Hey guys I've been working on my boat getting it ready for next season. I fixed up my trailer and cleaned the boat. I then filled it with water and ther are a few slow leaks. I could see that it was coming out from were the old paint was chipped and cracked. It is only coming from the jointed areas which allows me to beleive that I can re seal it. I planed on painting it this winter but I want to make sure I get the best seal possible. I am going to pain the inside and out side. Has anyone gone threw this before? What should I use? Is primer and paint enough? Is there a good sealer for Aluminum boats out there?
Sounds like a job for some JB Weld. Go to your nearest auto parts store and spend the $5 on it. I used it on a 2" hole in a plastic gas tank on a jeep wrangler one time and it held up for years. No leak issues ever. It will adhere to anything. I used some duck tape to help hold in place until it hardened up and worked out great.
So what is the base material? Is it Apoxy? There is no major hole in the vessel just cracks in the paint. Will this stuff your talking about paint on smoothly?
Paint is not your problem , you have got cracks in the metal.You are not going to stop the leaks by painting over them.
Hey Bass Brat its not in the medal it in the joints of the riveted metal metal. Were the peices meet the rest of the boat I see tiny cracks in the paint along the seems and a very slow leak. I think I can seal it but want to know what works best got any thing I could use.
Hey guys I looked for this JB Weld and found a bunch of different products made by them. Which one should I use?
Their original JB Weld product is what I used. It comes in 2 tubes...black and red...squirt an equal mix of red and black on a piece of cardboard and mix together (anything will work, small piece of wood, spoon, etc.). It will turn grey and start to get thick...apply over the area that is leaking on the boat. Let it set for 24 hours and sand down. You won't have a problem painting over it. If you ask any of the workers at the auto parts store, they'll be able to help. It's a very common fix for alot of different things. You can drill holes, pound on it, apply it to plastics, metal, fiberglass, wood...anything. After you use it for this project you will never forget how great it really works and use it for other things. This stuff dries as hard as metal...Keep that in mind when you're trying to sand it down. Good luck and let us know how it works for you. I have no doubts.
http://jbweld.net/products/jbweld.php is what I used and I know it will work for you.
QuotePaint is not your problem , you have got cracks in the metal.You are not going to stop the leaks by painting over them.
Ditto. missing paint will not cause a leak. Missing metal will, however.
STOP!!!
Do not add epoxy or JB weld or anything like that. Paint is just the good looking stuff on top of the structural stuff. It cannot have anything to do with a leak or help in the prevention of one.
Sand it away wherever you have a "leaking crack". Lets get a better look, I highly doubt a weld has cracked before a rivet would flex out. HIGHLY.
The issue may be wear, you may be talking about where it has been dragged repeatedly till the metal is so thin the first place is shows is in a thin crack. Either way, we need to assess the exact damage FIRST before coming up with solutions. Unless you don't mind repairing it repeatedly throughout the life of the boat.
Sand the paint away from where it is leaking and take a pictures of it. Take pics of it both dry and leaking.
Post them.
(not knocking jB weld, it has lots of great uses but for a flexing aluminum jon boat there are much better solutions. Permanent ones. I do keep a tube of the plumbers epoxy-same thing-on the boat in case I need to fix a leak on the water- can be applied wet)
HEY JOHN LISTEN TO LBH HERE
LBH helped me and Bruce a lot get the 2 MOOKS IN A BOAT into the luxury fishing vessel that it is. YOU HAVE TO GET IT TO BARE METAL FIRST>
You didn't tell me on the phone that you didnt remove the paint first, I thought you had. Please do what Russ is saying here and post pic's he can then lead you through the process.
QuoteSTOP!!!
Do not add epoxy or JB weld or anything like that. Paint is just the good looking stuff on top of the structural stuff. It cannot have anything to do with a leak or help in the prevention of one.
Sand it away wherever you have a "leaking crack". Lets get a better look, I highly doubt a weld has cracked before a rivet would flex out. HIGHLY.
The issue may be wear, you may be talking about where it has been dragged repeatedly till the metal is so thin the first place is shows is in a thin crack. Either way, we need to assess the exact damage FIRST before coming up with solutions. Unless you don't mind repairing it repeatedly throughout the life of the boat.
Sand the paint away from where it is leaking and take a pictures of it. Take pics of it both dry and leaking.
Post them.
