First boat 2024
petes67bird reply :
Hi,
I am having a rough go trying to get my first boat for my dad and I. We need something affordable and decided on getting one of the smaller bass boats. I found a Sun Dolphin Pro 110 for sale with a trailer here in Illinois for 550. I have a few reservations and hoping to get some input. Here are some of my questions I have.
1. The tag states 2 persons total weight 301lbs and total 461lbs with gear, motor etc. All my friends and my dad are large men. All of us are over 6'5" and weight about 240-250 each. Would you opt for a different boat then, maybe a sun dolphin sportsman cause it can hold up to 550, or was the weight restriction on the older 110 just kept low for the coast guard tag?
2. Next question is he does not have a title for the boat or the trailer. He said he can get me a bill of sale from original owner in Wisconsin, but I know Illinois is a pain to get things without a title. Would you just pass on this?
3. Other option is to pick up one of these without a trailer and strap it to the top of my 2015 Subaru Outback on the roof rack. Not sure how well this would work, looking for feedback.
When i wasnt looking for these boats, I was finding them all day around 2-300 for the 10footers. Now for the life of me I am having a hard time locating them. If you know of any for sale in the northern illinois, southern wisconsin area, please let me know. Thanks
fishnkamp reply :
Do the lakes you want to fish allow gas engines, do they have horsepower restrictions or speed limits, or are they electric only lakes. I would pass on those small boats if you can pull a small trailer. I think you would do much better with an aluminum jon boat or V bottom boat. Also forget putting bass raider/sun dolphin on a roof. I do not know you budget but I will list some more moderate packages I found in your state. At least maybe we can find something that would work for you. Look here: https://carbondale.craigslist.org/boa/5747053643.html https://chicago.craigslist.org/nwi/boa/5741324805.html https://springfieldil.craigslist.org/boa/5717821458.html https://stlouis.craigslist.org/boa/5721152708.html Thes are just a few. I apologize if some are not close enough to you. Spend some time on different craigslist pages that are near enough to you. Forget the little boats, look for a 14 to 15 foot jon with some seats and an engine. You will find they tow really easily and fish much safer. With this you can use a small gas engine or an electric trolling motor. Add a few rod holders, a pair of deep cycle batteries and you are fishing. Most of the samples I gave match that give or take. If your budget can be increased a bit and you can tow this much boat something like this might be nice. https://chicago.craigslist.org/nwc/boa/5741230536.html Good luck with your search Make sure to let us know what you decide on. Oh and we love pictures.
petes67bird reply :
On 8/24/2016 at 9:32 AM, fishnkamp said:Do the lakes you want to fish allow gas engines, do they have horsepower restrictions or speed limits, or are they electric only lakes. I would pass on those small boats if you can pull a small trailer. I think you would do much better with an aluminum jon boat or V bottom boat. Also forget putting bass raider/sun dolphin on a roof. I do not know you budget but I will list some more moderate packages I found in your state. At least maybe we can find something that would work for you. Look here: https://carbondale.craigslist.org/boa/5747053643.html https://chicago.craigslist.org/nwi/boa/5741324805.html https://springfieldil.craigslist.org/boa/5717821458.html https://stlouis.craigslist.org/boa/5721152708.html Thes are just a few. I apologize if some are not close enough to you. Spend some time on different craigslist pages that are near enough to you. Forget the little boats, look for a 14 to 15 foot jon with some seats and an engine. You will find they tow really easily and fish much safer. With this you can use a small gas engine or an electric trolling motor. Add a few rod holders, a pair of deep cycle batteries and you are fishing. Most of the samples I gave match that give or take. If your budget can be increased a bit and you can tow this much boat something like this might be nice. https://chicago.craigslist.org/nwc/boa/5741230536.html Good luck with your search Make sure to let us know what you decide on. Oh and we love pictures.
Thanks for the reply and especially for taking the time out to actually find some examples for sale. I really appreciate it! Most of my uses will be on smaller, no wake lakes that are local to me. . I drive a Subaru Outback and I do have a hitch on the car so I am not opposed to getting a boat that can use a motor. I will start looking at the jon boats. Unfortunately times are tough so I am trying to stay around the 500 or less price range which is why the little bass boats were hitting the spot. Thanks for all the help. I am in northern illinois and southern wisconsin area so I guess I will keep looking for a good deal.
fishnkamp reply :
Fall is coming and you know guys will be dropping their prices. I totally understand the money issues today. I have another idea. Look for a 16 foot used squareback canoe. Like this http://chicago.craigslist.org/nwi/boa/5746518048.html Then go buy a 30 pound thrust electric trolling motor and a deep cycle battery. The trolling motor could be a Bass Pro Prowler brand new ( one of the least expensive available) or a used trolling motor. I fished out of a boat like this. If you do this then next year you could start saving towards something else but these are pretty nice and stable.
petes67bird reply :
On 8/24/2016 at 10:06 AM, fishnkamp said:Fall is coming and you know guys will be dropping their prices. I totally understand the money issues today. I have another idea. Look for a 16 foot used squareback canoe. Like this http://chicago.craigslist.org/nwi/boa/5746518048.html Then go buy a 30 pound thrust electric trolling motor and a deep cycle battery. The trolling motor could be a Bass Pro Prowler brand new ( one of the least expensive available) or a used trolling motor. I fished out of a boat like this. If you do this then next year you could start saving towards something else but these are pretty nice and stable.
My dad bought a brand new 40lbs thrust Minn Kota in 1997, its still in box lol. So I dont need a trolling motor, just boat right now. Quick question is 12ft too small? https://racine.craigslist.org/boa/5699851644.html
what do you think about this https://chicago.craigslist.org/nwc/boa/5736261003.html or this one if I offer less https://racine.craigslist.org/boa/5726923911.html or https://milwaukee.craigslist.org/boa/5715433389.html or https://milwaukee.craigslist.org/boa/5742298121.html or https://milwaukee.craigslist.org/boa/5738739423.html
fishnkamp reply :
It is funny, I fished out of a 12 foot jon for 5 years. It was my first boat, we even fished 3 people in that boat often. However I was 18 years old and so were my girlfriend/now wife and my best buddy. We fished out of it on a very calm drinking reservoir and only with an electric trolling motor. I never felt scared about us in it at all. Now, I would never do that at my age (over 50) nor would I recommend anyone else using that small of a boat for full size adults. Not unless it was 2 adults to fish a tiny pond. Consider most 12 footers have a width of 32 to 36 inches at the rear. Most 14 footers are 36 to 48 inches wide at the rear. That additional width directly equals stability.. Now on a V boat they usually are wider than a jon boat in the back and have the deeper V up front. They automatically have better stability built into a smaller package. With the purpose of fishing with your dad, I would suggest selecting a boat that he will feel more comfy and secure in. A 14 foot jon will be a good compromise and we should be able to find one close to your budget. It sure helps that dad has a trolling motor as you may find a nicer boat & trailer with no motor in your budget. I think several of the boats you showed me look good. My personal choice would be this one https://racine.craigslist.org/boa/5726923911.html. It is the one pictured below. I know that is a little above what you want to spend, but from a complete and ready to go package and safety/ stability standpoint i think I would put that in my yard immediately. The seats are going to be comfy allowing dad to stretch his legs without being on high pedestals. Many of the boats I looked at had installed tall pedestals which are fine on big bass boats or 18 foot wide jon, but they make it "feel" unstable due to the higher center of gravity. If you decide to fish electric only waters you simply remove the gas engine that day and add your dad's trolling motor on the rear as well as a second battery.
My last reservoir rig was a 15 foot aluminum Mod V bass boat. I pulled my gas engine off and added 4 more batteries and two transom mount trolling motors. That boat was terrific to fish out of on big drinking reservoirs here in MD.. I will post a couple of pics so you can get some ideas. Notice I have added some rod holders which allowed us to troll for big white perch. I also added some marker buoys to use when I found fish schooled up on deep structure or shallower humps surrounded by deeper water. I lie the Anchor Mate anchor winch mounted up front nest to the trolling motor Lastly I have a mount sticking up ( the black arm on the right ) for a depth/fish finder. We fished for bass, crappie, perch, cats, walleye,and other panfish on this boat. In this picture you can also just see the black boxes that contained two deep cycle batteries. There were two more behind in the stern area and one more under the front seat in the metal box. With a few add ons the 14 foot V boat above would function the same. It will have a nice V up front to cut the water and a wider flat bottom in the rear. Thus providing a stable platform.
g
By the way I later removed that 25 hp Merc, off the black bass boat, and sold the Polar Kraft with it reinstalled as it originally was. I then purchased a used 75 hp Merc and installed it on the Lowe bass boat. I did this because we moved to the Chesapeake Bay about 2 years after these pics were taken and would no longer be able to keep two boats or fish those lakes. Here is a pic of the Lowe bass boat as it is now.
Good Luck and let me know how it goes
WIGuide reply :
Having fished out of small v-hulls, john boats, and sundolphin 110 (back when they were bass hounds), the sun dolphin gives you a lot more along the lines of stability. They have a 54" beam and their side go pretty close to straight down which gives you almost the same measurement for the bottom. The one down side to the smaller boat is there is less room to store stuff. That's ultimately what lead me to upgrade as I had just outgrown it, but without a gas outboard you'll gain a spot to put things where the tank would be, and you can always keep the plug in the livewell and use that as a small storage as well. As far as fishing two larger men in them, I'm 6'6" and my dad is 6'5" it was a little cramped, and the boat wouldn't plane out with my 8 horse, but the boat didn't seem overloaded. Since the design of the boat hasn't changed since the mid 90's when it came out, I don't see why any of them would be any different.
As far as the issues with the boat you are looking at, it doesn't seem like enough to walk away from yet. I'm not sure what Illi titling procedure is, or which state you live in. I do however know how WI registration works, and boats under 16 feet do not get a title. The registration card acts as a title, and as long as it's been signed by whoever's name is on the card that's the release. I would ask the seller if he has the registration card, or for him to get the title transferred to his name and then you can buy it from him. Wisconsin also doesn't title their trailers, either way if you need it done you'd have to take the same steps.
Don't think you're going to put this boat on the roof...they aren't the lightest and to flip it and put it on the roof all the time would be an absolute pain.
No matter which route you go, getting a boat and getting on the water is a great thing. I wish you the best and hope you find what you're looking for!
thomas15 reply :
On 8/24/2016 at 11:25 PM, fishnkamp said:It is funny, I fished out of a 12 foot jon for 5 years. It was my first boat, we even fished 3 people in that boat often. However I was 18 years old and so were my girlfriend/now wife and my best buddy. We fished out of it on a very calm drinking reservoir and only with an electric trolling motor. I never felt scared about us in it at all. Now, I would never do that at my age (over 50) nor would I recommend anyone else using that small of a boat for full size adults. Not unless it was 2 adults to fish a tiny pond.....
It is funny for me reading this fishnkamp. When I was a kid we had a 14 foot bay skiff that we made ourselves, very nice boat. My Dad, brother and me would take that boat out into the bays and even in the Atlantic ocean from time to time. Would never do that now.
