Electric baby bass boat *(Pics added)* 2024
Low_Budget_Hooker reply :
I was reading Rauls post about the carbon fiber megabass jon boat and it got me to thinking.
First I was thinking of a fiberglass jon boat but if I were going to go that route, why not just make it bass boat shaped but keep it to 12-14 ft and have all deck (no consoles) and elec only. Or it could be done like the megabass boat with a 6-10 hp and a channel for your legs.
Wouldn't that be cool on Varner or my place or any of the elec only lakes? A 12 ft bass boat.
Any fiberglass workers out there that could give me appx hull weights on somthing like this? Keep in mind, they don't have to be thick. Bracing can be glassed in for torsional rigidity. These won't be pounding waves, a rib system isn't even neccessary.
Input guys??
NJfishinGuy reply :
sounds like a good idea, theres a few websites that have "johnboat" conversions on there. my uncle converted his 15' john into a bass machine. the only probem with the 10' and 12' johns for decks is they are for the most part extremely thin beamed. i have a 12' and just sitting on the benches is unstable. now if you could get one that was like 50+ inches wide then youd be ok probably, the 14' ones usually come wide or narrow if you can get a wide one then youd be good thats what i was gonna do untill i decided to just buy a bass boat.
Low_Budget_Hooker reply :
This is just my point. The jon I have is about as stable as they get. Aside from stability, which I'm sure would improve, I'm talking about weight!
We've seen lots and lots of conversions on here. 12's, 14's, flats, V's , modified V's, decks, no decks, you name it, we've seen 'em all. The biggest downfall of all of them is weight. The hardware weighs enough, add all that weight laden wood and there's the achille's heel. Especially for those of us who fish electric water.
A hull and topdeck,..all fiberglass. Lightweight, strong. A hull shape much more condusive to stability and drag. But small. A baby bass boat.
Varner group? Really would like your input also. You are the men in the know.
NJfishinGuy reply :
so your talkin about completely designing a hull and decks to be made, not turn a previous boat into a bass boat.
im thinking no matter what you use to make a bass style boat its goin to be heavy. if you have decks and the luxurys of a bass boat on it. i mean those johns decked out are heavy but compare that to a bass boat they are even heavier. now fiberglass bass boats are even heavier than aluminums so a small fiber boat would probably wind up being heavier than a john decked.
i think its just somethin thats gonna have to be delt with if you want decks on a boat. i mean i guess it could be done with really cheapy light material but how would you get it made thats the problem i would guess. if your gonna have a decked boat just get a high lb motor to push or pull it
Low_Budget_Hooker reply :
You need to reshape your thinking here. All we have ever imagined when we say a fiberglass bass boat is the ones we have and know of now. Yes, they are heavy. They have to be,. The amount of glass used has to be enough for it to be able to support consoles, motors, torgue, waves, weight, etc etc.
This would not be the case here. We are talking about a lightweight shell. Carpeted on top and adorned with the goods. Batts underneath and a livewell.
The amount and thickness of glass needed for this kind of support is nowhere near the thickness (i.e. weight) of what is needed to support the weight and torgue of a 300 hp Yamaha!
NJ- I've worked with fiberglass for years. Started out doing car audio fabrication and boat repair but can do anything from build glass furniture to build a skiff. This is what I'm thinking. Build a mold of a mini bass boat and top deck. Materials would certainly not be inferior. Total opposite.
as for just getting a bigger motor, this is why I want the varner guys opinions. Many of the elec only clubs have guys competing with their boats instead of their angling skills. It comes down to who gets there first as a 1mph difference is huge between boats when you are talking electric.
Mnay have 4,5,and 6 motorts, with as many batts and a ton of weight. Weight,weight,weight. This is the issue. If you could get the right hull design and weight paired with the right motor, a 150 lb fiberglass bass hull could have potential,with 1 82 lb motor to smoke many of the 1000lb boats with 4 motors and 8 batteries. See where I'm going?
Lightweight, this is the key. Durability comes with the engineering.
NJfishinGuy reply :
well it sounds like you got a great idea, sense you have the ability to work with the materials you need and seem to know a good amount about it. it sounds like you will be able to build an awsome little boat. my only sujestion would be to make it WIDE. and as stable as possible. so you have a comfortable fishing rig without worries of falling out and flipping it lol. id bet it would fly with a nice motor if you could make somethin like what your saying. i know my 12' runs about the same on my 30lb as my buddys tracker does with his 80lb so my boat with an 80lb would haul ***. i would say somethin with a pointy/sleak front so you dont push thru the water like a john boat does if its not plaining. that would probably make it move a bit better. anyway im gonna follow and see what others say but good luck if you try it maybe you can build me one while your at it lol
Flatfish reply :
What about shaping the hull out of styrofoam insulation and glassing over that, then shaping the interior and have the pluming and wiring, live wells and lockers, and the transon and pedestal mounts in place and glass the inside. the foam would provide strength and light weight.
guest reply :
Thats a good idea. What do you mean when you talk about a 10 to 12 ft. cahnnel for legs?
