My Ranger Is Taking On Water, Why? 2024
Golffnutt reply :
Hi Everyone,
Hope someone can help me here, I am going crazy over this problem. Just purchased a flawless, one owner, 1996 Ranger 364V and took it out this weekend for the first time other than the test drive. It is taking on water like crazy, both when I run it and when parked in the water. I don't know why, although I am sure it is me doing something wrong (yes the boat plug is in and tight). I parked it in a covered boat slip last night and emptied the boat with the bilge pump, took almost 5 minutes to empty it. Left it parked under the covered boat slip overnight, it did not rain yet when I went back the next morning I had a small amount of water in the floor of the boat where the boat had filled with water overnight. I emptied it with the bilge pump before going on the water, it again took almost 5 minutes to empty the water. What is going on, why is this happening, is this normal to take on this much water when running the boat and also when the boat is parked in a covered slip? Please, I need your help and advice on what to do. Thank you so much for your reply and have a wonderful and blessed day.
Rick
Smokinal reply :
Not to try to pawn you off but my first call would be to whoever sold you said flawless Ranger.
joefish reply :
Check all the plumbing hoses on the live wells and the bilge system. Probably have a bad hose with a boat that olds.
Golffnutt reply :
On 9/29/2015 at 10:34 PM, Smokinal said:Not to try to pawn you off but my first call would be to whoever sold you said flawless Ranger.
Had it checked it out by my local Ranger Dealer and he said in his own words after inspecting the boat thoroughly, "the boat is in excellent condition and I can find nothing wrong with it, buy it quickly before someone else does"
Golffnutt reply :
On 9/29/2015 at 10:38 PM, joefish said:Check all the plumbing hoses on the live wells and the bilge system. Probably have a bad hose with a boat that olds.
Did that, no problems there.
tomustang reply :
Take the boat out of the water and see if it pours out from anywhere
Golffnutt reply :
On 9/29/2015 at 10:43 PM, tomustang said:Take the boat out of the water and see if it pours out from anywhere
Did that too, did not see anything out of the normal here either.
tomustang reply :
Check the livewell intake pumps/connection s. I don't know how yours work but I've seen ones where a pump housing was cracked and constantly leaks water into the bilge area whenever it was in the water
Nick B reply :
I once found leaks in my boat by filling the boat with water, I did this at home after the trailer was dry so I could see where the leaks were a lot easier.
desmobob reply :
On 9/29/2015 at 10:38 PM, joefish said:Check all the plumbing hoses on the live wells and the bilge system. Probably have a bad hose with a boat that olds.
+1
Completely seal off your live well intake (any below-waterline intakes) and see if the leak stops. My buddy's brand new Smoker Craft sank at his dock twice due to live well system leaks. I started calling it a "Snorkel Craft."
Tight lines,
Bob
J Francho reply :
Yep, plug the live well ports, and I bet you have your answer.
mike1950 reply :
My Ranger Bass Master Classic did this same thing after a few years. Did the tests others have said and couldn't find leak. A friend and I put it in the water and turned on and checked everything. FINALLY discovered that it WAS the livewell pump. When it cycled on it had a leak in the pump.
You could not see anythig when it was off, the leak was almost invisible but it would accumulate a lot of water over night. Replaced the pump and never had a problem again. Apparently the vibration from trailering had managed to crack it.
Ski213 reply :
I'd agree with everybody else. Plumbing leaks can be tough to find. The pumps and valves get pretty brittle with age.
I'd get the boat totally dry and then put it in the slip and just watch the bilge like a hawk. Wiggle the hoses and such a little. It's amazing how hard it can be to find one sometimes. I don't know where the waterline falls in relation to the transom tie downs but that might be something to look at. As has been suggested already plugging off the thru hull fittings is time well spent. It can eliminate a lot of potential problem areas. If that doesn't stop it you're at least narrowed way down.
Another thing to check on a boat that age would be the underside of the rub rail. Probably not your current problem since it takes on water sitting still, but you can take on a bunch of water when underway if there's not a good seal.
Smokinal reply :
On 9/29/2015 at 10:42 PM, golffnutt said:Had it checked it out by my local Ranger Dealer and he said in his own words after inspecting the boat thoroughly, "the boat is in excellent condition and I can find nothing wrong with it, buy it quickly before someone else does"
I wasn't bustin on your new boat bro. What I was getting at was if there was something the old owner knew that he had an issue with or something you are doing that he would say "Oh ya, don't do it like that" or something of the likes.