OP Pete, I would highly recommend that you save up and get something that is going to be stable with two grown men and is comfortable. I know that you don't want to hear this but I waited many years and even so, my 16.5 foot tin is as small as I would ever wan on anything but the smallest of ponds. Don't underestimate the impact on comfort having enough room to store your stuff. Keep looking, as winter approaches you might find a good deal.
petes67bird reply :
Thank you to everyone who has responded and provided me with great advice. I have some potentially good news that i found a boat and I am working on striking up a deal. I have an offer out there for quite a bit less than asking and they are contemplating the offer. It is a 15ft aluminum boat, has a floor, some seats, a 5hp 4stroke coleman motor and has an older 70's trailer that works with an angle winch. I am hoping to get this deal done so I can surprise my father with a boat! Thank you so much and i will update the thread if I pull off the deal.
fishnkamp reply :
Cool Fishing memories with your dad will be priceless for sure. I think you are on the right path.
petes67bird reply :
So I got the deal, I think it's a great deal but I will let you guys decide how I did tomorrow. I will post some pictures and prices up in the morning. Any idea how much a 15ft boat with trailer weighs, it does have a wood floor? I have a 4 pin connector hitch so I am running in the morning to grab a 4 pin to 7 pin adapter for a temporary fix. I don't think I need trailer brakes, but this is my first ever boat. This will be the first time I ever towed anything so wish me luck.
fishnkamp reply :
You will not need brakes. That boat should be pretty light. Neither of the boats in my pictures have brakes. I tow with a Chevy S-10 and a V 6 motor. The only time I notice it is even back there is when I run from MD to Tennessee and Kentucky through the big mountains near Roanoke VA and the BIG MONSTER mountain around Knoxville. Of coarse the traffic is doing 75 and that takes a little pushing in that area to keep up.
petes67bird reply :
Well I didn't get the boat. They were asking 1k in June, dropped to 700 last week, i offered 400 and they accepted. I came and the boat was rough. All the wood was rotting, seats wobbled leaning back and were broke. Mushrooms growing all over carpet, trailer tires bald. Just an overall bad feeling so I passed. Still on the hunt
fishnkamp reply :
Did you contact this person. This is one you sent me and I think its condition is terrific. It appears to be ready to go. He might be flexible for say $550-$600.https://racine.craigslist.org/boa/5726923911.html
petes67bird reply :
I have emailed twice without response unfortunately. I will keep trying. Thanks
fishnkamp reply :
How far are you willing to go to get a boat? Is 3 1/2 to 4 hours away too much? Check this one out in Montezuma Iowa http://desmoines.craigslist.org/boa/5750052341.html. I will keep looking but for the price you want to pay I keep finding junk.
petes67bird reply :
What do you think of this one. Motor is a 1968 mercury. He said the trailer leans slightly and may need a repair weld. Also the gear selector on the motor cracked and you have to change gears by lifting the cover or buying a new one. Also the trailer lights do not work. Let me know what you think
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B09sI4WAjoaybVk0OGdGWUlQZzQ/view?usp=drivesdk
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B09sI4WAjoayRkYwY2w5OUZENXc/view?usp=drivesdk
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B09sI4WAjoayWWRVT21HckR4Mlk/view?usp=drivesdk
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B09sI4WAjoaydXdCQm13dTh4QWc/view?usp=drivesdk
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B09sI4WAjoaydXpBSE55YzlPNjQ/view?usp=drivesdk
fishnkamp reply :
I like the boat. I would give the trailer a good look at it most likely is a spring mount that needs to be rewelded or a bracket for the wood bunk boards. Sounds like nothing you or a welder can"t fix up. As for the motor I am not sure parts are going to be easily found, but I would not worry about that. I would remove it for this season, add Dad's trolling motor and another battery and use the boat that way for the rest of the season. Over the next 6 months ( by next fishing season) you could easily save up and purchase another small motor.
petes67bird reply :
Thanks Fish, I am working on pricing right now. Looks like I can trade a few things I have and get this at 500. I asked him if he can get the trailer lights working for me, I will go tomorrow to look at it. Regarding the trailer, he says he thinks it was a homemade trailer by a prior owner and it just leans. I am guessing there has to be a way to fix it.
thomas15 reply :
Pete. Obviously the boat has been modified to be bass friendly. Nothing wrong with that. When the boat was new it probably had bench seats that ran side to side. These were most likely removed to install the floor. One thing, most boats like this use the bench seats to brace the sides of the boat, add strength and keep the shape. As long as the frame that supports the floor is such that it keeps the sides rigid then no problems.
Just something to think about.
for parts on mercury outboards, one place to look is boats.net If you have the s/n of the motor all you need to do is put it in and all the available parts will come up.
petes67bird reply :
Thanks Thomas, appreciate the advice and information. I will ensure I take a look at the boat to ensure its rigid. The floor looked high enough where I thought he put the floor over the benches, that was my initial thought, I will know better tomorrow.
fishnkamp reply :
Thomas15 good thought. I zoomed in as close as possible. I think they left the rear bench and built onto it. The old bench up front may also be there and the new deck built over it. If he only uses say a 6 hp engine he should be fine, I definitely would not be afraid of it if I was using in in lakes and with trolling motors.
petes67bird reply :
I want to add I am highly appreciate of all the help I am receiving. I cannot wait for the look on my dads face when I eventually will pull up and tell him to get in and grab his fishing gear. Once I get a boat, you will be seeing me in the forums trying to get tips on fishing the local waters here. Really liking it here. Thanks Guys!
petes67bird reply :
Ok, the guy just texted to confirm for tomorrow.
1. He removed the bench seats when he did the floor, should I still look at this boat?
2. He got the running lights on the trailer working, but no brake lights, nervous about driving it home, any tips
petes67bird reply :
On 8/26/2016 at 8:21 AM, thomas15 said:Pete. Obviously the boat has been modified to be bass friendly. Nothing wrong with that. When the boat was new it probably had bench seats that ran side to side. These were most likely removed to install the floor. One thing, most boats like this use the bench seats to brace the sides of the boat, add strength and keep the shape. As long as the frame that supports the floor is such that it keeps the sides rigid then no problems.
Just something to think about.
for parts on mercury outboards, one place to look is boats.net If you have the s/n of the motor all you need to do is put it in and all the available parts will come up.
How do I ensure the fame supports the boat?
Jimmy1981 reply :
If your worried about driving home with no brake lights this might be good to pick up.
http://www.harborfreight.com/12-Volt-Magnetic-LED-Towing-Light-Kit-63115.html
I've bought these probably 10 years ago and they have helped me out many times. You can also zip tie them to hold them in place.
petes67bird reply :
http://chicago.craigslist.org/wcl/boa/5744810929.html
fishnkamp reply :
Those lights would work great. Also if you are talking a boat this small and driving during the day most people will see you vehicle lights okay for just one trip home. How many time, while driving on the highway. have you seen a boat trailer with a defective light I have often and i just pay more attention to the vehicles lights. Repairing them is easy, trailer supply places sell complete wiring and led light kits all of the time. If the guy did what i think he did and only removed the middle bench the I think you can be safe to get the boat and like I said most boats like this can run a max engine around 20 hp. I would not worry if I was only running a pair of trolling motors or a gas engine of less than 8 hp. Also it sounded like you were going to fish lakes and there is not the pressure involved in fishing a lake like a big high current river. I would not worry too much. There are ways to add strength or rigidity if you need to. Ask him how it felt when he fished out of it post doing the mods.
petes67bird reply :
His exact response was this. "I took all the seats out and built a flat bottom and hooked it up. You will see tomorrow, I can take you out if you want its solid." In the picture if you look closely now, you can see where the wood seats were and how he cut them.Thats why I am worrying now lol
fishnkamp reply :
Well if necessary you could build a box that would use 2 2x4s to span across the boat giving the boat its rigidity and you could cover them front and back with plywood. then build two hinged doors on top to give you a storage area. If you built it say 12 inches high it would be almost the same obstacle that the bench would have been, but would give you a place to store ropes tackle, anchors, fishing gear etc. I would place it in the middle of the boat in between the middle seat and the front seat.
petes67bird reply :
On 8/26/2016 at 11:33 AM, fishnkamp said:Well if necessary you could build a box that would use 2 2x4s to span across the boat giving the boat its rigidity and you could cover them front and back with plywood. then build two hinged doors on top to give you a storage area. If you built it say 12 inches high it would be almost the same obstacle that the bench would have been, but would give you a place to store ropes tackle, anchors, fishing gear etc. I would place it in the middle of the boat in between the middle seat and the front seat.
Wouldnt I have to strengthen the entire boat? Usually from what i have been reading the rear and the front are the most important benches.
petes67bird reply :
Comments on this one please.
fishnkamp reply :
I think it looks great no trailer issues, no engine issues and i like the way it was done. You will have some storage and I can see the person who did it was good at it. The thing I like also with this one the seats are mounted flat with open sections for your legs so you will be comfortable and once again the center of gravity is lowered, you are not sitting up on high pedestals above the deck. Go get er. I can see a lot of fish can be caught on this boat. Dad is going to be smiling.
By the way when you go to fix the right rear light replace it with an led light and later do the same with the left hand one. They cost a bit more but are so much more reliable and waterproof. If money's too tight go ahead and get the normal one but plan on the upgrade in the future. A normal submersible right hand tail light goes for $10 and a led submersible is $15. The leds are at least 10 times brighter and do not burn out like regular light bulbs.
petes67bird reply :
On 8/26/2016 at 12:02 PM, fishnkamp said:I think it looks great no trailer issues, no engine issues and i like the way it was done. You will have some storage and I can see the person who did it was good at it. The thing I like also with this one the seats are mounted flat with open sections for your legs so you will be comfortable and once again the center of gravity is lowered, you are not sitting up on high pedestals above the deck. Go get er. I can see a lot of fish can be caught on this boat. Dad is going to be smiling.
By the way when you go to fix the right rear light replace it with an led light and later do the same with the left hand one. They cost a bit more but are so much more reliable and waterproof. If money's too tight go ahead and get the normal one but plan on the upgrade in the future. A normal submersible right hand tail light goes for $10 and a led submersible is $15. The leds are at least 10 times brighter and do not burn out like regular light bulbs.
Awesome, I emailed, hopefully it's still there as it says posted 1 month ago. It's a 12ft, but big enough for 2. Just curious, I think that 12.9 outboard will be over the limit on the tag for max hp. Also with the wood floor, would 2 guys who weigh 250 each be OK?
petes67bird reply :
Found these 2. The one in racine sold.
http://app.letgo.com/k8Mk/iFcUiwYM9v
This one is in town
http://app.letgo.com/k8Mk/DOuc8NxN9v
fishnkamp reply :
Boy I really like the 14 footer best, but the other one could be made to work. Notice on the 12 footer they have a piece of wood going high up the transom. I am sure that was done to allow the long shaft outboard (seen behind the boat) to fit on a boat requiring a short shaft. If that can easily removed and access to the rear transom can be made available than just drop your dads trolling motor and a battery in and it will be fine. I suspect the box to the left of the rear seat is either battery or a storage compartment. Since it is in town go look and see what i am looking at. If it can be changed a little it would work fine. if not I would jump on the 14 footer. That looks like a rig ready to be use tomorrow. Oh and on the 14 footer that front seat cushion is ruff. Do not sweat it you can get a new seat like that for about $60.
petes67bird reply :
Update jon boat sold.
fishnkamp reply :
i would go in order
https://us.letgo.com/en/i/14-fishing-boat-trailer_aecb571e-6295-4747-ba1f-bdc54d9c96da
https://us.letgo.com/en/i/12-bass-boat-with-trailer_87be6ed8-975e-4d8f-a21b-93dc8d6a24e6
I spent a few minutes looking at the twelve footer. All I would do is make a mod to the rear deck under the rear seat. I would lift it up and look if there is still enough room to attach an engine to the transom once that tall board is removed. If i can mount a motor back there all I would do is notch the lid ( under the seat ) to allow clearance for it. If the carpet is stapled I would peel it back cut my wood and restapple it. If it is glued down I would simply take a jig saw and cut enough wood and carpet to make room. If there is enough room under the lid to mount my trolling motor and operate it without it interfering with it I would leave it alone. Ther trolling motor and later a short shaft gas engine need to be able to mount and freely operate.