Low_Budget_Hooker reply :
Flat- Certain sections, fore and aft would be foamed but the process is slightly different from the way you described it. same concept though. Gears are grinding.
Low_Budget_Hooker reply :
The only down side I see so far is that the boat I am picturing, is a 1 person craft.
vincedia reply :
I saw an article somewhere where a guy took an old fiberglass bathtub and strapped a lil 35lb TM and a batt and was fishing from it. I swear it looked like he was using waders. But just the glass tub was enough to float this guy ~200lbs a battery and motor and all his gear. The tub had to weigh about 25lbs at most.
Story 2:
There is this work crew on the DE river fixing bridges. They have this little runabout w/o a motor. They use a tow line to get from shore to the floating platform. I think it's glass...but I'm not positive. I know I've seen them pull it from the water with one guy. That was about 4' from the water to the bank (sea wall type thing). And I've seen him load all kinds of tools and equipment on it.
There are two quick examples of light floating devices that will support weight. Now will either win a race...doubtful...but it's possible.
Low_Budget_Hooker reply :
Very possible if it's a nice shallow "v" with smooth gel coat and 500 lbs less than the competition. That's what I'm thinking.
Raul reply :
Low_Budget down here I 've fished with my friends in Tampico in their small ( 12 ft ) V hull very light fiberglass boats, the catch is that they have double hull, V on the outside and flat bottom on the inside. it comes with two molded seats but the seats are not part of the flotation device of the boat, the flotation is between the double hull, it 's filled with foam; you can remove the seats and won 't hurt the flotation of the boat. You get the benefits of the jon and the benefits of a V hull, since you are skilled you could turn one of those into a boat similar to the Megabass boat.
Problem is I don 't know if you could find something similar to what I 'm describing and I can 't find a picture to show you what I 'm talikig about.
guest reply :
Hey Russ i dont know if this will help this is from RED NECK BOATING
Low_Budget_Hooker reply :
I would be building fresh. First making a hull mold. With that I can play with different top decks and configurations.
A friend just stopped in and suggested an inboard electric for the rear. "switchable" from the bow to be controlled with the foot control for distance travel. Perhaps a 102 lb (or 2). A 30 lb bow mount would compliment this main power plant.
That's pretty trick. 8-)
vincedia reply :
I thought anything over 55lb required 2 batts?
Does that defeat your goal?
Vince
Low_Budget_Hooker reply :
yes and no. The output you get more than justifies it. You have to power it with somthing. Any motor will be 1 battery so go big. One more battery is worth it for the power difference between 55 lb and 102 lb.
guest reply :
hey maybe if your gonna use such an inboard set ep you might try one of thoseold telex stick steerig to avoid a console altogether
Low_Budget_Hooker reply :
Motor would run off front bow mount foot pedal. Switchable. No consoles. All deck.
guest reply :
Very cool but you still need somehow of running a cable steering system no?
dale reply :
I have a Minnkota 101 on my 20 foot boat let me tell you it does the job!! I'll put a wake off of my boat and it just chews up the grass.
Bad news is it does require 3 batterties (36 volt)
For the money I do not think you can beat it as Cabelas has them on sale now for $799.00
Dale
Low_Budget_Hooker reply :
QuoteVery cool but you still need somehow of running a cable steering system no?
Harness from foot control would run thru hull. Would be housed in th Piece of PVC glassed inside the hull to run all wires from bow to stern.
what reply :
just mix some of that methel ethel keton peroxide and there you go
Travlin_Man reply :
As an electric boat would be a displacement hull, wouldn't a long narrow hull be faster than a jonboat shape? Don't forget an aftermarket prop for the tm.
vincedia reply :
With my limited glass knowledge....don't you have a decent template already? You have a support system on your jon right? Take that out, spread your fiber, and glass that sucker! You could use a nice thin sheet of luan plywood. It will bend with the curves, has almost no weight, and you can remove it later to put your decking back.