(not knocking jB weld, it has lots of great uses but for a flexing aluminum jon boat there are much better solutions. Permanent ones. I do keep a tube of the plumbers epoxy-same thing-on the boat in case I need to fix a leak on the water- can be applied wet)
Ok Thanks LBH I will get to it this weekend and show you the damage and leak. I couldn't see any damage were it was leaking. Not even scraps or dents. What is the best device to sand it down? Could I use a sanding weel for a drill? I need to sand it down first before taking the pics corrrect? What about the inside? Should I also do the same for that?
QuoteHEY JOHN LISTEN TO LBH HERELBH helped me and Bruce a lot get the 2 MOOKS IN A BOAT into the luxury fishing vessel that it is. YOU HAVE TO GET IT TO BARE METAL FIRST>
You didn't tell me on the phone that you didnt remove the paint first, I thought you had. Please do what Russ is saying here and post pic's he can then lead you through the process.
OK Mook I have every intention to follow these guys instructions. I would like to repair it permanatly. I just seen a very slow leak coming from a join. I figures I could re seal it but I guess that I need to find the esact problem first like LBH said.
Sharkbite,
Please listen to Low Budget Hooker.
He is totallly correct.
Now, from what I understand you want to take a leak out of your jon boat.
You want to do this without falling out of the jon boat and into the water.
Opps. Sorry. Wrong interpertation.
Please do the following:
1. Follow what LBH says to do.
2. Visit or call a local BPS Tracker Boat service center and ask them what type of product they would suggest you apply to stop taking a leak out of your jon boat.
3. See what the guys on this site tell you.
And when taking that leak out of your jon boat please do not fall out of the boat. ;D ;D ;D
JB Weld = perminant fix. I know I'm probably getting under some guys skin, but the stuff works. Now if there are hairline fractures running in the metal that would be a different story. It's a jon boat and it sounds like he wants to stop a small seam from leaking. I don't think he is wanting to cut out area, get a filler piece, find an aluminum welder to patch it back up, sand, bondo, primer, sand, paint, and put a finish on it. I'm just sayin'...How much time and money do you want to spend on this project? Get a picture on here and lets see the "damage". By the way, plumber's epoxy and JB weld are not the same thing....P.S. I have a degree in vehicle design and I know epxoy won't hold an engine block together unlike JB weld.
2 more products that I have not used that would be worth looking into is:
1) Water Weld http://jbweld.net/products/water.php
2) Marine Weld http://jbweld.net/products/marine.php
Right off thier website:
Description:
Formulated like our industrial-strength J-B WELD cold-weld, MARINE WELD cures as strong as steel, and is water- and weather-proof. It's impervious to saltwater, chemicals, oil, acids, and other corrosive materials, and tolerates extreme temperature fluctuations. Every boat afloat should carry MARINE WELD for quick and permanent repairs from surf board nicks to hull repairs.Use MARINE WELD for:
steel, aluminum, fiberglass, & wood hull repairs
engines
trailers
deck gear
winches & pulleys
propellers & screws
anchors
masts
hot & cold pipes
holding tanks
rivets, bolts, & dowels
surf boards, jet skis, & windsurfers
Well I will post the pics and we'll see what everyone comes up with. I am always up for somethig to learn and do. Just ask Muddy!!!
John, you might want to use some of these weld products for the hole in your head
That's funny...let me know the next time you take a jon boat and exceed a tensile strength of 3960 psi and a flex strength of 7320 psi. Im sure it would hold up if you threw it off a 10 story bridge. But what do I know.... apparently I'm just setting him up for failure.
QuoteThat's funny...let me know the next time you take a jon boat and exceed a tensile strength of 3960 psi and a flex strength of 7320 psi. Im sure it would hold up if you threw it off a 10 story bridge. But what do I know.... apparently I'm just setting him up for failure.
Do not take things= so personal. You haven't been around here long , so let me explain
I became friends with LBH and he helped me get my 11 ft Starcraft where I wanted it.
John is a yong man I introduced to bass fishing, and he is a close friend of mine. He came here and since i was friends with the 2 mentioned and fished with them down atr Lake Fork, I m trying to get him used to asking more than me, since many more know a lot more than you do. Tinsel strength and all that aside I am trying to get John freindly with the same fellas that helped me. Not that you are owed anyexplanation, this is not such a technical issue that it really deseves all this
WHAT THEY ARE ACTUALLY CONCERNED WITH < SINCE JOHN AND I FISH THE SAME LAKE;
At our lake you keep your boat on land, and you must drag the boat along gravel, if you are fishing by yourself
THE LEAK MIGHT NOT BE ASSOCIATED WITH A SMALL HOLE OR A LOOSE RIVET< IT MAY BE A BADLY COMPROMISED AREA OF ALUMINUM, in which case a novice, like John might not realize, by not getting to the metal first. Without any bit of good aluminum to deal with all the JB weld in the world will not help. If you read Russ's post this is what they are talking about AND IT IS SOUND ADVICE>
Ok, well when John writes at the very first post "It is only coming from the jointed areas"...that tells me that it isnt coming from the flat aluminum thinning out from running it over gravel. If it is a seam or a joint then yes...JB Weld will work. I too am trying to help John out. That is the point of posting a response to someone needing help. But if he only wanted advice from you and your friends...then maybe he should've called you on the phone. Givin' the info that he provided in his post...I posted a solution (a cheap and simple long lasting one at that) to try and give him a hand.