petes67bird reply :
OK fish, hopefully last one. It's a 2 hour drive. What do you think of this. I have a trade for this guy plus my cash worked out. http://chicago.craigslist.org/nwc/boa/5747150994.html
fishnkamp reply :
Go get it it is nice and clean and the trailer looks to be a real nice one. I would call the guy tell him it is yours and you are on your way. StarCraft made a nice solid boat and that Suzuki will run forever if taken care of. As time goes on just add a nice little dept finder, some simple rod holders to troll with and maybe a strip of rod holders to hold extra rods while fishing. Dad is going to flip
Here are some ideas of what i wa talking about
http://www.basspro.com/Bass-Pro-Shops-Horizontal-Rod-Rack/product/1403041223/
http://www.basspro.com/Bass-Pro-Shops-Rod-Holder-Twin-Pack/product/97536/
petes67bird reply :
On 8/27/2016 at 1:49 AM, fishnkamp said:Go get it it is nice and clean and the trailer looks to be a real nice one. I would call the guy tell him it is yours and you are on your way. StarCraft made a nice solid boat and that Suzuki will run forever if taken care of. As time goes on just add a nice little dept finder, some simple rod holders to troll with and maybe a strip of rod holders to hold extra rods while fishing. Dad is going to flip
Here are some ideas of what i wa talking about
http://www.basspro.com/Bass-Pro-Shops-Horizontal-Rod-Rack/product/1403041223/
http://www.basspro.com/Bass-Pro-Shops-Rod-Holder-Twin-Pack/product/97536/
On my way, will update
petes67bird reply :
Not a great neighborhood, here now. Bad vibe, don't see anyone and he is not responding to calls/texts
fishnkamp reply :
i hope all ended up going okay
petes67bird reply :
Just got home. What an adventure. I got the boat. It's a 1960 14ft starcraft. The motor started first pull and it came with oars, and on old Shakespeare trolling motor. The benches in the boat are wood in fair share. The seats work good. The boat itself was clean and the trailer had a new jack and new winch, everything worked well. The carpeting on the floor is just a peel and stick and in rough shape. I am hoping I got a good deal, I paid 400 and traded some junk I didn't need like a hammock, some cameras etc. I am second guessing myself about the other boat that had the seats removed and new floor. Maybe that was the better deal even with the trailer lean, lights not working, and the motor lever being broken? Let me know what you think fish. Also is the ub12350 a good trolling battery or do you recommend anything better.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B09sI4WAjoayUGltbW5zVE1kX1E/view?usp=drivesdk
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B09sI4WAjoaySmFEOTRFUHlFS00/view?usp=drivesdk
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B09sI4WAjoayZzVSTGJXazVtcXM/view?usp=drivesdk
thomas15 reply :
For $400.00 you did fine. My boat is a starcraft alummmmmminnnnummmm and it's nice, they make a solid boat.
When you buy a used boat there are things that need to be changed. But from what I see you can take that bad boy out and start fishing this weekend. Boats, in general, are basically money pits. But still nice to have. I'm off on Friday's and so today I went out on the mighty Beltz. It was a beautiful day and my boat ran fantastic. But alas, I was fishing about 5 miles from the ramp and all of a sudden my bow sonar shut off. Then my TM stopped working. Turns out the battery up front went south for the rest of the summer. So I had to go out and buy a new battery. All fun boats are. But I love my boat.
ON EDIT: first time you go out make sure you have plenty of fuel, that your TM battery is fully charged and that you don't go too far from familiar territory. Make sure you have fresh gasoline and that you use the correct mixture of 2 cycle oil for your outboard. If you not a boater it would be a good idea to skip fishing the first time just get used to handling the boat and doing the ramp thing. Make sure you are fully compliant regarding boating laws and equipment you need on-board. Some states require boat operators to have a license.
petes67bird reply :
On 8/27/2016 at 10:56 AM, thomas15 said:For $400.00 you did fine. My boat is a starcraft alummmmmminnnnummmm and it's nice, they make a solid boat.
When you buy a used boat there are things that need to be changed. But from what I see you can take that bad boy out and start fishing this weekend. Boats, in general, are basically money pits. But still nice to have. I'm off on Friday's and so today I went out on the mighty Beltz. It was a beautiful day and my boat ran fantastic. But alas, I was fishing about 5 miles from the ramp and all of a sudden my bow sonar shut off. Then my TM stopped working. Turns out the battery up front went south for the rest of the summer. So I had to go out and buy a new battery. All fun boats are. But I love my boat.
ON EDIT: first time you go out make sure you have plenty of fuel, that your TM battery is fully charged and that you don't go too far from familiar territory. Make sure you have fresh gasoline and that you use the correct mixture of 2 cycle oil for your outboard. If you not a boater it would be a good idea to skip fishing the first time just get used to handling the boat and doing the ramp thing. Make sure you are fully compliant regarding boating laws and equipment you need on-board. Some states require boat operators to have a license.
Which battery did you buy Thomas? I need to buy one tomorrow.
fishnkamp reply :
Man congrats on the new boat. I like it a lot and let me explain why. The trailer is in the best shape of all of the ones we looked at. Next let me tell you Suzuki made great motors, from their small ones all the way up to the big 250 HP outboards. Most people have little experience with them because they did not have a huge dealership network. I have had two friends with them on their bass boats. I would buy a used bass boat with a Suzuki on it way before I would but an Evinrude or Johnson from 1989 to 2010. I would also take one way before a !996 to 2004 Mercury Optimax engine. The carpet is there so I would leave it till next year. To recarpet it would be low on my to do list. Honestly I would leave the wood benches alone but once they deteriorate I probably would find a welder/ sheet metal guy and have him install some new aluminum benches and reinstall your seats. They easily can be replaced with wood but once aluminum ones were installed the boat will never need them to be monkeyed with again. So here is my opinion. I think it was a great buy so long as it does not leak. I doubt it does because of the way it was kept, so I expect you got a great deal. As for the other boat with the seats removed, the trailer leaning, and the engine was broken That is more of a project piece yp mr.
Here is what my to do list would be.
Get both the trailer and the boat registered Next I would add a deep cycle battery in the back along with dads trolling motor. It is easier to run from one driving position. Pick up a mushroom anchor like a 8 pounder. Pick up a couple of life vests. Here is a good economical option http://www.basspro.com/Bass-Pro-Shops-DualSized-Recreational-Life-Vest-for-Adults/product/12082505423213/
Next I would add a couple of fishing rod holders like the Bass Pro Shops twin pack or even the ones Cabelas sells that just clamp on. It is nice to be able to put a rod in a holder while messing with a fish or to troll for walleye, perch or whatever. When money allowed I would go find a deal on a new fish finder/gps. Something like a RayMarine Dragonfly or Lowrance Hook model, These can be purchased for around $200. It is something for the future.
Other than that get dad, some tackle, a cooler with some drinks and go catch some fish.
fishnkamp reply :
Do you have a Battery Warehouse near you?
petes67bird reply :
Thanks for the advice and explanations. I feel better. I ran up for a cover already, bought some oil mix, and now I need a battery. The boat came with an anchor and oars. It's also wired for a depth finder. Only thing he said it may need is a new plug as it's a bit chewed up. Also do you fish in a life jacket, or do you keep it it aside?
fishnkamp reply :
I have gotten in a safe habit of always wearing my vest when running the gas engine. If I hit something in the water like say a log I have no fear of falling out and drowning, nor will my passenger. Once I shut down the outboard and use a trolling motor or drift I take it off. Believe me, several incidents have occurred over the last 40 years of boating, but all was okay because I follow best safe practices. I had to do this in tournaments so I just do it all of the time. If the life vest is on me it is buckled or zipped up, and the "kill switch" lanyard is attached to the controls. I am not sure if your outboard has one
petes67bird reply :
On 8/27/2016 at 11:45 AM, fishnkamp said:Do you have a Battery Warehouse near you?
We have batteries plus in Illinois or interstate
fishnkamp reply :
Interstate makes a good deep cycle. You should be looking for a deep cycle not necessarily a'deep cycle starting battery" The deep cycle and dual purpose will give you between 100 or 210 reserve capacity and may be between 600 and 1000 marine cranking amps. Something like these As the reserve increases so does its time of use per day. I run a big boat and a 24 volt system so I use very expensive group 31 AGM batteries but a simple group 24 or 27 should meet your needs. You may even find something useful at Walmart but I could not find it listed on the internet.
http://www.interstatebatteries.com/m/category/marine/deepcycle
DEEP CYCLE/STARTING A battery used to start a boat and provide power for lights and accessories | ||||||||||
| BCI | Part Number | CCA | MCA1 | RC | Hours of Ampere Load2 | Dimensions (inches) | Warranty | |||
| 5 amps | 15 amps | L | W | H | Free Months | |||||
| 24M | HD24-DP | 405 | 505 | 100 | 11.6 | 3.1 | 11 | 6 7⁄8 | 9 1⁄2 | 12 |
| 24M | SRM-24 | 550 | 690 | 140 | 15.5 | 4.2 | 11 | 6 7⁄8 | 9 1⁄2 | 12 |
| 27M | SRM-27 | 600 | 750 | 160 | 17.2 | 4.8 | 12 3⁄4 | 6 3⁄4 | 9 1⁄2 | 12 |
| 29M | SRM-29 | 675 | 845 | 210 | 19.5 | 6.0 | 13 | 6 3⁄4 | 10 | 12 |
| 4DM | SRM-4D | 1314 | 1645 | 390 | 44.3 | 12 | 21 | 8 1⁄4 | 10 3⁄8 | 6 |
1Calculated performance
2Actual average test performance
petes67bird reply :
Walmart sells Everlast Maxx, costs 99. I think I will go to Costco tomorrow as they sell interstate. I will pick up a 27.
2 more questions. Which trickle charger to buy/do I leave the battery on it 24/7? And do I need a black marine case for battery
BrianSnat reply :
On 8/27/2016 at 3:29 PM, petes67bird said:Walmart sells Everlast Maxx, costs 99. I think I will go to Costco tomorrow as they sell interstate. I will pick up a 27.
2 more questions. Which trickle charger to buy/do I leave the battery on it 24/7? And do I need a black marine case for battery
I use this one, it works quite well and isn't expensive
https://www.amazon.com/Schumacher-SC-1200A-CA-SpeedCharge-Maintainer/dp/B000BQSIWK
fishnkamp reply :
Here is the one I use. https://www.walmart.com/ip/Schumacher-SpeedCharge-15-Amp-Marine-Battery-Charger/13005745. It is the same brand as briansnat uses but it is designed to charge 3 types of batteries, lead acid, agm or gel cells. Lead acid is a normal battery like a car battery. The AGM and Gel cells are more expensive batteries and in fact I use three huge AGMs. Here is what I do. What makes these battery chargers different id the microprocessor has 3 different charging programs built in. So I hook up the charger and make sure to let it work till the charger says it is charged 100 percent. It will speed up and slow down the charging rate automatically. Now once the charger is done remove it. For the best battery life recharge it immediately after use. That is it.
As for the case I recommend a battery tray or case. If the boat has a raised bottom, I usually drill and mount it using the small screws and hold downs they come with. If it does not have a raised floor ( and I do not think yours does) then I cut a piece of plywood to fit across the floor in the back so it will not slide around (mostly for safety going down the highway) Both the trays and most battery boxes come with a strap, two hold down brackets a a few screws. If I go the wood option I usually get a piece of outdoor plywood and give it a couple of coats of paint on both sides to seal it. You could carpet it to make it look nice but totally unnecessary
Man you had a busy day yesterday! When does dad get to see it?
.
petes67bird reply :
On 8/27/2016 at 11:46 PM, fishnkamp said:Here is the one I use. https://www.walmart.com/ip/Schumacher-SpeedCharge-15-Amp-Marine-Battery-Charger/13005745. It is the same brand as briansnat uses but it is designed to charge 3 types of batteries, lead acid, agm or gel cells. Lead acid is a normal battery like a car battery. The AGM and Gel cells are more expensive batteries and in fact I use three huge AGMs. Here is what I do. What makes these battery chargers different id the microprocessor has 3 different charging programs built in. So I hook up the charger and make sure to let it work till the charger says it is charged 100 percent. It will speed up and slow down the charging rate automatically. Now once the charger is done remove it. For the best battery life recharge it immediately after use. That is it.