Just a thought, I may be wayy off base, as I've never actually glassed anything myself, only watched as friends built panels for my car 
Vince
cart7t reply :
I'm no boat design expert but here's a thought. A normal bassboats stability at rest when fishing is due in large part to the hull width along with the amount of ballast,(ie-fiberglass hull, plus the weight of the reinforcing structural members along with the gas tank. If you minimize that ballast weight you'll have to have something to provide weight at the bottom of the boat to overcome the top heaviness of the fishermen and trolling motors on the elevated casting decks. Since you don't want to add structural members which add weight, I just don't know how stable a fiberglass shell would be.
In other words, if you took a big piece of 12" thick styrofoam, say 6' x 6' and stood on it in the water you'd probably be OK until you started moving around towards the outside edges. Then the whole thing would want to tip over. Now strap some weigts to the bottom of the foam and the thing becomes more stable because the weight on top of the foam doesnt' overcome the weight on the bottom.
Just a thought.
Low_Budget_Hooker reply :
First off. NOT A JON!!
BASS BOAT!! Just mini.
Cart, Ballast is key, been pondering that one also. Adding another batt for a 24 v motor actually helps here. Boat will have 3 batts. This is the main weight other than the hull and will need to be positioned accordingly and foamed sections of hull will need to be taken into account with ballast placement.
Would be a some trial and error here. No float tank at the house.
Having the foam come and fill the gunnels (Boston Whaler trick) is also key to adding side to side stability.
Gatorbassman reply :
Thinking outside the box again. If you are talking about a completely new boat design why not go with a completely new motor design. How about a modified golf cart motor. We've been thinking about doing this with our next Bass Tracker we find. I know it takes a lot of batteries but with the right hull design it shouldn't make that big of a difference. Right now it Doghouse's boat we are running a 64 on the front and an 80 on the back. Each use 2 batteries. We have one battery for the live well and fishfinder and we keep 2 spairs just in case. That's seven batteries and the boat runs just fine. So with a good hull design the battery weight problem can be delt with.
Low_Budget_Hooker reply :
Alternate propulsion-already there.
Been looking at "bow thrusters" for large vessels (25'-unlimited)
They come from 50-700 lbs of thrust and the biggest one is no larger than a lawnmower engine. The 250-300 lb thrust ones are the size of a large blender.
Big $$ tho.
Remeber the name thats goin' on it,...."Low Budget Baby bass Boats"
Low_Budget_Hooker reply :
Another benefit too is that if I use the same motor (family) for the front as I do in the rear, The foot pedal can toggle between both. 1 foot pedal, 2 switches, 2 harnesses, 2 motors. Make it "switchable" with a seperate foot toggle.
Gotta see if they make a 100+ and a 30-40ish that both use same pedal. Harness can be different but pedal needs to be same.
flechero reply :
QuoteFirst off. NOT A JON!!BASS BOAT!! Just mini.
Actually Skeeter made a mini... the SS90 was I think 15' or a little shorter. I bet they are within your "budget" now-a-days!! (I for some reason think they made one smaller than that, which didn't sell well)
If you are talking about an electric only... you don't need a v hull. Why not take a deep jon and flip it over and add some wood flares to the sides for width and shape. Glass it from the top... that would solve your immediate need for a true form and when your done, your original jon pops out of the new hull. (assuming you coat it to prevent bonding ) You could also run a ridge around the outer perimiter and have a good place to connect the "cap". You can build out the interior hull as you wish with livewell, storage, batt compartments etc. and then use structural foam in all the voids. Deck the top of it all as you please and go fish.
You gotta start with something... very few prototypes ever come out perfect on the first try.
Sounds like a costly endeavor but if it works out, it will be cool.
cart7t reply :
Why not just make a cat type boat with your choice of lightweight material (aluminum or plywood) spanning the 2 cat sponsons. The sponsons themselves could be extremely thin walled with the compartments built into them for batterys, tackle and rod storage. I'd probably make a battery compartment in both the front and rear of each cat sponson for a battery. The rest of the thing is yours to decide how you want to lay it out. I'm sure you could get by with some of that composite boat material that Cabela's sells by the sheet to use for bulkheads in the sponsons. fill the rest of it up with foam.
This would certainly settle any tipping problems, cat hulls are extremely stable at rest.