QuoteOk, well when John writes at the very first post "It is only coming from the jointed areas"...that tells me that it isnt coming from the flat aluminum thinning out from running it over gravel. If it is a seam or a joint then yes...JB Weld will work. I too am trying to help John out. That is the point of posting a response to someone needing help. But if he only wanted advice from you and your friends...then maybe he should've called you on the phone. Givin' the info that he provided in his post...I posted a solution (a cheap and simple long lasting one at that) to try and give him a hand.
Please don't feel like the guy isn't listening to you , you gave an opinion on what might be wrong and how to fix it. Afew other guys did the same thing , once everything is digested and sorted out he will do what is best for his boat and if it needs the JB weld that's what he'll do.
Every one has an opinion on how to or why so don't take it personally when they don't do what you suggested. This is a great site and your input is very valuable here.
Hey guys I am really grateful for all you mooks exspeirence and knowlege. I do want to get a better look at it though and Muddy and LBH and J Grouch will all help me. So i thank everyone who is trying to help. No need to argue what ever is needed that is what I'll do. I really hope thats all it needs is a little JB weld but I have to do whats rite for my boat.
QuoteJohn, you might want to use some of these weld products for the hole in your head
Mook I have many holes in my head were do I start. I know one place were it will stop all my pain LOL
QuoteOk, well when John writes at the very first post "It is only coming from the jointed areas"...that tells me that it isnt coming from the flat aluminum thinning out from running it over gravel. If it is a seam or a joint then yes...JB Weld will work. I too am trying to help John out. That is the point of posting a response to someone needing help. But if he only wanted advice from you and your friends...then maybe he should've called you on the phone. Givin' the info that he provided in his post...I posted a solution (a cheap and simple long lasting one at that) to try and give him a hand.
I am not sure if you guy's know this but I do have my boat on a trailer and I am getting a hitch on my car. I hope this will mean no pulling over gravel and such. I hope to paint it and keep it lookin nice and fancy
Grouch- No need to cut/patch and weld,lol, however, my welder (Matt 50 on this board) will testify that although JB weld is great stuff, it makes welding tricky in that same spot. The same spots got welded because the JB is only permanent if you rarely use your bot or if you never flex it. The stuff is like steel, granted, problem is, steel doesn't flex like alum.
I had been using it to keep her afloat for the 1st yr, my original welder (Builds tuna towers for Nortons marina) refused to touch it because of all the "media". He said we would never get it clean enough. We did, but it took lots of heat,lol.
Either way, no need for the stuff anymore and the reason I use plumbers epoxy is because it is easier to remove than the JB when you are rerady to weld.
Granted, Sharkbites boat may be a perfect JB candidate, my point was, let's sand it down and see first.
Sharkbite- Sand with any sandpaper from 35 grit to 1200 grit. 150 would be ideal though. You can use a piece of paper by hand or an apparatus on a drill, doesn't matter, we just want to see the bare metal and the structural damage.
LOTS of pics please, different angles.
OK LBH I don't think I will have the time till Sund some time. I will PM you when It is up ok. I don't really know how to post pics on this site so I'll need to get help which isn't a problem.
Hey guys I am going to start sanding the boat today. I took him out yesterday and after 6 hours I only had a little bit of water in the bottom. So keep your eyes opean boys. See ya soon
Pictures of the leaks
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Hey Mook I am a little confused: From One joint leak we now have pics of 17 leaks, some of which seem to be rivits, some worn areas and some joint leaks. Now you filled you boat with water, and that is how you marked your leaks, Correct?
Yet you were out on the lake for a few hours and got less than a cup of water in the boat, right?