As for the case I recommend a battery tray or case. If the boat has a raised bottom, I usually drill and mount it using the small screws and hold downs they come with. If it does not have a raised floor ( and I do not think yours does) then I cut a piece of plywood to fit across the floor in the back so it will not slide around (mostly for safety going down the highway) Both the trays and most battery boxes come with a strap, two hold down brackets a a few screws. If I go the wood option I usually get a piece of outdoor plywood and give it a couple of coats of paint on both sides to seal it. You could carpet it to make it look nice but totally unnecessary
Man you had a busy day yesterday! When does dad get to see it?
Thanks! I have been standing in line at the dmv for almost 2 hours now lol. I want to get everything set before giving it to my dad. Should I go with battery tender or Schumacher
thomas15 reply :
On 8/27/2016 at 10:56 AM, thomas15 said:Pete
To answer you question, I decided on the wally world Everstart 29DC Some might argue that it's not the best but several factors played into this. First let me say that if I used a TM as my main source of powder then I would have bought either an Interstate or Deka.
The Everstart has a 2 year replacement warranty, this battery is 860MCA and 100 Amp Hours, slightly more than the Interstate (on paper). I have a relative that works at WM (employee discount) so I got is for quite a bit less $$. I have a starting battery that I could use in a pinch in an emergency. Finally it's replacing an Everstart 27DC that has been of good service. I decided to buy this battery, which I did last night. Hooked it up to a charger and let it charge overnight. This morning it measures 13.8 volts, the only thing I have to do is run a load test which I'm doing later today. If all is well I will keep the battery, if not I will return it.
I understand that the Everstart is not the same quality of Interstate or Deka. I have noticed, and this is not a criticism of anyone, that opinions vary regarding batteries and for that matter trolling motors. My boat is 16'4", a 50 HP outboard, I carry 12 gallons of gasoline, two batteries and a boatload of fishing tackle.
My TM is a Minn Kota All-Terrain which has 40 pounds thrust, 12 volts. The All-terrain is the same as the Edge except it is uglier. It has 5 speed settings, I use the 2nd or 3rd and that pulls my boat fast enough. I have never used the highest setting 5. I figure replacing a 27DC with a 29DC will give me an added operating range but I have never (except yesterday of course) run my old battery down past 60% on a fishing trip. I have a fishing buddy that sneers at my baby 40 pounds of thrust and 12 volt system but it works fine and upgrading to 24 volts and more thrust doesn't make any economic sense to me right now. I did replace the bottom cover of the TM head last spring. A friends father is an Minn-Kota repairmen and he basically gave me the part. I had to completely disassemble the head so I adjusted it and lubed it and it really is a smooth steering TM now. I would rather put the hundreds of dollars it would cost to upgrade my TM into a side scan sonar. Another discussion for another day, but I have two sonars, both are lowrance with hybred downscan and I really haven't learned how to use everything they have to offer either.
For a battery charger I use a 10 amp trickle charger that was my Dads. When we were kids, money was very tight at times and my Dad bought it at a time when we had no money. I remember even my Mom bragging about this charger having a 50 AMP boost. This charger is at least 45 years old. About 2 weeks ago I took it apart and fixed the lead cord that goes from the transformer output to the battery. This is basically zip cord and the insulation was starting to dry rot from age. So I cannot recommend a battery charger but it's good to see that another poster has.
I'm thinking about getting a 2 bank battery charger/conditioner for the boat. It's a real pain for me to hook up the charger because I keep my boat covered with a canvas cover. But for now it works. But I'm just rambling here and not being of any help to you.
Pete, keep us updated, let me say that if I had the opportunity to buy what you did I would have purchased it as we have a bunch of HP restricted and/or electric only lakes and I think your boat would be great for them. My Dad has been gone for 15 years and I would give just about anything to go on a fishing trip with him now. We had so many good times on the water when I was a kid. Good luck with your boat!
thomas15 reply :
^^^My charger has a 15 AMP boost not 50 Amps. I cannot edit this post for some reason but want to be accurate as possible.
fishnkamp reply :
The Shumacher at Walley World will work fine for you. When I turned the Polar Kraft (the green boat ) into an all electric boat I had three trolling motors and 5 deep cycle batteries. I recharged them all using 3 of the Wal Mart Schumacher chargers. The exact model I posted.
Thomas15 if you interested in a good reliable 2 bank on board charger I have been using this one from Bass Pro for the last 6 years and it has been solid. It supplies 10 amps per battery independently.
http://www.basspro.com/Bass-Pro-Shops-XPS-Intelligent-Technology-Series-Onboard-Marine-Battery-Charger-XPS-iT-10/10/product/10224686/
As it is you still would need to fish out the electrical plug to hook it up. As an alternative you may be able to install one of these in the back of the boat say near the splash well so you would have easy access to it.
http://www.basspro.com/Onboard-Charger-Inlet/product/5205/
petes67bird reply :
On 8/27/2016 at 11:59 PM, thomas15 said:To answer you question, I decided on the wally world Everstart 29DC Some might argue that it's not the best but several factors played into this. First let me say that if I used a TM as my main source of powder then I would have bought either an Interstate or Deka.
The Everstart has a 2 year replacement warranty, this battery is 860MCA and 100 Amp Hours, slightly more than the Interstate (on paper). I have a relative that works at WM (employee discount) so I got is for quite a bit less $$. I have a starting battery that I could use in a pinch in an emergency. Finally it's replacing an Everstart 27DC that has been of good service. I decided to buy this battery, which I did last night. Hooked it up to a charger and let it charge overnight. This morning it measures 13.8 volts, the only thing I have to do is run a load test which I'm doing later today. If all is well I will keep the battery, if not I will return it.
I understand that the Everstart is not the same quality of Interstate or Deka. I have noticed, and this is not a criticism of anyone, that opinions vary regarding batteries and for that matter trolling motors. My boat is 16'4", a 50 HP outboard, I carry 12 gallons of gasoline, two batteries and a boatload of fishing tackle.
My TM is a Minn Kota All-Terrain which has 40 pounds thrust, 12 volts. The All-terrain is the same as the Edge except it is uglier. It has 5 speed settings, I use the 2nd or 3rd and that pulls my boat fast enough. I have never used the highest setting 5. I figure replacing a 27DC with a 29DC will give me an added operating range but I have never (except yesterday of course) run my old battery down past 60% on a fishing trip. I have a fishing buddy that sneers at my baby 40 pounds of thrust and 12 volt system but it works fine and upgrading to 24 volts and more thrust doesn't make any economic sense to me right now. I did replace the bottom cover of the TM head last spring. A friends father is an Minn-Kota repairmen and he basically gave me the part. I had to completely disassemble the head so I adjusted it and lubed it and it really is a smooth steering TM now. I would rather put the hundreds of dollars it would cost to upgrade my TM into a side scan sonar. Another discussion for another day, but I have two sonars, both are lowrance with hybred downscan and I really haven't learned how to use everything they have to offer either.
For a battery charger I use a 10 amp trickle charger that was my Dads. When we were kids, money was very tight at times and my Dad bought it at a time when we had no money. I remember even my Mom bragging about this charger having a 50 AMP boost. This charger is at least 45 years old. About 2 weeks ago I took it apart and fixed the lead cord that goes from the transformer output to the battery. This is basically zip cord and the insulation was starting to dry rot from age. So I cannot recommend a battery charger but it's good to see that another poster has.
I'm thinking about getting a 2 bank battery charger/conditioner for the boat. It's a real pain for me to hook up the charger because I keep my boat covered with a canvas cover. But for now it works. But I'm just rambling here and not being of any help to you.
Pete, keep us updated, let me say that if I had the opportunity to buy what you did I would have purchased it as we have a bunch of HP restricted and/or electric only lakes and I think your boat would be great for them. My Dad has been gone for 15 years and I would give just about anything to go on a fishing trip with him now. We had so many good times on the water when I was a kid. Good luck with your boat!
Thnaks Thomas, appreciate the long writeup. Hearing about your dad makes me even happier I am doing this. It's funny, in my 20's I barely called my parents. Now in my mid 30's I basically talk to them daily. I realize how short life is and how much they mean to me, I just want to spend as much time with them as I can. Thanks again for the help. Eventually when I get it in the water, I will post a picture of my dad's first catch, even if it's a bluegill lol.
Quick question. I am going to Costco for groceries. Should I buy a 27 diehard or this battery has a 40 off 100 coupon, and then I am hit with a 20 dollar core charge, so 99 dollars for this. https://m.advanceautoparts.com/h5/r/shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/autocraft-marine-rv-12-volt-deep-cycle-battery-group-size-29hm-675-cca-29hm/10312646-P?searchTerm=battery+marine+%26+deep+cycle
thomas15 reply :
I would go with the die hard personally. I considered that one (die hard) as well. The advanced auto and auto zone in my area cost more for what you get than the walmart battery.
which ever battery you get, save the receipt
thomas15 reply :
One other thing.. I mentioned about going out first time for a "shake-out cruise" by yourself without a whole lot of things to think about. Pick a time when there is little boat and ramp traffic. You also want to make sure there are no leaks in the hull. I say this not to scare you, leaks are a part of boating. If there isn't any foam under the floor then you could fill the hull with water from a hose and then observe.
petes67bird reply :
Just got back home. Picked up a Interstate 27dc battery. I thought they carried Die Hard but they didn't. Hopefully Interstate is just as good as die hard. Paid 79 plus 15 core charge. 12 month warranty. Now I need the battery case and life jackets.
fishnkamp reply :
An Interstate is one of the best deep cycles made.
petes67bird reply :
OK couple questions. I bought a new brass drain plus to replace the plastic one, it is 1/2 inch. I started looking around the boat and wanted to do a couple things. The plastic oar holders are broken, I want to remove them but what do I do with the holes? Also above the middle seat on both sides of the boat are 4 holes on a rectangle pattern spaced about 3-4" apart horizontally and a boy 2" vertically. Any idea what these could of been? Last question, there is an old depth finder screwed into the rear of the boat, I want to remove it, what should I do to the holes. Thanks
slonezp reply :
You can use JB Weld to fill all the holes in the aluminum.
fishnkamp reply :
The JB Weld will work. So will this 3M 5200 sealant. It comes in different size tubes, can be spread with a popsicle stick or putty knife and comes in white or black. It is paintable also
http://www.westmarine.com/buy/3m--5200-fast-cure-white-polyurethane-adhesive-sealant-1oz--9384629?recordNum=4
It is available from lots of places I used West Marine as an example, most good boat supply places as well as Bass Pro should have it. There is another brand called Life Caulk that.makes a similar product and I have used both over the years. I prefer 5200 but either one works.
petes67bird reply :
On 8/29/2016 at 8:22 AM, fishnkamp said:The JB Weld will work. So will this 3M 5200 sealant. It comes in different size tubes, can be spread with a popsicle stick or putty knife and comes in white or black. It is paintable also
http://www.westmarine.com/buy/3m--5200-fast-cure-white-polyurethane-adhesive-sealant-1oz--9384629?recordNum=4
It is available from lots of places I used West Marine as an example, most good boat supply places as well as Bass Pro should have it. There is another brand called Life Caulk that.makes a similar product and I have used both over the years. I prefer 5200 but either one works.
Thanks. Should I buy a rivet gun and use rivets along with 52? I was watching some videos of repairs done that way. The old depth finder has 7 separate holes and all beneath the water line.
thomas15 reply :
I purchased 3M 5200 t my local Lowes in the paint dept. Wear exam gloves and use some acetone to clean up after using that stuff it gets on everything and is very stubborn to clean up.