Golffnutt reply :
On 9/29/2015 at 11:11 PM, Nick B said:I once found leaks in my boat by filling the boat with water, I did this at home after the trailer was dry so I could see where the leaks were a lot easier.
How did you fill up the boat with water, just pour it into the floor drain holes?
gardnerjigman reply :
On 9/29/2015 at 11:46 PM, J Francho said:Yep, plug the live well ports, and I bet you have your answer.
This for sure. Seal it off and go fishing. If you get water in the boat still then pull the boat out and see if you can spot where it is coming from. It has to be something pretty obvious and big to fill that fast with water... I've had bilge and livewell pumps loose seal and let water by before.
slimshad reply :
Alot of times it is the top of the transom. Another is the rub rail. Buddy has a 1998 and it was both. All in the rear area. Good luck. You will find it and have a great boat for years to come.
Crappiebasser reply :
I agree with plugging the live wells. Also check the insert the drain plug goes into. I have seen them break lose and leak around the outside edge.
waterdog1 reply :
My first bet would be the livewell system. Second I would check the seal & torque of the engine mount bolts.
Nick B reply :
On 9/30/2015 at 3:38 AM, golffnutt said:How did you fill up the boat with water, just pour it into the floor drain holes?
My bilge area was easily accessible, so I put a garden hose in there with the drain plug installed, and the boat level and filled up the bilge area.
Golffnutt reply :
Thanks so much to everyone with you thoughts, comments, and suggestions. I am going to try plugging the live wells and see if that works, if not then I will take the monetary plunge and take it to the dealer ($90 an hour), tough on this old disabled social security income only boy. Quite honestly I know so little about a boat that I don't know where to check half the stuff suggested by you guys. I do know this though. I turned on both rear live well aerators today to check them out. I got sound and pipe vibration from the port side but no sound or vibration at all on the starboard side. Does that mean I probably need a new starboard side aerator? I'm thinking I do and it looks really tough to get to, don't think I can install a new one myself. Both aerators are in the battery compartment, very tight squeeze and the aerators are almost on the bottom of the boat.
spartyon8 reply :
My livewell hose split under the floor. There was no way for me to "see" it with a normal inspection. Just a thought.
Ski213 reply :
Could be the pump is bad, could also be electrical in nature. Check for power at the pump first. If you've got power it's most likely the pump. If you don't have power it could be a bad connection, blown, fuse, or switch. I made the mistake of assuming I had a bad pump last year. Replaced it only to find out a connection failed between Thursday night and Friday morning.
Ski213 reply :
Also, if there's anything somebody is telling you to check and you don't know how or where just ask. In my experience everybody here just wants to help.
Lil Joe The Grinder reply :
Could be as simple as the transducer screws need silicon. Don't know if it has a transducer screwed in the back but I've had that problem before. Best of luck to ya.
Golffnutt reply :
On 9/30/2015 at 3:52 AM, gardnerjigman said:This for sure. Seal it off and go fishing. If you get water in the boat still then pull the boat out and see if you can spot where it is coming from. It has to be something pretty obvious and big to fill that fast with water... I've had bilge and livewell pumps loose seal and let water by before.
How and what do I seal off? Are you talking about the rear live wells, if so how do I seal them off? I also have a front live well (or I think it is a live well), do I need to seal it off? Thanks so much for your time and help gardnerjigman.
Golffnutt reply :
On 9/30/2015 at 4:07 AM, Crappiebasser said:I agree with plugging the live wells. Also check the insert the drain plug goes into. I have seen them break lose and leak around the outside edge.
How do I plug the live wells Crappiebasser? What happens when I catch fish and need a live well, if they are plugged then I would assume they are not usable, right?
Golffnutt reply :
On 9/30/2015 at 5:20 AM, Nick B said:My bilge area was easily accessible, so I put a garden hose in there with the drain plug installed, and the boat level and filled up the bilge area.
Anyone else have a 364V like me that can tell me where the bilge area is and if it is easily accessible?
Golffnutt reply :
On 9/30/2015 at 4:00 AM, slimshad said:Alot of times it is the top of the transom. Another is the rub rail. Buddy has a 1998 and it was both. All in the rear area. Good luck. You will find it and have a great boat for years to come.
How can I tell if it is the transom or the rub rail?
Golffnutt reply :
On 9/30/2015 at 4:07 AM, Crappiebasser said:I agree with plugging the live wells. Also check the insert the drain plug goes into. I have seen them break lose and leak around the outside edge.