I am posting these questions so all see them, so you can get the help you need. Isn't that back seat a little high for the profile of that boat?
yea i have the same concerns for the leaks and the seat. I have been looking around for a 6'' swivel and haven't found one. Muddy over these next few months I am going to remodel the whole boat. I need to replace every peice of wood and mount the front motor on as well. I am going to get 2 seats like yours and I am painting the trailer and boat. Most of the work I've done so far is on the trailer to make it legal. It is my goal and a great project.
For the leaks I know it was leaking 4 times faster today then when we were out the other day. Also some of the leaks in areas 3 and 2 are at or abover water line. There is very little pressure there but I still would like to seal it once and for all. The major problem is the bow and transom That I could tell. Hey guys I hope the pics are good enough and we can get a solution. Also if any one knows how to put more the one picture with a post I would love some instruction. I am worried that my post will get deleted for posting too much.
QuoteGrouch- No need to cut/patch and weld,lol, however, my welder (Matt 50 on this board) will testify that although JB weld is great stuff, it makes welding tricky in that same spot. The same spots got welded because the JB is only permanent if you rarely use your bot or if you never flex it. The stuff is like steel, granted, problem is, steel doesn't flex like alum.I had been using it to keep her afloat for the 1st yr, my original welder (Builds tuna towers for Nortons marina) refused to touch it because of all the "media". He said we would never get it clean enough. We did, but it took lots of heat,lol.
Either way, no need for the stuff anymore and the reason I use plumbers epoxy is because it is easier to remove than the JB when you are rerady to weld.
Granted, Sharkbites boat may be a perfect JB candidate, my point was, let's sand it down and see first.
Sharkbite- Sand with any sandpaper from 35 grit to 1200 grit. 150 would be ideal though. You can use a piece of paper by hand or an apparatus on a drill, doesn't matter, we just want to see the bare metal and the structural damage.
LOTS of pics please, different angles.
LBH In the pics only the bow to the transom are sanded b/c I when I took the boat out on sunday there was no water coming in from the side joints. Once I filled it up with water it started to leak. I think this is due to the pressure and not any damage. Also me and Muddy are wondering why does it leak more when filled with water but when it was on the lake after 6 hours I only had about a cup of water in the bottom. The leaks were at the bow and transom only when the boat was on the lake. While sanding there was no lose rivets or any holes it look more like old sealer or something like that.
Wow...that isnt just one small leak. The whole seam is coming apart. Do us a favor and take a picture of the inside of the boat looking at that same seam.
QuoteWow...that isnt just one small leak. The whole seam is coming apart. Do us a favor and take a picture of the inside of the boat looking at that same seam.
Yes please
Grouch- as I understand it, he filled the whole boat so that side seam really isn't a big deal, above the water line. (I think)
As for it leaking more from the inside out, the seam never saw pressure like that from that direction before, actually, it only knows that pressure going the other way, from out to in, which probably was helping to seal it a bit.
Let's see a pic of the inside but from the looks of the bow, you may need to just replace rivets. Lots of them, but winter's coming,....you have time Also, speaking of winter, don't let any water freeze in the bottom of the boat in between days when you're working on it.
You might want to reconsider how you have your boat up on those sawhorses. It appears that the weight of the boat, and the water in it, are resting on the boat's axle.
I know that when you change a trailer tire you need to put the jack under the frame, not the axle, to avoid bending the axle.
Somebody please correct me if I'm wrong.
ok guys i will get more pics my next day off anf I did take the boat down from that position as well. I can also work on my boat in the basement threw the winter. Isn't there a sealer I can use guys? I have never used rivets beforeo I would need alot of help I think. like I said the leaks aren't nearly as bad on the water. So JB weld won't fix this?
Quote#4
Hey guys the leaks on the sides on the inside of the boat have silacone on them. Should I take it all off then take the pic or just take the pic first?
I said JB Weld for small leaks.... (2 in. or less I think is what I wrote you)....You didn't say that it was leaking from the whole seam all the way down the boat...I would just use it as is if its only getting cup or 2 every so many hours until the winter comes. Then buy a rivit gun and enjoy doing this....rivet, rivet, rivet, rivet, rivet, rivet, rivet, rivet, rivet, rivet, rivet, rivet, rivet, rivet, rivet, rivet, rivet, rivet, rivet, rivet, rivet, rivet, rivet, rivet, rivet, rivet, rivet, rivet, rivet, rivet, rivet, rivet, rivet, rivet, rivet, rivet, rivet, rivet, rivet, rivet, rivet, rivet, rivet, rivet, rivet, rivet, rivet, rivet, rivet, rivet, rivet, rivet, rivet, rivet, rivet, rivet, rivet, rivet, rivet, rivet, rivet, rivet, rivet, rivet, rivet, rivet, rivet, rivet,rivet, rivet, rivet, rivet, rivet, rivet, rivet, rivet, rivet, rivet, rivet, rivet, rivet, rivet, rivet, rivet, rivet, rivet, rivet, rivet, rivet, rivet, rivet, rivet, rivet, rivet, rivet, rivet, rivet, rivet, rivet, rivet, rivet, rivet, rivet, rivet, rivet, rivet, rivet, rivet, rivet, .......