My boat had a transducer mounted on a small pc of aluminum on the transom by the PO. I wanted to change the arrangement so I bought some of that synthetic wood and attached it to the transom, the brackets for the transducer and the speedometer attached to the synthetic wood without going through the skin of the transom. I filled the old holes with JB Weld and used the 5200 to "glue" the synthetic wood to the transom, to seal the screws holding the wood to the transom and I ran a bead of 5200 around the wood. I'm not sure exactly how I would ever remove that wood if I wanted to, it is total overkill.
On 8/29/2016 at 8:49 AM, petes67bird said:Thanks. Should I buy a rivet gun and use rivets along with 52? I was watching some videos of repairs done that way. The old depth finder has 7 separate holes and all beneath the water line.
If it were me I would force a bunch of JB weld into the holes. You could use sheet metal screws, not sure what good a rivet would do unless it's a blind rivet it will not be water tight and the transom should be fairly thick.
fishnkamp reply :
I would not use rivets personally, to me it just opens up a chance for trouble later. I would use the 5200. Since we are talking about holes the size of small screws I would use spread the 5200 like body putty in a circle about the size of a quarter or a bit smaller. Once it dries totally (read the directions on the package) I would lightly sand it and find some spray can of paint that will blend inclose. Touch up the area and forget about it. Here is a picture of my friend Eds boat. He has been sanding around every rivet, removing some silicone "repairs" the previous owner did and then hit each one with 5200. It kinda looks like someone riddled it with bullet holes. He has more patience than anyone I know, but he is going to have a beautiful boat when it is done.
Since that he has covered the entire bottom with several coats of bed liner paint in black. I helped him work on it for a while one day. It takes some time but he has made amazing progress. In fact tomorrow it will be dumped in the lake for the first time.
petes67bird reply :
On 8/29/2016 at 8:51 AM, thomas15 said:I purchased 3M 5200 t my local Lowes in the paint dept. Wear exam gloves and use some acetone to clean up after using that stuff it gets on everything and is very stubborn to clean up.
My boat had a transducer mounted on a small pc of aluminum on the transom by the PO. I wanted to change the arrangement so I bought some of that synthetic wood and attached it to the transom, the brackets for the transducer and the speedometer attached to the synthetic wood without going through the skin of the transom. I filled the old holes with JB Weld and used the 5200 to "glue" the synthetic wood to the transom, to seal the screws holding the wood to the transom and I ran a bead of 5200 around the wood. I'm not sure exactly how I would ever remove that wood if I wanted to, it is total overkill.
If it were me I would force a bunch of JB weld into the holes. You could use sheet metal screws, not sure what good a rivet would do unless it's a blind rivet it will not be water tight and the transom should be fairly thick.
OK. So if I use 52 and seal the holes, should I do the wood trick too? I plan on mounting a 20+ year old hummingbird fish finder that is new in the box there. Not sure the best route to go. I have small holes near the middle seat above the water line, should I do 52 or jb weld. I will probably paint the top of the boat over the winter in the garage. I think I am going to build some decking for my dad as his knees are shot. Thanks guys, I am a complete beginner and I like to do things correctly the first time as I do not have the money to do it twice.
On 8/29/2016 at 9:02 AM, fishnkamp said:I would not use rivets personally, to me it just opens up a chance for trouble later. I would use the 5200. Since we are talking about holes the size of small screws I would use spread the 5200 like body putty in a circle about the size of a quarter or a bit smaller. Once it dries totally (read the directions on the package) I would lightly sand it and find some spray can of paint that will blend inclose. Touch up the area and forget about it. Here is a picture of my friend Eds boat. He has been sanding around every rivet, removing some silicone "repairs" the previous owner did and then hit each one with 5200. It kinda looks like someone riddled it with bullet holes. He has more patience than anyone I know, but he is going to have a beautiful boat when it is done.
Since that he has covered the entire bottom with several coats of bed liner paint in black. I helped him work on it for a while one day. It takes some time but he has made amazing progress. In fact tomorrow it will be dumped in the lake for the first time.
Wow wish I had the patience for that. I will probably paint the top of the boat over the winter. Is the 52 really that strong to hold up on its own with nothing else under the water line?
fishnkamp reply :
Oh yes it is super strong. I would use it to eliminate all of the unwanted holes and then make her pretty during the winter. As for mounting the transducer, you can do it either way. When I mount one I do not use anything besides drill and mount the transducer right to the hole. Presently my 6 year old boat has had two mounted on it.The boat is black and I sealed them up using the black 5200. I just made a patch about the size of a dime and then drilled and mounted the other transducer. They even sell some blocks just for mounting electronics , they are made of some kind of abs or something. The nice thing about using one is they allow you to adjust and redrill for a mount without adding new hole to the boat. Most time you drill and mount the block with screws, but the 5200 will work fine since you are not going 70 mph with this boat. Make sure if you drill and install any hardware use some marine silicone on the screws or bolts and feed some silicone into the holes as well.
petes67bird reply :
Thanks, I am sneaking to my dad's this week, gonna steal his trolling motor and his fish finder. Gonna get it all set up and ready to go. I need to wait on the secretary of state for an affidavit cause the trailer tag and trailer title is off 1 number.
Should I buy the minn kota battery box or just the plain plastic one.
fishnkamp reply :
Well I have never used one. However it might work out well for you . The advantage would be this. It is not just a fancy batter holding box. It includes a high amperage resetable circuit breaker which is just a good insurance policy so to speak. If you take dad's "new old trolling motor" out the box you can cut off the alligator clips and solder or crimp some ring end terminals which would make solid connections that are easy to remove without opening up a box. It would also allow you to hook up your battery charger easily . Now for your fish finder you could easily attach a cigarette lighter plug on the end of the power cord and just plug it in. Now the cost is about $53 at WalMart online, not sure if a store sells it. If you choose not to go that way I usually get the battery connectors that have wing nuts on them for like $4.00 each. That is if my battery only has posts and no wing nut. I like to add a circuit breaker on mine as well.
petes67bird reply :
On 8/29/2016 at 12:03 PM, fishnkamp said:Well I have never used one. However it might work out well for you . The advantage would be this. It is not just a fancy batter holding box. It includes a high amperage resetable circuit breaker which is just a good insurance policy so to speak. If you take dad's "new old trolling motor" out the box you can cut off the alligator clips and solder or crimp some ring end terminals which would make solid connections that are easy to remove without opening up a box. It would also allow you to hook up your battery charger easily . Now for your fish finder you could easily attach a cigarette lighter plug on the end of the power cord and just plug it in. Now the cost is about $53 at WalMart online, not sure if a store sells it. If you choose not to go that way I usually get the battery connectors that have wing nuts on them for like $4.00 each. That is if my battery only has posts and no wing nut. I like to add a circuit breaker on mine as well.
Thanks, so regardless I should cut off the alligator clips? I will buy the minn kota box to make it easy.
What your friend did has me intrigued. I think I might take this boat down on the winter, spread 52 over every seam and rivet, sand it smooth and use the rustoleum roller brush method to paint the entire exterior. I have no idea how to use an air sprayer so the roll on looks to be a good bet. It's a 1960, so it could use a touch up both in and out, especially the sealer. I noticed there is no foam box in the rear, only the front.
fishnkamp reply :
I
fishnkamp reply :
Let me explain why he did what he is doing. The previous owner built a floor system in it. He made the mistake of using pressure treated 2x4s. Over time the acid or chemical leached out of the would where it was in contact with the rivets and aluminum of the hull. When he was given this boat it had tiny pin holes around the rivets and hull. So he removed all of the finger smears of silicone around each rivet inside and out, added 5200 around any suspected spots (nearly the entire bottom on the inside). Next he purchased several gallons of bedliner paint , I believe it was from Rustoleum, and coated the inside and out with it effectively giving it a completely sealed surface. We shall see tomorrow how well it was done, as that is when he intends to splash it. He has since created an entire labyrinth of wooden cross members making a frame to support a new floor. He made the entire floor support system out of Azek or as he calls it a man made plastic wood. I believe it is intended for outside decking. Anyway his floor is complete and he has built storage, installed wiring, accessories, a bilge pump, trolling motors,etc. His job tomorrow will be to off load it from the trailer then watch it as it its tied to the dock awhile. Next if it stays dry then he will go for a spin for a while, if it stays dry he can go home and start final painting and numbering.
In your case I would fill my holes as needed and install my options. Next splash it for some quick testing. If it stays dry then I would not bother with a coat of 5200 during the winter, but the idea of using the bedliner paint and a roller may be a good one. A simple couple of coats to seal it all, and then some nice paint to make her pretty sounds good and it will help protect it. The boat Ed sold before he started working on this one was a mid sixties Grumman V bottom aluminum boat. Man Rosie the Riveter knew how to install rivets in those boats!!! It weighed almost nothing for a 14 footer, but I think the rivets accounted for at least 2/3 of its weight.
petes67bird reply :
On 8/29/2016 at 1:06 PM, fishnkamp said:Let me explain why he did what he is doing. The previous owner built a floor system in it. He made the mistake of using pressure treated 2x4s. Over time the acid or chemical leached out of the would where it was in contact with the rivets and aluminum of the hull. When he was given this boat it had tiny pin holes around the rivets and hull. So he removed all of the finger smears of silicone around each rivet inside and out, added 5200 around any suspected spots (nearly the entire bottom on the inside). Next he purchased several gallons of bedliner paint , I believe it was from Rustoleum, and coated the inside and out with it effectively giving it a completely sealed surface. We shall see tomorrow how well it was done, as that is when he intends to splash it. He has since created an entire labyrinth of wooden cross members making a frame to support a new floor. He made the entire floor support system out of Azek or as he calls it a man made plastic wood. I believe it is intended for outside decking. Anyway his floor is complete and he has built storage, installed wiring, accessories, a bilge pump, trolling motors,etc. His job tomorrow will be to off load it from the trailer then watch it as it its tied to the dock awhile. Next if it stays dry then he will go for a spin for a while, if it stays dry he can go home and start final painting and numbering.
In your case I would fill my holes as needed and install my options. Next splash it for some quick testing. If it stays dry then I would not bother with a coat of 5200 during the winter, but the idea of using the bedliner paint and a roller may be a good one. A simple couple of coats to seal it all, and then some nice paint to make her pretty sounds good and it will help protect it. The boat Ed sold before he started working on this one was a mid sixties Grumman V bottom aluminum boat. Man Rosie the Riveter knew how to install rivets in those boats!!! It weighed almost nothing for a 14 footer, but I think the rivets accounted for at least 2/3 of its weight.
Would you use the bed liner paint outside or inside the boat?
fishnkamp reply :
If you test the boat and have no leaks I probably would just give the boat a coat of bedliner paint and then a coat or two of a light grey paint. Something close to the color it is right now. Then you could give the area that is blue a nice fresh coat of dads favorite color. I like the blue, but he might like it another color. I would not bother painting the inside unless you feel like it. Just a note, Ed goes over to Tractor Supply Company to get his paint. he likes to use an exterior grade oil base paint. It takes a lot longer to dry but it has worked out well. I believe they will have a farm implement grey or some tractor color blue like a ford Blue.I think his red might be like an International tractor red..
petes67bird reply :
On 8/29/2016 at 2:53 PM, fishnkamp said:If you test the boat and have no leaks I probably would just give the boat a coat of bedliner paint and then a coat or two of a light grey paint. Something close to the color it is right now. Then you could give the area that is blue a nice fresh coat of dads favorite color. I like the blue, but he might like it another color. I would not bother painting the inside unless you feel like it. Just a note, Ed goes over to Tractor Supply Company to get his paint. he likes to use an exterior grade oil base paint. It takes a lot longer to dry but it has worked out well. I believe they will have a farm implement grey or some tractor color blue like a ford Blue.I think his red might be like an International tractor red..