Low_Budget_Hooker reply :
Cart, see your avatar? take the motor off, level the floors where the consoles are and then shrink it to 12 ft. that's what I'm picturing.
guest reply :
Hey Russ does it have to be glas have you thought about kevlar or will that jack the$ too high
Travlin_Man reply :
Why not forget about tm's and an electric inboard etc. and go with an electric "outboard" ie. Briggs & Stratton or one of the others? If you want to have the best speed etc. it seems that would be the way to go and you don't have to reinvent the wheel to get there.
cart7t reply :
QuoteCart, see your avatar? take the motor off, level the floors where the consoles are and then shrink it to 12 ft. that's what I'm picturing.
Here's where the problem comes in with what you're wanting to do.
QuoteWe've seen lots and lots of conversions on here. 12's, 14's, flats, V's , modified V's, decks, no decks, you name it, we've seen 'em all. The biggest downfall of all of them is weight. The hardware weighs enough, add all that weight laden wood and there's the achille's heel. Especially for those of us who fish electric water.
You say you want to take this (my boat):
and shrink it down.
First you need to realize why my boat is designed the way it is. V hull bass boats were built to provide the best possible high-speed ride in a variety of water conditions while not compromising the fishermen a stable fishing platform at rest. The boat designers accomplished this by pushing the boat width out wide enough and using the internal ballast (weight of the sucker, ie: fiberglass, hull structural members, gas tank). My boat is a 1986 Champion 184DC. The beam is 86". Champion built this boat in response to the Skeeter Wrangler, the first true V hull bass boat. The Champion 86" hull was actually a modified HydroStream Performance boat hull redesigned for bass fishing applications. The thing rides like a dream, one of the easiest and best performing bass boat hulls ever BUT some people don't like them because of their tendency to roll if both anglers are on one side of the boat. I wouldn't call it tippiness, it's not that severe, it's just a nuance of the hull you have to get used to and a tradeoff for the great ride. Other Vhull designers have flattened out their hulls, like Ranger, which gives you a much more stable at rest platform but the big water ride suffers. The point I'm getting at is this. The V hull is probably the worst design for a bass fishing boat if the need for a smooth ride in big water isn't needed. In fact, it's the worst design and in your case with what you're wanting to do, probably not possible because you're wanting to remove the ballast of the hull which is part of what makes it stable to begin with.
Here, I think, is probably a better idea if your wanting some semblance to a Vhull bassboat but still have the fishing stability:
This Cajun (it doesn't matter the brand, all the manufacturers were making these) was the second revolution in bass boat design. It was an attempt at a Vhull bass boat. Notice the V slicing from the front to back but notice something else? Those side sponsons that ran up both sides of the hull.
These particular boats were around 74-78" wide, at least 10" wider than the previous old bathtub style, cathedral hull bass boats. The designers though, felt that a true V that wide would be too tippy so they added those side sponsons to provide stability at rest. Were these boats stable? You bet. Did they give a true, smooth, Vhull ride in rough water? Well, no. They were far better than the old bathtub style boats but those sponsons prevented the V from slicing through the waves.
If you were going to lighten the ballast of the bottom of the hull, I'd think this would be a better design if you're wanting to try and keep the thing looking like a mini-bassboat. Granted, adding the sponsons will increase the surface area of the glass and thus increase the weight of the boat hull but without them (sponsons), I'm afraid you're lightweight mini V hull would be tippy as all get out.
Low_Budget_Hooker reply :
The elec outboards are
A. big and heavy like a reg outboard (more big than heavy)
B. BIIIG money!!
Speed really isn't an issue for me, I was just thinking of the Varner guys should anyone want to replicate this when I'm done. A single 55 would do me fine but a 102 would do me better.
Good thought though, you guys are a great help with the brainstorming.
cart7t reply :
OK Russ, here's another idea you can chew on. I suggested this earlier.
A cat hull bass boat. This one is the Fast Cat bass boat.
Low_Budget_Hooker reply :
Cart- looks like we posted at the same time, oops.
I totally plan on addressing the ballast as this is the main point that I also see as my main ro***. I have 3 batteries to work with so far. Keep in mind, 1 person boat.
My buddy from Whaler says that by bringing foam up into the full gunnel, this will address some of the side tom side stability but itn will never be as stable as a real bass boat unless I go as heavy and wide. Basically the same thing you said. But he is pretty sure that it will be plenty stable enough for 1 person to fish but may take a few hull designs to get it right.
Flaring out at the top of the gunnel may be neccessary, even if it is a 4-6 inch lip around the edge of the boat, again,..all foamed. This would be a tricky part of the build. I could do it but fomimg it with the proper amount of foam without seperating the 2 shells (topdeck/hull) may be tricky.
Still thinking.
He also suggests a "flood" ballast. Certain chambers that purposely flood for stability. This approach seems a bit too techy for me.