Here's an idea , just go fishing and forget about the leaks unless it starts sinking and after it sinks it will make good structure for the fish. It seems like you aren't getting much water when you are fishing so why worry about it.
Save up some money and buy a decent boat for yourself. JMHO
QuoteHere's an idea , just go fishing and forget about the leaks unless it starts sinking and after it sinks it will make good structure for the fish. It seems like you aren't getting much water when you are fishing so why worry about it.Save up some money and buy a decent boat for yourself. JMHO
Hey BB I thought the same thing but I want to keep this one for about 5 years till my car note is done then I can get a nice boat.
QuoteI said JB Weld for small leaks.... (2 in. or less I think is what I wrote you)....You didn't say that it was leaking from the whole seam all the way down the boat...I would just use it as is if its only getting cup or 2 every so many hours until the winter comes. Then buy a rivit gun and enjoy doing this....rivet, rivet, rivet, rivet, rivet, rivet, rivet, rivet, rivet, rivet, rivet, rivet, rivet, rivet, rivet, rivet, rivet, rivet, rivet, rivet, rivet, rivet, rivet, rivet, rivet, rivet, rivet, rivet, rivet, rivet, rivet, rivet, rivet, rivet, rivet, rivet, rivet, rivet, rivet, rivet, rivet, rivet, rivet, rivet, rivet, rivet, rivet, rivet, rivet, rivet, rivet, rivet, rivet, rivet, rivet, rivet, rivet, rivet, rivet, rivet, rivet, rivet, rivet, rivet, rivet, rivet, rivet, rivet,rivet, rivet, rivet, rivet, rivet, rivet, rivet, rivet, rivet, rivet, rivet, rivet, rivet, rivet, rivet, rivet, rivet, rivet, rivet, rivet, rivet, rivet, rivet, rivet, rivet, rivet, rivet, rivet, rivet, rivet, rivet, rivet, rivet, rivet, rivet, rivet, rivet, rivet, rivet, rivet, rivet, .......
So can ijust drill out the rivets were the major leaks are then re do those areas? I am not to worried about the side joints only the transom and bow is were it needs repair. I am going to get those pics up tomorrow ok
Quotehttp://www.fascoepoxies.com/ ask for Gerry, problem solved.
Yea, I need to get over there and check that stuff out.
Quotehttp://www.fascoepoxies.com/ ask for Gerry, problem solved.
so is this what everyone agrees on just to put a coat of epoxy? Whch do I use this site you posted has many? Do I need to sand all the old paint? do I still need to replace the rivets?
QuoteQuotehttp://www.fascoepoxies.com/ ask for Gerry, problem solved.Yea, I need to get over there and check that stuff out.
LBH what will work and hold up for a while?
inside transom #1
inside transom #2
inside transom #4
inside transom #3
Rivets on transom #5
Side Joint #6
inside bow #7
inside bow #8
side joint #9
O yea and my son in our new boat. I think he wants to be a astronaut more then a angler.
QuoteQuotehttp://www.fascoepoxies.com/ ask for Gerry, problem solved.so is this what everyone agrees on just to put a coat of epoxy? Whch do I use this site you posted has many? Do I need to sand all the old paint? do I still need to replace the rivets?
Sharkbite, its called Steelflex 9X, its a 2 part epoxy that needs mixing, and colors can be added, I had a leaky lil jonboat and with this stuff, well, she leaks no more. Ask for Gerry.
As far as prep work goes just sand the bottom down to bare metal, super easy with a drill and wire brush. wash it, then wipe her down with acetone...
Epoxy...This isn't ever going to be in a boat show. Sinking any sizeable amount of money into it wouldn't be worth it. Just do the minimal amount of fixing where it will get you out on the water (even if you need to bring a cup or a rag to rinse the water out) and save your money for another boat. That is my opinion...unless this boat has sentimental value from someone special.
ok great then this is what I'll do. So I have to ask for the color with the epoxy mix? Did you do the inside and out? Can I paint over it?