I think I may do a water test this weekend. I will fill it with a hose up to the lip in the boat where is sits in the water. My dad always liked the turquoise and white combos on classic cars. I was thinking turquoise up top, white on the bottom unless it's too hard to paint the bottom of the boat.
thomas15 reply :
pete, I was going to suggest you check out tinboats but see that you already have an account. Lots'o discussion on this specific issue. You will be hearing about a product called Gluvit. This seems to be very popular so see what they have to say about it.
I spoke about using synethetic wood to mount the transducer. Another poster mentioned that the boards are available at boat supply places, I bought mine at Cabelas, I think it was $20. So what I'm suggesting is fill in the existing holes with JB Weld. Then use the 5200 to seal/calk/glue the board to the transom, this will seal the existing holes (now filled with JB Weld) and will seal the two new holes used to mount the "wood" to the transom. Then, you mount the transducer to the board using screws that will not go all the way to the transom. This will allow you to add or subtract any number of transducers or speedometers to the transom without having to drill holes in the hull. I have heard that the 5200 will bond the "wood" without screws and for a boat with a small motor that is probably ok but mine has a little more speed so I opted to use screws plus 5200 to mount the wood to the boat.
petes67bird reply :
OK I found a plastic transducer mount for 17 dollars on amazon. Most people seem to mount these horizontally. My question is the previous depth finder has about seven holes vertically as they mounted cables to the boat as well. Should I order two of these or what's a better solution. I don't get off of work for awhile so I will post a picture later.
thomas15 reply :
Mount one just up from the boat, about 1/4 inch from the bottom. . It should be horizontal. Just put a clamp at the top where the wire goes over the top of the transom there is not real need to clamp the wire from the transducer that many times (7) it's just a wire. I don't have anything securing the wire on the outside of the boat transom, only on the inside after it goes over the top and into the splashwell.
I will take a picture of it tomorrow evening.
petes67bird reply :
Here is what I would like to remove. They used 7 screws and then one hole for the wire to enter the boat. And then the other holes on the sides of the boat, I have no idea what the other holes are for but I also want to remove those black plastic clips screwed in. So I need to patch 8 holes in the rear and around 12 on the sides. I am half tempted to find a tig welder. I did buy the transducer mounting board so I will install that when it arrives.
thomas15 reply :
Personally I would not tig weld this, it is just sheet metal and there is plywood sandwiched between the inside and outside skin of the transom. Use epoxy. I say this as an individual who's son is a welder and we have a tig welder in our garage.
I would still remove the three screws that attach the transducer bracket to the transom and install the fake wood board that I spoke about. If you can remove the old transducer wire and install the new through the hole that is already in the transom (under that cover at the top) then go ahead and leave it. The two clamps are in my opinion overkill but since they are already there no problem keeping them just seal them with the 5200 when you reinstall the screws. However, the connectors on my lowrance transducer cables would probably not fit through anything less than probably a 1" hole so I just have mine looped over the top of the transom.
I'm going to try to post a picture of my arrangement tonight this will probably clear up a few questions in your mind. BTW, a slow moving boat it is ok to have the bottom of the transducer significantly lower than the bottom of the boat as your picture indicates but for something that moves faster that would create unnecessary drag and would splash water at speed. This will be clearer when I post a pic.
fishnkamp reply :
thomas15 has it right. I would remove the old transducer cable, the screws and hold down clamps. That pass thru cover is a nice way to cover the hole the cable goes in the hull. That looks like a Hummingbird transducer which have smaller connectors on them. If your dad's "new old" fish finders cable fit thru the hole great. If not I would patch the hole where the cover is. Then I would go get another plastic clamp from BPS or West Marine,or whatever you have as a boat supply store. I would use either 5200 or Life Caulk silicone sealant. Squirt some in the holes and on the threads of the screws as I reinstalled the plastic clamps on the new transducer cable. It makes for a nice clean install and eliminates any water leaks. I would use the 5200 on the old transducer mounting holes, let it setup for several days and then install the fake wood board. After that had a couple of days to setup i would go ahead and install my new transducer. As for the four holes on each side of the hull I am guessing the previous owner had something mounted there perhaps floatation pontoons. I would remove the oar brackets on the outside and use the 5200 to fill and smooth the area .You can lightly sand it and it will just blend in when you give it a new coat of paint. All in all I like your new boat.
thomas15 mentioned something else, we typically mount the bottom edge of a transducer so it is level with the bottom of the boat and the rear edge of the transducer tilted down. That is the correct placement forone mounted on a high speed fiberglass boat. Over the years I have come to realize on slower boats and especially aluminum boats the transducers work better lowered down about 1/4 to 1/2 below the transom and with the body of the transducer mounted level.; The previous owner mounted hi with the entire body of the transducer below the boat. For that hull it probably worked well like that. Make sure when you mount your transducer you mount it so the bottom of the transducer is parallel to earth and not the curve of the boat in order to get good readings.
petes67bird reply :
Thanks again for the help. I am going to take the boat out this Friday on an electric motor lake. I will do the work after the trip to have more time for the 5200 to set up. I did order a transducer board and will follow the advice here. Just to clear up a couple things, I should try to remount the cables and holders through the same holes. If the screws are smaller, it should be fine with the 5200 correct? Thanks again.
thomas15 reply :
If you can get the cable through the existing hole then I would keep the little cover and keep the clamps as long as the screws are snug no problem. 5200 is more "like" a latex calk not so much a rigid epoxy like JB Weld. So you can run a bead of 5200 to seal the board to the transom. Still once the 5200 cures it is very tough, but not rock hard.
petes67bird reply :
I am sitting here at work and thinking about only having the one box for flotation foam, should there of been more? Should I add some?
Also where do you pick up seat pedestals? I can't find reasonably priced ones.
thomas15 reply :
I assume you are going to build new seat benches that are basically boxes? And I assume you are thinking about putting foam in those boxes?
If I'm assuming correctly then you want the seats on top of the benches with the ability to swivel?
fishnkamp reply :
You do not need pedestals since your seats have swivel mounts as is. You are safer not raising your seats. You will see a lot of similar size boats with seats that are raise high above the floor which is level or almost level with the gunnels. Unles they are super wide hulls than they are less safe than they should be. Since your floor is low enough to have your legs fit comfortably under you, using a raised pedestals is harmful not helpful. If you look at the Polar Kraft boat I posted earlier, you will see my back seat is mounted right down on the bench just like yours. My front seat is mounted to a box that also stored my 12 volt battery for the front trolling motor. It to left me low and inside the boat. That boat was only 1 foot longer than your boat, but much wider than your boat. Width equals stability but it still was not wide enough to run a raised deck and raised pedestal seats.
petes67bird reply :
OK, I was thinking of building him a flat floor to make it easier. Maybe I will redo the benches then cause they all flex a bit when sitting on them, I do not know how well they will hold up, my wife says they bow when I sit.
This is what I was thinking. Do you guys have a better idea of what I should do? Maybe just redo the benches, add a better deck, storage etc?
thomas15 reply :
I have to agree with fishnkamp you don't want to destabilize the boat.
Here is a thread that you might find interesting...
petes67bird reply :
Thanks, that floor is perfect. I can build the front deck, put storage there and one swivel seat. Then I can make a bench for the rear with a swivel and in the middle, I can make a column with a swivel seat there as well. This way my center of gravity is low and the boat is stable. Thank you so much. I have been driving to limber years and finding pieces of marine wood around here that was scrap. They have been letting it go either free or cheap so I should be able to do this relatively cheap, which is why I am asking.
I told my dad I am taking him fishing Friday. I didn't say I have a boat for him, just gonna surprise him. I figure I will take him out once, and then restore it and drop it off. I am dropping the trailer off tomorrow to my mechanic to inspect the bearings and repack them. He said it would be 60 dollars but with the limited history of the trailer, I want to be sure.
fishnkamp reply :
Your benches are part of the structural integrity of the boat so here is what I would do. Dad's chair could be removed and one of these adjustable seat mounts would work okay. http://www.basspro.com/Economy-Boat-Seat-Pedestals/product/1205150503201/
In the rear I would not remove the bench as it is. I would remove the seat and build a box to encapsulate it using 2x4 vertical supports. I would then remount my seat with one of these http://www.basspro.com/Boat-Seat-Swivel/product/421852130/
You could also build that box to stretch back to the transom, including a hatch lid to make it work as storage. By doing this the seat will get supported by the 2x4 frame and the top piece of carpeted wood, but you would not actually modify the structure of the boat. All it takes is some imagination and some wood, carpet ,a couple of seat mounts and a little time. One reason I prefer the large diameter seat posts rather than the flat plate and a "Pin type" post is stability in a narrower width hull. If you go back to the pixs of Ed's boat you can see he used them on his boat. He has had the more popular pin type post on many boats over the years, but his 16 foot jon is different. He knew many of the members of his fishing club are over 65 and he designed the seats to be more stable.
petes67bird reply :
On 9/1/2016 at 4:41 AM, fishnkamp said:Your benches are part of the structural integrity of the boat so here is what I would do. Dad's chair could be removed and one of these adjustable seat mounts would work okay. http://www.basspro.com/Economy-Boat-Seat-Pedestals/product/1205150503201/
In the rear I would not remove the bench as it is. I would remove the seat and build a box to encapsulate it using 2x4 vertical supports. I would then remount my seat with one of these http://www.basspro.com/Boat-Seat-Swivel/product/421852130/
You could also build that box to stretch back to the transom, including a hatch lid to make it work as storage. By doing this the seat will get supported by the 2x4 frame and the top piece of carpeted wood, but you would not actually modify the structure of the boat. All it takes is some imagination and some wood, carpet ,a couple of seat mounts and a little time. One reason I prefer the large diameter seat posts rather than the flat plate and a "Pin type" post is stability in a narrower width hull. If you go back to the pixs of Ed's boat you can see he used them on his boat. He has had the more popular pin type post on many boats over the years, but his 16 foot jon is different. He knew many of the members of his fishing club are over 65 and he designed the seats to be more stable.
OK, I will encapsulate the rear beach and mount the swivel seat, that sounds easy. What about the middle bench I have? I would like that flat floor from the back box to the front. If I create the deck up front like I currently have which covers the front bench , is that where I mount that pedestal you linked on top of that or would that be too high. Sorry just want to ensure I build this right. I am thinking of starting next week. Figure 2 weeks to do it.
Also should I use the trolling motor up front in the block he made or on the transom since the Suzuki motor is off?
Thanks again for everyone's help. I am a complete beginner with zero knowledge so I am so greatly appreciative of all the advice. I am learning so much!
fishnkamp reply :
I would design it like this. I am not sure how much room you have in the transom area. If there is enough room to put a portable 3 gallon or 6 gallon tank I would center it. Then I would get two marine deep cycle batteries and mount one on each side. I would deck over that whole area and mount your seat. That will give you some coverage and you could also lay rods on top, using some of the plastic holders with foam in them. I think they hold four rods. Now I am pretty sure you will be fine pulling out just the middle seat. You could easily make a wood frame and install the plywood over it. That could easily be level with or slightly above the existing floor. Do not use pressure treated 2x4 directly in contact with the aluminum, as Ed found out it reacts and caused lots of little pin holes in the hull. He used something called Azek, it is sorta plastic wood. You also could use untreated 2x4s and paint them first. If you build the floor the way you envision it, it could cover from just in front of your seat right up to the front deck. In fact i think I would make the front deck a tiny bit longer and build a top door to store more stuff, like anchors, life jackets, and a waterproof box to store wallets,keys, phones etc. I would eliminate the middle seat and move dad's seat a few feet behind the the front deck ( behind enough he would have plenty of room for his legs) In the middle area where you removed the center seat you could build two storage boxes say 14 inches long and 12 inches wide to store stuff like tackle. Obviously how large depends on how things layout. I am miles and miles away so I am just going off the pictures, but I am sure you could make it fit nice.If you look back at the pics of my Polar Kraft it essentially was this floor plan. If you look close the boat had a seat mounted to the rear bench and two storage boxes on the sides going forward to the front seat which was mounted on top of an aluminum box that contained a battery. In the front of the boat was a small front deck. I think it will be safe to remove the middle seat and wood bench since you are not removing the front or back one. With the addition of a flat floor and a couple of storage boxes you will still have a nice wide open area between the seats.