Low_Budget_Hooker reply :
That cat is a pretty wild design!
Cat hulls are big for offshore here in New England in the last few years. The maina I keep my Whaler at is now a dealer for Glacier Bay Cats. I went for a cruise on one and was amazed. Till we turned, then I almost got spit overboard! Turning takes a little getting used to, wants to throw you as the boat does not pitch on a centerline. Amazing boats though, handle anything with ease.
The purpose of this build would only be 1/2 function, 1/2 just to do. The "one of a kind factor", the make people look twice thing. I want you to look at it and see a basss boat but then have to look back and go wait a minute,...no motor,..and hey, no consoles,...and....man....that thing is short. And then you just gotta go get a closer look.
Low_Budget_Hooker reply :
A novelty boat that actual works, in other words.
cart7t reply :
QuoteThat cat is a pretty wild design!Cat hulls are big for offshore here in New England in the last few years. The maina I keep my Whaler at is now a dealer for Glacier Bay Cats. I went for a cruise on one and was amazed. Till we turned, then I almost got spit overboard! Turning takes a little getting used to, wants to throw you as the boat does not pitch on a centerline. Amazing boats though, handle anything with ease.
The purpose of this build would only be 1/2 function, 1/2 just to do. The "one of a kind factor", the make people look twice thing. I want you to look at it and see a basss boat but then have to look back and go wait a minute,...no motor,..and hey, no consoles,...and....man....that thing is short. And then you just gotta go get a closer look.
Think bigger than that.
Design it for stability at rest for 2 people, even if it is a 12 footer. You just never know. Imagine taking orders at the boat ramp. Some unknown guy named Forrest Wood got started that way.
Low_Budget_Hooker reply :
That's what Eric was saying, 12' is 12'. He said if you and I can fish in this 12' space with no issue, why couldn't we do it on that, just because it is all deck?
The only answer I see is that the forward position will be slightly further back than on a jon to accomodate for the pointed bow of a bass boat as opposed to the squared bow of a jon.
guest reply :
Hey Russ if you go to Cabelas or BPS sites and type in Pond boats there are several more like this I know its not glass but they may give you some layout ideas and all are prewired for and aft for trolling motors
cart7t reply :
There ya go. It has a V with sponsons. Get rid of the open area and you've got a little mini-aircraft carrier. ;D
Low_Budget_Hooker reply :
I want to turn this
into somthing like this
but with a better paint job,lol.
Cart-the tri-hull would start it's taper approximately underneath where the leaning post is.
KU_Bassmaster. reply :
Man, I have really enjoyed reading this post and seeing the plan come together. Hope you go ahead and do it, and if you pull it off and everything is okay ..... You might have an order coming from Kansas ...... among other places I would guess. ;D ;D
Also, in your model pic ....... Why would you want to get rid of the open area in the middle?? IMO that space is VERY valuable ...... I think you do as well. At least that's what you told me when I took on my project earlier this year. :
When this whole thing started, I was kind of imagining something kind of like muddy's pic, but with some LBH details.
cart7t reply :
Hmmm....
Looks like a typical summer weekend on Lake of the Ozarks.
Low_Budget_Hooker reply :
Both light grey areas would be huge dry lockers
Those run stern ---> Bow.
The Low Budget Hookers emblem sits on another storage compartment that runs side to side. This one would hold a dozen big plano 3700's (will have the slots for them) or can be used as 3rd dry locker.
One of the dry lockers can have a drain plug and aerator added easily if a livewell is needed. Drain plug will go in one of mine, Just in case. Aerator can always come later. It's only a short run to the electricity which is 3 batt's, lined straight up the middle.
proposed storage in white boxes
cart7t reply :
QuoteI want to turn this
into somthing like this
but with a better paint job,lol.
Cart-the tri-hull would start it's taper approximately underneath where the leaning post is.
I'm still not sure why you're holding onto the extreme V hull design. Yes, it's gonna look like a modern day bass boat but the hull design itself is the way it is due to the picture you just posted and no other reason. For fishing stability, a V hull has little functionality. In fact, because of the V, you're losing valuable deck room not to mention potential storage space.
Low_Budget_Hooker reply :
Goal is to try and have novelty meet function in the middle somewhere.
cart7t reply :
I still say the Cat style hull would REALLY turn some heads. 8-)
KU_Bassmaster. reply :
I think what cart is trying to say is ....... This is obviously going to take A LOT of hard work. When you get done, wouldn't you rather have something function a lot better than it looks. I mean, what is the point at having a boat you can only look at??