QuoteEpoxy...This isn't ever going to be in a boat show. Sinking any sizeable amount of money into it wouldn't be worth it. Just do the minimal amount of fixing where it will get you out on the water (even if you need to bring a cup or a rag to rinse the water out) and save your money for another boat. That is my opinion...unless this boat has sentimental value from someone special.
So this is a good plan Jim?
QuoteQuoteQuotehttp://www.fascoepoxies.com/ ask for Gerry, problem solved.so is this what everyone agrees on just to put a coat of epoxy? Whch do I use this site you posted has many? Do I need to sand all the old paint? do I still need to replace the rivets?
Sharkbite, its called Steelflex 9X, its a 2 part epoxy that needs mixing, and colors can be added, I had a leaky lil jonboat and with this stuff, well, she leaks no more. Ask for Gerry.
As far as prep work goes just sand the bottom down to bare metal, super easy with a drill and wire brush. wash it, then wipe her down with acetone...
What is the rough cost to do a 12'?
Quoteok great then this is what I'll do. So I have to ask for the color with the epoxy mix? Did you do the inside and out? Can I paint over it?
It's designed for the bottom, Im sure you can do the inside but you wont need to, as far as color goes you mix it into 1 part then mix the 2 parts togather, you wont need to paint over it if you choose a color and the colors are an additional 4 bux per quart kit....it comes in quart kits and the it'll cover approximetly 30 sq ft, I bought 2 quart kits for my 10ftr, all depends on your wallet and how thick you want it.
it's glossy but the reflections you see are actually trees outside the shed...this stuff is awsome....Im glad I did it.
holy s$%^% I like it it looks nice too. I want to get it I called gerry ang he wasn't in I am waiting to hear back from him. Do they have brown? Is that the non color you got? Man I'll just do my hole boat and it should last a while. So how is the flat jon boat? Is it really steady?
I would heed the advice above and only do the parts that are below the waterline. I'd rather have an extra coat there than a coat on the inside or on the side gunnels.
How much is a quart kit?
Hey LBH I am going to call again today and place my order. I will post the quanity and price for you. I was thinkin bout just doing the outside then painting the inside with marine paint. Is that what you use on your boat?
QuoteHey LBH I am going to call again today and place my order. I will post the quanity and price for you. I was thinkin bout just doing the outside then painting the inside with marine paint. Is that what you use on your boat?
The way I did it was outside only, you wont need to go inside. As far as paint I went with Krylons Camo ODG, I did use a self etching primer first. For the bottom I added ODG color from Gerry, and I do beleive they have brown. I bought 2 quart kits with color and it ran me about $50 shipped, give or take a couple bux....if I was to doit again I'd order a gallon. If you have any questions or concerns on appyling this stuff feel free.
My JB is only 10ft so she's not as stable as some of the bigger boys, I'd like to go bigger but that'll have to wait.
Yea I just placed my order. Gerry said I will only need the regular b/c the super slick is for speed. Since I only have elc trolling speed is no importance to me. I did order brown color too. Regular is $16.00 a quart and 2000 super slick is $27.00 a court. He said the regular will be fine for what I need Thanks Bud. Prep he said to rough up the paint that is there now. He said not to worry about getting it down to bare metal. Then wipe it down with asatone like you said. Then 1 thin coat first and allow it to tack up then a heavier second coat.
QuoteQuoteQuoteQuotehttp://www.fascoepoxies.com/ ask for Gerry, problem solved.so is this what everyone agrees on just to put a coat of epoxy? Whch do I use this site you posted has many? Do I need to sand all the old paint? do I still need to replace the rivets?
Sharkbite, its called Steelflex 9X, its a 2 part epoxy that needs mixing, and colors can be added, I had a leaky lil jonboat and with this stuff, well, she leaks no more. Ask for Gerry.
As far as prep work goes just sand the bottom down to bare metal, super easy with a drill and wire brush. wash it, then wipe her down with acetone...
What is the rough cost to do a 12'?
LBH it's coasting me about $50 to do my 12' boat with the color pigment. That is regular not the super slick 2000. If you have a gas motor you might consider . Gerry told me that it is for speed. The the super slicl 2000. Price for the Super is $27.00 a quart then you need to get color and pay for shipping.
Thats great John...I'm glad that there was finally a good solution for you. We are all looking forward to seeing pics of the final product and for you to tell us how it is...Also, make sure to take pics during the whole project... You'll definately refer to them in the future. Looking forward to seeing it.
