boat genius says anything more than 2 motors on the back is not gaining you much in the form of speed. If your going 4.6 with one T motor maybe you can get 6 with 2???? I agree there is diminishing returns until you can get the boat up on plane. Worst case sceneario I have a Trolling motor to sell. Best case scenario I'll be going faster??
hipster, The plug that I have is a marineco plug. The wire is 8 gauge that connects to it tho. Thats the best I could find. Any marine dealer can order it for you.
Mike
Mike- my main reason for investigating this is because I was looking at the 82lb thrust motors for speed but after reading, I realize I'm already going as fast as I can so why add the weight of another battery (24v system)
With this in mind, would removing all the extra batts and t/m reduce the weight enough to make up for any thrust that was lost by removing it.
In other words
1 motor, 2 batts, say 1000 pounds and 5.5 mph
2 motors, 4 batts, say 1200 still so close to 5.5 that I couldn't be able to justify the cost on 2 batts and another motor.
If I'm way off, please say so, this is all self education stuff from me. JMO.
Trying to learn so I'm asking guys that use this heavy system of thrust.' My opinion is that first of all we are talking about 1 or 2 mph at most. Another $4-600 for 1 or 2 mph seems crazy to me. It would seem that 1 or 2 mph could be just as easily gained by removing a little weight i.e, if you're gonna do compartments and full decking, use fiberglass. You could then also use mold to make same set-up for anyone with same hull as you and make some quick easy money. First one takes some time but they knock right out after you've made a mold.
or
you could use 1/4 inch ply and add strips of chop mat to reinforce even stronger and about 2/3 the weight of 1/2 inch marine grade. That's alot of weight reduced!
Just thoughts.
Low Budget, Trust me I'm not wizard in this. Randall Kirkpatrick of Fish Atlanta is the guy you need to talk with. He has a freakin formula to determine speed with trolling motors LOL. Weight is one thing but width of boat is another. If you have a 12ft boat 36 inch bottom and a 12ft 48 inch bottom the 48 inch bottom will come out on top everytime as far speed is concerned. Thats what Randall tells me. You have more to gain by bottom width than you do about worrying with weight of your boat. Randall just had a sudden emergency (see post in General fishing) so it will probably be a little while before we see him. But Randall is the guy that can answer your questions!!
T Mike
That is just too cool! 8-)
from Motorguide
Every boat hull will have a maximum speed. Here's the formula for estimating the maximum speed for a given hull. Multiply the square root of the length of the hull at the waterline by 1.3. This will give the theoretical maximum speed in knots. Most small boats will max out at 3 to 5 miles per hour. You can push harder, but you will just make more waves, not more speed.
Mine came to 4.6
Low budget, Thats the formula!! I was going on what you said in your post about max speed 4-6mph. I don't have a clue. I just wanna get from point A to B and catch fishies in between ~
T Mike
LBH, i have to ask, im adding floors to my Boat and was going to use 3/8 ply until i cut the first peice, laid it in and walked on it....NOPE...to thin, i was going to get some 1/2" but id like to save weight... WHAT IS CHOP MAT!?
and how is it used to assist in strenght.
Mo tick, I used 1/2 inch myself.
T Mike
T-Mike that boat came out awsome... ive been looking for a 14' jon boat for a few months now... trying to get a "low budget" one, and deck it out like you did. Hah love the 3 trolling motors, great job
Chop mat is fiberglass cloth, comes in sheets. I use chop alot so I have it around but if I were going out to buy it new, I would get "woven" sheets. Those are the 2 styles that raw fiberglass comes in.
You cut some strips about 4" wide and apply to the wood with fiberglass resin. Sloppy but real easy, simply soak it through and brush out the air bubbles. They make a slotted roller for this too but not really necessary to get that perfect for boat floor as it will be carpeted.
Anyway, do 1 strip at a time about every 4-6 inches apart and make a criss cross or diagonal pattern. Try not to leave much resin on finished product. Overkill is not necessary and will add weight. Let it dry and do the other side. Let some strips wrap to the other side for torsional stability. Figure in for material thickness on the edges before you cut, allow an extra 1/4 inch. This is how you would do a plain flat deck. Lots of tricks for glassing multiple surface angles.
A brace can also be applied to the bottom of the deck to the floor of the boat.
Seeing as how you already have the wood and it's no good to you right now, give it a shot.
WOW!! Now thats a jon boat! Great job, one of the best i have ever seen.
well, after i read your post, i did a little research because i couldnt Visualize it. Now i can. basically this method is like putting a "CAST" around the wood. when you lay your strips, / on one side and on the other are they going across the sheet end to end?. did i see right? you used 7/16 ply?
yes, if that's not stiff enough, rough up cured surface with a fine sandpaper, remove all dust and do some strips in opposite direction (from top left to bottom right)
LBH, thanks, thats a Great help, i would have never thought to do that. i dont think it will stiffen 3/8 enough but 7/16 it should.
Tom
You'd be surprised! Especially with footing type braces, 1 or 2.
Mike I am confused on some things. Why are you using three trolling motors (Okay two on the back, I understand the front one ) Wouldn't the back two fight each other?
82lb thrust would throw you out of the boat from off to full on in one turn wouldn't it? lol
Are the 6 batteries for all day use or more for big lakes? I am getting a jon boat for this one lake only, and I love the mod's as far as flooring etc, just curious on these things above.
I have no need for a livewell, so I am not going to worry with this addition.
That's a really nice job, Mike...that accessory on the back deck in the last picture is going to need higher maintenance and become more expensive to own every year, though......