Low_Budget_Hooker reply :
Oh believe me, If I build it, it will be more than fishable!! This won't sit on a shelf.
I think his point is that I could have more space and more room with other designs. Totally true but I would be willing to sacrifice some of those for novelty. I'm also the guy who takes very little on board. I don't even own a tackle box, all my tackle stores under my front seat,lol
My biggest concern is having a dry bag to keep my camera and next set of clothes dry. With this set up, I'll have much more DRY storage.
Look at the 2 side by side,...pretty similar.
burleytog reply :
Quote
Hmmm....
Looks like a typical summer weekend on Lake of the Ozarks.
I'd need a new seat, underwear, and a water hose if I was running like that.
cart7t reply :
QuoteQuote
Hmmm....
Looks like a typical summer weekend on Lake of the Ozarks.
I'd need a new seat, underwear, and a water hose if I was running like that.
I'm not kidding either.
Raul reply :
Can I place an order like .......right now Low_Budget ?
guest reply :
Hey LBH you already got Raul's monkey drooling ;D
Siebert Outdoors reply :
LBH you could buy a Ranger and cut it in half. They float up right.
Cart7 Yep. Up on the osage or glaze it looks pretty typical.
NJfishinGuy reply :
man on man LBH im really really into this idea you got goin reading thru off the ideas has got me so hyped to see your work. i love the pic u made of the little bass boat it looks awsome. sense you want a vhull look maybe you could make it a little more older style V lookin to make it slightly more stable
example this kinda bass boat shape opposed to the very pointy front
Zel... reply :
Hey LBH... why not go for broke!
Here is a model that will increase your catch ratio tremendously with your lookout person located beneath in the mini sub. Just think about it. CAST A LITTLE TO THE LEFT OVER!
And let's not even discuss the underwater videos we'll all start to see.
Low_Budget_Hooker reply :
underwater video,....hmmmmm
KU_Bassmaster. reply :
Quoteunderwater video,....hmmmmm
I am working on underwater pictures as we speak. With your clear water you should be able to take some cool pics no problem. Supposedly this camera will take pics up to 50 ft.
http://www.cameras101.com/Kodak-Disposable-underwater-Cameras.html
Unerwater video might cost some serious $$$$$$$$$$$$$.
what reply :
lbh this is a sick thread
Bassassasin12 reply :
like this boat???
http://www.1stdirectproducts.com/mininpowboat.html
except with a deck?
cart7t reply :
That little tunnel hull boat your link points to would be perfect. Again, wide front deck with cat sponsons to stabilize the thing. I'm afraid the first video LBH does on that pointy nose mini V hull will be eligible for Americas Funniest home video's.
Raul reply :
Mini boat, 4,300 bones; then : All you need is a 50 HP outboard motor and a need for speed.... I don't understand ? , all I need is a 50 hp :, man with all I need plus the 4,300 bones the boat is worth I could have purchased a fully rigged aluminum bassboat or a smaller fully rigged glass boat for staters.
The catch is to build an affordable fully rigged mini bass boat.
Wohoo ! I think I found a hull:
Nick_Barr reply :
LBH, if you want to go with the bass boat in half Idea. I would check out if there are some other bass boats in the area and ask the people if you could please make a template of their hull or at least a picture, then interview them on the fishability when up on front, then start from there.
COOL IDEA!!!!
RollONTwo reply :
This is one of the best threads I have seen since joining this forum. It is great to see so many ideas, really makes you think. With that being said I have to agree with Cart. I can picture my 17'6" Nitro cut down to 12' from the back to front and I see no way to make the boat stable enough to stand on the front decking. I can see the boat tiping over forward in my minds eye. However LBH if you can pull off that look (little bass boat look) with stability it will sell I have no doubt.
Raul reply :
From here he got the idea, the catch is that the boat in the thread is a carbon fiber boat, lot$$$$$$$$$ of dough.
Low_Budget_Hooker reply :
Raul- That would be a perfect hull to mold from! Make/model?
Raul reply :
Got the pic from Bassassasin 's link LBH, just don 't ask me specifically from which of the multiple manufacturers cuz I don 't remember, I just browsed and there it was. Click where it says "Boats by Brand" on the left and good luck browsing, there 's a lot stuff there.
Bassassasin12 reply :
its a sandpiper 8 dinghy, made for like whitewater boating I think.
Bassassasin12 reply :
its also only 8 feet long.
what about this???
http://www.1stdirectproducts.com/pro120boattr.html
BassNut reply :
Here's what I've been using. It's a wavewalker.