I'd consider bringing it down to bare metal, the rougher the surface the better the epoxy will stick. Thats what Gerry told me when I started on mine, roughing up the paint is fine but getting rid of it all is much better, it's like you'll be working from a clean slate.
really I almost finshed the pre ang I am just roughing it up. Gerry didn't tell me that. I think that this will hold pritty well. What if I used a solvent stripper to remover all the old paint?
your call there, I brought it down to bare metal, Gerry told me the same, rough up the old paint and make sure theres nothing lingering about. When I asked him about stripping the boat he informed me that it would be best, but you can do it your way. I didnt mind spending the little extra time to do the job right the first time.
take a look http://www.bassresource.com/bass_fishing_forums/YaBB.pl?num=1222436470
SB- Yes, I used Interlux yacht paint on mine.
I sanded mine with an orbital DA sander, like arcticat but I've since done other boats using a chemical stripper and that is definitely the way to go. It's much quicker and gets all the nooks and crannies.
**The bottom sands the easiest (All flat surfaces and you aren't all bent over). If I were just doing the bottom, I would just sand it but if doing the whole boat, strip it.
Quotetake a look http://www.bassresource.com/bass_fishing_forums/YaBB.pl?num=1222436470
What was the problem you said you ran into while doing your second coat? You also painted over the epoxy I thought I could just use the epoxy and it would be nice. Thats why I got the color. I also want to do the inside of the boat. What is the craolo you used? I might consider taking it down to metal didi you use a drill brush? Mine brush dosn't seem to be doing as good of a job as yours.
QuoteSB- Yes, I used Interlux yacht paint on mine.I sanded mine with an orbital DA sander, like arcticat but I've since done other boats using a chemical stripper and that is definitely the way to go. It's much quicker and gets all the nooks and crannies.
**The bottom sands the easiest (All flat surfaces and you aren't all bent over). If I were just doing the bottom, I would just sand it but if doing the whole boat, strip it.
Yea I want to do the whole boat. As you guy's know I am pushed for time now b/c it's getting cold I wanted to have a nice coat on before the winter so when spring gets here I can take him out. I guess I will take the bottom down to metal. LBH what stripper should I use.
QuoteI'd consider bringing it down to bare metal, the rougher the surface the better the epoxy will stick. Thats what Gerry told me when I started on mine, roughing up the paint is fine but getting rid of it all is much better, it's like you'll be working from a clean slate.
Ok I see what you did now. You brought the bottom down to bare metal and only epoxy that area. I have leaks all over the transom so I am doing the whole ouside. How many coats did you put on that area? Was there any epoxy left over? I love the inside of the boat so I want you to walk me threw the process of painting that as well. What if I were to just put carpet on the bottom to hide sound how would I secure it? My bottom is round not flat.
Might be a little late but riveted boats do flex and wear on the rivets and holes over the years. The boat is still structurally sound I am sure as long as you stop filling it with water while in the trailer (bad idea). A good trick to tighten the rivets up is to GENTLY use a body hammer and dolly on every rivet you can get to BEFORE YOU SEAL IT. Hold the dolly on one side and the hammer in the other (have a friend help where you can't reach both sides). This will put tension back on the rivets and tighten up the seams in the overlapping metal panels.
A great way to seal the inner hull is to use the do it yourself urethane bed liner coatings that are like Rhino-liner, etc. They are normally cheaper then exotic epoxies and are available at most auto part stores. The finish looks good and is bullet proof and slip resistant.
wow good Ideas I might check out the bed linner what kind of prep is needed for that? What is a dolly I never heard of that before?
QuoteMight be a little late but riveted boats do flex and wear on the rivets and holes over the years. The boat is still structurally sound I am sure as long as you stop filling it with water while in the trailer (bad idea). A good trick to tighten the rivets up is to GENTLY use a body hammer and dolly on every rivet you can get to BEFORE YOU SEAL IT. Hold the dolly on one side and the hammer in the other (have a friend help where you can't reach both sides). This will put tension back on the rivets and tighten up the seams in the overlapping metal panels.A great way to seal the inner hull is to use the do it yourself urethane bed liner coatings that are like Rhino-liner, etc. They are normally cheaper then exotic epoxies and are available at most auto part stores. The finish looks good and is bullet proof and slip resistant.
I was also thinking about carpet. Do you know How I would go about that? There isn't much room to put a platform in the boat I also don't want to add extra weight. Can I put carpet directly on the aluminum?