The rod holder I was thinking about is this one http://www.basspro.com/Bass-Pro-Shops-Twist-Lock-Rod-Rack/product/1402150935301/
petes67bird reply :
Is it hard to convert the Suzuki to use a tank since right now it only holds a gallon in the engine? Also what do I mount dad's seat on, build like a wooden column type structure or pole?
Update : just got home from work and my minn kota power center, transducer mounting board, and 5200 3oz tube was waiting for me. It's coming along
thomas15 reply :
Not to belabor the point but to repeat what fishnkamp is saying. Keep several things in mind when making structural modifications to your boat. The first is weight, the boat is designed to handle a certain amount of weight, this includes all of the building materials you put in the boat minus the items you take out. Second, the existing bench seats are an important structural component, they add strength and keep the boat sides from flexing and going out of shape. Third is the center of gravity, it needs to be low in the hull, this is why the suggestion not to have seats that allow standing. Fourth is flotation. If the boat is swamped there should be enough floatation to keep it from sinking. Finally fifth, overall weight from a propulsion perspective. You don't wan to make the boat so heavy that the motors struggle to move it. I'm sure there are other considerations not just those. Safety is the most important thing.
Speaking for myself, I'm not quite as graceful in movement as I was when I younger. Sudden shifts in body position in a small boat can make for an interesting day. We talk about gaining our "sea legs", this is an actual consideration. In a small boat we stay low and move with as little fuss and with much economy of motion. It takes time and experience to learn how to move with grace in a small boat.
If you hang out at the launch ramp and observe what is happening you will see what I mean, some boaters are in and out quickly, quietly, gracefully and seem to expel little effort. Others are loud, abrupt and look like they are out of their element. They struggle with what may seem to be a simple task. Not that I'm an expert on this but I have launched my boat many times in the last 3 years, using a bunker trailer and have not even one time got even my pinky toe wet in the process. It is possible to do this but you will see people in the water up to their neck trying to get their boat on/off the trailer. I stay away from these types. This is not an insult to anyone who employes this method but just my personal prefrence. Boating is not something that comes natural to most people. I try to visualize every move and look ahead several steps and how that will impact me and the others using the facility. As an example, I have observed people that have launched their boat successfully but neglected to bring any kind of rope to secure the vessel to the dock.
There is nothing wrong with waiting, letting others go ahead of you if there is a line, for things to calm down. I use a very busy lake with a very busy launch ramp. On the weekends there can be a 30-40 wait to use the ramp which can accommodate 3 trailers at a time. When I'm by myself, I have to leave my car on the ramp while I tie up to the dock, then get my car off the ramp as quickly as possible. Same but in reverse when taking out. If there isn't any place for me to tie up my boat I wait for room to do so before I take up a lane on the ramp. Some people are not that considerate of others.
Again not to be a nag but I urge you to get the boat out by yourself first for a shake down ride. Even better yet if you know someone, a friend that is experienced to go with you. I have a wife and two adult kids. My son is able to pilot the boat and/or back the trailer down the ramp but my wife and daughter cannot. If they can assist in any part of getting the boat in or out then great but I don't rely on them to do any of this. With a small boat like ours it is very possible for one person to do the whole thing unassisted and you should be able to do this with some practice.
OK lecture over I hope you have a great time on the water this weekend.
PS don't forget to put the plug in! And don't forget to raise the motor up before launching and while taking out!
On 9/1/2016 at 11:55 AM, petes67bird said:Is it hard to convert the Suzuki to use a tank since right now it only holds a gallon in the engine? ......
Here is a forum you might consider joining. Try this link and scroll down to the Yamaha and Suzuki sub forum and ask your questions there.
http://forums.iboats.com/
petes67bird reply :
I brought the boat/trailer to my lufelong mechanic and he lifted it and the wheels wobbled when he moved them. He is gonna repack and see if the play goes away. He said it was a good thing I brought it in.
Update, he sent me out for new bearings and seals. The incorrect bearings were used, they were too large which caused the play.
fishnkamp reply :
Sorry, I did not realize the Suzuki outboard had its own built in fuel tank, my mistake ! This actually makes it easier. I would take some plywood and nail it to 2 2x3 boards. I would cut the plywood to fit pretty snug in the back. This means it will fit tight enough not to move without having to be screwed down or permanently attached . Next make a small four sided box or use a battery box to store like a 1 to 3 gallon gas can. Screw the box down to the new floor and maybe use a bungee cord to hold the gas can in place. This accomplishes my goal of having more than enough fuel to run for the day. It will also reduce the amount of space needed to fit fuel storage and batteries. Next take some screws and screw down the two battery boxes in their place Add some rubber or a piece of wood inside the battery boxes so the screws do not harm the batteries.Often times this is not needed because the boxes often have raised sections that elevate the battery slightly. At this point I know you have one battery and one power center. Use what you have for now but design for two in the future. It is a safety thing. You fish on one and when it dies you have a second full battery ready to bring you home.
As for dad's seat I would build my floor frame and once I located the perfect spot for his seat I would add a piece of plywood inside the frame Then when I installed the plywood floor I would have essentially a double thick area to screw the adjustable seat post into. An alternative and possibly better way is to build the frame and mock up the plywood floor. Add a second piece of plywood to the bottom of the floor section that dad's seat will mount. You can screw the two pieces of plywood together. Next mark the holes for the seat mount,drill and through bolt the seat mount using long enough bolts that you can add washers and nylock nuts on the bottom of the plywood. Now just fit the floor section in place and screw it down to the frame. Obviously the frame must be made to clear the doubled plywood section. I would make the double section just a bit bigger than the flange area of the seat base. I want dad's seat to be securely installed.
Take a look at this swivel adjustable seat base. This is the one Ed used on his boat. He actually did his floor in sections so it was easier to work with. His frame is all one totally nailed together, but the floor panels he screwed down onto it are actually made in three sections. Take a look at these pics. Now realize you do not need the elaborate frame that he built, He was covering over 16 feet and raising the deck in order to build in under deck storage areas. You are essentially just building a flat floor with storage in front and behind your seating areas
https://www.amazon.com/Wise-8WP21-18S-Adjustable-Boat-Pedestal/dp/B001603LD6/ref=pd_sim_sbs_200_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=0WAX8BWQK0BSDQ04P3T8
petes67bird reply :
Perfect, thanks for the writeup. That sounds simple enough. Update on the trailer, I had to leave it at the shop. My mechanic was laughing cause even the hub on one wheel was entirely wrong, he went out to pick one up for me. So the wheel with the bearing that was too large also had a larger hub. I am so glad I went to get the trailer checked out prior to continuing to use it. So now I have new bearings, seals and 1 new hub. He said I should grease spring/fall and other than that, said I should be good. Picking up the trailer in the morning as I had to go to work. Should have some pictures from tomorrow over the weekend.
petes67bird reply :
We are in the water. So I changed my mind a bit. I have a few leaks, so I need to address that first. I am nuking the floor, opting instead to build nice benches. I will buy new seats / swivels to mount on the benches. Other than being a tad small, it's working out just fine. Thanks
fishnkamp reply :
Is that dad in front? He looks like he got quite comfortable there. It is so cool what you are getting to do together!
petes67bird reply :
Yep, that's my dad. He had a great time. Unfortunately, trying to get the boat back on the ramp was an adventure, I slipped on the boat ramp and was soaked lol. Some newbie questions. Are 14ft boats normally tippy feeling when you move? I could not stand as it felt as though the boat would tip. I was originally planning on moving the rear seat offset to allow for easier motor steering, but now second guessing that idea. Let me know if there is a way to stabilize the boat more.
thomas15 reply :
First good that you had a successful first time out. It's going to take some time to get your seamanship skills up and to get used to your particular boat. I think I mentioned up thread that with a small boat you need to move smoothly and quietly and stay somewhat low.
petes67bird reply :
OK, I am buying materials tomorrow to redo the inside and water seal the boat. 2 main questions in my design.
1.The front of the boat, if I extend the flooring a bit, it would be a bad idea to put a seat up top with a pole right?whenever my dad moved in the current seat, the boat listed pretty good. The other option is to remove the front deck and restore it to a bench with under seat storage.
2. With the rear bench, I am going to restore it and create under seat storage. My question is, with the boat being tippy, should I offset the rear seat to make motor steering easier? I am worried that the boat will lean too much. If I don't ofset, what is the best way to steer?
fishnkamp reply :
There is no way I would do anything upfront except make it a storage area. I would remove its seat all together and turn it into a closed storage area with a door on the vertical surface. Build around the original bench Now I would put in a flat floor from your rear bench/ seat area to the front storage area. I would remove the middle bench. Somewhere between the middle bench and the front deck I would mount that adjustable seat post made by Swivel Eze. The fact that the base to that seat will be lower down on a flat floor and a bit further back from the front V will help some with being less tippy feeling. I would move dad's seat back a foot or foot and a half, just enough that he can sit comfortably, without being too close to the front deck getting in the way of casting, and not too close to your seat and getting in your way when you are casting. I would leave your seat centered, again for balance. Before you do too much rebuilding do some testing. Take out the middle bench.. Splash the boat at the ramp with say 10 foot long lines tied to the dock ( I want to do some testing with the boat floating but not far away from the dock). Have dad or someone younger with you. Have them sit in your seat in the back. I want you to sit on a bucket turned upside down. Move the bucket forward and backward to see where you fit best and see how moving it changes the stability of the boat. Maybe you could even temporarily install a several of 2x3's running side to side and a piece of plywood cut to size and nailed to them to mock up a flat floor. That is how I would begin to mock up the floor plan. You want the floor to be flat on the sides and supported along the center so how the boards underneath will take some playing with.
petes67bird reply :
On 9/4/2016 at 10:17 AM, fishnkamp said:There is no way I would do anything upfront except make it a storage area. I would remove its seat all together and turn it into a closed storage area with a door on the vertical surface. Build around the original bench Now I would put in a flat floor from your rear bench/ seat area to the front storage area. I would remove the middle bench. Somewhere between the middle bench and the front deck I would mount that adjustable seat post made by Swivel Eze. The fact that the base to that seat will be lower down on a flat floor and a bit further back from the front V will help some with being less tippy feeling. I would move dad's seat back a foot or foot and a half, just enough that he can sit comfortably, without being too close to the front deck getting in the way of casting, and not too close to your seat and getting in your way when you are casting. I would leave your seat centered, again for balance. Before you do too much rebuilding do some testing. Take out the middle bench.. Splash the boat at the ramp with say 10 foot long lines tied to the dock ( I want to do some testing with the boat floating but not far away from the dock). Have dad or someone younger with you. Have them sit in your seat in the back. I want you to sit on a bucket turned upside down. Move the bucket forward and backward to see where you fit best and see how moving it changes the stability of the boat. Maybe you could even temporarily install a several of 2x3's running side to side and a piece of plywood cut to size and nailed to them to mock up a flat floor. That is how I would begin to mock up the floor plan. You want the floor to be flat on the sides and supported along the center so how the boards underneath will take some playing with.
I do not think I will be doing a floor to save costs. Not only that, with my long legs, if I do a floor, I will have to raise all seats higher. Also the boat is shallow in the rear and deeper in the front, so I will lose some extra depth up front.
This was my plan. I was going to install 2x12 for my rear seat to rid myself of the center support. I was also going to box in the rear seat, make an area for a gas can back there and some storage. I am also going to redo the transom wood as it's in poor shape.