I'm now adding a trolling motor, which I'm gonna test today.
And here's a picture of the trailer I updated this week so I don't have to put it on my roof top.
Motor mount is on & getting ready for my test drive.
The boat is 52lbs, the hulls have lots of storage, I can stand (I use Outriggers)
you can stand with out them, but you better have good balance.
I got rid of my yak because it's so hard to get in and out of.
This boat is a very easy entry & exit. I love it!
Keithscatch reply :
Man, Russ. A V hull is a horrible option for a small boat. One time I took my 20' Skeeter out in the Gulf near Pensacola. My friend was with me and we followed his friend out. We didn't go far but it was sort of rough. Anyway, we were sitting still as my friend was rigging up his boat. I elbowed my friend and said look at them. They were rocking around like crazy going side to side in the waves. he had a V hull bow rider style boat. Great rough water driving but stupid silly for sitting still. My boat was hardly rocking. It was so dramatic it was crazy seeing the two boats side by side.
Point Cart and I are ma,king is your boat is not going to cut through rough water. It is suppose to be sitting still. Making a v-hull in any form will mean making your boat very tippy. There is a reason Jon boats are flat. It is to make them more stable. If making a v-hull that small was possible then believe me others would have done it by now. Plus, adding a deck on top means even more height which is more tippy then sitting down inside of a canoe for example. Imagine making a deck on a canoe. Now try to stand on that sucker. Whoopsy there you go.
A tri hull makes more sense if you really want the look sideways at least of a bass boat. Personally I would make it flat till about the front then make that a v-hull. That way you have a good portion of the back that is flat and more stable and the front would be narrow and more v-shaped.
Also, another idea for the decking is to make the top deck slide shut. You can have an open compartment in the middle. Just slide the deck like a sliding glass door over the decking in the front. Then slide it back to lock it in place to make a 1 piece looking deck. That would give you dry storage and lots of places to fit tackle etc.
Cool idea but loose the V-hull idea. Not a good plan if you ask me.
Low_Budget_Hooker reply :
yea, makes sense.
hotwheels reply :
I found this from Tackle Tour. The dealer price is $5400.
http://megabass.co.jp/product_detail.php?keyid=153&item1=9
1440MM, 57" (5ft) X 143" (11.91')
38kg = 84LBS
Not bad, but it looks wider.
JayDub reply :
Hey LBH this caught my eye as I was searching used boats near home. It's like a small 14 ft bass boat i guess? I don't know what the inside looks like but maybe you could deck it out?
http://dallas.craigslist.org/boa/221027584.html
hotwheels reply :
These may be of some interest.
http://www.glen-l.com/submethd.html
http://www.glen-l.com/methods/mthdfg01.html
http://www.boatdesign.net/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=20
http://www.freepatentsonline.com/6314906.html
GA BASS HUNTER reply :
QuoteI was reading Rauls post about the carbon fiber megabass jon boat and it got me to thinking.First I was thinking of a fiberglass jon boat but if I were going to go that route, why not just make it bass boat shaped but keep it to 12-14 ft and have all deck (no consoles) and elec only. Or it could be done like the megabass boat with a 6-10 hp and a channel for your legs.
Wouldn't that be cool on Varner or my place or any of the elec only lakes? A 12 ft bass boat.
Any fiberglass workers out there that could give me appx hull weights on somthing like this? Keep in mind, they don't have to be thick. Bracing can be glassed in for torsional rigidity. These won't be pounding waves, a rib system isn't even neccessary.
Input guys??