I've sanded the bottom of the boat
Pic #2
Bow Pic
QuoteQuoteMight be a little late but riveted boats do flex and wear on the rivets and holes over the years. The boat is still structurally sound I am sure as long as you stop filling it with water while in the trailer (bad idea). A good trick to tighten the rivets up is to GENTLY use a body hammer and dolly on every rivet you can get to BEFORE YOU SEAL IT. Hold the dolly on one side and the hammer in the other (have a friend help where you can't reach both sides). This will put tension back on the rivets and tighten up the seams in the overlapping metal panels.A great way to seal the inner hull is to use the do it yourself urethane bed liner coatings that are like Rhino-liner, etc. They are normally cheaper then exotic epoxies and are available at most auto part stores. The finish looks good and is bullet proof and slip resistant.
I was also thinking about carpet. Do you know How I would go about that? There isn't much room to put a platform in the boat I also don't want to add extra weight. Can I put carpet directly on the aluminum?
No. You build floorboards like on mine and carpet those. Make them so they can be lifted out for cleaning. Seal the wood before gluing the carpet to it. (urethane is fine)
Carpet can be bought at Lowes or Home depot. indoor/outdoor rubber backed.
Hull looks good,...getting there!
Looks good, with 2 quarts you shoud have enuff to do the bottom nicely. Make sure you wash that hull down and then if you can wipe it down with acetone and your ready for step #2
Yo, John and do not forget one of these!
QuoteYo, John and do not forget one of these!
Yea Mook I got them there floaty things
any updates?
I got the epoxy friday and it has been raining So maybe today I will get it on
Quoteany updates?
Hey AC I Got Er Done. It turned in to a nightmare though. I mixed it all at once and I got a nice first coat on. Then I covered the container till it tack up. When I went to put on the second coat it was all set up in the container. So I could only put a second coat on the major areas of the leaks. Thank God it on the bottom of the boat. I also came back later to look at it and I have drips on the bow. It does have a nice look from far away and the stuff is cool. Now I want to paint it and I got the spray paint. I have a few areas that I driped the epoxy on to the sides. Will the primer stick to the epoxy so I can finish painting the sides? I am sure it won't leak no more so it served it's purpose. Next time I do it I will only mix one part at a time
Priming
Finished 1
Finished 2
I dig the color. Very old-school.
Do you guys think that I could build a platform on this boat or will it weigh it down and make it top heavy?
QuoteQuoteany updates?Hey AC I Got Er Done. It turned in to a nightmare though. I mixed it all at once and I got a nice first coat on. Then I covered the container till it tack up. When I went to put on the second coat it was all set up in the container. So I could only put a second coat on the major areas of the leaks. Thank God it on the bottom of the boat. I also came back later to look at it and I have drips on the bow. It does have a nice look from far away and the stuff is cool. Now I want to paint it and I got the spray paint. I have a few areas that I driped the epoxy on to the sides. Will the primer stick to the epoxy so I can finish painting the sides? I am sure it won't leak no more so it served it's purpose. Next time I do it I will only mix one part at a time
Sorry you had troubles man, but what I highlighted in red was your biggest mistake....in our PM's I wrote that you only mix what you can apply and as indicated in the instructions as well...no problem tho it doesnt look bad, and nobody sees the bottom.
Yea dude you are rite. Thanks I couldn't of done it with out you.
looks good man!!!
what was your total cost? sorry if i missed it.
Quotelooks good man!!!what was your total cost? sorry if i missed it.
Do you want to know what I got the boat for? To paint it I spent $50 on the epoxy, $12 on primer, $23 on brown speay paint $15 on tape and wire drill brushes for sanding. I bought the boat for $100 and the trailer was $250. I also got a used foot Cont. Minn Kota Trolling Motor for $50 and a new trolling motor for a $90. I have the pedastools for the seats. I need to get the seats now I found some for $10 a BPS and I need the swivels. I also need to replace all the wood in the boat and I need new trailer tail lights.
Looks Awesome, the brown looks great because it makes it look like an old school wooden pram.
as for the floors, see how I did mine in the thread about my boat. Yours will be the same with a tiny bit of bracing needed to make up for the "V" shape.
Gives you quiet, flat floors and keeps your stuff up off the floor while keeping the center of gravity low.
QuoteLooks Awesome, the brown looks great because it makes it look like an old school wooden pram.as for the floors, see how I did mine in the thread about my boat. Yours will be the same with a tiny bit of bracing needed to make up for the "V" shape.
Gives you quiet, flat floors and keeps your stuff up off the floor while keeping the center of gravity low.
I think I am going to hold off before I add any more weight to the boat. I want to see how it operates as of now with the seats and new wood and epoxy. when you add wood to build a deck does this change your capcity load?