Previous owner has put silicone around the outer edges of the boat plug hole to keep it from letting water in.
Al Wolbach reply :
On 9/30/2015 at 11:34 PM, Golffnutt said:How do I plug the live wells Crappiebasser? What happens when I catch fish and need a live well, if they are plugged then I would assume they are not usable, right?
The water inlet for the live wells should be the hole next to the drain plug. It probably is not threaded so you will need an adjustable drain plug to stick in the hole. On my boat the cooler drain plugs will work, not sure on a Ranger. You can get an adjustable drain plug at Walmart or you can trim a cork stopper. Anything that will stop up the hole that you can remove later. Go fishing, release your fish, then check for water after the trip. If little or no water present, your live well plumbing is the problem. There is almost always a little water in the bilge if the boat was used recently.
One other source of water that know one has mentioned is your coolers. If you drain your coolers this water goes to the bilge and is removed by pulling the drain plug or using the bilge pump....
Crappiebasser reply :
On 9/30/2015 at 11:41 PM, Golffnutt said:Previous owner has put silicone around the outer edges of the boat plug hole to keep it from letting water in.
That sounds suspect that they felt they needed to do that. Put the boat on the trailer open the back hatch where your batteries are and put a water hose in the very bottom. Let it fill until it gets to the battery tray level. I bet you see it start leaking.
Golffnutt reply :
On 10/1/2015 at 3:16 AM, Crappiebasser said:That sounds suspect that they felt they needed to do that. Put the boat on the trailer open the back hatch where your batteries are and put a water hose in the very bottom. Let it fill until it gets to the battery tray level. I bet you see it start leaking.
I assume I should put the drain plug in? Where do you think the leak will be?
Golffnutt reply :
On 10/1/2015 at 12:49 AM, Al Wolbach said:The water inlet for the live wells should be the hole next to the drain plug. It probably is not threaded so you will need an adjustable drain plug to stick in the hole. On my boat the cooler drain plugs will work, not sure on a Ranger. You can get an adjustable drain plug at Walmart or you can trim a cork stopper. Anything that will stop up the hole that you can remove later. Go fishing, release your fish, then check for water after the trip. If little or no water present, your live well plumbing is the problem. There is almost always a little water in the bilge if the boat was used recently.
One other source of water that know one has mentioned is your coolers. If you drain your coolers this water goes to the bilge and is removed by pulling the drain plug or using the bilge pump....
I'm confused. You say to plug the live well inlet hole but then you say "if little or no water present, your live well plumbing is the problem". If you plug the live well inlet hole then of course there is not going to be water present so why do you say it is the live well plumbing? Water can't possibly get to the live wells if you plug the live well inlet hole next to the drain plug. My boat has the main drain plug, on both sides of the main drain plug are the 2 live well outlet holes which have plastic screens on them. Next to the live well outlet hole (the one to the right of the main drain plug) is the live well inlet hole. These are the only 4 holes on the bottom of my boat.
desmobob reply :
On 10/1/2015 at 9:05 PM, Golffnutt said:I'm confused. You say to plug the live well inlet hole but then you say "if little or no water present, your live well plumbing is the problem". If you plug the live well inlet hole then of course there is not going to be water present so why do you say it is the live well plumbing? Water can't possibly get to the live wells if you plug the live well inlet hole next to the drain plug. My boat has the main drain plug, on both sides of the main drain plug are the 2 live well outlet holes which have plastic screens on them. Next to the live well outlet hole (the one to the right of the main drain plug) is the live well inlet hole. These are the only 4 holes on the bottom of my boat.
You're using the process of elimination to find the leak. If you plug off the live well inlets and outlets, then put the boat in the water and it doesn't leak, then you know it's not the hull that's leaking; it's the live well plumbing. If it still takes on water with the inlets/outlets plugged, you know you have a leak in the hull.
Tight lines,
Bob
Golffnutt reply :
On 10/1/2015 at 9:51 PM, desmobob said:You're using the process of elimination to find the leak. If you plug off the live well inlets and outlets, then put the boat in the water and it doesn't leak, then you know it's not the hull that's leaking; it's the live well plumbing. If it still takes on water with the inlets/outlets plugged, you know you have a leak in the hull.
Tight lines,
Bob
Thanks Bob for the explanation. I know how to plug the live well inlet on the bottom outside of boat but how do I plug the outlets? If they are where I think they are (right next to the main boat drain plug) then I can't plug them on the outside of the boat because they have a plastic screen on them which does not look to be removeable. Where else besides here can I plug the outlet plugs? Are there not other areas that could cause the leak besides just the hull and live wells/live well plumbing, ie rub rail and some of the other areas as mentioned by some of the fellows within this post? Thanks again for your help.