I THINK I'VE GOT THE HULL DESIGN YOUR LOOKING FOR,IT'S A 2000CLAYMONT 14'- 60"WIDE BUILT IN DESTIN FLA.ALL YOU WOULD NEED TO DO IS THE DECKS AND THERE IS A LIP ALL THE WAY AROUND THE INSIDE FOR THAT TO SIT ON...JUST REMOVE THE SEATS AND THE SEAT PEDASTALS CAN ALSO SUPPORT THE CENTER PART OF THE DECK....NO IT'S NOT FOR SALE,BUT IT DOES FISH GREAT WITH 2 65LBS ON THE BACK AND A 28 ON THE FRONT...MAY DO THE DECKS LATER BUT IT HAS A FLAT FLOOR SO IT REALLY DOESN'T NEED DECKS
GA BASS HUNTER reply :
HERE'S THE INSIDE
GA BASS HUNTER reply :
AND ANOTHER WITHOUT ALL MY JUNK IN THE BACKGROUND
GA BASS HUNTER reply :
I THINK IT ONLY WEIGHS ABOUT 350LBS!!!!!! AND WITH THE SEATING THE WAY IT IS THE BALLAST IS DOWN IN THE BOAT SO IT IS VERY,VERY STABLE EVEN WITH BOTH FISHERMAN STAND AND CASTING....ALSO WILL TAKE UP TO 25HP MOTOR...GOT IT ON E BAY FROM AN OLD MAN HERE IN GA. WHO'S SON OWNED A MARINA IN DESTIN WHERE THEY WERE MADE
surfer reply :
Forgive me if I am of topic or repeat something, but I just read the first page of this thread and something jumped out at me. If you are building a boat with electric motor only I think it is a safe assumption it will never be on plane. If that is the case then you can eliminate a lot of drag by changing the back of the boat from square to round. Not specifically round, but a design that would give a smooth release to the water. The square back with a sharp bottom corner is designed for a quick release of the water that is trying to stick to it when on plane.
For a slower boat that is not intended to get on plane a canoe shape is much more efficient. I am not recommending a canoe specifically, but a canoe is a prime example of drag efficiency at a fast paddling speed. A 40lb thrust trolling motor took me a little bit faster in a canoe than me and another buddy could row it.
Since you are not trying to get on plane you want something that will disturb the water the least. Such as while canoeing the quieter you are the more efficient you are. Not necessarily faster, but more efficient. The more white water you make behind you the more energy it takes away from your system to make that white water.
Two canoes strapped together with a deck mounted across could be a fairly cheap test of the trailing edge drag efficiency concept and it would have grate stability like a pontoon. I know, every one would laugh.
Those little one person sailboats come to mind also.
Low_Budget_Hooker reply :
Good point surfer but that sure would be a perfect hull to use as a mock up for a mold! Nice find.
hotwheels reply :
I remember posting about these awhile ago. Souther boats of Japan came out with a 370 model. A 12' V hull that is 60" wide, is rated for an 18HP motor, and weighs 300lbs. Comes with three storage compartments for the batery / gas tank in the rear, livewell, and tackle storage. It would be nice if it had a rod locker. It looks like a mini Ranger VS.
http://translate.google.com/translate?hl=en&sl=ja&u=http://www.souther.org/&sa=X&oi=translate&resnum=1&ct=result&prev=/search%3Fq%3Dsouther%2Bboats%26hl%3Den%26ie%3DUTF-8
http://www.souther.org/news/SOUTHER370.pdf
snapperd1 reply :
LBH,
What you want to do is build a displacement hull. Think river barge. If you can imagine you want a boat that is basicly a large rectalgle that has both ends turned up like the bow section of a jon boat. What you would do is distribute all the weight in the middle of the boat and then put what ever motors you want on the thing. In theory a non planning hull is only going to be able to go so fast. And building a planing hull to run on electric is awaist of time. Unless you are using a hydrogen fuel cell to power a large AC motor you will not beable to generate enough power to plane the boat. There was a guy who use to fish one of the local lakes near me that had a boat built just likeI described and he ran one of the electric outboards on it. It was a very stable and very fast boat. If you look up Ray electric outboards they have agood article on displacment hulls and their efficency.
TD
alhuff reply :
LBH, I love the idea......
I saw a show where they were making the larger glass boats and they were making it in two sections, the bottom and then the top and joining the two.
Would this work the same way?
You could make a mold for the top half and then for the bottom half and join the two.
You could mold in any supports that would be necessary and a live well, slead batt box, and any wiring could be done before the halves are joined.
Now you have my gears in gear,
Alfred
nyleved reply :
You might want to look at a Gheenoe.
http://www.customgheenoe.com/
http://www.gheenoe.net/
rvrnr64 reply :
I don't know what price range you're looking at and if you're deadset on making it yourself but I've got a 12' Porta-Bote and it does great on the rivers here in VA. I've also had it on a lake and did really well there too. I've got a 6hp Nissan pushing it and imagine a decent size trolling motor would push it pretty good on a pond or lake. The hull itself weighs 69lbs but that doesn't include the seats. I put the hull on top of my Jeep and all the seats inside. I didn't read all the posts so I don't know if anyone else has suggested this but I just thought I'd give you another option. If you want to look at it go to Porta-Bote.com. Let me know what you think.
Low_Budget_Hooker reply :
rvrnr- I actually have a few boats already, this is just a "what if" or a "how would I" thread. I just thought it was a cool idea for smaller water or electric only water boaters to look into.
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