Next for the bottom of the boat and all seat benches, I got a roll of deluxe grade navy blue carpet at a great price of free. The bottom of the boat will be cleaned etc and carpeted up until the water line on the sides. Then the upper top line of the inside/outside of the boat will get rust oleum navy blue.
From your plans I will actually remove the center seat and relocate it closer to the front and install the bench there, maybe 6-12 inches further forward. I will build a 2x12 bench again with under seat storage for tackle/life jackets. The front of the boat will have the same size storage. I was thinking of putting the battery up front to be closer to the trolling motor. The boat is small, and if there is a motor, gas, battery and my 250lbs all riding in back, it probably won't bode well.
Outside the boat, wire wheeling all seams and then sealing with gluvit or the like. Bondo fill the top line holes, install transducer board as discussed. Will use a white gel coat bottom paint. The navy on top of white should look great. The rear transom would will get stained to look great. I will get lights wired in.
Basically the seating is my only question mark left. I guess I turn the boat into a 2 seater and go from there. I wonder if I can mount the pedestal on the aluminum floor without a plywood floor?
thomas15 reply :
On 9/4/2016 at 12:47 PM, petes67bird said:..........Basically the seating is my only question mark left. I guess I turn the boat into a 2 seater and go from there. I wonder if I can mount the pedestal on the aluminum floor without a plywood floor?
No, that would not be a wise move. I wouldn't have anything subject to that much stress attached to the aluminum hull /floor even with a plywood floor. Just my opinion.
CrustyMono reply :
On 8/24/2016 at 10:06 AM, fishnkamp said:Fall is coming and you know guys will be dropping their prices. I totally understand the money issues today. I have another idea. Look for a 16 foot used squareback canoe. Like this http://chicago.craigslist.org/nwi/boa/5746518048.html Then go buy a 30 pound thrust electric trolling motor and a deep cycle battery. The trolling motor could be a Bass Pro Prowler brand new ( one of the least expensive available) or a used trolling motor. I fished out of a boat like this. If you do this then next year you could start saving towards something else but these are pretty nice and stable.
I like your idea, fishnkamp. Pete I am also looking into a small boat. You can get a small 12 foot v hull and put a casting deck on the front 2 thirds. This works well for my friend and I.
petes67bird reply :
So I figured its time for an update. I decided to get some help from a friend and here is the boat in progress. I will have some interior pictures later this week. Here is where the boat currently is. This whole rebuild is going to cost me about 400 dollars when it is all said and done. I will have better pictures when completed, its hard in a one car garage to get great pictures. Thanks to my friend Richard for helping me get this all done for my dad.
BEFORE PICTURES
INTERIOR REMOVED
PRE PAINT PREP WORK AND GOOP COAT IT APPLIED
PRIMER AND PAINT
petes67bird reply :
So couple more pictures of the progress. Inside painted. Seats raised a bit and we moved the middle seating slightly forward as there will not be a seat directly at the front, that will just be storage. Also we raised the eats closer to you top of the boat to allow a bit more comfort for our long legs. The boat is really comfortable only with 2 people, so that's what we decided on. Here are a couple pictures. Carpet etc will be in shortly.
fishnkamp reply :
WOW what a terrific job you are doing. Looks look it is going to have a brand new like. I know I shared my friend Ed's progress on his project. He has finished it up except some more cosmetics which he will finish in the spring. It is completely solid and dry, no leaks and the framing and decks are done. He has been using it since mid August. Check out his latest pics
http://www.*/bass-fishing-forum/index.php?topic=130307.100
By spring you will have her all ready and you and dad can get some big ones. Thanks for posting some updates. When you are all done do not forget to throw a backyard party. You need to treat dad and your neighbor to some nice steaks, roll up some potatoes in foil and add a few ears pieces of fresh corn on the cob. The trick is to start the potatoes early then throw on the steaks. Wrap the ears of corn in aluminum foil with some real butter and some Old Bay Seasoning. I know you may not use that seasoning but you need to get some authentic McCormick Seasoning's Old Bay. If you need me to I will ship you some from here. I lay the potatoes and corn on my top rack and cook all of it with the lid closed. When you turn the steaks (about every 5 to 20 minutes roll the corn over. When it is done you are in for a superb dinner treat. You will not want to boil corn again. To spice it up throw on some skewers of shrimp, peppers and onion pieces. Enjoy!!!!
By the way I had more surgery on my toe a few weeks ago and am hoping to go back to work soon.
My wife had pulled a promo sticker off a UTZ brand bag of Chips. There was a number and promo website on the rear. They were running a promo with the Baltimore Ravens, our football team. They were giving away Ravens merchandise. We did not win the backpacks or drink holders etc. Instead we won airfare for two on Southwest Airlines, 2 nights hotel accommodations at the Dallas Fort Worth Embassy Suites, tickets for a special tailgate party and two tickets to the football game between the Ravens and the Dallas Cowboys in Dallas the weekend before Thanksgiving. We could not believe it when they called. We were two of 12 winners, it sooo cool.
CrustyMono reply :
no title no go
petes67bird reply :
On 10/31/2016 at 9:44 AM, CrustyMono said:no title no go
What do you mean? All titles and registration have been returned to me and are in my name now.
On 10/31/2016 at 6:57 AM, fishnkamp said:WOW what a terrific job you are doing. Looks look it is going to have a brand new like. I know I shared my friend Ed's progress on his project. He has finished it up except some more cosmetics which he will finish in the spring. It is completely solid and dry, no leaks and the framing and decks are done. He has been using it since mid August. Check out his latest pics
http://www.*/bass-fishing-forum/index.php?topic=130307.100
By spring you will have her all ready and you and dad can get some big ones. Thanks for posting some updates. When you are all done do not forget to throw a backyard party. You need to treat dad and your neighbor to some nice steaks, roll up some potatoes in foil and add a few ears pieces of fresh corn on the cob. The trick is to start the potatoes early then throw on the steaks. Wrap the ears of corn in aluminum foil with some real butter and some Old Bay Seasoning. I know you may not use that seasoning but you need to get some authentic McCormick Seasoning's Old Bay. If you need me to I will ship you some from here. I lay the potatoes and corn on my top rack and cook all of it with the lid closed. When you turn the steaks (about every 5 to 20 minutes roll the corn over. When it is done you are in for a superb dinner treat. You will not want to boil corn again. To spice it up throw on some skewers of shrimp, peppers and onion pieces. Enjoy!!!!
By the way I had more surgery on my toe a few weeks ago and am hoping to go back to work soon.
My wife had pulled a promo sticker off a UTZ brand bag of Chips. There was a number and promo website on the rear. They were running a promo with the Baltimore Ravens, our football team. They were giving away Ravens merchandise. We did not win the backpacks or drink holders etc. Instead we won airfare for two on Southwest Airlines, 2 nights hotel accommodations at the Dallas Fort Worth Embassy Suites, tickets for a special tailgate party and two tickets to the football game between the Ravens and the Dallas Cowboys in Dallas the weekend before Thanksgiving. We could not believe it when they called. We were two of 12 winners, it sooo cool.
Thank you so much for your recipe. We always grill corn being in the middle of corn country. I literally have the farm about 2 blocks from my house where we pick our own vegetables. I don't have the old bay seasoning, buy I will look it up and try it out. While we are on the topic of grill food, here is one of my favorite sides. Take a head of cauliflower, and take all the leaves off. Bs often one stick of butter and spread it all over the head of cauliflower. Sprinkle some seasoning and then douse it in partisan cheese. Wrap it in foil and put it on your grill at 400 degrees for 45 minutes. I can eat the whole thing on my own, it's that good.
That is great news that you had successful surgery, I will be so happy for you when you get back out on your feet. It really is a trying time when you are physically limited , so hearing you are on the upswing is fantastic !
The contest win is amazing. I haven't been that lucky but that will be a great getaway for you two. Not sure how far San Antonio is from there, but the Riverwalk is a place I hear is beautiful. Hope you guys have a safe trip and let us know how it goes, the stadium is supposed to be jaw dropping !
I will post some more interior pictures shortly, carpeting and seats almost done. Hopefully the goop coat it solves all the small leaks. They weren't very bad, but still would be nice to be rid of them. Your friends boat looks great as well! Have a good night.
fishnkamp reply :
Do me a favor. Send an email to me at fishnkamp@comcast.net. Include your home address.I will slip a can of that stuff in a box and send it out to you. Maryland is the home of theMcCormick Spice Co and they churn out tons of that stuff and we blue crab eaters devour it.
petes67bird reply :
So as we were finishing the cubs game, I went to check my wife's seasoning, and we have some in our cupboard. To be honest, I don't remember ever seeing it or trying it. I will have to try it as you say! I usually use the McCormick bacon molasses seasoning for my burgers and some of their other rubs.
These are a few of my go to's
petes67bird reply :
Almost done!
J Francho reply :
What a transformation!
petes67bird reply :
On 11/1/2016 at 3:15 AM, J Francho said:What a transformation!
Thanks. All that is left is the carpet floor and wiring for the lights, fish finder and battery.
fishnkamp reply :
I am totally impressed. You and dad are going to have some fun next spring! Wow.
petes67bird reply :
On 11/1/2016 at 6:45 AM, fishnkamp said:I am totally impressed. You and dad are going to have some fun next spring! Wow.
Thanks. The transom didnt get replaced, and it is now painted over which isnt ideal, but I can always get that changed out in the future. Overall, the boat is coming out better than I thought. I will get some better lighting in the photos once it is all done.
fishwizzard reply :
That boat looks amazing. I have been idly thinking about buying a boat and have been reading a few threads, this one especially has been an inspiration. I need another project like I need a hole in my head, but your $400 boat is given me the itch really badly!
petes67bird reply :
On 11/3/2016 at 7:30 AM, Bunnielab said:That boat looks amazing. I have been idly thinking about buying a boat and have been reading a few threads, this one especially has been an inspiration. I need another project like I need a hole in my head, but your $400 boat is given me the itch really badly!
To give you some ideas of what I spent.
400 boat/trailer plus my trades.
60 each for the seats/swivels on Craigslist
About 80 for wood, 1 of 2x12x12 untreated, 1 of 1/2" marine grade plywood, I found in the scrap section 1 of the 1/4" plywood, 3 of 2x4's and a couple other scraps from the scrap heap of my local hardware store.
40 for deluxe carpet. Menards had the deluxe marine carpet on sale at 32 cents, end of year sale
A little under 100 for all the paint, topside, bottom, primer and goop coat it to seal all rivets/seams
80 for miscellaneous such as rivets, wiring, screws, tape, adhesive, sandpaper, fire extinguisher etc. Again look at the clearance areas.
I also put 100 total in for all the hubs/bearings to be replaced earlier. I still need tires next year.
Total investment not including thebtitle/registration is just about 1200. Boat should be done tomorrow, I will get better pictures of everything.
fishnkamp reply :
You failed to add the "value" of your time and labor. I realize it is offset by the pride of having done such a nice job. It is felt every time you and your dad get to catch a fish in it. See there are lots of things you can buy with money. I doubt you could buy anything that will mean more to you and your dad then having this boat to enjoy together.I am so happy I got to go on this ride with you. Enjoy the memories for a lifetime
petes67bird reply :
On 11/3/2016 at 12:57 PM, fishnkamp said:You failed to add the "value" of your time and labor. I realize it is offset by the pride of having done such a nice job. It is felt every time you and your dad get to catch a fish in it. See there are lots of things you can buy with money. I doubt you could buy anything that will mean more to you and your dad then having this boat to enjoy together.I am so happy I got to go on this ride with you. Enjoy the memories for a lifetime
Thank you so much fish. I have to add the value of all the help here who guided me through all my tough choices. I learned a lot so far but I know I have only scratched the surface of what I will learn in the upcoming years. Thanks again for everything g, your kindness and wisdom as well as everyone else here is truly invaluable !
petes67bird reply :
Some better pictures
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