J Francho reply :
The pump out "outlet" would be above the water line, to prevent siphoning. If what you see near the plug has a screen, it is undoubtably an intake for the pump or gravity feed, both for filling the live well. Screens are almost always removable for cleaning.
Sounds to me you need someone experienced to help you onsite. Anyone close by to give the man a helping hand?
noway reply :
Golffnutt. Sell your boat and start fishing from shore. Less headaches, for everybody.
Ratherbfishing reply :
On 9/29/2015 at 11:08 PM, tomustang said:Check the livewell intake pumps/connection s. I don't know how yours work but I've seen ones where a pump housing was cracked and constantly leaks water into the bilge area whenever it was in the water
Agreed. Definitely check this. In "my" case, it was a rusted out hose clamp ona livewell hose. We came REAL close to sinking.
Lund Explorer reply :
On 10/1/2015 at 10:24 PM, Golffnutt said:Thanks Bob for the explanation. I know how to plug the live well inlet on the bottom outside of boat but how do I plug the outlets? If they are where I think they are (right next to the main boat drain plug) then I can't plug them on the outside of the boat because they have a plastic screen on them which does not look to be removeable. Where else besides here can I plug the outlet plugs? Are there not other areas that could cause the leak besides just the hull and live wells/live well plumbing, ie rub rail and some of the other areas as mentioned by some of the fellows within this post? Thanks again for your help.
The live wells on a 300 series Ranger drained back out of the intakes only.
One thing I didn't see mentioned here is the chance that the leak is coming from around the intake fixture that is going through the hull. It is fairly easy to unscrew these fixtures on the inside of the hull, clean off the old caulking, and put a new silicone bead on both sides of the hull before tightening the fixtures back down.
You may also want to look at the drain line connections on the bottom of the live wells themselves. They're harder to get at, but it could be another source of leakage.
Fishing Rhino reply :
Here's a hint for all through hull fittings.
To make an absolute, lasting seal with silicone, put a quarter inch bead on the inside of the hull around the hole, and a quarter inch bead on the flange of the through hull fitting.
Snug it down by hand until it starts to ooze out around the fitting. Do not tighten it more. Allow it to sit a day or two for the silicone to set up. Then you can tighten it to your heart's content. It will not/cannot ooze out.
If you tighten it down with fresh silicone you'll squeeze it out and may not have a good seal.
I learned that trick from a tech at a boat yard. I installed new lexan windows in my lobster boat. I put a good bead of silicone around the opening and screwed the windows tight, squeezing out most of the lexan. A year later the windows started to seep water when taking heavy spray running into the waves.
I mentioned it to the tech and he told me the trick of not doing the final tightening until the silicone had set up. I ended up with a one sixteenth inch thick silicone gasket that could only be compressed, not force out around the edges.
I kept the boat another ten years and never had a drop get past the silicone gasket.
Ski213 reply :
^ that's a good tip. I'm gonna try that for sure. Probably not as bad to deal with down the road as using the 3m 5200 either.
WRB reply :
The transom of the boat could be glassed over wood, don't remember what year Ranger went to all glass transoms, I believe it was late 80's? Anyway the previous owner has tried to seal the intake or drain port for a reason. You need to take it to the dealer who suggested that you buy it and have them check the pumping system, livewells and bilge, including all the hose connections and the engine mount bolts. The older Ranger's are difficult to work in the rear compartment, the batteries need to be removes to get to some of the pump connectors etc. This boat has a major leak that needs to be fixed before it's back on the water.
You know the bilge pump works! The screens usually screw off like a jar lid for cleaning. It sounds like a broken connection hose fitting to me, either the thru hull fitting or one of the livewell fill fittings.
Good luck!
Tom
Skeeter Dan reply :
When buying a used boat your taking a gamble. Your buying some bodies head ache . If your not mechanically incline your going to spend a lot of money. Since the late seventies I've own Three Ski boats, One Jet boat and Two Bass boats. All used! I 've had to work on all of them. My 1993 Skeeter takes on water too. I have two intake line for front and back live wells and two drain lines. In order to fix mine I'm going to have to pull the top half off. if not I will just keep plugging the drain lines because that's where its leaking.