BD, Think of the 2 trolling motors on the back as dual motors. They are locked in place just as you see them. All they do is propel the boat straight forward and I am steering with the front trolling motor. All 3 motors are 24 volts. So I will need 2 batteries PER trolling motor ie 12 volt batteries. THe 6 batteries will run all 3 trolling motors for the day and will be recharged by 2ea 3 bank Dual Pro Chargers.
Yankee_Bassman, Yeah that little package in the last picture was the most expensive mod on the whole boat ~~ He's gonna be fun tho!!
Mike
T_Mike,
The boat looks real good!
LBH,
Thanks for finding that formula! That's one thing I'll be doing tomorrow. LOL!
Mo Tick,
I'm getting ready to drop down to 1/2" from 3/4"!
QuoteBD, Think of the 2 trolling motors on the back as dual motors. They are locked in place just as you see them. All they do is propel the boat straight forward and I am steering with the front trolling motor. All 3 motors are 24 volts. So I will need 2 batteries PER trolling motor ie 12 volt batteries. THe 6 batteries will run all 3 trolling motors for the day and will be recharged by 2ea 3 bank Dual Pro Chargers.Yankee_Bassman, Yeah that little package in the last picture was the most expensive mod on the whole boat ~~ He's gonna be fun tho!!
Mike
Ok this makes sense you locked the t/m down. I thought perhaps you were allowing them to sway from side to side freely.....
I understand the rest.
Thanks.
It turned out great Mike. Now take a Sharpie and write my name on the back seat and it will be perfect. I am thinking about adding a 15W solar panel to mine but I still have to do some research on it.
Nice boat Mike. Have the fisher model of your boat. Yesterday fishing my wiring and trolling motor burnt up literally. Supposed to fish in Lathem today stayed up until 4 in morning to find out some how trolling motor burnt up too. Wish I could find a plan to do this. I have the big foot things for back two minn kota 54 lbs thrust works great but need to know how to wire every thing up front. Had the front graph wired to the trolling motor which was connected back to one of the batteries. Have had situations where the wireing would get so hot that it literally helped melt terminal of battery. Didnt know if there was like some kind of housing you could connect the wires from trolling motor and graph to and it would house like a circuit breaker if it got to hot it would shut off...Any would be appreciated...By the way Mike I live on a two hundred acre lake in Monroe can trade fishing with you for tips..lol..
buzbaitfool, Sounds like your wiring is not big enough to handle the voltage you are putting through the wires. For Trollign motors I would reccomend 6 gauge marine wire. For fish finder it should be a minimum of 22 gauge COPPER wire (if used as an extension)
I would put an inline fuse on the fish finder for sure. 2-4amp should be about right. I haven't gotten my boat rigged up 100% yet so I'm not sure my plan is working until I get the batteries and chargers and everything is hooked up.
Mike
Buzzbait-CHECK GROUND!!
I see this all the time in car audio when people don't put a circuit breaker at the battery. A bad ground causes the live positive side to heat right up and POOF!
You got lucky compared to the audio world, usually that power wire runs the length of the car to the trunk where most amps are kept. The whole car goes up in flames.
Check your ground and use at least 6 gauge before re-installing new unit.
Good Luck
Mike- your boat post sure is helping alot of guys. Well done man.
Should I put fuse on trolling motors also or just you six gauge wire...I had bought 10 gage wire from bass pro shop..looks like the wire that burnt off before was 12gauge..Thanks Ryan
By the way Mike..That boat is impressive..Cant wait to do my boat in the next two weeks for the Stn Mtn touney in two weeks..Hopefully I will not blow up..lol :
I'm re-wiring the inside of an old trolling motor and it looks like the old wire that went to the battery was about 10 GA... Iv'e heard everywhere you should use 6 guage... so why does this one use 10?
OK, I'm going to help you pay for your boat. Use it to mix "The Worlds Largest Pancake" at your local Church then write the whole thing off next years taxes! Huh,huh!
Yeah I might have motor *** but I don't want to talk about it right now.
Great rig! You will have a ball in that thing, and get it in to a lot of places that the rest of us can't. Look forward to seeing your good first fish.
Nice looking boat Mike.
buzzbaitfool12,
You should always use a fuse or circuit breaker. Circuit breaker would be prefered because if you have a problem and it trips, it is easy to reset. Also the 10 gauge may be enough, it really depends on how long the cable run is and the amp draw. I'll get to that in a minute.
hachiesting06,
Again it depends on amp draw and the length of the wire. You can never go to large so 6 gauge is generally a safe bet.
Here is a link to recommended gauge sizes:
http://www.powermastermotorsports.com/charge_wires.html
For 35-50 amps the 10 gauge should be fine up to 16 feet.
i went to bps fri nite and found a tm plug and receptacle that u can buy an adapter for that takes 6 ga wire.it is made by connect pro. now to find some 6ga wire in the right length. i put my breaker on the battery
Hipster, that's not RIGHT at the batt is it? You want a 6-10" lead from the batterty to breaker and then up to TM.
lbh, why do i need the 6-10 in offset? the fello i bought it from said a lot of people put them on the battery
Also, Be darn sure to use MARINE wire and not just regular home depot wire. Big difference in performance and longetivity. You can order Marine wire from any reputable marina.
Mike
Sorry Hipster, I am thinking in reverse lateley. The point I wanted to make was that if it is not right on the battery to keep your lead to less than a foot. That 1 ft wire is live to the breaker if there is a surge.
Some people like to mount the breaker in a more accesable spot so they run a lead from battery to breaker, then from the breaker to the accessory. My point is if you do this, keep it under a foot.