Golffnutt reply :
On 10/4/2015 at 5:17 AM, WRB said:The transom of the boat could be glassed over wood, don't remember what year Ranger went to all glass transoms, I believe it was late 80's? Anyway the previous owner has tried to seal the intake or drain port for a reason. You need to take it to the dealer who suggested that you buy it and have them check the pumping system, livewells and bilge, including all the hose connections and the engine mount bolts. The older Ranger's are difficult to work in the rear compartment, the batteries need to be removes to get to some of the pump connectors etc. This boat has a major leak that needs to be fixed before it's back on the water.
You know the bilge pump works! The screens usually screw off like a jar lid for cleaning. It sounds like a broken connection hose fitting to me, either the thru hull fitting or one of the livewell fill fittings.
Good luck!
Tom
Golffnutt reply :
Thanks Tom. I'm having dealer install all new live well parts including all new hoses, pvc elbow fittings, new valves, new aerators. Hopefully this will stop the water from coming in. Gonna cost me about $450.
Golffnutt reply :
On 10/4/2015 at 6:11 AM, Skeeter Dan said:When buying a used boat your taking a gamble. Your buying some bodies head ache . If your not mechanically incline your going to spend a lot of money. Since the late seventies I've own Three Ski boats, One Jet boat and Two Bass boats. All used! I 've had to work on all of them. My 1993 Skeeter takes on water too. I have two intake line for front and back live wells and two drain lines. In order to fix mine I'm going to have to pull the top half off. if not I will just keep plugging the drain lines because that's where its leaking.
Golffnutt reply :
Thanks Dan. Please see my comments just above this post to Tom.
Golffnutt reply :
On 10/3/2015 at 3:50 PM, Lund Explorer said:The live wells on a 300 series Ranger drained back out of the intakes only.
One thing I didn't see mentioned here is the chance that the leak is coming from around the intake fixture that is going through the hull. It is fairly easy to unscrew these fixtures on the inside of the hull, clean off the old caulking, and put a new silicone bead on both sides of the hull before tightening the fixtures back down.
You may also want to look at the drain line connections on the bottom of the live wells themselves. They're harder to get at, but it could be another source of leakage.
Golffnutt reply :
Mine definitely has specific Inlet lines for live wells and specific outlet lines for the live wells.
Good idea on resealing the inlet and outlet fixtures I will do that. What kind of silicone should I use, something like GE Bathroom? Thanks for the suggestions.
Golffnutt reply :
Where are the thru hull fittings located that you guys are referring to that I should check? What kind of silicone should I use to reseal fittings, etc., GE Bathroom found at Lowes?
Ski213 reply :
I'm trying to attatch a picture. Not sure if its gonna work. It's not your hull and its terrible since I took it using a flashlight but maybe it'll help. There are four thru hull fittings that you can see. Outside right and left that have the strainer, those are intakes for the livewells, the two in the middle are livewell drains. Yours may be different but shouldn't be much different. If I were to unscrew the strainers on mine and plug all four hull fittings , I would be isolating my livewell plumbing from lake water.
Golffnutt reply :
On 10/4/2015 at 8:39 AM, Ski213 said:I'm trying to attatch a picture. Not sure if its gonna work. It's not your hull and its terrible since I took it using a flashlight but maybe it'll help. There are four thru hull fittings that you can see. Outside right and left that have the strainer, those are intakes for the livewells, the two in the middle are livewell drains. Yours may be different but shouldn't be much different. If I were to unscrew the strainers on mine and plug all four hull fittings , I would be isolating my livewell plumbing from lake water.
Golffnutt reply :
Thanks Dink for the info. Mehy configuration is a little different. The 2 live well intakes are on the left and right of the main drain plug. The live well outlet drain hose (only 1) is to the right of all holes on the outside bottom of the transom.
joefish reply :
Golfnutt, bring that boat to Kansas City and I'll be glad to help you find your leak. Sounds like you need some on site assistance.
We can resolve your light issues at the same time.
Ski213 reply :
If you're going to take it to a dealer or mechanic don't tell them to replace all the livewell stuff. Tom is telling you to have them check the fittings and hoses. I think there's a good chance that replacing will fix it but its a gamble. There are times when you have to throw parts at something to hopefully fix it. I don't think that's your particular case. Tell them to find the problem. Testing on the water is best in my opinion but all the livewells, livewell fittings, and thru hull fittings can be tested out of the water.
Regardless of how you attack it, you definitely need to get it taken care of. Wood is more susceptible to water than glass but glass can also be damaged in certain situations. Water can be wicked between glass mats and cause de-lamination.
Golffnutt reply :
Thanks Dink, I am definitely getting it fixed before it goes in the water again.
Golffnutt reply :
I may just take you up on that offer if I can't get it fixed within the week. I need a little vacation anyway.
Fishing Rhino reply :
On 10/4/2015 at 5:01 AM, Ski213 said:^ that's a good tip. I'm gonna try that for sure. Probably not as bad to deal with down the road as using the 3m 5200 either.
I love 3M 5200. It cannot be beat. But, I do not recommend using it on thru-hull fittings, among other places. Once it sets, and has a good bond, it can only be removed mechanically, by cutting, grinding or some other destructive method.
It's like the stuff is welded. Don't put it on anything that may need to be taken apart down the road.
Fishing Rhino reply :
On 10/4/2015 at 9:32 AM, Ski213 said:If you're going to take it to a dealer or mechanic don't tell them to replace all the livewell stuff. Tom is telling you to have them check the fittings and hoses. I think there's a good chance that replacing will fix it but its a gamble. There are times when you have to throw parts at something to hopefully fix it. I don't think that's your particular case. Tell them to find the problem. Testing on the water is best in my opinion but all the livewells, livewell fittings, and thru hull fittings can be tested out of the water.
Regardless of how you attack it, you definitely need to get it taken care of. Wood is more susceptible to water than glass but glass can also be damaged in certain situations. Water can be wicked between glass mats and cause de-lamination.
Great point. This is especially important for boats that are subjected to freezing temps. The expanding ice has no problem destroying the integrity of the composite. And, once it starts, it can progress rapidly.
gulfcaptain reply :
On 10/4/2015 at 8:23 AM, Golffnutt said:Where are the thru hull fittings located that you guys are referring to that I should check? What kind of silicone should I use to reseal fittings, etc., GE Bathroom found at Lowes?
If you're going to do this, use 3M's 4200 sealant. Take it from someone that works in the marine industry. It costs more but well worth it and ment for the job. It has the same qualities as 5200 sealant, only you can take things back apart. Used it to seal screw holes on sportfishing boats I worked on to keep the water from creeping into the wood, but yet I could remove the screw if needed in the future.
Skeeter Dan reply :
On 10/4/2015 at 7:59 AM, Golffnutt said:Thanks Dan. Please see my comments just above this post to Tom.
Your welcome and that will work. Good luck to you and hope you get to enjoy the boat. Dan
Golffnutt reply :
On 10/4/2015 at 11:33 PM, gulfcaptain said:If you're going to do this, use 3M's 4200 sealant. Take it from someone that works in the marine industry. It costs more but well worth it and ment for the job. It has the same qualities as 5200 sealant, only you can take things back apart. Used it to seal screw holes on sportfishing boats I worked on to keep the water from creeping into the wood, but yet I could remove the screw if needed in the future.
Thanks Captain Fishstick. Where can I buy this stuff or should I just let me marine dealer do this? Thanks.
Snakehead Whisperer reply :
On 10/5/2015 at 7:38 AM, Golffnutt said:Thanks Captain Fishstick. Where can I buy this stuff or should I just let me marine dealer do this? Thanks.
You can get it at any marine supplier, it's a staple product. They stock it at my local Home Depot and WalMart, but your mileage may vary.
Golffnutt reply :
Thank you Snake head Whisperer for that info.
Rick
gulfcaptain reply :
Home Depot or Lowes even should have it. Look and see if the 4200 is slow cure or fast cure. Now fast cure isn't fast, I believe it has a 24 till its cured as where the slow cure is a bit longer. Both clean up with Paint thinner or mineral spirits. If they don't have it order it online from a marine supplier.
Golffnutt reply :
Thanks for the info GulfCaptain. Have a good one.
WRB reply :
The only difference between 3 M4200 and 5200 is strength, 5200 is stronger, both elastic elastic when cured.
Both are available in fast or standard cure and both cure underwater. I use the 5200 because it's navy approved and I have access to it, the 4200 is less expensive and easier to find, both will work for through hull fittings.
Good luck with the repairs, would be nice to know the exact leak path before making repairs.
Tom
bassinhole reply :
On 10/5/2015 at 7:38 AM, Golffnutt said:Thanks Captain Fishstick. Where can I buy this stuff or should I just let me marine dealer do this? Thanks.
http://www.amazon.com/3M-Marine-4200-Adhesive-Sealant/dp/B003XPF8BU
Fishing Rhino reply :
Just in case you missed it. 4200 is available in black or white in the URL above. Click on the right thumbnail to select white.
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